http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Special:Contributions/Rich From InterceptRadio.com Wiki en MediaWiki 1.15.1 Fri, 17 Apr 2026 12:09:04 GMT http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/W7KI_Manpack_Radio <p>Rich:&#32;/* The Battery */</p> <hr /> <div>[[File:FT857_and_tuner_in_pack.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;This article details how I set up a HF/VHF/UHF manpack radio.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> ==Overview==<br /> ===Design goals===<br /> Radio RF Output:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Minimum of 20W, preferable to have optional 50W+ available if needed<br /> Radio Frequency coverage:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : HF, 6 meters, 2 meters, and 70cm<br /> Radio Modes:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : FM/SSB/CW/PSK<br /> Radio receive current:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : preferably less than 700mA<br /> Tuner:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : 10-500ohm minimum, preferable little to no idle current<br /> Battery:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : sufficient to handle a weekend without recharging<br /> Power:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Battery, AC, or solar&lt;br&gt;<br /> Antenna:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Vertical or dipole with optional voltage balun<br /> PC:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Small netbook capable of digital modes<br /> Size:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Everything fits within a pack suitable for airplane carry-on (21x14x10&quot;).<br /> All items:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Weight as minimal as possible !<br /> Cost:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : $2500 neighborhood<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Radio===<br /> Here is a quick rundown of the radios I considered:&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Military radios==== <br /> : I looked at the PRC-104, PRC-132, PRC-138, PRC-320, PRC-1099, PRC-2000, and AEG SE-6861.<br /> : All of them are good radios. Only problem is I want HF/6/2/440 so I'm stuck<br /> : with looking at amateur radios.<br /> <br /> ====Lab599 TX-500====<br /> : New 2020 !<br /> : Modern 10W HF/50mhz all mode portable transceiver with a rugged aluminum case.<br /> : Made in Russia. Worth checking out. Current price $790.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC-705====<br /> : New 2020 !<br /> : 10W HF/6/2/440 all mode portable SDR transceiver with a touchscreen display.<br /> : Matching pack and radio-specific ATU available.<br /> : If I had to re-do this project today this radio would be under serious consideration despite being 10W.<br /> : Current price $1300.<br /> <br /> ====Vertex VX-1210====<br /> : This is a commercial radio ($1400+, 7.1lb w/batt, rx: 500mA, tx: 3A/5W, 5A/20W)<br /> : Very tempting but is HF only. Has option for internal autotuner and can be<br /> : set up for VFO operation. Battery is 14.4v 4AH.<br /> <br /> ====Mobat Micom 3 Pathfinder====<br /> : This is a 25W commercial radio. Excessive cost for this project. Otherwise a great radio !<br /> <br /> ====Outback radios (QMAC, Barrett, Codan)====<br /> : QMAC HF90 excessive cost &amp; no longer made, Barrett 940 too heavy (18.5lbs w/tuner battery)<br /> : Barrett 2040, Codan 2110 excessive cost.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-817ND====<br /> : Portable amateur radio ($600, 2.6lb, 8-16v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 2A/5W)<br /> : Tempting, and would pair nicely with the LDG Z-817 or Elecraft T1 tuner.<br /> : Only problem is I want 20W+. This could be accomplished with a Tokyo High Power HL-45B<br /> : amp ($400, 3.4 lbs, 8.5A/45W, 160-6m) + LDG Z-817H tuner.<br /> : This is a viable combination and has the benefit of low RX current.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC703+====<br /> : Amateur radio (discontinued, 4.4lb, 9-15.8v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 3A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Nice radio, big and easily readable display, built in autotuner. Wish it did 2m/440<br /> : like its bigger brother (IC-706).<br /> <br /> ====Elecraft KX3====<br /> : Portable amateur radio (new to market, 1.5lb, 8-14v(?), rx: 150-???mA, tx: ?A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Great display and control layout located on what would normally be considered the &quot;top&quot;<br /> : of the radio which gives ample room compared to other radios. Built in autotuner. CW paddles<br /> : right on front of the radio. I would have liked to see a little more than 10W however its<br /> : certainly a reasonable and usable amount of power (and better than 5W). Has option for <br /> : an external KXPA100 100W amp and KXAT100 tuner. Overall it is an exciting product and I <br /> : probably would have bought one if I wasn't looking to have 2m/440 in the same radio.<br /> : I don't know if it supports CTCSS for 10m FM repeaters and CTCSS/DCS for 6m FM repeaters.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC706MK2G====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 5.5lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1800-2000mA, tx: 20A/100W)<br /> : RX current way too high, VHF frontend easily overloads. Nice display as with the IC703<br /> : above. The RX current is a deal breaker for battery ops. <br /> <br /> ====Icom IC7000====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($1200, 5.1lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1300-1600mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : Nice radio. RX current better than IC706 but still a little on the high side for battery ops.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-897D====<br /> : Mobile/portable amateur radio ($900, 8.6lb, 11.7-15.9v, rx: 600-1000mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : HF/50 MHz:5 watts = 4.0-4.7 amps 10 watts = 5.3-6.4 amps 25 watts = 7.3-9.2 amps 50 watts = 10.6-12.9 amps<br /> : 144 MHz: 5 watts = 3.4 amps 10 watts = 4.2 amps 25 watts = 6.3 amps 50 watts = 9.4 amps<br /> : 420 MHz: 5 watts = 4.2 amps 10 watts = 5.6 amps 20 watts = 8.7 amps<br /> :<br /> : Designed for field ops and has room for internal batteries (13.2v, 9AH) however the batteries<br /> : add an additional 6.5lbs to a radio which is already heavy at 8.6lbs. One option is to run your<br /> : own external battery which gives you room to install an internal 120V power supply. Overall<br /> : I really like this radio but its ruggedness will cost you in weight. You can get the FT-857D<br /> : (sacrificing the 897's rugged case and internal battery space) and save 4lbs on your back.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-857D====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 4.6lb, 12.4-15.2v,<br /> : rx: 600-1000mA (spec) 650-700mA (green/red backlight) 590mA (backlight off)<br /> : tx: 2A/5W 5A/15W 22A/100W)<br /> : Unlike the FT-897D above, this radio does not come with a TCXO. By the time you spend $100 on<br /> : the TCXO you end up with about the same radio as the FT-897D for the same price. Comparing the<br /> : FT-857D to the FT-897D has some pluses: 4lbs lighter, detachable head, and easier to mount mobile.<br /> : The minuses are we don't get the rugged case and battery space. I don't think either of these<br /> : minuses will matter as the radio and batteries will end up in a pack. One other thing to note is<br /> : both the 857 and 897 will automatically limit the radio to 20W when running on battery power<br /> : (by grounding the brown wire on the power connector).<br /> : Spec says voltage is 12.4-15.2, manual says 11.73-15.87.<br /> : The 857's signal will start sounding bad at about 11.75v.<br /> <br /> Given everything above it came down to deciding between the FT-857D and FT-897D.&lt;br&gt;<br /> I chose the FT-857D because its 4lbs lighter than the FT-897D. Every pound counts when backpacking !&lt;br&gt;<br /> The radio is best equipped with: tcxo-9, keypad mic, (2) W4RT/inrad.net filters.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Tuner===<br /> For honorable mention we have the long-discontinued Kenwood AT-130 which is a very small 80-10m(+WARC)&lt;br&gt;<br /> manual tuner (6 x 2.4 x 6.3 inches, 3.5 lbs.). For field ops I prefer a small autotuner. Yaesu makes the&lt;br&gt;<br /> FC-30 ($170, 17-150 ohms, 3.1 x 1.8 x 10.2 in, 2.2 lbs) however its 17-150 ohm tuning range is quite&lt;br&gt;<br /> narrow compared to the LDG product line.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the breakdown of the LDG products I looked at. All of them have latching relays.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> : $200 LDG YT-100 for 857/897 100w 4-800 ohm 7 x 7 x 2 1.5lbs<br /> : $200 LDG AT-897+ for 857/897 100w 6-800 ohm 11.5 x 3.25 x 1.5 2.0lbs<br /> : $160 Z100+ ? 125w 6-800 ohm 5.5 x 5.5 x 1.5 1 lb w/o batts<br /> : $170 Z11pro2 6-1000 ohm 7.7 x 5.0 x 1.5 1.5lb w/o batts<br /> &lt;br&gt; <br /> I ended up going with the Z11pro2 as it can autotune based on RF sense which keeps the CAT and ACC ports free. This is good because we&lt;br&gt;<br /> need both ports for our data interface. Another bonus of RF sense tuning is it makes the radio PC-ALE capable provided the antenna is&lt;br&gt;<br /> tunable on whatever ALE frequencies are to be used.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device on the left is the data/soundcard interface&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[File:FT857_and_tuner.jpg]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Battery===<br /> 2025 Update: Go buy a Bioenno Power 12v 20Ah battery pack. It weighs 5 pounds 1 ounce. The original pack I built (described below) was 16Ah and weighed 5 pounds 0 ounces.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The following text describes how to build a battery pack. If you do not want to build this battery pack then you can buy one already built. For example you can look up &quot;ZIPPY Flightmax 8400mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack&quot; which currently sells for about $75. You will need to find a suitable charger for it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> I initially considered using 11 Accupower NiMH low-discharge &quot;D&quot; cells (10aH, 1.25v, 145g ea.)&lt;br&gt;<br /> This would give us 13.75v, 10aH at 3.5lb for about $110.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After more research I went with (8) 40160S LiFePO4 batteries (16AH/ea). This project really only needs 4 of these<br /> batteries however I opted to build two battery packs. 4 of these batteries in series gives you around 13 volts.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The 40160S 16AH battery is no longer being sold. The manufacturer has replaced it with the 40152S 15AH battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Paired with each battery pack is a circuit which protects from overcharge/overdischarge/overcurrent. It also keeps the batteries balanced<br /> while charging. After a long search for a suitable lightweight container I found the 4-battery pack fits perfectly into a &quot;Huggies&quot;<br /> baby wipe plastic box. I cut a small slot in the box for a short piece of velcro which holds the lid closed. The complete pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If you intend on taking your backpack radio on a commercial aircraft, keep in mind there are restrictions on high capacity lithium ion batteries. If you believe this will be a problem you can build a pack from 11 NiMH D cells or use a pre-made NiMH RC pack. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Notice the top door works great for the powerpole.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is a view of the internals. The protection circuit board is on the top.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The AC adapter/charger===<br /> I wanted enough beef for the radio to do 20W off the adapter. I ended up getting IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter<br /> for about $14 off ebay. It is relatively small and weighs 0.4 lb. I run it through a bridge rectifier which reduces the voltage to 14.8V which is suitable for operating the radio and charging the battery pack. Of course running DC through a bridge rectifier only uses two of the four diodes however it was an inexpensive solution which is much easier than standalone diodes to mount to the cable/fuse.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I found that the battery pack can draw up to 8A during charging so I used a 10A fuse on the power supply. Yes, I know the power supply is only rated at 7.5A and putting a 10A fuse on it is not good practice. So far it hasn't been a problem. During charging the bridge rectifier can get quite hot so make sure it is on a non-flammable surface. The obvious solution to all this would be a series current limiting resistor which is something I'll look into when I get the time.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> For now I am charging the battery pack with a small smart charger (Noco Genius G3500) which is set for a standard 12V battery at a 3.5A charge rate. It just so happens that its output voltage on this setting is just right for charging the LiFePO4 battery. The Noco Genius is a handy little charger as it is also good for charging and topping off car batteries, AGM batteries, 12V 7AH brick batteries, etc. and it will float the batteries without overcharging them. Another nice thing about this charger is its small enough to fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ac_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Solar Panel===<br /> PowerFilm F15-1200 20W (10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6&quot; 1 lb )&lt;br&gt;<br /> Nice compact and light panel but a little pricey at $10/watt. I would have gone with their 30W panel but it was even more overpriced.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the solar panel<br /> [[File:W7ki_solar_panel.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Computer===<br /> EEEPC 1000h. Small battery-efficient netbook with 10&quot; screen. Used it because I had it on hand. Any netbook would probably do ok so<br /> long as it has mic/headphone jacks. One bonus of this particular computer is you can feed it 12VDC direct.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the computer<br /> [[File:W7ki_netbook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Data Interface===<br /> Homemade. Nothing fancy, just some audio isolation transformers, a level converter, and a PTT transistor.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The data interface and the tuner are attached to the mobile mounting bracket with velcro. Note how the mobile bracket is angled such that the front of the tuner is slightly elevated. This was done to give some clearance to the radio speaker and also helps to direct the audio out of the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_data_interface1.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Antenna===<br /> I looked at a variety of compact antennas (Outbacker Joey, Outbacker Stealth Plus, ATX-W38 walkabout, ATX-DHP, and a handful<br /> of others). It was difficult to find anything that would collapse to under 18 inches (requirement for the pack I'm using). It was probably just as well<br /> since many &quot;portable&quot; antennas are helical which I personally despise.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My original intent was to buy a &quot;Buddi&quot; product and evaluate how it worked in a vertical configuration. The only issue was whether their 80 meter coil would fit in the pack. I emailed them multiple times asking the dimensions of the coil but unfortunately all of my emails were ignored. This probably speaks volumes as to how they handle issues after a sale so I thought it best not to do business with them until their customer communication improves.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Of all the pre-made antennas I found two that appear to be worthwhile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One is the SuperAntenna MP1B SuperStick which is a good solution as it collapses to 12 inches and weighs under 2 pounds. When I first wrote this article their company had no products available which I believe was due to a transition in ownership. Their products are now available again and I plan on trying one out. I would buy the MP1B antenna, TM1 mount, and optionally MC60 coil for 60 meters and MC80 coil for 80 meters. A properly adjusted SuperAntenna requires no tuner however you need to use a correct length ground radial. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In June 2015 SuperAntenna released the MP1R SuperStick with a flexible whip.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As of 2017 SuperAntenna has the MP1DXMAX which appears to be a viable solution.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The other is the JPC-7 product line which can be found at http://www.108mhz.com/ham-antenna-c-59.html or on ebay. All three versions of the JPC-7 are lightweight and collapse to a small size.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you choose not to purchase a pre-made antenna, the text past this point describes an antenna/coil that you can build.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I ended up using a military AT271-A/PRC antenna. It is a 7 section antenna with a 3/8-24 base that extends to 113.5 inches and collapses to 17 inches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> It has an optional 8 inch spring (AB-129/PR) which I am not currently using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:At271a.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As an alternative I found an 8.5' collapsible aluminum pole made for measuring snowpacks and after some tinkering it worked like a charm. There is a threaded version which may work better (listed at the end of this article in the Parts Sources section).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pole_antenna.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Either of these antennas is very usable on HF when paired with a couple of 18&quot; aluminum extender rods and a large tapped coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_big_coil.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> Obviously running a huge coil with a short antenna is about as worthless as a short helical so its important to remember to use as much whip or longwire as you can if you<br /> are less than 1/4 wave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a horizontal option I built a tapped voltage balun which attaches to a vertical extension arm and connects to two spools of wire.<br /> [[File:W7ki_horiz_setup.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;The wire spools can also be used as a counterpoise for vertical configurations.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the bottom is a carbon fiber camera monopod which we use as a vertical extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the top is a carpal tunnel wrist strap which is used for attaching the monopod extension arm to the pack aluminum extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is wound on Coleman camping clothesline spools.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Another HF antenna option is to build the St. Louis Vertical: http://www.amqrp.org/projects/stluisvert/STLV%20Project.html&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For VHF/UHF I have a 17&quot; dual-band antenna. For VHF only you can also put one of the 18&quot; aluminum rods onto the 1&quot; antenna mount.&lt;br&gt;<br /> 6 meters can be done with the 17&quot; antenna on top of both 18&quot; rods.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Pack===<br /> I looked at dozens of packs before settling on the Jansport Driver 8. Most other packs were either oversized and/or too heavy.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My reasoning for a 21x14x10&quot; size limit is so you can carry this on a commercial airplane if you are traveling. You certainly wouldn't want<br /> to check this as luggage as it would probably get destroyed by handling or stolen.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Two main things I liked about the Driver 8 are the wheels and the telescoping arm. The telescoping arm is wonderful because it is very sturdy<br /> aluminum which allows you to securely attach an antenna to it. This is great for manpack operations if you want the antenna up while you are<br /> walking around with the pack on your back. It also works great for fixed operations as the pack itself can be used as an antenna base.<br /> The wheels not only give your back a break where smooth surfaces are available, they also give you the ability to easily lay down the pack when assembling a long antenna. Its like having a mini fold over tower.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The wheels are inline skate wheels and have a very low ground clearance. It will roll fine inside buildings or on a paved sidewalk. The wheels will not work on a trail. This is unfortunate as it is much easier to pull 35 lbs on wheels than to heft it on your back. One possible solution to this is to run a 1/2 inch rod (or thread stock?) along the bottom of the pack and install a pair of 10&quot; x 1.75 lightweight plastic wheels. I would use Martin Wheel part number 110 wheels because they come with metal ball bearings.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:w7ki_pack_radio.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Construction and Setup==<br /> A complete materials and sources list is at the end of this article.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Extension Rods and Antenna===<br /> To make the aluminum extension rods you need a 3 foot piece of aluminum rod. Cut the rod into 3 pieces, 2 of them will be 17 inches long and the third piece will be the remaining 2 inches.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take a 21/64 inch drill bit and drill about 1.5 inches into both ends of the 17 inch rods. Be careful to drill straight. Once this is done tap threads into both ends with a 3/8-24 tap. Tapping threads into aluminum generates a tremendous amount of heat so remember to tap slowly and use an oil lubricant. Right after tapping these rods I bumped one of them with my arm and got a very nasty burn.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the tapping is done thread a 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud into both ends of the rods. Then, for each rod, put a 3/8-24 jam nut over the stud on one end and put a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut over the stud on the other end. When you are done it should look like the picture below.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> This section deals with constructing the antenna if you chose not to buy an AT-271 antenna:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now grab the remaining 2 inch piece of aluminum rod. Drill one end 1 inch deep with a size F (.2443 inch) bit then drill the other end 1 inch deep with the 21/64 inch drill bit you used for the other rods. Tap 5/16-18 threads into the size F end and 3/8-24 threads into the 21/64 end.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take the aluminum snowpack pole, remove the lanyard string, push in the lower release spring button and shove it up the tube a couple inches, and tap the bottom for 5/16-18 threads. The two photos below show the start and finish of tapping the threads. I seriously do not recommend using vise-grips as shown in the photos. The antenna deforms very easily. It would be much better to lightly use a vise which can distribute the grip better with much less crush force. Again, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CRUSH OR DEFORM THE TUBE. I darn near destroyed the prototype using vise-grips.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Next we take a 1.5 inch 5/16-18 stud and thread half of it into the antenna. This is generally difficult to do so I recommend tightening two 5/16-18 nuts against each other onto the stud and use the outer nut with a wrench. Once the stud is threaded into the antenna you can thread the 2 inch aluminum rod onto the stud, then thread a 3/8-24 stud into the other end of the rod. Put a 3/8-24 jam nut onto the exposed threads. What you have done here is built a 5/16-18 to 3/8-24 thread adapter. The photo below shows what the finished product should look like.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rod_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The next step is to modify the antenna to make it conductive. The anodized surfaces do not conduct electricity so you need to take some sandpaper and sand out the inside of the bottom of each rod (about 3/4 inch should do). Another issue is the tapered inserts which are crimped into the top of the rods. These don't conduct either so you need to lightly bond them with an arc weld. This should be done with a MIG or TIG welder. Remember to sand the surfaces first, including the entire tapered section. I cheesed mine by using two truck batteries, a pair of jumper cables, and some real thin aluminum wire. Some people refer to this as hillbilly arc welding. Please don't do this unless you know the risks, know what you are doing, and you are using appropriate eye protection. Verify the end to end continuity of the antenna with an ohmmeter when you are done. Here is what mine looked like when it was done.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_hillbilly_weld.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The final step is to flatten out the pointed tip of the antenna rod. You can do this with a grinder or file.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Coil===<br /> The coil is made from a 7 3/4 inch piece of 4 inch diameter drainpipe with a drainpipe cap on each end. To make room for more coil turns we cut 1 3/8 inch off the end of the drainpipe cap. You need to cut two end caps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Locate the center of each cap, tap the center with a center punch or nail, drill a 1/8&quot; pilot hole, then drill in again with a 3/8&quot; bit.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now we take a piece of 1/4 inch schedule 80 pvc pipe and drill/tap it for 3/8-24 threads the same way you did the aluminum rods (except please don't use lubricating oil). Its important to use schedule 80 pipe as it has the correct inside diameter for tapping threads. The pipe should be about 7 1/2 inches long and later you might have to make some slight length adjustments for fit. Once your threads are tapped you can thread a 1.5 inch 3/8-24 stud into each end then put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer over the end (see photo below). Put one end into an end cap, put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer on the outside of the end cap, stack one 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal on top of the washer, and secure it with a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut stacked on top of the ring terminal.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Put the other end cap on. On the outside stack a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer, a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal, and a 3/8-24 jam nut.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to cover up any holes in the drainpipe with a square of duct tape.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To make the coil, glue 4 pieces of .065 Nylon Edge Trim as shown in the photo (credit to Phil AD5X for finding this edge trim). When cutting them to length, remember to offset each one to correctly accommodate a spirally-wound coil. Once this is done, drill a .065&quot; diagonal hole from the edge of the cap through the top of each cap (see photo), thread the wire through the hole and wind the coil with .064&quot; (14AWG) tin coated copper wire. Remember to keep tension on the coil or else it will wind loosely. The wire is stiff and doesn't come off the coil perfectly so there will be some manual coil alignment/straightening to do after the coil is wound. Once the coil is wound, put the ends thorough the 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminals, then cut &amp; solder. Be careful of heat damage to the plastic while soldering. Its usually best to loosen the end nuts prior to soldering as it will conduct less heat away from the ring terminals.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_end.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The coil tap is an EZ-Hook XM attached to a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal with an 11 inch piece of 22-gauge 7-strand insulated hookup wire. Attach the ring terminal above the coil ring terminal as shown in the photo.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_tap.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The EZ-Hook XM works great for 17AWG wire however its a little small for our 14AWG coil. The hook can be slightly adjusted with needlenose pliers to fit the 14AWG wire. The picture below shows the modified hook profile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ezhook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As built, the coil specs out like this: 7&quot; length, 4.25&quot; dia, 50 turns, 14ga .063 (spaced) = 129uH&lt;br&gt;<br /> Its a little overkill on the size &amp; inductance but it gives a lot of flexibility with short antennas.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Balun===<br /> The balun is based on a design by WB6ZQZ. His design appears to be a bifilar current balun in series with a quadrifilar voltage balun. We are only interested in the quadrifilar transformer because we will be using an external ferrite choke on the feedline (which allows us to use the choke for antenna configurations that don't use the voltage balun). Here is a link to instructions on how to wind the quadrifilar transformer:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> http://www.antennalaunchers.com/trb/photos.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Use 16ga enameled wire and a F-125-K toroid. Once the transformer is wound you can mount it on a small piece of plastic with holes drilled for the wires. Attach the wires to each other as per his schematic diagram and PC board photos.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mount the completed toroid into a 3x2x1 inch Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box. Install an SO-239 connector into the bottom of the box. For terminals I used (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts/nuts/wingnuts which are available at a home-improvement store. Label the terminals for Common, 50, 25, and 12 ohms. Attach a short piece of velcro to the back side which allows for mounting.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Antenna Mount &amp; Wire Spools===<br /> The antenna mount uses 1/4-20 hardware. I recommend replacing two of the nuts with wingnuts. Cut an 11 foot piece of Belden 8219 RG58A/U and loop it twice through two Laird LFB187102 ferrites as shown in the photo below. The coax fits tightly and we do not want to stretch it while pulling it through the ferrites so use a non-petroleum lubricant (I used cooking spray). Once this is done you can put UG-175/U reducers on the cable and solder a PL259 connector on each end.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_choke.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is spooled on a (2) Coleman 827E140T colthesline reels (thanks to Richard WA6KYR for finding these). Each Coleman reel comes with 21 feet of nylon cord. Pull all the cord out and cut off 13 feet so there is 8 feet remaining on the spool. Attach 59 1/2 feet of 22AWG insulated hookup wire to the end of the nylon cord. You can do this by stripping the end of the wire and pushing it through the middle of the nylon cord about 1/2 inch from the end, then secure the end of the nylon cord by lightly melting it with a lighter or soldering iron. Now you can reel in the wire. If it gets stuck you can open the reel with a 1/3 turn of the enclosure shell. Attach a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal to the end of the wire.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you are wondering why we use 59 1/2 feet it is because its the only length available that is reasonably close for loading at 75-80m and is not an even 1/2-wavelength multiple of any amateur band from 6m-40m (in fact we can go +/- 3 feet before bumping into one of these multiples. You should be able to roll this out to full length and tune any amateur band from 80m-6m. It also makes a good antenna to use with ALE and our RF-sensing tuner.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Battery===<br /> Each battery pack is made of (4) 40160S LiFePO4 cells (3.2V 16Ah) with a battery management circuit put into a Huggies wipe box.<br /> The battery management circuit sits on top of a plastic board which is an Akro-Mils 40150 (3.3 x 7.7 x 0.1 inch). Mount the batteries in the plastic holders, wire them in series with the bus bars, mount the battery management circuit, then wire it in. I recommend using a 30 amp fuse as pictured. Once this is done attach a 30A (12-14AWG) Powerpole connector with 12-gauge wire. The battery management circuit will charge the battery up to 14.2v before it automatically cuts off. The charger should be at least 14.6v.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each 40160S cell is rated at 3.65V (Max Charge), 3.2V (Nominal), and 2.0V (Discharge cut off).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Max charge current is 5C (80A) and max discharge current is 10C (160A).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cell life is rated at 2000 charge/discharge cycles under normal use.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Update November 2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Update November 2023: While this article is still a good read for building your own pack, it is probably easier to buy a Bioenno Power BLF-1215A LiFePO4 pack (15Ah / 4.5 lbs). Current price is $210.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete battery pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Data Interface===<br /> The data interface consists of audio isolation transformers, an RS232 level converter, and a PTT transistor. The audio circuit is per the &quot;KK7UQ Interface Model II&quot; circuit although I chose not to use the potentiometers and solid state relay in the original design. The original design and documentation can be found here:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://kk7uq.com/html/download/Manual2E.pdf<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The RS232 level converter is per a circuit attributed to OE1RIB.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I decided not to go with the Yaseu CT62 cable because I wanted the ability to use the DTR line for PTT (which is much cleaner for automated CW than keying with serial commands). Don't get me wrong here, I prefer a key, however flexibility was one of the design goals. I modified the level converter circuit to take power from the radio rather than trying to rob it from DTR/CTS with diodes. There is also a DPDT toggle switch on the back of the data interface which is an &quot;OFF&quot; switch (cuts the power from the radio and cuts the PTT line). I looked at off-the-shelf interfaces and most of them were either too big or required power for the audio circuitry.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Use a USB-serial converter if your computer doesn't have a serial port. I recommend using converters with the FTDI chipset for best performance and OS compatibility (I used USBG-RS232-F12 from usbgear.com).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the actual circuit I used to build the data interface:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to leave clearance for the jacks and switches when laying out the components on the PC board.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Velcro attachment<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Mounted to radio<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To connect the interface box to the radio I used a short piece of cat5 network cable wired like this&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT RD W-Br&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT TD W-G&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT + Br-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT GND G-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Data Out12 O-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data In W-Bl&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data PTT W-O&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data GND Bl-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The mini-din connectors go in very tight so beware of non-functioning or partial connections when you do this. Once you get them seated properly they work great and stay in place. Make sure to notch the back of the connector sleeves so the cables can exit at 90 degrees. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In the above photo you will also notice a connector/adapter contraption covered with electrical tape. These UHF right-angle adapters were used because the radio rests on its back side in the pack and we don't want the weight of the radio sitting on a PL259 connector and pinching the coax. All UHF right-angle adapters are not created equal. Most of them are garbage and use a small internal spring to connect the center conductor. The correct part to use is Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U. The adapter connecting the radio to the tuner is two of the Amphenol right-angle adapters connected with a short piece of LMR-600 with the center conductor diameter ground down from 0.176&quot; to 0.157&quot;. The length of the LMR600 and the mounting position of the tuner are critical because you don't want to obstruct the ports on the rear of the radio. As you can see in the photo below, this arrangement makes the back of the radio very compact which helps it fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_back.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Power Wiring===<br /> On the power supply you can add a third powerpole connector which is jumped to ground. When the third connector is also done on the radio side (connected to the radio brown wire) it forces the radio to 20W when plugged into the supply. This is good because our power supply is only rated for 7.5 amps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The power cable is 24 inches of 12-gauge red/black zipcord with a third wire for sensing low-power mode. Additionally it has a 16 inch length of zipcord for the tuner with a 2.5x5.5mm right-angle connector. As with the OEM cable, the 12-gauge cable splits off into two 14-gauge cables at the connector. You will notice that there are no fuses on this cable. I didn't bother because all my power sources for the pack are fused. In hindsight it would be prudent to put 30A fuses on both the positive and negative wires.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Third Powerpole connector for low power sense.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Connector end detail<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Monopod===<br /> The monopod is used to elevate the feedpoint of the dipole or a short vertical antenna. It is carbon fiber, weighs only 19oz, and extends to 68&quot;.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The monopod needs to be shortened to fit into the pack. Going around the perimeter of the small end rod, cut off the bottom half of the top rubber cap. This will allow the rod to collapse about an additional 1/2 inch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The bottom cap can be removed by pushing in the two roll pins with a small center punch. Then, with the rod fully collapsed, you will see there is about 13/16 inch you can saw off the big end without hitting the smaller rods that collapse inside of it. The photo below shows it after the cut.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Radio setup===<br /> Here is how I set mine up&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 7.000mhz<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to on.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 19&quot; (CAT Rate). Set it to 9600.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 29&quot; (CW Sidetone). Set it to 5.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 38&quot; (Dig Mode). Set it to PSK31-U.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 59&quot; (Mic Sel). Set it to RMT if you are using the MH-59A8J mic.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 86&quot; (TX IF Filter). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 2.3<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 50.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 144.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 20.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 446.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 10.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Enable 2.3kc filter for TX:<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push FUNC, rotate select to N, press 2.3 (above B key)<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ==Usage==<br /> The most basic setup is pulling the aluminum pack handle up one notch and attaching the mount/antenna. This can be used for a quick base setup or walking around with the pack on your back. The photo below shows the mount and 2m/70cm whip installed. If you want a somewhat useful counterpoise for 6m/2m/70cm without attaching the counterpoise wire, simply invert the feedline such that the chokes are by the radio instead of by the antenna. This way you can use the coax itself for a counterpoise. Its certainly not the best way to do it but it will work.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each aluminum rod is 18&quot; and you can use one of them by itself for a 2m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rods2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you use both rods with the 2m/70cm whip on top you will have a 6m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> You can use the monopod to elevate the a 6m/2m/70cm antenna. We use the carpal tunnel wrist strap to attach the monopod to the packs aluminum handle. The next photo looks like the leaning tower of Pisa because my first prototype was done with a medium-sized wrist strap. I have since moved to a small-sized strap which makes it stand much straighter. The monopod is good for 6m/2m/70cm verticals and for holding the feedpoint of a dipole. Do not use the monopod with the 8-foot antenna rod and/or the large loading coil as it gets too top heavy to remain stable. The following photo shows the ground radials installed and the choke ferrite near the antenna feedpoint. For a simpler setup you can skip the ground radials and invert the feedline (so the choke ferrites are near the radio) which will make the feedline act as a counterpoise. Yes I know this was said earlier in the article but its worth repeating.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_8.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Detail of antenna mount attached to the monopod pole<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_9.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The collapsible antenna by itself will work as a quarter-wave on 10m (pictured below) and should also tune up ok on 12m. It will work as a quarter-wave on 15m if you add the two aluminum extension rods.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Attaching the coil (tapped on the lowest turn) to the antenna base with the two aluminum rods above it will tune down to 80m. This configuration will have near zero efficiency however it will allow short-range communication on 75/80m while walking around with the pack on your back.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The best vertical configuration for 80m thru 17m is attaching the two rods to the base, putting the coil on top of the rods, then putting the collapsible aluminum antenna rod on top. It is best to tilt the pack over on its wheels and assemble the antenna on the ground.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once its assembled, tilt it up by lifting the aluminum arm on the pack. The weight of the batteries do a good job of keeping the antenna in place.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you want to try 160 meters you can remove the 8 foot whip and connect one of the 59-foot wire spools to the top of the coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a dipole configuration you can strap the balun to the top of the monopod and connect our spools of wire to it. Dipoles work best when they are at least 1/4 wave above the ground. Our feedpoint impedance will typically be much less than 50 ohms because in most cases we will be less than 1/4 wave off the ground. This will be especially noticeable on 40m/80m. Attach one wire to the &quot;C&quot; (common) balun terminal and attach the other wire to either the 12, 25, or 50 ohm terminal depending on which one works best. The wire spools use 3/8 ring terminals so we can optionally connect them directly to the vertical antenna mount if you want to feed a dipole directly without the balun.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One other important thing to note about dipoles is its best to keep the ends up off the ground. There is 8 feet of nylon rope at the end of the spools which can help in getting your wire somewhere it can be secured. In my pack I also keep short plastic tent stakes and short bungee cords which can help in some situations.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_10.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> There are a few other odds &amp; ends I keep in the pack. The PL-259 center to ring terminal adapter is for using the voltage balun with the vertical antenna. The Powerpole &quot;Y&quot; cable is for running the AC adapter or solar charger while using the radio. The short 3/8-24 bolt is for attaching a dipole wire directly to the antenna mount or to the top of the coil. There are also two 8-foot stereo cables for the data adapter and a 10-foot serial cable (not pictured). (I chose 8-10' cables to keep the computer RF a little ways away from the radio/antenna). At the bottom is the usb/serial adapter and on the bottom right are short velcro cable ties for attaching the feedline to the monopole and/or aluminum pack handle.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_misc.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is how it all fits into the pack<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_11.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete pack with both batteries and the computer weighs 35 lbs.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The weight can be substantially reduced by removing the spare battery, AC adapter, computer (if you don't need it), and any antenna parts you don't plan on using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In case you are wondering where the CW key/paddles are, I'm still working on finding a solution that works well with this portable setup.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Two that have been recommended are the Mini Paddle from Milestone Technologies and the Traveler Light from Begali.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Parts &amp; Prices==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> $799 FT857D w/YSK857<br /> $95 TCXO-9<br /> $82 MH-59A8J DTMF mic (also needed for direct freq entry)<br /> <br /> $120 W4RT2.3khz ssb filter<br /> $169 Z-11pro2<br /> <br /> $14 IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter (ebay)<br /> $2 bridge rectifier KBPC5010 (ebay)<br /> <br /> old: $144 (8) 16ah 40160s lifepo4 $24/ea (bmsbattery.com or manzanitamicro.com)<br /> new: $144 (8) 15ah 40152s lifepo4 $24/ea (evassemble.com)<br /> $3 (8) 40152S or 40160S battery holders 0.40/ea<br /> $4 (8) 40152S or 40160S bus bar connectors 0.50/ea<br /> $80 battery shipping<br /> <br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> <br /> $97 (2) 30A Battery Management PCB http://www.batteryspace.com/pcbprotectioncircuitmodulefor4cells128vlifepo4batterypackat30alimited.aspx<br /> <br /> $11 USB to serial converter http://www.usbgear.com/computer_cable_details.cfm?sku=USBG-RS232-F12&amp;cats=199&amp;catid=482%2C199%2C601%2C461<br /> <br /> $8 3/8X24 Thread Mirror Mount: Wilson 901104<br /> $5 (20') Belden 8219 (RG58A/U) <br /> $3 (4) Amphenol 83-185-RFX (UG-175 reducer)<br /> $20 (4) Amphenol 83-822 (PL259)<br /> $10 shipping (theantennafarm.com)<br /> <br /> $79 Jansport Driver 8 TN89-008 UPC 757969203361 Wheeled Backpack (buy.com)<br /> <br /> $6 dual-band (2/440) whip with 3/8x24 mount (hamstick EDBW-1, Opek DB-1, or Workman DB-1) <br /> $4 (2) WORKKW2000A or CONXPARTSA (this is the power cord and connector pins)<br /> $3 (6 feet) Red &amp; Black DC wire 12 GA<br /> $9 shipping (k1cra.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (3') LMR-600 (showmecables.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 nuts (7/16&quot; head)<br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts<br /> $2 (8) 1/4&quot;-20 wingnuts<br /> $9 (10') 4&quot; drainpipe (we need one 7 3/4&quot; piece)<br /> $4 (2) 4&quot; drainpipe cap (home depot)<br /> <br /> $20 (5) littelfuse FHA30 12AWG inline fuse holder<br /> $3 (1) 5-pack of ATO 7.5 fuse (drillspot.com)<br /> <br /> $3 4' 14 gauge cable (for short part of radio power connector) (.62/ft)<br /> $1 4' 18 gauge cable (for battery sense +/- to pcb, low power wire on power cable) (.31/ft)<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (22-18) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $4 (1) 1/4&quot; (16-14) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (12-10) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $10 shipping (parts-express.com)<br /> <br /> (1) DB9F mouser 156-1309 0.80<br /> (4) BC546A mouser 512-BC546A 0.10<br /> (2) 5.6k 1/4w mouser 588-OD562JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (3) 10k 1/4w mouser 588-OD103JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (1) 3.5mm 3-pin plug (cw) (2 wires used) mouser 568-NYS231BG 1.69 (for cw jack)<br /> (1) 8-pin mini-din (cat) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2608 1.49<br /> (1) 6-pin mini-din (data) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2606 1.36<br /> (2) 600ohm 1:1 transformer mouser 42TL016-RC 1.66<br /> (2) 51 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD510JE 0.42<br /> (1) 1uf cap mouser 5989-100V1.0-F 0.71<br /> (1) .0047uf cap mouser 140-50P5-472K-RC 50v ceramic disc 0.12<br /> (1) 100 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD101JE 0.42 carbon comp 5%<br /> (1) 1k 1/4w mouser 588-OD102JE 0.42<br /> (1) board mouser 854-PR1593K $4.10 2.6 x 2.6<br /> (1) box mouser 546-1593KBK $2.88 (box is 2.6 x 2.6 x 1.1)<br /> (2) 2.2k resistor 1/2w carbon comp 5% mouser 588-OF222JE (1/4w mouser 588-OD222JE 0.42 not avail)<br /> (4) PL259 right angle Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U Mouser 523-83-1AP $14.70/ea<br /> (1) 2.5x5.5mm right angle plug (24AWG) power plug for tuner mouser 171-3216-EX $1.04/ea<br /> (2) ferrites - mouser 875-LFB187102-000 3.03/ea 3/4&quot; OD .400&quot; ID 1.125&quot; long (3 turns RG58 = 1000 ohm impedance @ 1-5mhz)<br /> (2) mouser 526-WH22-00-100 100' 22awg copper 7-strand hookup wire black nteinc.com $19 (use p/n 03-100 for orange) insulation OD 0.060&quot;<br /> (2) 3.5mm stereo jacks 502-35RAPC3BV4 2.73<br /> $112 total<br /> $12 shipping (mouser.com)<br /> <br /> $8 (1) 14-pack 3/8 ring terminal 16-14AWG (JT&amp;T 2011H - amazon.com)<br /> $18 (2) 8ft 3.5mm stereo cables (mediabridge - amazon.com)<br /> $3 21/64 (.3281&quot;) drill bit for 3/8-24 threads (amazon.com)<br /> $28 3' Aluminum 6061-T6 Seamless Round Tubing, WW-T 700/6, 1/2&quot; OD, 1/4&quot; ID, 1/8&quot; Wall, 36&quot; Length (amazon.com)<br /> $65 Opteka CFM300 68&quot; 5 Section 8x Carbon Fiber Monopod (amazon.com)<br /> $209 (1) PowerFilm F15-1200 20W solar panel 10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6 1 lb (amazon.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (4) EZ-Hook XM (digi-key 461-1004-ND)<br /> <br /> $2 Akro-Mils plastic dividers (Akro-Mils 40150 wasserstrom.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (8) 3/8-24 Jam Nuts 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (2) 3/8-24 Hex Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $10 (5) 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (10) 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer 316 Stainless Steel<br /> $7 shipping (fastener-warehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $7 (5') 1/4&quot; schedule 80 PVC pipe (usplastic.com)<br /> <br /> $14 (2) coleman 827E140T colthesline reel (coleman.com)<br /> <br /> $58 AT-271A/PRC antenna (ebay) OR $58 Voile Tourlight Avalanche Probe (8 foot) (voile-usa.com)<br /> Alternatively there are threaded snow probes at: http://us-warehouse.genuineguidegear.com/collections/probes/products/solid-probes<br /> <br /> $2 (2) 6&quot; tent stakes (rei.com)<br /> $2 (1) 4-pack of 10&quot; bungee cords (rei.com)<br /> $8 tax/shipping (rei.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) F-125-K Toroid Core 1.25&quot; 250-300 permeability low loss ferrite 1-30 mhz (theaudioguru.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (1) 1/4 lb Wire, 16ga (0.05&quot;) enameled (we need 4 feet for toroid) (allspectrum.com or jameco.com)<br /> <br /> $20 (1) 79-87283 DonJoy COMFORTFORM WRIST support-Small right (expressorthopedics.com - warning, it takes them a month to ship it)<br /> <br /> $8 Cables To Go 52030 - 6ft DB9 M/F All Lines Extension Cable Black (nextwarehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) 85085K8 25-pack nylon edge trim .065 gap width 3/16 opening, 15/64 height, 12 3/4 long<br /> $23 (1) 8871K71 80' (1 lb) spool .064&quot; (14ga) tin coated copper wire (spool says Arcor 14AWG)<br /> $2 (1) 91187A202 1.5&quot; 5/16-18 RHT stainless stud (or you can order a 10-pack for $4.55 with part number 95412A587)<br /> $10 (2) 95412A659 5-pack of 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud<br /> $9 tax/shipping (mcmaster.com)<br /> <br /> ==========<br /> $2518 approximate cost<br /> <br /> <br /> $? (1) stickyback velcro (attach tuner to radio mount)<br /> <br /> $? (1) velcro wire ties (attach coax to antenna mast)<br /> <br /> $? (1) 3/8-24 tap<br /> $? (1) 5/16-18 tap<br /> $? (1) Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box (for balun) 3x2x1&quot;<br /> <br /> $? (4) 30A (12-14AWG) red/black powerpole connector (1 for radio, 2 for batteries, 1 for AC/DC power supply)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==More Information==<br /> Here are some websites with great ideas for building backpack radios:<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://ec1cw.blogspot.com/2012/12/my-ft-857d-manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/321107979094<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_22/665730_Build_your_own_HF_manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://hfpack.com/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://pinztrek.com/radio/hfpack/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.dbbear.com/k0emt/projant/hfpack/</div> Sat, 26 Jul 2025 18:12:53 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:W7KI_Manpack_Radio http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/W7KI_Manpack_Radio <p>Rich:&#32;/* Battery */</p> <hr /> <div>[[File:FT857_and_tuner_in_pack.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;This article details how I set up a HF/VHF/UHF manpack radio.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> ==Overview==<br /> ===Design goals===<br /> Radio RF Output:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Minimum of 20W, preferable to have optional 50W+ available if needed<br /> Radio Frequency coverage:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : HF, 6 meters, 2 meters, and 70cm<br /> Radio Modes:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : FM/SSB/CW/PSK<br /> Radio receive current:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : preferably less than 700mA<br /> Tuner:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : 10-500ohm minimum, preferable little to no idle current<br /> Battery:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : sufficient to handle a weekend without recharging<br /> Power:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Battery, AC, or solar&lt;br&gt;<br /> Antenna:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Vertical or dipole with optional voltage balun<br /> PC:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Small netbook capable of digital modes<br /> Size:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Everything fits within a pack suitable for airplane carry-on (21x14x10&quot;).<br /> All items:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Weight as minimal as possible !<br /> Cost:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : $2500 neighborhood<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Radio===<br /> Here is a quick rundown of the radios I considered:&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Military radios==== <br /> : I looked at the PRC-104, PRC-132, PRC-138, PRC-320, PRC-1099, PRC-2000, and AEG SE-6861.<br /> : All of them are good radios. Only problem is I want HF/6/2/440 so I'm stuck<br /> : with looking at amateur radios.<br /> <br /> ====Lab599 TX-500====<br /> : New 2020 !<br /> : Modern 10W HF/50mhz all mode portable transceiver with a rugged aluminum case.<br /> : Made in Russia. Worth checking out. Current price $790.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC-705====<br /> : New 2020 !<br /> : 10W HF/6/2/440 all mode portable SDR transceiver with a touchscreen display.<br /> : Matching pack and radio-specific ATU available.<br /> : If I had to re-do this project today this radio would be under serious consideration despite being 10W.<br /> : Current price $1300.<br /> <br /> ====Vertex VX-1210====<br /> : This is a commercial radio ($1400+, 7.1lb w/batt, rx: 500mA, tx: 3A/5W, 5A/20W)<br /> : Very tempting but is HF only. Has option for internal autotuner and can be<br /> : set up for VFO operation. Battery is 14.4v 4AH.<br /> <br /> ====Mobat Micom 3 Pathfinder====<br /> : This is a 25W commercial radio. Excessive cost for this project. Otherwise a great radio !<br /> <br /> ====Outback radios (QMAC, Barrett, Codan)====<br /> : QMAC HF90 excessive cost &amp; no longer made, Barrett 940 too heavy (18.5lbs w/tuner battery)<br /> : Barrett 2040, Codan 2110 excessive cost.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-817ND====<br /> : Portable amateur radio ($600, 2.6lb, 8-16v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 2A/5W)<br /> : Tempting, and would pair nicely with the LDG Z-817 or Elecraft T1 tuner.<br /> : Only problem is I want 20W+. This could be accomplished with a Tokyo High Power HL-45B<br /> : amp ($400, 3.4 lbs, 8.5A/45W, 160-6m) + LDG Z-817H tuner.<br /> : This is a viable combination and has the benefit of low RX current.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC703+====<br /> : Amateur radio (discontinued, 4.4lb, 9-15.8v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 3A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Nice radio, big and easily readable display, built in autotuner. Wish it did 2m/440<br /> : like its bigger brother (IC-706).<br /> <br /> ====Elecraft KX3====<br /> : Portable amateur radio (new to market, 1.5lb, 8-14v(?), rx: 150-???mA, tx: ?A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Great display and control layout located on what would normally be considered the &quot;top&quot;<br /> : of the radio which gives ample room compared to other radios. Built in autotuner. CW paddles<br /> : right on front of the radio. I would have liked to see a little more than 10W however its<br /> : certainly a reasonable and usable amount of power (and better than 5W). Has option for <br /> : an external KXPA100 100W amp and KXAT100 tuner. Overall it is an exciting product and I <br /> : probably would have bought one if I wasn't looking to have 2m/440 in the same radio.<br /> : I don't know if it supports CTCSS for 10m FM repeaters and CTCSS/DCS for 6m FM repeaters.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC706MK2G====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 5.5lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1800-2000mA, tx: 20A/100W)<br /> : RX current way too high, VHF frontend easily overloads. Nice display as with the IC703<br /> : above. The RX current is a deal breaker for battery ops. <br /> <br /> ====Icom IC7000====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($1200, 5.1lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1300-1600mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : Nice radio. RX current better than IC706 but still a little on the high side for battery ops.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-897D====<br /> : Mobile/portable amateur radio ($900, 8.6lb, 11.7-15.9v, rx: 600-1000mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : HF/50 MHz:5 watts = 4.0-4.7 amps 10 watts = 5.3-6.4 amps 25 watts = 7.3-9.2 amps 50 watts = 10.6-12.9 amps<br /> : 144 MHz: 5 watts = 3.4 amps 10 watts = 4.2 amps 25 watts = 6.3 amps 50 watts = 9.4 amps<br /> : 420 MHz: 5 watts = 4.2 amps 10 watts = 5.6 amps 20 watts = 8.7 amps<br /> :<br /> : Designed for field ops and has room for internal batteries (13.2v, 9AH) however the batteries<br /> : add an additional 6.5lbs to a radio which is already heavy at 8.6lbs. One option is to run your<br /> : own external battery which gives you room to install an internal 120V power supply. Overall<br /> : I really like this radio but its ruggedness will cost you in weight. You can get the FT-857D<br /> : (sacrificing the 897's rugged case and internal battery space) and save 4lbs on your back.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-857D====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 4.6lb, 12.4-15.2v,<br /> : rx: 600-1000mA (spec) 650-700mA (green/red backlight) 590mA (backlight off)<br /> : tx: 2A/5W 5A/15W 22A/100W)<br /> : Unlike the FT-897D above, this radio does not come with a TCXO. By the time you spend $100 on<br /> : the TCXO you end up with about the same radio as the FT-897D for the same price. Comparing the<br /> : FT-857D to the FT-897D has some pluses: 4lbs lighter, detachable head, and easier to mount mobile.<br /> : The minuses are we don't get the rugged case and battery space. I don't think either of these<br /> : minuses will matter as the radio and batteries will end up in a pack. One other thing to note is<br /> : both the 857 and 897 will automatically limit the radio to 20W when running on battery power<br /> : (by grounding the brown wire on the power connector).<br /> : Spec says voltage is 12.4-15.2, manual says 11.73-15.87.<br /> : The 857's signal will start sounding bad at about 11.75v.<br /> <br /> Given everything above it came down to deciding between the FT-857D and FT-897D.&lt;br&gt;<br /> I chose the FT-857D because its 4lbs lighter than the FT-897D. Every pound counts when backpacking !&lt;br&gt;<br /> The radio is best equipped with: tcxo-9, keypad mic, (2) W4RT/inrad.net filters.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Tuner===<br /> For honorable mention we have the long-discontinued Kenwood AT-130 which is a very small 80-10m(+WARC)&lt;br&gt;<br /> manual tuner (6 x 2.4 x 6.3 inches, 3.5 lbs.). For field ops I prefer a small autotuner. Yaesu makes the&lt;br&gt;<br /> FC-30 ($170, 17-150 ohms, 3.1 x 1.8 x 10.2 in, 2.2 lbs) however its 17-150 ohm tuning range is quite&lt;br&gt;<br /> narrow compared to the LDG product line.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the breakdown of the LDG products I looked at. All of them have latching relays.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> : $200 LDG YT-100 for 857/897 100w 4-800 ohm 7 x 7 x 2 1.5lbs<br /> : $200 LDG AT-897+ for 857/897 100w 6-800 ohm 11.5 x 3.25 x 1.5 2.0lbs<br /> : $160 Z100+ ? 125w 6-800 ohm 5.5 x 5.5 x 1.5 1 lb w/o batts<br /> : $170 Z11pro2 6-1000 ohm 7.7 x 5.0 x 1.5 1.5lb w/o batts<br /> &lt;br&gt; <br /> I ended up going with the Z11pro2 as it can autotune based on RF sense which keeps the CAT and ACC ports free. This is good because we&lt;br&gt;<br /> need both ports for our data interface. Another bonus of RF sense tuning is it makes the radio PC-ALE capable provided the antenna is&lt;br&gt;<br /> tunable on whatever ALE frequencies are to be used.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device on the left is the data/soundcard interface&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[File:FT857_and_tuner.jpg]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Battery===<br /> The following text describes how to build a battery pack. If you do not want to build this battery pack then you can buy one already built. For example you can look up &quot;ZIPPY Flightmax 8400mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack&quot; which currently sells for about $75. You will need to find a suitable charger for it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> I initially considered using 11 Accupower NiMH low-discharge &quot;D&quot; cells (10aH, 1.25v, 145g ea.)&lt;br&gt;<br /> This would give us 13.75v, 10aH at 3.5lb for about $110.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After more research I went with (8) 40160S LiFePO4 batteries (16AH/ea). This project really only needs 4 of these<br /> batteries however I opted to build two battery packs. 4 of these batteries in series gives you around 13 volts.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The 40160S 16AH battery is no longer being sold. The manufacturer has replaced it with the 40152S 15AH battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Paired with each battery pack is a circuit which protects from overcharge/overdischarge/overcurrent. It also keeps the batteries balanced<br /> while charging. After a long search for a suitable lightweight container I found the 4-battery pack fits perfectly into a &quot;Huggies&quot;<br /> baby wipe plastic box. I cut a small slot in the box for a short piece of velcro which holds the lid closed. The complete pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If you intend on taking your backpack radio on a commercial aircraft, keep in mind there are restrictions on high capacity lithium ion batteries. If you believe this will be a problem you can build a pack from 11 NiMH D cells or use a pre-made NiMH RC pack. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Notice the top door works great for the powerpole.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is a view of the internals. The protection circuit board is on the top.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The AC adapter/charger===<br /> I wanted enough beef for the radio to do 20W off the adapter. I ended up getting IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter<br /> for about $14 off ebay. It is relatively small and weighs 0.4 lb. I run it through a bridge rectifier which reduces the voltage to 14.8V which is suitable for operating the radio and charging the battery pack. Of course running DC through a bridge rectifier only uses two of the four diodes however it was an inexpensive solution which is much easier than standalone diodes to mount to the cable/fuse.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I found that the battery pack can draw up to 8A during charging so I used a 10A fuse on the power supply. Yes, I know the power supply is only rated at 7.5A and putting a 10A fuse on it is not good practice. So far it hasn't been a problem. During charging the bridge rectifier can get quite hot so make sure it is on a non-flammable surface. The obvious solution to all this would be a series current limiting resistor which is something I'll look into when I get the time.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> For now I am charging the battery pack with a small smart charger (Noco Genius G3500) which is set for a standard 12V battery at a 3.5A charge rate. It just so happens that its output voltage on this setting is just right for charging the LiFePO4 battery. The Noco Genius is a handy little charger as it is also good for charging and topping off car batteries, AGM batteries, 12V 7AH brick batteries, etc. and it will float the batteries without overcharging them. Another nice thing about this charger is its small enough to fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ac_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Solar Panel===<br /> PowerFilm F15-1200 20W (10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6&quot; 1 lb )&lt;br&gt;<br /> Nice compact and light panel but a little pricey at $10/watt. I would have gone with their 30W panel but it was even more overpriced.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the solar panel<br /> [[File:W7ki_solar_panel.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Computer===<br /> EEEPC 1000h. Small battery-efficient netbook with 10&quot; screen. Used it because I had it on hand. Any netbook would probably do ok so<br /> long as it has mic/headphone jacks. One bonus of this particular computer is you can feed it 12VDC direct.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the computer<br /> [[File:W7ki_netbook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Data Interface===<br /> Homemade. Nothing fancy, just some audio isolation transformers, a level converter, and a PTT transistor.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The data interface and the tuner are attached to the mobile mounting bracket with velcro. Note how the mobile bracket is angled such that the front of the tuner is slightly elevated. This was done to give some clearance to the radio speaker and also helps to direct the audio out of the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_data_interface1.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Antenna===<br /> I looked at a variety of compact antennas (Outbacker Joey, Outbacker Stealth Plus, ATX-W38 walkabout, ATX-DHP, and a handful<br /> of others). It was difficult to find anything that would collapse to under 18 inches (requirement for the pack I'm using). It was probably just as well<br /> since many &quot;portable&quot; antennas are helical which I personally despise.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My original intent was to buy a &quot;Buddi&quot; product and evaluate how it worked in a vertical configuration. The only issue was whether their 80 meter coil would fit in the pack. I emailed them multiple times asking the dimensions of the coil but unfortunately all of my emails were ignored. This probably speaks volumes as to how they handle issues after a sale so I thought it best not to do business with them until their customer communication improves.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Of all the pre-made antennas I found two that appear to be worthwhile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One is the SuperAntenna MP1B SuperStick which is a good solution as it collapses to 12 inches and weighs under 2 pounds. When I first wrote this article their company had no products available which I believe was due to a transition in ownership. Their products are now available again and I plan on trying one out. I would buy the MP1B antenna, TM1 mount, and optionally MC60 coil for 60 meters and MC80 coil for 80 meters. A properly adjusted SuperAntenna requires no tuner however you need to use a correct length ground radial. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In June 2015 SuperAntenna released the MP1R SuperStick with a flexible whip.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As of 2017 SuperAntenna has the MP1DXMAX which appears to be a viable solution.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The other is the JPC-7 product line which can be found at http://www.108mhz.com/ham-antenna-c-59.html or on ebay. All three versions of the JPC-7 are lightweight and collapse to a small size.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you choose not to purchase a pre-made antenna, the text past this point describes an antenna/coil that you can build.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I ended up using a military AT271-A/PRC antenna. It is a 7 section antenna with a 3/8-24 base that extends to 113.5 inches and collapses to 17 inches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> It has an optional 8 inch spring (AB-129/PR) which I am not currently using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:At271a.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As an alternative I found an 8.5' collapsible aluminum pole made for measuring snowpacks and after some tinkering it worked like a charm. There is a threaded version which may work better (listed at the end of this article in the Parts Sources section).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pole_antenna.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Either of these antennas is very usable on HF when paired with a couple of 18&quot; aluminum extender rods and a large tapped coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_big_coil.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> Obviously running a huge coil with a short antenna is about as worthless as a short helical so its important to remember to use as much whip or longwire as you can if you<br /> are less than 1/4 wave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a horizontal option I built a tapped voltage balun which attaches to a vertical extension arm and connects to two spools of wire.<br /> [[File:W7ki_horiz_setup.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;The wire spools can also be used as a counterpoise for vertical configurations.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the bottom is a carbon fiber camera monopod which we use as a vertical extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the top is a carpal tunnel wrist strap which is used for attaching the monopod extension arm to the pack aluminum extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is wound on Coleman camping clothesline spools.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Another HF antenna option is to build the St. Louis Vertical: http://www.amqrp.org/projects/stluisvert/STLV%20Project.html&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For VHF/UHF I have a 17&quot; dual-band antenna. For VHF only you can also put one of the 18&quot; aluminum rods onto the 1&quot; antenna mount.&lt;br&gt;<br /> 6 meters can be done with the 17&quot; antenna on top of both 18&quot; rods.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Pack===<br /> I looked at dozens of packs before settling on the Jansport Driver 8. Most other packs were either oversized and/or too heavy.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My reasoning for a 21x14x10&quot; size limit is so you can carry this on a commercial airplane if you are traveling. You certainly wouldn't want<br /> to check this as luggage as it would probably get destroyed by handling or stolen.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Two main things I liked about the Driver 8 are the wheels and the telescoping arm. The telescoping arm is wonderful because it is very sturdy<br /> aluminum which allows you to securely attach an antenna to it. This is great for manpack operations if you want the antenna up while you are<br /> walking around with the pack on your back. It also works great for fixed operations as the pack itself can be used as an antenna base.<br /> The wheels not only give your back a break where smooth surfaces are available, they also give you the ability to easily lay down the pack when assembling a long antenna. Its like having a mini fold over tower.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The wheels are inline skate wheels and have a very low ground clearance. It will roll fine inside buildings or on a paved sidewalk. The wheels will not work on a trail. This is unfortunate as it is much easier to pull 35 lbs on wheels than to heft it on your back. One possible solution to this is to run a 1/2 inch rod (or thread stock?) along the bottom of the pack and install a pair of 10&quot; x 1.75 lightweight plastic wheels. I would use Martin Wheel part number 110 wheels because they come with metal ball bearings.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:w7ki_pack_radio.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Construction and Setup==<br /> A complete materials and sources list is at the end of this article.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Extension Rods and Antenna===<br /> To make the aluminum extension rods you need a 3 foot piece of aluminum rod. Cut the rod into 3 pieces, 2 of them will be 17 inches long and the third piece will be the remaining 2 inches.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take a 21/64 inch drill bit and drill about 1.5 inches into both ends of the 17 inch rods. Be careful to drill straight. Once this is done tap threads into both ends with a 3/8-24 tap. Tapping threads into aluminum generates a tremendous amount of heat so remember to tap slowly and use an oil lubricant. Right after tapping these rods I bumped one of them with my arm and got a very nasty burn.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the tapping is done thread a 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud into both ends of the rods. Then, for each rod, put a 3/8-24 jam nut over the stud on one end and put a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut over the stud on the other end. When you are done it should look like the picture below.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> This section deals with constructing the antenna if you chose not to buy an AT-271 antenna:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now grab the remaining 2 inch piece of aluminum rod. Drill one end 1 inch deep with a size F (.2443 inch) bit then drill the other end 1 inch deep with the 21/64 inch drill bit you used for the other rods. Tap 5/16-18 threads into the size F end and 3/8-24 threads into the 21/64 end.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take the aluminum snowpack pole, remove the lanyard string, push in the lower release spring button and shove it up the tube a couple inches, and tap the bottom for 5/16-18 threads. The two photos below show the start and finish of tapping the threads. I seriously do not recommend using vise-grips as shown in the photos. The antenna deforms very easily. It would be much better to lightly use a vise which can distribute the grip better with much less crush force. Again, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CRUSH OR DEFORM THE TUBE. I darn near destroyed the prototype using vise-grips.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Next we take a 1.5 inch 5/16-18 stud and thread half of it into the antenna. This is generally difficult to do so I recommend tightening two 5/16-18 nuts against each other onto the stud and use the outer nut with a wrench. Once the stud is threaded into the antenna you can thread the 2 inch aluminum rod onto the stud, then thread a 3/8-24 stud into the other end of the rod. Put a 3/8-24 jam nut onto the exposed threads. What you have done here is built a 5/16-18 to 3/8-24 thread adapter. The photo below shows what the finished product should look like.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rod_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The next step is to modify the antenna to make it conductive. The anodized surfaces do not conduct electricity so you need to take some sandpaper and sand out the inside of the bottom of each rod (about 3/4 inch should do). Another issue is the tapered inserts which are crimped into the top of the rods. These don't conduct either so you need to lightly bond them with an arc weld. This should be done with a MIG or TIG welder. Remember to sand the surfaces first, including the entire tapered section. I cheesed mine by using two truck batteries, a pair of jumper cables, and some real thin aluminum wire. Some people refer to this as hillbilly arc welding. Please don't do this unless you know the risks, know what you are doing, and you are using appropriate eye protection. Verify the end to end continuity of the antenna with an ohmmeter when you are done. Here is what mine looked like when it was done.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_hillbilly_weld.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The final step is to flatten out the pointed tip of the antenna rod. You can do this with a grinder or file.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Coil===<br /> The coil is made from a 7 3/4 inch piece of 4 inch diameter drainpipe with a drainpipe cap on each end. To make room for more coil turns we cut 1 3/8 inch off the end of the drainpipe cap. You need to cut two end caps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Locate the center of each cap, tap the center with a center punch or nail, drill a 1/8&quot; pilot hole, then drill in again with a 3/8&quot; bit.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now we take a piece of 1/4 inch schedule 80 pvc pipe and drill/tap it for 3/8-24 threads the same way you did the aluminum rods (except please don't use lubricating oil). Its important to use schedule 80 pipe as it has the correct inside diameter for tapping threads. The pipe should be about 7 1/2 inches long and later you might have to make some slight length adjustments for fit. Once your threads are tapped you can thread a 1.5 inch 3/8-24 stud into each end then put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer over the end (see photo below). Put one end into an end cap, put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer on the outside of the end cap, stack one 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal on top of the washer, and secure it with a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut stacked on top of the ring terminal.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Put the other end cap on. On the outside stack a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer, a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal, and a 3/8-24 jam nut.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to cover up any holes in the drainpipe with a square of duct tape.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To make the coil, glue 4 pieces of .065 Nylon Edge Trim as shown in the photo (credit to Phil AD5X for finding this edge trim). When cutting them to length, remember to offset each one to correctly accommodate a spirally-wound coil. Once this is done, drill a .065&quot; diagonal hole from the edge of the cap through the top of each cap (see photo), thread the wire through the hole and wind the coil with .064&quot; (14AWG) tin coated copper wire. Remember to keep tension on the coil or else it will wind loosely. The wire is stiff and doesn't come off the coil perfectly so there will be some manual coil alignment/straightening to do after the coil is wound. Once the coil is wound, put the ends thorough the 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminals, then cut &amp; solder. Be careful of heat damage to the plastic while soldering. Its usually best to loosen the end nuts prior to soldering as it will conduct less heat away from the ring terminals.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_end.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The coil tap is an EZ-Hook XM attached to a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal with an 11 inch piece of 22-gauge 7-strand insulated hookup wire. Attach the ring terminal above the coil ring terminal as shown in the photo.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_tap.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The EZ-Hook XM works great for 17AWG wire however its a little small for our 14AWG coil. The hook can be slightly adjusted with needlenose pliers to fit the 14AWG wire. The picture below shows the modified hook profile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ezhook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As built, the coil specs out like this: 7&quot; length, 4.25&quot; dia, 50 turns, 14ga .063 (spaced) = 129uH&lt;br&gt;<br /> Its a little overkill on the size &amp; inductance but it gives a lot of flexibility with short antennas.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Balun===<br /> The balun is based on a design by WB6ZQZ. His design appears to be a bifilar current balun in series with a quadrifilar voltage balun. We are only interested in the quadrifilar transformer because we will be using an external ferrite choke on the feedline (which allows us to use the choke for antenna configurations that don't use the voltage balun). Here is a link to instructions on how to wind the quadrifilar transformer:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> http://www.antennalaunchers.com/trb/photos.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Use 16ga enameled wire and a F-125-K toroid. Once the transformer is wound you can mount it on a small piece of plastic with holes drilled for the wires. Attach the wires to each other as per his schematic diagram and PC board photos.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mount the completed toroid into a 3x2x1 inch Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box. Install an SO-239 connector into the bottom of the box. For terminals I used (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts/nuts/wingnuts which are available at a home-improvement store. Label the terminals for Common, 50, 25, and 12 ohms. Attach a short piece of velcro to the back side which allows for mounting.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Antenna Mount &amp; Wire Spools===<br /> The antenna mount uses 1/4-20 hardware. I recommend replacing two of the nuts with wingnuts. Cut an 11 foot piece of Belden 8219 RG58A/U and loop it twice through two Laird LFB187102 ferrites as shown in the photo below. The coax fits tightly and we do not want to stretch it while pulling it through the ferrites so use a non-petroleum lubricant (I used cooking spray). Once this is done you can put UG-175/U reducers on the cable and solder a PL259 connector on each end.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_choke.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is spooled on a (2) Coleman 827E140T colthesline reels (thanks to Richard WA6KYR for finding these). Each Coleman reel comes with 21 feet of nylon cord. Pull all the cord out and cut off 13 feet so there is 8 feet remaining on the spool. Attach 59 1/2 feet of 22AWG insulated hookup wire to the end of the nylon cord. You can do this by stripping the end of the wire and pushing it through the middle of the nylon cord about 1/2 inch from the end, then secure the end of the nylon cord by lightly melting it with a lighter or soldering iron. Now you can reel in the wire. If it gets stuck you can open the reel with a 1/3 turn of the enclosure shell. Attach a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal to the end of the wire.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you are wondering why we use 59 1/2 feet it is because its the only length available that is reasonably close for loading at 75-80m and is not an even 1/2-wavelength multiple of any amateur band from 6m-40m (in fact we can go +/- 3 feet before bumping into one of these multiples. You should be able to roll this out to full length and tune any amateur band from 80m-6m. It also makes a good antenna to use with ALE and our RF-sensing tuner.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Battery===<br /> Each battery pack is made of (4) 40160S LiFePO4 cells (3.2V 16Ah) with a battery management circuit put into a Huggies wipe box.<br /> The battery management circuit sits on top of a plastic board which is an Akro-Mils 40150 (3.3 x 7.7 x 0.1 inch). Mount the batteries in the plastic holders, wire them in series with the bus bars, mount the battery management circuit, then wire it in. I recommend using a 30 amp fuse as pictured. Once this is done attach a 30A (12-14AWG) Powerpole connector with 12-gauge wire. The battery management circuit will charge the battery up to 14.2v before it automatically cuts off. The charger should be at least 14.6v.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each 40160S cell is rated at 3.65V (Max Charge), 3.2V (Nominal), and 2.0V (Discharge cut off).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Max charge current is 5C (80A) and max discharge current is 10C (160A).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cell life is rated at 2000 charge/discharge cycles under normal use.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Update November 2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Update November 2023: While this article is still a good read for building your own pack, it is probably easier to buy a Bioenno Power BLF-1215A LiFePO4 pack (15Ah / 4.5 lbs). Current price is $210.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete battery pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Data Interface===<br /> The data interface consists of audio isolation transformers, an RS232 level converter, and a PTT transistor. The audio circuit is per the &quot;KK7UQ Interface Model II&quot; circuit although I chose not to use the potentiometers and solid state relay in the original design. The original design and documentation can be found here:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://kk7uq.com/html/download/Manual2E.pdf<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The RS232 level converter is per a circuit attributed to OE1RIB.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I decided not to go with the Yaseu CT62 cable because I wanted the ability to use the DTR line for PTT (which is much cleaner for automated CW than keying with serial commands). Don't get me wrong here, I prefer a key, however flexibility was one of the design goals. I modified the level converter circuit to take power from the radio rather than trying to rob it from DTR/CTS with diodes. There is also a DPDT toggle switch on the back of the data interface which is an &quot;OFF&quot; switch (cuts the power from the radio and cuts the PTT line). I looked at off-the-shelf interfaces and most of them were either too big or required power for the audio circuitry.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Use a USB-serial converter if your computer doesn't have a serial port. I recommend using converters with the FTDI chipset for best performance and OS compatibility (I used USBG-RS232-F12 from usbgear.com).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the actual circuit I used to build the data interface:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to leave clearance for the jacks and switches when laying out the components on the PC board.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Velcro attachment<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Mounted to radio<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To connect the interface box to the radio I used a short piece of cat5 network cable wired like this&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT RD W-Br&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT TD W-G&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT + Br-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT GND G-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Data Out12 O-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data In W-Bl&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data PTT W-O&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data GND Bl-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The mini-din connectors go in very tight so beware of non-functioning or partial connections when you do this. Once you get them seated properly they work great and stay in place. Make sure to notch the back of the connector sleeves so the cables can exit at 90 degrees. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In the above photo you will also notice a connector/adapter contraption covered with electrical tape. These UHF right-angle adapters were used because the radio rests on its back side in the pack and we don't want the weight of the radio sitting on a PL259 connector and pinching the coax. All UHF right-angle adapters are not created equal. Most of them are garbage and use a small internal spring to connect the center conductor. The correct part to use is Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U. The adapter connecting the radio to the tuner is two of the Amphenol right-angle adapters connected with a short piece of LMR-600 with the center conductor diameter ground down from 0.176&quot; to 0.157&quot;. The length of the LMR600 and the mounting position of the tuner are critical because you don't want to obstruct the ports on the rear of the radio. As you can see in the photo below, this arrangement makes the back of the radio very compact which helps it fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_back.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Power Wiring===<br /> On the power supply you can add a third powerpole connector which is jumped to ground. When the third connector is also done on the radio side (connected to the radio brown wire) it forces the radio to 20W when plugged into the supply. This is good because our power supply is only rated for 7.5 amps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The power cable is 24 inches of 12-gauge red/black zipcord with a third wire for sensing low-power mode. Additionally it has a 16 inch length of zipcord for the tuner with a 2.5x5.5mm right-angle connector. As with the OEM cable, the 12-gauge cable splits off into two 14-gauge cables at the connector. You will notice that there are no fuses on this cable. I didn't bother because all my power sources for the pack are fused. In hindsight it would be prudent to put 30A fuses on both the positive and negative wires.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Third Powerpole connector for low power sense.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Connector end detail<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Monopod===<br /> The monopod is used to elevate the feedpoint of the dipole or a short vertical antenna. It is carbon fiber, weighs only 19oz, and extends to 68&quot;.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The monopod needs to be shortened to fit into the pack. Going around the perimeter of the small end rod, cut off the bottom half of the top rubber cap. This will allow the rod to collapse about an additional 1/2 inch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The bottom cap can be removed by pushing in the two roll pins with a small center punch. Then, with the rod fully collapsed, you will see there is about 13/16 inch you can saw off the big end without hitting the smaller rods that collapse inside of it. The photo below shows it after the cut.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Radio setup===<br /> Here is how I set mine up&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 7.000mhz<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to on.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 19&quot; (CAT Rate). Set it to 9600.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 29&quot; (CW Sidetone). Set it to 5.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 38&quot; (Dig Mode). Set it to PSK31-U.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 59&quot; (Mic Sel). Set it to RMT if you are using the MH-59A8J mic.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 86&quot; (TX IF Filter). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 2.3<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 50.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 144.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 20.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 446.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 10.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Enable 2.3kc filter for TX:<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push FUNC, rotate select to N, press 2.3 (above B key)<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ==Usage==<br /> The most basic setup is pulling the aluminum pack handle up one notch and attaching the mount/antenna. This can be used for a quick base setup or walking around with the pack on your back. The photo below shows the mount and 2m/70cm whip installed. If you want a somewhat useful counterpoise for 6m/2m/70cm without attaching the counterpoise wire, simply invert the feedline such that the chokes are by the radio instead of by the antenna. This way you can use the coax itself for a counterpoise. Its certainly not the best way to do it but it will work.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each aluminum rod is 18&quot; and you can use one of them by itself for a 2m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rods2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you use both rods with the 2m/70cm whip on top you will have a 6m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> You can use the monopod to elevate the a 6m/2m/70cm antenna. We use the carpal tunnel wrist strap to attach the monopod to the packs aluminum handle. The next photo looks like the leaning tower of Pisa because my first prototype was done with a medium-sized wrist strap. I have since moved to a small-sized strap which makes it stand much straighter. The monopod is good for 6m/2m/70cm verticals and for holding the feedpoint of a dipole. Do not use the monopod with the 8-foot antenna rod and/or the large loading coil as it gets too top heavy to remain stable. The following photo shows the ground radials installed and the choke ferrite near the antenna feedpoint. For a simpler setup you can skip the ground radials and invert the feedline (so the choke ferrites are near the radio) which will make the feedline act as a counterpoise. Yes I know this was said earlier in the article but its worth repeating.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_8.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Detail of antenna mount attached to the monopod pole<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_9.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The collapsible antenna by itself will work as a quarter-wave on 10m (pictured below) and should also tune up ok on 12m. It will work as a quarter-wave on 15m if you add the two aluminum extension rods.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Attaching the coil (tapped on the lowest turn) to the antenna base with the two aluminum rods above it will tune down to 80m. This configuration will have near zero efficiency however it will allow short-range communication on 75/80m while walking around with the pack on your back.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The best vertical configuration for 80m thru 17m is attaching the two rods to the base, putting the coil on top of the rods, then putting the collapsible aluminum antenna rod on top. It is best to tilt the pack over on its wheels and assemble the antenna on the ground.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once its assembled, tilt it up by lifting the aluminum arm on the pack. The weight of the batteries do a good job of keeping the antenna in place.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you want to try 160 meters you can remove the 8 foot whip and connect one of the 59-foot wire spools to the top of the coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a dipole configuration you can strap the balun to the top of the monopod and connect our spools of wire to it. Dipoles work best when they are at least 1/4 wave above the ground. Our feedpoint impedance will typically be much less than 50 ohms because in most cases we will be less than 1/4 wave off the ground. This will be especially noticeable on 40m/80m. Attach one wire to the &quot;C&quot; (common) balun terminal and attach the other wire to either the 12, 25, or 50 ohm terminal depending on which one works best. The wire spools use 3/8 ring terminals so we can optionally connect them directly to the vertical antenna mount if you want to feed a dipole directly without the balun.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One other important thing to note about dipoles is its best to keep the ends up off the ground. There is 8 feet of nylon rope at the end of the spools which can help in getting your wire somewhere it can be secured. In my pack I also keep short plastic tent stakes and short bungee cords which can help in some situations.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_10.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> There are a few other odds &amp; ends I keep in the pack. The PL-259 center to ring terminal adapter is for using the voltage balun with the vertical antenna. The Powerpole &quot;Y&quot; cable is for running the AC adapter or solar charger while using the radio. The short 3/8-24 bolt is for attaching a dipole wire directly to the antenna mount or to the top of the coil. There are also two 8-foot stereo cables for the data adapter and a 10-foot serial cable (not pictured). (I chose 8-10' cables to keep the computer RF a little ways away from the radio/antenna). At the bottom is the usb/serial adapter and on the bottom right are short velcro cable ties for attaching the feedline to the monopole and/or aluminum pack handle.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_misc.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is how it all fits into the pack<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_11.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete pack with both batteries and the computer weighs 35 lbs.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The weight can be substantially reduced by removing the spare battery, AC adapter, computer (if you don't need it), and any antenna parts you don't plan on using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In case you are wondering where the CW key/paddles are, I'm still working on finding a solution that works well with this portable setup.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Two that have been recommended are the Mini Paddle from Milestone Technologies and the Traveler Light from Begali.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Parts &amp; Prices==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> $799 FT857D w/YSK857<br /> $95 TCXO-9<br /> $82 MH-59A8J DTMF mic (also needed for direct freq entry)<br /> <br /> $120 W4RT2.3khz ssb filter<br /> $169 Z-11pro2<br /> <br /> $14 IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter (ebay)<br /> $2 bridge rectifier KBPC5010 (ebay)<br /> <br /> old: $144 (8) 16ah 40160s lifepo4 $24/ea (bmsbattery.com or manzanitamicro.com)<br /> new: $144 (8) 15ah 40152s lifepo4 $24/ea (evassemble.com)<br /> $3 (8) 40152S or 40160S battery holders 0.40/ea<br /> $4 (8) 40152S or 40160S bus bar connectors 0.50/ea<br /> $80 battery shipping<br /> <br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> <br /> $97 (2) 30A Battery Management PCB http://www.batteryspace.com/pcbprotectioncircuitmodulefor4cells128vlifepo4batterypackat30alimited.aspx<br /> <br /> $11 USB to serial converter http://www.usbgear.com/computer_cable_details.cfm?sku=USBG-RS232-F12&amp;cats=199&amp;catid=482%2C199%2C601%2C461<br /> <br /> $8 3/8X24 Thread Mirror Mount: Wilson 901104<br /> $5 (20') Belden 8219 (RG58A/U) <br /> $3 (4) Amphenol 83-185-RFX (UG-175 reducer)<br /> $20 (4) Amphenol 83-822 (PL259)<br /> $10 shipping (theantennafarm.com)<br /> <br /> $79 Jansport Driver 8 TN89-008 UPC 757969203361 Wheeled Backpack (buy.com)<br /> <br /> $6 dual-band (2/440) whip with 3/8x24 mount (hamstick EDBW-1, Opek DB-1, or Workman DB-1) <br /> $4 (2) WORKKW2000A or CONXPARTSA (this is the power cord and connector pins)<br /> $3 (6 feet) Red &amp; Black DC wire 12 GA<br /> $9 shipping (k1cra.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (3') LMR-600 (showmecables.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 nuts (7/16&quot; head)<br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts<br /> $2 (8) 1/4&quot;-20 wingnuts<br /> $9 (10') 4&quot; drainpipe (we need one 7 3/4&quot; piece)<br /> $4 (2) 4&quot; drainpipe cap (home depot)<br /> <br /> $20 (5) littelfuse FHA30 12AWG inline fuse holder<br /> $3 (1) 5-pack of ATO 7.5 fuse (drillspot.com)<br /> <br /> $3 4' 14 gauge cable (for short part of radio power connector) (.62/ft)<br /> $1 4' 18 gauge cable (for battery sense +/- to pcb, low power wire on power cable) (.31/ft)<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (22-18) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $4 (1) 1/4&quot; (16-14) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (12-10) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $10 shipping (parts-express.com)<br /> <br /> (1) DB9F mouser 156-1309 0.80<br /> (4) BC546A mouser 512-BC546A 0.10<br /> (2) 5.6k 1/4w mouser 588-OD562JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (3) 10k 1/4w mouser 588-OD103JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (1) 3.5mm 3-pin plug (cw) (2 wires used) mouser 568-NYS231BG 1.69 (for cw jack)<br /> (1) 8-pin mini-din (cat) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2608 1.49<br /> (1) 6-pin mini-din (data) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2606 1.36<br /> (2) 600ohm 1:1 transformer mouser 42TL016-RC 1.66<br /> (2) 51 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD510JE 0.42<br /> (1) 1uf cap mouser 5989-100V1.0-F 0.71<br /> (1) .0047uf cap mouser 140-50P5-472K-RC 50v ceramic disc 0.12<br /> (1) 100 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD101JE 0.42 carbon comp 5%<br /> (1) 1k 1/4w mouser 588-OD102JE 0.42<br /> (1) board mouser 854-PR1593K $4.10 2.6 x 2.6<br /> (1) box mouser 546-1593KBK $2.88 (box is 2.6 x 2.6 x 1.1)<br /> (2) 2.2k resistor 1/2w carbon comp 5% mouser 588-OF222JE (1/4w mouser 588-OD222JE 0.42 not avail)<br /> (4) PL259 right angle Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U Mouser 523-83-1AP $14.70/ea<br /> (1) 2.5x5.5mm right angle plug (24AWG) power plug for tuner mouser 171-3216-EX $1.04/ea<br /> (2) ferrites - mouser 875-LFB187102-000 3.03/ea 3/4&quot; OD .400&quot; ID 1.125&quot; long (3 turns RG58 = 1000 ohm impedance @ 1-5mhz)<br /> (2) mouser 526-WH22-00-100 100' 22awg copper 7-strand hookup wire black nteinc.com $19 (use p/n 03-100 for orange) insulation OD 0.060&quot;<br /> (2) 3.5mm stereo jacks 502-35RAPC3BV4 2.73<br /> $112 total<br /> $12 shipping (mouser.com)<br /> <br /> $8 (1) 14-pack 3/8 ring terminal 16-14AWG (JT&amp;T 2011H - amazon.com)<br /> $18 (2) 8ft 3.5mm stereo cables (mediabridge - amazon.com)<br /> $3 21/64 (.3281&quot;) drill bit for 3/8-24 threads (amazon.com)<br /> $28 3' Aluminum 6061-T6 Seamless Round Tubing, WW-T 700/6, 1/2&quot; OD, 1/4&quot; ID, 1/8&quot; Wall, 36&quot; Length (amazon.com)<br /> $65 Opteka CFM300 68&quot; 5 Section 8x Carbon Fiber Monopod (amazon.com)<br /> $209 (1) PowerFilm F15-1200 20W solar panel 10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6 1 lb (amazon.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (4) EZ-Hook XM (digi-key 461-1004-ND)<br /> <br /> $2 Akro-Mils plastic dividers (Akro-Mils 40150 wasserstrom.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (8) 3/8-24 Jam Nuts 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (2) 3/8-24 Hex Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $10 (5) 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (10) 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer 316 Stainless Steel<br /> $7 shipping (fastener-warehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $7 (5') 1/4&quot; schedule 80 PVC pipe (usplastic.com)<br /> <br /> $14 (2) coleman 827E140T colthesline reel (coleman.com)<br /> <br /> $58 AT-271A/PRC antenna (ebay) OR $58 Voile Tourlight Avalanche Probe (8 foot) (voile-usa.com)<br /> Alternatively there are threaded snow probes at: http://us-warehouse.genuineguidegear.com/collections/probes/products/solid-probes<br /> <br /> $2 (2) 6&quot; tent stakes (rei.com)<br /> $2 (1) 4-pack of 10&quot; bungee cords (rei.com)<br /> $8 tax/shipping (rei.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) F-125-K Toroid Core 1.25&quot; 250-300 permeability low loss ferrite 1-30 mhz (theaudioguru.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (1) 1/4 lb Wire, 16ga (0.05&quot;) enameled (we need 4 feet for toroid) (allspectrum.com or jameco.com)<br /> <br /> $20 (1) 79-87283 DonJoy COMFORTFORM WRIST support-Small right (expressorthopedics.com - warning, it takes them a month to ship it)<br /> <br /> $8 Cables To Go 52030 - 6ft DB9 M/F All Lines Extension Cable Black (nextwarehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) 85085K8 25-pack nylon edge trim .065 gap width 3/16 opening, 15/64 height, 12 3/4 long<br /> $23 (1) 8871K71 80' (1 lb) spool .064&quot; (14ga) tin coated copper wire (spool says Arcor 14AWG)<br /> $2 (1) 91187A202 1.5&quot; 5/16-18 RHT stainless stud (or you can order a 10-pack for $4.55 with part number 95412A587)<br /> $10 (2) 95412A659 5-pack of 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud<br /> $9 tax/shipping (mcmaster.com)<br /> <br /> ==========<br /> $2518 approximate cost<br /> <br /> <br /> $? (1) stickyback velcro (attach tuner to radio mount)<br /> <br /> $? (1) velcro wire ties (attach coax to antenna mast)<br /> <br /> $? (1) 3/8-24 tap<br /> $? (1) 5/16-18 tap<br /> $? (1) Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box (for balun) 3x2x1&quot;<br /> <br /> $? (4) 30A (12-14AWG) red/black powerpole connector (1 for radio, 2 for batteries, 1 for AC/DC power supply)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==More Information==<br /> Here are some websites with great ideas for building backpack radios:<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://ec1cw.blogspot.com/2012/12/my-ft-857d-manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/321107979094<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_22/665730_Build_your_own_HF_manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://hfpack.com/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://pinztrek.com/radio/hfpack/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.dbbear.com/k0emt/projant/hfpack/</div> Thu, 30 Nov 2023 18:01:25 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:W7KI_Manpack_Radio http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Jack_Gerritsen_KG6IRO <p>Rich:&#32;</p> <hr /> <div>(This article is about Jack Gerritsen of Bell, CA who had the amateur radio callsign KG6IRO)<br /> <br /> Jack Gerritsen was well known in Southern California for jamming radio communications. Here is a timeline:<br /> <br /> Decemeber 1999<br /> Arrested by the CHP for jamming police radios from his home in Bell, CA.<br /> <br /> June 2000<br /> Convicted of the above charge. Placed on probation.<br /> <br /> June 2001<br /> Applied for an amateur radio license. Issued a Technician-class license with the callsign KG6IRO.<br /> Almost immediately the FCC received complaints about his on-air behavior so they rescinded his license based on the complaints and because of his earlier conviction.<br /> <br /> July 2001<br /> Local police forwarded more complaints about his on-air behavior to the FCC. Again the FCC advised him that his license was not valid.<br /> <br /> January 2002<br /> Arrested for violating his probation (illegally using radios), sentenced to 18 months in prison.<br /> <br /> June 2003<br /> Released from prison, he begins jamming police radio, ham radio, and business band radio.<br /> <br /> November 2003<br /> FCC traces illegal transmissions as originating from his home. The FCC cited him for using a radio without a license.<br /> <br /> February 2004<br /> FCC traces illegal transmissions as originating from his home (again). The FCC issued a $10,000 fine against him.<br /> <br /> June 2004<br /> FCC traces illegal transmissions jamming the 147.435 repeater as originating from his home.<br /> <br /> July 2004<br /> FCC receives complaints that he is jamming the 146.985 and 147.105 repeaters.<br /> <br /> September 2004<br /> FCC receives complaints that he is jamming a Catalina Island repeater net, traces the transmissions as originating from his home.<br /> <br /> October 2004<br /> FCC receives a complaint that he is jamming a Catalina Island repeater while it was being used by the Coast Guard in an attempt to reach a ship that had lost radio contact and was in possible distress. FCC traces the jamming transmissions as originating from his home.<br /> <br /> December 2004<br /> The FCC issued a $21,000 fine against him for jamming ham repeaters from June 2004 to September 2004.<br /> <br /> January 2005<br /> The FCC issued a $21,000 fine against him for jamming the Catalina Island repeater in October 2004.<br /> <br /> February 2005<br /> He is observed jamming an American Red Cross radio net and an Army MARS radio net.<br /> <br /> April 2005<br /> He is observed on a local repeater making terrorist threats to a licensed ham and his family members.<br /> <br /> May 2005<br /> The FBI and FCC pay him a visit at his home in Bell, CA. He is arrested and his radio equipment was confiscated.<br /> He is indicted with six federal charges in regard to using a radio without a license and jamming radio transmissions.<br /> <br /> July 2005<br /> He is convicted in state court of making terrorist threats from the April 2005 incidents and sentenced to 4 months in county jail.<br /> <br /> September 2005<br /> He is released from county jail on the state charges.<br /> <br /> December 2005<br /> He is convicted on various charges from the May 2005 arrest.<br /> <br /> September 2006<br /> He is sentenced to 7 years in federal prison.<br /> <br /> July 2009<br /> He appeals his conviction claiming the government erred in allowing him to represent himself in court. The appeals court upholds his conviction.<br /> <br /> March 2012<br /> He is released from federal prison.<br /> <br /> April 2012<br /> Incessant jamming, playing of rap music, and repeated belching is heard on the 147.435 repeater.<br /> <br /> [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpllpB3aqMs Here is an example]</div> Thu, 05 Jan 2023 23:52:52 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:Jack_Gerritsen_KG6IRO http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/W7KI_Manpack_Radio <p>Rich:&#32;/* The Radio */</p> <hr /> <div>[[File:FT857_and_tuner_in_pack.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;This article details how I set up a HF/VHF/UHF manpack radio.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> ==Overview==<br /> ===Design goals===<br /> Radio RF Output:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Minimum of 20W, preferable to have optional 50W+ available if needed<br /> Radio Frequency coverage:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : HF, 6 meters, 2 meters, and 70cm<br /> Radio Modes:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : FM/SSB/CW/PSK<br /> Radio receive current:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : preferably less than 700mA<br /> Tuner:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : 10-500ohm minimum, preferable little to no idle current<br /> Battery:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : sufficient to handle a weekend without recharging<br /> Power:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Battery, AC, or solar&lt;br&gt;<br /> Antenna:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Vertical or dipole with optional voltage balun<br /> PC:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Small netbook capable of digital modes<br /> Size:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Everything fits within a pack suitable for airplane carry-on (21x14x10&quot;).<br /> All items:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Weight as minimal as possible !<br /> Cost:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : $2500 neighborhood<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Radio===<br /> Here is a quick rundown of the radios I considered:&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Military radios==== <br /> : I looked at the PRC-104, PRC-132, PRC-138, PRC-320, PRC-1099, PRC-2000, and AEG SE-6861.<br /> : All of them are good radios. Only problem is I want HF/6/2/440 so I'm stuck<br /> : with looking at amateur radios.<br /> <br /> ====Lab599 TX-500====<br /> : New 2020 !<br /> : Modern 10W HF/50mhz all mode portable transceiver with a rugged aluminum case.<br /> : Made in Russia. Worth checking out. Current price $790.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC-705====<br /> : New 2020 !<br /> : 10W HF/6/2/440 all mode portable SDR transceiver with a touchscreen display.<br /> : Matching pack and radio-specific ATU available.<br /> : If I had to re-do this project today this radio would be under serious consideration despite being 10W.<br /> : Current price $1300.<br /> <br /> ====Vertex VX-1210====<br /> : This is a commercial radio ($1400+, 7.1lb w/batt, rx: 500mA, tx: 3A/5W, 5A/20W)<br /> : Very tempting but is HF only. Has option for internal autotuner and can be<br /> : set up for VFO operation. Battery is 14.4v 4AH.<br /> <br /> ====Mobat Micom 3 Pathfinder====<br /> : This is a 25W commercial radio. Excessive cost for this project. Otherwise a great radio !<br /> <br /> ====Outback radios (QMAC, Barrett, Codan)====<br /> : QMAC HF90 excessive cost &amp; no longer made, Barrett 940 too heavy (18.5lbs w/tuner battery)<br /> : Barrett 2040, Codan 2110 excessive cost.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-817ND====<br /> : Portable amateur radio ($600, 2.6lb, 8-16v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 2A/5W)<br /> : Tempting, and would pair nicely with the LDG Z-817 or Elecraft T1 tuner.<br /> : Only problem is I want 20W+. This could be accomplished with a Tokyo High Power HL-45B<br /> : amp ($400, 3.4 lbs, 8.5A/45W, 160-6m) + LDG Z-817H tuner.<br /> : This is a viable combination and has the benefit of low RX current.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC703+====<br /> : Amateur radio (discontinued, 4.4lb, 9-15.8v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 3A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Nice radio, big and easily readable display, built in autotuner. Wish it did 2m/440<br /> : like its bigger brother (IC-706).<br /> <br /> ====Elecraft KX3====<br /> : Portable amateur radio (new to market, 1.5lb, 8-14v(?), rx: 150-???mA, tx: ?A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Great display and control layout located on what would normally be considered the &quot;top&quot;<br /> : of the radio which gives ample room compared to other radios. Built in autotuner. CW paddles<br /> : right on front of the radio. I would have liked to see a little more than 10W however its<br /> : certainly a reasonable and usable amount of power (and better than 5W). Has option for <br /> : an external KXPA100 100W amp and KXAT100 tuner. Overall it is an exciting product and I <br /> : probably would have bought one if I wasn't looking to have 2m/440 in the same radio.<br /> : I don't know if it supports CTCSS for 10m FM repeaters and CTCSS/DCS for 6m FM repeaters.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC706MK2G====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 5.5lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1800-2000mA, tx: 20A/100W)<br /> : RX current way too high, VHF frontend easily overloads. Nice display as with the IC703<br /> : above. The RX current is a deal breaker for battery ops. <br /> <br /> ====Icom IC7000====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($1200, 5.1lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1300-1600mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : Nice radio. RX current better than IC706 but still a little on the high side for battery ops.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-897D====<br /> : Mobile/portable amateur radio ($900, 8.6lb, 11.7-15.9v, rx: 600-1000mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : HF/50 MHz:5 watts = 4.0-4.7 amps 10 watts = 5.3-6.4 amps 25 watts = 7.3-9.2 amps 50 watts = 10.6-12.9 amps<br /> : 144 MHz: 5 watts = 3.4 amps 10 watts = 4.2 amps 25 watts = 6.3 amps 50 watts = 9.4 amps<br /> : 420 MHz: 5 watts = 4.2 amps 10 watts = 5.6 amps 20 watts = 8.7 amps<br /> :<br /> : Designed for field ops and has room for internal batteries (13.2v, 9AH) however the batteries<br /> : add an additional 6.5lbs to a radio which is already heavy at 8.6lbs. One option is to run your<br /> : own external battery which gives you room to install an internal 120V power supply. Overall<br /> : I really like this radio but its ruggedness will cost you in weight. You can get the FT-857D<br /> : (sacrificing the 897's rugged case and internal battery space) and save 4lbs on your back.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-857D====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 4.6lb, 12.4-15.2v,<br /> : rx: 600-1000mA (spec) 650-700mA (green/red backlight) 590mA (backlight off)<br /> : tx: 2A/5W 5A/15W 22A/100W)<br /> : Unlike the FT-897D above, this radio does not come with a TCXO. By the time you spend $100 on<br /> : the TCXO you end up with about the same radio as the FT-897D for the same price. Comparing the<br /> : FT-857D to the FT-897D has some pluses: 4lbs lighter, detachable head, and easier to mount mobile.<br /> : The minuses are we don't get the rugged case and battery space. I don't think either of these<br /> : minuses will matter as the radio and batteries will end up in a pack. One other thing to note is<br /> : both the 857 and 897 will automatically limit the radio to 20W when running on battery power<br /> : (by grounding the brown wire on the power connector).<br /> : Spec says voltage is 12.4-15.2, manual says 11.73-15.87.<br /> : The 857's signal will start sounding bad at about 11.75v.<br /> <br /> Given everything above it came down to deciding between the FT-857D and FT-897D.&lt;br&gt;<br /> I chose the FT-857D because its 4lbs lighter than the FT-897D. Every pound counts when backpacking !&lt;br&gt;<br /> The radio is best equipped with: tcxo-9, keypad mic, (2) W4RT/inrad.net filters.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Tuner===<br /> For honorable mention we have the long-discontinued Kenwood AT-130 which is a very small 80-10m(+WARC)&lt;br&gt;<br /> manual tuner (6 x 2.4 x 6.3 inches, 3.5 lbs.). For field ops I prefer a small autotuner. Yaesu makes the&lt;br&gt;<br /> FC-30 ($170, 17-150 ohms, 3.1 x 1.8 x 10.2 in, 2.2 lbs) however its 17-150 ohm tuning range is quite&lt;br&gt;<br /> narrow compared to the LDG product line.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the breakdown of the LDG products I looked at. All of them have latching relays.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> : $200 LDG YT-100 for 857/897 100w 4-800 ohm 7 x 7 x 2 1.5lbs<br /> : $200 LDG AT-897+ for 857/897 100w 6-800 ohm 11.5 x 3.25 x 1.5 2.0lbs<br /> : $160 Z100+ ? 125w 6-800 ohm 5.5 x 5.5 x 1.5 1 lb w/o batts<br /> : $170 Z11pro2 6-1000 ohm 7.7 x 5.0 x 1.5 1.5lb w/o batts<br /> &lt;br&gt; <br /> I ended up going with the Z11pro2 as it can autotune based on RF sense which keeps the CAT and ACC ports free. This is good because we&lt;br&gt;<br /> need both ports for our data interface. Another bonus of RF sense tuning is it makes the radio PC-ALE capable provided the antenna is&lt;br&gt;<br /> tunable on whatever ALE frequencies are to be used.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device on the left is the data/soundcard interface&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[File:FT857_and_tuner.jpg]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Battery===<br /> The following text describes how to build a battery pack. If you do not want to build this battery pack then you can buy one already built. For example you can look up &quot;ZIPPY Flightmax 8400mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack&quot; which currently sells for about $75. You will need to find a suitable charger for it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> I initially considered using 11 Accupower NiMH low-discharge &quot;D&quot; cells (10aH, 1.25v, 145g ea.)&lt;br&gt;<br /> This would give us 13.75v, 10aH at 3.5lb for about $110.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After more research I went with (8) 40160S LiFePO4 batteries (16AH/ea). This project really only needs 4 of these<br /> batteries however I opted to build two battery packs. 4 of these batteries in series gives you around 13 volts.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The 40160S 16AH battery is no longer being sold. The manufacturer has replaced it with the 40152S 15AH battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Paired with each battery pack is a circuit which protects from overcharge/overdischarge/overcurrent. It also keeps the batteries balanced<br /> while charging. After a long search for a suitable lightweight container I found the 4-battery pack fits perfectly into a &quot;Huggies&quot;<br /> baby wipe plastic box. I cut a small slot in the box for a short piece of velcro which holds the lid closed. The complete pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If you intend on taking your backpack radio on a commercial aircraft, keep in mind there are restrictions on high capacity lithium ion batteries. If you believe this will be a problem you can build a pack from 11 NiMH D cells or use a pre-made NiMH RC pack. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Notice the top door works great for the powerpole.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is a view of the internals. The protection circuit board is on the top.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The AC adapter/charger===<br /> I wanted enough beef for the radio to do 20W off the adapter. I ended up getting IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter<br /> for about $14 off ebay. It is relatively small and weighs 0.4 lb. I run it through a bridge rectifier which reduces the voltage to 14.8V which is suitable for operating the radio and charging the battery pack. Of course running DC through a bridge rectifier only uses two of the four diodes however it was an inexpensive solution which is much easier than standalone diodes to mount to the cable/fuse.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I found that the battery pack can draw up to 8A during charging so I used a 10A fuse on the power supply. Yes, I know the power supply is only rated at 7.5A and putting a 10A fuse on it is not good practice. So far it hasn't been a problem. During charging the bridge rectifier can get quite hot so make sure it is on a non-flammable surface. The obvious solution to all this would be a series current limiting resistor which is something I'll look into when I get the time.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> For now I am charging the battery pack with a small smart charger (Noco Genius G3500) which is set for a standard 12V battery at a 3.5A charge rate. It just so happens that its output voltage on this setting is just right for charging the LiFePO4 battery. The Noco Genius is a handy little charger as it is also good for charging and topping off car batteries, AGM batteries, 12V 7AH brick batteries, etc. and it will float the batteries without overcharging them. Another nice thing about this charger is its small enough to fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ac_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Solar Panel===<br /> PowerFilm F15-1200 20W (10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6&quot; 1 lb )&lt;br&gt;<br /> Nice compact and light panel but a little pricey at $10/watt. I would have gone with their 30W panel but it was even more overpriced.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the solar panel<br /> [[File:W7ki_solar_panel.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Computer===<br /> EEEPC 1000h. Small battery-efficient netbook with 10&quot; screen. Used it because I had it on hand. Any netbook would probably do ok so<br /> long as it has mic/headphone jacks. One bonus of this particular computer is you can feed it 12VDC direct.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the computer<br /> [[File:W7ki_netbook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Data Interface===<br /> Homemade. Nothing fancy, just some audio isolation transformers, a level converter, and a PTT transistor.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The data interface and the tuner are attached to the mobile mounting bracket with velcro. Note how the mobile bracket is angled such that the front of the tuner is slightly elevated. This was done to give some clearance to the radio speaker and also helps to direct the audio out of the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_data_interface1.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Antenna===<br /> I looked at a variety of compact antennas (Outbacker Joey, Outbacker Stealth Plus, ATX-W38 walkabout, ATX-DHP, and a handful<br /> of others). It was difficult to find anything that would collapse to under 18 inches (requirement for the pack I'm using). It was probably just as well<br /> since many &quot;portable&quot; antennas are helical which I personally despise.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My original intent was to buy a &quot;Buddi&quot; product and evaluate how it worked in a vertical configuration. The only issue was whether their 80 meter coil would fit in the pack. I emailed them multiple times asking the dimensions of the coil but unfortunately all of my emails were ignored. This probably speaks volumes as to how they handle issues after a sale so I thought it best not to do business with them until their customer communication improves.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Of all the pre-made antennas I found two that appear to be worthwhile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One is the SuperAntenna MP1B SuperStick which is a good solution as it collapses to 12 inches and weighs under 2 pounds. When I first wrote this article their company had no products available which I believe was due to a transition in ownership. Their products are now available again and I plan on trying one out. I would buy the MP1B antenna, TM1 mount, and optionally MC60 coil for 60 meters and MC80 coil for 80 meters. A properly adjusted SuperAntenna requires no tuner however you need to use a correct length ground radial. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In June 2015 SuperAntenna released the MP1R SuperStick with a flexible whip.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As of 2017 SuperAntenna has the MP1DXMAX which appears to be a viable solution.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The other is the JPC-7 product line which can be found at http://www.108mhz.com/ham-antenna-c-59.html or on ebay. All three versions of the JPC-7 are lightweight and collapse to a small size.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you choose not to purchase a pre-made antenna, the text past this point describes an antenna/coil that you can build.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I ended up using a military AT271-A/PRC antenna. It is a 7 section antenna with a 3/8-24 base that extends to 113.5 inches and collapses to 17 inches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> It has an optional 8 inch spring (AB-129/PR) which I am not currently using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:At271a.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As an alternative I found an 8.5' collapsible aluminum pole made for measuring snowpacks and after some tinkering it worked like a charm. There is a threaded version which may work better (listed at the end of this article in the Parts Sources section).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pole_antenna.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Either of these antennas is very usable on HF when paired with a couple of 18&quot; aluminum extender rods and a large tapped coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_big_coil.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> Obviously running a huge coil with a short antenna is about as worthless as a short helical so its important to remember to use as much whip or longwire as you can if you<br /> are less than 1/4 wave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a horizontal option I built a tapped voltage balun which attaches to a vertical extension arm and connects to two spools of wire.<br /> [[File:W7ki_horiz_setup.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;The wire spools can also be used as a counterpoise for vertical configurations.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the bottom is a carbon fiber camera monopod which we use as a vertical extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the top is a carpal tunnel wrist strap which is used for attaching the monopod extension arm to the pack aluminum extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is wound on Coleman camping clothesline spools.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Another HF antenna option is to build the St. Louis Vertical: http://www.amqrp.org/projects/stluisvert/STLV%20Project.html&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For VHF/UHF I have a 17&quot; dual-band antenna. For VHF only you can also put one of the 18&quot; aluminum rods onto the 1&quot; antenna mount.&lt;br&gt;<br /> 6 meters can be done with the 17&quot; antenna on top of both 18&quot; rods.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Pack===<br /> I looked at dozens of packs before settling on the Jansport Driver 8. Most other packs were either oversized and/or too heavy.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My reasoning for a 21x14x10&quot; size limit is so you can carry this on a commercial airplane if you are traveling. You certainly wouldn't want<br /> to check this as luggage as it would probably get destroyed by handling or stolen.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Two main things I liked about the Driver 8 are the wheels and the telescoping arm. The telescoping arm is wonderful because it is very sturdy<br /> aluminum which allows you to securely attach an antenna to it. This is great for manpack operations if you want the antenna up while you are<br /> walking around with the pack on your back. It also works great for fixed operations as the pack itself can be used as an antenna base.<br /> The wheels not only give your back a break where smooth surfaces are available, they also give you the ability to easily lay down the pack when assembling a long antenna. Its like having a mini fold over tower.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The wheels are inline skate wheels and have a very low ground clearance. It will roll fine inside buildings or on a paved sidewalk. The wheels will not work on a trail. This is unfortunate as it is much easier to pull 35 lbs on wheels than to heft it on your back. One possible solution to this is to run a 1/2 inch rod (or thread stock?) along the bottom of the pack and install a pair of 10&quot; x 1.75 lightweight plastic wheels. I would use Martin Wheel part number 110 wheels because they come with metal ball bearings.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:w7ki_pack_radio.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Construction and Setup==<br /> A complete materials and sources list is at the end of this article.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Extension Rods and Antenna===<br /> To make the aluminum extension rods you need a 3 foot piece of aluminum rod. Cut the rod into 3 pieces, 2 of them will be 17 inches long and the third piece will be the remaining 2 inches.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take a 21/64 inch drill bit and drill about 1.5 inches into both ends of the 17 inch rods. Be careful to drill straight. Once this is done tap threads into both ends with a 3/8-24 tap. Tapping threads into aluminum generates a tremendous amount of heat so remember to tap slowly and use an oil lubricant. Right after tapping these rods I bumped one of them with my arm and got a very nasty burn.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the tapping is done thread a 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud into both ends of the rods. Then, for each rod, put a 3/8-24 jam nut over the stud on one end and put a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut over the stud on the other end. When you are done it should look like the picture below.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> This section deals with constructing the antenna if you chose not to buy an AT-271 antenna:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now grab the remaining 2 inch piece of aluminum rod. Drill one end 1 inch deep with a size F (.2443 inch) bit then drill the other end 1 inch deep with the 21/64 inch drill bit you used for the other rods. Tap 5/16-18 threads into the size F end and 3/8-24 threads into the 21/64 end.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take the aluminum snowpack pole, remove the lanyard string, push in the lower release spring button and shove it up the tube a couple inches, and tap the bottom for 5/16-18 threads. The two photos below show the start and finish of tapping the threads. I seriously do not recommend using vise-grips as shown in the photos. The antenna deforms very easily. It would be much better to lightly use a vise which can distribute the grip better with much less crush force. Again, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CRUSH OR DEFORM THE TUBE. I darn near destroyed the prototype using vise-grips.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Next we take a 1.5 inch 5/16-18 stud and thread half of it into the antenna. This is generally difficult to do so I recommend tightening two 5/16-18 nuts against each other onto the stud and use the outer nut with a wrench. Once the stud is threaded into the antenna you can thread the 2 inch aluminum rod onto the stud, then thread a 3/8-24 stud into the other end of the rod. Put a 3/8-24 jam nut onto the exposed threads. What you have done here is built a 5/16-18 to 3/8-24 thread adapter. The photo below shows what the finished product should look like.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rod_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The next step is to modify the antenna to make it conductive. The anodized surfaces do not conduct electricity so you need to take some sandpaper and sand out the inside of the bottom of each rod (about 3/4 inch should do). Another issue is the tapered inserts which are crimped into the top of the rods. These don't conduct either so you need to lightly bond them with an arc weld. This should be done with a MIG or TIG welder. Remember to sand the surfaces first, including the entire tapered section. I cheesed mine by using two truck batteries, a pair of jumper cables, and some real thin aluminum wire. Some people refer to this as hillbilly arc welding. Please don't do this unless you know the risks, know what you are doing, and you are using appropriate eye protection. Verify the end to end continuity of the antenna with an ohmmeter when you are done. Here is what mine looked like when it was done.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_hillbilly_weld.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The final step is to flatten out the pointed tip of the antenna rod. You can do this with a grinder or file.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Coil===<br /> The coil is made from a 7 3/4 inch piece of 4 inch diameter drainpipe with a drainpipe cap on each end. To make room for more coil turns we cut 1 3/8 inch off the end of the drainpipe cap. You need to cut two end caps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Locate the center of each cap, tap the center with a center punch or nail, drill a 1/8&quot; pilot hole, then drill in again with a 3/8&quot; bit.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now we take a piece of 1/4 inch schedule 80 pvc pipe and drill/tap it for 3/8-24 threads the same way you did the aluminum rods (except please don't use lubricating oil). Its important to use schedule 80 pipe as it has the correct inside diameter for tapping threads. The pipe should be about 7 1/2 inches long and later you might have to make some slight length adjustments for fit. Once your threads are tapped you can thread a 1.5 inch 3/8-24 stud into each end then put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer over the end (see photo below). Put one end into an end cap, put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer on the outside of the end cap, stack one 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal on top of the washer, and secure it with a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut stacked on top of the ring terminal.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Put the other end cap on. On the outside stack a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer, a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal, and a 3/8-24 jam nut.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to cover up any holes in the drainpipe with a square of duct tape.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To make the coil, glue 4 pieces of .065 Nylon Edge Trim as shown in the photo (credit to Phil AD5X for finding this edge trim). When cutting them to length, remember to offset each one to correctly accommodate a spirally-wound coil. Once this is done, drill a .065&quot; diagonal hole from the edge of the cap through the top of each cap (see photo), thread the wire through the hole and wind the coil with .064&quot; (14AWG) tin coated copper wire. Remember to keep tension on the coil or else it will wind loosely. The wire is stiff and doesn't come off the coil perfectly so there will be some manual coil alignment/straightening to do after the coil is wound. Once the coil is wound, put the ends thorough the 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminals, then cut &amp; solder. Be careful of heat damage to the plastic while soldering. Its usually best to loosen the end nuts prior to soldering as it will conduct less heat away from the ring terminals.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_end.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The coil tap is an EZ-Hook XM attached to a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal with an 11 inch piece of 22-gauge 7-strand insulated hookup wire. Attach the ring terminal above the coil ring terminal as shown in the photo.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_tap.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The EZ-Hook XM works great for 17AWG wire however its a little small for our 14AWG coil. The hook can be slightly adjusted with needlenose pliers to fit the 14AWG wire. The picture below shows the modified hook profile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ezhook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As built, the coil specs out like this: 7&quot; length, 4.25&quot; dia, 50 turns, 14ga .063 (spaced) = 129uH&lt;br&gt;<br /> Its a little overkill on the size &amp; inductance but it gives a lot of flexibility with short antennas.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Balun===<br /> The balun is based on a design by WB6ZQZ. His design appears to be a bifilar current balun in series with a quadrifilar voltage balun. We are only interested in the quadrifilar transformer because we will be using an external ferrite choke on the feedline (which allows us to use the choke for antenna configurations that don't use the voltage balun). Here is a link to instructions on how to wind the quadrifilar transformer:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> http://www.antennalaunchers.com/trb/photos.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Use 16ga enameled wire and a F-125-K toroid. Once the transformer is wound you can mount it on a small piece of plastic with holes drilled for the wires. Attach the wires to each other as per his schematic diagram and PC board photos.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mount the completed toroid into a 3x2x1 inch Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box. Install an SO-239 connector into the bottom of the box. For terminals I used (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts/nuts/wingnuts which are available at a home-improvement store. Label the terminals for Common, 50, 25, and 12 ohms. Attach a short piece of velcro to the back side which allows for mounting.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Antenna Mount &amp; Wire Spools===<br /> The antenna mount uses 1/4-20 hardware. I recommend replacing two of the nuts with wingnuts. Cut an 11 foot piece of Belden 8219 RG58A/U and loop it twice through two Laird LFB187102 ferrites as shown in the photo below. The coax fits tightly and we do not want to stretch it while pulling it through the ferrites so use a non-petroleum lubricant (I used cooking spray). Once this is done you can put UG-175/U reducers on the cable and solder a PL259 connector on each end.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_choke.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is spooled on a (2) Coleman 827E140T colthesline reels (thanks to Richard WA6KYR for finding these). Each Coleman reel comes with 21 feet of nylon cord. Pull all the cord out and cut off 13 feet so there is 8 feet remaining on the spool. Attach 59 1/2 feet of 22AWG insulated hookup wire to the end of the nylon cord. You can do this by stripping the end of the wire and pushing it through the middle of the nylon cord about 1/2 inch from the end, then secure the end of the nylon cord by lightly melting it with a lighter or soldering iron. Now you can reel in the wire. If it gets stuck you can open the reel with a 1/3 turn of the enclosure shell. Attach a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal to the end of the wire.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you are wondering why we use 59 1/2 feet it is because its the only length available that is reasonably close for loading at 75-80m and is not an even 1/2-wavelength multiple of any amateur band from 6m-40m (in fact we can go +/- 3 feet before bumping into one of these multiples. You should be able to roll this out to full length and tune any amateur band from 80m-6m. It also makes a good antenna to use with ALE and our RF-sensing tuner.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Battery===<br /> Each battery pack is made of (4) 40160S LiFePO4 cells (3.2V 16Ah) with a battery management circuit put into a Huggies wipe box.<br /> The battery management circuit sits on top of a plastic board which is an Akro-Mils 40150 (3.3 x 7.7 x 0.1 inch). Mount the batteries in the plastic holders, wire them in series with the bus bars, mount the battery management circuit, then wire it in. I recommend using a 30 amp fuse as pictured. Once this is done attach a 30A (12-14AWG) Powerpole connector with 12-gauge wire. The battery management circuit will charge the battery up to 14.2v before it automatically cuts off. The charger should be at least 14.6v.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each 40160S cell is rated at 3.65V (Max Charge), 3.2V (Nominal), and 2.0V (Discharge cut off).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Max charge current is 5C (80A) and max discharge current is 10C (160A).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cell life is rated at 2000 charge/discharge cycles under normal use.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete battery pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Data Interface===<br /> The data interface consists of audio isolation transformers, an RS232 level converter, and a PTT transistor. The audio circuit is per the &quot;KK7UQ Interface Model II&quot; circuit although I chose not to use the potentiometers and solid state relay in the original design. The original design and documentation can be found here:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://kk7uq.com/html/download/Manual2E.pdf<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The RS232 level converter is per a circuit attributed to OE1RIB.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I decided not to go with the Yaseu CT62 cable because I wanted the ability to use the DTR line for PTT (which is much cleaner for automated CW than keying with serial commands). Don't get me wrong here, I prefer a key, however flexibility was one of the design goals. I modified the level converter circuit to take power from the radio rather than trying to rob it from DTR/CTS with diodes. There is also a DPDT toggle switch on the back of the data interface which is an &quot;OFF&quot; switch (cuts the power from the radio and cuts the PTT line). I looked at off-the-shelf interfaces and most of them were either too big or required power for the audio circuitry.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Use a USB-serial converter if your computer doesn't have a serial port. I recommend using converters with the FTDI chipset for best performance and OS compatibility (I used USBG-RS232-F12 from usbgear.com).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the actual circuit I used to build the data interface:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to leave clearance for the jacks and switches when laying out the components on the PC board.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Velcro attachment<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Mounted to radio<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To connect the interface box to the radio I used a short piece of cat5 network cable wired like this&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT RD W-Br&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT TD W-G&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT + Br-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT GND G-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Data Out12 O-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data In W-Bl&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data PTT W-O&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data GND Bl-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The mini-din connectors go in very tight so beware of non-functioning or partial connections when you do this. Once you get them seated properly they work great and stay in place. Make sure to notch the back of the connector sleeves so the cables can exit at 90 degrees. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In the above photo you will also notice a connector/adapter contraption covered with electrical tape. These UHF right-angle adapters were used because the radio rests on its back side in the pack and we don't want the weight of the radio sitting on a PL259 connector and pinching the coax. All UHF right-angle adapters are not created equal. Most of them are garbage and use a small internal spring to connect the center conductor. The correct part to use is Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U. The adapter connecting the radio to the tuner is two of the Amphenol right-angle adapters connected with a short piece of LMR-600 with the center conductor diameter ground down from 0.176&quot; to 0.157&quot;. The length of the LMR600 and the mounting position of the tuner are critical because you don't want to obstruct the ports on the rear of the radio. As you can see in the photo below, this arrangement makes the back of the radio very compact which helps it fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_back.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Power Wiring===<br /> On the power supply you can add a third powerpole connector which is jumped to ground. When the third connector is also done on the radio side (connected to the radio brown wire) it forces the radio to 20W when plugged into the supply. This is good because our power supply is only rated for 7.5 amps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The power cable is 24 inches of 12-gauge red/black zipcord with a third wire for sensing low-power mode. Additionally it has a 16 inch length of zipcord for the tuner with a 2.5x5.5mm right-angle connector. As with the OEM cable, the 12-gauge cable splits off into two 14-gauge cables at the connector. You will notice that there are no fuses on this cable. I didn't bother because all my power sources for the pack are fused. In hindsight it would be prudent to put 30A fuses on both the positive and negative wires.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Third Powerpole connector for low power sense.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Connector end detail<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Monopod===<br /> The monopod is used to elevate the feedpoint of the dipole or a short vertical antenna. It is carbon fiber, weighs only 19oz, and extends to 68&quot;.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The monopod needs to be shortened to fit into the pack. Going around the perimeter of the small end rod, cut off the bottom half of the top rubber cap. This will allow the rod to collapse about an additional 1/2 inch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The bottom cap can be removed by pushing in the two roll pins with a small center punch. Then, with the rod fully collapsed, you will see there is about 13/16 inch you can saw off the big end without hitting the smaller rods that collapse inside of it. The photo below shows it after the cut.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Radio setup===<br /> Here is how I set mine up&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 7.000mhz<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to on.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 19&quot; (CAT Rate). Set it to 9600.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 29&quot; (CW Sidetone). Set it to 5.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 38&quot; (Dig Mode). Set it to PSK31-U.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 59&quot; (Mic Sel). Set it to RMT if you are using the MH-59A8J mic.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 86&quot; (TX IF Filter). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 2.3<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 50.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 144.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 20.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 446.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 10.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Enable 2.3kc filter for TX:<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push FUNC, rotate select to N, press 2.3 (above B key)<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ==Usage==<br /> The most basic setup is pulling the aluminum pack handle up one notch and attaching the mount/antenna. This can be used for a quick base setup or walking around with the pack on your back. The photo below shows the mount and 2m/70cm whip installed. If you want a somewhat useful counterpoise for 6m/2m/70cm without attaching the counterpoise wire, simply invert the feedline such that the chokes are by the radio instead of by the antenna. This way you can use the coax itself for a counterpoise. Its certainly not the best way to do it but it will work.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each aluminum rod is 18&quot; and you can use one of them by itself for a 2m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rods2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you use both rods with the 2m/70cm whip on top you will have a 6m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> You can use the monopod to elevate the a 6m/2m/70cm antenna. We use the carpal tunnel wrist strap to attach the monopod to the packs aluminum handle. The next photo looks like the leaning tower of Pisa because my first prototype was done with a medium-sized wrist strap. I have since moved to a small-sized strap which makes it stand much straighter. The monopod is good for 6m/2m/70cm verticals and for holding the feedpoint of a dipole. Do not use the monopod with the 8-foot antenna rod and/or the large loading coil as it gets too top heavy to remain stable. The following photo shows the ground radials installed and the choke ferrite near the antenna feedpoint. For a simpler setup you can skip the ground radials and invert the feedline (so the choke ferrites are near the radio) which will make the feedline act as a counterpoise. Yes I know this was said earlier in the article but its worth repeating.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_8.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Detail of antenna mount attached to the monopod pole<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_9.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The collapsible antenna by itself will work as a quarter-wave on 10m (pictured below) and should also tune up ok on 12m. It will work as a quarter-wave on 15m if you add the two aluminum extension rods.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Attaching the coil (tapped on the lowest turn) to the antenna base with the two aluminum rods above it will tune down to 80m. This configuration will have near zero efficiency however it will allow short-range communication on 75/80m while walking around with the pack on your back.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The best vertical configuration for 80m thru 17m is attaching the two rods to the base, putting the coil on top of the rods, then putting the collapsible aluminum antenna rod on top. It is best to tilt the pack over on its wheels and assemble the antenna on the ground.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once its assembled, tilt it up by lifting the aluminum arm on the pack. The weight of the batteries do a good job of keeping the antenna in place.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you want to try 160 meters you can remove the 8 foot whip and connect one of the 59-foot wire spools to the top of the coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a dipole configuration you can strap the balun to the top of the monopod and connect our spools of wire to it. Dipoles work best when they are at least 1/4 wave above the ground. Our feedpoint impedance will typically be much less than 50 ohms because in most cases we will be less than 1/4 wave off the ground. This will be especially noticeable on 40m/80m. Attach one wire to the &quot;C&quot; (common) balun terminal and attach the other wire to either the 12, 25, or 50 ohm terminal depending on which one works best. The wire spools use 3/8 ring terminals so we can optionally connect them directly to the vertical antenna mount if you want to feed a dipole directly without the balun.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One other important thing to note about dipoles is its best to keep the ends up off the ground. There is 8 feet of nylon rope at the end of the spools which can help in getting your wire somewhere it can be secured. In my pack I also keep short plastic tent stakes and short bungee cords which can help in some situations.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_10.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> There are a few other odds &amp; ends I keep in the pack. The PL-259 center to ring terminal adapter is for using the voltage balun with the vertical antenna. The Powerpole &quot;Y&quot; cable is for running the AC adapter or solar charger while using the radio. The short 3/8-24 bolt is for attaching a dipole wire directly to the antenna mount or to the top of the coil. There are also two 8-foot stereo cables for the data adapter and a 10-foot serial cable (not pictured). (I chose 8-10' cables to keep the computer RF a little ways away from the radio/antenna). At the bottom is the usb/serial adapter and on the bottom right are short velcro cable ties for attaching the feedline to the monopole and/or aluminum pack handle.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_misc.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is how it all fits into the pack<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_11.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete pack with both batteries and the computer weighs 35 lbs.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The weight can be substantially reduced by removing the spare battery, AC adapter, computer (if you don't need it), and any antenna parts you don't plan on using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In case you are wondering where the CW key/paddles are, I'm still working on finding a solution that works well with this portable setup.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Two that have been recommended are the Mini Paddle from Milestone Technologies and the Traveler Light from Begali.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Parts &amp; Prices==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> $799 FT857D w/YSK857<br /> $95 TCXO-9<br /> $82 MH-59A8J DTMF mic (also needed for direct freq entry)<br /> <br /> $120 W4RT2.3khz ssb filter<br /> $169 Z-11pro2<br /> <br /> $14 IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter (ebay)<br /> $2 bridge rectifier KBPC5010 (ebay)<br /> <br /> old: $144 (8) 16ah 40160s lifepo4 $24/ea (bmsbattery.com or manzanitamicro.com)<br /> new: $144 (8) 15ah 40152s lifepo4 $24/ea (evassemble.com)<br /> $3 (8) 40152S or 40160S battery holders 0.40/ea<br /> $4 (8) 40152S or 40160S bus bar connectors 0.50/ea<br /> $80 battery shipping<br /> <br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> <br /> $97 (2) 30A Battery Management PCB http://www.batteryspace.com/pcbprotectioncircuitmodulefor4cells128vlifepo4batterypackat30alimited.aspx<br /> <br /> $11 USB to serial converter http://www.usbgear.com/computer_cable_details.cfm?sku=USBG-RS232-F12&amp;cats=199&amp;catid=482%2C199%2C601%2C461<br /> <br /> $8 3/8X24 Thread Mirror Mount: Wilson 901104<br /> $5 (20') Belden 8219 (RG58A/U) <br /> $3 (4) Amphenol 83-185-RFX (UG-175 reducer)<br /> $20 (4) Amphenol 83-822 (PL259)<br /> $10 shipping (theantennafarm.com)<br /> <br /> $79 Jansport Driver 8 TN89-008 UPC 757969203361 Wheeled Backpack (buy.com)<br /> <br /> $6 dual-band (2/440) whip with 3/8x24 mount (hamstick EDBW-1, Opek DB-1, or Workman DB-1) <br /> $4 (2) WORKKW2000A or CONXPARTSA (this is the power cord and connector pins)<br /> $3 (6 feet) Red &amp; Black DC wire 12 GA<br /> $9 shipping (k1cra.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (3') LMR-600 (showmecables.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 nuts (7/16&quot; head)<br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts<br /> $2 (8) 1/4&quot;-20 wingnuts<br /> $9 (10') 4&quot; drainpipe (we need one 7 3/4&quot; piece)<br /> $4 (2) 4&quot; drainpipe cap (home depot)<br /> <br /> $20 (5) littelfuse FHA30 12AWG inline fuse holder<br /> $3 (1) 5-pack of ATO 7.5 fuse (drillspot.com)<br /> <br /> $3 4' 14 gauge cable (for short part of radio power connector) (.62/ft)<br /> $1 4' 18 gauge cable (for battery sense +/- to pcb, low power wire on power cable) (.31/ft)<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (22-18) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $4 (1) 1/4&quot; (16-14) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (12-10) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $10 shipping (parts-express.com)<br /> <br /> (1) DB9F mouser 156-1309 0.80<br /> (4) BC546A mouser 512-BC546A 0.10<br /> (2) 5.6k 1/4w mouser 588-OD562JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (3) 10k 1/4w mouser 588-OD103JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (1) 3.5mm 3-pin plug (cw) (2 wires used) mouser 568-NYS231BG 1.69 (for cw jack)<br /> (1) 8-pin mini-din (cat) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2608 1.49<br /> (1) 6-pin mini-din (data) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2606 1.36<br /> (2) 600ohm 1:1 transformer mouser 42TL016-RC 1.66<br /> (2) 51 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD510JE 0.42<br /> (1) 1uf cap mouser 5989-100V1.0-F 0.71<br /> (1) .0047uf cap mouser 140-50P5-472K-RC 50v ceramic disc 0.12<br /> (1) 100 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD101JE 0.42 carbon comp 5%<br /> (1) 1k 1/4w mouser 588-OD102JE 0.42<br /> (1) board mouser 854-PR1593K $4.10 2.6 x 2.6<br /> (1) box mouser 546-1593KBK $2.88 (box is 2.6 x 2.6 x 1.1)<br /> (2) 2.2k resistor 1/2w carbon comp 5% mouser 588-OF222JE (1/4w mouser 588-OD222JE 0.42 not avail)<br /> (4) PL259 right angle Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U Mouser 523-83-1AP $14.70/ea<br /> (1) 2.5x5.5mm right angle plug (24AWG) power plug for tuner mouser 171-3216-EX $1.04/ea<br /> (2) ferrites - mouser 875-LFB187102-000 3.03/ea 3/4&quot; OD .400&quot; ID 1.125&quot; long (3 turns RG58 = 1000 ohm impedance @ 1-5mhz)<br /> (2) mouser 526-WH22-00-100 100' 22awg copper 7-strand hookup wire black nteinc.com $19 (use p/n 03-100 for orange) insulation OD 0.060&quot;<br /> (2) 3.5mm stereo jacks 502-35RAPC3BV4 2.73<br /> $112 total<br /> $12 shipping (mouser.com)<br /> <br /> $8 (1) 14-pack 3/8 ring terminal 16-14AWG (JT&amp;T 2011H - amazon.com)<br /> $18 (2) 8ft 3.5mm stereo cables (mediabridge - amazon.com)<br /> $3 21/64 (.3281&quot;) drill bit for 3/8-24 threads (amazon.com)<br /> $28 3' Aluminum 6061-T6 Seamless Round Tubing, WW-T 700/6, 1/2&quot; OD, 1/4&quot; ID, 1/8&quot; Wall, 36&quot; Length (amazon.com)<br /> $65 Opteka CFM300 68&quot; 5 Section 8x Carbon Fiber Monopod (amazon.com)<br /> $209 (1) PowerFilm F15-1200 20W solar panel 10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6 1 lb (amazon.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (4) EZ-Hook XM (digi-key 461-1004-ND)<br /> <br /> $2 Akro-Mils plastic dividers (Akro-Mils 40150 wasserstrom.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (8) 3/8-24 Jam Nuts 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (2) 3/8-24 Hex Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $10 (5) 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (10) 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer 316 Stainless Steel<br /> $7 shipping (fastener-warehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $7 (5') 1/4&quot; schedule 80 PVC pipe (usplastic.com)<br /> <br /> $14 (2) coleman 827E140T colthesline reel (coleman.com)<br /> <br /> $58 AT-271A/PRC antenna (ebay) OR $58 Voile Tourlight Avalanche Probe (8 foot) (voile-usa.com)<br /> Alternatively there are threaded snow probes at: http://us-warehouse.genuineguidegear.com/collections/probes/products/solid-probes<br /> <br /> $2 (2) 6&quot; tent stakes (rei.com)<br /> $2 (1) 4-pack of 10&quot; bungee cords (rei.com)<br /> $8 tax/shipping (rei.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) F-125-K Toroid Core 1.25&quot; 250-300 permeability low loss ferrite 1-30 mhz (theaudioguru.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (1) 1/4 lb Wire, 16ga (0.05&quot;) enameled (we need 4 feet for toroid) (allspectrum.com or jameco.com)<br /> <br /> $20 (1) 79-87283 DonJoy COMFORTFORM WRIST support-Small right (expressorthopedics.com - warning, it takes them a month to ship it)<br /> <br /> $8 Cables To Go 52030 - 6ft DB9 M/F All Lines Extension Cable Black (nextwarehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) 85085K8 25-pack nylon edge trim .065 gap width 3/16 opening, 15/64 height, 12 3/4 long<br /> $23 (1) 8871K71 80' (1 lb) spool .064&quot; (14ga) tin coated copper wire (spool says Arcor 14AWG)<br /> $2 (1) 91187A202 1.5&quot; 5/16-18 RHT stainless stud (or you can order a 10-pack for $4.55 with part number 95412A587)<br /> $10 (2) 95412A659 5-pack of 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud<br /> $9 tax/shipping (mcmaster.com)<br /> <br /> ==========<br /> $2518 approximate cost<br /> <br /> <br /> $? (1) stickyback velcro (attach tuner to radio mount)<br /> <br /> $? (1) velcro wire ties (attach coax to antenna mast)<br /> <br /> $? (1) 3/8-24 tap<br /> $? (1) 5/16-18 tap<br /> $? (1) Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box (for balun) 3x2x1&quot;<br /> <br /> $? (4) 30A (12-14AWG) red/black powerpole connector (1 for radio, 2 for batteries, 1 for AC/DC power supply)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==More Information==<br /> Here are some websites with great ideas for building backpack radios:<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://ec1cw.blogspot.com/2012/12/my-ft-857d-manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/321107979094<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_22/665730_Build_your_own_HF_manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://hfpack.com/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://pinztrek.com/radio/hfpack/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.dbbear.com/k0emt/projant/hfpack/</div> Sun, 04 Oct 2020 04:37:05 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:W7KI_Manpack_Radio http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/W7KI_Manpack_Radio <p>Rich:&#32;/* The Antenna */</p> <hr /> <div>[[File:FT857_and_tuner_in_pack.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;This article details how I set up a HF/VHF/UHF manpack radio.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> ==Overview==<br /> ===Design goals===<br /> Radio RF Output:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Minimum of 20W, preferable to have optional 50W+ available if needed<br /> Radio Frequency coverage:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : HF, 6 meters, 2 meters, and 70cm<br /> Radio Modes:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : FM/SSB/CW/PSK<br /> Radio receive current:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : preferably less than 700mA<br /> Tuner:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : 10-500ohm minimum, preferable little to no idle current<br /> Battery:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : sufficient to handle a weekend without recharging<br /> Power:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Battery, AC, or solar&lt;br&gt;<br /> Antenna:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Vertical or dipole with optional voltage balun<br /> PC:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Small netbook capable of digital modes<br /> Size:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Everything fits within a pack suitable for airplane carry-on (21x14x10&quot;).<br /> All items:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Weight as minimal as possible !<br /> Cost:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : $2500 neighborhood<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Radio===<br /> Here is a quick rundown of the radios I considered:&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Military radios==== <br /> : I looked at the PRC-104, PRC-132, PRC-138, PRC-320, PRC-1099, PRC-2000, and AEG SE-6861.<br /> : All of them are good radios. Only problem is I want HF/6/2/440 so I'm stuck<br /> : with looking at amateur radios.<br /> <br /> ====Vertex VX-1210====<br /> : This is a commercial radio ($1400+, 7.1lb w/batt, rx: 500mA, tx: 3A/5W, 5A/20W)<br /> : Very tempting but is HF only. Has option for internal autotuner and can be<br /> : set up for VFO operation. Battery is 14.4v 4AH.<br /> <br /> ====Mobat Micom 3 Pathfinder====<br /> : This is a 25W commercial radio. Excessive cost for this project. Otherwise a great radio !<br /> <br /> ====Outback radios (QMAC, Barrett, Codan)====<br /> : QMAC HF90 excessive cost &amp; no longer made, Barrett 940 too heavy (18.5lbs w/tuner battery)<br /> : Barrett 2040, Codan 2110 excessive cost.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-817ND====<br /> : Portable amateur radio ($600, 2.6lb, 8-16v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 2A/5W)<br /> : Tempting, and would pair nicely with the LDG Z-817 or Elecraft T1 tuner.<br /> : Only problem is I want 20W+. This could be accomplished with a Tokyo High Power HL-45B<br /> : amp ($400, 3.4 lbs, 8.5A/45W, 160-6m) + LDG Z-817H tuner.<br /> : This is a viable combination and has the benefit of low RX current.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC703+====<br /> : Amateur radio (discontinued, 4.4lb, 9-15.8v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 3A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Nice radio, big and easily readable display, built in autotuner. Wish it did 2m/440<br /> : like its bigger brother (IC-706).<br /> <br /> ====Elecraft KX3====<br /> : Portable amateur radio (new to market, 1.5lb, 8-14v(?), rx: 150-???mA, tx: ?A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Great display and control layout located on what would normally be considered the &quot;top&quot;<br /> : of the radio which gives ample room compared to other radios. Built in autotuner. CW paddles<br /> : right on front of the radio. I would have liked to see a little more than 10W however its<br /> : certainly a reasonable and usable amount of power (and better than 5W). Has option for <br /> : an external KXPA100 100W amp and KXAT100 tuner. Overall it is an exciting product and I <br /> : probably would have bought one if I wasn't looking to have 2m/440 in the same radio.<br /> : I don't know if it supports CTCSS for 10m FM repeaters and CTCSS/DCS for 6m FM repeaters.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC706MK2G====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 5.5lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1800-2000mA, tx: 20A/100W)<br /> : RX current way too high, VHF frontend easily overloads. Nice display as with the IC703<br /> : above. The RX current is a deal breaker for battery ops. <br /> <br /> ====Icom IC7000====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($1200, 5.1lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1300-1600mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : Nice radio. RX current better than IC706 but still a little on the high side for battery ops.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-897D====<br /> : Mobile/portable amateur radio ($900, 8.6lb, 11.7-15.9v, rx: 600-1000mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : HF/50 MHz:5 watts = 4.0-4.7 amps 10 watts = 5.3-6.4 amps 25 watts = 7.3-9.2 amps 50 watts = 10.6-12.9 amps<br /> : 144 MHz: 5 watts = 3.4 amps 10 watts = 4.2 amps 25 watts = 6.3 amps 50 watts = 9.4 amps<br /> : 420 MHz: 5 watts = 4.2 amps 10 watts = 5.6 amps 20 watts = 8.7 amps<br /> :<br /> : Designed for field ops and has room for internal batteries (13.2v, 9AH) however the batteries<br /> : add an additional 6.5lbs to a radio which is already heavy at 8.6lbs. One option is to run your<br /> : own external battery which gives you room to install an internal 120V power supply. Overall<br /> : I really like this radio but its ruggedness will cost you in weight. You can get the FT-857D<br /> : (sacrificing the 897's rugged case and internal battery space) and save 4lbs on your back.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-857D====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 4.6lb, 12.4-15.2v,<br /> : rx: 600-1000mA (spec) 650-700mA (green/red backlight) 590mA (backlight off)<br /> : tx: 2A/5W 5A/15W 22A/100W)<br /> : Unlike the FT-897D above, this radio does not come with a TCXO. By the time you spend $100 on<br /> : the TCXO you end up with about the same radio as the FT-897D for the same price. Comparing the<br /> : FT-857D to the FT-897D has some pluses: 4lbs lighter, detachable head, and easier to mount mobile.<br /> : The minuses are we don't get the rugged case and battery space. I don't think either of these<br /> : minuses will matter as the radio and batteries will end up in a pack. One other thing to note is<br /> : both the 857 and 897 will automatically limit the radio to 20W when running on battery power<br /> : (by grounding the brown wire on the power connector).<br /> : Spec says voltage is 12.4-15.2, manual says 11.73-15.87.<br /> : The 857's signal will start sounding bad at about 11.75v.<br /> <br /> Given everything above it came down to deciding between the FT-857D and FT-897D.&lt;br&gt;<br /> I chose the FT-857D because its 4lbs lighter than the FT-897D. Every pound counts when backpacking !&lt;br&gt;<br /> The radio is best equipped with: tcxo-9, keypad mic, (2) W4RT/inrad.net filters.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Tuner===<br /> For honorable mention we have the long-discontinued Kenwood AT-130 which is a very small 80-10m(+WARC)&lt;br&gt;<br /> manual tuner (6 x 2.4 x 6.3 inches, 3.5 lbs.). For field ops I prefer a small autotuner. Yaesu makes the&lt;br&gt;<br /> FC-30 ($170, 17-150 ohms, 3.1 x 1.8 x 10.2 in, 2.2 lbs) however its 17-150 ohm tuning range is quite&lt;br&gt;<br /> narrow compared to the LDG product line.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the breakdown of the LDG products I looked at. All of them have latching relays.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> : $200 LDG YT-100 for 857/897 100w 4-800 ohm 7 x 7 x 2 1.5lbs<br /> : $200 LDG AT-897+ for 857/897 100w 6-800 ohm 11.5 x 3.25 x 1.5 2.0lbs<br /> : $160 Z100+ ? 125w 6-800 ohm 5.5 x 5.5 x 1.5 1 lb w/o batts<br /> : $170 Z11pro2 6-1000 ohm 7.7 x 5.0 x 1.5 1.5lb w/o batts<br /> &lt;br&gt; <br /> I ended up going with the Z11pro2 as it can autotune based on RF sense which keeps the CAT and ACC ports free. This is good because we&lt;br&gt;<br /> need both ports for our data interface. Another bonus of RF sense tuning is it makes the radio PC-ALE capable provided the antenna is&lt;br&gt;<br /> tunable on whatever ALE frequencies are to be used.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device on the left is the data/soundcard interface&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[File:FT857_and_tuner.jpg]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Battery===<br /> The following text describes how to build a battery pack. If you do not want to build this battery pack then you can buy one already built. For example you can look up &quot;ZIPPY Flightmax 8400mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack&quot; which currently sells for about $75. You will need to find a suitable charger for it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> I initially considered using 11 Accupower NiMH low-discharge &quot;D&quot; cells (10aH, 1.25v, 145g ea.)&lt;br&gt;<br /> This would give us 13.75v, 10aH at 3.5lb for about $110.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After more research I went with (8) 40160S LiFePO4 batteries (16AH/ea). This project really only needs 4 of these<br /> batteries however I opted to build two battery packs. 4 of these batteries in series gives you around 13 volts.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The 40160S 16AH battery is no longer being sold. The manufacturer has replaced it with the 40152S 15AH battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Paired with each battery pack is a circuit which protects from overcharge/overdischarge/overcurrent. It also keeps the batteries balanced<br /> while charging. After a long search for a suitable lightweight container I found the 4-battery pack fits perfectly into a &quot;Huggies&quot;<br /> baby wipe plastic box. I cut a small slot in the box for a short piece of velcro which holds the lid closed. The complete pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If you intend on taking your backpack radio on a commercial aircraft, keep in mind there are restrictions on high capacity lithium ion batteries. If you believe this will be a problem you can build a pack from 11 NiMH D cells or use a pre-made NiMH RC pack. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Notice the top door works great for the powerpole.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is a view of the internals. The protection circuit board is on the top.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The AC adapter/charger===<br /> I wanted enough beef for the radio to do 20W off the adapter. I ended up getting IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter<br /> for about $14 off ebay. It is relatively small and weighs 0.4 lb. I run it through a bridge rectifier which reduces the voltage to 14.8V which is suitable for operating the radio and charging the battery pack. Of course running DC through a bridge rectifier only uses two of the four diodes however it was an inexpensive solution which is much easier than standalone diodes to mount to the cable/fuse.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I found that the battery pack can draw up to 8A during charging so I used a 10A fuse on the power supply. Yes, I know the power supply is only rated at 7.5A and putting a 10A fuse on it is not good practice. So far it hasn't been a problem. During charging the bridge rectifier can get quite hot so make sure it is on a non-flammable surface. The obvious solution to all this would be a series current limiting resistor which is something I'll look into when I get the time.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> For now I am charging the battery pack with a small smart charger (Noco Genius G3500) which is set for a standard 12V battery at a 3.5A charge rate. It just so happens that its output voltage on this setting is just right for charging the LiFePO4 battery. The Noco Genius is a handy little charger as it is also good for charging and topping off car batteries, AGM batteries, 12V 7AH brick batteries, etc. and it will float the batteries without overcharging them. Another nice thing about this charger is its small enough to fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ac_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Solar Panel===<br /> PowerFilm F15-1200 20W (10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6&quot; 1 lb )&lt;br&gt;<br /> Nice compact and light panel but a little pricey at $10/watt. I would have gone with their 30W panel but it was even more overpriced.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the solar panel<br /> [[File:W7ki_solar_panel.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Computer===<br /> EEEPC 1000h. Small battery-efficient netbook with 10&quot; screen. Used it because I had it on hand. Any netbook would probably do ok so<br /> long as it has mic/headphone jacks. One bonus of this particular computer is you can feed it 12VDC direct.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the computer<br /> [[File:W7ki_netbook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Data Interface===<br /> Homemade. Nothing fancy, just some audio isolation transformers, a level converter, and a PTT transistor.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The data interface and the tuner are attached to the mobile mounting bracket with velcro. Note how the mobile bracket is angled such that the front of the tuner is slightly elevated. This was done to give some clearance to the radio speaker and also helps to direct the audio out of the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_data_interface1.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Antenna===<br /> I looked at a variety of compact antennas (Outbacker Joey, Outbacker Stealth Plus, ATX-W38 walkabout, ATX-DHP, and a handful<br /> of others). It was difficult to find anything that would collapse to under 18 inches (requirement for the pack I'm using). It was probably just as well<br /> since many &quot;portable&quot; antennas are helical which I personally despise.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My original intent was to buy a &quot;Buddi&quot; product and evaluate how it worked in a vertical configuration. The only issue was whether their 80 meter coil would fit in the pack. I emailed them multiple times asking the dimensions of the coil but unfortunately all of my emails were ignored. This probably speaks volumes as to how they handle issues after a sale so I thought it best not to do business with them until their customer communication improves.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Of all the pre-made antennas I found two that appear to be worthwhile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One is the SuperAntenna MP1B SuperStick which is a good solution as it collapses to 12 inches and weighs under 2 pounds. When I first wrote this article their company had no products available which I believe was due to a transition in ownership. Their products are now available again and I plan on trying one out. I would buy the MP1B antenna, TM1 mount, and optionally MC60 coil for 60 meters and MC80 coil for 80 meters. A properly adjusted SuperAntenna requires no tuner however you need to use a correct length ground radial. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In June 2015 SuperAntenna released the MP1R SuperStick with a flexible whip.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As of 2017 SuperAntenna has the MP1DXMAX which appears to be a viable solution.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The other is the JPC-7 product line which can be found at http://www.108mhz.com/ham-antenna-c-59.html or on ebay. All three versions of the JPC-7 are lightweight and collapse to a small size.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you choose not to purchase a pre-made antenna, the text past this point describes an antenna/coil that you can build.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I ended up using a military AT271-A/PRC antenna. It is a 7 section antenna with a 3/8-24 base that extends to 113.5 inches and collapses to 17 inches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> It has an optional 8 inch spring (AB-129/PR) which I am not currently using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:At271a.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As an alternative I found an 8.5' collapsible aluminum pole made for measuring snowpacks and after some tinkering it worked like a charm. There is a threaded version which may work better (listed at the end of this article in the Parts Sources section).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pole_antenna.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Either of these antennas is very usable on HF when paired with a couple of 18&quot; aluminum extender rods and a large tapped coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_big_coil.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> Obviously running a huge coil with a short antenna is about as worthless as a short helical so its important to remember to use as much whip or longwire as you can if you<br /> are less than 1/4 wave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a horizontal option I built a tapped voltage balun which attaches to a vertical extension arm and connects to two spools of wire.<br /> [[File:W7ki_horiz_setup.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;The wire spools can also be used as a counterpoise for vertical configurations.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the bottom is a carbon fiber camera monopod which we use as a vertical extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the top is a carpal tunnel wrist strap which is used for attaching the monopod extension arm to the pack aluminum extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is wound on Coleman camping clothesline spools.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Another HF antenna option is to build the St. Louis Vertical: http://www.amqrp.org/projects/stluisvert/STLV%20Project.html&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For VHF/UHF I have a 17&quot; dual-band antenna. For VHF only you can also put one of the 18&quot; aluminum rods onto the 1&quot; antenna mount.&lt;br&gt;<br /> 6 meters can be done with the 17&quot; antenna on top of both 18&quot; rods.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Pack===<br /> I looked at dozens of packs before settling on the Jansport Driver 8. Most other packs were either oversized and/or too heavy.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My reasoning for a 21x14x10&quot; size limit is so you can carry this on a commercial airplane if you are traveling. You certainly wouldn't want<br /> to check this as luggage as it would probably get destroyed by handling or stolen.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Two main things I liked about the Driver 8 are the wheels and the telescoping arm. The telescoping arm is wonderful because it is very sturdy<br /> aluminum which allows you to securely attach an antenna to it. This is great for manpack operations if you want the antenna up while you are<br /> walking around with the pack on your back. It also works great for fixed operations as the pack itself can be used as an antenna base.<br /> The wheels not only give your back a break where smooth surfaces are available, they also give you the ability to easily lay down the pack when assembling a long antenna. Its like having a mini fold over tower.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The wheels are inline skate wheels and have a very low ground clearance. It will roll fine inside buildings or on a paved sidewalk. The wheels will not work on a trail. This is unfortunate as it is much easier to pull 35 lbs on wheels than to heft it on your back. One possible solution to this is to run a 1/2 inch rod (or thread stock?) along the bottom of the pack and install a pair of 10&quot; x 1.75 lightweight plastic wheels. I would use Martin Wheel part number 110 wheels because they come with metal ball bearings.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:w7ki_pack_radio.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Construction and Setup==<br /> A complete materials and sources list is at the end of this article.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Extension Rods and Antenna===<br /> To make the aluminum extension rods you need a 3 foot piece of aluminum rod. Cut the rod into 3 pieces, 2 of them will be 17 inches long and the third piece will be the remaining 2 inches.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take a 21/64 inch drill bit and drill about 1.5 inches into both ends of the 17 inch rods. Be careful to drill straight. Once this is done tap threads into both ends with a 3/8-24 tap. Tapping threads into aluminum generates a tremendous amount of heat so remember to tap slowly and use an oil lubricant. Right after tapping these rods I bumped one of them with my arm and got a very nasty burn.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the tapping is done thread a 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud into both ends of the rods. Then, for each rod, put a 3/8-24 jam nut over the stud on one end and put a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut over the stud on the other end. When you are done it should look like the picture below.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> This section deals with constructing the antenna if you chose not to buy an AT-271 antenna:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now grab the remaining 2 inch piece of aluminum rod. Drill one end 1 inch deep with a size F (.2443 inch) bit then drill the other end 1 inch deep with the 21/64 inch drill bit you used for the other rods. Tap 5/16-18 threads into the size F end and 3/8-24 threads into the 21/64 end.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take the aluminum snowpack pole, remove the lanyard string, push in the lower release spring button and shove it up the tube a couple inches, and tap the bottom for 5/16-18 threads. The two photos below show the start and finish of tapping the threads. I seriously do not recommend using vise-grips as shown in the photos. The antenna deforms very easily. It would be much better to lightly use a vise which can distribute the grip better with much less crush force. Again, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CRUSH OR DEFORM THE TUBE. I darn near destroyed the prototype using vise-grips.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Next we take a 1.5 inch 5/16-18 stud and thread half of it into the antenna. This is generally difficult to do so I recommend tightening two 5/16-18 nuts against each other onto the stud and use the outer nut with a wrench. Once the stud is threaded into the antenna you can thread the 2 inch aluminum rod onto the stud, then thread a 3/8-24 stud into the other end of the rod. Put a 3/8-24 jam nut onto the exposed threads. What you have done here is built a 5/16-18 to 3/8-24 thread adapter. The photo below shows what the finished product should look like.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rod_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The next step is to modify the antenna to make it conductive. The anodized surfaces do not conduct electricity so you need to take some sandpaper and sand out the inside of the bottom of each rod (about 3/4 inch should do). Another issue is the tapered inserts which are crimped into the top of the rods. These don't conduct either so you need to lightly bond them with an arc weld. This should be done with a MIG or TIG welder. Remember to sand the surfaces first, including the entire tapered section. I cheesed mine by using two truck batteries, a pair of jumper cables, and some real thin aluminum wire. Some people refer to this as hillbilly arc welding. Please don't do this unless you know the risks, know what you are doing, and you are using appropriate eye protection. Verify the end to end continuity of the antenna with an ohmmeter when you are done. Here is what mine looked like when it was done.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_hillbilly_weld.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The final step is to flatten out the pointed tip of the antenna rod. You can do this with a grinder or file.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Coil===<br /> The coil is made from a 7 3/4 inch piece of 4 inch diameter drainpipe with a drainpipe cap on each end. To make room for more coil turns we cut 1 3/8 inch off the end of the drainpipe cap. You need to cut two end caps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Locate the center of each cap, tap the center with a center punch or nail, drill a 1/8&quot; pilot hole, then drill in again with a 3/8&quot; bit.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now we take a piece of 1/4 inch schedule 80 pvc pipe and drill/tap it for 3/8-24 threads the same way you did the aluminum rods (except please don't use lubricating oil). Its important to use schedule 80 pipe as it has the correct inside diameter for tapping threads. The pipe should be about 7 1/2 inches long and later you might have to make some slight length adjustments for fit. Once your threads are tapped you can thread a 1.5 inch 3/8-24 stud into each end then put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer over the end (see photo below). Put one end into an end cap, put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer on the outside of the end cap, stack one 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal on top of the washer, and secure it with a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut stacked on top of the ring terminal.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Put the other end cap on. On the outside stack a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer, a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal, and a 3/8-24 jam nut.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to cover up any holes in the drainpipe with a square of duct tape.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To make the coil, glue 4 pieces of .065 Nylon Edge Trim as shown in the photo (credit to Phil AD5X for finding this edge trim). When cutting them to length, remember to offset each one to correctly accommodate a spirally-wound coil. Once this is done, drill a .065&quot; diagonal hole from the edge of the cap through the top of each cap (see photo), thread the wire through the hole and wind the coil with .064&quot; (14AWG) tin coated copper wire. Remember to keep tension on the coil or else it will wind loosely. The wire is stiff and doesn't come off the coil perfectly so there will be some manual coil alignment/straightening to do after the coil is wound. Once the coil is wound, put the ends thorough the 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminals, then cut &amp; solder. Be careful of heat damage to the plastic while soldering. Its usually best to loosen the end nuts prior to soldering as it will conduct less heat away from the ring terminals.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_end.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The coil tap is an EZ-Hook XM attached to a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal with an 11 inch piece of 22-gauge 7-strand insulated hookup wire. Attach the ring terminal above the coil ring terminal as shown in the photo.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_tap.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The EZ-Hook XM works great for 17AWG wire however its a little small for our 14AWG coil. The hook can be slightly adjusted with needlenose pliers to fit the 14AWG wire. The picture below shows the modified hook profile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ezhook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As built, the coil specs out like this: 7&quot; length, 4.25&quot; dia, 50 turns, 14ga .063 (spaced) = 129uH&lt;br&gt;<br /> Its a little overkill on the size &amp; inductance but it gives a lot of flexibility with short antennas.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Balun===<br /> The balun is based on a design by WB6ZQZ. His design appears to be a bifilar current balun in series with a quadrifilar voltage balun. We are only interested in the quadrifilar transformer because we will be using an external ferrite choke on the feedline (which allows us to use the choke for antenna configurations that don't use the voltage balun). Here is a link to instructions on how to wind the quadrifilar transformer:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> http://www.antennalaunchers.com/trb/photos.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Use 16ga enameled wire and a F-125-K toroid. Once the transformer is wound you can mount it on a small piece of plastic with holes drilled for the wires. Attach the wires to each other as per his schematic diagram and PC board photos.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mount the completed toroid into a 3x2x1 inch Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box. Install an SO-239 connector into the bottom of the box. For terminals I used (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts/nuts/wingnuts which are available at a home-improvement store. Label the terminals for Common, 50, 25, and 12 ohms. Attach a short piece of velcro to the back side which allows for mounting.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Antenna Mount &amp; Wire Spools===<br /> The antenna mount uses 1/4-20 hardware. I recommend replacing two of the nuts with wingnuts. Cut an 11 foot piece of Belden 8219 RG58A/U and loop it twice through two Laird LFB187102 ferrites as shown in the photo below. The coax fits tightly and we do not want to stretch it while pulling it through the ferrites so use a non-petroleum lubricant (I used cooking spray). Once this is done you can put UG-175/U reducers on the cable and solder a PL259 connector on each end.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_choke.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is spooled on a (2) Coleman 827E140T colthesline reels (thanks to Richard WA6KYR for finding these). Each Coleman reel comes with 21 feet of nylon cord. Pull all the cord out and cut off 13 feet so there is 8 feet remaining on the spool. Attach 59 1/2 feet of 22AWG insulated hookup wire to the end of the nylon cord. You can do this by stripping the end of the wire and pushing it through the middle of the nylon cord about 1/2 inch from the end, then secure the end of the nylon cord by lightly melting it with a lighter or soldering iron. Now you can reel in the wire. If it gets stuck you can open the reel with a 1/3 turn of the enclosure shell. Attach a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal to the end of the wire.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you are wondering why we use 59 1/2 feet it is because its the only length available that is reasonably close for loading at 75-80m and is not an even 1/2-wavelength multiple of any amateur band from 6m-40m (in fact we can go +/- 3 feet before bumping into one of these multiples. You should be able to roll this out to full length and tune any amateur band from 80m-6m. It also makes a good antenna to use with ALE and our RF-sensing tuner.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Battery===<br /> Each battery pack is made of (4) 40160S LiFePO4 cells (3.2V 16Ah) with a battery management circuit put into a Huggies wipe box.<br /> The battery management circuit sits on top of a plastic board which is an Akro-Mils 40150 (3.3 x 7.7 x 0.1 inch). Mount the batteries in the plastic holders, wire them in series with the bus bars, mount the battery management circuit, then wire it in. I recommend using a 30 amp fuse as pictured. Once this is done attach a 30A (12-14AWG) Powerpole connector with 12-gauge wire. The battery management circuit will charge the battery up to 14.2v before it automatically cuts off. The charger should be at least 14.6v.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each 40160S cell is rated at 3.65V (Max Charge), 3.2V (Nominal), and 2.0V (Discharge cut off).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Max charge current is 5C (80A) and max discharge current is 10C (160A).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cell life is rated at 2000 charge/discharge cycles under normal use.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete battery pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Data Interface===<br /> The data interface consists of audio isolation transformers, an RS232 level converter, and a PTT transistor. The audio circuit is per the &quot;KK7UQ Interface Model II&quot; circuit although I chose not to use the potentiometers and solid state relay in the original design. The original design and documentation can be found here:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://kk7uq.com/html/download/Manual2E.pdf<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The RS232 level converter is per a circuit attributed to OE1RIB.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I decided not to go with the Yaseu CT62 cable because I wanted the ability to use the DTR line for PTT (which is much cleaner for automated CW than keying with serial commands). Don't get me wrong here, I prefer a key, however flexibility was one of the design goals. I modified the level converter circuit to take power from the radio rather than trying to rob it from DTR/CTS with diodes. There is also a DPDT toggle switch on the back of the data interface which is an &quot;OFF&quot; switch (cuts the power from the radio and cuts the PTT line). I looked at off-the-shelf interfaces and most of them were either too big or required power for the audio circuitry.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Use a USB-serial converter if your computer doesn't have a serial port. I recommend using converters with the FTDI chipset for best performance and OS compatibility (I used USBG-RS232-F12 from usbgear.com).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the actual circuit I used to build the data interface:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to leave clearance for the jacks and switches when laying out the components on the PC board.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Velcro attachment<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Mounted to radio<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To connect the interface box to the radio I used a short piece of cat5 network cable wired like this&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT RD W-Br&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT TD W-G&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT + Br-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT GND G-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Data Out12 O-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data In W-Bl&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data PTT W-O&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data GND Bl-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The mini-din connectors go in very tight so beware of non-functioning or partial connections when you do this. Once you get them seated properly they work great and stay in place. Make sure to notch the back of the connector sleeves so the cables can exit at 90 degrees. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In the above photo you will also notice a connector/adapter contraption covered with electrical tape. These UHF right-angle adapters were used because the radio rests on its back side in the pack and we don't want the weight of the radio sitting on a PL259 connector and pinching the coax. All UHF right-angle adapters are not created equal. Most of them are garbage and use a small internal spring to connect the center conductor. The correct part to use is Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U. The adapter connecting the radio to the tuner is two of the Amphenol right-angle adapters connected with a short piece of LMR-600 with the center conductor diameter ground down from 0.176&quot; to 0.157&quot;. The length of the LMR600 and the mounting position of the tuner are critical because you don't want to obstruct the ports on the rear of the radio. As you can see in the photo below, this arrangement makes the back of the radio very compact which helps it fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_back.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Power Wiring===<br /> On the power supply you can add a third powerpole connector which is jumped to ground. When the third connector is also done on the radio side (connected to the radio brown wire) it forces the radio to 20W when plugged into the supply. This is good because our power supply is only rated for 7.5 amps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The power cable is 24 inches of 12-gauge red/black zipcord with a third wire for sensing low-power mode. Additionally it has a 16 inch length of zipcord for the tuner with a 2.5x5.5mm right-angle connector. As with the OEM cable, the 12-gauge cable splits off into two 14-gauge cables at the connector. You will notice that there are no fuses on this cable. I didn't bother because all my power sources for the pack are fused. In hindsight it would be prudent to put 30A fuses on both the positive and negative wires.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Third Powerpole connector for low power sense.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Connector end detail<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Monopod===<br /> The monopod is used to elevate the feedpoint of the dipole or a short vertical antenna. It is carbon fiber, weighs only 19oz, and extends to 68&quot;.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The monopod needs to be shortened to fit into the pack. Going around the perimeter of the small end rod, cut off the bottom half of the top rubber cap. This will allow the rod to collapse about an additional 1/2 inch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The bottom cap can be removed by pushing in the two roll pins with a small center punch. Then, with the rod fully collapsed, you will see there is about 13/16 inch you can saw off the big end without hitting the smaller rods that collapse inside of it. The photo below shows it after the cut.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Radio setup===<br /> Here is how I set mine up&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 7.000mhz<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to on.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 19&quot; (CAT Rate). Set it to 9600.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 29&quot; (CW Sidetone). Set it to 5.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 38&quot; (Dig Mode). Set it to PSK31-U.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 59&quot; (Mic Sel). Set it to RMT if you are using the MH-59A8J mic.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 86&quot; (TX IF Filter). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 2.3<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 50.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 144.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 20.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 446.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 10.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Enable 2.3kc filter for TX:<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push FUNC, rotate select to N, press 2.3 (above B key)<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ==Usage==<br /> The most basic setup is pulling the aluminum pack handle up one notch and attaching the mount/antenna. This can be used for a quick base setup or walking around with the pack on your back. The photo below shows the mount and 2m/70cm whip installed. If you want a somewhat useful counterpoise for 6m/2m/70cm without attaching the counterpoise wire, simply invert the feedline such that the chokes are by the radio instead of by the antenna. This way you can use the coax itself for a counterpoise. Its certainly not the best way to do it but it will work.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each aluminum rod is 18&quot; and you can use one of them by itself for a 2m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rods2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you use both rods with the 2m/70cm whip on top you will have a 6m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> You can use the monopod to elevate the a 6m/2m/70cm antenna. We use the carpal tunnel wrist strap to attach the monopod to the packs aluminum handle. The next photo looks like the leaning tower of Pisa because my first prototype was done with a medium-sized wrist strap. I have since moved to a small-sized strap which makes it stand much straighter. The monopod is good for 6m/2m/70cm verticals and for holding the feedpoint of a dipole. Do not use the monopod with the 8-foot antenna rod and/or the large loading coil as it gets too top heavy to remain stable. The following photo shows the ground radials installed and the choke ferrite near the antenna feedpoint. For a simpler setup you can skip the ground radials and invert the feedline (so the choke ferrites are near the radio) which will make the feedline act as a counterpoise. Yes I know this was said earlier in the article but its worth repeating.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_8.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Detail of antenna mount attached to the monopod pole<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_9.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The collapsible antenna by itself will work as a quarter-wave on 10m (pictured below) and should also tune up ok on 12m. It will work as a quarter-wave on 15m if you add the two aluminum extension rods.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Attaching the coil (tapped on the lowest turn) to the antenna base with the two aluminum rods above it will tune down to 80m. This configuration will have near zero efficiency however it will allow short-range communication on 75/80m while walking around with the pack on your back.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The best vertical configuration for 80m thru 17m is attaching the two rods to the base, putting the coil on top of the rods, then putting the collapsible aluminum antenna rod on top. It is best to tilt the pack over on its wheels and assemble the antenna on the ground.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once its assembled, tilt it up by lifting the aluminum arm on the pack. The weight of the batteries do a good job of keeping the antenna in place.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you want to try 160 meters you can remove the 8 foot whip and connect one of the 59-foot wire spools to the top of the coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a dipole configuration you can strap the balun to the top of the monopod and connect our spools of wire to it. Dipoles work best when they are at least 1/4 wave above the ground. Our feedpoint impedance will typically be much less than 50 ohms because in most cases we will be less than 1/4 wave off the ground. This will be especially noticeable on 40m/80m. Attach one wire to the &quot;C&quot; (common) balun terminal and attach the other wire to either the 12, 25, or 50 ohm terminal depending on which one works best. The wire spools use 3/8 ring terminals so we can optionally connect them directly to the vertical antenna mount if you want to feed a dipole directly without the balun.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One other important thing to note about dipoles is its best to keep the ends up off the ground. There is 8 feet of nylon rope at the end of the spools which can help in getting your wire somewhere it can be secured. In my pack I also keep short plastic tent stakes and short bungee cords which can help in some situations.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_10.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> There are a few other odds &amp; ends I keep in the pack. The PL-259 center to ring terminal adapter is for using the voltage balun with the vertical antenna. The Powerpole &quot;Y&quot; cable is for running the AC adapter or solar charger while using the radio. The short 3/8-24 bolt is for attaching a dipole wire directly to the antenna mount or to the top of the coil. There are also two 8-foot stereo cables for the data adapter and a 10-foot serial cable (not pictured). (I chose 8-10' cables to keep the computer RF a little ways away from the radio/antenna). At the bottom is the usb/serial adapter and on the bottom right are short velcro cable ties for attaching the feedline to the monopole and/or aluminum pack handle.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_misc.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is how it all fits into the pack<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_11.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete pack with both batteries and the computer weighs 35 lbs.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The weight can be substantially reduced by removing the spare battery, AC adapter, computer (if you don't need it), and any antenna parts you don't plan on using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In case you are wondering where the CW key/paddles are, I'm still working on finding a solution that works well with this portable setup.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Two that have been recommended are the Mini Paddle from Milestone Technologies and the Traveler Light from Begali.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Parts &amp; Prices==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> $799 FT857D w/YSK857<br /> $95 TCXO-9<br /> $82 MH-59A8J DTMF mic (also needed for direct freq entry)<br /> <br /> $120 W4RT2.3khz ssb filter<br /> $169 Z-11pro2<br /> <br /> $14 IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter (ebay)<br /> $2 bridge rectifier KBPC5010 (ebay)<br /> <br /> old: $144 (8) 16ah 40160s lifepo4 $24/ea (bmsbattery.com or manzanitamicro.com)<br /> new: $144 (8) 15ah 40152s lifepo4 $24/ea (evassemble.com)<br /> $3 (8) 40152S or 40160S battery holders 0.40/ea<br /> $4 (8) 40152S or 40160S bus bar connectors 0.50/ea<br /> $80 battery shipping<br /> <br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> <br /> $97 (2) 30A Battery Management PCB http://www.batteryspace.com/pcbprotectioncircuitmodulefor4cells128vlifepo4batterypackat30alimited.aspx<br /> <br /> $11 USB to serial converter http://www.usbgear.com/computer_cable_details.cfm?sku=USBG-RS232-F12&amp;cats=199&amp;catid=482%2C199%2C601%2C461<br /> <br /> $8 3/8X24 Thread Mirror Mount: Wilson 901104<br /> $5 (20') Belden 8219 (RG58A/U) <br /> $3 (4) Amphenol 83-185-RFX (UG-175 reducer)<br /> $20 (4) Amphenol 83-822 (PL259)<br /> $10 shipping (theantennafarm.com)<br /> <br /> $79 Jansport Driver 8 TN89-008 UPC 757969203361 Wheeled Backpack (buy.com)<br /> <br /> $6 dual-band (2/440) whip with 3/8x24 mount (hamstick EDBW-1, Opek DB-1, or Workman DB-1) <br /> $4 (2) WORKKW2000A or CONXPARTSA (this is the power cord and connector pins)<br /> $3 (6 feet) Red &amp; Black DC wire 12 GA<br /> $9 shipping (k1cra.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (3') LMR-600 (showmecables.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 nuts (7/16&quot; head)<br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts<br /> $2 (8) 1/4&quot;-20 wingnuts<br /> $9 (10') 4&quot; drainpipe (we need one 7 3/4&quot; piece)<br /> $4 (2) 4&quot; drainpipe cap (home depot)<br /> <br /> $20 (5) littelfuse FHA30 12AWG inline fuse holder<br /> $3 (1) 5-pack of ATO 7.5 fuse (drillspot.com)<br /> <br /> $3 4' 14 gauge cable (for short part of radio power connector) (.62/ft)<br /> $1 4' 18 gauge cable (for battery sense +/- to pcb, low power wire on power cable) (.31/ft)<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (22-18) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $4 (1) 1/4&quot; (16-14) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (12-10) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $10 shipping (parts-express.com)<br /> <br /> (1) DB9F mouser 156-1309 0.80<br /> (4) BC546A mouser 512-BC546A 0.10<br /> (2) 5.6k 1/4w mouser 588-OD562JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (3) 10k 1/4w mouser 588-OD103JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (1) 3.5mm 3-pin plug (cw) (2 wires used) mouser 568-NYS231BG 1.69 (for cw jack)<br /> (1) 8-pin mini-din (cat) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2608 1.49<br /> (1) 6-pin mini-din (data) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2606 1.36<br /> (2) 600ohm 1:1 transformer mouser 42TL016-RC 1.66<br /> (2) 51 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD510JE 0.42<br /> (1) 1uf cap mouser 5989-100V1.0-F 0.71<br /> (1) .0047uf cap mouser 140-50P5-472K-RC 50v ceramic disc 0.12<br /> (1) 100 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD101JE 0.42 carbon comp 5%<br /> (1) 1k 1/4w mouser 588-OD102JE 0.42<br /> (1) board mouser 854-PR1593K $4.10 2.6 x 2.6<br /> (1) box mouser 546-1593KBK $2.88 (box is 2.6 x 2.6 x 1.1)<br /> (2) 2.2k resistor 1/2w carbon comp 5% mouser 588-OF222JE (1/4w mouser 588-OD222JE 0.42 not avail)<br /> (4) PL259 right angle Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U Mouser 523-83-1AP $14.70/ea<br /> (1) 2.5x5.5mm right angle plug (24AWG) power plug for tuner mouser 171-3216-EX $1.04/ea<br /> (2) ferrites - mouser 875-LFB187102-000 3.03/ea 3/4&quot; OD .400&quot; ID 1.125&quot; long (3 turns RG58 = 1000 ohm impedance @ 1-5mhz)<br /> (2) mouser 526-WH22-00-100 100' 22awg copper 7-strand hookup wire black nteinc.com $19 (use p/n 03-100 for orange) insulation OD 0.060&quot;<br /> (2) 3.5mm stereo jacks 502-35RAPC3BV4 2.73<br /> $112 total<br /> $12 shipping (mouser.com)<br /> <br /> $8 (1) 14-pack 3/8 ring terminal 16-14AWG (JT&amp;T 2011H - amazon.com)<br /> $18 (2) 8ft 3.5mm stereo cables (mediabridge - amazon.com)<br /> $3 21/64 (.3281&quot;) drill bit for 3/8-24 threads (amazon.com)<br /> $28 3' Aluminum 6061-T6 Seamless Round Tubing, WW-T 700/6, 1/2&quot; OD, 1/4&quot; ID, 1/8&quot; Wall, 36&quot; Length (amazon.com)<br /> $65 Opteka CFM300 68&quot; 5 Section 8x Carbon Fiber Monopod (amazon.com)<br /> $209 (1) PowerFilm F15-1200 20W solar panel 10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6 1 lb (amazon.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (4) EZ-Hook XM (digi-key 461-1004-ND)<br /> <br /> $2 Akro-Mils plastic dividers (Akro-Mils 40150 wasserstrom.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (8) 3/8-24 Jam Nuts 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (2) 3/8-24 Hex Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $10 (5) 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (10) 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer 316 Stainless Steel<br /> $7 shipping (fastener-warehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $7 (5') 1/4&quot; schedule 80 PVC pipe (usplastic.com)<br /> <br /> $14 (2) coleman 827E140T colthesline reel (coleman.com)<br /> <br /> $58 AT-271A/PRC antenna (ebay) OR $58 Voile Tourlight Avalanche Probe (8 foot) (voile-usa.com)<br /> Alternatively there are threaded snow probes at: http://us-warehouse.genuineguidegear.com/collections/probes/products/solid-probes<br /> <br /> $2 (2) 6&quot; tent stakes (rei.com)<br /> $2 (1) 4-pack of 10&quot; bungee cords (rei.com)<br /> $8 tax/shipping (rei.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) F-125-K Toroid Core 1.25&quot; 250-300 permeability low loss ferrite 1-30 mhz (theaudioguru.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (1) 1/4 lb Wire, 16ga (0.05&quot;) enameled (we need 4 feet for toroid) (allspectrum.com or jameco.com)<br /> <br /> $20 (1) 79-87283 DonJoy COMFORTFORM WRIST support-Small right (expressorthopedics.com - warning, it takes them a month to ship it)<br /> <br /> $8 Cables To Go 52030 - 6ft DB9 M/F All Lines Extension Cable Black (nextwarehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) 85085K8 25-pack nylon edge trim .065 gap width 3/16 opening, 15/64 height, 12 3/4 long<br /> $23 (1) 8871K71 80' (1 lb) spool .064&quot; (14ga) tin coated copper wire (spool says Arcor 14AWG)<br /> $2 (1) 91187A202 1.5&quot; 5/16-18 RHT stainless stud (or you can order a 10-pack for $4.55 with part number 95412A587)<br /> $10 (2) 95412A659 5-pack of 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud<br /> $9 tax/shipping (mcmaster.com)<br /> <br /> ==========<br /> $2518 approximate cost<br /> <br /> <br /> $? (1) stickyback velcro (attach tuner to radio mount)<br /> <br /> $? (1) velcro wire ties (attach coax to antenna mast)<br /> <br /> $? (1) 3/8-24 tap<br /> $? (1) 5/16-18 tap<br /> $? (1) Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box (for balun) 3x2x1&quot;<br /> <br /> $? (4) 30A (12-14AWG) red/black powerpole connector (1 for radio, 2 for batteries, 1 for AC/DC power supply)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==More Information==<br /> Here are some websites with great ideas for building backpack radios:<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://ec1cw.blogspot.com/2012/12/my-ft-857d-manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/321107979094<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_22/665730_Build_your_own_HF_manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://hfpack.com/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://pinztrek.com/radio/hfpack/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.dbbear.com/k0emt/projant/hfpack/</div> Sun, 05 Nov 2017 15:46:58 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:W7KI_Manpack_Radio http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/W7KI_Manpack_Radio <p>Rich:&#32;</p> <hr /> <div>[[File:FT857_and_tuner_in_pack.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;This article details how I set up a HF/VHF/UHF manpack radio.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> ==Overview==<br /> ===Design goals===<br /> Radio RF Output:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Minimum of 20W, preferable to have optional 50W+ available if needed<br /> Radio Frequency coverage:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : HF, 6 meters, 2 meters, and 70cm<br /> Radio Modes:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : FM/SSB/CW/PSK<br /> Radio receive current:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : preferably less than 700mA<br /> Tuner:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : 10-500ohm minimum, preferable little to no idle current<br /> Battery:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : sufficient to handle a weekend without recharging<br /> Power:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Battery, AC, or solar&lt;br&gt;<br /> Antenna:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Vertical or dipole with optional voltage balun<br /> PC:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Small netbook capable of digital modes<br /> Size:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Everything fits within a pack suitable for airplane carry-on (21x14x10&quot;).<br /> All items:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Weight as minimal as possible !<br /> Cost:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : $2500 neighborhood<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Radio===<br /> Here is a quick rundown of the radios I considered:&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Military radios==== <br /> : I looked at the PRC-104, PRC-132, PRC-138, PRC-320, PRC-1099, PRC-2000, and AEG SE-6861.<br /> : All of them are good radios. Only problem is I want HF/6/2/440 so I'm stuck<br /> : with looking at amateur radios.<br /> <br /> ====Vertex VX-1210====<br /> : This is a commercial radio ($1400+, 7.1lb w/batt, rx: 500mA, tx: 3A/5W, 5A/20W)<br /> : Very tempting but is HF only. Has option for internal autotuner and can be<br /> : set up for VFO operation. Battery is 14.4v 4AH.<br /> <br /> ====Mobat Micom 3 Pathfinder====<br /> : This is a 25W commercial radio. Excessive cost for this project. Otherwise a great radio !<br /> <br /> ====Outback radios (QMAC, Barrett, Codan)====<br /> : QMAC HF90 excessive cost &amp; no longer made, Barrett 940 too heavy (18.5lbs w/tuner battery)<br /> : Barrett 2040, Codan 2110 excessive cost.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-817ND====<br /> : Portable amateur radio ($600, 2.6lb, 8-16v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 2A/5W)<br /> : Tempting, and would pair nicely with the LDG Z-817 or Elecraft T1 tuner.<br /> : Only problem is I want 20W+. This could be accomplished with a Tokyo High Power HL-45B<br /> : amp ($400, 3.4 lbs, 8.5A/45W, 160-6m) + LDG Z-817H tuner.<br /> : This is a viable combination and has the benefit of low RX current.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC703+====<br /> : Amateur radio (discontinued, 4.4lb, 9-15.8v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 3A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Nice radio, big and easily readable display, built in autotuner. Wish it did 2m/440<br /> : like its bigger brother (IC-706).<br /> <br /> ====Elecraft KX3====<br /> : Portable amateur radio (new to market, 1.5lb, 8-14v(?), rx: 150-???mA, tx: ?A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Great display and control layout located on what would normally be considered the &quot;top&quot;<br /> : of the radio which gives ample room compared to other radios. Built in autotuner. CW paddles<br /> : right on front of the radio. I would have liked to see a little more than 10W however its<br /> : certainly a reasonable and usable amount of power (and better than 5W). Has option for <br /> : an external KXPA100 100W amp and KXAT100 tuner. Overall it is an exciting product and I <br /> : probably would have bought one if I wasn't looking to have 2m/440 in the same radio.<br /> : I don't know if it supports CTCSS for 10m FM repeaters and CTCSS/DCS for 6m FM repeaters.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC706MK2G====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 5.5lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1800-2000mA, tx: 20A/100W)<br /> : RX current way too high, VHF frontend easily overloads. Nice display as with the IC703<br /> : above. The RX current is a deal breaker for battery ops. <br /> <br /> ====Icom IC7000====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($1200, 5.1lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1300-1600mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : Nice radio. RX current better than IC706 but still a little on the high side for battery ops.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-897D====<br /> : Mobile/portable amateur radio ($900, 8.6lb, 11.7-15.9v, rx: 600-1000mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : HF/50 MHz:5 watts = 4.0-4.7 amps 10 watts = 5.3-6.4 amps 25 watts = 7.3-9.2 amps 50 watts = 10.6-12.9 amps<br /> : 144 MHz: 5 watts = 3.4 amps 10 watts = 4.2 amps 25 watts = 6.3 amps 50 watts = 9.4 amps<br /> : 420 MHz: 5 watts = 4.2 amps 10 watts = 5.6 amps 20 watts = 8.7 amps<br /> :<br /> : Designed for field ops and has room for internal batteries (13.2v, 9AH) however the batteries<br /> : add an additional 6.5lbs to a radio which is already heavy at 8.6lbs. One option is to run your<br /> : own external battery which gives you room to install an internal 120V power supply. Overall<br /> : I really like this radio but its ruggedness will cost you in weight. You can get the FT-857D<br /> : (sacrificing the 897's rugged case and internal battery space) and save 4lbs on your back.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-857D====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 4.6lb, 12.4-15.2v,<br /> : rx: 600-1000mA (spec) 650-700mA (green/red backlight) 590mA (backlight off)<br /> : tx: 2A/5W 5A/15W 22A/100W)<br /> : Unlike the FT-897D above, this radio does not come with a TCXO. By the time you spend $100 on<br /> : the TCXO you end up with about the same radio as the FT-897D for the same price. Comparing the<br /> : FT-857D to the FT-897D has some pluses: 4lbs lighter, detachable head, and easier to mount mobile.<br /> : The minuses are we don't get the rugged case and battery space. I don't think either of these<br /> : minuses will matter as the radio and batteries will end up in a pack. One other thing to note is<br /> : both the 857 and 897 will automatically limit the radio to 20W when running on battery power<br /> : (by grounding the brown wire on the power connector).<br /> : Spec says voltage is 12.4-15.2, manual says 11.73-15.87.<br /> : The 857's signal will start sounding bad at about 11.75v.<br /> <br /> Given everything above it came down to deciding between the FT-857D and FT-897D.&lt;br&gt;<br /> I chose the FT-857D because its 4lbs lighter than the FT-897D. Every pound counts when backpacking !&lt;br&gt;<br /> The radio is best equipped with: tcxo-9, keypad mic, (2) W4RT/inrad.net filters.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Tuner===<br /> For honorable mention we have the long-discontinued Kenwood AT-130 which is a very small 80-10m(+WARC)&lt;br&gt;<br /> manual tuner (6 x 2.4 x 6.3 inches, 3.5 lbs.). For field ops I prefer a small autotuner. Yaesu makes the&lt;br&gt;<br /> FC-30 ($170, 17-150 ohms, 3.1 x 1.8 x 10.2 in, 2.2 lbs) however its 17-150 ohm tuning range is quite&lt;br&gt;<br /> narrow compared to the LDG product line.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the breakdown of the LDG products I looked at. All of them have latching relays.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> : $200 LDG YT-100 for 857/897 100w 4-800 ohm 7 x 7 x 2 1.5lbs<br /> : $200 LDG AT-897+ for 857/897 100w 6-800 ohm 11.5 x 3.25 x 1.5 2.0lbs<br /> : $160 Z100+ ? 125w 6-800 ohm 5.5 x 5.5 x 1.5 1 lb w/o batts<br /> : $170 Z11pro2 6-1000 ohm 7.7 x 5.0 x 1.5 1.5lb w/o batts<br /> &lt;br&gt; <br /> I ended up going with the Z11pro2 as it can autotune based on RF sense which keeps the CAT and ACC ports free. This is good because we&lt;br&gt;<br /> need both ports for our data interface. Another bonus of RF sense tuning is it makes the radio PC-ALE capable provided the antenna is&lt;br&gt;<br /> tunable on whatever ALE frequencies are to be used.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device on the left is the data/soundcard interface&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[File:FT857_and_tuner.jpg]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Battery===<br /> The following text describes how to build a battery pack. If you do not want to build this battery pack then you can buy one already built. For example you can look up &quot;ZIPPY Flightmax 8400mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack&quot; which currently sells for about $75. You will need to find a suitable charger for it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> I initially considered using 11 Accupower NiMH low-discharge &quot;D&quot; cells (10aH, 1.25v, 145g ea.)&lt;br&gt;<br /> This would give us 13.75v, 10aH at 3.5lb for about $110.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After more research I went with (8) 40160S LiFePO4 batteries (16AH/ea). This project really only needs 4 of these<br /> batteries however I opted to build two battery packs. 4 of these batteries in series gives you around 13 volts.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The 40160S 16AH battery is no longer being sold. The manufacturer has replaced it with the 40152S 15AH battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Paired with each battery pack is a circuit which protects from overcharge/overdischarge/overcurrent. It also keeps the batteries balanced<br /> while charging. After a long search for a suitable lightweight container I found the 4-battery pack fits perfectly into a &quot;Huggies&quot;<br /> baby wipe plastic box. I cut a small slot in the box for a short piece of velcro which holds the lid closed. The complete pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If you intend on taking your backpack radio on a commercial aircraft, keep in mind there are restrictions on high capacity lithium ion batteries. If you believe this will be a problem you can build a pack from 11 NiMH D cells or use a pre-made NiMH RC pack. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Notice the top door works great for the powerpole.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is a view of the internals. The protection circuit board is on the top.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The AC adapter/charger===<br /> I wanted enough beef for the radio to do 20W off the adapter. I ended up getting IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter<br /> for about $14 off ebay. It is relatively small and weighs 0.4 lb. I run it through a bridge rectifier which reduces the voltage to 14.8V which is suitable for operating the radio and charging the battery pack. Of course running DC through a bridge rectifier only uses two of the four diodes however it was an inexpensive solution which is much easier than standalone diodes to mount to the cable/fuse.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I found that the battery pack can draw up to 8A during charging so I used a 10A fuse on the power supply. Yes, I know the power supply is only rated at 7.5A and putting a 10A fuse on it is not good practice. So far it hasn't been a problem. During charging the bridge rectifier can get quite hot so make sure it is on a non-flammable surface. The obvious solution to all this would be a series current limiting resistor which is something I'll look into when I get the time.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> For now I am charging the battery pack with a small smart charger (Noco Genius G3500) which is set for a standard 12V battery at a 3.5A charge rate. It just so happens that its output voltage on this setting is just right for charging the LiFePO4 battery. The Noco Genius is a handy little charger as it is also good for charging and topping off car batteries, AGM batteries, 12V 7AH brick batteries, etc. and it will float the batteries without overcharging them. Another nice thing about this charger is its small enough to fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ac_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Solar Panel===<br /> PowerFilm F15-1200 20W (10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6&quot; 1 lb )&lt;br&gt;<br /> Nice compact and light panel but a little pricey at $10/watt. I would have gone with their 30W panel but it was even more overpriced.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the solar panel<br /> [[File:W7ki_solar_panel.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Computer===<br /> EEEPC 1000h. Small battery-efficient netbook with 10&quot; screen. Used it because I had it on hand. Any netbook would probably do ok so<br /> long as it has mic/headphone jacks. One bonus of this particular computer is you can feed it 12VDC direct.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the computer<br /> [[File:W7ki_netbook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Data Interface===<br /> Homemade. Nothing fancy, just some audio isolation transformers, a level converter, and a PTT transistor.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The data interface and the tuner are attached to the mobile mounting bracket with velcro. Note how the mobile bracket is angled such that the front of the tuner is slightly elevated. This was done to give some clearance to the radio speaker and also helps to direct the audio out of the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_data_interface1.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Antenna===<br /> I looked at a variety of compact antennas (Outbacker Joey, Outbacker Stealth Plus, ATX-W38 walkabout, ATX-DHP, and a handful<br /> of others). It was difficult to find anything that would collapse to under 18 inches (requirement for the pack I'm using). It was probably just as well<br /> since many &quot;portable&quot; antennas are helical which I personally despise.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My original intent was to buy a &quot;Buddi&quot; product and evaluate how it worked in a vertical configuration. The only issue was whether their 80 meter coil would fit in the pack. I emailed them multiple times asking the dimensions of the coil but unfortunately all of my emails were ignored. This probably speaks volumes as to how they handle issues after a sale so I thought it best not to do business with them until their customer communication improves.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Of all the pre-made antennas I found two that appear to be worthwhile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One is the SuperAntenna MP1B SuperStick which is a good solution as it collapses to 12 inches and weighs under 2 pounds. When I first wrote this article their company had no products available which I believe was due to a transition in ownership. Their products are now available again and I plan on trying one out. I would buy the MP1B antenna, TM1 mount, and optionally MC60 coil for 60 meters and MC80 coil for 80 meters. A properly adjusted SuperAntenna requires no tuner however you need to use a correct length ground radial. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In June 2015 SuperAntenna released the MP1R SuperStick with a flexible whip.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The other is the JPC-7 product line which can be found at http://www.108mhz.com/ham-antenna-c-59.html or on ebay. All three versions of the JPC-7 are lightweight and collapse to a small size.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you choose not to purchase a pre-made antenna, the text past this point describes an antenna/coil that you can build.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I ended up using a military AT271-A/PRC antenna. It is a 7 section antenna with a 3/8-24 base that extends to 113.5 inches and collapses to 17 inches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> It has an optional 8 inch spring (AB-129/PR) which I am not currently using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:At271a.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As an alternative I found an 8.5' collapsible aluminum pole made for measuring snowpacks and after some tinkering it worked like a charm. There is a threaded version which may work better (listed at the end of this article in the Parts Sources section).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pole_antenna.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Either of these antennas is very usable on HF when paired with a couple of 18&quot; aluminum extender rods and a large tapped coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_big_coil.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> Obviously running a huge coil with a short antenna is about as worthless as a short helical so its important to remember to use as much whip or longwire as you can if you<br /> are less than 1/4 wave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a horizontal option I built a tapped voltage balun which attaches to a vertical extension arm and connects to two spools of wire.<br /> [[File:W7ki_horiz_setup.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;The wire spools can also be used as a counterpoise for vertical configurations.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the bottom is a carbon fiber camera monopod which we use as a vertical extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the top is a carpal tunnel wrist strap which is used for attaching the monopod extension arm to the pack aluminum extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is wound on Coleman camping clothesline spools.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Another HF antenna option is to build the St. Louis Vertical: http://www.amqrp.org/projects/stluisvert/STLV%20Project.html&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For VHF/UHF I have a 17&quot; dual-band antenna. For VHF only you can also put one of the 18&quot; aluminum rods onto the 1&quot; antenna mount.&lt;br&gt;<br /> 6 meters can be done with the 17&quot; antenna on top of both 18&quot; rods.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Pack===<br /> I looked at dozens of packs before settling on the Jansport Driver 8. Most other packs were either oversized and/or too heavy.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My reasoning for a 21x14x10&quot; size limit is so you can carry this on a commercial airplane if you are traveling. You certainly wouldn't want<br /> to check this as luggage as it would probably get destroyed by handling or stolen.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Two main things I liked about the Driver 8 are the wheels and the telescoping arm. The telescoping arm is wonderful because it is very sturdy<br /> aluminum which allows you to securely attach an antenna to it. This is great for manpack operations if you want the antenna up while you are<br /> walking around with the pack on your back. It also works great for fixed operations as the pack itself can be used as an antenna base.<br /> The wheels not only give your back a break where smooth surfaces are available, they also give you the ability to easily lay down the pack when assembling a long antenna. Its like having a mini fold over tower.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The wheels are inline skate wheels and have a very low ground clearance. It will roll fine inside buildings or on a paved sidewalk. The wheels will not work on a trail. This is unfortunate as it is much easier to pull 35 lbs on wheels than to heft it on your back. One possible solution to this is to run a 1/2 inch rod (or thread stock?) along the bottom of the pack and install a pair of 10&quot; x 1.75 lightweight plastic wheels. I would use Martin Wheel part number 110 wheels because they come with metal ball bearings.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:w7ki_pack_radio.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Construction and Setup==<br /> A complete materials and sources list is at the end of this article.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Extension Rods and Antenna===<br /> To make the aluminum extension rods you need a 3 foot piece of aluminum rod. Cut the rod into 3 pieces, 2 of them will be 17 inches long and the third piece will be the remaining 2 inches.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take a 21/64 inch drill bit and drill about 1.5 inches into both ends of the 17 inch rods. Be careful to drill straight. Once this is done tap threads into both ends with a 3/8-24 tap. Tapping threads into aluminum generates a tremendous amount of heat so remember to tap slowly and use an oil lubricant. Right after tapping these rods I bumped one of them with my arm and got a very nasty burn.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the tapping is done thread a 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud into both ends of the rods. Then, for each rod, put a 3/8-24 jam nut over the stud on one end and put a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut over the stud on the other end. When you are done it should look like the picture below.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> This section deals with constructing the antenna if you chose not to buy an AT-271 antenna:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now grab the remaining 2 inch piece of aluminum rod. Drill one end 1 inch deep with a size F (.2443 inch) bit then drill the other end 1 inch deep with the 21/64 inch drill bit you used for the other rods. Tap 5/16-18 threads into the size F end and 3/8-24 threads into the 21/64 end.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take the aluminum snowpack pole, remove the lanyard string, push in the lower release spring button and shove it up the tube a couple inches, and tap the bottom for 5/16-18 threads. The two photos below show the start and finish of tapping the threads. I seriously do not recommend using vise-grips as shown in the photos. The antenna deforms very easily. It would be much better to lightly use a vise which can distribute the grip better with much less crush force. Again, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CRUSH OR DEFORM THE TUBE. I darn near destroyed the prototype using vise-grips.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Next we take a 1.5 inch 5/16-18 stud and thread half of it into the antenna. This is generally difficult to do so I recommend tightening two 5/16-18 nuts against each other onto the stud and use the outer nut with a wrench. Once the stud is threaded into the antenna you can thread the 2 inch aluminum rod onto the stud, then thread a 3/8-24 stud into the other end of the rod. Put a 3/8-24 jam nut onto the exposed threads. What you have done here is built a 5/16-18 to 3/8-24 thread adapter. The photo below shows what the finished product should look like.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rod_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The next step is to modify the antenna to make it conductive. The anodized surfaces do not conduct electricity so you need to take some sandpaper and sand out the inside of the bottom of each rod (about 3/4 inch should do). Another issue is the tapered inserts which are crimped into the top of the rods. These don't conduct either so you need to lightly bond them with an arc weld. This should be done with a MIG or TIG welder. Remember to sand the surfaces first, including the entire tapered section. I cheesed mine by using two truck batteries, a pair of jumper cables, and some real thin aluminum wire. Some people refer to this as hillbilly arc welding. Please don't do this unless you know the risks, know what you are doing, and you are using appropriate eye protection. Verify the end to end continuity of the antenna with an ohmmeter when you are done. Here is what mine looked like when it was done.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_hillbilly_weld.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The final step is to flatten out the pointed tip of the antenna rod. You can do this with a grinder or file.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Coil===<br /> The coil is made from a 7 3/4 inch piece of 4 inch diameter drainpipe with a drainpipe cap on each end. To make room for more coil turns we cut 1 3/8 inch off the end of the drainpipe cap. You need to cut two end caps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Locate the center of each cap, tap the center with a center punch or nail, drill a 1/8&quot; pilot hole, then drill in again with a 3/8&quot; bit.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now we take a piece of 1/4 inch schedule 80 pvc pipe and drill/tap it for 3/8-24 threads the same way you did the aluminum rods (except please don't use lubricating oil). Its important to use schedule 80 pipe as it has the correct inside diameter for tapping threads. The pipe should be about 7 1/2 inches long and later you might have to make some slight length adjustments for fit. Once your threads are tapped you can thread a 1.5 inch 3/8-24 stud into each end then put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer over the end (see photo below). Put one end into an end cap, put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer on the outside of the end cap, stack one 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal on top of the washer, and secure it with a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut stacked on top of the ring terminal.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Put the other end cap on. On the outside stack a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer, a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal, and a 3/8-24 jam nut.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to cover up any holes in the drainpipe with a square of duct tape.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To make the coil, glue 4 pieces of .065 Nylon Edge Trim as shown in the photo (credit to Phil AD5X for finding this edge trim). When cutting them to length, remember to offset each one to correctly accommodate a spirally-wound coil. Once this is done, drill a .065&quot; diagonal hole from the edge of the cap through the top of each cap (see photo), thread the wire through the hole and wind the coil with .064&quot; (14AWG) tin coated copper wire. Remember to keep tension on the coil or else it will wind loosely. The wire is stiff and doesn't come off the coil perfectly so there will be some manual coil alignment/straightening to do after the coil is wound. Once the coil is wound, put the ends thorough the 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminals, then cut &amp; solder. Be careful of heat damage to the plastic while soldering. Its usually best to loosen the end nuts prior to soldering as it will conduct less heat away from the ring terminals.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_end.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The coil tap is an EZ-Hook XM attached to a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal with an 11 inch piece of 22-gauge 7-strand insulated hookup wire. Attach the ring terminal above the coil ring terminal as shown in the photo.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_tap.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The EZ-Hook XM works great for 17AWG wire however its a little small for our 14AWG coil. The hook can be slightly adjusted with needlenose pliers to fit the 14AWG wire. The picture below shows the modified hook profile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ezhook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As built, the coil specs out like this: 7&quot; length, 4.25&quot; dia, 50 turns, 14ga .063 (spaced) = 129uH&lt;br&gt;<br /> Its a little overkill on the size &amp; inductance but it gives a lot of flexibility with short antennas.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Balun===<br /> The balun is based on a design by WB6ZQZ. His design appears to be a bifilar current balun in series with a quadrifilar voltage balun. We are only interested in the quadrifilar transformer because we will be using an external ferrite choke on the feedline (which allows us to use the choke for antenna configurations that don't use the voltage balun). Here is a link to instructions on how to wind the quadrifilar transformer:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> http://www.antennalaunchers.com/trb/photos.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Use 16ga enameled wire and a F-125-K toroid. Once the transformer is wound you can mount it on a small piece of plastic with holes drilled for the wires. Attach the wires to each other as per his schematic diagram and PC board photos.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mount the completed toroid into a 3x2x1 inch Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box. Install an SO-239 connector into the bottom of the box. For terminals I used (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts/nuts/wingnuts which are available at a home-improvement store. Label the terminals for Common, 50, 25, and 12 ohms. Attach a short piece of velcro to the back side which allows for mounting.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Antenna Mount &amp; Wire Spools===<br /> The antenna mount uses 1/4-20 hardware. I recommend replacing two of the nuts with wingnuts. Cut an 11 foot piece of Belden 8219 RG58A/U and loop it twice through two Laird LFB187102 ferrites as shown in the photo below. The coax fits tightly and we do not want to stretch it while pulling it through the ferrites so use a non-petroleum lubricant (I used cooking spray). Once this is done you can put UG-175/U reducers on the cable and solder a PL259 connector on each end.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_choke.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is spooled on a (2) Coleman 827E140T colthesline reels (thanks to Richard WA6KYR for finding these). Each Coleman reel comes with 21 feet of nylon cord. Pull all the cord out and cut off 13 feet so there is 8 feet remaining on the spool. Attach 59 1/2 feet of 22AWG insulated hookup wire to the end of the nylon cord. You can do this by stripping the end of the wire and pushing it through the middle of the nylon cord about 1/2 inch from the end, then secure the end of the nylon cord by lightly melting it with a lighter or soldering iron. Now you can reel in the wire. If it gets stuck you can open the reel with a 1/3 turn of the enclosure shell. Attach a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal to the end of the wire.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you are wondering why we use 59 1/2 feet it is because its the only length available that is reasonably close for loading at 75-80m and is not an even 1/2-wavelength multiple of any amateur band from 6m-40m (in fact we can go +/- 3 feet before bumping into one of these multiples. You should be able to roll this out to full length and tune any amateur band from 80m-6m. It also makes a good antenna to use with ALE and our RF-sensing tuner.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Battery===<br /> Each battery pack is made of (4) 40160S LiFePO4 cells (3.2V 16Ah) with a battery management circuit put into a Huggies wipe box.<br /> The battery management circuit sits on top of a plastic board which is an Akro-Mils 40150 (3.3 x 7.7 x 0.1 inch). Mount the batteries in the plastic holders, wire them in series with the bus bars, mount the battery management circuit, then wire it in. I recommend using a 30 amp fuse as pictured. Once this is done attach a 30A (12-14AWG) Powerpole connector with 12-gauge wire. The battery management circuit will charge the battery up to 14.2v before it automatically cuts off. The charger should be at least 14.6v.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each 40160S cell is rated at 3.65V (Max Charge), 3.2V (Nominal), and 2.0V (Discharge cut off).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Max charge current is 5C (80A) and max discharge current is 10C (160A).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cell life is rated at 2000 charge/discharge cycles under normal use.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete battery pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Data Interface===<br /> The data interface consists of audio isolation transformers, an RS232 level converter, and a PTT transistor. The audio circuit is per the &quot;KK7UQ Interface Model II&quot; circuit although I chose not to use the potentiometers and solid state relay in the original design. The original design and documentation can be found here:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://kk7uq.com/html/download/Manual2E.pdf<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The RS232 level converter is per a circuit attributed to OE1RIB.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I decided not to go with the Yaseu CT62 cable because I wanted the ability to use the DTR line for PTT (which is much cleaner for automated CW than keying with serial commands). Don't get me wrong here, I prefer a key, however flexibility was one of the design goals. I modified the level converter circuit to take power from the radio rather than trying to rob it from DTR/CTS with diodes. There is also a DPDT toggle switch on the back of the data interface which is an &quot;OFF&quot; switch (cuts the power from the radio and cuts the PTT line). I looked at off-the-shelf interfaces and most of them were either too big or required power for the audio circuitry.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Use a USB-serial converter if your computer doesn't have a serial port. I recommend using converters with the FTDI chipset for best performance and OS compatibility (I used USBG-RS232-F12 from usbgear.com).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the actual circuit I used to build the data interface:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to leave clearance for the jacks and switches when laying out the components on the PC board.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Velcro attachment<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Mounted to radio<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To connect the interface box to the radio I used a short piece of cat5 network cable wired like this&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT RD W-Br&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT TD W-G&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT + Br-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT GND G-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Data Out12 O-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data In W-Bl&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data PTT W-O&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data GND Bl-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The mini-din connectors go in very tight so beware of non-functioning or partial connections when you do this. Once you get them seated properly they work great and stay in place. Make sure to notch the back of the connector sleeves so the cables can exit at 90 degrees. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In the above photo you will also notice a connector/adapter contraption covered with electrical tape. These UHF right-angle adapters were used because the radio rests on its back side in the pack and we don't want the weight of the radio sitting on a PL259 connector and pinching the coax. All UHF right-angle adapters are not created equal. Most of them are garbage and use a small internal spring to connect the center conductor. The correct part to use is Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U. The adapter connecting the radio to the tuner is two of the Amphenol right-angle adapters connected with a short piece of LMR-600 with the center conductor diameter ground down from 0.176&quot; to 0.157&quot;. The length of the LMR600 and the mounting position of the tuner are critical because you don't want to obstruct the ports on the rear of the radio. As you can see in the photo below, this arrangement makes the back of the radio very compact which helps it fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_back.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Power Wiring===<br /> On the power supply you can add a third powerpole connector which is jumped to ground. When the third connector is also done on the radio side (connected to the radio brown wire) it forces the radio to 20W when plugged into the supply. This is good because our power supply is only rated for 7.5 amps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The power cable is 24 inches of 12-gauge red/black zipcord with a third wire for sensing low-power mode. Additionally it has a 16 inch length of zipcord for the tuner with a 2.5x5.5mm right-angle connector. As with the OEM cable, the 12-gauge cable splits off into two 14-gauge cables at the connector. You will notice that there are no fuses on this cable. I didn't bother because all my power sources for the pack are fused. In hindsight it would be prudent to put 30A fuses on both the positive and negative wires.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Third Powerpole connector for low power sense.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Connector end detail<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Monopod===<br /> The monopod is used to elevate the feedpoint of the dipole or a short vertical antenna. It is carbon fiber, weighs only 19oz, and extends to 68&quot;.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The monopod needs to be shortened to fit into the pack. Going around the perimeter of the small end rod, cut off the bottom half of the top rubber cap. This will allow the rod to collapse about an additional 1/2 inch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The bottom cap can be removed by pushing in the two roll pins with a small center punch. Then, with the rod fully collapsed, you will see there is about 13/16 inch you can saw off the big end without hitting the smaller rods that collapse inside of it. The photo below shows it after the cut.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Radio setup===<br /> Here is how I set mine up&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 7.000mhz<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to on.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 19&quot; (CAT Rate). Set it to 9600.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 29&quot; (CW Sidetone). Set it to 5.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 38&quot; (Dig Mode). Set it to PSK31-U.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 59&quot; (Mic Sel). Set it to RMT if you are using the MH-59A8J mic.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 86&quot; (TX IF Filter). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 2.3<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 50.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 144.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 20.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 446.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 10.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Enable 2.3kc filter for TX:<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push FUNC, rotate select to N, press 2.3 (above B key)<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ==Usage==<br /> The most basic setup is pulling the aluminum pack handle up one notch and attaching the mount/antenna. This can be used for a quick base setup or walking around with the pack on your back. The photo below shows the mount and 2m/70cm whip installed. If you want a somewhat useful counterpoise for 6m/2m/70cm without attaching the counterpoise wire, simply invert the feedline such that the chokes are by the radio instead of by the antenna. This way you can use the coax itself for a counterpoise. Its certainly not the best way to do it but it will work.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each aluminum rod is 18&quot; and you can use one of them by itself for a 2m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rods2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you use both rods with the 2m/70cm whip on top you will have a 6m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> You can use the monopod to elevate the a 6m/2m/70cm antenna. We use the carpal tunnel wrist strap to attach the monopod to the packs aluminum handle. The next photo looks like the leaning tower of Pisa because my first prototype was done with a medium-sized wrist strap. I have since moved to a small-sized strap which makes it stand much straighter. The monopod is good for 6m/2m/70cm verticals and for holding the feedpoint of a dipole. Do not use the monopod with the 8-foot antenna rod and/or the large loading coil as it gets too top heavy to remain stable. The following photo shows the ground radials installed and the choke ferrite near the antenna feedpoint. For a simpler setup you can skip the ground radials and invert the feedline (so the choke ferrites are near the radio) which will make the feedline act as a counterpoise. Yes I know this was said earlier in the article but its worth repeating.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_8.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Detail of antenna mount attached to the monopod pole<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_9.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The collapsible antenna by itself will work as a quarter-wave on 10m (pictured below) and should also tune up ok on 12m. It will work as a quarter-wave on 15m if you add the two aluminum extension rods.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Attaching the coil (tapped on the lowest turn) to the antenna base with the two aluminum rods above it will tune down to 80m. This configuration will have near zero efficiency however it will allow short-range communication on 75/80m while walking around with the pack on your back.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The best vertical configuration for 80m thru 17m is attaching the two rods to the base, putting the coil on top of the rods, then putting the collapsible aluminum antenna rod on top. It is best to tilt the pack over on its wheels and assemble the antenna on the ground.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once its assembled, tilt it up by lifting the aluminum arm on the pack. The weight of the batteries do a good job of keeping the antenna in place.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you want to try 160 meters you can remove the 8 foot whip and connect one of the 59-foot wire spools to the top of the coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a dipole configuration you can strap the balun to the top of the monopod and connect our spools of wire to it. Dipoles work best when they are at least 1/4 wave above the ground. Our feedpoint impedance will typically be much less than 50 ohms because in most cases we will be less than 1/4 wave off the ground. This will be especially noticeable on 40m/80m. Attach one wire to the &quot;C&quot; (common) balun terminal and attach the other wire to either the 12, 25, or 50 ohm terminal depending on which one works best. The wire spools use 3/8 ring terminals so we can optionally connect them directly to the vertical antenna mount if you want to feed a dipole directly without the balun.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One other important thing to note about dipoles is its best to keep the ends up off the ground. There is 8 feet of nylon rope at the end of the spools which can help in getting your wire somewhere it can be secured. In my pack I also keep short plastic tent stakes and short bungee cords which can help in some situations.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_10.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> There are a few other odds &amp; ends I keep in the pack. The PL-259 center to ring terminal adapter is for using the voltage balun with the vertical antenna. The Powerpole &quot;Y&quot; cable is for running the AC adapter or solar charger while using the radio. The short 3/8-24 bolt is for attaching a dipole wire directly to the antenna mount or to the top of the coil. There are also two 8-foot stereo cables for the data adapter and a 10-foot serial cable (not pictured). (I chose 8-10' cables to keep the computer RF a little ways away from the radio/antenna). At the bottom is the usb/serial adapter and on the bottom right are short velcro cable ties for attaching the feedline to the monopole and/or aluminum pack handle.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_misc.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is how it all fits into the pack<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_11.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete pack with both batteries and the computer weighs 35 lbs.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The weight can be substantially reduced by removing the spare battery, AC adapter, computer (if you don't need it), and any antenna parts you don't plan on using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In case you are wondering where the CW key/paddles are, I'm still working on finding a solution that works well with this portable setup.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Two that have been recommended are the Mini Paddle from Milestone Technologies and the Traveler Light from Begali.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Parts &amp; Prices==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> $799 FT857D w/YSK857<br /> $95 TCXO-9<br /> $82 MH-59A8J DTMF mic (also needed for direct freq entry)<br /> <br /> $120 W4RT2.3khz ssb filter<br /> $169 Z-11pro2<br /> <br /> $14 IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter (ebay)<br /> $2 bridge rectifier KBPC5010 (ebay)<br /> <br /> old: $144 (8) 16ah 40160s lifepo4 $24/ea (bmsbattery.com or manzanitamicro.com)<br /> new: $144 (8) 15ah 40152s lifepo4 $24/ea (evassemble.com)<br /> $3 (8) 40152S or 40160S battery holders 0.40/ea<br /> $4 (8) 40152S or 40160S bus bar connectors 0.50/ea<br /> $80 battery shipping<br /> <br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> <br /> $97 (2) 30A Battery Management PCB http://www.batteryspace.com/pcbprotectioncircuitmodulefor4cells128vlifepo4batterypackat30alimited.aspx<br /> <br /> $11 USB to serial converter http://www.usbgear.com/computer_cable_details.cfm?sku=USBG-RS232-F12&amp;cats=199&amp;catid=482%2C199%2C601%2C461<br /> <br /> $8 3/8X24 Thread Mirror Mount: Wilson 901104<br /> $5 (20') Belden 8219 (RG58A/U) <br /> $3 (4) Amphenol 83-185-RFX (UG-175 reducer)<br /> $20 (4) Amphenol 83-822 (PL259)<br /> $10 shipping (theantennafarm.com)<br /> <br /> $79 Jansport Driver 8 TN89-008 UPC 757969203361 Wheeled Backpack (buy.com)<br /> <br /> $6 dual-band (2/440) whip with 3/8x24 mount (hamstick EDBW-1, Opek DB-1, or Workman DB-1) <br /> $4 (2) WORKKW2000A or CONXPARTSA (this is the power cord and connector pins)<br /> $3 (6 feet) Red &amp; Black DC wire 12 GA<br /> $9 shipping (k1cra.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (3') LMR-600 (showmecables.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 nuts (7/16&quot; head)<br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts<br /> $2 (8) 1/4&quot;-20 wingnuts<br /> $9 (10') 4&quot; drainpipe (we need one 7 3/4&quot; piece)<br /> $4 (2) 4&quot; drainpipe cap (home depot)<br /> <br /> $20 (5) littelfuse FHA30 12AWG inline fuse holder<br /> $3 (1) 5-pack of ATO 7.5 fuse (drillspot.com)<br /> <br /> $3 4' 14 gauge cable (for short part of radio power connector) (.62/ft)<br /> $1 4' 18 gauge cable (for battery sense +/- to pcb, low power wire on power cable) (.31/ft)<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (22-18) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $4 (1) 1/4&quot; (16-14) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (12-10) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $10 shipping (parts-express.com)<br /> <br /> (1) DB9F mouser 156-1309 0.80<br /> (4) BC546A mouser 512-BC546A 0.10<br /> (2) 5.6k 1/4w mouser 588-OD562JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (3) 10k 1/4w mouser 588-OD103JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (1) 3.5mm 3-pin plug (cw) (2 wires used) mouser 568-NYS231BG 1.69 (for cw jack)<br /> (1) 8-pin mini-din (cat) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2608 1.49<br /> (1) 6-pin mini-din (data) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2606 1.36<br /> (2) 600ohm 1:1 transformer mouser 42TL016-RC 1.66<br /> (2) 51 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD510JE 0.42<br /> (1) 1uf cap mouser 5989-100V1.0-F 0.71<br /> (1) .0047uf cap mouser 140-50P5-472K-RC 50v ceramic disc 0.12<br /> (1) 100 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD101JE 0.42 carbon comp 5%<br /> (1) 1k 1/4w mouser 588-OD102JE 0.42<br /> (1) board mouser 854-PR1593K $4.10 2.6 x 2.6<br /> (1) box mouser 546-1593KBK $2.88 (box is 2.6 x 2.6 x 1.1)<br /> (2) 2.2k resistor 1/2w carbon comp 5% mouser 588-OF222JE (1/4w mouser 588-OD222JE 0.42 not avail)<br /> (4) PL259 right angle Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U Mouser 523-83-1AP $14.70/ea<br /> (1) 2.5x5.5mm right angle plug (24AWG) power plug for tuner mouser 171-3216-EX $1.04/ea<br /> (2) ferrites - mouser 875-LFB187102-000 3.03/ea 3/4&quot; OD .400&quot; ID 1.125&quot; long (3 turns RG58 = 1000 ohm impedance @ 1-5mhz)<br /> (2) mouser 526-WH22-00-100 100' 22awg copper 7-strand hookup wire black nteinc.com $19 (use p/n 03-100 for orange) insulation OD 0.060&quot;<br /> (2) 3.5mm stereo jacks 502-35RAPC3BV4 2.73<br /> $112 total<br /> $12 shipping (mouser.com)<br /> <br /> $8 (1) 14-pack 3/8 ring terminal 16-14AWG (JT&amp;T 2011H - amazon.com)<br /> $18 (2) 8ft 3.5mm stereo cables (mediabridge - amazon.com)<br /> $3 21/64 (.3281&quot;) drill bit for 3/8-24 threads (amazon.com)<br /> $28 3' Aluminum 6061-T6 Seamless Round Tubing, WW-T 700/6, 1/2&quot; OD, 1/4&quot; ID, 1/8&quot; Wall, 36&quot; Length (amazon.com)<br /> $65 Opteka CFM300 68&quot; 5 Section 8x Carbon Fiber Monopod (amazon.com)<br /> $209 (1) PowerFilm F15-1200 20W solar panel 10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6 1 lb (amazon.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (4) EZ-Hook XM (digi-key 461-1004-ND)<br /> <br /> $2 Akro-Mils plastic dividers (Akro-Mils 40150 wasserstrom.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (8) 3/8-24 Jam Nuts 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (2) 3/8-24 Hex Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $10 (5) 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (10) 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer 316 Stainless Steel<br /> $7 shipping (fastener-warehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $7 (5') 1/4&quot; schedule 80 PVC pipe (usplastic.com)<br /> <br /> $14 (2) coleman 827E140T colthesline reel (coleman.com)<br /> <br /> $58 AT-271A/PRC antenna (ebay) OR $58 Voile Tourlight Avalanche Probe (8 foot) (voile-usa.com)<br /> Alternatively there are threaded snow probes at: http://us-warehouse.genuineguidegear.com/collections/probes/products/solid-probes<br /> <br /> $2 (2) 6&quot; tent stakes (rei.com)<br /> $2 (1) 4-pack of 10&quot; bungee cords (rei.com)<br /> $8 tax/shipping (rei.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) F-125-K Toroid Core 1.25&quot; 250-300 permeability low loss ferrite 1-30 mhz (theaudioguru.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (1) 1/4 lb Wire, 16ga (0.05&quot;) enameled (we need 4 feet for toroid) (allspectrum.com or jameco.com)<br /> <br /> $20 (1) 79-87283 DonJoy COMFORTFORM WRIST support-Small right (expressorthopedics.com - warning, it takes them a month to ship it)<br /> <br /> $8 Cables To Go 52030 - 6ft DB9 M/F All Lines Extension Cable Black (nextwarehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) 85085K8 25-pack nylon edge trim .065 gap width 3/16 opening, 15/64 height, 12 3/4 long<br /> $23 (1) 8871K71 80' (1 lb) spool .064&quot; (14ga) tin coated copper wire (spool says Arcor 14AWG)<br /> $2 (1) 91187A202 1.5&quot; 5/16-18 RHT stainless stud (or you can order a 10-pack for $4.55 with part number 95412A587)<br /> $10 (2) 95412A659 5-pack of 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud<br /> $9 tax/shipping (mcmaster.com)<br /> <br /> ==========<br /> $2518 approximate cost<br /> <br /> <br /> $? (1) stickyback velcro (attach tuner to radio mount)<br /> <br /> $? (1) velcro wire ties (attach coax to antenna mast)<br /> <br /> $? (1) 3/8-24 tap<br /> $? (1) 5/16-18 tap<br /> $? (1) Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box (for balun) 3x2x1&quot;<br /> <br /> $? (4) 30A (12-14AWG) red/black powerpole connector (1 for radio, 2 for batteries, 1 for AC/DC power supply)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==More Information==<br /> Here are some websites with great ideas for building backpack radios:<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://ec1cw.blogspot.com/2012/12/my-ft-857d-manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/321107979094<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_22/665730_Build_your_own_HF_manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://hfpack.com/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://pinztrek.com/radio/hfpack/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.dbbear.com/k0emt/projant/hfpack/</div> Wed, 11 Jan 2017 23:28:48 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:W7KI_Manpack_Radio http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Watches_(mechanical) <p>Rich:&#32;</p> <hr /> <div>Watches can be a long and complex topic. This article is limited to exploring the practicality of mechanical watch movements for mission-critical applications.<br /> <br /> Watches are a useful tool for various scenarios (emergency communications, survival, medical, military, law enforcement, navigation, etc). Most watches can be categorized as mechanical (spring powered) or quartz (battery powered). Quartz watches offer higher accuracy than mechanical however the downside is having the battery die on you at an inopportune time and/or when a replacement isn't readily available. For this reason I believe a mechanical watch is the correct choice for anyone serious about having a timepiece which can be relied upon in all scenarios. I suppose it could also be argued that a mechanical watch isn't susceptible to EMP however if your watch got nuked that badly I think the person wearing it would have a lot more to worry about than their watch ticking.<br /> <br /> One example of relying on a watch is disaster/emergency radio networks, many of which operate or at least monitor the frequency from the top of the hour until 5 minutes after the hour. This is done to conserve battery/generator power. Of course these networks aren't going to work very well unless all the participating stations have a functioning timepiece.<br /> <br /> Mechanical watches come in three flavors; Automatic winding (by motion of your arm), Manual winding (turning the &quot;crown&quot; knob on the side), or both.<br /> <br /> Here are some common mechanical movements with above average quality that are currently on the market:<br /> <br /> ==Seiko 7S26 (21 jewel) and 7S36 (23 jewel)==<br /> These movements also provide day/date however they only have automatic winding. There is no option to manually wind the watch so it can crap out at any time if you are not providing sufficient movement. 7S26 watches usually go for $50-$100 and 7S36 watches for $100-$180. A common line of watches with these movements is the Seiko Sports 5.<br /> <br /> ==Miyota (8205, 8215, 6T51, etc)==<br /> These movements are usually 21 jewel. The 8205 movement has day/date and the 8215 has date. These movements support both automatic winding and manual winding. The only drawback is these movements don't &quot;hack&quot;. &quot;Hack&quot; means the second hand stops when you pull out the knob to set the time. This is important if you want to adjust your time to be accurate down to the second. It also gives you the ability to accurately synchronize your watch with another persons watch. Miyota movements are often found in Citizen, Bulova, Miyota, Wittnauer, Camel, Dugena, Festina, Jacques Lemans, and Invicta brand watches and are usually in the $190-$250 range.<br /> <br /> ==ETA 2824-2==<br /> This is a quality Swiss movement that supports manual/automatic winding, date, and &quot;hack&quot;. There are many copies of this movement on the market (Sellita SW200 and a handful of Chinese knockoffs). Watches with this movement are usually in the $250-$500 range.<br /> <br /> ==Seiko 6R15/6R20==<br /> Similar specs to the ETA 2824-2, supports manual/automatic winding, date, and &quot;hack&quot;. Watches with this movement are usually in the $400-$700 range.<br /> <br /> ==ETA 2836-2==<br /> Same as the 2824-2 but also supports day of week. Copies include the Sellita SW220 and junk out of China. Watches with this movement are usually in the $450-$900 range. You can find this movement in Tissot, Ball, Hamiltion, Mido, and a handful of other brands (including fake Rolexes).<br /> <br /> ==Conclusion==<br /> Past here there are even fancier movements with prices from $1000-$10000+ (Omega, Rolex, etc) but that is getting beyond the scope of this article.<br /> <br /> Watches can be a long and complex topic. This article is limited to exploring the practicality of mechanical watch movements for mission-critical applications.<br /> <br /> Watches are a useful tool for various scenarios (emergency communications, survival, medical, military, law enforcement, navigation, etc). Most watches can be categorized as mechanical (spring powered) or quartz (battery powered). Quartz watches offer higher accuracy than mechanical however the downside is having the battery die on you at an inopportune time and/or when a replacement isn't readily available. For this reason I believe a mechanical watch is the correct choice for anyone serious about having a timepiece which can be relied upon in all scenarios. I suppose it could also be argued that a mechanical watch isn't susceptible to EMP however if your watch got nuked that badly I think the person wearing it would have a lot more to worry about than their watch ticking.<br /> <br /> One example of relying on a watch is disaster/emergency radio networks, many of which operate or at least monitor the frequency from the top of the hour until 5 minutes after the hour. This is done to conserve battery/generator power. Of course these networks aren't going to work very well unless all the participating stations have a functioning timepiece.<br /> <br /> Mechanical watches come in three flavors; Automatic winding (by motion of your arm), Manual winding (turning the &quot;crown&quot; knob on the side), or both.<br /> <br /> Here are some common mechanical movements with above average quality that are currently on the market:<br /> <br /> ==Seiko 7S26 (21 jewel) and 7S36 (23 jewel)==<br /> These movements also provide day/date however they only have automatic winding. There is no option to manually wind the watch so it can crap out at any time if you are not providing sufficient movement. 7S26 watches usually go for $50-$100 and 7S36 watches for $100-$180. A common line of watches with these movements is the Seiko Sports 5.<br /> <br /> ==Miyota (8205, 8215, 6T51, etc)==<br /> These movements are usually 21 jewel. The 8205 movement has day/date and the 8215 has date. These movements support both automatic winding and manual winding. The only drawback is these movements don't &quot;hack&quot;. &quot;Hack&quot; means the second hand stops when you pull out the knob to set the time. This is important if you want to adjust your time to be accurate down to the second. It also gives you the ability to accurately synchronize your watch with another persons watch. Miyota movements are often found in Citizen, Bulova, Miyota, Wittnauer, Camel, Dugena, Festina, Jacques Lemans, and Invicta brand watches and are usually in the $190-$250 range.<br /> <br /> ==ETA 2824-2==<br /> This is a quality Swiss movement that supports manual/automatic winding, date, and &quot;hack&quot;. There are many copies of this movement on the market (Sellita SW200 and a handful of Chinese knockoffs). Watches with this movement are usually in the $250-$500 range.<br /> <br /> ==Seiko 6R15/6R20==<br /> Similar specs to the ETA 2824-2, supports manual/automatic winding, date, and &quot;hack&quot;. Watches with this movement are usually in the $400-$700 range.<br /> <br /> ==ETA 2836-2==<br /> Same as the 2824-2 but also supports day of week. Copies include the Sellita SW220 and junk out of China. Watches with this movement are usually in the $450-$900 range. You can find this movement in Tissot, Ball, Hamiltion, Mido, and a handful of other brands (including fake Rolexes).<br /> <br /> ==Conclusion==<br /> Past here there are even fancier movements with prices from $1000-$10000+ (Omega, Rolex, etc) but that is getting beyond the scope of this article.<br /> <br /> I ended up buying a Seiko with automatic winding. Had it for a few years now without any problems.</div> Thu, 29 Oct 2015 03:21:47 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:Watches_(mechanical) http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/W7KI_Manpack_Radio <p>Rich:&#32;/* The Antenna */</p> <hr /> <div>[[File:FT857_and_tuner_in_pack.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;This article details how I set up a HF/VHF/UHF manpack radio.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> ==Overview==<br /> ===Design goals===<br /> Radio RF Output:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Minimum of 20W, preferable to have optional 50W+ available if needed<br /> Radio Frequency coverage:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : HF, 6 meters, 2 meters, and 70cm<br /> Radio Modes:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : FM/SSB/CW/PSK<br /> Radio receive current:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : preferably less than 700mA<br /> Tuner:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : 10-500ohm minimum, preferable little to no idle current<br /> Battery:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : sufficient to handle a weekend without recharging<br /> Power:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Battery, AC, or solar&lt;br&gt;<br /> Antenna:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Vertical or dipole with optional voltage balun<br /> PC:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Small netbook capable of digital modes<br /> Size:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Everything fits within a pack suitable for airplane carry-on (21x14x10&quot;).<br /> All items:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Weight as minimal as possible !<br /> Cost:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : $2500 neighborhood<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Radio===<br /> Here is a quick rundown of the radios I considered:&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Military radios==== <br /> : I looked at the PRC-104, PRC-132, PRC-138, PRC-320, PRC-1099, PRC-2000, and AEG SE-6861.<br /> : All of them are good radios. Only problem is I want HF/6/2/440 so I'm stuck<br /> : with looking at amateur radios.<br /> <br /> ====Vertex VX-1210====<br /> : This is a commercial radio ($1400+, 7.1lb w/batt, rx: 500mA, tx: 3A/5W, 5A/20W)<br /> : Very tempting but is HF only. Has option for internal autotuner and can be<br /> : set up for VFO operation. Battery is 14.4v 4AH.<br /> <br /> ====Mobat Micom 3 Pathfinder====<br /> : This is a 25W commercial radio. Excessive cost for this project. Otherwise a great radio !<br /> <br /> ====Outback radios (QMAC, Barrett, Codan)====<br /> : QMAC HF90 excessive cost &amp; no longer made, Barrett 940 too heavy (18.5lbs w/tuner battery)<br /> : Barrett 2040, Codan 2110 excessive cost.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-817ND====<br /> : Portable amateur radio ($600, 2.6lb, 8-16v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 2A/5W)<br /> : Tempting, and would pair nicely with the LDG Z-817 or Elecraft T1 tuner.<br /> : Only problem is I want 20W+. This could be accomplished with a Tokyo High Power HL-45B<br /> : amp ($400, 3.4 lbs, 8.5A/45W, 160-6m) + LDG Z-817H tuner.<br /> : This is a viable combination and has the benefit of low RX current.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC703+====<br /> : Amateur radio (discontinued, 4.4lb, 9-15.8v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 3A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Nice radio, big and easily readable display, built in autotuner. Wish it did 2m/440<br /> : like its bigger brother (IC-706).<br /> <br /> ====Elecraft KX3====<br /> : Portable amateur radio (new to market, 1.5lb, 8-14v(?), rx: 150-???mA, tx: ?A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Great display and control layout located on what would normally be considered the &quot;top&quot;<br /> : of the radio which gives ample room compared to other radios. Built in autotuner. CW paddles<br /> : right on front of the radio. I would have liked to see a little more than 10W however its<br /> : certainly a reasonable and usable amount of power (and better than 5W). Has option for <br /> : an external KXPA100 100W amp and KXAT100 tuner. Overall it is an exciting product and I <br /> : probably would have bought one if I wasn't looking to have 2m/440 in the same radio.<br /> : I don't know if it supports CTCSS for 10m FM repeaters and CTCSS/DCS for 6m FM repeaters.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC706MK2G====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 5.5lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1800-2000mA, tx: 20A/100W)<br /> : RX current way too high, VHF frontend easily overloads. Nice display as with the IC703<br /> : above. The RX current is a deal breaker for battery ops. <br /> <br /> ====Icom IC7000====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($1200, 5.1lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1300-1600mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : Nice radio. RX current better than IC706 but still a little on the high side for battery ops.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-897D====<br /> : Mobile/portable amateur radio ($900, 8.6lb, 11.7-15.9v, rx: 600-1000mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : HF/50 MHz:5 watts = 4.0-4.7 amps 10 watts = 5.3-6.4 amps 25 watts = 7.3-9.2 amps 50 watts = 10.6-12.9 amps<br /> : 144 MHz: 5 watts = 3.4 amps 10 watts = 4.2 amps 25 watts = 6.3 amps 50 watts = 9.4 amps<br /> : 420 MHz: 5 watts = 4.2 amps 10 watts = 5.6 amps 20 watts = 8.7 amps<br /> :<br /> : Designed for field ops and has room for internal batteries (13.2v, 9AH) however the batteries<br /> : add an additional 6.5lbs to a radio which is already heavy at 8.6lbs. One option is to run your<br /> : own external battery which gives you room to install an internal 120V power supply. Overall<br /> : I really like this radio but its ruggedness will cost you in weight. You can get the FT-857D<br /> : (sacrificing the 897's rugged case and internal battery space) and save 4lbs on your back.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-857D====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 4.6lb, 12.4-15.2v,<br /> : rx: 600-1000mA (spec) 650-700mA (green/red backlight) 590mA (backlight off)<br /> : tx: 2A/5W 5A/15W 22A/100W)<br /> : Unlike the FT-897D above, this radio does not come with a TCXO. By the time you spend $100 on<br /> : the TCXO you end up with about the same radio as the FT-897D for the same price. Comparing the<br /> : FT-857D to the FT-897D has some pluses: 4lbs lighter, detachable head, and easier to mount mobile.<br /> : The minuses are we don't get the rugged case and battery space. I don't think either of these<br /> : minuses will matter as the radio and batteries will end up in a pack. One other thing to note is<br /> : both the 857 and 897 will automatically limit the radio to 20W when running on battery power<br /> : (by grounding the brown wire on the power connector).<br /> : Spec says voltage is 12.4-15.2, manual says 11.73-15.87.<br /> : The 857's signal will start sounding bad at about 11.75v.<br /> <br /> Given everything above it came down to deciding between the FT-857D and FT-897D.&lt;br&gt;<br /> I chose the FT-857D because its 4lbs lighter than the FT-897D. Every pound counts when backpacking !&lt;br&gt;<br /> The radio is best equipped with: tcxo-9, keypad mic, (2) W4RT/inrad.net filters.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Tuner===<br /> For honorable mention we have the long-discontinued Kenwood AT-130 which is a very small 80-10m(+WARC)&lt;br&gt;<br /> manual tuner (6 x 2.4 x 6.3 inches, 3.5 lbs.). For field ops I prefer a small autotuner. Yaesu makes the&lt;br&gt;<br /> FC-30 ($170, 17-150 ohms, 3.1 x 1.8 x 10.2 in, 2.2 lbs) however its 17-150 ohm tuning range is quite&lt;br&gt;<br /> narrow compared to the LDG product line.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the breakdown of the LDG products I looked at. All of them have latching relays.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> : $200 LDG YT-100 for 857/897 100w 4-800 ohm 7 x 7 x 2 1.5lbs<br /> : $200 LDG AT-897+ for 857/897 100w 6-800 ohm 11.5 x 3.25 x 1.5 2.0lbs<br /> : $160 Z100+ ? 125w 6-800 ohm 5.5 x 5.5 x 1.5 1 lb w/o batts<br /> : $170 Z11pro2 6-1000 ohm 7.7 x 5.0 x 1.5 1.5lb w/o batts<br /> &lt;br&gt; <br /> I ended up going with the Z11pro2 as it can autotune based on RF sense which keeps the CAT and ACC ports free. This is good because we&lt;br&gt;<br /> need both ports for our data interface. Another bonus of RF sense tuning is it makes the radio PC-ALE capable provided the antenna is&lt;br&gt;<br /> tunable on whatever ALE frequencies are to be used.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device on the left is the data/soundcard interface&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[File:FT857_and_tuner.jpg]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Battery===<br /> The following text describes how to build a battery pack. If you do not want to build this battery pack then you can buy one already built. For example you can look up &quot;ZIPPY Flightmax 8400mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack&quot; which currently sells for about $75. You will need to find a suitable charger for it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> I initially considered using 11 Accupower NiMH low-discharge &quot;D&quot; cells (10aH, 1.25v, 145g ea.)&lt;br&gt;<br /> This would give us 13.75v, 10aH at 3.5lb for about $110.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After more research I went with (8) 40160S LiFePO4 batteries (16AH/ea). This project really only needs 4 of these<br /> batteries however I opted to build two battery packs. 4 of these batteries in series gives you around 13 volts.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The 40160S 16AH battery is no longer being sold. The manufacturer has replaced it with the 40152S 15AH battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Paired with each battery pack is a circuit which protects from overcharge/overdischarge/overcurrent. It also keeps the batteries balanced<br /> while charging. After a long search for a suitable lightweight container I found the 4-battery pack fits perfectly into a &quot;Huggies&quot;<br /> baby wipe plastic box. I cut a small slot in the box for a short piece of velcro which holds the lid closed. The complete pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If you intend on taking your backpack radio on a commercial aircraft, keep in mind there are restrictions on high capacity lithium ion batteries. If you believe this will be a problem you can build a pack from 11 NiMH D cells or use a pre-made NiMH RC pack. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Notice the top door works great for the powerpole.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is a view of the internals. The protection circuit board is on the top.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The AC adapter/charger===<br /> I wanted enough beef for the radio to do 20W off the adapter. I ended up getting IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter<br /> for about $14 off ebay. It is relatively small and weighs 0.4 lb. I run it through a bridge rectifier which reduces the voltage to 14.8V which is suitable for operating the radio and charging the battery pack. Of course running DC through a bridge rectifier only uses two of the four diodes however it was an inexpensive solution which is much easier than standalone diodes to mount to the cable/fuse.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I found that the battery pack can draw up to 8A during charging so I used a 10A fuse on the power supply. Yes, I know the power supply is only rated at 7.5A and putting a 10A fuse on it is not good practice. So far it hasn't been a problem. During charging the bridge rectifier can get quite hot so make sure it is on a non-flammable surface. The obvious solution to all this would be a series current limiting resistor which is something I'll look into when I get the time.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> For now I am charging the battery pack with a small smart charger (Noco Genius G3500) which is set for a standard 12V battery at a 3.5A charge rate. It just so happens that its output voltage on this setting is just right for charging the LiFePO4 battery. The Noco Genius is a handy little charger as it is also good for charging and topping off car batteries, AGM batteries, 12V 7AH brick batteries, etc. and it will float the batteries without overcharging them. Another nice thing about this charger is its small enough to fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ac_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Solar Panel===<br /> PowerFilm F15-1200 20W (10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6&quot; 1 lb )&lt;br&gt;<br /> Nice compact and light panel but a little pricey at $10/watt. I would have gone with their 30W panel but it was even more overpriced.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the solar panel<br /> [[File:W7ki_solar_panel.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Computer===<br /> EEEPC 1000h. Small battery-efficient netbook with 10&quot; screen. Used it because I had it on hand. Any netbook would probably do ok so<br /> long as it has mic/headphone jacks. One bonus of this particular computer is you can feed it 12VDC direct.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the computer<br /> [[File:W7ki_netbook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Data Interface===<br /> Homemade. Nothing fancy, just some audio isolation transformers, a level converter, and a PTT transistor.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The data interface and the tuner are attached to the mobile mounting bracket with velcro. Note how the mobile bracket is angled such that the front of the tuner is slightly elevated. This was done to give some clearance to the radio speaker and also helps to direct the audio out of the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_data_interface1.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Antenna===<br /> I looked at a variety of compact antennas (Outbacker Joey, Outbacker Stealth Plus, ATX-W38 walkabout, ATX-DHP, and a handful<br /> of others). It was difficult to find anything that would collapse to under 18 inches (requirement for the pack I'm using). It was probably just as well<br /> since many &quot;portable&quot; antennas are helical which I personally despise.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My original intent was to buy a &quot;Buddi&quot; product and evaluate how it worked in a vertical configuration. The only issue was whether their 80 meter coil would fit in the pack. I emailed them multiple times asking the dimensions of the coil but unfortunately all of my emails were ignored. This probably speaks volumes as to how they handle issues after a sale so I thought it best not to do business with them until their customer communication improves.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Of all the pre-made antennas I found two that appear to be worthwhile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One is the SuperAntenna MP1B SuperStick which is a good solution as it collapses to 12 inches and weighs under 2 pounds. When I first wrote this article their company had no products available which I believe was due to a transition in ownership. Their products are now available again and I plan on trying one out. I would buy the MP1B antenna, TM1 mount, and optionally MC60 coil for 60 meters and MC80 coil for 80 meters. A properly adjusted SuperAntenna requires no tuner however you need to use a correct length ground radial. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In June 2015 SuperAntenna released the MP1R SuperStick with a flexible whip.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The other is the JPC-7 product line which can be found at http://www.108mhz.com/ham-antenna-c-59.html or on ebay. All three versions of the JPC-7 are lightweight and collapse to a small size.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you choose not to purchase a pre-made antenna, the text past this point describes an antenna/coil that you can build.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I ended up using a military AT271-A/PRC antenna. It is a 7 section antenna with a 3/8-24 base that extends to 113.5 inches and collapses to 17 inches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> It has an optional 8 inch spring (AB-129/PR) which I am not currently using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:At271a.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As an alternative I found an 8.5' collapsible aluminum pole made for measuring snowpacks and after some tinkering it worked like a charm. There is a threaded version which may work better (listed at the end of this article in the Parts Sources section).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pole_antenna.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Either of these antennas is very usable on HF when paired with a couple of 18&quot; aluminum extender rods and a large tapped coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_big_coil.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> Obviously running a huge coil with a short antenna is about as worthless as a short helical so its important to remember to use as much whip or longwire as you can if you<br /> are less than 1/4 wave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a horizontal option I built a tapped voltage balun which attaches to a vertical extension arm and connects to two spools of wire.<br /> [[File:W7ki_horiz_setup.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;The wire spools can also be used as a counterpoise for vertical configurations.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the bottom is a carbon fiber camera monopod which we use as a vertical extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the top is a carpal tunnel wrist strap which is used for attaching the monopod extension arm to the pack aluminum extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is wound on Coleman camping clothesline spools.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Another HF antenna option is to build the St. Louis Vertical: http://www.amqrp.org/projects/stluisvert/STLV%20Project.html&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For VHF/UHF I have a 17&quot; dual-band antenna. For VHF only you can also put one of the 18&quot; aluminum rods onto the 1&quot; antenna mount.&lt;br&gt;<br /> 6 meters can be done with the 17&quot; antenna on top of both 18&quot; rods.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Pack===<br /> I looked at dozens of packs before settling on the Jansport Driver 8. Most other packs were either oversized and/or too heavy.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My reasoning for a 21x14x10&quot; size limit is so you can carry this on a commercial airplane if you are traveling. You certainly wouldn't want<br /> to check this as luggage as it would probably get destroyed by handling or stolen.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Two main things I liked about the Driver 8 are the wheels and the telescoping arm. The telescoping arm is wonderful because it is very sturdy<br /> aluminum which allows you to securely attach an antenna to it. This is great for manpack operations if you want the antenna up while you are<br /> walking around with the pack on your back. It also works great for fixed operations as the pack itself can be used as an antenna base.<br /> The wheels not only give your back a break where smooth surfaces are available, they also give you the ability to easily lay down the pack when assembling a long antenna. Its like having a mini fold over tower.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The wheels are inline skate wheels and have a very low ground clearance. It will roll fine inside buildings or on a paved sidewalk. The wheels will not work on a trail. This is unfortunate as it is much easier to pull 35 lbs on wheels than to heft it on your back. One possible solution to this is to run a 1/2 inch rod (or thread stock?) along the bottom of the pack and install a pair of 10&quot; x 1.75 lightweight plastic wheels. I would use Martin Wheel part number 110 wheels because they come with metal ball bearings.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:w7ki_pack_radio.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Construction and Setup==<br /> A complete materials and sources list is at the end of this article.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Extension Rods and Antenna===<br /> To make the aluminum extension rods you need a 3 foot piece of aluminum rod. Cut the rod into 3 pieces, 2 of them will be 17 inches long and the third piece will be the remaining 2 inches.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take a 21/64 inch drill bit and drill about 1.5 inches into both ends of the 17 inch rods. Be careful to drill straight. Once this is done tap threads into both ends with a 3/8-24 tap. Tapping threads into aluminum generates a tremendous amount of heat so remember to tap slowly and use an oil lubricant. Right after tapping these rods I bumped one of them with my arm and got a very nasty burn.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the tapping is done thread a 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud into both ends of the rods. Then, for each rod, put a 3/8-24 jam nut over the stud on one end and put a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut over the stud on the other end. When you are done it should look like the picture below.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> This section deals with constructing the antenna if you chose not to buy an AT-271 antenna:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now grab the remaining 2 inch piece of aluminum rod. Drill one end 1 inch deep with a size F (.2443 inch) bit then drill the other end 1 inch deep with the 21/64 inch drill bit you used for the other rods. Tap 5/16-18 threads into the size F end and 3/8-24 threads into the 21/64 end.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take the aluminum snowpack pole, remove the lanyard string, push in the lower release spring button and shove it up the tube a couple inches, and tap the bottom for 5/16-18 threads. The two photos below show the start and finish of tapping the threads. I seriously do not recommend using vise-grips as shown in the photos. The antenna deforms very easily. It would be much better to lightly use a vise which can distribute the grip better with much less crush force. Again, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CRUSH OR DEFORM THE TUBE. I darn near destroyed the prototype using vise-grips.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Next we take a 1.5 inch 5/16-18 stud and thread half of it into the antenna. This is generally difficult to do so I recommend tightening two 5/16-18 nuts against each other onto the stud and use the outer nut with a wrench. Once the stud is threaded into the antenna you can thread the 2 inch aluminum rod onto the stud, then thread a 3/8-24 stud into the other end of the rod. Put a 3/8-24 jam nut onto the exposed threads. What you have done here is built a 5/16-18 to 3/8-24 thread adapter. The photo below shows what the finished product should look like.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rod_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The next step is to modify the antenna to make it conductive. The anodized surfaces do not conduct electricity so you need to take some sandpaper and sand out the inside of the bottom of each rod (about 3/4 inch should do). Another issue is the tapered inserts which are crimped into the top of the rods. These don't conduct either so you need to lightly bond them with an arc weld. This should be done with a MIG or TIG welder. Remember to sand the surfaces first, including the entire tapered section. I cheesed mine by using two truck batteries, a pair of jumper cables, and some real thin aluminum wire. Some people refer to this as hillbilly arc welding. Please don't do this unless you know the risks, know what you are doing, and you are using appropriate eye protection. Verify the end to end continuity of the antenna with an ohmmeter when you are done. Here is what mine looked like when it was done.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_hillbilly_weld.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The final step is to flatten out the pointed tip of the antenna rod. You can do this with a grinder or file.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Coil===<br /> The coil is made from a 7 3/4 inch piece of 4 inch diameter drainpipe with a drainpipe cap on each end. To make room for more coil turns we cut 1 3/8 inch off the end of the drainpipe cap. You need to cut two end caps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Locate the center of each cap, tap the center with a center punch or nail, drill a 1/8&quot; pilot hole, then drill in again with a 3/8&quot; bit.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now we take a piece of 1/4 inch schedule 80 pvc pipe and drill/tap it for 3/8-24 threads the same way you did the aluminum rods (except please don't use lubricating oil). Its important to use schedule 80 pipe as it has the correct inside diameter for tapping threads. The pipe should be about 7 1/2 inches long and later you might have to make some slight length adjustments for fit. Once your threads are tapped you can thread a 1.5 inch 3/8-24 stud into each end then put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer over the end (see photo below). Put one end into an end cap, put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer on the outside of the end cap, stack one 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal on top of the washer, and secure it with a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut stacked on top of the ring terminal.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Put the other end cap on. On the outside stack a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer, a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal, and a 3/8-24 jam nut.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to cover up any holes in the drainpipe with a square of duct tape.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To make the coil, glue 4 pieces of .065 Nylon Edge Trim as shown in the photo (credit to Phil AD5X for finding this edge trim). When cutting them to length, remember to offset each one to correctly accommodate a spirally-wound coil. Once this is done, drill a .065&quot; diagonal hole from the edge of the cap through the top of each cap (see photo), thread the wire through the hole and wind the coil with .064&quot; (14AWG) tin coated copper wire. Remember to keep tension on the coil or else it will wind loosely. The wire is stiff and doesn't come off the coil perfectly so there will be some manual coil alignment/straightening to do after the coil is wound. Once the coil is wound, put the ends thorough the 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminals, then cut &amp; solder. Be careful of heat damage to the plastic while soldering. Its usually best to loosen the end nuts prior to soldering as it will conduct less heat away from the ring terminals.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_end.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The coil tap is an EZ-Hook XM attached to a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal with an 11 inch piece of 22-gauge 7-strand insulated hookup wire. Attach the ring terminal above the coil ring terminal as shown in the photo.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_tap.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The EZ-Hook XM works great for 17AWG wire however its a little small for our 14AWG coil. The hook can be slightly adjusted with needlenose pliers to fit the 14AWG wire. The picture below shows the modified hook profile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ezhook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As built, the coil specs out like this: 7&quot; length, 4.25&quot; dia, 50 turns, 14ga .063 (spaced) = 129uH&lt;br&gt;<br /> Its a little overkill on the size &amp; inductance but it gives a lot of flexibility with short antennas.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Balun===<br /> The balun is based on a design by WB6ZQZ. His design appears to be a bifilar current balun in series with a quadrifilar voltage balun. We are only interested in the quadrifilar transformer because we will be using an external ferrite choke on the feedline (which allows us to use the choke for antenna configurations that don't use the voltage balun). Here is a link to instructions on how to wind the quadrifilar transformer:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> http://www.antennalaunchers.com/trb/photos.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Use 16ga enameled wire and a F-125-K toroid. Once the transformer is wound you can mount it on a small piece of plastic with holes drilled for the wires. Attach the wires to each other as per his schematic diagram and PC board photos.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mount the completed toroid into a 3x2x1 inch Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box. Install an SO-239 connector into the bottom of the box. For terminals I used (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts/nuts/wingnuts which are available at a home-improvement store. Label the terminals for Common, 50, 25, and 12 ohms. Attach a short piece of velcro to the back side which allows for mounting.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Antenna Mount &amp; Wire Spools===<br /> The antenna mount uses 1/4-20 hardware. I recommend replacing two of the nuts with wingnuts. Cut an 11 foot piece of Belden 8219 RG58A/U and loop it twice through two Laird LFB187102 ferrites as shown in the photo below. The coax fits tightly and we do not want to stretch it while pulling it through the ferrites so use a non-petroleum lubricant (I used cooking spray). Once this is done you can put UG-175/U reducers on the cable and solder a PL259 connector on each end.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_choke.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is spooled on a (2) Coleman 827E140T colthesline reels (thanks to Richard WA6KYR for finding these). Each Coleman reel comes with 21 feet of nylon cord. Pull all the cord out and cut off 13 feet so there is 8 feet remaining on the spool. Attach 59 1/2 feet of 22AWG insulated hookup wire to the end of the nylon cord. You can do this by stripping the end of the wire and pushing it through the middle of the nylon cord about 1/2 inch from the end, then secure the end of the nylon cord by lightly melting it with a lighter or soldering iron. Now you can reel in the wire. If it gets stuck you can open the reel with a 1/3 turn of the enclosure shell. Attach a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal to the end of the wire.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you are wondering why we use 59 1/2 feet it is because its the only length available that is reasonably close for loading at 75-80m and is not an even 1/2-wavelength multiple of any amateur band from 6m-40m (in fact we can go +/- 3 feet before bumping into one of these multiples. You should be able to roll this out to full length and tune any amateur band from 80m-6m. It also makes a good antenna to use with ALE and our RF-sensing tuner.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Battery===<br /> Each battery pack is made of (4) 40160S LiFePO4 cells (3.2V 16Ah) with a battery management circuit put into a Huggies wipe box.<br /> The battery management circuit sits on top of a plastic board which is an Akro-Mils 40150 (3.3 x 7.7 x 0.1 inch). Mount the batteries in the plastic holders, wire them in series with the bus bars, mount the battery management circuit, then wire it in. I recommend using a 30 amp fuse as pictured. Once this is done attach a 30A (12-14AWG) Powerpole connector with 12-gauge wire. The battery management circuit will charge the battery up to 14.2v before it automatically cuts off. The charger should be at least 14.6v.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each 40160S cell is rated at 3.65V (Max Charge), 3.2V (Nominal), and 2.0V (Discharge cut off).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Max charge current is 5C (80A) and max discharge current is 10C (160A).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cell life is rated at 2000 charge/discharge cycles under normal use.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete battery pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Data Interface===<br /> The data interface consists of audio isolation transformers, an RS232 level converter, and a PTT transistor. The audio circuit is per the &quot;KK7UQ Interface Model II&quot; circuit although I chose not to use the potentiometers and solid state relay in the original design. The original design and documentation can be found here:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://kk7uq.com/html/download/Manual2E.pdf<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The RS232 level converter is per a circuit attributed to OE1RIB.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I decided not to go with the Yaseu CT62 cable because I wanted the ability to use the DTR line for PTT (which is much cleaner for automated CW than keying with serial commands). Don't get me wrong here, I prefer a key, however flexibility was one of the design goals. I modified the level converter circuit to take power from the radio rather than trying to rob it from DTR/CTS with diodes. There is also a DPDT toggle switch on the back of the data interface which is an &quot;OFF&quot; switch (cuts the power from the radio and cuts the PTT line). I looked at off-the-shelf interfaces and most of them were either too big or required power for the audio circuitry.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Use a USB-serial converter if your computer doesn't have a serial port. I recommend using converters with the FTDI chipset for best performance and OS compatibility (I used USBG-RS232-F12 from usbgear.com).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the actual circuit I used to build the data interface:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to leave clearance for the jacks and switches when laying out the components on the PC board.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Velcro attachment<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Mounted to radio<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To connect the interface box to the radio I used a short piece of cat5 network cable wired like this&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT RD W-Br&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT TD W-G&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT + Br-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT GND G-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Data Out12 O-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data In W-Bl&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data PTT W-O&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data GND Bl-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The mini-din connectors go in very tight so beware of non-functioning or partial connections when you do this. Once you get them seated properly they work great and stay in place. Make sure to notch the back of the connector sleeves so the cables can exit at 90 degrees. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In the above photo you will also notice a connector/adapter contraption covered with electrical tape. These UHF right-angle adapters were used because the radio rests on its back side in the pack and we don't want the weight of the radio sitting on a PL259 connector and pinching the coax. All UHF right-angle adapters are not created equal. Most of them are garbage and use a small internal spring to connect the center conductor. The correct part to use is Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U. The adapter connecting the radio to the tuner is two of the Amphenol right-angle adapters connected with a short piece of LMR-600 with the center conductor diameter ground down from 0.176&quot; to 0.157&quot;. The length of the LMR600 and the mounting position of the tuner are critical because you don't want to obstruct the ports on the rear of the radio. As you can see in the photo below, this arrangement makes the back of the radio very compact which helps it fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_back.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Power Wiring===<br /> On the power supply you can add a third powerpole connector which is jumped to ground. When the third connector is also done on the radio side (connected to the radio brown wire) it forces the radio to 20W when plugged into the supply. This is good because our power supply is only rated for 7.5 amps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The power cable is 24 inches of 12-gauge red/black zipcord with a third wire for sensing low-power mode. Additionally it has a 16 inch length of zipcord for the tuner with a 2.5x5.5mm right-angle connector. As with the OEM cable, the 12-gauge cable splits off into two 14-gauge cables at the connector. You will notice that there are no fuses on this cable. I didn't bother because all my power sources for the pack are fused. In hindsight it would be prudent to put 30A fuses on both the positive and negative wires.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Third Powerpole connector for low power sense.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Connector end detail<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Monopod===<br /> The monopod is used to elevate the feedpoint of the dipole or a short vertical antenna. It is carbon fiber, weighs only 19oz, and extends to 68&quot;.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The monopod needs to be shortened to fit into the pack. Going around the perimeter of the small end rod, cut off the bottom half of the top rubber cap. This will allow the rod to collapse about an additional 1/2 inch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The bottom cap can be removed by pushing in the two roll pins with a small center punch. Then, with the rod fully collapsed, you will see there is about 13/16 inch you can saw off the big end without hitting the smaller rods that collapse inside of it. The photo below shows it after the cut.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Radio setup===<br /> Here is how I set mine up&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 7.000mhz<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to on.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 19&quot; (CAT Rate). Set it to 9600.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 29&quot; (CW Sidetone). Set it to 5.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 38&quot; (Dig Mode). Set it to PSK31-U.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 59&quot; (Mic Sel). Set it to RMT if you are using the MH-59A8J mic.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 86&quot; (TX IF Filter). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 2.3<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 50.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 144.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 20.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 446.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 10.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Enable 2.3kc filter for TX:<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push FUNC, rotate select to N, press 2.3 (above B key)<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ==Usage==<br /> The most basic setup is pulling the aluminum pack handle up one notch and attaching the mount/antenna. This can be used for a quick base setup or walking around with the pack on your back. The photo below shows the mount and 2m/70cm whip installed. If you want a somewhat useful counterpoise for 6m/2m/70cm without attaching the counterpoise wire, simply invert the feedline such that the chokes are by the radio instead of by the antenna. This way you can use the coax itself for a counterpoise. Its certainly not the best way to do it but it will work.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each aluminum rod is 18&quot; and you can use one of them by itself for a 2m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rods2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you use both rods with the 2m/70cm whip on top you will have a 6m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> You can use the monopod to elevate the a 6m/2m/70cm antenna. We use the carpal tunnel wrist strap to attach the monopod to the packs aluminum handle. The next photo looks like the leaning tower of Pisa because my first prototype was done with a medium-sized wrist strap. I have since moved to a small-sized strap which makes it stand much straighter. The monopod is good for 6m/2m/70cm verticals and for holding the feedpoint of a dipole. Do not use the monopod with the 8-foot antenna rod and/or the large loading coil as it gets too top heavy to remain stable. The following photo shows the ground radials installed and the choke ferrite near the antenna feedpoint. For a simpler setup you can skip the ground radials and invert the feedline (so the choke ferrites are near the radio) which will make the feedline act as a counterpoise. Yes I know this was said earlier in the article but its worth repeating.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_8.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Detail of antenna mount attached to the monopod pole<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_9.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The collapsible antenna by itself will work as a quarter-wave on 10m (pictured below) and should also tune up ok on 12m. It will work as a quarter-wave on 15m if you add the two aluminum extension rods.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Attaching the coil (tapped on the lowest turn) to the antenna base with the two aluminum rods above it will tune down to 80m. This configuration will have near zero efficiency however it will allow short-range communication on 75/80m while walking around with the pack on your back.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The best vertical configuration for 80m thru 17m is attaching the two rods to the base, putting the coil on top of the rods, then putting the collapsible aluminum antenna rod on top. It is best to tilt the pack over on its wheels and assemble the antenna on the ground.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once its assembled, tilt it up by lifting the aluminum arm on the pack. The weight of the batteries do a good job of keeping the antenna in place.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you want to try 160 meters you can remove the 8 foot whip and connect one of the 59-foot wire spools to the top of the coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a dipole configuration you can strap the balun to the top of the monopod and connect our spools of wire to it. Dipoles work best when they are at least 1/4 wave above the ground. Our feedpoint impedance will typically be much less than 50 ohms because in most cases we will be less than 1/4 wave off the ground. This will be especially noticeable on 40m/80m. Attach one wire to the &quot;C&quot; (common) balun terminal and attach the other wire to either the 12, 25, or 50 ohm terminal depending on which one works best. The wire spools use 3/8 ring terminals so we can optionally connect them directly to the vertical antenna mount if you want to feed a dipole directly without the balun.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One other important thing to note about dipoles is its best to keep the ends up off the ground. There is 8 feet of nylon rope at the end of the spools which can help in getting your wire somewhere it can be secured. In my pack I also keep short plastic tent stakes and short bungee cords which can help in some situations.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_10.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> There are a few other odds &amp; ends I keep in the pack. The PL-259 center to ring terminal adapter is for using the voltage balun with the vertical antenna. The Powerpole &quot;Y&quot; cable is for running the AC adapter or solar charger while using the radio. The short 3/8-24 bolt is for attaching a dipole wire directly to the antenna mount or to the top of the coil. There are also two 8-foot stereo cables for the data adapter and a 10-foot serial cable (not pictured). (I chose 8-10' cables to keep the computer RF a little ways away from the radio/antenna). At the bottom is the usb/serial adapter and on the bottom right are short velcro cable ties for attaching the feedline to the monopole and/or aluminum pack handle.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_misc.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is how it all fits into the pack<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_11.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete pack with both batteries and the computer weighs 35 lbs.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The weight can be substantially reduced by removing the spare battery, AC adapter, computer (if you don't need it), and any antenna parts you don't plan on using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In case you are wondering where the CW key/paddles are, I'm still working on finding a solution that works well with this portable setup.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Two that have been recommended are the Mini Paddle from Milestone Technologies and the Traveler Light from Begali.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Parts &amp; Prices==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> $799 FT857D w/YSK857<br /> $95 TCXO-9<br /> $82 MH-59A8J DTMF mic (also needed for direct freq entry)<br /> <br /> $120 W4RT2.3khz ssb filter<br /> $169 Z-11pro2<br /> <br /> $14 IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter (ebay)<br /> $2 bridge rectifier KBPC5010 (ebay)<br /> <br /> $144 (8) 16ah 40160s lifepo4 $24/ea (bmsbattery.com or manzanitamicro.com)<br /> $3 (8) 40160S battery holders 0.40/ea<br /> $4 (8) 40160S bus bar connectors 0.50/ea<br /> $80 battery shipping<br /> <br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> <br /> $97 (2) 30A Battery Management PCB http://www.batteryspace.com/pcbprotectioncircuitmodulefor4cells128vlifepo4batterypackat30alimited.aspx<br /> <br /> $11 USB to serial converter http://www.usbgear.com/computer_cable_details.cfm?sku=USBG-RS232-F12&amp;cats=199&amp;catid=482%2C199%2C601%2C461<br /> <br /> $8 3/8X24 Thread Mirror Mount: Wilson 901104<br /> $5 (20') Belden 8219 (RG58A/U) <br /> $3 (4) Amphenol 83-185-RFX (UG-175 reducer)<br /> $20 (4) Amphenol 83-822 (PL259)<br /> $10 shipping (theantennafarm.com)<br /> <br /> $79 Jansport Driver 8 TN89-008 UPC 757969203361 Wheeled Backpack (buy.com)<br /> <br /> $6 dual-band (2/440) whip with 3/8x24 mount (hamstick EDBW-1, Opek DB-1, or Workman DB-1) <br /> $4 (2) WORKKW2000A or CONXPARTSA (this is the power cord and connector pins)<br /> $3 (6 feet) Red &amp; Black DC wire 12 GA<br /> $9 shipping (k1cra.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (3') LMR-600 (showmecables.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 nuts (7/16&quot; head)<br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts<br /> $2 (8) 1/4&quot;-20 wingnuts<br /> $9 (10') 4&quot; drainpipe (we need one 7 3/4&quot; piece)<br /> $4 (2) 4&quot; drainpipe cap (home depot)<br /> <br /> $20 (5) littelfuse FHA30 12AWG inline fuse holder<br /> $3 (1) 5-pack of ATO 7.5 fuse (drillspot.com)<br /> <br /> $3 4' 14 gauge cable (for short part of radio power connector) (.62/ft)<br /> $1 4' 18 gauge cable (for battery sense +/- to pcb, low power wire on power cable) (.31/ft)<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (22-18) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $4 (1) 1/4&quot; (16-14) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (12-10) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $10 shipping (parts-express.com)<br /> <br /> (1) DB9F mouser 156-1309 0.80<br /> (4) BC546A mouser 512-BC546A 0.10<br /> (2) 5.6k 1/4w mouser 588-OD562JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (3) 10k 1/4w mouser 588-OD103JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (1) 3.5mm 3-pin plug (cw) (2 wires used) mouser 568-NYS231BG 1.69 (for cw jack)<br /> (1) 8-pin mini-din (cat) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2608 1.49<br /> (1) 6-pin mini-din (data) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2606 1.36<br /> (2) 600ohm 1:1 transformer mouser 42TL016-RC 1.66<br /> (2) 51 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD510JE 0.42<br /> (1) 1uf cap mouser 5989-100V1.0-F 0.71<br /> (1) .0047uf cap mouser 140-50P5-472K-RC 50v ceramic disc 0.12<br /> (1) 100 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD101JE 0.42 carbon comp 5%<br /> (1) 1k 1/4w mouser 588-OD102JE 0.42<br /> (1) board mouser 854-PR1593K $4.10 2.6 x 2.6<br /> (1) box mouser 546-1593KBK $2.88 (box is 2.6 x 2.6 x 1.1)<br /> (2) 2.2k resistor 1/2w carbon comp 5% mouser 588-OF222JE (1/4w mouser 588-OD222JE 0.42 not avail)<br /> (4) PL259 right angle Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U Mouser 523-83-1AP $14.70/ea<br /> (1) 2.5x5.5mm right angle plug (24AWG) power plug for tuner mouser 171-3216-EX $1.04/ea<br /> (2) ferrites - mouser 875-LFB187102-000 3.03/ea 3/4&quot; OD .400&quot; ID 1.125&quot; long (3 turns RG58 = 1000 ohm impedance @ 1-5mhz)<br /> (2) mouser 526-WH22-00-100 100' 22awg copper 7-strand hookup wire black nteinc.com $19 (use p/n 03-100 for orange) insulation OD 0.060&quot;<br /> (2) 3.5mm stereo jacks 502-35RAPC3BV4 2.73<br /> $112 total<br /> $12 shipping (mouser.com)<br /> <br /> $8 (1) 14-pack 3/8 ring terminal 16-14AWG (JT&amp;T 2011H - amazon.com)<br /> $18 (2) 8ft 3.5mm stereo cables (mediabridge - amazon.com)<br /> $3 21/64 (.3281&quot;) drill bit for 3/8-24 threads (amazon.com)<br /> $28 3' Aluminum 6061-T6 Seamless Round Tubing, WW-T 700/6, 1/2&quot; OD, 1/4&quot; ID, 1/8&quot; Wall, 36&quot; Length (amazon.com)<br /> $65 Opteka CFM300 68&quot; 5 Section 8x Carbon Fiber Monopod (amazon.com)<br /> $209 (1) PowerFilm F15-1200 20W solar panel 10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6 1 lb (amazon.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (4) EZ-Hook XM (digi-key 461-1004-ND)<br /> <br /> $2 Akro-Mils plastic dividers (Akro-Mils 40150 wasserstrom.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (8) 3/8-24 Jam Nuts 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (2) 3/8-24 Hex Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $10 (5) 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (10) 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer 316 Stainless Steel<br /> $7 shipping (fastener-warehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $7 (5') 1/4&quot; schedule 80 PVC pipe (usplastic.com)<br /> <br /> $14 (2) coleman 827E140T colthesline reel (coleman.com)<br /> <br /> $58 AT-271A/PRC antenna (ebay) OR $58 Voile Tourlight Avalanche Probe (8 foot) (voile-usa.com)<br /> Alternatively there are threaded snow probes at: http://us-warehouse.genuineguidegear.com/collections/probes/products/solid-probes<br /> <br /> $2 (2) 6&quot; tent stakes (rei.com)<br /> $2 (1) 4-pack of 10&quot; bungee cords (rei.com)<br /> $8 tax/shipping (rei.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) F-125-K Toroid Core 1.25&quot; 250-300 permeability low loss ferrite 1-30 mhz (theaudioguru.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (1) 1/4 lb Wire, 16ga (0.05&quot;) enameled (we need 4 feet for toroid) (allspectrum.com or jameco.com)<br /> <br /> $20 (1) 79-87283 DonJoy COMFORTFORM WRIST support-Small right (expressorthopedics.com - warning, it takes them a month to ship it)<br /> <br /> $8 Cables To Go 52030 - 6ft DB9 M/F All Lines Extension Cable Black (nextwarehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) 85085K8 25-pack nylon edge trim .065 gap width 3/16 opening, 15/64 height, 12 3/4 long<br /> $23 (1) 8871K71 80' (1 lb) spool .064&quot; (14ga) tin coated copper wire (spool says Arcor 14AWG)<br /> $2 (1) 91187A202 1.5&quot; 5/16-18 RHT stainless stud (or you can order a 10-pack for $4.55 with part number 95412A587)<br /> $10 (2) 95412A659 5-pack of 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud<br /> $9 tax/shipping (mcmaster.com)<br /> <br /> ==========<br /> $2518 approximate cost<br /> <br /> <br /> $? (1) stickyback velcro (attach tuner to radio mount)<br /> <br /> $? (1) velcro wire ties (attach coax to antenna mast)<br /> <br /> $? (1) 3/8-24 tap<br /> $? (1) 5/16-18 tap<br /> $? (1) Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box (for balun) 3x2x1&quot;<br /> <br /> $? (4) 30A (12-14AWG) red/black powerpole connector (1 for radio, 2 for batteries, 1 for AC/DC power supply)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==More Information==<br /> Here are some websites with great ideas for building backpack radios:<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://ec1cw.blogspot.com/2012/12/my-ft-857d-manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/321107979094<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_22/665730_Build_your_own_HF_manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://hfpack.com/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://pinztrek.com/radio/hfpack/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.dbbear.com/k0emt/projant/hfpack/</div> Sat, 16 May 2015 13:45:30 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:W7KI_Manpack_Radio http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/AT%26T_Microwave_Sites_in_Central_Oregon <p>Rich:&#32;/* Maupin */</p> <hr /> <div>These are some old AT&amp;T Microwave sites in Oregon.<br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> ==Hoodoo Butte==<br /> <br /> The Hoodoo Butte site is at the HooDoo ski resort, on the back side of the hill near the top of the chair lift.<br /> The ski resort is on Hwy 20 about 19 miles west of Sisters, Oregon (near Santiam Pass).<br /> The tower has been extended to about twice its original height.<br /> Photo taken 5-9-2005.<br /> <br /> AT&amp;T Hoodoo Butte<br /> http://www.interceptradio.com/files/wiki/05090505.jpg<br /> <br /> ==Long Butte==<br /> <br /> The Long Butte site is on top of Long Butte halfway between Bend &amp; Redmond.<br /> You can see it looking West from Highway 97. The maintenance logs inside the building show<br /> the last AT&amp;T entries were from 1988. Some of the microwave antennas were recently removed for scrap.<br /> Photo taken 2-4-2006.<br /> <br /> AT&amp;T Long Butte<br /> http://www.interceptradio.com/files/wiki/06020401.jpg<br /> <br /> ==John Day==<br /> <br /> The John Day passive reflector is near downtown John Day. To see it, go about 1 block south on Hwy 395<br /> from the junction of Hwy 26 and you will see it up on a hill to your right. More information about<br /> the passive reflector is available on Albert's site:<br /> http://www.long-lines.net/places-routes/JohnDayPR_OR/index.html .<br /> Photos taken 1-26-2006.<br /> <br /> John Day passive reflector (as seen from highway)<br /> http://www.interceptradio.com/files/wiki/06012604.jpg<br /> <br /> John Day passive reflector (close-up)<br /> http://www.interceptradio.com/files/wiki/06012605.jpg<br /> <br /> ==Dayville==<br /> <br /> The Dayville site is a couple miles east of Dayville. You can see it to the south from Hwy 26.<br /> Photo taken 1-26-2006.<br /> <br /> AT&amp;T Dayville (wide angle from highway)<br /> http://www.interceptradio.com/files/wiki/06012601.jpg<br /> <br /> AT&amp;T Dayville (partial zoom)<br /> http://www.interceptradio.com/files/wiki/06012602.jpg<br /> <br /> AT&amp;T Dayville (full zoom)<br /> http://www.interceptradio.com/files/wiki/06012603.jpg<br /> <br /> ==Maupin==<br /> <br /> The AT&amp;T Maupin site is on the west side of Hwy 197 (milepost 57) on the top of<br /> Criterion Summit (about 5 miles south of Maupin).<br /> <br /> AT&amp;T sold the site to ATC (American Tower). ATC did nothing with it and sold it as a surplus<br /> site to a company in Washington called &quot;F2W LLC&quot;.<br /> <br /> According to Dan Fiest (WA7QMV) at F2W:<br /> <br /> - This is one of the few &quot;hardened&quot; (more or less nuke-proof) sites in Oregon.<br /> - This site was considered a &quot;switching&quot; site which is why its much bigger than the other sites.<br /> - Construction is concrete poured over steel.<br /> - Its a two-level building. One level is underground. Each level is 6000 square feet.<br /> - There is a small third level above the main mezzazine area.<br /> - There are two 100kw diesel generators on the lower level.<br /> - The site had two 10,000 gallon underground diesel tanks. AT&amp;T removed them in 1992.<br /> - There are two 3500-gallon fiberglass-lined water tanks on the lower level.<br /> - There are two 400-foot water wells on the property that deliver 14 gallons per minute.<br /> - The air conditioning capacity is 88 tons.<br /> - The electrical service is 1200 amp 3-phase.<br /> - The site has a 30kw hot-water heater.<br /> - There are three restrooms.<br /> - AT&amp;T removed all the microwave transmitter equipment.<br /> - There is a diesel incinerator onsite.<br /> <br /> Photos taken 12-26-05 &amp; 1-15-06<br /> <br /> AT&amp;T Maupin - Approaching from South. Nice clear shot of building/tower<br /> http://www.interceptradio.com/files/wiki/05122609.jpg&quot;<br /> <br /> AT&amp;T Maupin - Antennas close up<br /> http://www.interceptradio.com/files/wiki/05122608.jpg&quot;<br /> <br /> AT&amp;T Maupin - approaching from North<br /> http://www.interceptradio.com/files/wiki/05122601.jpg&quot;<br /> <br /> AT&amp;T Maupin - closer shot from North<br /> http://www.interceptradio.com/files/wiki/05122602.jpg&quot;<br /> <br /> AT&amp;T Maupin - Building<br /> http://www.interceptradio.com/files/wiki/05122603.jpg&quot;<br /> <br /> AT&amp;T Maupin - Interested in buying it ?<br /> http://www.interceptradio.com/files/wiki/05122606.jpg&quot;<br /> <br /> AT&amp;T Maupin - Incinerator stack<br /> http://www.interceptradio.com/files/wiki/05122607.jpg&quot;<br /> <br /> AT&amp;T Maupin - Generators in basement<br /> http://www.interceptradio.com/files/wiki/MaupinGenerators.jpg&quot;<br /> <br /> AT&amp;T Maupin - Power Plant<br /> http://www.interceptradio.com/files/wiki/MaupinPowerPlant.jpg&quot;<br /> <br /> AT&amp;T Maupin - Building exterior<br /> http://www.interceptradio.com/files/wiki/MaupinShelter.jpg&quot;<br /> <br /> AT&amp;T Maupin - Stairs from basement<br /> http://www.interceptradio.com/files/wiki/MaupinStairs.jpg&quot;<br /> <br /> AT&amp;T Maupin - Upstairs<br /> http://www.interceptradio.com/files/wiki/MaupinUpstairs.jpg&quot;<br /> <br /> AT&amp;T Maupin - Water tank in basement<br /> http://www.interceptradio.com/files/wiki/MaupinWater.jpg&quot;</div> Thu, 19 Feb 2015 19:55:13 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:AT%26T_Microwave_Sites_in_Central_Oregon http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Jack_Gerritsen_KG6IRO <p>Rich:&#32;</p> <hr /> <div>(This article is about Jack Gerritsen of Bell, CA who had the amateur radio callsign KG6IRO)<br /> <br /> Jack Gerritsen was well known in Southern California for jamming radio communications. Here is a timeline:<br /> <br /> Decemeber 1999<br /> Arrested by the CHP for jamming police radios from his home in Bell, CA.<br /> <br /> June 2000<br /> Convicted of the above charge. Placed on probation.<br /> <br /> June 2001<br /> Applied for an amateur radio license. Issued a Technician-class license with the callsign KG6IRO.<br /> Almost immediately the FCC received complaints about his on-air behavior so they rescinded his license based on the complaints and because of his earlier conviction.<br /> <br /> July 2001<br /> Local police forwarded more complaints about his on-air behavior to the FCC. Again the FCC advised him that his license was not valid.<br /> <br /> January 2002<br /> Arrested for violating his probation (illegally using radios), sentenced to 18 months in prison.<br /> <br /> June 2003<br /> Released from prison, he begins jamming police radio, ham radio, and business band radio.<br /> <br /> November 2003<br /> FCC traces illegal transmissions as originating from his home. The FCC cited him for using a radio without a license.<br /> <br /> February 2004<br /> FCC traces illegal transmissions as originating from his home (again). The FCC issued a $10,000 fine against him.<br /> <br /> June 2004<br /> FCC traces illegal transmissions jamming the 147.435 repeater as originating from his home.<br /> <br /> July 2004<br /> FCC receives complaints that he is jamming the 146.985 and 147.105 repeaters.<br /> <br /> September 2004<br /> FCC receives complaints that he is jamming a Catalina Island repeater net, traces the transmissions as originating from his home.<br /> <br /> October 2004<br /> FCC receives a complaint that he is jamming a Catalina Island repeater while it was being used by the Coast Guard in an attempt to reach a ship that had lost radio contact and was in possible distress. FCC traces the jamming transmissions as originating from his home.<br /> <br /> December 2004<br /> The FCC issued a $21,000 fine against him for jamming ham repeaters from June 2004 to September 2004.<br /> <br /> January 2005<br /> The FCC issued a $21,000 fine against him for jamming the Catalina Island repeater in October 2004.<br /> <br /> February 2005<br /> He is observed jamming an American Red Cross radio net and an Army MARS radio net.<br /> <br /> April 2005<br /> He is observed on a local repeater making terrorist threats to a licensed ham and his family members.<br /> <br /> May 2005<br /> The FBI and FCC pay him a visit at his home in Bell, CA. He is arrested and his radio equipment was confiscated.<br /> He is indicted with six federal charges in regard to using a radio without a license and jamming radio transmissions.<br /> <br /> July 2005<br /> He is convicted in state court of making terrorist threats from the April 2005 incidents and sentenced to 4 months in county jail.<br /> <br /> September 2005<br /> He is released from county jail on the state charges.<br /> <br /> December 2005<br /> He is convicted on various charges from the May 2005 arrest.<br /> <br /> September 2006<br /> He is sentenced to 7 years in federal prison.<br /> <br /> July 2009<br /> He appeals his conviction claiming the government erred in allowing him to represent himself in court. The appeals court upholds his conviction.<br /> <br /> March 2012<br /> He is released from federal prison.<br /> <br /> April 2012<br /> Incessant jamming, playing of rap music, and repeated belching is heard on the 147.435 repeater.</div> Fri, 16 Jan 2015 20:35:48 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:Jack_Gerritsen_KG6IRO http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Jack_Gerritsen_KG6IRO <p>Rich:&#32;</p> <hr /> <div>(This article is about Jack Gerritsen of Bell, CA who had the amateur radio callsign KG6IRO)<br /> <br /> Jack Gerritsen was well known in Southern California for jamming radio communications. Here is a timeline:<br /> <br /> Decemeber 1999<br /> Arrested by the CHP for jamming police radios from his home in Bell, CA.<br /> <br /> June 2000<br /> Convicted of the above charge. Placed on probation.<br /> <br /> June 2001<br /> Applied for an amateur radio license. Issued a Technician-class license with the callsign KG6IRO.<br /> Almost immediately the FCC received complaints about his on-air behavior so they rescinded his license based on the complaints and because of his earlier conviction.<br /> <br /> July 2001<br /> Local police forwarded more complaints about his on-air behavior to the FCC. Again the FCC advised him that his license was not valid.<br /> <br /> January 2002<br /> Arrested for violating his probation (illegally using radios), sentenced to 18 months in prison.<br /> <br /> June 2003<br /> Released from prison, he begins jamming police radio, ham radio, and business band radio.<br /> <br /> November 2003<br /> FCC traces illegal transmissions as originating from his home. The FCC cited him for using a radio without a license.<br /> <br /> February 2004<br /> FCC traces illegal transmissions as originating from his home (again). The FCC issued a $10,000 fine against him.<br /> <br /> June 2004<br /> FCC traces illegal transmissions jamming the 147.435 repeater as originating from his home.<br /> <br /> July 2004<br /> FCC receives complaints that he is jamming the 146.985 and 147.105 repeaters.<br /> <br /> September 2004<br /> FCC receives complaints that he is jamming a Catalina Island repeater net, traces the transmissions as originating from his home.<br /> <br /> October 2004<br /> FCC receives a complaint that he is jamming a Catalina Island repeater while it was being used by the Coast Guard in an attempt to reach a ship that had lost radio contact and was in possible distress. FCC traces the jamming transmissions as originating from his home.<br /> <br /> December 2004<br /> The FCC issued a $21,000 fine against him for jamming ham repeaters from June 2004 to September 2004.<br /> <br /> January 2005<br /> The FCC issued a $21,000 fine against him for jamming the Catalina Island repeater in October 2004.<br /> <br /> February 2005<br /> He is observed jamming an American Red Cross radio net and an Army MARS radio net.<br /> <br /> May 2005<br /> The FBI and FCC pay him a visit at his home in Bell, CA. He is arrested and his radio equipment was confiscated.<br /> He is indicted with six federal charges in regard to using a radio without a license and jamming radio transmissions.<br /> <br /> July 2005<br /> He is sentenced (in state court) to 4 months in county jail. These were state charges separate from the FBI/FCC federal charges.<br /> <br /> September 2005<br /> He is released from county jail on the state charges.<br /> <br /> December 2005<br /> He is convicted on various charges from the May 2005 arrest.<br /> <br /> September 2006<br /> He is sentenced to 7 years in federal prison.<br /> <br /> July 2009<br /> He appeals his conviction claiming the government erred in allowing him to represent himself in court. The appeals court upholds his conviction.<br /> <br /> March 2012<br /> He is released from federal prison.<br /> <br /> April 2012<br /> Incessant jamming, playing of rap music, and repeated belching is heard on the 147.435 repeater.</div> Fri, 05 Dec 2014 21:10:33 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:Jack_Gerritsen_KG6IRO http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Jack_Gerritsen_KG6IRO <p>Rich:&#32;</p> <hr /> <div>(This article is about Jack Gerritsen of Bell, CA who had the amateur radio callsign KG6IRO)<br /> <br /> Jack Gerritsen was well known in Southern California for jamming radio communications. Here is a timeline:<br /> <br /> Decemeber 1999<br /> Arrested by the CHP for jamming police radios from his home in Bell, CA.<br /> <br /> June 2000<br /> Convicted of the above charge. Placed on probation.<br /> <br /> June 2001<br /> Applied for an amateur radio license. Issued a Technician-class license with the callsign KG6IRO.<br /> Almost immediately the FCC received complaints about his on-air behavior so they rescinded his license based on the complaints and because of his earlier conviction.<br /> <br /> July 2001<br /> Local police forwarded more complaints about his on-air behavior to the FCC. Again the FCC advised him that his license was not valid.<br /> <br /> January 2002<br /> Arrested for violating his probation (illegally using radios), sentenced to 18 months in prison.<br /> <br /> June 2003<br /> Released from prison, he begins jamming police radio, ham radio, and business band radio.<br /> <br /> November 2003<br /> FCC traces illegal transmissions as originating from his home. The FCC cited him for using a radio without a license.<br /> <br /> February 2004<br /> FCC traces illegal transmissions as originating from his home (again). The FCC issued a $10,000 fine against him.<br /> <br /> June 2004<br /> FCC traces illegal transmissions jamming the 147.435 repeater as originating from his home.<br /> <br /> July 2004<br /> FCC receives complaints that he is jamming the 146.985 and 147.105 repeaters.<br /> <br /> September 2004<br /> FCC receives complaints that he is jamming a Catalina Island repeater net, traces the transmissions as originating from his home.<br /> <br /> October 2004<br /> FCC receives a complaint that he is jamming a Catalina Island repeater while it was being used by the Coast Guard in an attempt to reach a ship that had lost radio contact and was in possible distress. FCC traces the jamming transmissions as originating from his home.<br /> <br /> December 2004<br /> The FCC issued a $21,000 fine against him for jamming ham repeaters from June 2004 to September 2004.<br /> <br /> January 2005<br /> The FCC issued a $21,000 fine against him for jamming the Catalina Island repeater in October 2004.<br /> <br /> February 2005<br /> He is observed jamming an American Red Cross radio net and an Army MARS radio net.<br /> <br /> May 2005<br /> The FBI and FCC pay him a visit at his home in Bell, CA. He is arrested and his radio equipment was confiscated.<br /> He is indicted with six federal charges in regard to using a radio without a license and jamming radio transmissions.<br /> <br /> July 2005<br /> He is sentenced (in state court) to 4 months in county jail. These were state charges separate from the FBI/FCC federal charges.<br /> <br /> September 2005<br /> He is released from county jail on the state charges.<br /> <br /> December 2005<br /> He is convicted on various charges from the May 2005 arrest.<br /> <br /> September 2006<br /> He is sentenced to 7 years in federal prison.<br /> <br /> July 2009<br /> He appeals his conviction claiming the government erred in allowing him to represent himself in court. The appeals court upholds his conviction.<br /> <br /> March 2012<br /> He is released from federal prison.</div> Fri, 05 Dec 2014 04:00:09 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:Jack_Gerritsen_KG6IRO http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Jack_Gerritsen_KG6IRO <p>Rich:&#32;</p> <hr /> <div>(This article is about Jack Gerritsen of Bell, CA who had the amateur radio callsign KG6IRO)<br /> <br /> Jack Gerritsen was well known in Southern California for jamming radio communications. Here is a timeline:<br /> <br /> Decemeber 1999<br /> Arrested by the CHP for jamming police radios from his home in Bell, CA.<br /> <br /> June 2000<br /> Convicted of the above charge. Placed on probation.<br /> <br /> June 2001<br /> Applied for an amateur radio license. Issued a Technician-class license with the callsign KG6IRO.<br /> Almost immediately the FCC received complaints about his on-air behavior so they rescinded his license based on the complaints and because of his earlier conviction.<br /> <br /> July 2001<br /> Local police forwarded more complaints about his on-air behavior to the FCC. Again the FCC advised him that his license was not valid.<br /> <br /> January 2002<br /> Arrested for violating his probation (illegally using radios), sentenced to 18 months in prison.<br /> <br /> June 2003<br /> Released from prison, he begins jamming police radio, ham radio, and business band radio.<br /> <br /> November 2003<br /> FCC traces illegal transmissions as originating from his home. The FCC cited him for using a radio without a license.<br /> <br /> February 2004<br /> FCC traces illegal transmissions as originating from his home (again). The FCC issued a $10,000 fine against him.<br /> <br /> June 2004<br /> FCC traces illegal transmissions jamming the 147.435 repeater as originating from his home.<br /> <br /> July 2004<br /> FCC receives complaints that he is jamming the 146.985 and 147.105 repeaters.<br /> <br /> September 2004<br /> FCC receives complaints that he is jamming a Catalina Island repeater net, traces the transmissions as originating from his home.<br /> <br /> October 2004<br /> FCC receives a complaint that he is jamming a Catalina Island repeater while it was being used by the Coast Guard in an attempt to reach a ship that had lost radio contact and was in possible distress. FCC traces the jamming transmissions as originating from his home.<br /> <br /> December 2004<br /> The FCC issued a $21,000 fine against him for jamming ham repeaters from June 2004 to September 2004.<br /> <br /> January 2005<br /> The FCC issued a $21,000 fine against him for jamming the Catalina Island repeater in October 2004.<br /> <br /> February 2005<br /> He is observed jamming an American Red Cross radio net and an Army MARS radio net.<br /> <br /> May 2005<br /> The FBI and FCC pay him a visit at his home in Bell, CA. He is arrested and his radio equipment was confiscated.<br /> He is indicted with six federal charges in regard to using a radio without a license and jamming radio transmissions.<br /> <br /> July 2005<br /> He is sentenced (in state court) to 4 months in county jail. These were state charges separate from the FBI/FCC federal charges.<br /> <br /> September 2005<br /> He is released from county jail on the state charges.<br /> <br /> December 2005<br /> He is convicted on various charges from the May 2005 arrest.<br /> <br /> September 2006<br /> He is sentenced to 7 years in federal prison.<br /> <br /> July 2009<br /> He appeals his conviction claiming the government erred in allowing him to represent himself in court. The appeals court upholds his conviction.</div> Fri, 05 Dec 2014 03:57:39 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:Jack_Gerritsen_KG6IRO http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Jack_Gerritsen_KG6IRO <p>Rich:&#32;</p> <hr /> <div>(This article is about Jack Gerritsen of Bell, CA who had the amateur radio callsign KG6IRO)<br /> <br /> Jack Gerritsen was well known in Southern California for jamming radio communications. Here is a timeline:<br /> <br /> Decemeber 1999<br /> Arrested by the CHP for jamming police radios from his home in Bell, CA.<br /> <br /> June 2000<br /> Convicted of the above charge. Placed on probation.<br /> <br /> June 2001<br /> Applied for an amateur radio license. Issued a Technician-class license with the callsign KG6IRO.<br /> Almost immediately the FCC received complaints about his on-air behavior so they rescinded his license based on the complaints and because of his earlier conviction.<br /> <br /> July 2001<br /> Local police forwarded more complaints about his on-air behavior to the FCC. Again the FCC advised him that his license was not valid.<br /> <br /> January 2002<br /> Arrested for violating his probation (illegally using radios), sentenced to 18 months in prison.<br /> <br /> June 2003<br /> Released from prison, he begins jamming police radio, ham radio, and business band radio.<br /> <br /> November 2003<br /> FCC traces illegal transmissions as originating from his home. The FCC cited him for using a radio without a license.<br /> <br /> February 2004<br /> FCC traces illegal transmissions as originating from his home (again). The FCC issued a $10,000 fine against him.<br /> <br /> June 2004<br /> FCC traces illegal transmissions jamming the 147.435 repeater as originating from his home.<br /> <br /> July 2004<br /> FCC receives complaints that he is jamming the 146.985 and 147.105 repeaters.<br /> <br /> September 2004<br /> FCC receives complaints that he is jamming a Catalina Island repeater net, traces the transmissions as originating from his home.<br /> <br /> October 2004<br /> FCC receives a complaint that he is jamming a Catalina Island repeater while it was being used by the Coast Guard in an attempt to reach a ship that had lost radio contact and was in possible distress. FCC traces the jamming transmissions as originating from his home.<br /> <br /> December 2004<br /> The FCC issued a $21,000 fine against him for jamming ham repeaters from June 2004 to September 2004.<br /> <br /> January 2005<br /> The FCC issued a $21,000 fine against him for jamming the Catalina Island repeater in October 2004.<br /> <br /> February 2005<br /> He is observed jamming an American Red Cross radio net and an Army MARS radio net.<br /> <br /> May 2005<br /> The FBI and FCC pay him a visit at his home in Bell, CA. He is arrested and his radio equipment was confiscated.<br /> He is indicted with six federal charges in regard to using a radio without a license and jamming radio transmissions.<br /> <br /> July 2005<br /> He is sentenced (in state court) to 4 months in jail. These were state charges separate from the FBI/FCC federal charges.<br /> <br /> December 2005<br /> He is convicted on various charges from the May 2005 arrest.<br /> <br /> September 2006<br /> He is sentenced to 7 years in federal prison.<br /> <br /> July 2009<br /> He appeals his conviction claiming the government erred in allowing him to represent himself in court. The appeals court upholds his conviction.</div> Fri, 05 Dec 2014 03:52:20 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:Jack_Gerritsen_KG6IRO http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/WA_State <p>Rich:&#32;/* Mutual Aid, State Ops, I-Call, and I-Tac */</p> <hr /> <div>==Washington State statewide frequencies==<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/radiomap.gif Puget Sound repeater sites]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/service_area_map.pdf Puget Sound Energy service area map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div-pa.gif BNSF Western Washington map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div_nw.pdf BNSF Pacific NW states map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.kellykeeton.com/radio/NWWAmilepost.pdf Western WA Milepost map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/NR/rdonlyres/8CFBC47D-3549-4CB9-9DE6-14CE9739671F/0/RailSystemMap_Aug2007.pdf Washington state DOT rail system map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Marine Radio==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> 156.250 5A VTS Port Angeles<br /> 156.350 7 Foss Tugs<br /> 156.350 7A Port of Seattle VTS ?<br /> 156.450 9 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.500 10 Red Stack Tugs<br /> 156.600 12 USN Bangor Operations<br /> 156.650 13 Bridges<br /> 156.700 14 VTS, Puget Sound south of Whidbey Is.<br /> 156.800 16 Calling/Distress<br /> 156.900 18 Vessel Assist &quot;Primary&quot;<br /> 156.950 19 Argosy Tour Boats<br /> 157.050 21 USCG Air Operations<br /> 157.100 22 USCG Surface Operations<br /> 157.150 23A US Coast Guard Port Ops, some SeaFair usage<br /> 161.900 26 Radiotelephone - Seattle<br /> 161.950 27 Radiotelephone - BC Tel<br /> 162.000 28 Radiotelephone - Bellingham<br /> 156.275 65 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.325 66 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.375 67 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.425 68 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.475 69 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.525 70 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.625 72 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.675 73 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.725 74 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.875 77 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.975 79A Washington State Ferries<br /> 157.075 81 USCG Special Operations (SeaFair, etc.)<br /> 157.175 83 USCG Special Operations<br /> 157.175 83A US Coast Guard Auxiliary<br /> 161.825 84 Vancouver Coast Guard<br /> 161.875 85 Radiotelephone - Tumwater<br /> 161.975 87 Radiotelephone - Whidbey Island<br /> <br /> (VTS means Vessel Traffic System)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Weather Radio==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> 161.650 Canada - Vancouver Coast Guard radio (channel 21B) transmitter on Mt. Park<br /> 162.400 CFA240 Canada - Vancouver/Victoria<br /> 162.400 WXL86 NOAA Spokane<br /> 162.425 WWJ24 NOAA Maynard Pk. (Puget Sound Marine wx)<br /> 162.425 KXI27 NOAA Forks<br /> 162.425 WWH27 NOAA Plymouth<br /> 162.450 WWF56 NOAA Richland<br /> 162.475 WXM62 NOAA Bawfaw Pk. (Olympia area)<br /> 162.475 Canada - Victoria<br /> 162.475 WXM48 NOAA Wenatchee<br /> 162.525 WWF49 NOAA Tunk Mt. (Okanogan area)<br /> 162.550 KHB60 NOAA Cougar Mt. (Puget Sound area)<br /> 162.550 KIH36 NOAA Neah Bay<br /> 162.550 KIG75 NOAA Yakima<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Washington State Patrol==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> S = simplex, R = Repeater output CTCSS tones in parenthesis ()<br /> <br /> District 1: Pierce &amp; Thurston County<br /> HQ: Tacoma<br /> Detachments: Gig Harbor, Olympia<br /> <br /> 1 TAC-W 155.520 S Pierce Co. Dispatch (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 TAC-E 154.740 S North &amp; NE Pierce Co. (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 5 OLYMPIA 154.920 S Thurston Co. Dispatch (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 6 D1 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 7 LERN 155.370 S (100.0) <br /> 8 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 2: King County <br /> HQ: Bellevue<br /> Detachments: Bellevue, Enumclaw, Seattle North, Seattle South<br /> <br /> 1 SEA-N 155.580 R (100.0) King Co. Dispatch (input 158.790 PL 100.0)<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S<br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S<br /> 4 SEA-S 154.680 R (100.0) South King Co. (input 151.115 PL 100.0)<br /> 5 SEA-E 155.580 R (100.0) same as ch.1<br /> 6 D2 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 100.0 PL)<br /> 7 WESTIN 155.970 R State (input 159.075 PL 100.0)<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> District 3: Yakima, Benton, Franklin, Walla Walla, Columbia, Garfield, Asotin County<br /> HQ: Union Gap<br /> Detachments: Kennewick, Grandview, Walla Walla<br /> <br /> 1 YAKIMA 154.920 R (173.8) (input 159.075 PL 173.8) Yakima Co., Garfield Co.<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 KENWICK 155.520 S (mobiles use 173.8 PL) Benton Co., Franklin Co., Walla Walla Co.<br /> 5 WHT PAS 155.970 R (77.0) (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 6 PUF RPT 155.970 R (173.8) (input 158.790 PL 173.8)<br /> 7 D3 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 173.8PL)<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 4: Spokane, Ferry, Stevens, Pend Oreille, Lincoln, Adams, Whitman County<br /> HQ: Spokane<br /> <br /> Detachments: Colfax, Colville, Ritzville<br /> Spokane Port of Entry - RR1 Westbound I-90, Milepost 299<br /> <br /> 1 SPOKANE 154.905 R NAC D40 SPOKANE AREA<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S ANALOG <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S ANALOG <br /> 4 COLVILLE 154.665 S NAC D40 COLVILLE, REPUBLIC, <br /> 5 STEPTOE 154.845 S NAC D40 STEPTOE BUTTE, LIND, CRESTON (West I-90,West SR2, South SR195).<br /> 6 PULL-ST 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 7 CALISPEL 155.970 R 156.7 PEND OREILLE NEWPORT (CALISPEL PEAK).<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S CAR/CAR N/E COUNTIES <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 5: Lewis, Klickitat, Cowlitz, Clark, Skamania, Wahkiakum County<br /> HQ: Vancouver<br /> Detachments: Chehalis, Goldendale, Kelso, Morton<br /> Ridgefield Port of Entry - 29317 Interstate 5, Ridgefield, WA<br /> <br /> 1 VANCOUV 154.680 R (input 155.580 PL 136.5) Clark &amp; Skamania Co.<br /> 2 CAR 3 154.755 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL)<br /> 3 CHEHALS 155.850 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL) Lewis Co.<br /> 4 KELSO 154.770 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL) Cowlitz Co.<br /> 5 GOLDALE 154.665 R (input 155.580 PL 136.5) Klickitat Co.<br /> 6 SUMMIT 155.970 R (77.0) (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 7 TOUTLE 155.970 R (88.5) (input 158.790 PL 136.5)<br /> 8 D5 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 136.5 PL)<br /> 9 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 10 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 6: Chelan, Okanogan, Kittitas, Douglas, Grant County<br /> HQ: Wenatchee<br /> Detachments: Cle Elum (CVD), Ellensburg, Moses Lake, Okanogan<br /> <br /> 1 WENATCH 154.935 R (123.0) (input 158.985 PL 123.0) Chelan Co., Douglas Co.<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 OKANOGN 154.680 R (123.0) (input 159.045 PL 123.0) Okanogan Co.<br /> 5 ELLENS 154.770 R (123.0) (input 155.850 PL 123.0) Kittitas Co.<br /> 6 EPHRATA 155.505 R (123.0) (input 154.695 PL 123.0) Grant Co.<br /> 7 SLATEPK 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 110.9)<br /> 8 STEV E 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 123.0)<br /> 9 D6 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 123.0 PL)<br /> 10 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 11 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> District 7: Snohomish, Skagit, Whatcom, San Juan, Island County<br /> HQ: Marysville<br /> Detachments: Bellingham, Burlington, Monroe, Oak Harbor, Silver Lake<br /> Bow Hill POE - I-5 Southbound milepost 236 (Bow) (Scale 33)<br /> Silverlake - Milepost 188 Southbound I-5, Everett, WA<br /> <br /> 1 EVERETT 155.655 R (141.3) (input 154.845 PL 141.3) Snohomish Co. &amp; Camano Is.<br /> 2 CAR 4 154.935 S<br /> 3 MT VERN 155.505 R (141.3) (input 159.045 PL 141.3) Skagit Co. &amp; Whidbey Is.<br /> 4 BELNGHM 154.755 R (141.3) (input 155.250 PL 141.3) Whatcom Co.<br /> 5 SHUKSAN 154.755 R (141.3) (input 158.790 PL 141.3)<br /> 6 CASCADE 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 173.8)<br /> 7 STEV W 155.970 R (input 154.845 PL 141.3)<br /> 8 D7 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 141.3 PL)<br /> 9 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 10 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> #7 = District HQ in Marysville<br /> 710 = Detachment Office at Silver Lake Rest Area.<br /> 711 = Detachment Office in Monroe<br /> 712 = Detachment Office in Mount Vernon<br /> 713 = Detachment Office in Bellingham<br /> 714 = Detachment Office in Oak Harbor<br /> <br /> Scale 38 is I-5 Northbound milepost 214<br /> <br /> District 8: Clallam, Jefferson, Grays Harbor, Pacific, Mason, Kitsap County<br /> HQ: Bremerton<br /> Detachments: Bremerton, Hoquiam, Port Angeles, Naselle, Shelton<br /> Naselle - 797 SR4, Naselle, WA <br /> <br /> 1 BREMRTN 154.665 R (110.9) (input 159.075 PL 110.9) Kitsap &amp; Mason Co.<br /> 2 CAR 4 154.935 S<br /> 3 PT ANG 154.770 S (110.9) Clallam &amp; Jefferson Co.(&quot;Gardiner&quot;) <br /> 4 HOQUIAM 154.695 S (mobiles use 110.9 PL) Grays Harbor &amp; Pacific Co. (&quot;Capitol&quot;)<br /> 5 CLR WTR 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 110.9)<br /> 6 D8 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 110.9 PL)<br /> 7 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 8 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> 'Hoquiam' = Grays Harbor Co.<br /> 'Naselle' or 'Astoria' = Pacific Co.<br /> <br /> <br /> All areas:<br /> 151.040 S WSP to DOT simplex (mountain passes)<br /> 155.970 R (none) State common (input 159.075)<br /> 155.970 S Simplex activity in various areas<br /> 155.970 S Liquor control board field agents<br /> 159.045 misc. on-scene ops (Eastern WA)<br /> 159.075 S F-28 old Aircraft freq.<br /> 151.115 S F-29 Link to DOT 800mhz radio system (Stevens Pass)(input to 154.680 WSP Seattle S)<br /> 155.445 S F-30<br /> 156.075 S F-32 Commercial Vehicle Enforcement (Scales) &amp; Youth Ecology Corps<br /> 158.985 S F-33 <br /> 159.105 S F-35<br /> 155.250 S F-36<br /> 156.135 S OSCCR<br /> 453.475 MDT or AVLS<br /> 453.925 MDT or AVLS<br /> 460.175 MDT<br /> 460.250 MDT<br /> 460.425 MDT<br /> 460.475 MDT<br /> 155.700 WSP Tac Squad (patrol cars do not have access to this channel)<br /> <br /> <br /> State Fish &amp; Wildlife DNR State Common (159.420) or other DNR frequencies. <br /> <br /> <br /> B(oy)- Capitol Security units bike patrol<br /> D(avid)- Detectives<br /> J(ay)- Employee of outside agency<br /> K(ing)- Canine unit<br /> M(ary)- Motorcycle unit<br /> O(cean)- Off Duty unit<br /> X- Non-Trooper WSP employee<br /> W/Wildlife- WDFW<br /> L/Liquor- WSLCB<br /> P/Parks- Park Rangers<br /> T/Tom- WSDOT Incident Response/Service Patrol<br /> F/Forest- USFS units<br /> C/Corrections- DOC Corrections Officers/Buses<br /> LI/Labor- L&amp;I Investigators<br /> H/Homeland- DHS<br /> G/Gaming- Gambling Commission Agents<br /> R/Reclamation- BLM units<br /> BN/Burlington Northern- BNSF RR Police<br /> UP/Union Pacific- UPRR Police<br /> CA/Child Admin- DSHS/CPS<br /> <br /> 1- WSP Chief<br /> 2- WSP Deputy Chief<br /> 3-5 WSP Assistant Chiefs<br /> 7-39 WSP Captains<br /> 21-28 District Commanders <br /> 40-99 Lieutenants<br /> 100-299 Sergeants<br /> 300 and up Troopers<br /> S-5 Department Pschologist<br /> S-9 Communications Division Administrator <br /> S14-22 Special Deputy<br /> <br /> X14-99 Electronic Services<br /> X101- Communications Division Assistant Administrator<br /> X-108 Communications Training Program Manager<br /> X111-118 Communications Station Managers<br /> X119-149 Communications Supervisors (Comm Off-3)<br /> X150-199 Communications Officer-2 (Trainers)<br /> X200-329 Communications Officers, Comm Off-1, Comm Off Assistants<br /> X330-339 Supply Section/Propery Management<br /> X340-379 Fire Protection<br /> X380-389 Misc<br /> X390-399 Evidence Control<br /> X400-419 Fleet<br /> X420-426 ACCESS/WACIC<br /> X427-458 IT<br /> X459-474 Identification<br /> X475-499 Property Management<br /> X500-599 Crime Lab<br /> X600-679 VIN Inspectors<br /> X680-689 MAIT<br /> X690-694 Aviation Unit<br /> X695-699 Breath Test<br /> X700-899 CVEO<br /> X900-999 CVEO Motor Carrier Safety Assistance Program<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Aircraft frequencies==<br /> <br /> <br /> (Aircraft freqs that can be heard from the Puget Sound area)<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/atc.jpg Washington State air traffic control VHF frequency map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/atc.bmp printable bitmap of the above map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> NDB (ADF) freqs can be found in the frequency database: &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/s.php?sfreq=4&amp;stype=B&amp;ssort=1&amp;cfreq=1&amp;cstate=1&amp;ccity=1&amp;z=1 NDB database]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/XX/arinc600a.jpg Enroute freqs for international flights (shortwave)]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/XX/arinc.jpg Older 1983 shortwave map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> 108.0 - 117.975 VOR/DME/ILS navigation<br /> 110.6 PAE Paine Field VOR/DME<br /> 111.5 IAWO unknown - probably Arlington airport<br /> 113.7 YYJ Saltspring Island VOR<br /> 116.8 SEA Sea-Tac VOR/DME<br /> <br /> 118.0 - 121.4 ATC &amp; ATIS<br /> 118.0 Sea-Tac ATIS <br /> 118.1 Portland Appr<br /> 118.2 Whidbey Appr<br /> 118.3 BFI Tower<br /> 118.5 Tacoma Tower (Rwy 17)<br /> 118.55 Seattle Center (Yakima)<br /> 118.9 BFI Clearance Delivery<br /> 119.1 ? Possibly Victoria Tower<br /> 119.2 Sea-Tac Departure<br /> 119.5 Seattle Appr <br /> 119.65 Seattle Center (The Dalles)<br /> 119.7 Victoria Tower<br /> 119.9 Sea-Tac Tower<br /> 120.1 Seattle Appr <br /> 120.2 Paine Tower<br /> 120.3 Seattle Center (Beacon Hill)<br /> 120.4 Seattle Appr <br /> 120.6 BFI Tower<br /> 120.7 Whidbey Appr<br /> 121.1 Seattle Center Appr/Dep<br /> 121.125 Skagit Regional (AWOS)<br /> 121.2 Bremerton ATIS<br /> 121.35 Seattle Center (Oregon area?)<br /> <br /> 121.5 Emergency &amp; ELT<br /> <br /> 121.6 - 121.9 Ground Control<br /> <br /> 121.7 Sea-Tac Ground Control<br /> 121.75 ? Ground Control - unknown airport<br /> 121.8 ? Possibly Paine Field ground control<br /> <br /> 121.95 - 122.675 FSS &amp; misc.<br /> 122.1 Nanaimo FSS<br /> 122.55 Seattle FSS<br /> <br /> 122.7 - 123.2 Unicom &amp; misc.<br /> 122.7 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Arlington, Bremerton, Sequim, Hoquiam, Kenmore (seaplanes)<br /> <br /> 122.775 Traffic Helicopters (primary)<br /> <br /> 122.8 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Anacortes, Friday Harbor, Oak Harbor, Blaine, Chehalis-Centralia, Auburn,<br /> Thun Field (Puyallup), Sky Harbor (Sultan), Sanderson Field (Shelton)<br /> <br /> 123.0 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Kent, Snohomish (Harvey Field), Burlington, Pt. Townsend<br /> <br /> 123.025 Unicom - Helicopters (local Traffic Helicopters secondary)<br /> <br /> 123.2 - 123.675 Misc.<br /> 123.275 Boeing test flights<br /> 123.3 Gliders<br /> 123.5 Gliders<br /> <br /> 123.7 - 128.8 ATC &amp; ATIS<br /> 123.7 Comox Terminal<br /> 123.8 Chinook Appr<br /> 123.9 Seattle Appr<br /> 124.05 Tacoma Narrows ATIS<br /> 124.2 Seattle Center (Scappoose)<br /> <br /> 124.4 Olympia Tower<br /> 124.65 Gray AAF (Ft. Lewis) ATIS<br /> 124.7 Renton Tower<br /> 124.8 McChord Tower (Rwy 34)<br /> 124.9 Bellingham Tower<br /> 125.1 Seattle Center (Neah Bay) - Olympic Peninsula<br /> 125.6 Seattle Center (approaching aircraft 16k-9k)<br /> 125.8 Seattle Center (Horton)<br /> 125.9 Seattle Appr<br /> 125.95 Vancouver Center <br /> 126.1 Seattle Center (Wenatchee)<br /> 126.125 Vancouver Terminal<br /> 126.2 Gray Tower (Rwy 15)<br /> 126.5 Seattle Appr<br /> 126.6 Seattle Center (Larch Mtn) - areas South and East of Tacoma<br /> 126.95 Renton ATIS<br /> 127.1 Advisory Freq - not sure what area it covers<br /> 127.75 Boeing Field ATIS<br /> 127.8 Victoria Terminal VFR (simulcast on 133.85)<br /> 128.0 Sea-Tac Clearance Delivery<br /> 128.15 Seattle Center (Redmond, OR / Scappoose)<br /> 128.25 San Juan Advisory freq<br /> to quote Colin... &quot;All aircraft in the San Juan Island areas are<br /> encouraged to monitor and report on this freq&quot;<br /> 128.3 Seattle Center (Larch Mtn) - Olympia and Elma area<br /> 128.45 Seattle Center (Mullan Pass)<br /> 128.5 Seattle Center (Ft. Lawton) - airspace under 6000 ft<br /> 128.6 Vancouver Appr<br /> 128.65 Paine Field ATIS<br /> 128.75 ?<br /> <br /> 128.825 - 132.05 Corporate en-route &amp; ACARS<br /> <br /> Inbound flights usually report in about 10 to 15 minutes before landing. <br /> An inbound flight usually will make fuel requests (if needed) and give<br /> ETA. The base will respond with a gate assignment.<br /> <br /> Outbound flights usually report in about 5 to 10 minutes after takeoff.<br /> An outbound flight will report takeoff time, fuel status, passenger load,<br /> and cargo weight.<br /> <br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Sun Country Airlines<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Aeroflot<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Omni Air Int'l (handled by Premier Avai 1 ground services)<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Martinair (outbound) (handled by Slatterly ground services)<br /> 128.825 Portland Aero Air (FBO) Learjet maintenance<br /> 128.9 BFI Airpac Airlines<br /> 128.9 Vancouver Cathay Pacific (inbound)<br /> 128.925 Sea-Tac Signature (FBO) fueling &amp; ground transportation<br /> 128.95 Vancouver Kelowna Flightcraft (Purolator)<br /> 128.975 ? unknown airline (outbound) to Penticton/Cranbrook<br /> 129.0 Sea-Tac Air Canada (handled by United)<br /> 129.0 Vancouver Canada 3000 Airlines ('Elite xxx')<br /> 129.025 BFI Galvin Flight Services (FBO)<br /> 129.1 ? Light aircraft operating in the Vancouver area<br /> 129.2 ? Canadian planes - some flights going to Calgary<br /> 129.2 ? &quot;Timber 1&quot; and &quot;Timber 2&quot; - possibly Timberline Air or Kwatna Timber<br /> 129.2 ? inbound to sea-tac<br /> 129.225 Sea-Tac American Airlines<br /> 129.325 Sea-Tac Horizon Airlines<br /> 129.375 Sea-Tac Casino Express<br /> 129.4 Sea-Tac ARINC - San Francisco Radio<br /> 129.425 BFI UPS (also Vancouver, Victoria, Pt. Angeles)<br /> 129.45 Vancouver America West Airlines (handled by United)<br /> 129.45 Vancouver United Airlines and United Express (Skywest)<br /> 129.5 Sea-Tac United Airlines<br /> 129.5 Sea-Tac Shuttle by United ('Air Coach xxx')<br /> 129.5 Portland Delta Airlines<br /> 129.55 Victoria Canadian Airlines (outbound)<br /> 129.575 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 129.6 Sea-Tac American Trans Air ('Amtran xxx')<br /> 129.6 Sea-Tac Omni Air (inbound) calling Slattery Ground Services - no response<br /> 129.7 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 129.725 Sea-Tac Cargolux Air Freight<br /> 129.775 Vancouver Air Canada (outbound ops)<br /> 129.825 Seattle Airlift NW (helicopters), also Lear 359EF doing patient transport<br /> 129.85 ARINC - San Francisco Radio<br /> 129.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines (maintenance)<br /> 129.925 Sea-Tac Continental Airlines<br /> 130.0 Air Canada - possibly inbound for Penticton<br /> 130.025 ACARS data<br /> 130.05 Sea-Tac British Airways<br /> 130.1 Sea-Tac Delta Airlines<br /> 130.1 Sea-Tac Vanguard Airlines<br /> 130.125 ? Light aircraft operating in the San Juans<br /> 130.15 Portland American Airlines<br /> 130.175 Vancouver/Victoria Air Canada<br /> 130.200 Vancouver British Airways<br /> 130.225 Sea-Tac old TWA freq. Unknown if used now.<br /> 130.25 Sea-Tac Kitty Hawk (Air freight)<br /> 130.275 ? ?<br /> 130.3 Kenmore Air Harbor &amp; Lake Union Air<br /> 130.35 Vancouver Air Canada<br /> 130.375 ? (Canada - inbound to Richmond)<br /> 130.45 Sea-Tac Scandinavian Airlines<br /> 130.45 Sea-Tac China Airlines ('Dynasty xxx')<br /> 130.475 Vancouver Air Canada ? (maintenance)<br /> 130.5 Portland Alaska Airlines<br /> 130.525 Bellingham United Express<br /> 130.575 Vancouver West Jet<br /> 130.6 ?<br /> 130.625 San Juans West Isle Air<br /> 130.65 Sea-Tac National Airlines ('Red Rock xxx')<br /> 130.65 ? unknown airline '125' calling operations<br /> 130.675 Vancouver Continental Airlines<br /> 130.7 ? small commercial passenger planes going to Vancouver Harbor &amp; Victoria -<br /> probably Harbour Air Seaplanes, might be Baxter Air...<br /> 130.7 Sea-Tac Scandinavian Airlines (inbound)<br /> 130.725 Sea-Tac Horizon Airlines/Big Sky Airlines (inbound), Northwest Airlines<br /> 130.75 ACARS data<br /> 130.8 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 130.825 Sea-Tac Frontier Airlines<br /> 130.85 Sea-Tac Southwest Airlines<br /> 130.875 Sea-Tac Alaska Airlines (outbound)<br /> 130.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines/Air Canada (outbound)<br /> 130.925 Sea-Tac America West Airlines ('Cactus xxx')<br /> 130.95 ? unknown airline (outbound) '1240'<br /> 131.0 BFI Airborne Express ('ABEX xxx') maintenance<br /> 131.025 ? - light aircraft or helicopter w/fuel requests<br /> 131.05 Sea-Tac United Express (Skywest)<br /> 131.15 Sea-Tac US Air<br /> 131.2 Sea-Tac Alaska Airlines (inbound)<br /> 131.25 Vancouver Helijet Airways<br /> 131.275 ? unknown commercial airliners - Vancouver<br /> 131.35 Portland Horizon Airlines<br /> 131.4 ?<br /> 131.425 Sea-Tac EVA Air<br /> 131.45 ? (Canada)<br /> 131.475 ACARS data (Air Canada)<br /> 131.525 ? unknown airline - San Juans, BFI, Pt. Townsend, Friday Harbor - scenic flights<br /> possibly Vashon Island Air<br /> 131.55 ACARS data (primary)<br /> 131.6 Sea-Tac old Harbor Airlines freq. Unknown if used now.<br /> 131.6 San Juans Harbor Airlines<br /> 131.625 Sea-Tac DHL ('Reliant xxx')<br /> 131.675 ? (Canada - outbound) '103' calling operations<br /> 131.7 Sea-Tac Northwest Airlines (inbound)<br /> 131.7 Sea-Tac Hawaiian Airlines (inbound) - handled by Northwest<br /> 131.725 Sea-Tac Evergreen Air Freight<br /> 131.75 BFI Aeroflight<br /> 131.75 bonanza 82159 calling unknown base station<br /> 131.8 ? ?<br /> 131.825 Paine Field FedEx (secondary when they can't contact on 131.925)<br /> 131.825 ? ? (maintenance)<br /> 131.85 ? ?<br /> 131.875 Vancouver West Jet<br /> 131.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines (maintenance)<br /> 131.925 FedEx (Sea-Tac, Portland, Paine Field)<br /> 131.925 Sea-Tac Empire Airlines (outbound)<br /> 131.95 ? ?<br /> 132.0 Vancouver Alaska Airlines<br /> 132.0 Bellingham Horizon (inbound)<br /> 132.025 BFI Flight Center (FBO)<br /> <br /> 132.075 - 136.475 ATC &amp; ATIS&lt;<br /> 132.075 Seattle Center (Horton)<br /> 132.2 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.3 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.4 ?<br /> 132.6 Seattle Center (Yakima)<br /> 132.7 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.95 Paine Tower<br /> 133.0 Portland Appr<br /> 133.1 ?<br /> 133.5 Vancouver Center<br /> 133.65 Sea-Tac Appr<br /> 133.7 Vancouver Center<br /> 133.85 Victoria Appr (Victoria Terminal main VFR freq) simulcast on 127.8<br /> 133.95 Victoria Terminal (north - Nanaimo)<br /> 134.15 Ault Field (Whidbey Island) ATIS<br /> 134.4 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.55 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.8 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.95 Seattle Center (Whidbey Island) - Mt. Vernon/Bellingham area<br /> 135.05 Vancouver Center<br /> 135.1 Whidbey Island NAS Clearance Delivery<br /> 135.45 Seattle Center (The Dalles)<br /> 135.5 Vancouver Center<br /> 135.525 Seattle Center (Beacon Hill)<br /> 135.625 Arlington AWOS<br /> <br /> 136.5 - 136.975 Corporate en-route &amp; ACARS<br /> 136.525 Sea-Tac Emery Air Freight<br /> 136.850 ACARS data<br /> <br /> A real air chart will provide more detailed information than what is listed<br /> here. This is a simple compilation of comm intercepts.<br /> All of these frequencies can be heard from the Puget Sound area.<br /> <br /> Simulcasting is very common in this area for ATC and control towers.<br /> Here are some typical simulcast groups:<br /> <br /> 118.2 / 120.7<br /> 119.2 / 119.5 / 120.4<br /> 119.7 / 121.7<br /> 120.2 / 132.95<br /> 120.3 / 128.5<br /> 120.3 / 125.1 / 126.6 / 135.525<br /> 121.1 / 127.1<br /> 123.9 / 125.9 / 133.65<br /> 125.6 / 125.9 / <br /> 125.1 / 134.95<br /> 125.1 / 128.5 / 134.95<br /> 128.5 / 134.95<br /> <br /> also crossband simulcasting to the UHF military air band:<br /> <br /> 118.3 / 257.8 (BFI Tower)<br /> 119.2 / 284.7 (Sea-Tac Tower)<br /> 120.2 / 132.95 / 287.9 / 339.8 (Paine Tower)<br /> 120.3 / 273.6<br /> 120.4 / 395.0<br /> 123.9 / 338.2<br /> 125.1 / 319.2<br /> 126.6 / 343.6<br /> 128.65 / 387.0 (Paine ATIS)<br /> 134.95 / 270.3<br /> <br /> <br /> Ramp freqs<br /> 452.100 Horizon Airlines Ground<br /> 460.650 Southwest Airlines Ground<br /> 460.675 America West Airlines Ground<br /> 460.700 R (100.0) Alaska Airlines Ground/Maintenance<br /> 460.725 R (203.5) United Airlines Ground<br /> 460.750 R (114.8) Delta Airlines Ground<br /> 460.775 R (100.0) Alaska Airlines Ground<br /> 460.800 Horizon Airlines Ground<br /> 460.850 R (127.3) ?<br /> 460.875 R (192.8) Northwest/Continental Airlines Ground<br /> <br /> <br /> Check out the &quot;Northwest Aircraft Communications&quot; web page for more information.<br /> (Its on the Intercept &quot;Links&quot; page)<br /> <br /> Thanks to Matt, Tad, Dennis &amp; everyone else who contributed info for this page.<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Railroad==<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://www.railroadradio.net railroadradio.net live audio]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div-pa.gif BNSF system map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/bnsflist.htm older BN freq list with channel numbers]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/bnsfd.htm BNSF detector list]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> 160.035 Victoria<br /> 160.215 Tacoma (unverified)<br /> 160.230 Fife Yard or Argo Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.260 Green Mountain repeater. Heard units in Snohomish.<br /> 160.320 supposedly BNSF Delta Yard. Heard miscellaneous simplex comms.<br /> 160.335 unknown usage. Hear data bursts about every 4 minutes.<br /> 160.380 Cascade Tunnel (unverified)<br /> 160.470 Seattle Yard<br /> 160.590 (PBX) Snohomish/Skagit/Whatcom co.<br /> 160.620 (PBX) &quot;MRAS&quot;<br /> 160.650 Balmer Yard, Tacoma Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.665 Operations - Thurston Co.<br /> 160.710 ARES data bursts from trains<br /> 160.725 unknown. Supposedly BNSF<br /> 160.740 Spokane (unverified)<br /> 160.800 Yakima Valley Terminal (unverified)<br /> 160.830 Stacy Yard (unverified), also hear repair crews on this freq.<br /> 160.920 Seattle East<br /> 160.980 South Seattle Ramp (unverified)<br /> 161.010 miscellaneous yard usage<br /> 161.100 BNSF &quot;Seattle East&quot; (Edmonds east to Lyons Wa (Spokane). Also detectors.<br /> 161,100 BNSF &quot;Centralia South&quot; Tenino-Vancouver Jct WA <br /> 161.160 South Seattle Yard. &quot;Seattle Terminal Dispatcher&quot; Tukwila-King Street<br /> 161.250 Delta &amp; Bayside Yard, Bridge 37, Line Everett north to Canada. Also detectors.<br /> 161.250 Harbor Island (unverified)<br /> 161.250 BNSFSwtiching Centralia Yard<br /> 161.250 BNSF Auburn-SP&amp;S Jct (Kennewick) (thanks Don !)<br /> 161.310 Seattle Yard, Balmer Hump, Tacoma Yard (unverified)<br /> 161.370 work crews, &quot;North Service 5&quot;<br /> 161.400 unknown BNSF. Occasional data bursts.<br /> 161.415 BNSF &quot;Centralia North&quot; Tenino-Tukwila<br /> 161.415 CN Joint Vancouver BC (unverified)<br /> 161.460 Puget Sound &amp; Pacific channel 2 (unverified)<br /> 161.475 Puget Sound &amp; Pacific channel 1 Main Ch.<br /> 161.505 Seattle Yard (unverified)<br /> 161.550 appears to be a yard channel.<br /> 457.9125 unknown BNSF<br /> 452.9375 MARY transceiver<br /> 457.9375 FRED transceiver<br /> 452.900 unknown<br /> 452.9125<br /> 452.925/457.925 DPU<br /> 452.950/457.950 DPU <br /> 911.500 &quot;<br /> 918.500 &quot;<br /> <br /> 936.8875, 936.9375, 936.9875 ATCS transmitters - I have yet to hear activity<br /> on these freqs however I've seen 900mhz beam antennas at some local railroad<br /> crossings. <br /> <br /> <br /> Union Pacific<br /> 160.290 (PBX) Haven't heard it in a while. Possibly abandoned.<br /> 160.350 160.410 160.800 Argo Yard and Fife Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.515 &quot;2727&quot; Road Ch. Argo (S Seattle to Reservation, Tacoma)<br /> 160.740 &quot;4242&quot; Road Ch. Eastern Washington (Hinkle Ore to Eastport Id.) <br /> 160.605 (PBX) also some strange tone data bursts<br /> 160.680 Yard channel<br /> 161.235 Thurston County<br /> 160.785 &quot;4545&quot; Road Ch. Cascade Summit Ore to K Falls<br /> <br /> AMTRAK<br /> 160.455 supposedly Amtrak's on-board freq.<br /> 160.620 BNSF/Amtrak (PBX) &quot;MRAS&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> Tacoma Rail<br /> 161.070 <br /> 161.145 (E Olympia-Belmore)<br /> <br /> 160.575 161.190 (unverified)<br /> 161.295 traffic heard-Yard? <br /> 161.445 (Tideflats Yard Tacoma)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Simpson Timber Railroad (Shelton)<br /> 160.440 161.340 <br /> <br /> 160.845 161.085 (unverified)<br /> <br /> <br /> Curtis Milburn Railroad (Thurston Co.)<br /> 160.245 <br /> <br /> <br /> Mt. Rainier Scenic Railroad<br /> 160.635 (unverified)<br /> <br /> Mt. Vernon Terminal Railway<br /> 160.875 (unverified)<br /> <br /> BC Rail<br /> 160.305 BC Rail (Vancouver)<br /> <br /> Puget Sound Historic Railway<br /> 161.355 (unverified)<br /> <br /> Chehalis-Centralia Railroad<br /> no frequencies on file<br /> <br /> Lake Whatcom Railway<br /> <br /> no frequencies on file<br /> <br /> Other<br /> 160.275 unknown. Comes in too weak at my place to copy.<br /> 160.380 units &quot;Quebec Base&quot; and &quot;Papa 3&quot;. No idea who it is.<br /> 160.530 unknown<br /> 160.785 Unknown railroad - rarely used<br /> 160.950 Unknown railroad<br /> 160.980 Unknown railroad. Possibly Canada.<br /> 160.995 repeater input<br /> 161.025 unknown railroad<br /> 161.175 unknown railroad<br /> 161.325 unknown railroad<br /> 161.430 unknown<br /> 161.520 repeater input, also unknown simplex comms.<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Puget Sound Energy==<br /> <br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> S = Simplex R = Repeater PL tone in parentheses ()<br /> <br /> Electric<br /> 153.410 On-scene simplex ?<br /> 153.425 S (103.5) Whidbey Island<br /> 153.440 S (103.5) Puyallup/Buckley area<br /> 153.545 S (103.5) Whatcom Co. &amp; Thurston Co.<br /> 153.605 S (103.5) Kirkland/Redmond<br /> 153.620 S (103.5) Skagit Co. ,(possibly North Bend too, not verified)<br /> 153.635 S (103.5) Pt. Townsend &amp; Vashon Is.<br /> 153.650 S (103.5) Bellevue/Factoria<br /> 153.680 S (103.5) Auburn/South King Co.<br /> 158.130 I haven't copied anything on this freq. Supposedly Kitsap Co.<br /> 158.145 &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; Renton<br /> <br /> 451.050 R (103.5) Radio Shop<br /> 451.1375 Telemetry heard in Bellingham<br /> 451.225<br /> 451.250 R (103.5) Unknown use<br /> 451.700<br /> <br /> <br /> Gas<br /> 900mhz EDACS trunked (EDACS Narrow - 4800 baud)<br /> LCN numbers in parentheses ()<br /> <br /> Capitol Peak (site 1)<br /> ??? <br /> <br /> Gold Mt. (site 2)<br /> 936.3875 (1)<br /> 936.400 (2)<br /> 936.4125 (3)<br /> 936.425 (4)<br /> <br /> Tiger Mt. (site 3)<br /> 936.4375 (1)<br /> 936.450 (2)<br /> 936.4625 (3)<br /> 936.000 (4)<br /> <br /> Gunsite Ridge (Granite Falls) (site 4)<br /> 936.475 (1)<br /> 936.450 (2) <br /> 936.500 (3)<br /> 937.4125 (4)<br /> <br /> Tacoma (28th st) (site 5)<br /> 936.475<br /> <br /> Sumner (White River) (site 6)<br /> 936.900 (1)<br /> (2) is possibly 936.9125<br /> 936.925 (3)<br /> 936.950 (4)<br /> <br /> Columbia (Seattle) (site 7)<br /> 935.450 (1)<br /> 935.4625 (2)<br /> 935.475 (3)<br /> 935.4875 (4)<br /> 935.500 (5)<br /> <br /> Talkgroups<br /> ------------------------------------------------------------------------<br /> Hex Dec AFS:<br /> 0111 273 02-021<br /> 0116 278 02-026<br /> 011A 282 02-032<br /> 011C 284 02-034 appears to be Gas service dispatch<br /> 011D 285 02-035<br /> 011E 286 02-036<br /> 011F 287 02-037 appears to be Gas service dispatch for the Issaquah area<br /> 0121 289 02-041 used in Snohomish county (gas service dispatch)<br /> 0122 290 02-042<br /> 012C 300 02-054 <br /> 0133 307 02-063<br /> 0147 327 02-087<br /> 0163 355 02-123<br /> 0171 369 02-141<br /> <br /> <br /> Notes<br /> Not a lot of traffic on this system. It can be easily scanned without<br /> an EDACS-capable trunking scanner by putting in all the freqs for one<br /> of the sites and then locking out the control channel.<br /> <br /> Thanks to Dennis and Flash for their contributions.<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Mutual Aid, State Ops, I-Call, and I-Tac==<br /> <br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> Mutual-aid channels are available so different<br /> public safety agencies have common channels they<br /> can use to communicate with other agencies.<br /> <br /> 153.830 is the statewide fire mutual aid channel. On the air<br /> you might hear it referred to as &quot;Red Net&quot; or &quot;Firecom&quot;.<br /> Its typically used for comms when multiple fire departments<br /> respond to an incident. Sometimes it will be used within a<br /> department as a spare tactical channel.<br /> <br /> 155.370 is used throughout most of the state as a police<br /> mutual aid channel. Its called &quot;LERN&quot; (Law Enforcement<br /> Radio Network). Basically the same usage rules as &quot;Red Net&quot;.<br /> This is commonly used when there is a police pursuit<br /> involving State Patrol and city/county police departments.<br /> LERN is also patched into the King County regional trunk system.<br /> <br /> 155.475 is the national law enforcement emergency channel (NLEC).<br /> Its rarely used in the Puget Sound area.<br /> <br /> 156.135 is OSCCR - On Scene Command &amp; Coordination Radio. Typically<br /> used by State Patrol at major accident scenes. Occasional<br /> tactical usage by city/county agencies.<br /> <br /> 155.190 is MARS - Mutual Aid Radio. Its a crossband system linking<br /> a VHF repeater, a UHF repeater, and the King County regional<br /> trunk system. Its typically used by agencies with incompatible<br /> radio systems (for example WSP talking to Seattle PD). Its<br /> often used for pursuits and sometimes for the King County<br /> Guardian 1 helicopter.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> State Ops refers to five 800mhz simplex channels. <br /> <br /> I-Call and I-Tac are 800mhz conventional repeaters.<br /> <br /> Some or all of these are programmed into agencies that use 800mhz radios.<br /> Commonly heard users of these freqs are Police, Fire, and State DOT.<br /> <br /> Besides short range on-scene tactical comms, these freqs are also useful<br /> for comms between radios that have incompatible trunking formats (for example<br /> the Johnson MultiNet radios used by State DOT can talk to the Motorola<br /> trunked radios used by King County).<br /> <br /> Since the repeaters are conventional, they could function as a backup during<br /> a catastrophic trunk system failure in addition to site-trunking.<br /> <br /> State Ops, I-Call, and I-Tac use a CTCSS (PL) tone of 156.7<br /> <br /> State Ops<br /> 867.5375 State Ops 1<br /> 867.5625 State Ops 2<br /> 867.5875 State Ops 3<br /> 867.6125 State Ops 4<br /> 867.6375 State Ops 5<br /> <br /> <br /> I-Call and I-Tac<br /> 866.0125 I-Call Squak Mtn.<br /> 866.5125 I-Tac 1 South King County (Cambridge)<br /> 867.0125 I-Tac 2 Bellevue (near Somerset)<br /> 867.5125 I-Tac 3 Seattle (Capitol Hill)<br /> 868.0125 I-Tac 4 Shoreline (Crista Ministries tower)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;</div> Sat, 16 Aug 2014 01:06:35 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:WA_State http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/WA_State <p>Rich:&#32;/* Puget Sound Energy */</p> <hr /> <div>==Washington State statewide frequencies==<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/radiomap.gif Puget Sound repeater sites]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/service_area_map.pdf Puget Sound Energy service area map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div-pa.gif BNSF Western Washington map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div_nw.pdf BNSF Pacific NW states map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.kellykeeton.com/radio/NWWAmilepost.pdf Western WA Milepost map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/NR/rdonlyres/8CFBC47D-3549-4CB9-9DE6-14CE9739671F/0/RailSystemMap_Aug2007.pdf Washington state DOT rail system map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Marine Radio==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> 156.250 5A VTS Port Angeles<br /> 156.350 7 Foss Tugs<br /> 156.350 7A Port of Seattle VTS ?<br /> 156.450 9 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.500 10 Red Stack Tugs<br /> 156.600 12 USN Bangor Operations<br /> 156.650 13 Bridges<br /> 156.700 14 VTS, Puget Sound south of Whidbey Is.<br /> 156.800 16 Calling/Distress<br /> 156.900 18 Vessel Assist &quot;Primary&quot;<br /> 156.950 19 Argosy Tour Boats<br /> 157.050 21 USCG Air Operations<br /> 157.100 22 USCG Surface Operations<br /> 157.150 23A US Coast Guard Port Ops, some SeaFair usage<br /> 161.900 26 Radiotelephone - Seattle<br /> 161.950 27 Radiotelephone - BC Tel<br /> 162.000 28 Radiotelephone - Bellingham<br /> 156.275 65 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.325 66 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.375 67 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.425 68 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.475 69 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.525 70 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.625 72 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.675 73 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.725 74 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.875 77 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.975 79A Washington State Ferries<br /> 157.075 81 USCG Special Operations (SeaFair, etc.)<br /> 157.175 83 USCG Special Operations<br /> 157.175 83A US Coast Guard Auxiliary<br /> 161.825 84 Vancouver Coast Guard<br /> 161.875 85 Radiotelephone - Tumwater<br /> 161.975 87 Radiotelephone - Whidbey Island<br /> <br /> (VTS means Vessel Traffic System)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Weather Radio==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> 161.650 Canada - Vancouver Coast Guard radio (channel 21B) transmitter on Mt. Park<br /> 162.400 CFA240 Canada - Vancouver/Victoria<br /> 162.400 WXL86 NOAA Spokane<br /> 162.425 WWJ24 NOAA Maynard Pk. (Puget Sound Marine wx)<br /> 162.425 KXI27 NOAA Forks<br /> 162.425 WWH27 NOAA Plymouth<br /> 162.450 WWF56 NOAA Richland<br /> 162.475 WXM62 NOAA Bawfaw Pk. (Olympia area)<br /> 162.475 Canada - Victoria<br /> 162.475 WXM48 NOAA Wenatchee<br /> 162.525 WWF49 NOAA Tunk Mt. (Okanogan area)<br /> 162.550 KHB60 NOAA Cougar Mt. (Puget Sound area)<br /> 162.550 KIH36 NOAA Neah Bay<br /> 162.550 KIG75 NOAA Yakima<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Washington State Patrol==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> S = simplex, R = Repeater output CTCSS tones in parenthesis ()<br /> <br /> District 1: Pierce &amp; Thurston County<br /> HQ: Tacoma<br /> Detachments: Gig Harbor, Olympia<br /> <br /> 1 TAC-W 155.520 S Pierce Co. Dispatch (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 TAC-E 154.740 S North &amp; NE Pierce Co. (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 5 OLYMPIA 154.920 S Thurston Co. Dispatch (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 6 D1 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 7 LERN 155.370 S (100.0) <br /> 8 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 2: King County <br /> HQ: Bellevue<br /> Detachments: Bellevue, Enumclaw, Seattle North, Seattle South<br /> <br /> 1 SEA-N 155.580 R (100.0) King Co. Dispatch (input 158.790 PL 100.0)<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S<br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S<br /> 4 SEA-S 154.680 R (100.0) South King Co. (input 151.115 PL 100.0)<br /> 5 SEA-E 155.580 R (100.0) same as ch.1<br /> 6 D2 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 100.0 PL)<br /> 7 WESTIN 155.970 R State (input 159.075 PL 100.0)<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> District 3: Yakima, Benton, Franklin, Walla Walla, Columbia, Garfield, Asotin County<br /> HQ: Union Gap<br /> Detachments: Kennewick, Grandview, Walla Walla<br /> <br /> 1 YAKIMA 154.920 R (173.8) (input 159.075 PL 173.8) Yakima Co., Garfield Co.<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 KENWICK 155.520 S (mobiles use 173.8 PL) Benton Co., Franklin Co., Walla Walla Co.<br /> 5 WHT PAS 155.970 R (77.0) (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 6 PUF RPT 155.970 R (173.8) (input 158.790 PL 173.8)<br /> 7 D3 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 173.8PL)<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 4: Spokane, Ferry, Stevens, Pend Oreille, Lincoln, Adams, Whitman County<br /> HQ: Spokane<br /> <br /> Detachments: Colfax, Colville, Ritzville<br /> Spokane Port of Entry - RR1 Westbound I-90, Milepost 299<br /> <br /> 1 SPOKANE 154.905 R NAC D40 SPOKANE AREA<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S ANALOG <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S ANALOG <br /> 4 COLVILLE 154.665 S NAC D40 COLVILLE, REPUBLIC, <br /> 5 STEPTOE 154.845 S NAC D40 STEPTOE BUTTE, LIND, CRESTON (West I-90,West SR2, South SR195).<br /> 6 PULL-ST 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 7 CALISPEL 155.970 R 156.7 PEND OREILLE NEWPORT (CALISPEL PEAK).<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S CAR/CAR N/E COUNTIES <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 5: Lewis, Klickitat, Cowlitz, Clark, Skamania, Wahkiakum County<br /> HQ: Vancouver<br /> Detachments: Chehalis, Goldendale, Kelso, Morton<br /> Ridgefield Port of Entry - 29317 Interstate 5, Ridgefield, WA<br /> <br /> 1 VANCOUV 154.680 R (input 155.580 PL 136.5) Clark &amp; Skamania Co.<br /> 2 CAR 3 154.755 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL)<br /> 3 CHEHALS 155.850 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL) Lewis Co.<br /> 4 KELSO 154.770 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL) Cowlitz Co.<br /> 5 GOLDALE 154.665 R (input 155.580 PL 136.5) Klickitat Co.<br /> 6 SUMMIT 155.970 R (77.0) (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 7 TOUTLE 155.970 R (88.5) (input 158.790 PL 136.5)<br /> 8 D5 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 136.5 PL)<br /> 9 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 10 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 6: Chelan, Okanogan, Kittitas, Douglas, Grant County<br /> HQ: Wenatchee<br /> Detachments: Cle Elum (CVD), Ellensburg, Moses Lake, Okanogan<br /> <br /> 1 WENATCH 154.935 R (123.0) (input 158.985 PL 123.0) Chelan Co., Douglas Co.<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 OKANOGN 154.680 R (123.0) (input 159.045 PL 123.0) Okanogan Co.<br /> 5 ELLENS 154.770 R (123.0) (input 155.850 PL 123.0) Kittitas Co.<br /> 6 EPHRATA 155.505 R (123.0) (input 154.695 PL 123.0) Grant Co.<br /> 7 SLATEPK 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 110.9)<br /> 8 STEV E 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 123.0)<br /> 9 D6 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 123.0 PL)<br /> 10 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 11 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> District 7: Snohomish, Skagit, Whatcom, San Juan, Island County<br /> HQ: Marysville<br /> Detachments: Bellingham, Burlington, Monroe, Oak Harbor, Silver Lake<br /> Bow Hill POE - I-5 Southbound milepost 236 (Bow) (Scale 33)<br /> Silverlake - Milepost 188 Southbound I-5, Everett, WA<br /> <br /> 1 EVERETT 155.655 R (141.3) (input 154.845 PL 141.3) Snohomish Co. &amp; Camano Is.<br /> 2 CAR 4 154.935 S<br /> 3 MT VERN 155.505 R (141.3) (input 159.045 PL 141.3) Skagit Co. &amp; Whidbey Is.<br /> 4 BELNGHM 154.755 R (141.3) (input 155.250 PL 141.3) Whatcom Co.<br /> 5 SHUKSAN 154.755 R (141.3) (input 158.790 PL 141.3)<br /> 6 CASCADE 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 173.8)<br /> 7 STEV W 155.970 R (input 154.845 PL 141.3)<br /> 8 D7 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 141.3 PL)<br /> 9 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 10 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> #7 = District HQ in Marysville<br /> 710 = Detachment Office at Silver Lake Rest Area.<br /> 711 = Detachment Office in Monroe<br /> 712 = Detachment Office in Mount Vernon<br /> 713 = Detachment Office in Bellingham<br /> 714 = Detachment Office in Oak Harbor<br /> <br /> Scale 38 is I-5 Northbound milepost 214<br /> <br /> District 8: Clallam, Jefferson, Grays Harbor, Pacific, Mason, Kitsap County<br /> HQ: Bremerton<br /> Detachments: Bremerton, Hoquiam, Port Angeles, Naselle, Shelton<br /> Naselle - 797 SR4, Naselle, WA <br /> <br /> 1 BREMRTN 154.665 R (110.9) (input 159.075 PL 110.9) Kitsap &amp; Mason Co.<br /> 2 CAR 4 154.935 S<br /> 3 PT ANG 154.770 S (110.9) Clallam &amp; Jefferson Co.(&quot;Gardiner&quot;) <br /> 4 HOQUIAM 154.695 S (mobiles use 110.9 PL) Grays Harbor &amp; Pacific Co. (&quot;Capitol&quot;)<br /> 5 CLR WTR 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 110.9)<br /> 6 D8 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 110.9 PL)<br /> 7 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 8 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> 'Hoquiam' = Grays Harbor Co.<br /> 'Naselle' or 'Astoria' = Pacific Co.<br /> <br /> <br /> All areas:<br /> 151.040 S WSP to DOT simplex (mountain passes)<br /> 155.970 R (none) State common (input 159.075)<br /> 155.970 S Simplex activity in various areas<br /> 155.970 S Liquor control board field agents<br /> 159.045 misc. on-scene ops (Eastern WA)<br /> 159.075 S F-28 old Aircraft freq.<br /> 151.115 S F-29 Link to DOT 800mhz radio system (Stevens Pass)(input to 154.680 WSP Seattle S)<br /> 155.445 S F-30<br /> 156.075 S F-32 Commercial Vehicle Enforcement (Scales) &amp; Youth Ecology Corps<br /> 158.985 S F-33 <br /> 159.105 S F-35<br /> 155.250 S F-36<br /> 156.135 S OSCCR<br /> 453.475 MDT or AVLS<br /> 453.925 MDT or AVLS<br /> 460.175 MDT<br /> 460.250 MDT<br /> 460.425 MDT<br /> 460.475 MDT<br /> 155.700 WSP Tac Squad (patrol cars do not have access to this channel)<br /> <br /> <br /> State Fish &amp; Wildlife DNR State Common (159.420) or other DNR frequencies. <br /> <br /> <br /> B(oy)- Capitol Security units bike patrol<br /> D(avid)- Detectives<br /> J(ay)- Employee of outside agency<br /> K(ing)- Canine unit<br /> M(ary)- Motorcycle unit<br /> O(cean)- Off Duty unit<br /> X- Non-Trooper WSP employee<br /> W/Wildlife- WDFW<br /> L/Liquor- WSLCB<br /> P/Parks- Park Rangers<br /> T/Tom- WSDOT Incident Response/Service Patrol<br /> F/Forest- USFS units<br /> C/Corrections- DOC Corrections Officers/Buses<br /> LI/Labor- L&amp;I Investigators<br /> H/Homeland- DHS<br /> G/Gaming- Gambling Commission Agents<br /> R/Reclamation- BLM units<br /> BN/Burlington Northern- BNSF RR Police<br /> UP/Union Pacific- UPRR Police<br /> CA/Child Admin- DSHS/CPS<br /> <br /> 1- WSP Chief<br /> 2- WSP Deputy Chief<br /> 3-5 WSP Assistant Chiefs<br /> 7-39 WSP Captains<br /> 21-28 District Commanders <br /> 40-99 Lieutenants<br /> 100-299 Sergeants<br /> 300 and up Troopers<br /> S-5 Department Pschologist<br /> S-9 Communications Division Administrator <br /> S14-22 Special Deputy<br /> <br /> X14-99 Electronic Services<br /> X101- Communications Division Assistant Administrator<br /> X-108 Communications Training Program Manager<br /> X111-118 Communications Station Managers<br /> X119-149 Communications Supervisors (Comm Off-3)<br /> X150-199 Communications Officer-2 (Trainers)<br /> X200-329 Communications Officers, Comm Off-1, Comm Off Assistants<br /> X330-339 Supply Section/Propery Management<br /> X340-379 Fire Protection<br /> X380-389 Misc<br /> X390-399 Evidence Control<br /> X400-419 Fleet<br /> X420-426 ACCESS/WACIC<br /> X427-458 IT<br /> X459-474 Identification<br /> X475-499 Property Management<br /> X500-599 Crime Lab<br /> X600-679 VIN Inspectors<br /> X680-689 MAIT<br /> X690-694 Aviation Unit<br /> X695-699 Breath Test<br /> X700-899 CVEO<br /> X900-999 CVEO Motor Carrier Safety Assistance Program<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Aircraft frequencies==<br /> <br /> <br /> (Aircraft freqs that can be heard from the Puget Sound area)<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/atc.jpg Washington State air traffic control VHF frequency map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/atc.bmp printable bitmap of the above map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> NDB (ADF) freqs can be found in the frequency database: &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/s.php?sfreq=4&amp;stype=B&amp;ssort=1&amp;cfreq=1&amp;cstate=1&amp;ccity=1&amp;z=1 NDB database]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/XX/arinc600a.jpg Enroute freqs for international flights (shortwave)]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/XX/arinc.jpg Older 1983 shortwave map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> 108.0 - 117.975 VOR/DME/ILS navigation<br /> 110.6 PAE Paine Field VOR/DME<br /> 111.5 IAWO unknown - probably Arlington airport<br /> 113.7 YYJ Saltspring Island VOR<br /> 116.8 SEA Sea-Tac VOR/DME<br /> <br /> 118.0 - 121.4 ATC &amp; ATIS<br /> 118.0 Sea-Tac ATIS <br /> 118.1 Portland Appr<br /> 118.2 Whidbey Appr<br /> 118.3 BFI Tower<br /> 118.5 Tacoma Tower (Rwy 17)<br /> 118.55 Seattle Center (Yakima)<br /> 118.9 BFI Clearance Delivery<br /> 119.1 ? Possibly Victoria Tower<br /> 119.2 Sea-Tac Departure<br /> 119.5 Seattle Appr <br /> 119.65 Seattle Center (The Dalles)<br /> 119.7 Victoria Tower<br /> 119.9 Sea-Tac Tower<br /> 120.1 Seattle Appr <br /> 120.2 Paine Tower<br /> 120.3 Seattle Center (Beacon Hill)<br /> 120.4 Seattle Appr <br /> 120.6 BFI Tower<br /> 120.7 Whidbey Appr<br /> 121.1 Seattle Center Appr/Dep<br /> 121.125 Skagit Regional (AWOS)<br /> 121.2 Bremerton ATIS<br /> 121.35 Seattle Center (Oregon area?)<br /> <br /> 121.5 Emergency &amp; ELT<br /> <br /> 121.6 - 121.9 Ground Control<br /> <br /> 121.7 Sea-Tac Ground Control<br /> 121.75 ? Ground Control - unknown airport<br /> 121.8 ? Possibly Paine Field ground control<br /> <br /> 121.95 - 122.675 FSS &amp; misc.<br /> 122.1 Nanaimo FSS<br /> 122.55 Seattle FSS<br /> <br /> 122.7 - 123.2 Unicom &amp; misc.<br /> 122.7 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Arlington, Bremerton, Sequim, Hoquiam, Kenmore (seaplanes)<br /> <br /> 122.775 Traffic Helicopters (primary)<br /> <br /> 122.8 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Anacortes, Friday Harbor, Oak Harbor, Blaine, Chehalis-Centralia, Auburn,<br /> Thun Field (Puyallup), Sky Harbor (Sultan), Sanderson Field (Shelton)<br /> <br /> 123.0 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Kent, Snohomish (Harvey Field), Burlington, Pt. Townsend<br /> <br /> 123.025 Unicom - Helicopters (local Traffic Helicopters secondary)<br /> <br /> 123.2 - 123.675 Misc.<br /> 123.275 Boeing test flights<br /> 123.3 Gliders<br /> 123.5 Gliders<br /> <br /> 123.7 - 128.8 ATC &amp; ATIS<br /> 123.7 Comox Terminal<br /> 123.8 Chinook Appr<br /> 123.9 Seattle Appr<br /> 124.05 Tacoma Narrows ATIS<br /> 124.2 Seattle Center (Scappoose)<br /> <br /> 124.4 Olympia Tower<br /> 124.65 Gray AAF (Ft. Lewis) ATIS<br /> 124.7 Renton Tower<br /> 124.8 McChord Tower (Rwy 34)<br /> 124.9 Bellingham Tower<br /> 125.1 Seattle Center (Neah Bay) - Olympic Peninsula<br /> 125.6 Seattle Center (approaching aircraft 16k-9k)<br /> 125.8 Seattle Center (Horton)<br /> 125.9 Seattle Appr<br /> 125.95 Vancouver Center <br /> 126.1 Seattle Center (Wenatchee)<br /> 126.125 Vancouver Terminal<br /> 126.2 Gray Tower (Rwy 15)<br /> 126.5 Seattle Appr<br /> 126.6 Seattle Center (Larch Mtn) - areas South and East of Tacoma<br /> 126.95 Renton ATIS<br /> 127.1 Advisory Freq - not sure what area it covers<br /> 127.75 Boeing Field ATIS<br /> 127.8 Victoria Terminal VFR (simulcast on 133.85)<br /> 128.0 Sea-Tac Clearance Delivery<br /> 128.15 Seattle Center (Redmond, OR / Scappoose)<br /> 128.25 San Juan Advisory freq<br /> to quote Colin... &quot;All aircraft in the San Juan Island areas are<br /> encouraged to monitor and report on this freq&quot;<br /> 128.3 Seattle Center (Larch Mtn) - Olympia and Elma area<br /> 128.45 Seattle Center (Mullan Pass)<br /> 128.5 Seattle Center (Ft. Lawton) - airspace under 6000 ft<br /> 128.6 Vancouver Appr<br /> 128.65 Paine Field ATIS<br /> 128.75 ?<br /> <br /> 128.825 - 132.05 Corporate en-route &amp; ACARS<br /> <br /> Inbound flights usually report in about 10 to 15 minutes before landing. <br /> An inbound flight usually will make fuel requests (if needed) and give<br /> ETA. The base will respond with a gate assignment.<br /> <br /> Outbound flights usually report in about 5 to 10 minutes after takeoff.<br /> An outbound flight will report takeoff time, fuel status, passenger load,<br /> and cargo weight.<br /> <br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Sun Country Airlines<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Aeroflot<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Omni Air Int'l (handled by Premier Avai 1 ground services)<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Martinair (outbound) (handled by Slatterly ground services)<br /> 128.825 Portland Aero Air (FBO) Learjet maintenance<br /> 128.9 BFI Airpac Airlines<br /> 128.9 Vancouver Cathay Pacific (inbound)<br /> 128.925 Sea-Tac Signature (FBO) fueling &amp; ground transportation<br /> 128.95 Vancouver Kelowna Flightcraft (Purolator)<br /> 128.975 ? unknown airline (outbound) to Penticton/Cranbrook<br /> 129.0 Sea-Tac Air Canada (handled by United)<br /> 129.0 Vancouver Canada 3000 Airlines ('Elite xxx')<br /> 129.025 BFI Galvin Flight Services (FBO)<br /> 129.1 ? Light aircraft operating in the Vancouver area<br /> 129.2 ? Canadian planes - some flights going to Calgary<br /> 129.2 ? &quot;Timber 1&quot; and &quot;Timber 2&quot; - possibly Timberline Air or Kwatna Timber<br /> 129.2 ? inbound to sea-tac<br /> 129.225 Sea-Tac American Airlines<br /> 129.325 Sea-Tac Horizon Airlines<br /> 129.375 Sea-Tac Casino Express<br /> 129.4 Sea-Tac ARINC - San Francisco Radio<br /> 129.425 BFI UPS (also Vancouver, Victoria, Pt. Angeles)<br /> 129.45 Vancouver America West Airlines (handled by United)<br /> 129.45 Vancouver United Airlines and United Express (Skywest)<br /> 129.5 Sea-Tac United Airlines<br /> 129.5 Sea-Tac Shuttle by United ('Air Coach xxx')<br /> 129.5 Portland Delta Airlines<br /> 129.55 Victoria Canadian Airlines (outbound)<br /> 129.575 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 129.6 Sea-Tac American Trans Air ('Amtran xxx')<br /> 129.6 Sea-Tac Omni Air (inbound) calling Slattery Ground Services - no response<br /> 129.7 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 129.725 Sea-Tac Cargolux Air Freight<br /> 129.775 Vancouver Air Canada (outbound ops)<br /> 129.825 Seattle Airlift NW (helicopters), also Lear 359EF doing patient transport<br /> 129.85 ARINC - San Francisco Radio<br /> 129.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines (maintenance)<br /> 129.925 Sea-Tac Continental Airlines<br /> 130.0 Air Canada - possibly inbound for Penticton<br /> 130.025 ACARS data<br /> 130.05 Sea-Tac British Airways<br /> 130.1 Sea-Tac Delta Airlines<br /> 130.1 Sea-Tac Vanguard Airlines<br /> 130.125 ? Light aircraft operating in the San Juans<br /> 130.15 Portland American Airlines<br /> 130.175 Vancouver/Victoria Air Canada<br /> 130.200 Vancouver British Airways<br /> 130.225 Sea-Tac old TWA freq. Unknown if used now.<br /> 130.25 Sea-Tac Kitty Hawk (Air freight)<br /> 130.275 ? ?<br /> 130.3 Kenmore Air Harbor &amp; Lake Union Air<br /> 130.35 Vancouver Air Canada<br /> 130.375 ? (Canada - inbound to Richmond)<br /> 130.45 Sea-Tac Scandinavian Airlines<br /> 130.45 Sea-Tac China Airlines ('Dynasty xxx')<br /> 130.475 Vancouver Air Canada ? (maintenance)<br /> 130.5 Portland Alaska Airlines<br /> 130.525 Bellingham United Express<br /> 130.575 Vancouver West Jet<br /> 130.6 ?<br /> 130.625 San Juans West Isle Air<br /> 130.65 Sea-Tac National Airlines ('Red Rock xxx')<br /> 130.65 ? unknown airline '125' calling operations<br /> 130.675 Vancouver Continental Airlines<br /> 130.7 ? small commercial passenger planes going to Vancouver Harbor &amp; Victoria -<br /> probably Harbour Air Seaplanes, might be Baxter Air...<br /> 130.7 Sea-Tac Scandinavian Airlines (inbound)<br /> 130.725 Sea-Tac Horizon Airlines/Big Sky Airlines (inbound), Northwest Airlines<br /> 130.75 ACARS data<br /> 130.8 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 130.825 Sea-Tac Frontier Airlines<br /> 130.85 Sea-Tac Southwest Airlines<br /> 130.875 Sea-Tac Alaska Airlines (outbound)<br /> 130.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines/Air Canada (outbound)<br /> 130.925 Sea-Tac America West Airlines ('Cactus xxx')<br /> 130.95 ? unknown airline (outbound) '1240'<br /> 131.0 BFI Airborne Express ('ABEX xxx') maintenance<br /> 131.025 ? - light aircraft or helicopter w/fuel requests<br /> 131.05 Sea-Tac United Express (Skywest)<br /> 131.15 Sea-Tac US Air<br /> 131.2 Sea-Tac Alaska Airlines (inbound)<br /> 131.25 Vancouver Helijet Airways<br /> 131.275 ? unknown commercial airliners - Vancouver<br /> 131.35 Portland Horizon Airlines<br /> 131.4 ?<br /> 131.425 Sea-Tac EVA Air<br /> 131.45 ? (Canada)<br /> 131.475 ACARS data (Air Canada)<br /> 131.525 ? unknown airline - San Juans, BFI, Pt. Townsend, Friday Harbor - scenic flights<br /> possibly Vashon Island Air<br /> 131.55 ACARS data (primary)<br /> 131.6 Sea-Tac old Harbor Airlines freq. Unknown if used now.<br /> 131.6 San Juans Harbor Airlines<br /> 131.625 Sea-Tac DHL ('Reliant xxx')<br /> 131.675 ? (Canada - outbound) '103' calling operations<br /> 131.7 Sea-Tac Northwest Airlines (inbound)<br /> 131.7 Sea-Tac Hawaiian Airlines (inbound) - handled by Northwest<br /> 131.725 Sea-Tac Evergreen Air Freight<br /> 131.75 BFI Aeroflight<br /> 131.75 bonanza 82159 calling unknown base station<br /> 131.8 ? ?<br /> 131.825 Paine Field FedEx (secondary when they can't contact on 131.925)<br /> 131.825 ? ? (maintenance)<br /> 131.85 ? ?<br /> 131.875 Vancouver West Jet<br /> 131.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines (maintenance)<br /> 131.925 FedEx (Sea-Tac, Portland, Paine Field)<br /> 131.925 Sea-Tac Empire Airlines (outbound)<br /> 131.95 ? ?<br /> 132.0 Vancouver Alaska Airlines<br /> 132.0 Bellingham Horizon (inbound)<br /> 132.025 BFI Flight Center (FBO)<br /> <br /> 132.075 - 136.475 ATC &amp; ATIS&lt;<br /> 132.075 Seattle Center (Horton)<br /> 132.2 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.3 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.4 ?<br /> 132.6 Seattle Center (Yakima)<br /> 132.7 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.95 Paine Tower<br /> 133.0 Portland Appr<br /> 133.1 ?<br /> 133.5 Vancouver Center<br /> 133.65 Sea-Tac Appr<br /> 133.7 Vancouver Center<br /> 133.85 Victoria Appr (Victoria Terminal main VFR freq) simulcast on 127.8<br /> 133.95 Victoria Terminal (north - Nanaimo)<br /> 134.15 Ault Field (Whidbey Island) ATIS<br /> 134.4 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.55 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.8 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.95 Seattle Center (Whidbey Island) - Mt. Vernon/Bellingham area<br /> 135.05 Vancouver Center<br /> 135.1 Whidbey Island NAS Clearance Delivery<br /> 135.45 Seattle Center (The Dalles)<br /> 135.5 Vancouver Center<br /> 135.525 Seattle Center (Beacon Hill)<br /> 135.625 Arlington AWOS<br /> <br /> 136.5 - 136.975 Corporate en-route &amp; ACARS<br /> 136.525 Sea-Tac Emery Air Freight<br /> 136.850 ACARS data<br /> <br /> A real air chart will provide more detailed information than what is listed<br /> here. This is a simple compilation of comm intercepts.<br /> All of these frequencies can be heard from the Puget Sound area.<br /> <br /> Simulcasting is very common in this area for ATC and control towers.<br /> Here are some typical simulcast groups:<br /> <br /> 118.2 / 120.7<br /> 119.2 / 119.5 / 120.4<br /> 119.7 / 121.7<br /> 120.2 / 132.95<br /> 120.3 / 128.5<br /> 120.3 / 125.1 / 126.6 / 135.525<br /> 121.1 / 127.1<br /> 123.9 / 125.9 / 133.65<br /> 125.6 / 125.9 / <br /> 125.1 / 134.95<br /> 125.1 / 128.5 / 134.95<br /> 128.5 / 134.95<br /> <br /> also crossband simulcasting to the UHF military air band:<br /> <br /> 118.3 / 257.8 (BFI Tower)<br /> 119.2 / 284.7 (Sea-Tac Tower)<br /> 120.2 / 132.95 / 287.9 / 339.8 (Paine Tower)<br /> 120.3 / 273.6<br /> 120.4 / 395.0<br /> 123.9 / 338.2<br /> 125.1 / 319.2<br /> 126.6 / 343.6<br /> 128.65 / 387.0 (Paine ATIS)<br /> 134.95 / 270.3<br /> <br /> <br /> Ramp freqs<br /> 452.100 Horizon Airlines Ground<br /> 460.650 Southwest Airlines Ground<br /> 460.675 America West Airlines Ground<br /> 460.700 R (100.0) Alaska Airlines Ground/Maintenance<br /> 460.725 R (203.5) United Airlines Ground<br /> 460.750 R (114.8) Delta Airlines Ground<br /> 460.775 R (100.0) Alaska Airlines Ground<br /> 460.800 Horizon Airlines Ground<br /> 460.850 R (127.3) ?<br /> 460.875 R (192.8) Northwest/Continental Airlines Ground<br /> <br /> <br /> Check out the &quot;Northwest Aircraft Communications&quot; web page for more information.<br /> (Its on the Intercept &quot;Links&quot; page)<br /> <br /> Thanks to Matt, Tad, Dennis &amp; everyone else who contributed info for this page.<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Railroad==<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://www.railroadradio.net railroadradio.net live audio]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div-pa.gif BNSF system map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/bnsflist.htm older BN freq list with channel numbers]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/bnsfd.htm BNSF detector list]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> 160.035 Victoria<br /> 160.215 Tacoma (unverified)<br /> 160.230 Fife Yard or Argo Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.260 Green Mountain repeater. Heard units in Snohomish.<br /> 160.320 supposedly BNSF Delta Yard. Heard miscellaneous simplex comms.<br /> 160.335 unknown usage. Hear data bursts about every 4 minutes.<br /> 160.380 Cascade Tunnel (unverified)<br /> 160.470 Seattle Yard<br /> 160.590 (PBX) Snohomish/Skagit/Whatcom co.<br /> 160.620 (PBX) &quot;MRAS&quot;<br /> 160.650 Balmer Yard, Tacoma Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.665 Operations - Thurston Co.<br /> 160.710 ARES data bursts from trains<br /> 160.725 unknown. Supposedly BNSF<br /> 160.740 Spokane (unverified)<br /> 160.800 Yakima Valley Terminal (unverified)<br /> 160.830 Stacy Yard (unverified), also hear repair crews on this freq.<br /> 160.920 Seattle East<br /> 160.980 South Seattle Ramp (unverified)<br /> 161.010 miscellaneous yard usage<br /> 161.100 BNSF &quot;Seattle East&quot; (Edmonds east to Lyons Wa (Spokane). Also detectors.<br /> 161,100 BNSF &quot;Centralia South&quot; Tenino-Vancouver Jct WA <br /> 161.160 South Seattle Yard. &quot;Seattle Terminal Dispatcher&quot; Tukwila-King Street<br /> 161.250 Delta &amp; Bayside Yard, Bridge 37, Line Everett north to Canada. Also detectors.<br /> 161.250 Harbor Island (unverified)<br /> 161.250 BNSFSwtiching Centralia Yard<br /> 161.250 BNSF Auburn-SP&amp;S Jct (Kennewick) (thanks Don !)<br /> 161.310 Seattle Yard, Balmer Hump, Tacoma Yard (unverified)<br /> 161.370 work crews, &quot;North Service 5&quot;<br /> 161.400 unknown BNSF. Occasional data bursts.<br /> 161.415 BNSF &quot;Centralia North&quot; Tenino-Tukwila<br /> 161.415 CN Joint Vancouver BC (unverified)<br /> 161.460 Puget Sound &amp; Pacific channel 2 (unverified)<br /> 161.475 Puget Sound &amp; Pacific channel 1 Main Ch.<br /> 161.505 Seattle Yard (unverified)<br /> 161.550 appears to be a yard channel.<br /> 457.9125 unknown BNSF<br /> 452.9375 MARY transceiver<br /> 457.9375 FRED transceiver<br /> 452.900 unknown<br /> 452.9125<br /> 452.925/457.925 DPU<br /> 452.950/457.950 DPU <br /> 911.500 &quot;<br /> 918.500 &quot;<br /> <br /> 936.8875, 936.9375, 936.9875 ATCS transmitters - I have yet to hear activity<br /> on these freqs however I've seen 900mhz beam antennas at some local railroad<br /> crossings. <br /> <br /> <br /> Union Pacific<br /> 160.290 (PBX) Haven't heard it in a while. Possibly abandoned.<br /> 160.350 160.410 160.800 Argo Yard and Fife Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.515 &quot;2727&quot; Road Ch. Argo (S Seattle to Reservation, Tacoma)<br /> 160.740 &quot;4242&quot; Road Ch. Eastern Washington (Hinkle Ore to Eastport Id.) <br /> 160.605 (PBX) also some strange tone data bursts<br /> 160.680 Yard channel<br /> 161.235 Thurston County<br /> 160.785 &quot;4545&quot; Road Ch. Cascade Summit Ore to K Falls<br /> <br /> AMTRAK<br /> 160.455 supposedly Amtrak's on-board freq.<br /> 160.620 BNSF/Amtrak (PBX) &quot;MRAS&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> Tacoma Rail<br /> 161.070 <br /> 161.145 (E Olympia-Belmore)<br /> <br /> 160.575 161.190 (unverified)<br /> 161.295 traffic heard-Yard? <br /> 161.445 (Tideflats Yard Tacoma)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Simpson Timber Railroad (Shelton)<br /> 160.440 161.340 <br /> <br /> 160.845 161.085 (unverified)<br /> <br /> <br /> Curtis Milburn Railroad (Thurston Co.)<br /> 160.245 <br /> <br /> <br /> Mt. Rainier Scenic Railroad<br /> 160.635 (unverified)<br /> <br /> Mt. Vernon Terminal Railway<br /> 160.875 (unverified)<br /> <br /> BC Rail<br /> 160.305 BC Rail (Vancouver)<br /> <br /> Puget Sound Historic Railway<br /> 161.355 (unverified)<br /> <br /> Chehalis-Centralia Railroad<br /> no frequencies on file<br /> <br /> Lake Whatcom Railway<br /> <br /> no frequencies on file<br /> <br /> Other<br /> 160.275 unknown. Comes in too weak at my place to copy.<br /> 160.380 units &quot;Quebec Base&quot; and &quot;Papa 3&quot;. No idea who it is.<br /> 160.530 unknown<br /> 160.785 Unknown railroad - rarely used<br /> 160.950 Unknown railroad<br /> 160.980 Unknown railroad. Possibly Canada.<br /> 160.995 repeater input<br /> 161.025 unknown railroad<br /> 161.175 unknown railroad<br /> 161.325 unknown railroad<br /> 161.430 unknown<br /> 161.520 repeater input, also unknown simplex comms.<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Puget Sound Energy==<br /> <br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> S = Simplex R = Repeater PL tone in parentheses ()<br /> <br /> Electric<br /> 153.410 On-scene simplex ?<br /> 153.425 S (103.5) Whidbey Island<br /> 153.440 S (103.5) Puyallup/Buckley area<br /> 153.545 S (103.5) Whatcom Co. &amp; Thurston Co.<br /> 153.605 S (103.5) Kirkland/Redmond<br /> 153.620 S (103.5) Skagit Co. ,(possibly North Bend too, not verified)<br /> 153.635 S (103.5) Pt. Townsend &amp; Vashon Is.<br /> 153.650 S (103.5) Bellevue/Factoria<br /> 153.680 S (103.5) Auburn/South King Co.<br /> 158.130 I haven't copied anything on this freq. Supposedly Kitsap Co.<br /> 158.145 &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; Renton<br /> <br /> 451.050 R (103.5) Radio Shop<br /> 451.1375 Telemetry heard in Bellingham<br /> 451.225<br /> 451.250 R (103.5) Unknown use<br /> 451.700<br /> <br /> <br /> Gas<br /> 900mhz EDACS trunked (EDACS Narrow - 4800 baud)<br /> LCN numbers in parentheses ()<br /> <br /> Capitol Peak (site 1)<br /> ??? <br /> <br /> Gold Mt. (site 2)<br /> 936.3875 (1)<br /> 936.400 (2)<br /> 936.4125 (3)<br /> 936.425 (4)<br /> <br /> Tiger Mt. (site 3)<br /> 936.4375 (1)<br /> 936.450 (2)<br /> 936.4625 (3)<br /> 936.000 (4)<br /> <br /> Gunsite Ridge (Granite Falls) (site 4)<br /> 936.475 (1)<br /> 936.450 (2) <br /> 936.500 (3)<br /> 937.4125 (4)<br /> <br /> Tacoma (28th st) (site 5)<br /> 936.475<br /> <br /> Sumner (White River) (site 6)<br /> 936.900 (1)<br /> (2) is possibly 936.9125<br /> 936.925 (3)<br /> 936.950 (4)<br /> <br /> Columbia (Seattle) (site 7)<br /> 935.450 (1)<br /> 935.4625 (2)<br /> 935.475 (3)<br /> 935.4875 (4)<br /> 935.500 (5)<br /> <br /> Talkgroups<br /> ------------------------------------------------------------------------<br /> Hex Dec AFS:<br /> 0111 273 02-021<br /> 0116 278 02-026<br /> 011A 282 02-032<br /> 011C 284 02-034 appears to be Gas service dispatch<br /> 011D 285 02-035<br /> 011E 286 02-036<br /> 011F 287 02-037 appears to be Gas service dispatch for the Issaquah area<br /> 0121 289 02-041 used in Snohomish county (gas service dispatch)<br /> 0122 290 02-042<br /> 012C 300 02-054 <br /> 0133 307 02-063<br /> 0147 327 02-087<br /> 0163 355 02-123<br /> 0171 369 02-141<br /> <br /> <br /> Notes<br /> Not a lot of traffic on this system. It can be easily scanned without<br /> an EDACS-capable trunking scanner by putting in all the freqs for one<br /> of the sites and then locking out the control channel.<br /> <br /> Thanks to Dennis and Flash for their contributions.<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Mutual Aid, State Ops, I-Call, and I-Tac==<br /> <br /> <br /> Mutual-aid channels are available so different<br /> public safety agencies have common channels they<br /> can use to communicate with other agencies.<br /> <br /> 153.830 is the statewide fire mutual aid channel. On the air<br /> you might hear it referred to as &quot;Red Net&quot; or &quot;Firecom&quot;.<br /> Its typically used for comms when multiple fire departments<br /> respond to an incident. Sometimes it will be used within a<br /> department as a spare tactical channel.<br /> <br /> 155.370 is used throughout most of the state as a police<br /> mutual aid channel. Its called &quot;LERN&quot; (Law Enforcement<br /> Radio Network). Basically the same usage rules as &quot;Red Net&quot;.<br /> This is commonly used when there is a police pursuit<br /> involving State Patrol and city/county police departments.<br /> LERN is also patched into the King County regional trunk system.<br /> <br /> 155.475 is the national law enforcement emergency channel (NLEC).<br /> Its rarely used in the Puget Sound area.<br /> <br /> 156.135 is OSCCR - On Scene Command &amp; Coordination Radio. Typically<br /> used by State Patrol at major accident scenes. Occasional<br /> tactical usage by city/county agencies.<br /> <br /> 155.190 is MARS - Mutual Aid Radio. Its a crossband system linking<br /> a VHF repeater, a UHF repeater, and the King County regional<br /> trunk system. Its typically used by agencies with incompatible<br /> radio systems (for example WSP talking to Seattle PD). Its<br /> often used for pursuits and sometimes for the King County<br /> Guardian 1 helicopter.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> State Ops refers to five 800mhz simplex channels. <br /> <br /> I-Call and I-Tac are 800mhz conventional repeaters.<br /> <br /> Some or all of these are programmed into agencies that use 800mhz radios.<br /> Commonly heard users of these freqs are Police, Fire, and State DOT.<br /> <br /> Besides short range on-scene tactical comms, these freqs are also useful<br /> for comms between radios that have incompatible trunking formats (for example<br /> the Johnson MultiNet radios used by State DOT can talk to the Motorola<br /> trunked radios used by King County).<br /> <br /> Since the repeaters are conventional, they could function as a backup during<br /> a catastrophic trunk system failure in addition to site-trunking.<br /> <br /> State Ops, I-Call, and I-Tac use a CTCSS (PL) tone of 156.7<br /> <br /> State Ops<br /> 867.5375 State Ops 1<br /> 867.5625 State Ops 2<br /> 867.5875 State Ops 3<br /> 867.6125 State Ops 4<br /> 867.6375 State Ops 5<br /> <br /> <br /> I-Call and I-Tac<br /> 866.0125 I-Call Squak Mtn.<br /> 866.5125 I-Tac 1 South King County (Cambridge)<br /> 867.0125 I-Tac 2 Bellevue (near Somerset)<br /> 867.5125 I-Tac 3 Seattle (Capitol Hill)<br /> 868.0125 I-Tac 4 Shoreline (Crista Ministries tower)</div> Sat, 16 Aug 2014 01:06:14 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:WA_State http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/WA_State <p>Rich:&#32;/* Railroad */</p> <hr /> <div>==Washington State statewide frequencies==<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/radiomap.gif Puget Sound repeater sites]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/service_area_map.pdf Puget Sound Energy service area map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div-pa.gif BNSF Western Washington map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div_nw.pdf BNSF Pacific NW states map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.kellykeeton.com/radio/NWWAmilepost.pdf Western WA Milepost map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/NR/rdonlyres/8CFBC47D-3549-4CB9-9DE6-14CE9739671F/0/RailSystemMap_Aug2007.pdf Washington state DOT rail system map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Marine Radio==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> 156.250 5A VTS Port Angeles<br /> 156.350 7 Foss Tugs<br /> 156.350 7A Port of Seattle VTS ?<br /> 156.450 9 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.500 10 Red Stack Tugs<br /> 156.600 12 USN Bangor Operations<br /> 156.650 13 Bridges<br /> 156.700 14 VTS, Puget Sound south of Whidbey Is.<br /> 156.800 16 Calling/Distress<br /> 156.900 18 Vessel Assist &quot;Primary&quot;<br /> 156.950 19 Argosy Tour Boats<br /> 157.050 21 USCG Air Operations<br /> 157.100 22 USCG Surface Operations<br /> 157.150 23A US Coast Guard Port Ops, some SeaFair usage<br /> 161.900 26 Radiotelephone - Seattle<br /> 161.950 27 Radiotelephone - BC Tel<br /> 162.000 28 Radiotelephone - Bellingham<br /> 156.275 65 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.325 66 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.375 67 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.425 68 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.475 69 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.525 70 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.625 72 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.675 73 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.725 74 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.875 77 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.975 79A Washington State Ferries<br /> 157.075 81 USCG Special Operations (SeaFair, etc.)<br /> 157.175 83 USCG Special Operations<br /> 157.175 83A US Coast Guard Auxiliary<br /> 161.825 84 Vancouver Coast Guard<br /> 161.875 85 Radiotelephone - Tumwater<br /> 161.975 87 Radiotelephone - Whidbey Island<br /> <br /> (VTS means Vessel Traffic System)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Weather Radio==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> 161.650 Canada - Vancouver Coast Guard radio (channel 21B) transmitter on Mt. Park<br /> 162.400 CFA240 Canada - Vancouver/Victoria<br /> 162.400 WXL86 NOAA Spokane<br /> 162.425 WWJ24 NOAA Maynard Pk. (Puget Sound Marine wx)<br /> 162.425 KXI27 NOAA Forks<br /> 162.425 WWH27 NOAA Plymouth<br /> 162.450 WWF56 NOAA Richland<br /> 162.475 WXM62 NOAA Bawfaw Pk. (Olympia area)<br /> 162.475 Canada - Victoria<br /> 162.475 WXM48 NOAA Wenatchee<br /> 162.525 WWF49 NOAA Tunk Mt. (Okanogan area)<br /> 162.550 KHB60 NOAA Cougar Mt. (Puget Sound area)<br /> 162.550 KIH36 NOAA Neah Bay<br /> 162.550 KIG75 NOAA Yakima<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Washington State Patrol==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> S = simplex, R = Repeater output CTCSS tones in parenthesis ()<br /> <br /> District 1: Pierce &amp; Thurston County<br /> HQ: Tacoma<br /> Detachments: Gig Harbor, Olympia<br /> <br /> 1 TAC-W 155.520 S Pierce Co. Dispatch (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 TAC-E 154.740 S North &amp; NE Pierce Co. (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 5 OLYMPIA 154.920 S Thurston Co. Dispatch (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 6 D1 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 7 LERN 155.370 S (100.0) <br /> 8 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 2: King County <br /> HQ: Bellevue<br /> Detachments: Bellevue, Enumclaw, Seattle North, Seattle South<br /> <br /> 1 SEA-N 155.580 R (100.0) King Co. Dispatch (input 158.790 PL 100.0)<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S<br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S<br /> 4 SEA-S 154.680 R (100.0) South King Co. (input 151.115 PL 100.0)<br /> 5 SEA-E 155.580 R (100.0) same as ch.1<br /> 6 D2 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 100.0 PL)<br /> 7 WESTIN 155.970 R State (input 159.075 PL 100.0)<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> District 3: Yakima, Benton, Franklin, Walla Walla, Columbia, Garfield, Asotin County<br /> HQ: Union Gap<br /> Detachments: Kennewick, Grandview, Walla Walla<br /> <br /> 1 YAKIMA 154.920 R (173.8) (input 159.075 PL 173.8) Yakima Co., Garfield Co.<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 KENWICK 155.520 S (mobiles use 173.8 PL) Benton Co., Franklin Co., Walla Walla Co.<br /> 5 WHT PAS 155.970 R (77.0) (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 6 PUF RPT 155.970 R (173.8) (input 158.790 PL 173.8)<br /> 7 D3 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 173.8PL)<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 4: Spokane, Ferry, Stevens, Pend Oreille, Lincoln, Adams, Whitman County<br /> HQ: Spokane<br /> <br /> Detachments: Colfax, Colville, Ritzville<br /> Spokane Port of Entry - RR1 Westbound I-90, Milepost 299<br /> <br /> 1 SPOKANE 154.905 R NAC D40 SPOKANE AREA<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S ANALOG <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S ANALOG <br /> 4 COLVILLE 154.665 S NAC D40 COLVILLE, REPUBLIC, <br /> 5 STEPTOE 154.845 S NAC D40 STEPTOE BUTTE, LIND, CRESTON (West I-90,West SR2, South SR195).<br /> 6 PULL-ST 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 7 CALISPEL 155.970 R 156.7 PEND OREILLE NEWPORT (CALISPEL PEAK).<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S CAR/CAR N/E COUNTIES <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 5: Lewis, Klickitat, Cowlitz, Clark, Skamania, Wahkiakum County<br /> HQ: Vancouver<br /> Detachments: Chehalis, Goldendale, Kelso, Morton<br /> Ridgefield Port of Entry - 29317 Interstate 5, Ridgefield, WA<br /> <br /> 1 VANCOUV 154.680 R (input 155.580 PL 136.5) Clark &amp; Skamania Co.<br /> 2 CAR 3 154.755 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL)<br /> 3 CHEHALS 155.850 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL) Lewis Co.<br /> 4 KELSO 154.770 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL) Cowlitz Co.<br /> 5 GOLDALE 154.665 R (input 155.580 PL 136.5) Klickitat Co.<br /> 6 SUMMIT 155.970 R (77.0) (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 7 TOUTLE 155.970 R (88.5) (input 158.790 PL 136.5)<br /> 8 D5 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 136.5 PL)<br /> 9 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 10 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 6: Chelan, Okanogan, Kittitas, Douglas, Grant County<br /> HQ: Wenatchee<br /> Detachments: Cle Elum (CVD), Ellensburg, Moses Lake, Okanogan<br /> <br /> 1 WENATCH 154.935 R (123.0) (input 158.985 PL 123.0) Chelan Co., Douglas Co.<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 OKANOGN 154.680 R (123.0) (input 159.045 PL 123.0) Okanogan Co.<br /> 5 ELLENS 154.770 R (123.0) (input 155.850 PL 123.0) Kittitas Co.<br /> 6 EPHRATA 155.505 R (123.0) (input 154.695 PL 123.0) Grant Co.<br /> 7 SLATEPK 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 110.9)<br /> 8 STEV E 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 123.0)<br /> 9 D6 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 123.0 PL)<br /> 10 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 11 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> District 7: Snohomish, Skagit, Whatcom, San Juan, Island County<br /> HQ: Marysville<br /> Detachments: Bellingham, Burlington, Monroe, Oak Harbor, Silver Lake<br /> Bow Hill POE - I-5 Southbound milepost 236 (Bow) (Scale 33)<br /> Silverlake - Milepost 188 Southbound I-5, Everett, WA<br /> <br /> 1 EVERETT 155.655 R (141.3) (input 154.845 PL 141.3) Snohomish Co. &amp; Camano Is.<br /> 2 CAR 4 154.935 S<br /> 3 MT VERN 155.505 R (141.3) (input 159.045 PL 141.3) Skagit Co. &amp; Whidbey Is.<br /> 4 BELNGHM 154.755 R (141.3) (input 155.250 PL 141.3) Whatcom Co.<br /> 5 SHUKSAN 154.755 R (141.3) (input 158.790 PL 141.3)<br /> 6 CASCADE 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 173.8)<br /> 7 STEV W 155.970 R (input 154.845 PL 141.3)<br /> 8 D7 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 141.3 PL)<br /> 9 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 10 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> #7 = District HQ in Marysville<br /> 710 = Detachment Office at Silver Lake Rest Area.<br /> 711 = Detachment Office in Monroe<br /> 712 = Detachment Office in Mount Vernon<br /> 713 = Detachment Office in Bellingham<br /> 714 = Detachment Office in Oak Harbor<br /> <br /> Scale 38 is I-5 Northbound milepost 214<br /> <br /> District 8: Clallam, Jefferson, Grays Harbor, Pacific, Mason, Kitsap County<br /> HQ: Bremerton<br /> Detachments: Bremerton, Hoquiam, Port Angeles, Naselle, Shelton<br /> Naselle - 797 SR4, Naselle, WA <br /> <br /> 1 BREMRTN 154.665 R (110.9) (input 159.075 PL 110.9) Kitsap &amp; Mason Co.<br /> 2 CAR 4 154.935 S<br /> 3 PT ANG 154.770 S (110.9) Clallam &amp; Jefferson Co.(&quot;Gardiner&quot;) <br /> 4 HOQUIAM 154.695 S (mobiles use 110.9 PL) Grays Harbor &amp; Pacific Co. (&quot;Capitol&quot;)<br /> 5 CLR WTR 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 110.9)<br /> 6 D8 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 110.9 PL)<br /> 7 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 8 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> 'Hoquiam' = Grays Harbor Co.<br /> 'Naselle' or 'Astoria' = Pacific Co.<br /> <br /> <br /> All areas:<br /> 151.040 S WSP to DOT simplex (mountain passes)<br /> 155.970 R (none) State common (input 159.075)<br /> 155.970 S Simplex activity in various areas<br /> 155.970 S Liquor control board field agents<br /> 159.045 misc. on-scene ops (Eastern WA)<br /> 159.075 S F-28 old Aircraft freq.<br /> 151.115 S F-29 Link to DOT 800mhz radio system (Stevens Pass)(input to 154.680 WSP Seattle S)<br /> 155.445 S F-30<br /> 156.075 S F-32 Commercial Vehicle Enforcement (Scales) &amp; Youth Ecology Corps<br /> 158.985 S F-33 <br /> 159.105 S F-35<br /> 155.250 S F-36<br /> 156.135 S OSCCR<br /> 453.475 MDT or AVLS<br /> 453.925 MDT or AVLS<br /> 460.175 MDT<br /> 460.250 MDT<br /> 460.425 MDT<br /> 460.475 MDT<br /> 155.700 WSP Tac Squad (patrol cars do not have access to this channel)<br /> <br /> <br /> State Fish &amp; Wildlife DNR State Common (159.420) or other DNR frequencies. <br /> <br /> <br /> B(oy)- Capitol Security units bike patrol<br /> D(avid)- Detectives<br /> J(ay)- Employee of outside agency<br /> K(ing)- Canine unit<br /> M(ary)- Motorcycle unit<br /> O(cean)- Off Duty unit<br /> X- Non-Trooper WSP employee<br /> W/Wildlife- WDFW<br /> L/Liquor- WSLCB<br /> P/Parks- Park Rangers<br /> T/Tom- WSDOT Incident Response/Service Patrol<br /> F/Forest- USFS units<br /> C/Corrections- DOC Corrections Officers/Buses<br /> LI/Labor- L&amp;I Investigators<br /> H/Homeland- DHS<br /> G/Gaming- Gambling Commission Agents<br /> R/Reclamation- BLM units<br /> BN/Burlington Northern- BNSF RR Police<br /> UP/Union Pacific- UPRR Police<br /> CA/Child Admin- DSHS/CPS<br /> <br /> 1- WSP Chief<br /> 2- WSP Deputy Chief<br /> 3-5 WSP Assistant Chiefs<br /> 7-39 WSP Captains<br /> 21-28 District Commanders <br /> 40-99 Lieutenants<br /> 100-299 Sergeants<br /> 300 and up Troopers<br /> S-5 Department Pschologist<br /> S-9 Communications Division Administrator <br /> S14-22 Special Deputy<br /> <br /> X14-99 Electronic Services<br /> X101- Communications Division Assistant Administrator<br /> X-108 Communications Training Program Manager<br /> X111-118 Communications Station Managers<br /> X119-149 Communications Supervisors (Comm Off-3)<br /> X150-199 Communications Officer-2 (Trainers)<br /> X200-329 Communications Officers, Comm Off-1, Comm Off Assistants<br /> X330-339 Supply Section/Propery Management<br /> X340-379 Fire Protection<br /> X380-389 Misc<br /> X390-399 Evidence Control<br /> X400-419 Fleet<br /> X420-426 ACCESS/WACIC<br /> X427-458 IT<br /> X459-474 Identification<br /> X475-499 Property Management<br /> X500-599 Crime Lab<br /> X600-679 VIN Inspectors<br /> X680-689 MAIT<br /> X690-694 Aviation Unit<br /> X695-699 Breath Test<br /> X700-899 CVEO<br /> X900-999 CVEO Motor Carrier Safety Assistance Program<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Aircraft frequencies==<br /> <br /> <br /> (Aircraft freqs that can be heard from the Puget Sound area)<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/atc.jpg Washington State air traffic control VHF frequency map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/atc.bmp printable bitmap of the above map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> NDB (ADF) freqs can be found in the frequency database: &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/s.php?sfreq=4&amp;stype=B&amp;ssort=1&amp;cfreq=1&amp;cstate=1&amp;ccity=1&amp;z=1 NDB database]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/XX/arinc600a.jpg Enroute freqs for international flights (shortwave)]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/XX/arinc.jpg Older 1983 shortwave map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> 108.0 - 117.975 VOR/DME/ILS navigation<br /> 110.6 PAE Paine Field VOR/DME<br /> 111.5 IAWO unknown - probably Arlington airport<br /> 113.7 YYJ Saltspring Island VOR<br /> 116.8 SEA Sea-Tac VOR/DME<br /> <br /> 118.0 - 121.4 ATC &amp; ATIS<br /> 118.0 Sea-Tac ATIS <br /> 118.1 Portland Appr<br /> 118.2 Whidbey Appr<br /> 118.3 BFI Tower<br /> 118.5 Tacoma Tower (Rwy 17)<br /> 118.55 Seattle Center (Yakima)<br /> 118.9 BFI Clearance Delivery<br /> 119.1 ? Possibly Victoria Tower<br /> 119.2 Sea-Tac Departure<br /> 119.5 Seattle Appr <br /> 119.65 Seattle Center (The Dalles)<br /> 119.7 Victoria Tower<br /> 119.9 Sea-Tac Tower<br /> 120.1 Seattle Appr <br /> 120.2 Paine Tower<br /> 120.3 Seattle Center (Beacon Hill)<br /> 120.4 Seattle Appr <br /> 120.6 BFI Tower<br /> 120.7 Whidbey Appr<br /> 121.1 Seattle Center Appr/Dep<br /> 121.125 Skagit Regional (AWOS)<br /> 121.2 Bremerton ATIS<br /> 121.35 Seattle Center (Oregon area?)<br /> <br /> 121.5 Emergency &amp; ELT<br /> <br /> 121.6 - 121.9 Ground Control<br /> <br /> 121.7 Sea-Tac Ground Control<br /> 121.75 ? Ground Control - unknown airport<br /> 121.8 ? Possibly Paine Field ground control<br /> <br /> 121.95 - 122.675 FSS &amp; misc.<br /> 122.1 Nanaimo FSS<br /> 122.55 Seattle FSS<br /> <br /> 122.7 - 123.2 Unicom &amp; misc.<br /> 122.7 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Arlington, Bremerton, Sequim, Hoquiam, Kenmore (seaplanes)<br /> <br /> 122.775 Traffic Helicopters (primary)<br /> <br /> 122.8 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Anacortes, Friday Harbor, Oak Harbor, Blaine, Chehalis-Centralia, Auburn,<br /> Thun Field (Puyallup), Sky Harbor (Sultan), Sanderson Field (Shelton)<br /> <br /> 123.0 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Kent, Snohomish (Harvey Field), Burlington, Pt. Townsend<br /> <br /> 123.025 Unicom - Helicopters (local Traffic Helicopters secondary)<br /> <br /> 123.2 - 123.675 Misc.<br /> 123.275 Boeing test flights<br /> 123.3 Gliders<br /> 123.5 Gliders<br /> <br /> 123.7 - 128.8 ATC &amp; ATIS<br /> 123.7 Comox Terminal<br /> 123.8 Chinook Appr<br /> 123.9 Seattle Appr<br /> 124.05 Tacoma Narrows ATIS<br /> 124.2 Seattle Center (Scappoose)<br /> <br /> 124.4 Olympia Tower<br /> 124.65 Gray AAF (Ft. Lewis) ATIS<br /> 124.7 Renton Tower<br /> 124.8 McChord Tower (Rwy 34)<br /> 124.9 Bellingham Tower<br /> 125.1 Seattle Center (Neah Bay) - Olympic Peninsula<br /> 125.6 Seattle Center (approaching aircraft 16k-9k)<br /> 125.8 Seattle Center (Horton)<br /> 125.9 Seattle Appr<br /> 125.95 Vancouver Center <br /> 126.1 Seattle Center (Wenatchee)<br /> 126.125 Vancouver Terminal<br /> 126.2 Gray Tower (Rwy 15)<br /> 126.5 Seattle Appr<br /> 126.6 Seattle Center (Larch Mtn) - areas South and East of Tacoma<br /> 126.95 Renton ATIS<br /> 127.1 Advisory Freq - not sure what area it covers<br /> 127.75 Boeing Field ATIS<br /> 127.8 Victoria Terminal VFR (simulcast on 133.85)<br /> 128.0 Sea-Tac Clearance Delivery<br /> 128.15 Seattle Center (Redmond, OR / Scappoose)<br /> 128.25 San Juan Advisory freq<br /> to quote Colin... &quot;All aircraft in the San Juan Island areas are<br /> encouraged to monitor and report on this freq&quot;<br /> 128.3 Seattle Center (Larch Mtn) - Olympia and Elma area<br /> 128.45 Seattle Center (Mullan Pass)<br /> 128.5 Seattle Center (Ft. Lawton) - airspace under 6000 ft<br /> 128.6 Vancouver Appr<br /> 128.65 Paine Field ATIS<br /> 128.75 ?<br /> <br /> 128.825 - 132.05 Corporate en-route &amp; ACARS<br /> <br /> Inbound flights usually report in about 10 to 15 minutes before landing. <br /> An inbound flight usually will make fuel requests (if needed) and give<br /> ETA. The base will respond with a gate assignment.<br /> <br /> Outbound flights usually report in about 5 to 10 minutes after takeoff.<br /> An outbound flight will report takeoff time, fuel status, passenger load,<br /> and cargo weight.<br /> <br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Sun Country Airlines<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Aeroflot<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Omni Air Int'l (handled by Premier Avai 1 ground services)<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Martinair (outbound) (handled by Slatterly ground services)<br /> 128.825 Portland Aero Air (FBO) Learjet maintenance<br /> 128.9 BFI Airpac Airlines<br /> 128.9 Vancouver Cathay Pacific (inbound)<br /> 128.925 Sea-Tac Signature (FBO) fueling &amp; ground transportation<br /> 128.95 Vancouver Kelowna Flightcraft (Purolator)<br /> 128.975 ? unknown airline (outbound) to Penticton/Cranbrook<br /> 129.0 Sea-Tac Air Canada (handled by United)<br /> 129.0 Vancouver Canada 3000 Airlines ('Elite xxx')<br /> 129.025 BFI Galvin Flight Services (FBO)<br /> 129.1 ? Light aircraft operating in the Vancouver area<br /> 129.2 ? Canadian planes - some flights going to Calgary<br /> 129.2 ? &quot;Timber 1&quot; and &quot;Timber 2&quot; - possibly Timberline Air or Kwatna Timber<br /> 129.2 ? inbound to sea-tac<br /> 129.225 Sea-Tac American Airlines<br /> 129.325 Sea-Tac Horizon Airlines<br /> 129.375 Sea-Tac Casino Express<br /> 129.4 Sea-Tac ARINC - San Francisco Radio<br /> 129.425 BFI UPS (also Vancouver, Victoria, Pt. Angeles)<br /> 129.45 Vancouver America West Airlines (handled by United)<br /> 129.45 Vancouver United Airlines and United Express (Skywest)<br /> 129.5 Sea-Tac United Airlines<br /> 129.5 Sea-Tac Shuttle by United ('Air Coach xxx')<br /> 129.5 Portland Delta Airlines<br /> 129.55 Victoria Canadian Airlines (outbound)<br /> 129.575 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 129.6 Sea-Tac American Trans Air ('Amtran xxx')<br /> 129.6 Sea-Tac Omni Air (inbound) calling Slattery Ground Services - no response<br /> 129.7 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 129.725 Sea-Tac Cargolux Air Freight<br /> 129.775 Vancouver Air Canada (outbound ops)<br /> 129.825 Seattle Airlift NW (helicopters), also Lear 359EF doing patient transport<br /> 129.85 ARINC - San Francisco Radio<br /> 129.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines (maintenance)<br /> 129.925 Sea-Tac Continental Airlines<br /> 130.0 Air Canada - possibly inbound for Penticton<br /> 130.025 ACARS data<br /> 130.05 Sea-Tac British Airways<br /> 130.1 Sea-Tac Delta Airlines<br /> 130.1 Sea-Tac Vanguard Airlines<br /> 130.125 ? Light aircraft operating in the San Juans<br /> 130.15 Portland American Airlines<br /> 130.175 Vancouver/Victoria Air Canada<br /> 130.200 Vancouver British Airways<br /> 130.225 Sea-Tac old TWA freq. Unknown if used now.<br /> 130.25 Sea-Tac Kitty Hawk (Air freight)<br /> 130.275 ? ?<br /> 130.3 Kenmore Air Harbor &amp; Lake Union Air<br /> 130.35 Vancouver Air Canada<br /> 130.375 ? (Canada - inbound to Richmond)<br /> 130.45 Sea-Tac Scandinavian Airlines<br /> 130.45 Sea-Tac China Airlines ('Dynasty xxx')<br /> 130.475 Vancouver Air Canada ? (maintenance)<br /> 130.5 Portland Alaska Airlines<br /> 130.525 Bellingham United Express<br /> 130.575 Vancouver West Jet<br /> 130.6 ?<br /> 130.625 San Juans West Isle Air<br /> 130.65 Sea-Tac National Airlines ('Red Rock xxx')<br /> 130.65 ? unknown airline '125' calling operations<br /> 130.675 Vancouver Continental Airlines<br /> 130.7 ? small commercial passenger planes going to Vancouver Harbor &amp; Victoria -<br /> probably Harbour Air Seaplanes, might be Baxter Air...<br /> 130.7 Sea-Tac Scandinavian Airlines (inbound)<br /> 130.725 Sea-Tac Horizon Airlines/Big Sky Airlines (inbound), Northwest Airlines<br /> 130.75 ACARS data<br /> 130.8 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 130.825 Sea-Tac Frontier Airlines<br /> 130.85 Sea-Tac Southwest Airlines<br /> 130.875 Sea-Tac Alaska Airlines (outbound)<br /> 130.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines/Air Canada (outbound)<br /> 130.925 Sea-Tac America West Airlines ('Cactus xxx')<br /> 130.95 ? unknown airline (outbound) '1240'<br /> 131.0 BFI Airborne Express ('ABEX xxx') maintenance<br /> 131.025 ? - light aircraft or helicopter w/fuel requests<br /> 131.05 Sea-Tac United Express (Skywest)<br /> 131.15 Sea-Tac US Air<br /> 131.2 Sea-Tac Alaska Airlines (inbound)<br /> 131.25 Vancouver Helijet Airways<br /> 131.275 ? unknown commercial airliners - Vancouver<br /> 131.35 Portland Horizon Airlines<br /> 131.4 ?<br /> 131.425 Sea-Tac EVA Air<br /> 131.45 ? (Canada)<br /> 131.475 ACARS data (Air Canada)<br /> 131.525 ? unknown airline - San Juans, BFI, Pt. Townsend, Friday Harbor - scenic flights<br /> possibly Vashon Island Air<br /> 131.55 ACARS data (primary)<br /> 131.6 Sea-Tac old Harbor Airlines freq. Unknown if used now.<br /> 131.6 San Juans Harbor Airlines<br /> 131.625 Sea-Tac DHL ('Reliant xxx')<br /> 131.675 ? (Canada - outbound) '103' calling operations<br /> 131.7 Sea-Tac Northwest Airlines (inbound)<br /> 131.7 Sea-Tac Hawaiian Airlines (inbound) - handled by Northwest<br /> 131.725 Sea-Tac Evergreen Air Freight<br /> 131.75 BFI Aeroflight<br /> 131.75 bonanza 82159 calling unknown base station<br /> 131.8 ? ?<br /> 131.825 Paine Field FedEx (secondary when they can't contact on 131.925)<br /> 131.825 ? ? (maintenance)<br /> 131.85 ? ?<br /> 131.875 Vancouver West Jet<br /> 131.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines (maintenance)<br /> 131.925 FedEx (Sea-Tac, Portland, Paine Field)<br /> 131.925 Sea-Tac Empire Airlines (outbound)<br /> 131.95 ? ?<br /> 132.0 Vancouver Alaska Airlines<br /> 132.0 Bellingham Horizon (inbound)<br /> 132.025 BFI Flight Center (FBO)<br /> <br /> 132.075 - 136.475 ATC &amp; ATIS&lt;<br /> 132.075 Seattle Center (Horton)<br /> 132.2 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.3 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.4 ?<br /> 132.6 Seattle Center (Yakima)<br /> 132.7 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.95 Paine Tower<br /> 133.0 Portland Appr<br /> 133.1 ?<br /> 133.5 Vancouver Center<br /> 133.65 Sea-Tac Appr<br /> 133.7 Vancouver Center<br /> 133.85 Victoria Appr (Victoria Terminal main VFR freq) simulcast on 127.8<br /> 133.95 Victoria Terminal (north - Nanaimo)<br /> 134.15 Ault Field (Whidbey Island) ATIS<br /> 134.4 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.55 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.8 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.95 Seattle Center (Whidbey Island) - Mt. Vernon/Bellingham area<br /> 135.05 Vancouver Center<br /> 135.1 Whidbey Island NAS Clearance Delivery<br /> 135.45 Seattle Center (The Dalles)<br /> 135.5 Vancouver Center<br /> 135.525 Seattle Center (Beacon Hill)<br /> 135.625 Arlington AWOS<br /> <br /> 136.5 - 136.975 Corporate en-route &amp; ACARS<br /> 136.525 Sea-Tac Emery Air Freight<br /> 136.850 ACARS data<br /> <br /> A real air chart will provide more detailed information than what is listed<br /> here. This is a simple compilation of comm intercepts.<br /> All of these frequencies can be heard from the Puget Sound area.<br /> <br /> Simulcasting is very common in this area for ATC and control towers.<br /> Here are some typical simulcast groups:<br /> <br /> 118.2 / 120.7<br /> 119.2 / 119.5 / 120.4<br /> 119.7 / 121.7<br /> 120.2 / 132.95<br /> 120.3 / 128.5<br /> 120.3 / 125.1 / 126.6 / 135.525<br /> 121.1 / 127.1<br /> 123.9 / 125.9 / 133.65<br /> 125.6 / 125.9 / <br /> 125.1 / 134.95<br /> 125.1 / 128.5 / 134.95<br /> 128.5 / 134.95<br /> <br /> also crossband simulcasting to the UHF military air band:<br /> <br /> 118.3 / 257.8 (BFI Tower)<br /> 119.2 / 284.7 (Sea-Tac Tower)<br /> 120.2 / 132.95 / 287.9 / 339.8 (Paine Tower)<br /> 120.3 / 273.6<br /> 120.4 / 395.0<br /> 123.9 / 338.2<br /> 125.1 / 319.2<br /> 126.6 / 343.6<br /> 128.65 / 387.0 (Paine ATIS)<br /> 134.95 / 270.3<br /> <br /> <br /> Ramp freqs<br /> 452.100 Horizon Airlines Ground<br /> 460.650 Southwest Airlines Ground<br /> 460.675 America West Airlines Ground<br /> 460.700 R (100.0) Alaska Airlines Ground/Maintenance<br /> 460.725 R (203.5) United Airlines Ground<br /> 460.750 R (114.8) Delta Airlines Ground<br /> 460.775 R (100.0) Alaska Airlines Ground<br /> 460.800 Horizon Airlines Ground<br /> 460.850 R (127.3) ?<br /> 460.875 R (192.8) Northwest/Continental Airlines Ground<br /> <br /> <br /> Check out the &quot;Northwest Aircraft Communications&quot; web page for more information.<br /> (Its on the Intercept &quot;Links&quot; page)<br /> <br /> Thanks to Matt, Tad, Dennis &amp; everyone else who contributed info for this page.<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Railroad==<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://www.railroadradio.net railroadradio.net live audio]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div-pa.gif BNSF system map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/bnsflist.htm older BN freq list with channel numbers]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/bnsfd.htm BNSF detector list]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> 160.035 Victoria<br /> 160.215 Tacoma (unverified)<br /> 160.230 Fife Yard or Argo Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.260 Green Mountain repeater. Heard units in Snohomish.<br /> 160.320 supposedly BNSF Delta Yard. Heard miscellaneous simplex comms.<br /> 160.335 unknown usage. Hear data bursts about every 4 minutes.<br /> 160.380 Cascade Tunnel (unverified)<br /> 160.470 Seattle Yard<br /> 160.590 (PBX) Snohomish/Skagit/Whatcom co.<br /> 160.620 (PBX) &quot;MRAS&quot;<br /> 160.650 Balmer Yard, Tacoma Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.665 Operations - Thurston Co.<br /> 160.710 ARES data bursts from trains<br /> 160.725 unknown. Supposedly BNSF<br /> 160.740 Spokane (unverified)<br /> 160.800 Yakima Valley Terminal (unverified)<br /> 160.830 Stacy Yard (unverified), also hear repair crews on this freq.<br /> 160.920 Seattle East<br /> 160.980 South Seattle Ramp (unverified)<br /> 161.010 miscellaneous yard usage<br /> 161.100 BNSF &quot;Seattle East&quot; (Edmonds east to Lyons Wa (Spokane). Also detectors.<br /> 161,100 BNSF &quot;Centralia South&quot; Tenino-Vancouver Jct WA <br /> 161.160 South Seattle Yard. &quot;Seattle Terminal Dispatcher&quot; Tukwila-King Street<br /> 161.250 Delta &amp; Bayside Yard, Bridge 37, Line Everett north to Canada. Also detectors.<br /> 161.250 Harbor Island (unverified)<br /> 161.250 BNSFSwtiching Centralia Yard<br /> 161.250 BNSF Auburn-SP&amp;S Jct (Kennewick) (thanks Don !)<br /> 161.310 Seattle Yard, Balmer Hump, Tacoma Yard (unverified)<br /> 161.370 work crews, &quot;North Service 5&quot;<br /> 161.400 unknown BNSF. Occasional data bursts.<br /> 161.415 BNSF &quot;Centralia North&quot; Tenino-Tukwila<br /> 161.415 CN Joint Vancouver BC (unverified)<br /> 161.460 Puget Sound &amp; Pacific channel 2 (unverified)<br /> 161.475 Puget Sound &amp; Pacific channel 1 Main Ch.<br /> 161.505 Seattle Yard (unverified)<br /> 161.550 appears to be a yard channel.<br /> 457.9125 unknown BNSF<br /> 452.9375 MARY transceiver<br /> 457.9375 FRED transceiver<br /> 452.900 unknown<br /> 452.9125<br /> 452.925/457.925 DPU<br /> 452.950/457.950 DPU <br /> 911.500 &quot;<br /> 918.500 &quot;<br /> <br /> 936.8875, 936.9375, 936.9875 ATCS transmitters - I have yet to hear activity<br /> on these freqs however I've seen 900mhz beam antennas at some local railroad<br /> crossings. <br /> <br /> <br /> Union Pacific<br /> 160.290 (PBX) Haven't heard it in a while. Possibly abandoned.<br /> 160.350 160.410 160.800 Argo Yard and Fife Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.515 &quot;2727&quot; Road Ch. Argo (S Seattle to Reservation, Tacoma)<br /> 160.740 &quot;4242&quot; Road Ch. Eastern Washington (Hinkle Ore to Eastport Id.) <br /> 160.605 (PBX) also some strange tone data bursts<br /> 160.680 Yard channel<br /> 161.235 Thurston County<br /> 160.785 &quot;4545&quot; Road Ch. Cascade Summit Ore to K Falls<br /> <br /> AMTRAK<br /> 160.455 supposedly Amtrak's on-board freq.<br /> 160.620 BNSF/Amtrak (PBX) &quot;MRAS&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> Tacoma Rail<br /> 161.070 <br /> 161.145 (E Olympia-Belmore)<br /> <br /> 160.575 161.190 (unverified)<br /> 161.295 traffic heard-Yard? <br /> 161.445 (Tideflats Yard Tacoma)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Simpson Timber Railroad (Shelton)<br /> 160.440 161.340 <br /> <br /> 160.845 161.085 (unverified)<br /> <br /> <br /> Curtis Milburn Railroad (Thurston Co.)<br /> 160.245 <br /> <br /> <br /> Mt. Rainier Scenic Railroad<br /> 160.635 (unverified)<br /> <br /> Mt. Vernon Terminal Railway<br /> 160.875 (unverified)<br /> <br /> BC Rail<br /> 160.305 BC Rail (Vancouver)<br /> <br /> Puget Sound Historic Railway<br /> 161.355 (unverified)<br /> <br /> Chehalis-Centralia Railroad<br /> no frequencies on file<br /> <br /> Lake Whatcom Railway<br /> <br /> no frequencies on file<br /> <br /> Other<br /> 160.275 unknown. Comes in too weak at my place to copy.<br /> 160.380 units &quot;Quebec Base&quot; and &quot;Papa 3&quot;. No idea who it is.<br /> 160.530 unknown<br /> 160.785 Unknown railroad - rarely used<br /> 160.950 Unknown railroad<br /> 160.980 Unknown railroad. Possibly Canada.<br /> 160.995 repeater input<br /> 161.025 unknown railroad<br /> 161.175 unknown railroad<br /> 161.325 unknown railroad<br /> 161.430 unknown<br /> 161.520 repeater input, also unknown simplex comms.<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Puget Sound Energy==<br /> <br /> <br /> S = Simplex R = Repeater PL tone in parentheses ()<br /> <br /> Electric<br /> 153.410 On-scene simplex ?<br /> 153.425 S (103.5) Whidbey Island<br /> 153.440 S (103.5) Puyallup/Buckley area<br /> 153.545 S (103.5) Whatcom Co. &amp; Thurston Co.<br /> 153.605 S (103.5) Kirkland/Redmond<br /> 153.620 S (103.5) Skagit Co. ,(possibly North Bend too, not verified)<br /> 153.635 S (103.5) Pt. Townsend &amp; Vashon Is.<br /> 153.650 S (103.5) Bellevue/Factoria<br /> 153.680 S (103.5) Auburn/South King Co.<br /> 158.130 I haven't copied anything on this freq. Supposedly Kitsap Co.<br /> 158.145 &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; Renton<br /> <br /> 451.050 R (103.5) Radio Shop<br /> 451.1375 Telemetry heard in Bellingham<br /> 451.225<br /> 451.250 R (103.5) Unknown use<br /> 451.700<br /> <br /> <br /> Gas<br /> 900mhz EDACS trunked (EDACS Narrow - 4800 baud)<br /> LCN numbers in parentheses ()<br /> <br /> Capitol Peak (site 1)<br /> ??? <br /> <br /> Gold Mt. (site 2)<br /> 936.3875 (1)<br /> 936.400 (2)<br /> 936.4125 (3)<br /> 936.425 (4)<br /> <br /> Tiger Mt. (site 3)<br /> 936.4375 (1)<br /> 936.450 (2)<br /> 936.4625 (3)<br /> 936.000 (4)<br /> <br /> Gunsite Ridge (Granite Falls) (site 4)<br /> 936.475 (1)<br /> 936.450 (2) <br /> 936.500 (3)<br /> 937.4125 (4)<br /> <br /> Tacoma (28th st) (site 5)<br /> 936.475<br /> <br /> Sumner (White River) (site 6)<br /> 936.900 (1)<br /> (2) is possibly 936.9125<br /> 936.925 (3)<br /> 936.950 (4)<br /> <br /> Columbia (Seattle) (site 7)<br /> 935.450 (1)<br /> 935.4625 (2)<br /> 935.475 (3)<br /> 935.4875 (4)<br /> 935.500 (5)<br /> <br /> Talkgroups<br /> ------------------------------------------------------------------------<br /> Hex Dec AFS:<br /> 0111 273 02-021<br /> 0116 278 02-026<br /> 011A 282 02-032<br /> 011C 284 02-034 appears to be Gas service dispatch<br /> 011D 285 02-035<br /> 011E 286 02-036<br /> 011F 287 02-037 appears to be Gas service dispatch for the Issaquah area<br /> 0121 289 02-041 used in Snohomish county (gas service dispatch)<br /> 0122 290 02-042<br /> 012C 300 02-054 <br /> 0133 307 02-063<br /> 0147 327 02-087<br /> 0163 355 02-123<br /> 0171 369 02-141<br /> <br /> <br /> Notes<br /> Not a lot of traffic on this system. It can be easily scanned without<br /> an EDACS-capable trunking scanner by putting in all the freqs for one<br /> of the sites and then locking out the control channel.<br /> <br /> Thanks to Dennis and Flash for their contributions.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Mutual Aid, State Ops, I-Call, and I-Tac==<br /> <br /> <br /> Mutual-aid channels are available so different<br /> public safety agencies have common channels they<br /> can use to communicate with other agencies.<br /> <br /> 153.830 is the statewide fire mutual aid channel. On the air<br /> you might hear it referred to as &quot;Red Net&quot; or &quot;Firecom&quot;.<br /> Its typically used for comms when multiple fire departments<br /> respond to an incident. Sometimes it will be used within a<br /> department as a spare tactical channel.<br /> <br /> 155.370 is used throughout most of the state as a police<br /> mutual aid channel. Its called &quot;LERN&quot; (Law Enforcement<br /> Radio Network). Basically the same usage rules as &quot;Red Net&quot;.<br /> This is commonly used when there is a police pursuit<br /> involving State Patrol and city/county police departments.<br /> LERN is also patched into the King County regional trunk system.<br /> <br /> 155.475 is the national law enforcement emergency channel (NLEC).<br /> Its rarely used in the Puget Sound area.<br /> <br /> 156.135 is OSCCR - On Scene Command &amp; Coordination Radio. Typically<br /> used by State Patrol at major accident scenes. Occasional<br /> tactical usage by city/county agencies.<br /> <br /> 155.190 is MARS - Mutual Aid Radio. Its a crossband system linking<br /> a VHF repeater, a UHF repeater, and the King County regional<br /> trunk system. Its typically used by agencies with incompatible<br /> radio systems (for example WSP talking to Seattle PD). Its<br /> often used for pursuits and sometimes for the King County<br /> Guardian 1 helicopter.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> State Ops refers to five 800mhz simplex channels. <br /> <br /> I-Call and I-Tac are 800mhz conventional repeaters.<br /> <br /> Some or all of these are programmed into agencies that use 800mhz radios.<br /> Commonly heard users of these freqs are Police, Fire, and State DOT.<br /> <br /> Besides short range on-scene tactical comms, these freqs are also useful<br /> for comms between radios that have incompatible trunking formats (for example<br /> the Johnson MultiNet radios used by State DOT can talk to the Motorola<br /> trunked radios used by King County).<br /> <br /> Since the repeaters are conventional, they could function as a backup during<br /> a catastrophic trunk system failure in addition to site-trunking.<br /> <br /> State Ops, I-Call, and I-Tac use a CTCSS (PL) tone of 156.7<br /> <br /> State Ops<br /> 867.5375 State Ops 1<br /> 867.5625 State Ops 2<br /> 867.5875 State Ops 3<br /> 867.6125 State Ops 4<br /> 867.6375 State Ops 5<br /> <br /> <br /> I-Call and I-Tac<br /> 866.0125 I-Call Squak Mtn.<br /> 866.5125 I-Tac 1 South King County (Cambridge)<br /> 867.0125 I-Tac 2 Bellevue (near Somerset)<br /> 867.5125 I-Tac 3 Seattle (Capitol Hill)<br /> 868.0125 I-Tac 4 Shoreline (Crista Ministries tower)</div> Sat, 16 Aug 2014 01:05:56 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:WA_State http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/WA_State <p>Rich:&#32;/* Aircraft frequencies */</p> <hr /> <div>==Washington State statewide frequencies==<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/radiomap.gif Puget Sound repeater sites]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/service_area_map.pdf Puget Sound Energy service area map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div-pa.gif BNSF Western Washington map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div_nw.pdf BNSF Pacific NW states map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.kellykeeton.com/radio/NWWAmilepost.pdf Western WA Milepost map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/NR/rdonlyres/8CFBC47D-3549-4CB9-9DE6-14CE9739671F/0/RailSystemMap_Aug2007.pdf Washington state DOT rail system map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Marine Radio==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> 156.250 5A VTS Port Angeles<br /> 156.350 7 Foss Tugs<br /> 156.350 7A Port of Seattle VTS ?<br /> 156.450 9 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.500 10 Red Stack Tugs<br /> 156.600 12 USN Bangor Operations<br /> 156.650 13 Bridges<br /> 156.700 14 VTS, Puget Sound south of Whidbey Is.<br /> 156.800 16 Calling/Distress<br /> 156.900 18 Vessel Assist &quot;Primary&quot;<br /> 156.950 19 Argosy Tour Boats<br /> 157.050 21 USCG Air Operations<br /> 157.100 22 USCG Surface Operations<br /> 157.150 23A US Coast Guard Port Ops, some SeaFair usage<br /> 161.900 26 Radiotelephone - Seattle<br /> 161.950 27 Radiotelephone - BC Tel<br /> 162.000 28 Radiotelephone - Bellingham<br /> 156.275 65 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.325 66 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.375 67 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.425 68 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.475 69 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.525 70 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.625 72 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.675 73 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.725 74 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.875 77 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.975 79A Washington State Ferries<br /> 157.075 81 USCG Special Operations (SeaFair, etc.)<br /> 157.175 83 USCG Special Operations<br /> 157.175 83A US Coast Guard Auxiliary<br /> 161.825 84 Vancouver Coast Guard<br /> 161.875 85 Radiotelephone - Tumwater<br /> 161.975 87 Radiotelephone - Whidbey Island<br /> <br /> (VTS means Vessel Traffic System)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Weather Radio==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> 161.650 Canada - Vancouver Coast Guard radio (channel 21B) transmitter on Mt. Park<br /> 162.400 CFA240 Canada - Vancouver/Victoria<br /> 162.400 WXL86 NOAA Spokane<br /> 162.425 WWJ24 NOAA Maynard Pk. (Puget Sound Marine wx)<br /> 162.425 KXI27 NOAA Forks<br /> 162.425 WWH27 NOAA Plymouth<br /> 162.450 WWF56 NOAA Richland<br /> 162.475 WXM62 NOAA Bawfaw Pk. (Olympia area)<br /> 162.475 Canada - Victoria<br /> 162.475 WXM48 NOAA Wenatchee<br /> 162.525 WWF49 NOAA Tunk Mt. (Okanogan area)<br /> 162.550 KHB60 NOAA Cougar Mt. (Puget Sound area)<br /> 162.550 KIH36 NOAA Neah Bay<br /> 162.550 KIG75 NOAA Yakima<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Washington State Patrol==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> S = simplex, R = Repeater output CTCSS tones in parenthesis ()<br /> <br /> District 1: Pierce &amp; Thurston County<br /> HQ: Tacoma<br /> Detachments: Gig Harbor, Olympia<br /> <br /> 1 TAC-W 155.520 S Pierce Co. Dispatch (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 TAC-E 154.740 S North &amp; NE Pierce Co. (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 5 OLYMPIA 154.920 S Thurston Co. Dispatch (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 6 D1 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 7 LERN 155.370 S (100.0) <br /> 8 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 2: King County <br /> HQ: Bellevue<br /> Detachments: Bellevue, Enumclaw, Seattle North, Seattle South<br /> <br /> 1 SEA-N 155.580 R (100.0) King Co. Dispatch (input 158.790 PL 100.0)<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S<br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S<br /> 4 SEA-S 154.680 R (100.0) South King Co. (input 151.115 PL 100.0)<br /> 5 SEA-E 155.580 R (100.0) same as ch.1<br /> 6 D2 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 100.0 PL)<br /> 7 WESTIN 155.970 R State (input 159.075 PL 100.0)<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> District 3: Yakima, Benton, Franklin, Walla Walla, Columbia, Garfield, Asotin County<br /> HQ: Union Gap<br /> Detachments: Kennewick, Grandview, Walla Walla<br /> <br /> 1 YAKIMA 154.920 R (173.8) (input 159.075 PL 173.8) Yakima Co., Garfield Co.<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 KENWICK 155.520 S (mobiles use 173.8 PL) Benton Co., Franklin Co., Walla Walla Co.<br /> 5 WHT PAS 155.970 R (77.0) (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 6 PUF RPT 155.970 R (173.8) (input 158.790 PL 173.8)<br /> 7 D3 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 173.8PL)<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 4: Spokane, Ferry, Stevens, Pend Oreille, Lincoln, Adams, Whitman County<br /> HQ: Spokane<br /> <br /> Detachments: Colfax, Colville, Ritzville<br /> Spokane Port of Entry - RR1 Westbound I-90, Milepost 299<br /> <br /> 1 SPOKANE 154.905 R NAC D40 SPOKANE AREA<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S ANALOG <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S ANALOG <br /> 4 COLVILLE 154.665 S NAC D40 COLVILLE, REPUBLIC, <br /> 5 STEPTOE 154.845 S NAC D40 STEPTOE BUTTE, LIND, CRESTON (West I-90,West SR2, South SR195).<br /> 6 PULL-ST 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 7 CALISPEL 155.970 R 156.7 PEND OREILLE NEWPORT (CALISPEL PEAK).<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S CAR/CAR N/E COUNTIES <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 5: Lewis, Klickitat, Cowlitz, Clark, Skamania, Wahkiakum County<br /> HQ: Vancouver<br /> Detachments: Chehalis, Goldendale, Kelso, Morton<br /> Ridgefield Port of Entry - 29317 Interstate 5, Ridgefield, WA<br /> <br /> 1 VANCOUV 154.680 R (input 155.580 PL 136.5) Clark &amp; Skamania Co.<br /> 2 CAR 3 154.755 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL)<br /> 3 CHEHALS 155.850 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL) Lewis Co.<br /> 4 KELSO 154.770 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL) Cowlitz Co.<br /> 5 GOLDALE 154.665 R (input 155.580 PL 136.5) Klickitat Co.<br /> 6 SUMMIT 155.970 R (77.0) (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 7 TOUTLE 155.970 R (88.5) (input 158.790 PL 136.5)<br /> 8 D5 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 136.5 PL)<br /> 9 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 10 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 6: Chelan, Okanogan, Kittitas, Douglas, Grant County<br /> HQ: Wenatchee<br /> Detachments: Cle Elum (CVD), Ellensburg, Moses Lake, Okanogan<br /> <br /> 1 WENATCH 154.935 R (123.0) (input 158.985 PL 123.0) Chelan Co., Douglas Co.<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 OKANOGN 154.680 R (123.0) (input 159.045 PL 123.0) Okanogan Co.<br /> 5 ELLENS 154.770 R (123.0) (input 155.850 PL 123.0) Kittitas Co.<br /> 6 EPHRATA 155.505 R (123.0) (input 154.695 PL 123.0) Grant Co.<br /> 7 SLATEPK 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 110.9)<br /> 8 STEV E 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 123.0)<br /> 9 D6 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 123.0 PL)<br /> 10 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 11 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> District 7: Snohomish, Skagit, Whatcom, San Juan, Island County<br /> HQ: Marysville<br /> Detachments: Bellingham, Burlington, Monroe, Oak Harbor, Silver Lake<br /> Bow Hill POE - I-5 Southbound milepost 236 (Bow) (Scale 33)<br /> Silverlake - Milepost 188 Southbound I-5, Everett, WA<br /> <br /> 1 EVERETT 155.655 R (141.3) (input 154.845 PL 141.3) Snohomish Co. &amp; Camano Is.<br /> 2 CAR 4 154.935 S<br /> 3 MT VERN 155.505 R (141.3) (input 159.045 PL 141.3) Skagit Co. &amp; Whidbey Is.<br /> 4 BELNGHM 154.755 R (141.3) (input 155.250 PL 141.3) Whatcom Co.<br /> 5 SHUKSAN 154.755 R (141.3) (input 158.790 PL 141.3)<br /> 6 CASCADE 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 173.8)<br /> 7 STEV W 155.970 R (input 154.845 PL 141.3)<br /> 8 D7 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 141.3 PL)<br /> 9 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 10 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> #7 = District HQ in Marysville<br /> 710 = Detachment Office at Silver Lake Rest Area.<br /> 711 = Detachment Office in Monroe<br /> 712 = Detachment Office in Mount Vernon<br /> 713 = Detachment Office in Bellingham<br /> 714 = Detachment Office in Oak Harbor<br /> <br /> Scale 38 is I-5 Northbound milepost 214<br /> <br /> District 8: Clallam, Jefferson, Grays Harbor, Pacific, Mason, Kitsap County<br /> HQ: Bremerton<br /> Detachments: Bremerton, Hoquiam, Port Angeles, Naselle, Shelton<br /> Naselle - 797 SR4, Naselle, WA <br /> <br /> 1 BREMRTN 154.665 R (110.9) (input 159.075 PL 110.9) Kitsap &amp; Mason Co.<br /> 2 CAR 4 154.935 S<br /> 3 PT ANG 154.770 S (110.9) Clallam &amp; Jefferson Co.(&quot;Gardiner&quot;) <br /> 4 HOQUIAM 154.695 S (mobiles use 110.9 PL) Grays Harbor &amp; Pacific Co. (&quot;Capitol&quot;)<br /> 5 CLR WTR 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 110.9)<br /> 6 D8 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 110.9 PL)<br /> 7 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 8 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> 'Hoquiam' = Grays Harbor Co.<br /> 'Naselle' or 'Astoria' = Pacific Co.<br /> <br /> <br /> All areas:<br /> 151.040 S WSP to DOT simplex (mountain passes)<br /> 155.970 R (none) State common (input 159.075)<br /> 155.970 S Simplex activity in various areas<br /> 155.970 S Liquor control board field agents<br /> 159.045 misc. on-scene ops (Eastern WA)<br /> 159.075 S F-28 old Aircraft freq.<br /> 151.115 S F-29 Link to DOT 800mhz radio system (Stevens Pass)(input to 154.680 WSP Seattle S)<br /> 155.445 S F-30<br /> 156.075 S F-32 Commercial Vehicle Enforcement (Scales) &amp; Youth Ecology Corps<br /> 158.985 S F-33 <br /> 159.105 S F-35<br /> 155.250 S F-36<br /> 156.135 S OSCCR<br /> 453.475 MDT or AVLS<br /> 453.925 MDT or AVLS<br /> 460.175 MDT<br /> 460.250 MDT<br /> 460.425 MDT<br /> 460.475 MDT<br /> 155.700 WSP Tac Squad (patrol cars do not have access to this channel)<br /> <br /> <br /> State Fish &amp; Wildlife DNR State Common (159.420) or other DNR frequencies. <br /> <br /> <br /> B(oy)- Capitol Security units bike patrol<br /> D(avid)- Detectives<br /> J(ay)- Employee of outside agency<br /> K(ing)- Canine unit<br /> M(ary)- Motorcycle unit<br /> O(cean)- Off Duty unit<br /> X- Non-Trooper WSP employee<br /> W/Wildlife- WDFW<br /> L/Liquor- WSLCB<br /> P/Parks- Park Rangers<br /> T/Tom- WSDOT Incident Response/Service Patrol<br /> F/Forest- USFS units<br /> C/Corrections- DOC Corrections Officers/Buses<br /> LI/Labor- L&amp;I Investigators<br /> H/Homeland- DHS<br /> G/Gaming- Gambling Commission Agents<br /> R/Reclamation- BLM units<br /> BN/Burlington Northern- BNSF RR Police<br /> UP/Union Pacific- UPRR Police<br /> CA/Child Admin- DSHS/CPS<br /> <br /> 1- WSP Chief<br /> 2- WSP Deputy Chief<br /> 3-5 WSP Assistant Chiefs<br /> 7-39 WSP Captains<br /> 21-28 District Commanders <br /> 40-99 Lieutenants<br /> 100-299 Sergeants<br /> 300 and up Troopers<br /> S-5 Department Pschologist<br /> S-9 Communications Division Administrator <br /> S14-22 Special Deputy<br /> <br /> X14-99 Electronic Services<br /> X101- Communications Division Assistant Administrator<br /> X-108 Communications Training Program Manager<br /> X111-118 Communications Station Managers<br /> X119-149 Communications Supervisors (Comm Off-3)<br /> X150-199 Communications Officer-2 (Trainers)<br /> X200-329 Communications Officers, Comm Off-1, Comm Off Assistants<br /> X330-339 Supply Section/Propery Management<br /> X340-379 Fire Protection<br /> X380-389 Misc<br /> X390-399 Evidence Control<br /> X400-419 Fleet<br /> X420-426 ACCESS/WACIC<br /> X427-458 IT<br /> X459-474 Identification<br /> X475-499 Property Management<br /> X500-599 Crime Lab<br /> X600-679 VIN Inspectors<br /> X680-689 MAIT<br /> X690-694 Aviation Unit<br /> X695-699 Breath Test<br /> X700-899 CVEO<br /> X900-999 CVEO Motor Carrier Safety Assistance Program<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Aircraft frequencies==<br /> <br /> <br /> (Aircraft freqs that can be heard from the Puget Sound area)<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/atc.jpg Washington State air traffic control VHF frequency map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/atc.bmp printable bitmap of the above map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> NDB (ADF) freqs can be found in the frequency database: &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/s.php?sfreq=4&amp;stype=B&amp;ssort=1&amp;cfreq=1&amp;cstate=1&amp;ccity=1&amp;z=1 NDB database]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/XX/arinc600a.jpg Enroute freqs for international flights (shortwave)]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/XX/arinc.jpg Older 1983 shortwave map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> 108.0 - 117.975 VOR/DME/ILS navigation<br /> 110.6 PAE Paine Field VOR/DME<br /> 111.5 IAWO unknown - probably Arlington airport<br /> 113.7 YYJ Saltspring Island VOR<br /> 116.8 SEA Sea-Tac VOR/DME<br /> <br /> 118.0 - 121.4 ATC &amp; ATIS<br /> 118.0 Sea-Tac ATIS <br /> 118.1 Portland Appr<br /> 118.2 Whidbey Appr<br /> 118.3 BFI Tower<br /> 118.5 Tacoma Tower (Rwy 17)<br /> 118.55 Seattle Center (Yakima)<br /> 118.9 BFI Clearance Delivery<br /> 119.1 ? Possibly Victoria Tower<br /> 119.2 Sea-Tac Departure<br /> 119.5 Seattle Appr <br /> 119.65 Seattle Center (The Dalles)<br /> 119.7 Victoria Tower<br /> 119.9 Sea-Tac Tower<br /> 120.1 Seattle Appr <br /> 120.2 Paine Tower<br /> 120.3 Seattle Center (Beacon Hill)<br /> 120.4 Seattle Appr <br /> 120.6 BFI Tower<br /> 120.7 Whidbey Appr<br /> 121.1 Seattle Center Appr/Dep<br /> 121.125 Skagit Regional (AWOS)<br /> 121.2 Bremerton ATIS<br /> 121.35 Seattle Center (Oregon area?)<br /> <br /> 121.5 Emergency &amp; ELT<br /> <br /> 121.6 - 121.9 Ground Control<br /> <br /> 121.7 Sea-Tac Ground Control<br /> 121.75 ? Ground Control - unknown airport<br /> 121.8 ? Possibly Paine Field ground control<br /> <br /> 121.95 - 122.675 FSS &amp; misc.<br /> 122.1 Nanaimo FSS<br /> 122.55 Seattle FSS<br /> <br /> 122.7 - 123.2 Unicom &amp; misc.<br /> 122.7 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Arlington, Bremerton, Sequim, Hoquiam, Kenmore (seaplanes)<br /> <br /> 122.775 Traffic Helicopters (primary)<br /> <br /> 122.8 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Anacortes, Friday Harbor, Oak Harbor, Blaine, Chehalis-Centralia, Auburn,<br /> Thun Field (Puyallup), Sky Harbor (Sultan), Sanderson Field (Shelton)<br /> <br /> 123.0 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Kent, Snohomish (Harvey Field), Burlington, Pt. Townsend<br /> <br /> 123.025 Unicom - Helicopters (local Traffic Helicopters secondary)<br /> <br /> 123.2 - 123.675 Misc.<br /> 123.275 Boeing test flights<br /> 123.3 Gliders<br /> 123.5 Gliders<br /> <br /> 123.7 - 128.8 ATC &amp; ATIS<br /> 123.7 Comox Terminal<br /> 123.8 Chinook Appr<br /> 123.9 Seattle Appr<br /> 124.05 Tacoma Narrows ATIS<br /> 124.2 Seattle Center (Scappoose)<br /> <br /> 124.4 Olympia Tower<br /> 124.65 Gray AAF (Ft. Lewis) ATIS<br /> 124.7 Renton Tower<br /> 124.8 McChord Tower (Rwy 34)<br /> 124.9 Bellingham Tower<br /> 125.1 Seattle Center (Neah Bay) - Olympic Peninsula<br /> 125.6 Seattle Center (approaching aircraft 16k-9k)<br /> 125.8 Seattle Center (Horton)<br /> 125.9 Seattle Appr<br /> 125.95 Vancouver Center <br /> 126.1 Seattle Center (Wenatchee)<br /> 126.125 Vancouver Terminal<br /> 126.2 Gray Tower (Rwy 15)<br /> 126.5 Seattle Appr<br /> 126.6 Seattle Center (Larch Mtn) - areas South and East of Tacoma<br /> 126.95 Renton ATIS<br /> 127.1 Advisory Freq - not sure what area it covers<br /> 127.75 Boeing Field ATIS<br /> 127.8 Victoria Terminal VFR (simulcast on 133.85)<br /> 128.0 Sea-Tac Clearance Delivery<br /> 128.15 Seattle Center (Redmond, OR / Scappoose)<br /> 128.25 San Juan Advisory freq<br /> to quote Colin... &quot;All aircraft in the San Juan Island areas are<br /> encouraged to monitor and report on this freq&quot;<br /> 128.3 Seattle Center (Larch Mtn) - Olympia and Elma area<br /> 128.45 Seattle Center (Mullan Pass)<br /> 128.5 Seattle Center (Ft. Lawton) - airspace under 6000 ft<br /> 128.6 Vancouver Appr<br /> 128.65 Paine Field ATIS<br /> 128.75 ?<br /> <br /> 128.825 - 132.05 Corporate en-route &amp; ACARS<br /> <br /> Inbound flights usually report in about 10 to 15 minutes before landing. <br /> An inbound flight usually will make fuel requests (if needed) and give<br /> ETA. The base will respond with a gate assignment.<br /> <br /> Outbound flights usually report in about 5 to 10 minutes after takeoff.<br /> An outbound flight will report takeoff time, fuel status, passenger load,<br /> and cargo weight.<br /> <br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Sun Country Airlines<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Aeroflot<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Omni Air Int'l (handled by Premier Avai 1 ground services)<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Martinair (outbound) (handled by Slatterly ground services)<br /> 128.825 Portland Aero Air (FBO) Learjet maintenance<br /> 128.9 BFI Airpac Airlines<br /> 128.9 Vancouver Cathay Pacific (inbound)<br /> 128.925 Sea-Tac Signature (FBO) fueling &amp; ground transportation<br /> 128.95 Vancouver Kelowna Flightcraft (Purolator)<br /> 128.975 ? unknown airline (outbound) to Penticton/Cranbrook<br /> 129.0 Sea-Tac Air Canada (handled by United)<br /> 129.0 Vancouver Canada 3000 Airlines ('Elite xxx')<br /> 129.025 BFI Galvin Flight Services (FBO)<br /> 129.1 ? Light aircraft operating in the Vancouver area<br /> 129.2 ? Canadian planes - some flights going to Calgary<br /> 129.2 ? &quot;Timber 1&quot; and &quot;Timber 2&quot; - possibly Timberline Air or Kwatna Timber<br /> 129.2 ? inbound to sea-tac<br /> 129.225 Sea-Tac American Airlines<br /> 129.325 Sea-Tac Horizon Airlines<br /> 129.375 Sea-Tac Casino Express<br /> 129.4 Sea-Tac ARINC - San Francisco Radio<br /> 129.425 BFI UPS (also Vancouver, Victoria, Pt. Angeles)<br /> 129.45 Vancouver America West Airlines (handled by United)<br /> 129.45 Vancouver United Airlines and United Express (Skywest)<br /> 129.5 Sea-Tac United Airlines<br /> 129.5 Sea-Tac Shuttle by United ('Air Coach xxx')<br /> 129.5 Portland Delta Airlines<br /> 129.55 Victoria Canadian Airlines (outbound)<br /> 129.575 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 129.6 Sea-Tac American Trans Air ('Amtran xxx')<br /> 129.6 Sea-Tac Omni Air (inbound) calling Slattery Ground Services - no response<br /> 129.7 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 129.725 Sea-Tac Cargolux Air Freight<br /> 129.775 Vancouver Air Canada (outbound ops)<br /> 129.825 Seattle Airlift NW (helicopters), also Lear 359EF doing patient transport<br /> 129.85 ARINC - San Francisco Radio<br /> 129.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines (maintenance)<br /> 129.925 Sea-Tac Continental Airlines<br /> 130.0 Air Canada - possibly inbound for Penticton<br /> 130.025 ACARS data<br /> 130.05 Sea-Tac British Airways<br /> 130.1 Sea-Tac Delta Airlines<br /> 130.1 Sea-Tac Vanguard Airlines<br /> 130.125 ? Light aircraft operating in the San Juans<br /> 130.15 Portland American Airlines<br /> 130.175 Vancouver/Victoria Air Canada<br /> 130.200 Vancouver British Airways<br /> 130.225 Sea-Tac old TWA freq. Unknown if used now.<br /> 130.25 Sea-Tac Kitty Hawk (Air freight)<br /> 130.275 ? ?<br /> 130.3 Kenmore Air Harbor &amp; Lake Union Air<br /> 130.35 Vancouver Air Canada<br /> 130.375 ? (Canada - inbound to Richmond)<br /> 130.45 Sea-Tac Scandinavian Airlines<br /> 130.45 Sea-Tac China Airlines ('Dynasty xxx')<br /> 130.475 Vancouver Air Canada ? (maintenance)<br /> 130.5 Portland Alaska Airlines<br /> 130.525 Bellingham United Express<br /> 130.575 Vancouver West Jet<br /> 130.6 ?<br /> 130.625 San Juans West Isle Air<br /> 130.65 Sea-Tac National Airlines ('Red Rock xxx')<br /> 130.65 ? unknown airline '125' calling operations<br /> 130.675 Vancouver Continental Airlines<br /> 130.7 ? small commercial passenger planes going to Vancouver Harbor &amp; Victoria -<br /> probably Harbour Air Seaplanes, might be Baxter Air...<br /> 130.7 Sea-Tac Scandinavian Airlines (inbound)<br /> 130.725 Sea-Tac Horizon Airlines/Big Sky Airlines (inbound), Northwest Airlines<br /> 130.75 ACARS data<br /> 130.8 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 130.825 Sea-Tac Frontier Airlines<br /> 130.85 Sea-Tac Southwest Airlines<br /> 130.875 Sea-Tac Alaska Airlines (outbound)<br /> 130.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines/Air Canada (outbound)<br /> 130.925 Sea-Tac America West Airlines ('Cactus xxx')<br /> 130.95 ? unknown airline (outbound) '1240'<br /> 131.0 BFI Airborne Express ('ABEX xxx') maintenance<br /> 131.025 ? - light aircraft or helicopter w/fuel requests<br /> 131.05 Sea-Tac United Express (Skywest)<br /> 131.15 Sea-Tac US Air<br /> 131.2 Sea-Tac Alaska Airlines (inbound)<br /> 131.25 Vancouver Helijet Airways<br /> 131.275 ? unknown commercial airliners - Vancouver<br /> 131.35 Portland Horizon Airlines<br /> 131.4 ?<br /> 131.425 Sea-Tac EVA Air<br /> 131.45 ? (Canada)<br /> 131.475 ACARS data (Air Canada)<br /> 131.525 ? unknown airline - San Juans, BFI, Pt. Townsend, Friday Harbor - scenic flights<br /> possibly Vashon Island Air<br /> 131.55 ACARS data (primary)<br /> 131.6 Sea-Tac old Harbor Airlines freq. Unknown if used now.<br /> 131.6 San Juans Harbor Airlines<br /> 131.625 Sea-Tac DHL ('Reliant xxx')<br /> 131.675 ? (Canada - outbound) '103' calling operations<br /> 131.7 Sea-Tac Northwest Airlines (inbound)<br /> 131.7 Sea-Tac Hawaiian Airlines (inbound) - handled by Northwest<br /> 131.725 Sea-Tac Evergreen Air Freight<br /> 131.75 BFI Aeroflight<br /> 131.75 bonanza 82159 calling unknown base station<br /> 131.8 ? ?<br /> 131.825 Paine Field FedEx (secondary when they can't contact on 131.925)<br /> 131.825 ? ? (maintenance)<br /> 131.85 ? ?<br /> 131.875 Vancouver West Jet<br /> 131.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines (maintenance)<br /> 131.925 FedEx (Sea-Tac, Portland, Paine Field)<br /> 131.925 Sea-Tac Empire Airlines (outbound)<br /> 131.95 ? ?<br /> 132.0 Vancouver Alaska Airlines<br /> 132.0 Bellingham Horizon (inbound)<br /> 132.025 BFI Flight Center (FBO)<br /> <br /> 132.075 - 136.475 ATC &amp; ATIS&lt;<br /> 132.075 Seattle Center (Horton)<br /> 132.2 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.3 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.4 ?<br /> 132.6 Seattle Center (Yakima)<br /> 132.7 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.95 Paine Tower<br /> 133.0 Portland Appr<br /> 133.1 ?<br /> 133.5 Vancouver Center<br /> 133.65 Sea-Tac Appr<br /> 133.7 Vancouver Center<br /> 133.85 Victoria Appr (Victoria Terminal main VFR freq) simulcast on 127.8<br /> 133.95 Victoria Terminal (north - Nanaimo)<br /> 134.15 Ault Field (Whidbey Island) ATIS<br /> 134.4 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.55 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.8 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.95 Seattle Center (Whidbey Island) - Mt. Vernon/Bellingham area<br /> 135.05 Vancouver Center<br /> 135.1 Whidbey Island NAS Clearance Delivery<br /> 135.45 Seattle Center (The Dalles)<br /> 135.5 Vancouver Center<br /> 135.525 Seattle Center (Beacon Hill)<br /> 135.625 Arlington AWOS<br /> <br /> 136.5 - 136.975 Corporate en-route &amp; ACARS<br /> 136.525 Sea-Tac Emery Air Freight<br /> 136.850 ACARS data<br /> <br /> A real air chart will provide more detailed information than what is listed<br /> here. This is a simple compilation of comm intercepts.<br /> All of these frequencies can be heard from the Puget Sound area.<br /> <br /> Simulcasting is very common in this area for ATC and control towers.<br /> Here are some typical simulcast groups:<br /> <br /> 118.2 / 120.7<br /> 119.2 / 119.5 / 120.4<br /> 119.7 / 121.7<br /> 120.2 / 132.95<br /> 120.3 / 128.5<br /> 120.3 / 125.1 / 126.6 / 135.525<br /> 121.1 / 127.1<br /> 123.9 / 125.9 / 133.65<br /> 125.6 / 125.9 / <br /> 125.1 / 134.95<br /> 125.1 / 128.5 / 134.95<br /> 128.5 / 134.95<br /> <br /> also crossband simulcasting to the UHF military air band:<br /> <br /> 118.3 / 257.8 (BFI Tower)<br /> 119.2 / 284.7 (Sea-Tac Tower)<br /> 120.2 / 132.95 / 287.9 / 339.8 (Paine Tower)<br /> 120.3 / 273.6<br /> 120.4 / 395.0<br /> 123.9 / 338.2<br /> 125.1 / 319.2<br /> 126.6 / 343.6<br /> 128.65 / 387.0 (Paine ATIS)<br /> 134.95 / 270.3<br /> <br /> <br /> Ramp freqs<br /> 452.100 Horizon Airlines Ground<br /> 460.650 Southwest Airlines Ground<br /> 460.675 America West Airlines Ground<br /> 460.700 R (100.0) Alaska Airlines Ground/Maintenance<br /> 460.725 R (203.5) United Airlines Ground<br /> 460.750 R (114.8) Delta Airlines Ground<br /> 460.775 R (100.0) Alaska Airlines Ground<br /> 460.800 Horizon Airlines Ground<br /> 460.850 R (127.3) ?<br /> 460.875 R (192.8) Northwest/Continental Airlines Ground<br /> <br /> <br /> Check out the &quot;Northwest Aircraft Communications&quot; web page for more information.<br /> (Its on the Intercept &quot;Links&quot; page)<br /> <br /> Thanks to Matt, Tad, Dennis &amp; everyone else who contributed info for this page.<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Railroad==<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://www.railroadradio.net railroadradio.net live audio]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div-pa.gif BNSF system map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/bnsflist.htm older BN freq list with channel numbers]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/bnsfd.htm BNSF detector list]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> 160.035 Victoria<br /> 160.215 Tacoma (unverified)<br /> 160.230 Fife Yard or Argo Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.260 Green Mountain repeater. Heard units in Snohomish.<br /> 160.320 supposedly BNSF Delta Yard. Heard miscellaneous simplex comms.<br /> 160.335 unknown usage. Hear data bursts about every 4 minutes.<br /> 160.380 Cascade Tunnel (unverified)<br /> 160.470 Seattle Yard<br /> 160.590 (PBX) Snohomish/Skagit/Whatcom co.<br /> 160.620 (PBX) &quot;MRAS&quot;<br /> 160.650 Balmer Yard, Tacoma Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.665 Operations - Thurston Co.<br /> 160.710 ARES data bursts from trains<br /> 160.725 unknown. Supposedly BNSF<br /> 160.740 Spokane (unverified)<br /> 160.800 Yakima Valley Terminal (unverified)<br /> 160.830 Stacy Yard (unverified), also hear repair crews on this freq.<br /> 160.920 Seattle East<br /> 160.980 South Seattle Ramp (unverified)<br /> 161.010 miscellaneous yard usage<br /> 161.100 BNSF &quot;Seattle East&quot; (Edmonds east to Lyons Wa (Spokane). Also detectors.<br /> 161,100 BNSF &quot;Centralia South&quot; Tenino-Vancouver Jct WA <br /> 161.160 South Seattle Yard. &quot;Seattle Terminal Dispatcher&quot; Tukwila-King Street<br /> 161.250 Delta &amp; Bayside Yard, Bridge 37, Line Everett north to Canada. Also detectors.<br /> 161.250 Harbor Island (unverified)<br /> 161.250 BNSFSwtiching Centralia Yard<br /> 161.250 BNSF Auburn-SP&amp;S Jct (Kennewick) (thanks Don !)<br /> 161.310 Seattle Yard, Balmer Hump, Tacoma Yard (unverified)<br /> 161.370 work crews, &quot;North Service 5&quot;<br /> 161.400 unknown BNSF. Occasional data bursts.<br /> 161.415 BNSF &quot;Centralia North&quot; Tenino-Tukwila<br /> 161.415 CN Joint Vancouver BC (unverified)<br /> 161.460 Puget Sound &amp; Pacific channel 2 (unverified)<br /> 161.475 Puget Sound &amp; Pacific channel 1 Main Ch.<br /> 161.505 Seattle Yard (unverified)<br /> 161.550 appears to be a yard channel.<br /> 457.9125 unknown BNSF<br /> 452.9375 MARY transceiver<br /> 457.9375 FRED transceiver<br /> 452.900 unknown<br /> 452.9125<br /> 452.925/457.925 DPU<br /> 452.950/457.950 DPU <br /> 911.500 &quot;<br /> 918.500 &quot;<br /> <br /> 936.8875, 936.9375, 936.9875 ATCS transmitters - I have yet to hear activity<br /> on these freqs however I've seen 900mhz beam antennas at some local railroad<br /> crossings. <br /> <br /> <br /> Union Pacific<br /> 160.290 (PBX) Haven't heard it in a while. Possibly abandoned.<br /> 160.350 160.410 160.800 Argo Yard and Fife Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.515 &quot;2727&quot; Road Ch. Argo (S Seattle to Reservation, Tacoma)<br /> 160.740 &quot;4242&quot; Road Ch. Eastern Washington (Hinkle Ore to Eastport Id.) <br /> 160.605 (PBX) also some strange tone data bursts<br /> 160.680 Yard channel<br /> 161.235 Thurston County<br /> 160.785 &quot;4545&quot; Road Ch. Cascade Summit Ore to K Falls<br /> <br /> AMTRAK<br /> 160.455 supposedly Amtrak's on-board freq.<br /> 160.620 BNSF/Amtrak (PBX) &quot;MRAS&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> Tacoma Rail<br /> 161.070 <br /> 161.145 (E Olympia-Belmore)<br /> <br /> 160.575 161.190 (unverified)<br /> 161.295 traffic heard-Yard? <br /> 161.445 (Tideflats Yard Tacoma)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Simpson Timber Railroad (Shelton)<br /> 160.440 161.340 <br /> <br /> 160.845 161.085 (unverified)<br /> <br /> <br /> Curtis Milburn Railroad (Thurston Co.)<br /> 160.245 <br /> <br /> <br /> Mt. Rainier Scenic Railroad<br /> 160.635 (unverified)<br /> <br /> Mt. Vernon Terminal Railway<br /> 160.875 (unverified)<br /> <br /> BC Rail<br /> 160.305 BC Rail (Vancouver)<br /> <br /> Puget Sound Historic Railway<br /> 161.355 (unverified)<br /> <br /> Chehalis-Centralia Railroad<br /> no frequencies on file<br /> <br /> Lake Whatcom Railway<br /> <br /> no frequencies on file<br /> <br /> Other<br /> 160.275 unknown. Comes in too weak at my place to copy.<br /> 160.380 units &quot;Quebec Base&quot; and &quot;Papa 3&quot;. No idea who it is.<br /> 160.530 unknown<br /> 160.785 Unknown railroad - rarely used<br /> 160.950 Unknown railroad<br /> 160.980 Unknown railroad. Possibly Canada.<br /> 160.995 repeater input<br /> 161.025 unknown railroad<br /> 161.175 unknown railroad<br /> 161.325 unknown railroad<br /> 161.430 unknown<br /> 161.520 repeater input, also unknown simplex comms.<br /> <br /> ==Puget Sound Energy==<br /> <br /> <br /> S = Simplex R = Repeater PL tone in parentheses ()<br /> <br /> Electric<br /> 153.410 On-scene simplex ?<br /> 153.425 S (103.5) Whidbey Island<br /> 153.440 S (103.5) Puyallup/Buckley area<br /> 153.545 S (103.5) Whatcom Co. &amp; Thurston Co.<br /> 153.605 S (103.5) Kirkland/Redmond<br /> 153.620 S (103.5) Skagit Co. ,(possibly North Bend too, not verified)<br /> 153.635 S (103.5) Pt. Townsend &amp; Vashon Is.<br /> 153.650 S (103.5) Bellevue/Factoria<br /> 153.680 S (103.5) Auburn/South King Co.<br /> 158.130 I haven't copied anything on this freq. Supposedly Kitsap Co.<br /> 158.145 &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; Renton<br /> <br /> 451.050 R (103.5) Radio Shop<br /> 451.1375 Telemetry heard in Bellingham<br /> 451.225<br /> 451.250 R (103.5) Unknown use<br /> 451.700<br /> <br /> <br /> Gas<br /> 900mhz EDACS trunked (EDACS Narrow - 4800 baud)<br /> LCN numbers in parentheses ()<br /> <br /> Capitol Peak (site 1)<br /> ??? <br /> <br /> Gold Mt. (site 2)<br /> 936.3875 (1)<br /> 936.400 (2)<br /> 936.4125 (3)<br /> 936.425 (4)<br /> <br /> Tiger Mt. (site 3)<br /> 936.4375 (1)<br /> 936.450 (2)<br /> 936.4625 (3)<br /> 936.000 (4)<br /> <br /> Gunsite Ridge (Granite Falls) (site 4)<br /> 936.475 (1)<br /> 936.450 (2) <br /> 936.500 (3)<br /> 937.4125 (4)<br /> <br /> Tacoma (28th st) (site 5)<br /> 936.475<br /> <br /> Sumner (White River) (site 6)<br /> 936.900 (1)<br /> (2) is possibly 936.9125<br /> 936.925 (3)<br /> 936.950 (4)<br /> <br /> Columbia (Seattle) (site 7)<br /> 935.450 (1)<br /> 935.4625 (2)<br /> 935.475 (3)<br /> 935.4875 (4)<br /> 935.500 (5)<br /> <br /> Talkgroups<br /> ------------------------------------------------------------------------<br /> Hex Dec AFS:<br /> 0111 273 02-021<br /> 0116 278 02-026<br /> 011A 282 02-032<br /> 011C 284 02-034 appears to be Gas service dispatch<br /> 011D 285 02-035<br /> 011E 286 02-036<br /> 011F 287 02-037 appears to be Gas service dispatch for the Issaquah area<br /> 0121 289 02-041 used in Snohomish county (gas service dispatch)<br /> 0122 290 02-042<br /> 012C 300 02-054 <br /> 0133 307 02-063<br /> 0147 327 02-087<br /> 0163 355 02-123<br /> 0171 369 02-141<br /> <br /> <br /> Notes<br /> Not a lot of traffic on this system. It can be easily scanned without<br /> an EDACS-capable trunking scanner by putting in all the freqs for one<br /> of the sites and then locking out the control channel.<br /> <br /> Thanks to Dennis and Flash for their contributions.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Mutual Aid, State Ops, I-Call, and I-Tac==<br /> <br /> <br /> Mutual-aid channels are available so different<br /> public safety agencies have common channels they<br /> can use to communicate with other agencies.<br /> <br /> 153.830 is the statewide fire mutual aid channel. On the air<br /> you might hear it referred to as &quot;Red Net&quot; or &quot;Firecom&quot;.<br /> Its typically used for comms when multiple fire departments<br /> respond to an incident. Sometimes it will be used within a<br /> department as a spare tactical channel.<br /> <br /> 155.370 is used throughout most of the state as a police<br /> mutual aid channel. Its called &quot;LERN&quot; (Law Enforcement<br /> Radio Network). Basically the same usage rules as &quot;Red Net&quot;.<br /> This is commonly used when there is a police pursuit<br /> involving State Patrol and city/county police departments.<br /> LERN is also patched into the King County regional trunk system.<br /> <br /> 155.475 is the national law enforcement emergency channel (NLEC).<br /> Its rarely used in the Puget Sound area.<br /> <br /> 156.135 is OSCCR - On Scene Command &amp; Coordination Radio. Typically<br /> used by State Patrol at major accident scenes. Occasional<br /> tactical usage by city/county agencies.<br /> <br /> 155.190 is MARS - Mutual Aid Radio. Its a crossband system linking<br /> a VHF repeater, a UHF repeater, and the King County regional<br /> trunk system. Its typically used by agencies with incompatible<br /> radio systems (for example WSP talking to Seattle PD). Its<br /> often used for pursuits and sometimes for the King County<br /> Guardian 1 helicopter.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> State Ops refers to five 800mhz simplex channels. <br /> <br /> I-Call and I-Tac are 800mhz conventional repeaters.<br /> <br /> Some or all of these are programmed into agencies that use 800mhz radios.<br /> Commonly heard users of these freqs are Police, Fire, and State DOT.<br /> <br /> Besides short range on-scene tactical comms, these freqs are also useful<br /> for comms between radios that have incompatible trunking formats (for example<br /> the Johnson MultiNet radios used by State DOT can talk to the Motorola<br /> trunked radios used by King County).<br /> <br /> Since the repeaters are conventional, they could function as a backup during<br /> a catastrophic trunk system failure in addition to site-trunking.<br /> <br /> State Ops, I-Call, and I-Tac use a CTCSS (PL) tone of 156.7<br /> <br /> State Ops<br /> 867.5375 State Ops 1<br /> 867.5625 State Ops 2<br /> 867.5875 State Ops 3<br /> 867.6125 State Ops 4<br /> 867.6375 State Ops 5<br /> <br /> <br /> I-Call and I-Tac<br /> 866.0125 I-Call Squak Mtn.<br /> 866.5125 I-Tac 1 South King County (Cambridge)<br /> 867.0125 I-Tac 2 Bellevue (near Somerset)<br /> 867.5125 I-Tac 3 Seattle (Capitol Hill)<br /> 868.0125 I-Tac 4 Shoreline (Crista Ministries tower)</div> Sat, 16 Aug 2014 01:05:37 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:WA_State http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/WA_State <p>Rich:&#32;/* Aircraft frequencies */</p> <hr /> <div>==Washington State statewide frequencies==<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/radiomap.gif Puget Sound repeater sites]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/service_area_map.pdf Puget Sound Energy service area map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div-pa.gif BNSF Western Washington map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div_nw.pdf BNSF Pacific NW states map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.kellykeeton.com/radio/NWWAmilepost.pdf Western WA Milepost map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/NR/rdonlyres/8CFBC47D-3549-4CB9-9DE6-14CE9739671F/0/RailSystemMap_Aug2007.pdf Washington state DOT rail system map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Marine Radio==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> 156.250 5A VTS Port Angeles<br /> 156.350 7 Foss Tugs<br /> 156.350 7A Port of Seattle VTS ?<br /> 156.450 9 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.500 10 Red Stack Tugs<br /> 156.600 12 USN Bangor Operations<br /> 156.650 13 Bridges<br /> 156.700 14 VTS, Puget Sound south of Whidbey Is.<br /> 156.800 16 Calling/Distress<br /> 156.900 18 Vessel Assist &quot;Primary&quot;<br /> 156.950 19 Argosy Tour Boats<br /> 157.050 21 USCG Air Operations<br /> 157.100 22 USCG Surface Operations<br /> 157.150 23A US Coast Guard Port Ops, some SeaFair usage<br /> 161.900 26 Radiotelephone - Seattle<br /> 161.950 27 Radiotelephone - BC Tel<br /> 162.000 28 Radiotelephone - Bellingham<br /> 156.275 65 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.325 66 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.375 67 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.425 68 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.475 69 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.525 70 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.625 72 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.675 73 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.725 74 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.875 77 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.975 79A Washington State Ferries<br /> 157.075 81 USCG Special Operations (SeaFair, etc.)<br /> 157.175 83 USCG Special Operations<br /> 157.175 83A US Coast Guard Auxiliary<br /> 161.825 84 Vancouver Coast Guard<br /> 161.875 85 Radiotelephone - Tumwater<br /> 161.975 87 Radiotelephone - Whidbey Island<br /> <br /> (VTS means Vessel Traffic System)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Weather Radio==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> 161.650 Canada - Vancouver Coast Guard radio (channel 21B) transmitter on Mt. Park<br /> 162.400 CFA240 Canada - Vancouver/Victoria<br /> 162.400 WXL86 NOAA Spokane<br /> 162.425 WWJ24 NOAA Maynard Pk. (Puget Sound Marine wx)<br /> 162.425 KXI27 NOAA Forks<br /> 162.425 WWH27 NOAA Plymouth<br /> 162.450 WWF56 NOAA Richland<br /> 162.475 WXM62 NOAA Bawfaw Pk. (Olympia area)<br /> 162.475 Canada - Victoria<br /> 162.475 WXM48 NOAA Wenatchee<br /> 162.525 WWF49 NOAA Tunk Mt. (Okanogan area)<br /> 162.550 KHB60 NOAA Cougar Mt. (Puget Sound area)<br /> 162.550 KIH36 NOAA Neah Bay<br /> 162.550 KIG75 NOAA Yakima<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Washington State Patrol==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> S = simplex, R = Repeater output CTCSS tones in parenthesis ()<br /> <br /> District 1: Pierce &amp; Thurston County<br /> HQ: Tacoma<br /> Detachments: Gig Harbor, Olympia<br /> <br /> 1 TAC-W 155.520 S Pierce Co. Dispatch (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 TAC-E 154.740 S North &amp; NE Pierce Co. (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 5 OLYMPIA 154.920 S Thurston Co. Dispatch (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 6 D1 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 7 LERN 155.370 S (100.0) <br /> 8 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 2: King County <br /> HQ: Bellevue<br /> Detachments: Bellevue, Enumclaw, Seattle North, Seattle South<br /> <br /> 1 SEA-N 155.580 R (100.0) King Co. Dispatch (input 158.790 PL 100.0)<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S<br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S<br /> 4 SEA-S 154.680 R (100.0) South King Co. (input 151.115 PL 100.0)<br /> 5 SEA-E 155.580 R (100.0) same as ch.1<br /> 6 D2 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 100.0 PL)<br /> 7 WESTIN 155.970 R State (input 159.075 PL 100.0)<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> District 3: Yakima, Benton, Franklin, Walla Walla, Columbia, Garfield, Asotin County<br /> HQ: Union Gap<br /> Detachments: Kennewick, Grandview, Walla Walla<br /> <br /> 1 YAKIMA 154.920 R (173.8) (input 159.075 PL 173.8) Yakima Co., Garfield Co.<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 KENWICK 155.520 S (mobiles use 173.8 PL) Benton Co., Franklin Co., Walla Walla Co.<br /> 5 WHT PAS 155.970 R (77.0) (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 6 PUF RPT 155.970 R (173.8) (input 158.790 PL 173.8)<br /> 7 D3 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 173.8PL)<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 4: Spokane, Ferry, Stevens, Pend Oreille, Lincoln, Adams, Whitman County<br /> HQ: Spokane<br /> <br /> Detachments: Colfax, Colville, Ritzville<br /> Spokane Port of Entry - RR1 Westbound I-90, Milepost 299<br /> <br /> 1 SPOKANE 154.905 R NAC D40 SPOKANE AREA<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S ANALOG <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S ANALOG <br /> 4 COLVILLE 154.665 S NAC D40 COLVILLE, REPUBLIC, <br /> 5 STEPTOE 154.845 S NAC D40 STEPTOE BUTTE, LIND, CRESTON (West I-90,West SR2, South SR195).<br /> 6 PULL-ST 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 7 CALISPEL 155.970 R 156.7 PEND OREILLE NEWPORT (CALISPEL PEAK).<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S CAR/CAR N/E COUNTIES <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 5: Lewis, Klickitat, Cowlitz, Clark, Skamania, Wahkiakum County<br /> HQ: Vancouver<br /> Detachments: Chehalis, Goldendale, Kelso, Morton<br /> Ridgefield Port of Entry - 29317 Interstate 5, Ridgefield, WA<br /> <br /> 1 VANCOUV 154.680 R (input 155.580 PL 136.5) Clark &amp; Skamania Co.<br /> 2 CAR 3 154.755 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL)<br /> 3 CHEHALS 155.850 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL) Lewis Co.<br /> 4 KELSO 154.770 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL) Cowlitz Co.<br /> 5 GOLDALE 154.665 R (input 155.580 PL 136.5) Klickitat Co.<br /> 6 SUMMIT 155.970 R (77.0) (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 7 TOUTLE 155.970 R (88.5) (input 158.790 PL 136.5)<br /> 8 D5 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 136.5 PL)<br /> 9 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 10 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 6: Chelan, Okanogan, Kittitas, Douglas, Grant County<br /> HQ: Wenatchee<br /> Detachments: Cle Elum (CVD), Ellensburg, Moses Lake, Okanogan<br /> <br /> 1 WENATCH 154.935 R (123.0) (input 158.985 PL 123.0) Chelan Co., Douglas Co.<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 OKANOGN 154.680 R (123.0) (input 159.045 PL 123.0) Okanogan Co.<br /> 5 ELLENS 154.770 R (123.0) (input 155.850 PL 123.0) Kittitas Co.<br /> 6 EPHRATA 155.505 R (123.0) (input 154.695 PL 123.0) Grant Co.<br /> 7 SLATEPK 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 110.9)<br /> 8 STEV E 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 123.0)<br /> 9 D6 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 123.0 PL)<br /> 10 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 11 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> District 7: Snohomish, Skagit, Whatcom, San Juan, Island County<br /> HQ: Marysville<br /> Detachments: Bellingham, Burlington, Monroe, Oak Harbor, Silver Lake<br /> Bow Hill POE - I-5 Southbound milepost 236 (Bow) (Scale 33)<br /> Silverlake - Milepost 188 Southbound I-5, Everett, WA<br /> <br /> 1 EVERETT 155.655 R (141.3) (input 154.845 PL 141.3) Snohomish Co. &amp; Camano Is.<br /> 2 CAR 4 154.935 S<br /> 3 MT VERN 155.505 R (141.3) (input 159.045 PL 141.3) Skagit Co. &amp; Whidbey Is.<br /> 4 BELNGHM 154.755 R (141.3) (input 155.250 PL 141.3) Whatcom Co.<br /> 5 SHUKSAN 154.755 R (141.3) (input 158.790 PL 141.3)<br /> 6 CASCADE 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 173.8)<br /> 7 STEV W 155.970 R (input 154.845 PL 141.3)<br /> 8 D7 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 141.3 PL)<br /> 9 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 10 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> #7 = District HQ in Marysville<br /> 710 = Detachment Office at Silver Lake Rest Area.<br /> 711 = Detachment Office in Monroe<br /> 712 = Detachment Office in Mount Vernon<br /> 713 = Detachment Office in Bellingham<br /> 714 = Detachment Office in Oak Harbor<br /> <br /> Scale 38 is I-5 Northbound milepost 214<br /> <br /> District 8: Clallam, Jefferson, Grays Harbor, Pacific, Mason, Kitsap County<br /> HQ: Bremerton<br /> Detachments: Bremerton, Hoquiam, Port Angeles, Naselle, Shelton<br /> Naselle - 797 SR4, Naselle, WA <br /> <br /> 1 BREMRTN 154.665 R (110.9) (input 159.075 PL 110.9) Kitsap &amp; Mason Co.<br /> 2 CAR 4 154.935 S<br /> 3 PT ANG 154.770 S (110.9) Clallam &amp; Jefferson Co.(&quot;Gardiner&quot;) <br /> 4 HOQUIAM 154.695 S (mobiles use 110.9 PL) Grays Harbor &amp; Pacific Co. (&quot;Capitol&quot;)<br /> 5 CLR WTR 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 110.9)<br /> 6 D8 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 110.9 PL)<br /> 7 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 8 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> 'Hoquiam' = Grays Harbor Co.<br /> 'Naselle' or 'Astoria' = Pacific Co.<br /> <br /> <br /> All areas:<br /> 151.040 S WSP to DOT simplex (mountain passes)<br /> 155.970 R (none) State common (input 159.075)<br /> 155.970 S Simplex activity in various areas<br /> 155.970 S Liquor control board field agents<br /> 159.045 misc. on-scene ops (Eastern WA)<br /> 159.075 S F-28 old Aircraft freq.<br /> 151.115 S F-29 Link to DOT 800mhz radio system (Stevens Pass)(input to 154.680 WSP Seattle S)<br /> 155.445 S F-30<br /> 156.075 S F-32 Commercial Vehicle Enforcement (Scales) &amp; Youth Ecology Corps<br /> 158.985 S F-33 <br /> 159.105 S F-35<br /> 155.250 S F-36<br /> 156.135 S OSCCR<br /> 453.475 MDT or AVLS<br /> 453.925 MDT or AVLS<br /> 460.175 MDT<br /> 460.250 MDT<br /> 460.425 MDT<br /> 460.475 MDT<br /> 155.700 WSP Tac Squad (patrol cars do not have access to this channel)<br /> <br /> <br /> State Fish &amp; Wildlife DNR State Common (159.420) or other DNR frequencies. <br /> <br /> <br /> B(oy)- Capitol Security units bike patrol<br /> D(avid)- Detectives<br /> J(ay)- Employee of outside agency<br /> K(ing)- Canine unit<br /> M(ary)- Motorcycle unit<br /> O(cean)- Off Duty unit<br /> X- Non-Trooper WSP employee<br /> W/Wildlife- WDFW<br /> L/Liquor- WSLCB<br /> P/Parks- Park Rangers<br /> T/Tom- WSDOT Incident Response/Service Patrol<br /> F/Forest- USFS units<br /> C/Corrections- DOC Corrections Officers/Buses<br /> LI/Labor- L&amp;I Investigators<br /> H/Homeland- DHS<br /> G/Gaming- Gambling Commission Agents<br /> R/Reclamation- BLM units<br /> BN/Burlington Northern- BNSF RR Police<br /> UP/Union Pacific- UPRR Police<br /> CA/Child Admin- DSHS/CPS<br /> <br /> 1- WSP Chief<br /> 2- WSP Deputy Chief<br /> 3-5 WSP Assistant Chiefs<br /> 7-39 WSP Captains<br /> 21-28 District Commanders <br /> 40-99 Lieutenants<br /> 100-299 Sergeants<br /> 300 and up Troopers<br /> S-5 Department Pschologist<br /> S-9 Communications Division Administrator <br /> S14-22 Special Deputy<br /> <br /> X14-99 Electronic Services<br /> X101- Communications Division Assistant Administrator<br /> X-108 Communications Training Program Manager<br /> X111-118 Communications Station Managers<br /> X119-149 Communications Supervisors (Comm Off-3)<br /> X150-199 Communications Officer-2 (Trainers)<br /> X200-329 Communications Officers, Comm Off-1, Comm Off Assistants<br /> X330-339 Supply Section/Propery Management<br /> X340-379 Fire Protection<br /> X380-389 Misc<br /> X390-399 Evidence Control<br /> X400-419 Fleet<br /> X420-426 ACCESS/WACIC<br /> X427-458 IT<br /> X459-474 Identification<br /> X475-499 Property Management<br /> X500-599 Crime Lab<br /> X600-679 VIN Inspectors<br /> X680-689 MAIT<br /> X690-694 Aviation Unit<br /> X695-699 Breath Test<br /> X700-899 CVEO<br /> X900-999 CVEO Motor Carrier Safety Assistance Program<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Aircraft frequencies==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> <br /> (Aircraft freqs that can be heard from the Puget Sound area)<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/atc.jpg Washington State air traffic control VHF frequency map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/atc.bmp printable bitmap of the above map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> NDB (ADF) freqs can be found in the frequency database: &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/s.php?sfreq=4&amp;stype=B&amp;ssort=1&amp;cfreq=1&amp;cstate=1&amp;ccity=1&amp;z=1 NDB database]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/XX/arinc600a.jpg Enroute freqs for international flights (shortwave)]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/XX/arinc.jpg Older 1983 shortwave map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 108.0 - 117.975 VOR/DME/ILS navigation<br /> 110.6 PAE Paine Field VOR/DME<br /> 111.5 IAWO unknown - probably Arlington airport<br /> 113.7 YYJ Saltspring Island VOR<br /> 116.8 SEA Sea-Tac VOR/DME<br /> <br /> 118.0 - 121.4 ATC &amp; ATIS<br /> 118.0 Sea-Tac ATIS <br /> 118.1 Portland Appr<br /> 118.2 Whidbey Appr<br /> 118.3 BFI Tower<br /> 118.5 Tacoma Tower (Rwy 17)<br /> 118.55 Seattle Center (Yakima)<br /> 118.9 BFI Clearance Delivery<br /> 119.1 ? Possibly Victoria Tower<br /> 119.2 Sea-Tac Departure<br /> 119.5 Seattle Appr <br /> 119.65 Seattle Center (The Dalles)<br /> 119.7 Victoria Tower<br /> 119.9 Sea-Tac Tower<br /> 120.1 Seattle Appr <br /> 120.2 Paine Tower<br /> 120.3 Seattle Center (Beacon Hill)<br /> 120.4 Seattle Appr <br /> 120.6 BFI Tower<br /> 120.7 Whidbey Appr<br /> 121.1 Seattle Center Appr/Dep<br /> 121.125 Skagit Regional (AWOS)<br /> 121.2 Bremerton ATIS<br /> 121.35 Seattle Center (Oregon area?)<br /> <br /> 121.5 Emergency &amp; ELT<br /> <br /> 121.6 - 121.9 Ground Control<br /> <br /> 121.7 Sea-Tac Ground Control<br /> 121.75 ? Ground Control - unknown airport<br /> 121.8 ? Possibly Paine Field ground control<br /> <br /> 121.95 - 122.675 FSS &amp; misc.<br /> 122.1 Nanaimo FSS<br /> 122.55 Seattle FSS<br /> <br /> 122.7 - 123.2 Unicom &amp; misc.<br /> 122.7 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Arlington, Bremerton, Sequim, Hoquiam, Kenmore (seaplanes)<br /> <br /> 122.775 Traffic Helicopters (primary)<br /> <br /> 122.8 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Anacortes, Friday Harbor, Oak Harbor, Blaine, Chehalis-Centralia, Auburn,<br /> Thun Field (Puyallup), Sky Harbor (Sultan), Sanderson Field (Shelton)<br /> <br /> 123.0 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Kent, Snohomish (Harvey Field), Burlington, Pt. Townsend<br /> <br /> 123.025 Unicom - Helicopters (local Traffic Helicopters secondary)<br /> <br /> 123.2 - 123.675 Misc.<br /> 123.275 Boeing test flights<br /> 123.3 Gliders<br /> 123.5 Gliders<br /> <br /> 123.7 - 128.8 ATC &amp; ATIS<br /> 123.7 Comox Terminal<br /> 123.8 Chinook Appr<br /> 123.9 Seattle Appr<br /> 124.05 Tacoma Narrows ATIS<br /> 124.2 Seattle Center (Scappoose)<br /> <br /> 124.4 Olympia Tower<br /> 124.65 Gray AAF (Ft. Lewis) ATIS<br /> 124.7 Renton Tower<br /> 124.8 McChord Tower (Rwy 34)<br /> 124.9 Bellingham Tower<br /> 125.1 Seattle Center (Neah Bay) - Olympic Peninsula<br /> 125.6 Seattle Center (approaching aircraft 16k-9k)<br /> 125.8 Seattle Center (Horton)<br /> 125.9 Seattle Appr<br /> 125.95 Vancouver Center <br /> 126.1 Seattle Center (Wenatchee)<br /> 126.125 Vancouver Terminal<br /> 126.2 Gray Tower (Rwy 15)<br /> 126.5 Seattle Appr<br /> 126.6 Seattle Center (Larch Mtn) - areas South and East of Tacoma<br /> 126.95 Renton ATIS<br /> 127.1 Advisory Freq - not sure what area it covers<br /> 127.75 Boeing Field ATIS<br /> 127.8 Victoria Terminal VFR (simulcast on 133.85)<br /> 128.0 Sea-Tac Clearance Delivery<br /> 128.15 Seattle Center (Redmond, OR / Scappoose)<br /> 128.25 San Juan Advisory freq<br /> to quote Colin... &quot;All aircraft in the San Juan Island areas are<br /> encouraged to monitor and report on this freq&quot;<br /> 128.3 Seattle Center (Larch Mtn) - Olympia and Elma area<br /> 128.45 Seattle Center (Mullan Pass)<br /> 128.5 Seattle Center (Ft. Lawton) - airspace under 6000 ft<br /> 128.6 Vancouver Appr<br /> 128.65 Paine Field ATIS<br /> 128.75 ?<br /> <br /> 128.825 - 132.05 Corporate en-route &amp; ACARS<br /> <br /> Inbound flights usually report in about 10 to 15 minutes before landing. <br /> An inbound flight usually will make fuel requests (if needed) and give<br /> ETA. The base will respond with a gate assignment.<br /> <br /> Outbound flights usually report in about 5 to 10 minutes after takeoff.<br /> An outbound flight will report takeoff time, fuel status, passenger load,<br /> and cargo weight.<br /> <br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Sun Country Airlines<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Aeroflot<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Omni Air Int'l (handled by Premier Avai 1 ground services)<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Martinair (outbound) (handled by Slatterly ground services)<br /> 128.825 Portland Aero Air (FBO) Learjet maintenance<br /> 128.9 BFI Airpac Airlines<br /> 128.9 Vancouver Cathay Pacific (inbound)<br /> 128.925 Sea-Tac Signature (FBO) fueling &amp; ground transportation<br /> 128.95 Vancouver Kelowna Flightcraft (Purolator)<br /> 128.975 ? unknown airline (outbound) to Penticton/Cranbrook<br /> 129.0 Sea-Tac Air Canada (handled by United)<br /> 129.0 Vancouver Canada 3000 Airlines ('Elite xxx')<br /> 129.025 BFI Galvin Flight Services (FBO)<br /> 129.1 ? Light aircraft operating in the Vancouver area<br /> 129.2 ? Canadian planes - some flights going to Calgary<br /> 129.2 ? &quot;Timber 1&quot; and &quot;Timber 2&quot; - possibly Timberline Air or Kwatna Timber<br /> 129.2 ? inbound to sea-tac<br /> 129.225 Sea-Tac American Airlines<br /> 129.325 Sea-Tac Horizon Airlines<br /> 129.375 Sea-Tac Casino Express<br /> 129.4 Sea-Tac ARINC - San Francisco Radio<br /> 129.425 BFI UPS (also Vancouver, Victoria, Pt. Angeles)<br /> 129.45 Vancouver America West Airlines (handled by United)<br /> 129.45 Vancouver United Airlines and United Express (Skywest)<br /> 129.5 Sea-Tac United Airlines<br /> 129.5 Sea-Tac Shuttle by United ('Air Coach xxx')<br /> 129.5 Portland Delta Airlines<br /> 129.55 Victoria Canadian Airlines (outbound)<br /> 129.575 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 129.6 Sea-Tac American Trans Air ('Amtran xxx')<br /> 129.6 Sea-Tac Omni Air (inbound) calling Slattery Ground Services - no response<br /> 129.7 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 129.725 Sea-Tac Cargolux Air Freight<br /> 129.775 Vancouver Air Canada (outbound ops)<br /> 129.825 Seattle Airlift NW (helicopters), also Lear 359EF doing patient transport<br /> 129.85 ARINC - San Francisco Radio<br /> 129.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines (maintenance)<br /> 129.925 Sea-Tac Continental Airlines<br /> 130.0 Air Canada - possibly inbound for Penticton<br /> 130.025 ACARS data<br /> 130.05 Sea-Tac British Airways<br /> 130.1 Sea-Tac Delta Airlines<br /> 130.1 Sea-Tac Vanguard Airlines<br /> 130.125 ? Light aircraft operating in the San Juans<br /> 130.15 Portland American Airlines<br /> 130.175 Vancouver/Victoria Air Canada<br /> 130.200 Vancouver British Airways<br /> 130.225 Sea-Tac old TWA freq. Unknown if used now.<br /> 130.25 Sea-Tac Kitty Hawk (Air freight)<br /> 130.275 ? ?<br /> 130.3 Kenmore Air Harbor &amp; Lake Union Air<br /> 130.35 Vancouver Air Canada<br /> 130.375 ? (Canada - inbound to Richmond)<br /> 130.45 Sea-Tac Scandinavian Airlines<br /> 130.45 Sea-Tac China Airlines ('Dynasty xxx')<br /> 130.475 Vancouver Air Canada ? (maintenance)<br /> 130.5 Portland Alaska Airlines<br /> 130.525 Bellingham United Express<br /> 130.575 Vancouver West Jet<br /> 130.6 ?<br /> 130.625 San Juans West Isle Air<br /> 130.65 Sea-Tac National Airlines ('Red Rock xxx')<br /> 130.65 ? unknown airline '125' calling operations<br /> 130.675 Vancouver Continental Airlines<br /> 130.7 ? small commercial passenger planes going to Vancouver Harbor &amp; Victoria -<br /> probably Harbour Air Seaplanes, might be Baxter Air...<br /> 130.7 Sea-Tac Scandinavian Airlines (inbound)<br /> 130.725 Sea-Tac Horizon Airlines/Big Sky Airlines (inbound), Northwest Airlines<br /> 130.75 ACARS data<br /> 130.8 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 130.825 Sea-Tac Frontier Airlines<br /> 130.85 Sea-Tac Southwest Airlines<br /> 130.875 Sea-Tac Alaska Airlines (outbound)<br /> 130.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines/Air Canada (outbound)<br /> 130.925 Sea-Tac America West Airlines ('Cactus xxx')<br /> 130.95 ? unknown airline (outbound) '1240'<br /> 131.0 BFI Airborne Express ('ABEX xxx') maintenance<br /> 131.025 ? - light aircraft or helicopter w/fuel requests<br /> 131.05 Sea-Tac United Express (Skywest)<br /> 131.15 Sea-Tac US Air<br /> 131.2 Sea-Tac Alaska Airlines (inbound)<br /> 131.25 Vancouver Helijet Airways<br /> 131.275 ? unknown commercial airliners - Vancouver<br /> 131.35 Portland Horizon Airlines<br /> 131.4 ?<br /> 131.425 Sea-Tac EVA Air<br /> 131.45 ? (Canada)<br /> 131.475 ACARS data (Air Canada)<br /> 131.525 ? unknown airline - San Juans, BFI, Pt. Townsend, Friday Harbor - scenic flights<br /> possibly Vashon Island Air<br /> 131.55 ACARS data (primary)<br /> 131.6 Sea-Tac old Harbor Airlines freq. Unknown if used now.<br /> 131.6 San Juans Harbor Airlines<br /> 131.625 Sea-Tac DHL ('Reliant xxx')<br /> 131.675 ? (Canada - outbound) '103' calling operations<br /> 131.7 Sea-Tac Northwest Airlines (inbound)<br /> 131.7 Sea-Tac Hawaiian Airlines (inbound) - handled by Northwest<br /> 131.725 Sea-Tac Evergreen Air Freight<br /> 131.75 BFI Aeroflight<br /> 131.75 bonanza 82159 calling unknown base station<br /> 131.8 ? ?<br /> 131.825 Paine Field FedEx (secondary when they can't contact on 131.925)<br /> 131.825 ? ? (maintenance)<br /> 131.85 ? ?<br /> 131.875 Vancouver West Jet<br /> 131.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines (maintenance)<br /> 131.925 FedEx (Sea-Tac, Portland, Paine Field)<br /> 131.925 Sea-Tac Empire Airlines (outbound)<br /> 131.95 ? ?<br /> 132.0 Vancouver Alaska Airlines<br /> 132.0 Bellingham Horizon (inbound)<br /> 132.025 BFI Flight Center (FBO)<br /> <br /> 132.075 - 136.475 ATC &amp; ATIS&lt;<br /> 132.075 Seattle Center (Horton)<br /> 132.2 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.3 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.4 ?<br /> 132.6 Seattle Center (Yakima)<br /> 132.7 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.95 Paine Tower<br /> 133.0 Portland Appr<br /> 133.1 ?<br /> 133.5 Vancouver Center<br /> 133.65 Sea-Tac Appr<br /> 133.7 Vancouver Center<br /> 133.85 Victoria Appr (Victoria Terminal main VFR freq) simulcast on 127.8<br /> 133.95 Victoria Terminal (north - Nanaimo)<br /> 134.15 Ault Field (Whidbey Island) ATIS<br /> 134.4 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.55 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.8 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.95 Seattle Center (Whidbey Island) - Mt. Vernon/Bellingham area<br /> 135.05 Vancouver Center<br /> 135.1 Whidbey Island NAS Clearance Delivery<br /> 135.45 Seattle Center (The Dalles)<br /> 135.5 Vancouver Center<br /> 135.525 Seattle Center (Beacon Hill)<br /> 135.625 Arlington AWOS<br /> <br /> 136.5 - 136.975 Corporate en-route &amp; ACARS<br /> 136.525 Sea-Tac Emery Air Freight<br /> 136.850 ACARS data<br /> <br /> A real air chart will provide more detailed information than what is listed<br /> here. This is a simple compilation of comm intercepts.<br /> All of these frequencies can be heard from the Puget Sound area.<br /> <br /> Simulcasting is very common in this area for ATC and control towers.<br /> Here are some typical simulcast groups:<br /> <br /> 118.2 / 120.7<br /> 119.2 / 119.5 / 120.4<br /> 119.7 / 121.7<br /> 120.2 / 132.95<br /> 120.3 / 128.5<br /> 120.3 / 125.1 / 126.6 / 135.525<br /> 121.1 / 127.1<br /> 123.9 / 125.9 / 133.65<br /> 125.6 / 125.9 / <br /> 125.1 / 134.95<br /> 125.1 / 128.5 / 134.95<br /> 128.5 / 134.95<br /> <br /> also crossband simulcasting to the UHF military air band:<br /> <br /> 118.3 / 257.8 (BFI Tower)<br /> 119.2 / 284.7 (Sea-Tac Tower)<br /> 120.2 / 132.95 / 287.9 / 339.8 (Paine Tower)<br /> 120.3 / 273.6<br /> 120.4 / 395.0<br /> 123.9 / 338.2<br /> 125.1 / 319.2<br /> 126.6 / 343.6<br /> 128.65 / 387.0 (Paine ATIS)<br /> 134.95 / 270.3<br /> <br /> <br /> Ramp freqs<br /> 452.100 Horizon Airlines Ground<br /> 460.650 Southwest Airlines Ground<br /> 460.675 America West Airlines Ground<br /> 460.700 R (100.0) Alaska Airlines Ground/Maintenance<br /> 460.725 R (203.5) United Airlines Ground<br /> 460.750 R (114.8) Delta Airlines Ground<br /> 460.775 R (100.0) Alaska Airlines Ground<br /> 460.800 Horizon Airlines Ground<br /> 460.850 R (127.3) ?<br /> 460.875 R (192.8) Northwest/Continental Airlines Ground<br /> <br /> <br /> Check out the &quot;Northwest Aircraft Communications&quot; web page for more information.<br /> (Its on the Intercept &quot;Links&quot; page)<br /> <br /> Thanks to Matt, Tad, Dennis &amp; everyone else who contributed info for this page.<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Railroad==<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://www.railroadradio.net railroadradio.net live audio]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div-pa.gif BNSF system map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/bnsflist.htm older BN freq list with channel numbers]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/bnsfd.htm BNSF detector list]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> 160.035 Victoria<br /> 160.215 Tacoma (unverified)<br /> 160.230 Fife Yard or Argo Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.260 Green Mountain repeater. Heard units in Snohomish.<br /> 160.320 supposedly BNSF Delta Yard. Heard miscellaneous simplex comms.<br /> 160.335 unknown usage. Hear data bursts about every 4 minutes.<br /> 160.380 Cascade Tunnel (unverified)<br /> 160.470 Seattle Yard<br /> 160.590 (PBX) Snohomish/Skagit/Whatcom co.<br /> 160.620 (PBX) &quot;MRAS&quot;<br /> 160.650 Balmer Yard, Tacoma Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.665 Operations - Thurston Co.<br /> 160.710 ARES data bursts from trains<br /> 160.725 unknown. Supposedly BNSF<br /> 160.740 Spokane (unverified)<br /> 160.800 Yakima Valley Terminal (unverified)<br /> 160.830 Stacy Yard (unverified), also hear repair crews on this freq.<br /> 160.920 Seattle East<br /> 160.980 South Seattle Ramp (unverified)<br /> 161.010 miscellaneous yard usage<br /> 161.100 BNSF &quot;Seattle East&quot; (Edmonds east to Lyons Wa (Spokane). Also detectors.<br /> 161,100 BNSF &quot;Centralia South&quot; Tenino-Vancouver Jct WA <br /> 161.160 South Seattle Yard. &quot;Seattle Terminal Dispatcher&quot; Tukwila-King Street<br /> 161.250 Delta &amp; Bayside Yard, Bridge 37, Line Everett north to Canada. Also detectors.<br /> 161.250 Harbor Island (unverified)<br /> 161.250 BNSFSwtiching Centralia Yard<br /> 161.250 BNSF Auburn-SP&amp;S Jct (Kennewick) (thanks Don !)<br /> 161.310 Seattle Yard, Balmer Hump, Tacoma Yard (unverified)<br /> 161.370 work crews, &quot;North Service 5&quot;<br /> 161.400 unknown BNSF. Occasional data bursts.<br /> 161.415 BNSF &quot;Centralia North&quot; Tenino-Tukwila<br /> 161.415 CN Joint Vancouver BC (unverified)<br /> 161.460 Puget Sound &amp; Pacific channel 2 (unverified)<br /> 161.475 Puget Sound &amp; Pacific channel 1 Main Ch.<br /> 161.505 Seattle Yard (unverified)<br /> 161.550 appears to be a yard channel.<br /> 457.9125 unknown BNSF<br /> 452.9375 MARY transceiver<br /> 457.9375 FRED transceiver<br /> 452.900 unknown<br /> 452.9125<br /> 452.925/457.925 DPU<br /> 452.950/457.950 DPU <br /> 911.500 &quot;<br /> 918.500 &quot;<br /> <br /> 936.8875, 936.9375, 936.9875 ATCS transmitters - I have yet to hear activity<br /> on these freqs however I've seen 900mhz beam antennas at some local railroad<br /> crossings. <br /> <br /> <br /> Union Pacific<br /> 160.290 (PBX) Haven't heard it in a while. Possibly abandoned.<br /> 160.350 160.410 160.800 Argo Yard and Fife Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.515 &quot;2727&quot; Road Ch. Argo (S Seattle to Reservation, Tacoma)<br /> 160.740 &quot;4242&quot; Road Ch. Eastern Washington (Hinkle Ore to Eastport Id.) <br /> 160.605 (PBX) also some strange tone data bursts<br /> 160.680 Yard channel<br /> 161.235 Thurston County<br /> 160.785 &quot;4545&quot; Road Ch. Cascade Summit Ore to K Falls<br /> <br /> AMTRAK<br /> 160.455 supposedly Amtrak's on-board freq.<br /> 160.620 BNSF/Amtrak (PBX) &quot;MRAS&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> Tacoma Rail<br /> 161.070 <br /> 161.145 (E Olympia-Belmore)<br /> <br /> 160.575 161.190 (unverified)<br /> 161.295 traffic heard-Yard? <br /> 161.445 (Tideflats Yard Tacoma)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Simpson Timber Railroad (Shelton)<br /> 160.440 161.340 <br /> <br /> 160.845 161.085 (unverified)<br /> <br /> <br /> Curtis Milburn Railroad (Thurston Co.)<br /> 160.245 <br /> <br /> <br /> Mt. Rainier Scenic Railroad<br /> 160.635 (unverified)<br /> <br /> Mt. Vernon Terminal Railway<br /> 160.875 (unverified)<br /> <br /> BC Rail<br /> 160.305 BC Rail (Vancouver)<br /> <br /> Puget Sound Historic Railway<br /> 161.355 (unverified)<br /> <br /> Chehalis-Centralia Railroad<br /> no frequencies on file<br /> <br /> Lake Whatcom Railway<br /> <br /> no frequencies on file<br /> <br /> Other<br /> 160.275 unknown. Comes in too weak at my place to copy.<br /> 160.380 units &quot;Quebec Base&quot; and &quot;Papa 3&quot;. No idea who it is.<br /> 160.530 unknown<br /> 160.785 Unknown railroad - rarely used<br /> 160.950 Unknown railroad<br /> 160.980 Unknown railroad. Possibly Canada.<br /> 160.995 repeater input<br /> 161.025 unknown railroad<br /> 161.175 unknown railroad<br /> 161.325 unknown railroad<br /> 161.430 unknown<br /> 161.520 repeater input, also unknown simplex comms.<br /> <br /> ==Puget Sound Energy==<br /> <br /> <br /> S = Simplex R = Repeater PL tone in parentheses ()<br /> <br /> Electric<br /> 153.410 On-scene simplex ?<br /> 153.425 S (103.5) Whidbey Island<br /> 153.440 S (103.5) Puyallup/Buckley area<br /> 153.545 S (103.5) Whatcom Co. &amp; Thurston Co.<br /> 153.605 S (103.5) Kirkland/Redmond<br /> 153.620 S (103.5) Skagit Co. ,(possibly North Bend too, not verified)<br /> 153.635 S (103.5) Pt. Townsend &amp; Vashon Is.<br /> 153.650 S (103.5) Bellevue/Factoria<br /> 153.680 S (103.5) Auburn/South King Co.<br /> 158.130 I haven't copied anything on this freq. Supposedly Kitsap Co.<br /> 158.145 &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; Renton<br /> <br /> 451.050 R (103.5) Radio Shop<br /> 451.1375 Telemetry heard in Bellingham<br /> 451.225<br /> 451.250 R (103.5) Unknown use<br /> 451.700<br /> <br /> <br /> Gas<br /> 900mhz EDACS trunked (EDACS Narrow - 4800 baud)<br /> LCN numbers in parentheses ()<br /> <br /> Capitol Peak (site 1)<br /> ??? <br /> <br /> Gold Mt. (site 2)<br /> 936.3875 (1)<br /> 936.400 (2)<br /> 936.4125 (3)<br /> 936.425 (4)<br /> <br /> Tiger Mt. (site 3)<br /> 936.4375 (1)<br /> 936.450 (2)<br /> 936.4625 (3)<br /> 936.000 (4)<br /> <br /> Gunsite Ridge (Granite Falls) (site 4)<br /> 936.475 (1)<br /> 936.450 (2) <br /> 936.500 (3)<br /> 937.4125 (4)<br /> <br /> Tacoma (28th st) (site 5)<br /> 936.475<br /> <br /> Sumner (White River) (site 6)<br /> 936.900 (1)<br /> (2) is possibly 936.9125<br /> 936.925 (3)<br /> 936.950 (4)<br /> <br /> Columbia (Seattle) (site 7)<br /> 935.450 (1)<br /> 935.4625 (2)<br /> 935.475 (3)<br /> 935.4875 (4)<br /> 935.500 (5)<br /> <br /> Talkgroups<br /> ------------------------------------------------------------------------<br /> Hex Dec AFS:<br /> 0111 273 02-021<br /> 0116 278 02-026<br /> 011A 282 02-032<br /> 011C 284 02-034 appears to be Gas service dispatch<br /> 011D 285 02-035<br /> 011E 286 02-036<br /> 011F 287 02-037 appears to be Gas service dispatch for the Issaquah area<br /> 0121 289 02-041 used in Snohomish county (gas service dispatch)<br /> 0122 290 02-042<br /> 012C 300 02-054 <br /> 0133 307 02-063<br /> 0147 327 02-087<br /> 0163 355 02-123<br /> 0171 369 02-141<br /> <br /> <br /> Notes<br /> Not a lot of traffic on this system. It can be easily scanned without<br /> an EDACS-capable trunking scanner by putting in all the freqs for one<br /> of the sites and then locking out the control channel.<br /> <br /> Thanks to Dennis and Flash for their contributions.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Mutual Aid, State Ops, I-Call, and I-Tac==<br /> <br /> <br /> Mutual-aid channels are available so different<br /> public safety agencies have common channels they<br /> can use to communicate with other agencies.<br /> <br /> 153.830 is the statewide fire mutual aid channel. On the air<br /> you might hear it referred to as &quot;Red Net&quot; or &quot;Firecom&quot;.<br /> Its typically used for comms when multiple fire departments<br /> respond to an incident. Sometimes it will be used within a<br /> department as a spare tactical channel.<br /> <br /> 155.370 is used throughout most of the state as a police<br /> mutual aid channel. Its called &quot;LERN&quot; (Law Enforcement<br /> Radio Network). Basically the same usage rules as &quot;Red Net&quot;.<br /> This is commonly used when there is a police pursuit<br /> involving State Patrol and city/county police departments.<br /> LERN is also patched into the King County regional trunk system.<br /> <br /> 155.475 is the national law enforcement emergency channel (NLEC).<br /> Its rarely used in the Puget Sound area.<br /> <br /> 156.135 is OSCCR - On Scene Command &amp; Coordination Radio. Typically<br /> used by State Patrol at major accident scenes. Occasional<br /> tactical usage by city/county agencies.<br /> <br /> 155.190 is MARS - Mutual Aid Radio. Its a crossband system linking<br /> a VHF repeater, a UHF repeater, and the King County regional<br /> trunk system. Its typically used by agencies with incompatible<br /> radio systems (for example WSP talking to Seattle PD). Its<br /> often used for pursuits and sometimes for the King County<br /> Guardian 1 helicopter.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> State Ops refers to five 800mhz simplex channels. <br /> <br /> I-Call and I-Tac are 800mhz conventional repeaters.<br /> <br /> Some or all of these are programmed into agencies that use 800mhz radios.<br /> Commonly heard users of these freqs are Police, Fire, and State DOT.<br /> <br /> Besides short range on-scene tactical comms, these freqs are also useful<br /> for comms between radios that have incompatible trunking formats (for example<br /> the Johnson MultiNet radios used by State DOT can talk to the Motorola<br /> trunked radios used by King County).<br /> <br /> Since the repeaters are conventional, they could function as a backup during<br /> a catastrophic trunk system failure in addition to site-trunking.<br /> <br /> State Ops, I-Call, and I-Tac use a CTCSS (PL) tone of 156.7<br /> <br /> State Ops<br /> 867.5375 State Ops 1<br /> 867.5625 State Ops 2<br /> 867.5875 State Ops 3<br /> 867.6125 State Ops 4<br /> 867.6375 State Ops 5<br /> <br /> <br /> I-Call and I-Tac<br /> 866.0125 I-Call Squak Mtn.<br /> 866.5125 I-Tac 1 South King County (Cambridge)<br /> 867.0125 I-Tac 2 Bellevue (near Somerset)<br /> 867.5125 I-Tac 3 Seattle (Capitol Hill)<br /> 868.0125 I-Tac 4 Shoreline (Crista Ministries tower)</div> Sat, 16 Aug 2014 01:05:15 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:WA_State http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/WA_State <p>Rich:&#32;/* Washington State Patrol */</p> <hr /> <div>==Washington State statewide frequencies==<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/radiomap.gif Puget Sound repeater sites]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/service_area_map.pdf Puget Sound Energy service area map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div-pa.gif BNSF Western Washington map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div_nw.pdf BNSF Pacific NW states map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.kellykeeton.com/radio/NWWAmilepost.pdf Western WA Milepost map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/NR/rdonlyres/8CFBC47D-3549-4CB9-9DE6-14CE9739671F/0/RailSystemMap_Aug2007.pdf Washington state DOT rail system map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Marine Radio==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> 156.250 5A VTS Port Angeles<br /> 156.350 7 Foss Tugs<br /> 156.350 7A Port of Seattle VTS ?<br /> 156.450 9 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.500 10 Red Stack Tugs<br /> 156.600 12 USN Bangor Operations<br /> 156.650 13 Bridges<br /> 156.700 14 VTS, Puget Sound south of Whidbey Is.<br /> 156.800 16 Calling/Distress<br /> 156.900 18 Vessel Assist &quot;Primary&quot;<br /> 156.950 19 Argosy Tour Boats<br /> 157.050 21 USCG Air Operations<br /> 157.100 22 USCG Surface Operations<br /> 157.150 23A US Coast Guard Port Ops, some SeaFair usage<br /> 161.900 26 Radiotelephone - Seattle<br /> 161.950 27 Radiotelephone - BC Tel<br /> 162.000 28 Radiotelephone - Bellingham<br /> 156.275 65 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.325 66 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.375 67 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.425 68 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.475 69 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.525 70 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.625 72 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.675 73 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.725 74 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.875 77 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.975 79A Washington State Ferries<br /> 157.075 81 USCG Special Operations (SeaFair, etc.)<br /> 157.175 83 USCG Special Operations<br /> 157.175 83A US Coast Guard Auxiliary<br /> 161.825 84 Vancouver Coast Guard<br /> 161.875 85 Radiotelephone - Tumwater<br /> 161.975 87 Radiotelephone - Whidbey Island<br /> <br /> (VTS means Vessel Traffic System)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Weather Radio==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> 161.650 Canada - Vancouver Coast Guard radio (channel 21B) transmitter on Mt. Park<br /> 162.400 CFA240 Canada - Vancouver/Victoria<br /> 162.400 WXL86 NOAA Spokane<br /> 162.425 WWJ24 NOAA Maynard Pk. (Puget Sound Marine wx)<br /> 162.425 KXI27 NOAA Forks<br /> 162.425 WWH27 NOAA Plymouth<br /> 162.450 WWF56 NOAA Richland<br /> 162.475 WXM62 NOAA Bawfaw Pk. (Olympia area)<br /> 162.475 Canada - Victoria<br /> 162.475 WXM48 NOAA Wenatchee<br /> 162.525 WWF49 NOAA Tunk Mt. (Okanogan area)<br /> 162.550 KHB60 NOAA Cougar Mt. (Puget Sound area)<br /> 162.550 KIH36 NOAA Neah Bay<br /> 162.550 KIG75 NOAA Yakima<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Washington State Patrol==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> S = simplex, R = Repeater output CTCSS tones in parenthesis ()<br /> <br /> District 1: Pierce &amp; Thurston County<br /> HQ: Tacoma<br /> Detachments: Gig Harbor, Olympia<br /> <br /> 1 TAC-W 155.520 S Pierce Co. Dispatch (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 TAC-E 154.740 S North &amp; NE Pierce Co. (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 5 OLYMPIA 154.920 S Thurston Co. Dispatch (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 6 D1 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 7 LERN 155.370 S (100.0) <br /> 8 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 2: King County <br /> HQ: Bellevue<br /> Detachments: Bellevue, Enumclaw, Seattle North, Seattle South<br /> <br /> 1 SEA-N 155.580 R (100.0) King Co. Dispatch (input 158.790 PL 100.0)<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S<br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S<br /> 4 SEA-S 154.680 R (100.0) South King Co. (input 151.115 PL 100.0)<br /> 5 SEA-E 155.580 R (100.0) same as ch.1<br /> 6 D2 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 100.0 PL)<br /> 7 WESTIN 155.970 R State (input 159.075 PL 100.0)<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> District 3: Yakima, Benton, Franklin, Walla Walla, Columbia, Garfield, Asotin County<br /> HQ: Union Gap<br /> Detachments: Kennewick, Grandview, Walla Walla<br /> <br /> 1 YAKIMA 154.920 R (173.8) (input 159.075 PL 173.8) Yakima Co., Garfield Co.<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 KENWICK 155.520 S (mobiles use 173.8 PL) Benton Co., Franklin Co., Walla Walla Co.<br /> 5 WHT PAS 155.970 R (77.0) (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 6 PUF RPT 155.970 R (173.8) (input 158.790 PL 173.8)<br /> 7 D3 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 173.8PL)<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 4: Spokane, Ferry, Stevens, Pend Oreille, Lincoln, Adams, Whitman County<br /> HQ: Spokane<br /> <br /> Detachments: Colfax, Colville, Ritzville<br /> Spokane Port of Entry - RR1 Westbound I-90, Milepost 299<br /> <br /> 1 SPOKANE 154.905 R NAC D40 SPOKANE AREA<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S ANALOG <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S ANALOG <br /> 4 COLVILLE 154.665 S NAC D40 COLVILLE, REPUBLIC, <br /> 5 STEPTOE 154.845 S NAC D40 STEPTOE BUTTE, LIND, CRESTON (West I-90,West SR2, South SR195).<br /> 6 PULL-ST 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 7 CALISPEL 155.970 R 156.7 PEND OREILLE NEWPORT (CALISPEL PEAK).<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S CAR/CAR N/E COUNTIES <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 5: Lewis, Klickitat, Cowlitz, Clark, Skamania, Wahkiakum County<br /> HQ: Vancouver<br /> Detachments: Chehalis, Goldendale, Kelso, Morton<br /> Ridgefield Port of Entry - 29317 Interstate 5, Ridgefield, WA<br /> <br /> 1 VANCOUV 154.680 R (input 155.580 PL 136.5) Clark &amp; Skamania Co.<br /> 2 CAR 3 154.755 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL)<br /> 3 CHEHALS 155.850 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL) Lewis Co.<br /> 4 KELSO 154.770 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL) Cowlitz Co.<br /> 5 GOLDALE 154.665 R (input 155.580 PL 136.5) Klickitat Co.<br /> 6 SUMMIT 155.970 R (77.0) (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 7 TOUTLE 155.970 R (88.5) (input 158.790 PL 136.5)<br /> 8 D5 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 136.5 PL)<br /> 9 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 10 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 6: Chelan, Okanogan, Kittitas, Douglas, Grant County<br /> HQ: Wenatchee<br /> Detachments: Cle Elum (CVD), Ellensburg, Moses Lake, Okanogan<br /> <br /> 1 WENATCH 154.935 R (123.0) (input 158.985 PL 123.0) Chelan Co., Douglas Co.<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 OKANOGN 154.680 R (123.0) (input 159.045 PL 123.0) Okanogan Co.<br /> 5 ELLENS 154.770 R (123.0) (input 155.850 PL 123.0) Kittitas Co.<br /> 6 EPHRATA 155.505 R (123.0) (input 154.695 PL 123.0) Grant Co.<br /> 7 SLATEPK 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 110.9)<br /> 8 STEV E 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 123.0)<br /> 9 D6 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 123.0 PL)<br /> 10 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 11 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> District 7: Snohomish, Skagit, Whatcom, San Juan, Island County<br /> HQ: Marysville<br /> Detachments: Bellingham, Burlington, Monroe, Oak Harbor, Silver Lake<br /> Bow Hill POE - I-5 Southbound milepost 236 (Bow) (Scale 33)<br /> Silverlake - Milepost 188 Southbound I-5, Everett, WA<br /> <br /> 1 EVERETT 155.655 R (141.3) (input 154.845 PL 141.3) Snohomish Co. &amp; Camano Is.<br /> 2 CAR 4 154.935 S<br /> 3 MT VERN 155.505 R (141.3) (input 159.045 PL 141.3) Skagit Co. &amp; Whidbey Is.<br /> 4 BELNGHM 154.755 R (141.3) (input 155.250 PL 141.3) Whatcom Co.<br /> 5 SHUKSAN 154.755 R (141.3) (input 158.790 PL 141.3)<br /> 6 CASCADE 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 173.8)<br /> 7 STEV W 155.970 R (input 154.845 PL 141.3)<br /> 8 D7 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 141.3 PL)<br /> 9 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 10 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> #7 = District HQ in Marysville<br /> 710 = Detachment Office at Silver Lake Rest Area.<br /> 711 = Detachment Office in Monroe<br /> 712 = Detachment Office in Mount Vernon<br /> 713 = Detachment Office in Bellingham<br /> 714 = Detachment Office in Oak Harbor<br /> <br /> Scale 38 is I-5 Northbound milepost 214<br /> <br /> District 8: Clallam, Jefferson, Grays Harbor, Pacific, Mason, Kitsap County<br /> HQ: Bremerton<br /> Detachments: Bremerton, Hoquiam, Port Angeles, Naselle, Shelton<br /> Naselle - 797 SR4, Naselle, WA <br /> <br /> 1 BREMRTN 154.665 R (110.9) (input 159.075 PL 110.9) Kitsap &amp; Mason Co.<br /> 2 CAR 4 154.935 S<br /> 3 PT ANG 154.770 S (110.9) Clallam &amp; Jefferson Co.(&quot;Gardiner&quot;) <br /> 4 HOQUIAM 154.695 S (mobiles use 110.9 PL) Grays Harbor &amp; Pacific Co. (&quot;Capitol&quot;)<br /> 5 CLR WTR 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 110.9)<br /> 6 D8 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 110.9 PL)<br /> 7 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 8 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> 'Hoquiam' = Grays Harbor Co.<br /> 'Naselle' or 'Astoria' = Pacific Co.<br /> <br /> <br /> All areas:<br /> 151.040 S WSP to DOT simplex (mountain passes)<br /> 155.970 R (none) State common (input 159.075)<br /> 155.970 S Simplex activity in various areas<br /> 155.970 S Liquor control board field agents<br /> 159.045 misc. on-scene ops (Eastern WA)<br /> 159.075 S F-28 old Aircraft freq.<br /> 151.115 S F-29 Link to DOT 800mhz radio system (Stevens Pass)(input to 154.680 WSP Seattle S)<br /> 155.445 S F-30<br /> 156.075 S F-32 Commercial Vehicle Enforcement (Scales) &amp; Youth Ecology Corps<br /> 158.985 S F-33 <br /> 159.105 S F-35<br /> 155.250 S F-36<br /> 156.135 S OSCCR<br /> 453.475 MDT or AVLS<br /> 453.925 MDT or AVLS<br /> 460.175 MDT<br /> 460.250 MDT<br /> 460.425 MDT<br /> 460.475 MDT<br /> 155.700 WSP Tac Squad (patrol cars do not have access to this channel)<br /> <br /> <br /> State Fish &amp; Wildlife DNR State Common (159.420) or other DNR frequencies. <br /> <br /> <br /> B(oy)- Capitol Security units bike patrol<br /> D(avid)- Detectives<br /> J(ay)- Employee of outside agency<br /> K(ing)- Canine unit<br /> M(ary)- Motorcycle unit<br /> O(cean)- Off Duty unit<br /> X- Non-Trooper WSP employee<br /> W/Wildlife- WDFW<br /> L/Liquor- WSLCB<br /> P/Parks- Park Rangers<br /> T/Tom- WSDOT Incident Response/Service Patrol<br /> F/Forest- USFS units<br /> C/Corrections- DOC Corrections Officers/Buses<br /> LI/Labor- L&amp;I Investigators<br /> H/Homeland- DHS<br /> G/Gaming- Gambling Commission Agents<br /> R/Reclamation- BLM units<br /> BN/Burlington Northern- BNSF RR Police<br /> UP/Union Pacific- UPRR Police<br /> CA/Child Admin- DSHS/CPS<br /> <br /> 1- WSP Chief<br /> 2- WSP Deputy Chief<br /> 3-5 WSP Assistant Chiefs<br /> 7-39 WSP Captains<br /> 21-28 District Commanders <br /> 40-99 Lieutenants<br /> 100-299 Sergeants<br /> 300 and up Troopers<br /> S-5 Department Pschologist<br /> S-9 Communications Division Administrator <br /> S14-22 Special Deputy<br /> <br /> X14-99 Electronic Services<br /> X101- Communications Division Assistant Administrator<br /> X-108 Communications Training Program Manager<br /> X111-118 Communications Station Managers<br /> X119-149 Communications Supervisors (Comm Off-3)<br /> X150-199 Communications Officer-2 (Trainers)<br /> X200-329 Communications Officers, Comm Off-1, Comm Off Assistants<br /> X330-339 Supply Section/Propery Management<br /> X340-379 Fire Protection<br /> X380-389 Misc<br /> X390-399 Evidence Control<br /> X400-419 Fleet<br /> X420-426 ACCESS/WACIC<br /> X427-458 IT<br /> X459-474 Identification<br /> X475-499 Property Management<br /> X500-599 Crime Lab<br /> X600-679 VIN Inspectors<br /> X680-689 MAIT<br /> X690-694 Aviation Unit<br /> X695-699 Breath Test<br /> X700-899 CVEO<br /> X900-999 CVEO Motor Carrier Safety Assistance Program<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Aircraft frequencies==<br /> <br /> <br /> (Aircraft freqs that can be heard from the Puget Sound area)<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/atc.jpg Washington State air traffic control VHF frequency map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/atc.bmp printable bitmap of the above map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> NDB (ADF) freqs can be found in the frequency database: &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/s.php?sfreq=4&amp;stype=B&amp;ssort=1&amp;cfreq=1&amp;cstate=1&amp;ccity=1&amp;z=1 NDB database]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/XX/arinc600a.jpg Enroute freqs for international flights (shortwave)]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/XX/arinc.jpg Older 1983 shortwave map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 108.0 - 117.975 VOR/DME/ILS navigation<br /> 110.6 PAE Paine Field VOR/DME<br /> 111.5 IAWO unknown - probably Arlington airport<br /> 113.7 YYJ Saltspring Island VOR<br /> 116.8 SEA Sea-Tac VOR/DME<br /> <br /> 118.0 - 121.4 ATC &amp; ATIS<br /> 118.0 Sea-Tac ATIS <br /> 118.1 Portland Appr<br /> 118.2 Whidbey Appr<br /> 118.3 BFI Tower<br /> 118.5 Tacoma Tower (Rwy 17)<br /> 118.55 Seattle Center (Yakima)<br /> 118.9 BFI Clearance Delivery<br /> 119.1 ? Possibly Victoria Tower<br /> 119.2 Sea-Tac Departure<br /> 119.5 Seattle Appr <br /> 119.65 Seattle Center (The Dalles)<br /> 119.7 Victoria Tower<br /> 119.9 Sea-Tac Tower<br /> 120.1 Seattle Appr <br /> 120.2 Paine Tower<br /> 120.3 Seattle Center (Beacon Hill)<br /> 120.4 Seattle Appr <br /> 120.6 BFI Tower<br /> 120.7 Whidbey Appr<br /> 121.1 Seattle Center Appr/Dep<br /> 121.125 Skagit Regional (AWOS)<br /> 121.2 Bremerton ATIS<br /> 121.35 Seattle Center (Oregon area?)<br /> <br /> 121.5 Emergency &amp; ELT<br /> <br /> 121.6 - 121.9 Ground Control<br /> <br /> 121.7 Sea-Tac Ground Control<br /> 121.75 ? Ground Control - unknown airport<br /> 121.8 ? Possibly Paine Field ground control<br /> <br /> 121.95 - 122.675 FSS &amp; misc.<br /> 122.1 Nanaimo FSS<br /> 122.55 Seattle FSS<br /> <br /> 122.7 - 123.2 Unicom &amp; misc.<br /> 122.7 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Arlington, Bremerton, Sequim, Hoquiam, Kenmore (seaplanes)<br /> <br /> 122.775 Traffic Helicopters (primary)<br /> <br /> 122.8 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Anacortes, Friday Harbor, Oak Harbor, Blaine, Chehalis-Centralia, Auburn,<br /> Thun Field (Puyallup), Sky Harbor (Sultan), Sanderson Field (Shelton)<br /> <br /> 123.0 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Kent, Snohomish (Harvey Field), Burlington, Pt. Townsend<br /> <br /> 123.025 Unicom - Helicopters (local Traffic Helicopters secondary)<br /> <br /> 123.2 - 123.675 Misc.<br /> 123.275 Boeing test flights<br /> 123.3 Gliders<br /> 123.5 Gliders<br /> <br /> 123.7 - 128.8 ATC &amp; ATIS<br /> 123.7 Comox Terminal<br /> 123.8 Chinook Appr<br /> 123.9 Seattle Appr<br /> 124.05 Tacoma Narrows ATIS<br /> 124.2 Seattle Center (Scappoose)<br /> <br /> 124.4 Olympia Tower<br /> 124.65 Gray AAF (Ft. Lewis) ATIS<br /> 124.7 Renton Tower<br /> 124.8 McChord Tower (Rwy 34)<br /> 124.9 Bellingham Tower<br /> 125.1 Seattle Center (Neah Bay) - Olympic Peninsula<br /> 125.6 Seattle Center (approaching aircraft 16k-9k)<br /> 125.8 Seattle Center (Horton)<br /> 125.9 Seattle Appr<br /> 125.95 Vancouver Center <br /> 126.1 Seattle Center (Wenatchee)<br /> 126.125 Vancouver Terminal<br /> 126.2 Gray Tower (Rwy 15)<br /> 126.5 Seattle Appr<br /> 126.6 Seattle Center (Larch Mtn) - areas South and East of Tacoma<br /> 126.95 Renton ATIS<br /> 127.1 Advisory Freq - not sure what area it covers<br /> 127.75 Boeing Field ATIS<br /> 127.8 Victoria Terminal VFR (simulcast on 133.85)<br /> 128.0 Sea-Tac Clearance Delivery<br /> 128.15 Seattle Center (Redmond, OR / Scappoose)<br /> 128.25 San Juan Advisory freq<br /> to quote Colin... &quot;All aircraft in the San Juan Island areas are<br /> encouraged to monitor and report on this freq&quot;<br /> 128.3 Seattle Center (Larch Mtn) - Olympia and Elma area<br /> 128.45 Seattle Center (Mullan Pass)<br /> 128.5 Seattle Center (Ft. Lawton) - airspace under 6000 ft<br /> 128.6 Vancouver Appr<br /> 128.65 Paine Field ATIS<br /> 128.75 ?<br /> <br /> 128.825 - 132.05 Corporate en-route &amp; ACARS<br /> <br /> Inbound flights usually report in about 10 to 15 minutes before landing. <br /> An inbound flight usually will make fuel requests (if needed) and give<br /> ETA. The base will respond with a gate assignment.<br /> <br /> Outbound flights usually report in about 5 to 10 minutes after takeoff.<br /> An outbound flight will report takeoff time, fuel status, passenger load,<br /> and cargo weight.<br /> <br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Sun Country Airlines<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Aeroflot<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Omni Air Int'l (handled by Premier Avai 1 ground services)<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Martinair (outbound) (handled by Slatterly ground services)<br /> 128.825 Portland Aero Air (FBO) Learjet maintenance<br /> 128.9 BFI Airpac Airlines<br /> 128.9 Vancouver Cathay Pacific (inbound)<br /> 128.925 Sea-Tac Signature (FBO) fueling &amp; ground transportation<br /> 128.95 Vancouver Kelowna Flightcraft (Purolator)<br /> 128.975 ? unknown airline (outbound) to Penticton/Cranbrook<br /> 129.0 Sea-Tac Air Canada (handled by United)<br /> 129.0 Vancouver Canada 3000 Airlines ('Elite xxx')<br /> 129.025 BFI Galvin Flight Services (FBO)<br /> 129.1 ? Light aircraft operating in the Vancouver area<br /> 129.2 ? Canadian planes - some flights going to Calgary<br /> 129.2 ? &quot;Timber 1&quot; and &quot;Timber 2&quot; - possibly Timberline Air or Kwatna Timber<br /> 129.2 ? inbound to sea-tac<br /> 129.225 Sea-Tac American Airlines<br /> 129.325 Sea-Tac Horizon Airlines<br /> 129.375 Sea-Tac Casino Express<br /> 129.4 Sea-Tac ARINC - San Francisco Radio<br /> 129.425 BFI UPS (also Vancouver, Victoria, Pt. Angeles)<br /> 129.45 Vancouver America West Airlines (handled by United)<br /> 129.45 Vancouver United Airlines and United Express (Skywest)<br /> 129.5 Sea-Tac United Airlines<br /> 129.5 Sea-Tac Shuttle by United ('Air Coach xxx')<br /> 129.5 Portland Delta Airlines<br /> 129.55 Victoria Canadian Airlines (outbound)<br /> 129.575 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 129.6 Sea-Tac American Trans Air ('Amtran xxx')<br /> 129.6 Sea-Tac Omni Air (inbound) calling Slattery Ground Services - no response<br /> 129.7 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 129.725 Sea-Tac Cargolux Air Freight<br /> 129.775 Vancouver Air Canada (outbound ops)<br /> 129.825 Seattle Airlift NW (helicopters), also Lear 359EF doing patient transport<br /> 129.85 ARINC - San Francisco Radio<br /> 129.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines (maintenance)<br /> 129.925 Sea-Tac Continental Airlines<br /> 130.0 Air Canada - possibly inbound for Penticton<br /> 130.025 ACARS data<br /> 130.05 Sea-Tac British Airways<br /> 130.1 Sea-Tac Delta Airlines<br /> 130.1 Sea-Tac Vanguard Airlines<br /> 130.125 ? Light aircraft operating in the San Juans<br /> 130.15 Portland American Airlines<br /> 130.175 Vancouver/Victoria Air Canada<br /> 130.200 Vancouver British Airways<br /> 130.225 Sea-Tac old TWA freq. Unknown if used now.<br /> 130.25 Sea-Tac Kitty Hawk (Air freight)<br /> 130.275 ? ?<br /> 130.3 Kenmore Air Harbor &amp; Lake Union Air<br /> 130.35 Vancouver Air Canada<br /> 130.375 ? (Canada - inbound to Richmond)<br /> 130.45 Sea-Tac Scandinavian Airlines<br /> 130.45 Sea-Tac China Airlines ('Dynasty xxx')<br /> 130.475 Vancouver Air Canada ? (maintenance)<br /> 130.5 Portland Alaska Airlines<br /> 130.525 Bellingham United Express<br /> 130.575 Vancouver West Jet<br /> 130.6 ?<br /> 130.625 San Juans West Isle Air<br /> 130.65 Sea-Tac National Airlines ('Red Rock xxx')<br /> 130.65 ? unknown airline '125' calling operations<br /> 130.675 Vancouver Continental Airlines<br /> 130.7 ? small commercial passenger planes going to Vancouver Harbor &amp; Victoria -<br /> probably Harbour Air Seaplanes, might be Baxter Air...<br /> 130.7 Sea-Tac Scandinavian Airlines (inbound)<br /> 130.725 Sea-Tac Horizon Airlines/Big Sky Airlines (inbound), Northwest Airlines<br /> 130.75 ACARS data<br /> 130.8 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 130.825 Sea-Tac Frontier Airlines<br /> 130.85 Sea-Tac Southwest Airlines<br /> 130.875 Sea-Tac Alaska Airlines (outbound)<br /> 130.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines/Air Canada (outbound)<br /> 130.925 Sea-Tac America West Airlines ('Cactus xxx')<br /> 130.95 ? unknown airline (outbound) '1240'<br /> 131.0 BFI Airborne Express ('ABEX xxx') maintenance<br /> 131.025 ? - light aircraft or helicopter w/fuel requests<br /> 131.05 Sea-Tac United Express (Skywest)<br /> 131.15 Sea-Tac US Air<br /> 131.2 Sea-Tac Alaska Airlines (inbound)<br /> 131.25 Vancouver Helijet Airways<br /> 131.275 ? unknown commercial airliners - Vancouver<br /> 131.35 Portland Horizon Airlines<br /> 131.4 ?<br /> 131.425 Sea-Tac EVA Air<br /> 131.45 ? (Canada)<br /> 131.475 ACARS data (Air Canada)<br /> 131.525 ? unknown airline - San Juans, BFI, Pt. Townsend, Friday Harbor - scenic flights<br /> possibly Vashon Island Air<br /> 131.55 ACARS data (primary)<br /> 131.6 Sea-Tac old Harbor Airlines freq. Unknown if used now.<br /> 131.6 San Juans Harbor Airlines<br /> 131.625 Sea-Tac DHL ('Reliant xxx')<br /> 131.675 ? (Canada - outbound) '103' calling operations<br /> 131.7 Sea-Tac Northwest Airlines (inbound)<br /> 131.7 Sea-Tac Hawaiian Airlines (inbound) - handled by Northwest<br /> 131.725 Sea-Tac Evergreen Air Freight<br /> 131.75 BFI Aeroflight<br /> 131.75 bonanza 82159 calling unknown base station<br /> 131.8 ? ?<br /> 131.825 Paine Field FedEx (secondary when they can't contact on 131.925)<br /> 131.825 ? ? (maintenance)<br /> 131.85 ? ?<br /> 131.875 Vancouver West Jet<br /> 131.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines (maintenance)<br /> 131.925 FedEx (Sea-Tac, Portland, Paine Field)<br /> 131.925 Sea-Tac Empire Airlines (outbound)<br /> 131.95 ? ?<br /> 132.0 Vancouver Alaska Airlines<br /> 132.0 Bellingham Horizon (inbound)<br /> 132.025 BFI Flight Center (FBO)<br /> <br /> 132.075 - 136.475 ATC &amp; ATIS&lt;<br /> 132.075 Seattle Center (Horton)<br /> 132.2 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.3 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.4 ?<br /> 132.6 Seattle Center (Yakima)<br /> 132.7 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.95 Paine Tower<br /> 133.0 Portland Appr<br /> 133.1 ?<br /> 133.5 Vancouver Center<br /> 133.65 Sea-Tac Appr<br /> 133.7 Vancouver Center<br /> 133.85 Victoria Appr (Victoria Terminal main VFR freq) simulcast on 127.8<br /> 133.95 Victoria Terminal (north - Nanaimo)<br /> 134.15 Ault Field (Whidbey Island) ATIS<br /> 134.4 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.55 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.8 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.95 Seattle Center (Whidbey Island) - Mt. Vernon/Bellingham area<br /> 135.05 Vancouver Center<br /> 135.1 Whidbey Island NAS Clearance Delivery<br /> 135.45 Seattle Center (The Dalles)<br /> 135.5 Vancouver Center<br /> 135.525 Seattle Center (Beacon Hill)<br /> 135.625 Arlington AWOS<br /> <br /> 136.5 - 136.975 Corporate en-route &amp; ACARS<br /> 136.525 Sea-Tac Emery Air Freight<br /> 136.850 ACARS data<br /> <br /> A real air chart will provide more detailed information than what is listed<br /> here. This is a simple compilation of comm intercepts.<br /> All of these frequencies can be heard from the Puget Sound area.<br /> <br /> Simulcasting is very common in this area for ATC and control towers.<br /> Here are some typical simulcast groups:<br /> <br /> 118.2 / 120.7<br /> 119.2 / 119.5 / 120.4<br /> 119.7 / 121.7<br /> 120.2 / 132.95<br /> 120.3 / 128.5<br /> 120.3 / 125.1 / 126.6 / 135.525<br /> 121.1 / 127.1<br /> 123.9 / 125.9 / 133.65<br /> 125.6 / 125.9 / <br /> 125.1 / 134.95<br /> 125.1 / 128.5 / 134.95<br /> 128.5 / 134.95<br /> <br /> also crossband simulcasting to the UHF military air band:<br /> <br /> 118.3 / 257.8 (BFI Tower)<br /> 119.2 / 284.7 (Sea-Tac Tower)<br /> 120.2 / 132.95 / 287.9 / 339.8 (Paine Tower)<br /> 120.3 / 273.6<br /> 120.4 / 395.0<br /> 123.9 / 338.2<br /> 125.1 / 319.2<br /> 126.6 / 343.6<br /> 128.65 / 387.0 (Paine ATIS)<br /> 134.95 / 270.3<br /> <br /> <br /> Ramp freqs<br /> 452.100 Horizon Airlines Ground<br /> 460.650 Southwest Airlines Ground<br /> 460.675 America West Airlines Ground<br /> 460.700 R (100.0) Alaska Airlines Ground/Maintenance<br /> 460.725 R (203.5) United Airlines Ground<br /> 460.750 R (114.8) Delta Airlines Ground<br /> 460.775 R (100.0) Alaska Airlines Ground<br /> 460.800 Horizon Airlines Ground<br /> 460.850 R (127.3) ?<br /> 460.875 R (192.8) Northwest/Continental Airlines Ground<br /> <br /> <br /> Check out the &quot;Northwest Aircraft Communications&quot; web page for more information.<br /> (Its on the Intercept &quot;Links&quot; page)<br /> <br /> Thanks to Matt, Tad, Dennis &amp; everyone else who contributed info for this page.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Railroad==<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://www.railroadradio.net railroadradio.net live audio]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div-pa.gif BNSF system map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/bnsflist.htm older BN freq list with channel numbers]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/bnsfd.htm BNSF detector list]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> 160.035 Victoria<br /> 160.215 Tacoma (unverified)<br /> 160.230 Fife Yard or Argo Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.260 Green Mountain repeater. Heard units in Snohomish.<br /> 160.320 supposedly BNSF Delta Yard. Heard miscellaneous simplex comms.<br /> 160.335 unknown usage. Hear data bursts about every 4 minutes.<br /> 160.380 Cascade Tunnel (unverified)<br /> 160.470 Seattle Yard<br /> 160.590 (PBX) Snohomish/Skagit/Whatcom co.<br /> 160.620 (PBX) &quot;MRAS&quot;<br /> 160.650 Balmer Yard, Tacoma Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.665 Operations - Thurston Co.<br /> 160.710 ARES data bursts from trains<br /> 160.725 unknown. Supposedly BNSF<br /> 160.740 Spokane (unverified)<br /> 160.800 Yakima Valley Terminal (unverified)<br /> 160.830 Stacy Yard (unverified), also hear repair crews on this freq.<br /> 160.920 Seattle East<br /> 160.980 South Seattle Ramp (unverified)<br /> 161.010 miscellaneous yard usage<br /> 161.100 BNSF &quot;Seattle East&quot; (Edmonds east to Lyons Wa (Spokane). Also detectors.<br /> 161,100 BNSF &quot;Centralia South&quot; Tenino-Vancouver Jct WA <br /> 161.160 South Seattle Yard. &quot;Seattle Terminal Dispatcher&quot; Tukwila-King Street<br /> 161.250 Delta &amp; Bayside Yard, Bridge 37, Line Everett north to Canada. Also detectors.<br /> 161.250 Harbor Island (unverified)<br /> 161.250 BNSFSwtiching Centralia Yard<br /> 161.250 BNSF Auburn-SP&amp;S Jct (Kennewick) (thanks Don !)<br /> 161.310 Seattle Yard, Balmer Hump, Tacoma Yard (unverified)<br /> 161.370 work crews, &quot;North Service 5&quot;<br /> 161.400 unknown BNSF. Occasional data bursts.<br /> 161.415 BNSF &quot;Centralia North&quot; Tenino-Tukwila<br /> 161.415 CN Joint Vancouver BC (unverified)<br /> 161.460 Puget Sound &amp; Pacific channel 2 (unverified)<br /> 161.475 Puget Sound &amp; Pacific channel 1 Main Ch.<br /> 161.505 Seattle Yard (unverified)<br /> 161.550 appears to be a yard channel.<br /> 457.9125 unknown BNSF<br /> 452.9375 MARY transceiver<br /> 457.9375 FRED transceiver<br /> 452.900 unknown<br /> 452.9125<br /> 452.925/457.925 DPU<br /> 452.950/457.950 DPU <br /> 911.500 &quot;<br /> 918.500 &quot;<br /> <br /> 936.8875, 936.9375, 936.9875 ATCS transmitters - I have yet to hear activity<br /> on these freqs however I've seen 900mhz beam antennas at some local railroad<br /> crossings. <br /> <br /> <br /> Union Pacific<br /> 160.290 (PBX) Haven't heard it in a while. Possibly abandoned.<br /> 160.350 160.410 160.800 Argo Yard and Fife Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.515 &quot;2727&quot; Road Ch. Argo (S Seattle to Reservation, Tacoma)<br /> 160.740 &quot;4242&quot; Road Ch. Eastern Washington (Hinkle Ore to Eastport Id.) <br /> 160.605 (PBX) also some strange tone data bursts<br /> 160.680 Yard channel<br /> 161.235 Thurston County<br /> 160.785 &quot;4545&quot; Road Ch. Cascade Summit Ore to K Falls<br /> <br /> AMTRAK<br /> 160.455 supposedly Amtrak's on-board freq.<br /> 160.620 BNSF/Amtrak (PBX) &quot;MRAS&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> Tacoma Rail<br /> 161.070 <br /> 161.145 (E Olympia-Belmore)<br /> <br /> 160.575 161.190 (unverified)<br /> 161.295 traffic heard-Yard? <br /> 161.445 (Tideflats Yard Tacoma)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Simpson Timber Railroad (Shelton)<br /> 160.440 161.340 <br /> <br /> 160.845 161.085 (unverified)<br /> <br /> <br /> Curtis Milburn Railroad (Thurston Co.)<br /> 160.245 <br /> <br /> <br /> Mt. Rainier Scenic Railroad<br /> 160.635 (unverified)<br /> <br /> Mt. Vernon Terminal Railway<br /> 160.875 (unverified)<br /> <br /> BC Rail<br /> 160.305 BC Rail (Vancouver)<br /> <br /> Puget Sound Historic Railway<br /> 161.355 (unverified)<br /> <br /> Chehalis-Centralia Railroad<br /> no frequencies on file<br /> <br /> Lake Whatcom Railway<br /> <br /> no frequencies on file<br /> <br /> Other<br /> 160.275 unknown. Comes in too weak at my place to copy.<br /> 160.380 units &quot;Quebec Base&quot; and &quot;Papa 3&quot;. No idea who it is.<br /> 160.530 unknown<br /> 160.785 Unknown railroad - rarely used<br /> 160.950 Unknown railroad<br /> 160.980 Unknown railroad. Possibly Canada.<br /> 160.995 repeater input<br /> 161.025 unknown railroad<br /> 161.175 unknown railroad<br /> 161.325 unknown railroad<br /> 161.430 unknown<br /> 161.520 repeater input, also unknown simplex comms.<br /> <br /> ==Puget Sound Energy==<br /> <br /> <br /> S = Simplex R = Repeater PL tone in parentheses ()<br /> <br /> Electric<br /> 153.410 On-scene simplex ?<br /> 153.425 S (103.5) Whidbey Island<br /> 153.440 S (103.5) Puyallup/Buckley area<br /> 153.545 S (103.5) Whatcom Co. &amp; Thurston Co.<br /> 153.605 S (103.5) Kirkland/Redmond<br /> 153.620 S (103.5) Skagit Co. ,(possibly North Bend too, not verified)<br /> 153.635 S (103.5) Pt. Townsend &amp; Vashon Is.<br /> 153.650 S (103.5) Bellevue/Factoria<br /> 153.680 S (103.5) Auburn/South King Co.<br /> 158.130 I haven't copied anything on this freq. Supposedly Kitsap Co.<br /> 158.145 &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; Renton<br /> <br /> 451.050 R (103.5) Radio Shop<br /> 451.1375 Telemetry heard in Bellingham<br /> 451.225<br /> 451.250 R (103.5) Unknown use<br /> 451.700<br /> <br /> <br /> Gas<br /> 900mhz EDACS trunked (EDACS Narrow - 4800 baud)<br /> LCN numbers in parentheses ()<br /> <br /> Capitol Peak (site 1)<br /> ??? <br /> <br /> Gold Mt. (site 2)<br /> 936.3875 (1)<br /> 936.400 (2)<br /> 936.4125 (3)<br /> 936.425 (4)<br /> <br /> Tiger Mt. (site 3)<br /> 936.4375 (1)<br /> 936.450 (2)<br /> 936.4625 (3)<br /> 936.000 (4)<br /> <br /> Gunsite Ridge (Granite Falls) (site 4)<br /> 936.475 (1)<br /> 936.450 (2) <br /> 936.500 (3)<br /> 937.4125 (4)<br /> <br /> Tacoma (28th st) (site 5)<br /> 936.475<br /> <br /> Sumner (White River) (site 6)<br /> 936.900 (1)<br /> (2) is possibly 936.9125<br /> 936.925 (3)<br /> 936.950 (4)<br /> <br /> Columbia (Seattle) (site 7)<br /> 935.450 (1)<br /> 935.4625 (2)<br /> 935.475 (3)<br /> 935.4875 (4)<br /> 935.500 (5)<br /> <br /> Talkgroups<br /> ------------------------------------------------------------------------<br /> Hex Dec AFS:<br /> 0111 273 02-021<br /> 0116 278 02-026<br /> 011A 282 02-032<br /> 011C 284 02-034 appears to be Gas service dispatch<br /> 011D 285 02-035<br /> 011E 286 02-036<br /> 011F 287 02-037 appears to be Gas service dispatch for the Issaquah area<br /> 0121 289 02-041 used in Snohomish county (gas service dispatch)<br /> 0122 290 02-042<br /> 012C 300 02-054 <br /> 0133 307 02-063<br /> 0147 327 02-087<br /> 0163 355 02-123<br /> 0171 369 02-141<br /> <br /> <br /> Notes<br /> Not a lot of traffic on this system. It can be easily scanned without<br /> an EDACS-capable trunking scanner by putting in all the freqs for one<br /> of the sites and then locking out the control channel.<br /> <br /> Thanks to Dennis and Flash for their contributions.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Mutual Aid, State Ops, I-Call, and I-Tac==<br /> <br /> <br /> Mutual-aid channels are available so different<br /> public safety agencies have common channels they<br /> can use to communicate with other agencies.<br /> <br /> 153.830 is the statewide fire mutual aid channel. On the air<br /> you might hear it referred to as &quot;Red Net&quot; or &quot;Firecom&quot;.<br /> Its typically used for comms when multiple fire departments<br /> respond to an incident. Sometimes it will be used within a<br /> department as a spare tactical channel.<br /> <br /> 155.370 is used throughout most of the state as a police<br /> mutual aid channel. Its called &quot;LERN&quot; (Law Enforcement<br /> Radio Network). Basically the same usage rules as &quot;Red Net&quot;.<br /> This is commonly used when there is a police pursuit<br /> involving State Patrol and city/county police departments.<br /> LERN is also patched into the King County regional trunk system.<br /> <br /> 155.475 is the national law enforcement emergency channel (NLEC).<br /> Its rarely used in the Puget Sound area.<br /> <br /> 156.135 is OSCCR - On Scene Command &amp; Coordination Radio. Typically<br /> used by State Patrol at major accident scenes. Occasional<br /> tactical usage by city/county agencies.<br /> <br /> 155.190 is MARS - Mutual Aid Radio. Its a crossband system linking<br /> a VHF repeater, a UHF repeater, and the King County regional<br /> trunk system. Its typically used by agencies with incompatible<br /> radio systems (for example WSP talking to Seattle PD). Its<br /> often used for pursuits and sometimes for the King County<br /> Guardian 1 helicopter.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> State Ops refers to five 800mhz simplex channels. <br /> <br /> I-Call and I-Tac are 800mhz conventional repeaters.<br /> <br /> Some or all of these are programmed into agencies that use 800mhz radios.<br /> Commonly heard users of these freqs are Police, Fire, and State DOT.<br /> <br /> Besides short range on-scene tactical comms, these freqs are also useful<br /> for comms between radios that have incompatible trunking formats (for example<br /> the Johnson MultiNet radios used by State DOT can talk to the Motorola<br /> trunked radios used by King County).<br /> <br /> Since the repeaters are conventional, they could function as a backup during<br /> a catastrophic trunk system failure in addition to site-trunking.<br /> <br /> State Ops, I-Call, and I-Tac use a CTCSS (PL) tone of 156.7<br /> <br /> State Ops<br /> 867.5375 State Ops 1<br /> 867.5625 State Ops 2<br /> 867.5875 State Ops 3<br /> 867.6125 State Ops 4<br /> 867.6375 State Ops 5<br /> <br /> <br /> I-Call and I-Tac<br /> 866.0125 I-Call Squak Mtn.<br /> 866.5125 I-Tac 1 South King County (Cambridge)<br /> 867.0125 I-Tac 2 Bellevue (near Somerset)<br /> 867.5125 I-Tac 3 Seattle (Capitol Hill)<br /> 868.0125 I-Tac 4 Shoreline (Crista Ministries tower)</div> Sat, 16 Aug 2014 01:04:58 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:WA_State http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/WA_State <p>Rich:&#32;/* Weather Radio */</p> <hr /> <div>==Washington State statewide frequencies==<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/radiomap.gif Puget Sound repeater sites]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/service_area_map.pdf Puget Sound Energy service area map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div-pa.gif BNSF Western Washington map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div_nw.pdf BNSF Pacific NW states map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.kellykeeton.com/radio/NWWAmilepost.pdf Western WA Milepost map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/NR/rdonlyres/8CFBC47D-3549-4CB9-9DE6-14CE9739671F/0/RailSystemMap_Aug2007.pdf Washington state DOT rail system map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Marine Radio==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> 156.250 5A VTS Port Angeles<br /> 156.350 7 Foss Tugs<br /> 156.350 7A Port of Seattle VTS ?<br /> 156.450 9 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.500 10 Red Stack Tugs<br /> 156.600 12 USN Bangor Operations<br /> 156.650 13 Bridges<br /> 156.700 14 VTS, Puget Sound south of Whidbey Is.<br /> 156.800 16 Calling/Distress<br /> 156.900 18 Vessel Assist &quot;Primary&quot;<br /> 156.950 19 Argosy Tour Boats<br /> 157.050 21 USCG Air Operations<br /> 157.100 22 USCG Surface Operations<br /> 157.150 23A US Coast Guard Port Ops, some SeaFair usage<br /> 161.900 26 Radiotelephone - Seattle<br /> 161.950 27 Radiotelephone - BC Tel<br /> 162.000 28 Radiotelephone - Bellingham<br /> 156.275 65 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.325 66 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.375 67 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.425 68 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.475 69 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.525 70 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.625 72 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.675 73 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.725 74 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.875 77 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.975 79A Washington State Ferries<br /> 157.075 81 USCG Special Operations (SeaFair, etc.)<br /> 157.175 83 USCG Special Operations<br /> 157.175 83A US Coast Guard Auxiliary<br /> 161.825 84 Vancouver Coast Guard<br /> 161.875 85 Radiotelephone - Tumwater<br /> 161.975 87 Radiotelephone - Whidbey Island<br /> <br /> (VTS means Vessel Traffic System)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Weather Radio==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> 161.650 Canada - Vancouver Coast Guard radio (channel 21B) transmitter on Mt. Park<br /> 162.400 CFA240 Canada - Vancouver/Victoria<br /> 162.400 WXL86 NOAA Spokane<br /> 162.425 WWJ24 NOAA Maynard Pk. (Puget Sound Marine wx)<br /> 162.425 KXI27 NOAA Forks<br /> 162.425 WWH27 NOAA Plymouth<br /> 162.450 WWF56 NOAA Richland<br /> 162.475 WXM62 NOAA Bawfaw Pk. (Olympia area)<br /> 162.475 Canada - Victoria<br /> 162.475 WXM48 NOAA Wenatchee<br /> 162.525 WWF49 NOAA Tunk Mt. (Okanogan area)<br /> 162.550 KHB60 NOAA Cougar Mt. (Puget Sound area)<br /> 162.550 KIH36 NOAA Neah Bay<br /> 162.550 KIG75 NOAA Yakima<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Washington State Patrol==<br /> <br /> S = simplex, R = Repeater output CTCSS tones in parenthesis ()<br /> <br /> District 1: Pierce &amp; Thurston County<br /> HQ: Tacoma<br /> Detachments: Gig Harbor, Olympia<br /> <br /> 1 TAC-W 155.520 S Pierce Co. Dispatch (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 TAC-E 154.740 S North &amp; NE Pierce Co. (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 5 OLYMPIA 154.920 S Thurston Co. Dispatch (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 6 D1 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 7 LERN 155.370 S (100.0) <br /> 8 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 2: King County <br /> HQ: Bellevue<br /> Detachments: Bellevue, Enumclaw, Seattle North, Seattle South<br /> <br /> 1 SEA-N 155.580 R (100.0) King Co. Dispatch (input 158.790 PL 100.0)<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S<br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S<br /> 4 SEA-S 154.680 R (100.0) South King Co. (input 151.115 PL 100.0)<br /> 5 SEA-E 155.580 R (100.0) same as ch.1<br /> 6 D2 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 100.0 PL)<br /> 7 WESTIN 155.970 R State (input 159.075 PL 100.0)<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> District 3: Yakima, Benton, Franklin, Walla Walla, Columbia, Garfield, Asotin County<br /> HQ: Union Gap<br /> Detachments: Kennewick, Grandview, Walla Walla<br /> <br /> 1 YAKIMA 154.920 R (173.8) (input 159.075 PL 173.8) Yakima Co., Garfield Co.<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 KENWICK 155.520 S (mobiles use 173.8 PL) Benton Co., Franklin Co., Walla Walla Co.<br /> 5 WHT PAS 155.970 R (77.0) (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 6 PUF RPT 155.970 R (173.8) (input 158.790 PL 173.8)<br /> 7 D3 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 173.8PL)<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 4: Spokane, Ferry, Stevens, Pend Oreille, Lincoln, Adams, Whitman County<br /> HQ: Spokane<br /> <br /> Detachments: Colfax, Colville, Ritzville<br /> Spokane Port of Entry - RR1 Westbound I-90, Milepost 299<br /> <br /> 1 SPOKANE 154.905 R NAC D40 SPOKANE AREA<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S ANALOG <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S ANALOG <br /> 4 COLVILLE 154.665 S NAC D40 COLVILLE, REPUBLIC, <br /> 5 STEPTOE 154.845 S NAC D40 STEPTOE BUTTE, LIND, CRESTON (West I-90,West SR2, South SR195).<br /> 6 PULL-ST 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 7 CALISPEL 155.970 R 156.7 PEND OREILLE NEWPORT (CALISPEL PEAK).<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S CAR/CAR N/E COUNTIES <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 5: Lewis, Klickitat, Cowlitz, Clark, Skamania, Wahkiakum County<br /> HQ: Vancouver<br /> Detachments: Chehalis, Goldendale, Kelso, Morton<br /> Ridgefield Port of Entry - 29317 Interstate 5, Ridgefield, WA<br /> <br /> 1 VANCOUV 154.680 R (input 155.580 PL 136.5) Clark &amp; Skamania Co.<br /> 2 CAR 3 154.755 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL)<br /> 3 CHEHALS 155.850 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL) Lewis Co.<br /> 4 KELSO 154.770 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL) Cowlitz Co.<br /> 5 GOLDALE 154.665 R (input 155.580 PL 136.5) Klickitat Co.<br /> 6 SUMMIT 155.970 R (77.0) (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 7 TOUTLE 155.970 R (88.5) (input 158.790 PL 136.5)<br /> 8 D5 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 136.5 PL)<br /> 9 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 10 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 6: Chelan, Okanogan, Kittitas, Douglas, Grant County<br /> HQ: Wenatchee<br /> Detachments: Cle Elum (CVD), Ellensburg, Moses Lake, Okanogan<br /> <br /> 1 WENATCH 154.935 R (123.0) (input 158.985 PL 123.0) Chelan Co., Douglas Co.<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 OKANOGN 154.680 R (123.0) (input 159.045 PL 123.0) Okanogan Co.<br /> 5 ELLENS 154.770 R (123.0) (input 155.850 PL 123.0) Kittitas Co.<br /> 6 EPHRATA 155.505 R (123.0) (input 154.695 PL 123.0) Grant Co.<br /> 7 SLATEPK 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 110.9)<br /> 8 STEV E 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 123.0)<br /> 9 D6 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 123.0 PL)<br /> 10 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 11 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> District 7: Snohomish, Skagit, Whatcom, San Juan, Island County<br /> HQ: Marysville<br /> Detachments: Bellingham, Burlington, Monroe, Oak Harbor, Silver Lake<br /> Bow Hill POE - I-5 Southbound milepost 236 (Bow) (Scale 33)<br /> Silverlake - Milepost 188 Southbound I-5, Everett, WA<br /> <br /> 1 EVERETT 155.655 R (141.3) (input 154.845 PL 141.3) Snohomish Co. &amp; Camano Is.<br /> 2 CAR 4 154.935 S<br /> 3 MT VERN 155.505 R (141.3) (input 159.045 PL 141.3) Skagit Co. &amp; Whidbey Is.<br /> 4 BELNGHM 154.755 R (141.3) (input 155.250 PL 141.3) Whatcom Co.<br /> 5 SHUKSAN 154.755 R (141.3) (input 158.790 PL 141.3)<br /> 6 CASCADE 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 173.8)<br /> 7 STEV W 155.970 R (input 154.845 PL 141.3)<br /> 8 D7 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 141.3 PL)<br /> 9 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 10 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> #7 = District HQ in Marysville<br /> 710 = Detachment Office at Silver Lake Rest Area.<br /> 711 = Detachment Office in Monroe<br /> 712 = Detachment Office in Mount Vernon<br /> 713 = Detachment Office in Bellingham<br /> 714 = Detachment Office in Oak Harbor<br /> <br /> Scale 38 is I-5 Northbound milepost 214<br /> <br /> District 8: Clallam, Jefferson, Grays Harbor, Pacific, Mason, Kitsap County<br /> HQ: Bremerton<br /> Detachments: Bremerton, Hoquiam, Port Angeles, Naselle, Shelton<br /> Naselle - 797 SR4, Naselle, WA <br /> <br /> 1 BREMRTN 154.665 R (110.9) (input 159.075 PL 110.9) Kitsap &amp; Mason Co.<br /> 2 CAR 4 154.935 S<br /> 3 PT ANG 154.770 S (110.9) Clallam &amp; Jefferson Co.(&quot;Gardiner&quot;) <br /> 4 HOQUIAM 154.695 S (mobiles use 110.9 PL) Grays Harbor &amp; Pacific Co. (&quot;Capitol&quot;)<br /> 5 CLR WTR 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 110.9)<br /> 6 D8 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 110.9 PL)<br /> 7 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 8 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> 'Hoquiam' = Grays Harbor Co.<br /> 'Naselle' or 'Astoria' = Pacific Co.<br /> <br /> <br /> All areas:<br /> 151.040 S WSP to DOT simplex (mountain passes)<br /> 155.970 R (none) State common (input 159.075)<br /> 155.970 S Simplex activity in various areas<br /> 155.970 S Liquor control board field agents<br /> 159.045 misc. on-scene ops (Eastern WA)<br /> 159.075 S F-28 old Aircraft freq.<br /> 151.115 S F-29 Link to DOT 800mhz radio system (Stevens Pass)(input to 154.680 WSP Seattle S)<br /> 155.445 S F-30<br /> 156.075 S F-32 Commercial Vehicle Enforcement (Scales) &amp; Youth Ecology Corps<br /> 158.985 S F-33 <br /> 159.105 S F-35<br /> 155.250 S F-36<br /> 156.135 S OSCCR<br /> 453.475 MDT or AVLS<br /> 453.925 MDT or AVLS<br /> 460.175 MDT<br /> 460.250 MDT<br /> 460.425 MDT<br /> 460.475 MDT<br /> 155.700 WSP Tac Squad (patrol cars do not have access to this channel)<br /> <br /> <br /> State Fish &amp; Wildlife DNR State Common (159.420) or other DNR frequencies. <br /> <br /> <br /> B(oy)- Capitol Security units bike patrol<br /> D(avid)- Detectives<br /> J(ay)- Employee of outside agency<br /> K(ing)- Canine unit<br /> M(ary)- Motorcycle unit<br /> O(cean)- Off Duty unit<br /> X- Non-Trooper WSP employee<br /> W/Wildlife- WDFW<br /> L/Liquor- WSLCB<br /> P/Parks- Park Rangers<br /> T/Tom- WSDOT Incident Response/Service Patrol<br /> F/Forest- USFS units<br /> C/Corrections- DOC Corrections Officers/Buses<br /> LI/Labor- L&amp;I Investigators<br /> H/Homeland- DHS<br /> G/Gaming- Gambling Commission Agents<br /> R/Reclamation- BLM units<br /> BN/Burlington Northern- BNSF RR Police<br /> UP/Union Pacific- UPRR Police<br /> CA/Child Admin- DSHS/CPS<br /> <br /> 1- WSP Chief<br /> 2- WSP Deputy Chief<br /> 3-5 WSP Assistant Chiefs<br /> 7-39 WSP Captains<br /> 21-28 District Commanders <br /> 40-99 Lieutenants<br /> 100-299 Sergeants<br /> 300 and up Troopers<br /> S-5 Department Pschologist<br /> S-9 Communications Division Administrator <br /> S14-22 Special Deputy<br /> <br /> X14-99 Electronic Services<br /> X101- Communications Division Assistant Administrator<br /> X-108 Communications Training Program Manager<br /> X111-118 Communications Station Managers<br /> X119-149 Communications Supervisors (Comm Off-3)<br /> X150-199 Communications Officer-2 (Trainers)<br /> X200-329 Communications Officers, Comm Off-1, Comm Off Assistants<br /> X330-339 Supply Section/Propery Management<br /> X340-379 Fire Protection<br /> X380-389 Misc<br /> X390-399 Evidence Control<br /> X400-419 Fleet<br /> X420-426 ACCESS/WACIC<br /> X427-458 IT<br /> X459-474 Identification<br /> X475-499 Property Management<br /> X500-599 Crime Lab<br /> X600-679 VIN Inspectors<br /> X680-689 MAIT<br /> X690-694 Aviation Unit<br /> X695-699 Breath Test<br /> X700-899 CVEO<br /> X900-999 CVEO Motor Carrier Safety Assistance Program<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Aircraft frequencies==<br /> <br /> <br /> (Aircraft freqs that can be heard from the Puget Sound area)<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/atc.jpg Washington State air traffic control VHF frequency map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/atc.bmp printable bitmap of the above map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> NDB (ADF) freqs can be found in the frequency database: &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/s.php?sfreq=4&amp;stype=B&amp;ssort=1&amp;cfreq=1&amp;cstate=1&amp;ccity=1&amp;z=1 NDB database]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/XX/arinc600a.jpg Enroute freqs for international flights (shortwave)]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/XX/arinc.jpg Older 1983 shortwave map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 108.0 - 117.975 VOR/DME/ILS navigation<br /> 110.6 PAE Paine Field VOR/DME<br /> 111.5 IAWO unknown - probably Arlington airport<br /> 113.7 YYJ Saltspring Island VOR<br /> 116.8 SEA Sea-Tac VOR/DME<br /> <br /> 118.0 - 121.4 ATC &amp; ATIS<br /> 118.0 Sea-Tac ATIS <br /> 118.1 Portland Appr<br /> 118.2 Whidbey Appr<br /> 118.3 BFI Tower<br /> 118.5 Tacoma Tower (Rwy 17)<br /> 118.55 Seattle Center (Yakima)<br /> 118.9 BFI Clearance Delivery<br /> 119.1 ? Possibly Victoria Tower<br /> 119.2 Sea-Tac Departure<br /> 119.5 Seattle Appr <br /> 119.65 Seattle Center (The Dalles)<br /> 119.7 Victoria Tower<br /> 119.9 Sea-Tac Tower<br /> 120.1 Seattle Appr <br /> 120.2 Paine Tower<br /> 120.3 Seattle Center (Beacon Hill)<br /> 120.4 Seattle Appr <br /> 120.6 BFI Tower<br /> 120.7 Whidbey Appr<br /> 121.1 Seattle Center Appr/Dep<br /> 121.125 Skagit Regional (AWOS)<br /> 121.2 Bremerton ATIS<br /> 121.35 Seattle Center (Oregon area?)<br /> <br /> 121.5 Emergency &amp; ELT<br /> <br /> 121.6 - 121.9 Ground Control<br /> <br /> 121.7 Sea-Tac Ground Control<br /> 121.75 ? Ground Control - unknown airport<br /> 121.8 ? Possibly Paine Field ground control<br /> <br /> 121.95 - 122.675 FSS &amp; misc.<br /> 122.1 Nanaimo FSS<br /> 122.55 Seattle FSS<br /> <br /> 122.7 - 123.2 Unicom &amp; misc.<br /> 122.7 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Arlington, Bremerton, Sequim, Hoquiam, Kenmore (seaplanes)<br /> <br /> 122.775 Traffic Helicopters (primary)<br /> <br /> 122.8 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Anacortes, Friday Harbor, Oak Harbor, Blaine, Chehalis-Centralia, Auburn,<br /> Thun Field (Puyallup), Sky Harbor (Sultan), Sanderson Field (Shelton)<br /> <br /> 123.0 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Kent, Snohomish (Harvey Field), Burlington, Pt. Townsend<br /> <br /> 123.025 Unicom - Helicopters (local Traffic Helicopters secondary)<br /> <br /> 123.2 - 123.675 Misc.<br /> 123.275 Boeing test flights<br /> 123.3 Gliders<br /> 123.5 Gliders<br /> <br /> 123.7 - 128.8 ATC &amp; ATIS<br /> 123.7 Comox Terminal<br /> 123.8 Chinook Appr<br /> 123.9 Seattle Appr<br /> 124.05 Tacoma Narrows ATIS<br /> 124.2 Seattle Center (Scappoose)<br /> <br /> 124.4 Olympia Tower<br /> 124.65 Gray AAF (Ft. Lewis) ATIS<br /> 124.7 Renton Tower<br /> 124.8 McChord Tower (Rwy 34)<br /> 124.9 Bellingham Tower<br /> 125.1 Seattle Center (Neah Bay) - Olympic Peninsula<br /> 125.6 Seattle Center (approaching aircraft 16k-9k)<br /> 125.8 Seattle Center (Horton)<br /> 125.9 Seattle Appr<br /> 125.95 Vancouver Center <br /> 126.1 Seattle Center (Wenatchee)<br /> 126.125 Vancouver Terminal<br /> 126.2 Gray Tower (Rwy 15)<br /> 126.5 Seattle Appr<br /> 126.6 Seattle Center (Larch Mtn) - areas South and East of Tacoma<br /> 126.95 Renton ATIS<br /> 127.1 Advisory Freq - not sure what area it covers<br /> 127.75 Boeing Field ATIS<br /> 127.8 Victoria Terminal VFR (simulcast on 133.85)<br /> 128.0 Sea-Tac Clearance Delivery<br /> 128.15 Seattle Center (Redmond, OR / Scappoose)<br /> 128.25 San Juan Advisory freq<br /> to quote Colin... &quot;All aircraft in the San Juan Island areas are<br /> encouraged to monitor and report on this freq&quot;<br /> 128.3 Seattle Center (Larch Mtn) - Olympia and Elma area<br /> 128.45 Seattle Center (Mullan Pass)<br /> 128.5 Seattle Center (Ft. Lawton) - airspace under 6000 ft<br /> 128.6 Vancouver Appr<br /> 128.65 Paine Field ATIS<br /> 128.75 ?<br /> <br /> 128.825 - 132.05 Corporate en-route &amp; ACARS<br /> <br /> Inbound flights usually report in about 10 to 15 minutes before landing. <br /> An inbound flight usually will make fuel requests (if needed) and give<br /> ETA. The base will respond with a gate assignment.<br /> <br /> Outbound flights usually report in about 5 to 10 minutes after takeoff.<br /> An outbound flight will report takeoff time, fuel status, passenger load,<br /> and cargo weight.<br /> <br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Sun Country Airlines<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Aeroflot<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Omni Air Int'l (handled by Premier Avai 1 ground services)<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Martinair (outbound) (handled by Slatterly ground services)<br /> 128.825 Portland Aero Air (FBO) Learjet maintenance<br /> 128.9 BFI Airpac Airlines<br /> 128.9 Vancouver Cathay Pacific (inbound)<br /> 128.925 Sea-Tac Signature (FBO) fueling &amp; ground transportation<br /> 128.95 Vancouver Kelowna Flightcraft (Purolator)<br /> 128.975 ? unknown airline (outbound) to Penticton/Cranbrook<br /> 129.0 Sea-Tac Air Canada (handled by United)<br /> 129.0 Vancouver Canada 3000 Airlines ('Elite xxx')<br /> 129.025 BFI Galvin Flight Services (FBO)<br /> 129.1 ? Light aircraft operating in the Vancouver area<br /> 129.2 ? Canadian planes - some flights going to Calgary<br /> 129.2 ? &quot;Timber 1&quot; and &quot;Timber 2&quot; - possibly Timberline Air or Kwatna Timber<br /> 129.2 ? inbound to sea-tac<br /> 129.225 Sea-Tac American Airlines<br /> 129.325 Sea-Tac Horizon Airlines<br /> 129.375 Sea-Tac Casino Express<br /> 129.4 Sea-Tac ARINC - San Francisco Radio<br /> 129.425 BFI UPS (also Vancouver, Victoria, Pt. Angeles)<br /> 129.45 Vancouver America West Airlines (handled by United)<br /> 129.45 Vancouver United Airlines and United Express (Skywest)<br /> 129.5 Sea-Tac United Airlines<br /> 129.5 Sea-Tac Shuttle by United ('Air Coach xxx')<br /> 129.5 Portland Delta Airlines<br /> 129.55 Victoria Canadian Airlines (outbound)<br /> 129.575 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 129.6 Sea-Tac American Trans Air ('Amtran xxx')<br /> 129.6 Sea-Tac Omni Air (inbound) calling Slattery Ground Services - no response<br /> 129.7 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 129.725 Sea-Tac Cargolux Air Freight<br /> 129.775 Vancouver Air Canada (outbound ops)<br /> 129.825 Seattle Airlift NW (helicopters), also Lear 359EF doing patient transport<br /> 129.85 ARINC - San Francisco Radio<br /> 129.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines (maintenance)<br /> 129.925 Sea-Tac Continental Airlines<br /> 130.0 Air Canada - possibly inbound for Penticton<br /> 130.025 ACARS data<br /> 130.05 Sea-Tac British Airways<br /> 130.1 Sea-Tac Delta Airlines<br /> 130.1 Sea-Tac Vanguard Airlines<br /> 130.125 ? Light aircraft operating in the San Juans<br /> 130.15 Portland American Airlines<br /> 130.175 Vancouver/Victoria Air Canada<br /> 130.200 Vancouver British Airways<br /> 130.225 Sea-Tac old TWA freq. Unknown if used now.<br /> 130.25 Sea-Tac Kitty Hawk (Air freight)<br /> 130.275 ? ?<br /> 130.3 Kenmore Air Harbor &amp; Lake Union Air<br /> 130.35 Vancouver Air Canada<br /> 130.375 ? (Canada - inbound to Richmond)<br /> 130.45 Sea-Tac Scandinavian Airlines<br /> 130.45 Sea-Tac China Airlines ('Dynasty xxx')<br /> 130.475 Vancouver Air Canada ? (maintenance)<br /> 130.5 Portland Alaska Airlines<br /> 130.525 Bellingham United Express<br /> 130.575 Vancouver West Jet<br /> 130.6 ?<br /> 130.625 San Juans West Isle Air<br /> 130.65 Sea-Tac National Airlines ('Red Rock xxx')<br /> 130.65 ? unknown airline '125' calling operations<br /> 130.675 Vancouver Continental Airlines<br /> 130.7 ? small commercial passenger planes going to Vancouver Harbor &amp; Victoria -<br /> probably Harbour Air Seaplanes, might be Baxter Air...<br /> 130.7 Sea-Tac Scandinavian Airlines (inbound)<br /> 130.725 Sea-Tac Horizon Airlines/Big Sky Airlines (inbound), Northwest Airlines<br /> 130.75 ACARS data<br /> 130.8 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 130.825 Sea-Tac Frontier Airlines<br /> 130.85 Sea-Tac Southwest Airlines<br /> 130.875 Sea-Tac Alaska Airlines (outbound)<br /> 130.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines/Air Canada (outbound)<br /> 130.925 Sea-Tac America West Airlines ('Cactus xxx')<br /> 130.95 ? unknown airline (outbound) '1240'<br /> 131.0 BFI Airborne Express ('ABEX xxx') maintenance<br /> 131.025 ? - light aircraft or helicopter w/fuel requests<br /> 131.05 Sea-Tac United Express (Skywest)<br /> 131.15 Sea-Tac US Air<br /> 131.2 Sea-Tac Alaska Airlines (inbound)<br /> 131.25 Vancouver Helijet Airways<br /> 131.275 ? unknown commercial airliners - Vancouver<br /> 131.35 Portland Horizon Airlines<br /> 131.4 ?<br /> 131.425 Sea-Tac EVA Air<br /> 131.45 ? (Canada)<br /> 131.475 ACARS data (Air Canada)<br /> 131.525 ? unknown airline - San Juans, BFI, Pt. Townsend, Friday Harbor - scenic flights<br /> possibly Vashon Island Air<br /> 131.55 ACARS data (primary)<br /> 131.6 Sea-Tac old Harbor Airlines freq. Unknown if used now.<br /> 131.6 San Juans Harbor Airlines<br /> 131.625 Sea-Tac DHL ('Reliant xxx')<br /> 131.675 ? (Canada - outbound) '103' calling operations<br /> 131.7 Sea-Tac Northwest Airlines (inbound)<br /> 131.7 Sea-Tac Hawaiian Airlines (inbound) - handled by Northwest<br /> 131.725 Sea-Tac Evergreen Air Freight<br /> 131.75 BFI Aeroflight<br /> 131.75 bonanza 82159 calling unknown base station<br /> 131.8 ? ?<br /> 131.825 Paine Field FedEx (secondary when they can't contact on 131.925)<br /> 131.825 ? ? (maintenance)<br /> 131.85 ? ?<br /> 131.875 Vancouver West Jet<br /> 131.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines (maintenance)<br /> 131.925 FedEx (Sea-Tac, Portland, Paine Field)<br /> 131.925 Sea-Tac Empire Airlines (outbound)<br /> 131.95 ? ?<br /> 132.0 Vancouver Alaska Airlines<br /> 132.0 Bellingham Horizon (inbound)<br /> 132.025 BFI Flight Center (FBO)<br /> <br /> 132.075 - 136.475 ATC &amp; ATIS&lt;<br /> 132.075 Seattle Center (Horton)<br /> 132.2 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.3 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.4 ?<br /> 132.6 Seattle Center (Yakima)<br /> 132.7 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.95 Paine Tower<br /> 133.0 Portland Appr<br /> 133.1 ?<br /> 133.5 Vancouver Center<br /> 133.65 Sea-Tac Appr<br /> 133.7 Vancouver Center<br /> 133.85 Victoria Appr (Victoria Terminal main VFR freq) simulcast on 127.8<br /> 133.95 Victoria Terminal (north - Nanaimo)<br /> 134.15 Ault Field (Whidbey Island) ATIS<br /> 134.4 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.55 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.8 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.95 Seattle Center (Whidbey Island) - Mt. Vernon/Bellingham area<br /> 135.05 Vancouver Center<br /> 135.1 Whidbey Island NAS Clearance Delivery<br /> 135.45 Seattle Center (The Dalles)<br /> 135.5 Vancouver Center<br /> 135.525 Seattle Center (Beacon Hill)<br /> 135.625 Arlington AWOS<br /> <br /> 136.5 - 136.975 Corporate en-route &amp; ACARS<br /> 136.525 Sea-Tac Emery Air Freight<br /> 136.850 ACARS data<br /> <br /> A real air chart will provide more detailed information than what is listed<br /> here. This is a simple compilation of comm intercepts.<br /> All of these frequencies can be heard from the Puget Sound area.<br /> <br /> Simulcasting is very common in this area for ATC and control towers.<br /> Here are some typical simulcast groups:<br /> <br /> 118.2 / 120.7<br /> 119.2 / 119.5 / 120.4<br /> 119.7 / 121.7<br /> 120.2 / 132.95<br /> 120.3 / 128.5<br /> 120.3 / 125.1 / 126.6 / 135.525<br /> 121.1 / 127.1<br /> 123.9 / 125.9 / 133.65<br /> 125.6 / 125.9 / <br /> 125.1 / 134.95<br /> 125.1 / 128.5 / 134.95<br /> 128.5 / 134.95<br /> <br /> also crossband simulcasting to the UHF military air band:<br /> <br /> 118.3 / 257.8 (BFI Tower)<br /> 119.2 / 284.7 (Sea-Tac Tower)<br /> 120.2 / 132.95 / 287.9 / 339.8 (Paine Tower)<br /> 120.3 / 273.6<br /> 120.4 / 395.0<br /> 123.9 / 338.2<br /> 125.1 / 319.2<br /> 126.6 / 343.6<br /> 128.65 / 387.0 (Paine ATIS)<br /> 134.95 / 270.3<br /> <br /> <br /> Ramp freqs<br /> 452.100 Horizon Airlines Ground<br /> 460.650 Southwest Airlines Ground<br /> 460.675 America West Airlines Ground<br /> 460.700 R (100.0) Alaska Airlines Ground/Maintenance<br /> 460.725 R (203.5) United Airlines Ground<br /> 460.750 R (114.8) Delta Airlines Ground<br /> 460.775 R (100.0) Alaska Airlines Ground<br /> 460.800 Horizon Airlines Ground<br /> 460.850 R (127.3) ?<br /> 460.875 R (192.8) Northwest/Continental Airlines Ground<br /> <br /> <br /> Check out the &quot;Northwest Aircraft Communications&quot; web page for more information.<br /> (Its on the Intercept &quot;Links&quot; page)<br /> <br /> Thanks to Matt, Tad, Dennis &amp; everyone else who contributed info for this page.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Railroad==<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://www.railroadradio.net railroadradio.net live audio]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div-pa.gif BNSF system map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/bnsflist.htm older BN freq list with channel numbers]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/bnsfd.htm BNSF detector list]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> 160.035 Victoria<br /> 160.215 Tacoma (unverified)<br /> 160.230 Fife Yard or Argo Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.260 Green Mountain repeater. Heard units in Snohomish.<br /> 160.320 supposedly BNSF Delta Yard. Heard miscellaneous simplex comms.<br /> 160.335 unknown usage. Hear data bursts about every 4 minutes.<br /> 160.380 Cascade Tunnel (unverified)<br /> 160.470 Seattle Yard<br /> 160.590 (PBX) Snohomish/Skagit/Whatcom co.<br /> 160.620 (PBX) &quot;MRAS&quot;<br /> 160.650 Balmer Yard, Tacoma Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.665 Operations - Thurston Co.<br /> 160.710 ARES data bursts from trains<br /> 160.725 unknown. Supposedly BNSF<br /> 160.740 Spokane (unverified)<br /> 160.800 Yakima Valley Terminal (unverified)<br /> 160.830 Stacy Yard (unverified), also hear repair crews on this freq.<br /> 160.920 Seattle East<br /> 160.980 South Seattle Ramp (unverified)<br /> 161.010 miscellaneous yard usage<br /> 161.100 BNSF &quot;Seattle East&quot; (Edmonds east to Lyons Wa (Spokane). Also detectors.<br /> 161,100 BNSF &quot;Centralia South&quot; Tenino-Vancouver Jct WA <br /> 161.160 South Seattle Yard. &quot;Seattle Terminal Dispatcher&quot; Tukwila-King Street<br /> 161.250 Delta &amp; Bayside Yard, Bridge 37, Line Everett north to Canada. Also detectors.<br /> 161.250 Harbor Island (unverified)<br /> 161.250 BNSFSwtiching Centralia Yard<br /> 161.250 BNSF Auburn-SP&amp;S Jct (Kennewick) (thanks Don !)<br /> 161.310 Seattle Yard, Balmer Hump, Tacoma Yard (unverified)<br /> 161.370 work crews, &quot;North Service 5&quot;<br /> 161.400 unknown BNSF. Occasional data bursts.<br /> 161.415 BNSF &quot;Centralia North&quot; Tenino-Tukwila<br /> 161.415 CN Joint Vancouver BC (unverified)<br /> 161.460 Puget Sound &amp; Pacific channel 2 (unverified)<br /> 161.475 Puget Sound &amp; Pacific channel 1 Main Ch.<br /> 161.505 Seattle Yard (unverified)<br /> 161.550 appears to be a yard channel.<br /> 457.9125 unknown BNSF<br /> 452.9375 MARY transceiver<br /> 457.9375 FRED transceiver<br /> 452.900 unknown<br /> 452.9125<br /> 452.925/457.925 DPU<br /> 452.950/457.950 DPU <br /> 911.500 &quot;<br /> 918.500 &quot;<br /> <br /> 936.8875, 936.9375, 936.9875 ATCS transmitters - I have yet to hear activity<br /> on these freqs however I've seen 900mhz beam antennas at some local railroad<br /> crossings. <br /> <br /> <br /> Union Pacific<br /> 160.290 (PBX) Haven't heard it in a while. Possibly abandoned.<br /> 160.350 160.410 160.800 Argo Yard and Fife Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.515 &quot;2727&quot; Road Ch. Argo (S Seattle to Reservation, Tacoma)<br /> 160.740 &quot;4242&quot; Road Ch. Eastern Washington (Hinkle Ore to Eastport Id.) <br /> 160.605 (PBX) also some strange tone data bursts<br /> 160.680 Yard channel<br /> 161.235 Thurston County<br /> 160.785 &quot;4545&quot; Road Ch. Cascade Summit Ore to K Falls<br /> <br /> AMTRAK<br /> 160.455 supposedly Amtrak's on-board freq.<br /> 160.620 BNSF/Amtrak (PBX) &quot;MRAS&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> Tacoma Rail<br /> 161.070 <br /> 161.145 (E Olympia-Belmore)<br /> <br /> 160.575 161.190 (unverified)<br /> 161.295 traffic heard-Yard? <br /> 161.445 (Tideflats Yard Tacoma)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Simpson Timber Railroad (Shelton)<br /> 160.440 161.340 <br /> <br /> 160.845 161.085 (unverified)<br /> <br /> <br /> Curtis Milburn Railroad (Thurston Co.)<br /> 160.245 <br /> <br /> <br /> Mt. Rainier Scenic Railroad<br /> 160.635 (unverified)<br /> <br /> Mt. Vernon Terminal Railway<br /> 160.875 (unverified)<br /> <br /> BC Rail<br /> 160.305 BC Rail (Vancouver)<br /> <br /> Puget Sound Historic Railway<br /> 161.355 (unverified)<br /> <br /> Chehalis-Centralia Railroad<br /> no frequencies on file<br /> <br /> Lake Whatcom Railway<br /> <br /> no frequencies on file<br /> <br /> Other<br /> 160.275 unknown. Comes in too weak at my place to copy.<br /> 160.380 units &quot;Quebec Base&quot; and &quot;Papa 3&quot;. No idea who it is.<br /> 160.530 unknown<br /> 160.785 Unknown railroad - rarely used<br /> 160.950 Unknown railroad<br /> 160.980 Unknown railroad. Possibly Canada.<br /> 160.995 repeater input<br /> 161.025 unknown railroad<br /> 161.175 unknown railroad<br /> 161.325 unknown railroad<br /> 161.430 unknown<br /> 161.520 repeater input, also unknown simplex comms.<br /> <br /> ==Puget Sound Energy==<br /> <br /> <br /> S = Simplex R = Repeater PL tone in parentheses ()<br /> <br /> Electric<br /> 153.410 On-scene simplex ?<br /> 153.425 S (103.5) Whidbey Island<br /> 153.440 S (103.5) Puyallup/Buckley area<br /> 153.545 S (103.5) Whatcom Co. &amp; Thurston Co.<br /> 153.605 S (103.5) Kirkland/Redmond<br /> 153.620 S (103.5) Skagit Co. ,(possibly North Bend too, not verified)<br /> 153.635 S (103.5) Pt. Townsend &amp; Vashon Is.<br /> 153.650 S (103.5) Bellevue/Factoria<br /> 153.680 S (103.5) Auburn/South King Co.<br /> 158.130 I haven't copied anything on this freq. Supposedly Kitsap Co.<br /> 158.145 &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; Renton<br /> <br /> 451.050 R (103.5) Radio Shop<br /> 451.1375 Telemetry heard in Bellingham<br /> 451.225<br /> 451.250 R (103.5) Unknown use<br /> 451.700<br /> <br /> <br /> Gas<br /> 900mhz EDACS trunked (EDACS Narrow - 4800 baud)<br /> LCN numbers in parentheses ()<br /> <br /> Capitol Peak (site 1)<br /> ??? <br /> <br /> Gold Mt. (site 2)<br /> 936.3875 (1)<br /> 936.400 (2)<br /> 936.4125 (3)<br /> 936.425 (4)<br /> <br /> Tiger Mt. (site 3)<br /> 936.4375 (1)<br /> 936.450 (2)<br /> 936.4625 (3)<br /> 936.000 (4)<br /> <br /> Gunsite Ridge (Granite Falls) (site 4)<br /> 936.475 (1)<br /> 936.450 (2) <br /> 936.500 (3)<br /> 937.4125 (4)<br /> <br /> Tacoma (28th st) (site 5)<br /> 936.475<br /> <br /> Sumner (White River) (site 6)<br /> 936.900 (1)<br /> (2) is possibly 936.9125<br /> 936.925 (3)<br /> 936.950 (4)<br /> <br /> Columbia (Seattle) (site 7)<br /> 935.450 (1)<br /> 935.4625 (2)<br /> 935.475 (3)<br /> 935.4875 (4)<br /> 935.500 (5)<br /> <br /> Talkgroups<br /> ------------------------------------------------------------------------<br /> Hex Dec AFS:<br /> 0111 273 02-021<br /> 0116 278 02-026<br /> 011A 282 02-032<br /> 011C 284 02-034 appears to be Gas service dispatch<br /> 011D 285 02-035<br /> 011E 286 02-036<br /> 011F 287 02-037 appears to be Gas service dispatch for the Issaquah area<br /> 0121 289 02-041 used in Snohomish county (gas service dispatch)<br /> 0122 290 02-042<br /> 012C 300 02-054 <br /> 0133 307 02-063<br /> 0147 327 02-087<br /> 0163 355 02-123<br /> 0171 369 02-141<br /> <br /> <br /> Notes<br /> Not a lot of traffic on this system. It can be easily scanned without<br /> an EDACS-capable trunking scanner by putting in all the freqs for one<br /> of the sites and then locking out the control channel.<br /> <br /> Thanks to Dennis and Flash for their contributions.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Mutual Aid, State Ops, I-Call, and I-Tac==<br /> <br /> <br /> Mutual-aid channels are available so different<br /> public safety agencies have common channels they<br /> can use to communicate with other agencies.<br /> <br /> 153.830 is the statewide fire mutual aid channel. On the air<br /> you might hear it referred to as &quot;Red Net&quot; or &quot;Firecom&quot;.<br /> Its typically used for comms when multiple fire departments<br /> respond to an incident. Sometimes it will be used within a<br /> department as a spare tactical channel.<br /> <br /> 155.370 is used throughout most of the state as a police<br /> mutual aid channel. Its called &quot;LERN&quot; (Law Enforcement<br /> Radio Network). Basically the same usage rules as &quot;Red Net&quot;.<br /> This is commonly used when there is a police pursuit<br /> involving State Patrol and city/county police departments.<br /> LERN is also patched into the King County regional trunk system.<br /> <br /> 155.475 is the national law enforcement emergency channel (NLEC).<br /> Its rarely used in the Puget Sound area.<br /> <br /> 156.135 is OSCCR - On Scene Command &amp; Coordination Radio. Typically<br /> used by State Patrol at major accident scenes. Occasional<br /> tactical usage by city/county agencies.<br /> <br /> 155.190 is MARS - Mutual Aid Radio. Its a crossband system linking<br /> a VHF repeater, a UHF repeater, and the King County regional<br /> trunk system. Its typically used by agencies with incompatible<br /> radio systems (for example WSP talking to Seattle PD). Its<br /> often used for pursuits and sometimes for the King County<br /> Guardian 1 helicopter.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> State Ops refers to five 800mhz simplex channels. <br /> <br /> I-Call and I-Tac are 800mhz conventional repeaters.<br /> <br /> Some or all of these are programmed into agencies that use 800mhz radios.<br /> Commonly heard users of these freqs are Police, Fire, and State DOT.<br /> <br /> Besides short range on-scene tactical comms, these freqs are also useful<br /> for comms between radios that have incompatible trunking formats (for example<br /> the Johnson MultiNet radios used by State DOT can talk to the Motorola<br /> trunked radios used by King County).<br /> <br /> Since the repeaters are conventional, they could function as a backup during<br /> a catastrophic trunk system failure in addition to site-trunking.<br /> <br /> State Ops, I-Call, and I-Tac use a CTCSS (PL) tone of 156.7<br /> <br /> State Ops<br /> 867.5375 State Ops 1<br /> 867.5625 State Ops 2<br /> 867.5875 State Ops 3<br /> 867.6125 State Ops 4<br /> 867.6375 State Ops 5<br /> <br /> <br /> I-Call and I-Tac<br /> 866.0125 I-Call Squak Mtn.<br /> 866.5125 I-Tac 1 South King County (Cambridge)<br /> 867.0125 I-Tac 2 Bellevue (near Somerset)<br /> 867.5125 I-Tac 3 Seattle (Capitol Hill)<br /> 868.0125 I-Tac 4 Shoreline (Crista Ministries tower)</div> Sat, 16 Aug 2014 01:04:44 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:WA_State http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/WA_State <p>Rich:&#32;/* Marine Radio */</p> <hr /> <div>==Washington State statewide frequencies==<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/radiomap.gif Puget Sound repeater sites]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/service_area_map.pdf Puget Sound Energy service area map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div-pa.gif BNSF Western Washington map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div_nw.pdf BNSF Pacific NW states map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.kellykeeton.com/radio/NWWAmilepost.pdf Western WA Milepost map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/NR/rdonlyres/8CFBC47D-3549-4CB9-9DE6-14CE9739671F/0/RailSystemMap_Aug2007.pdf Washington state DOT rail system map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Marine Radio==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> 156.250 5A VTS Port Angeles<br /> 156.350 7 Foss Tugs<br /> 156.350 7A Port of Seattle VTS ?<br /> 156.450 9 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.500 10 Red Stack Tugs<br /> 156.600 12 USN Bangor Operations<br /> 156.650 13 Bridges<br /> 156.700 14 VTS, Puget Sound south of Whidbey Is.<br /> 156.800 16 Calling/Distress<br /> 156.900 18 Vessel Assist &quot;Primary&quot;<br /> 156.950 19 Argosy Tour Boats<br /> 157.050 21 USCG Air Operations<br /> 157.100 22 USCG Surface Operations<br /> 157.150 23A US Coast Guard Port Ops, some SeaFair usage<br /> 161.900 26 Radiotelephone - Seattle<br /> 161.950 27 Radiotelephone - BC Tel<br /> 162.000 28 Radiotelephone - Bellingham<br /> 156.275 65 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.325 66 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.375 67 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.425 68 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.475 69 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.525 70 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.625 72 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.675 73 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.725 74 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.875 77 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.975 79A Washington State Ferries<br /> 157.075 81 USCG Special Operations (SeaFair, etc.)<br /> 157.175 83 USCG Special Operations<br /> 157.175 83A US Coast Guard Auxiliary<br /> 161.825 84 Vancouver Coast Guard<br /> 161.875 85 Radiotelephone - Tumwater<br /> 161.975 87 Radiotelephone - Whidbey Island<br /> <br /> (VTS means Vessel Traffic System)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Weather Radio==<br /> 161.650 Canada - Vancouver Coast Guard radio (channel 21B) transmitter on Mt. Park<br /> 162.400 CFA240 Canada - Vancouver/Victoria<br /> 162.400 WXL86 NOAA Spokane<br /> 162.425 WWJ24 NOAA Maynard Pk. (Puget Sound Marine wx)<br /> 162.425 KXI27 NOAA Forks<br /> 162.425 WWH27 NOAA Plymouth<br /> 162.450 WWF56 NOAA Richland<br /> 162.475 WXM62 NOAA Bawfaw Pk. (Olympia area)<br /> 162.475 Canada - Victoria<br /> 162.475 WXM48 NOAA Wenatchee<br /> 162.525 WWF49 NOAA Tunk Mt. (Okanogan area)<br /> 162.550 KHB60 NOAA Cougar Mt. (Puget Sound area)<br /> 162.550 KIH36 NOAA Neah Bay<br /> 162.550 KIG75 NOAA Yakima<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Washington State Patrol==<br /> <br /> S = simplex, R = Repeater output CTCSS tones in parenthesis ()<br /> <br /> District 1: Pierce &amp; Thurston County<br /> HQ: Tacoma<br /> Detachments: Gig Harbor, Olympia<br /> <br /> 1 TAC-W 155.520 S Pierce Co. Dispatch (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 TAC-E 154.740 S North &amp; NE Pierce Co. (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 5 OLYMPIA 154.920 S Thurston Co. Dispatch (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 6 D1 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 7 LERN 155.370 S (100.0) <br /> 8 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 2: King County <br /> HQ: Bellevue<br /> Detachments: Bellevue, Enumclaw, Seattle North, Seattle South<br /> <br /> 1 SEA-N 155.580 R (100.0) King Co. Dispatch (input 158.790 PL 100.0)<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S<br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S<br /> 4 SEA-S 154.680 R (100.0) South King Co. (input 151.115 PL 100.0)<br /> 5 SEA-E 155.580 R (100.0) same as ch.1<br /> 6 D2 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 100.0 PL)<br /> 7 WESTIN 155.970 R State (input 159.075 PL 100.0)<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> District 3: Yakima, Benton, Franklin, Walla Walla, Columbia, Garfield, Asotin County<br /> HQ: Union Gap<br /> Detachments: Kennewick, Grandview, Walla Walla<br /> <br /> 1 YAKIMA 154.920 R (173.8) (input 159.075 PL 173.8) Yakima Co., Garfield Co.<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 KENWICK 155.520 S (mobiles use 173.8 PL) Benton Co., Franklin Co., Walla Walla Co.<br /> 5 WHT PAS 155.970 R (77.0) (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 6 PUF RPT 155.970 R (173.8) (input 158.790 PL 173.8)<br /> 7 D3 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 173.8PL)<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 4: Spokane, Ferry, Stevens, Pend Oreille, Lincoln, Adams, Whitman County<br /> HQ: Spokane<br /> <br /> Detachments: Colfax, Colville, Ritzville<br /> Spokane Port of Entry - RR1 Westbound I-90, Milepost 299<br /> <br /> 1 SPOKANE 154.905 R NAC D40 SPOKANE AREA<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S ANALOG <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S ANALOG <br /> 4 COLVILLE 154.665 S NAC D40 COLVILLE, REPUBLIC, <br /> 5 STEPTOE 154.845 S NAC D40 STEPTOE BUTTE, LIND, CRESTON (West I-90,West SR2, South SR195).<br /> 6 PULL-ST 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 7 CALISPEL 155.970 R 156.7 PEND OREILLE NEWPORT (CALISPEL PEAK).<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S CAR/CAR N/E COUNTIES <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 5: Lewis, Klickitat, Cowlitz, Clark, Skamania, Wahkiakum County<br /> HQ: Vancouver<br /> Detachments: Chehalis, Goldendale, Kelso, Morton<br /> Ridgefield Port of Entry - 29317 Interstate 5, Ridgefield, WA<br /> <br /> 1 VANCOUV 154.680 R (input 155.580 PL 136.5) Clark &amp; Skamania Co.<br /> 2 CAR 3 154.755 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL)<br /> 3 CHEHALS 155.850 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL) Lewis Co.<br /> 4 KELSO 154.770 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL) Cowlitz Co.<br /> 5 GOLDALE 154.665 R (input 155.580 PL 136.5) Klickitat Co.<br /> 6 SUMMIT 155.970 R (77.0) (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 7 TOUTLE 155.970 R (88.5) (input 158.790 PL 136.5)<br /> 8 D5 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 136.5 PL)<br /> 9 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 10 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 6: Chelan, Okanogan, Kittitas, Douglas, Grant County<br /> HQ: Wenatchee<br /> Detachments: Cle Elum (CVD), Ellensburg, Moses Lake, Okanogan<br /> <br /> 1 WENATCH 154.935 R (123.0) (input 158.985 PL 123.0) Chelan Co., Douglas Co.<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 OKANOGN 154.680 R (123.0) (input 159.045 PL 123.0) Okanogan Co.<br /> 5 ELLENS 154.770 R (123.0) (input 155.850 PL 123.0) Kittitas Co.<br /> 6 EPHRATA 155.505 R (123.0) (input 154.695 PL 123.0) Grant Co.<br /> 7 SLATEPK 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 110.9)<br /> 8 STEV E 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 123.0)<br /> 9 D6 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 123.0 PL)<br /> 10 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 11 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> District 7: Snohomish, Skagit, Whatcom, San Juan, Island County<br /> HQ: Marysville<br /> Detachments: Bellingham, Burlington, Monroe, Oak Harbor, Silver Lake<br /> Bow Hill POE - I-5 Southbound milepost 236 (Bow) (Scale 33)<br /> Silverlake - Milepost 188 Southbound I-5, Everett, WA<br /> <br /> 1 EVERETT 155.655 R (141.3) (input 154.845 PL 141.3) Snohomish Co. &amp; Camano Is.<br /> 2 CAR 4 154.935 S<br /> 3 MT VERN 155.505 R (141.3) (input 159.045 PL 141.3) Skagit Co. &amp; Whidbey Is.<br /> 4 BELNGHM 154.755 R (141.3) (input 155.250 PL 141.3) Whatcom Co.<br /> 5 SHUKSAN 154.755 R (141.3) (input 158.790 PL 141.3)<br /> 6 CASCADE 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 173.8)<br /> 7 STEV W 155.970 R (input 154.845 PL 141.3)<br /> 8 D7 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 141.3 PL)<br /> 9 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 10 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> #7 = District HQ in Marysville<br /> 710 = Detachment Office at Silver Lake Rest Area.<br /> 711 = Detachment Office in Monroe<br /> 712 = Detachment Office in Mount Vernon<br /> 713 = Detachment Office in Bellingham<br /> 714 = Detachment Office in Oak Harbor<br /> <br /> Scale 38 is I-5 Northbound milepost 214<br /> <br /> District 8: Clallam, Jefferson, Grays Harbor, Pacific, Mason, Kitsap County<br /> HQ: Bremerton<br /> Detachments: Bremerton, Hoquiam, Port Angeles, Naselle, Shelton<br /> Naselle - 797 SR4, Naselle, WA <br /> <br /> 1 BREMRTN 154.665 R (110.9) (input 159.075 PL 110.9) Kitsap &amp; Mason Co.<br /> 2 CAR 4 154.935 S<br /> 3 PT ANG 154.770 S (110.9) Clallam &amp; Jefferson Co.(&quot;Gardiner&quot;) <br /> 4 HOQUIAM 154.695 S (mobiles use 110.9 PL) Grays Harbor &amp; Pacific Co. (&quot;Capitol&quot;)<br /> 5 CLR WTR 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 110.9)<br /> 6 D8 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 110.9 PL)<br /> 7 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 8 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> 'Hoquiam' = Grays Harbor Co.<br /> 'Naselle' or 'Astoria' = Pacific Co.<br /> <br /> <br /> All areas:<br /> 151.040 S WSP to DOT simplex (mountain passes)<br /> 155.970 R (none) State common (input 159.075)<br /> 155.970 S Simplex activity in various areas<br /> 155.970 S Liquor control board field agents<br /> 159.045 misc. on-scene ops (Eastern WA)<br /> 159.075 S F-28 old Aircraft freq.<br /> 151.115 S F-29 Link to DOT 800mhz radio system (Stevens Pass)(input to 154.680 WSP Seattle S)<br /> 155.445 S F-30<br /> 156.075 S F-32 Commercial Vehicle Enforcement (Scales) &amp; Youth Ecology Corps<br /> 158.985 S F-33 <br /> 159.105 S F-35<br /> 155.250 S F-36<br /> 156.135 S OSCCR<br /> 453.475 MDT or AVLS<br /> 453.925 MDT or AVLS<br /> 460.175 MDT<br /> 460.250 MDT<br /> 460.425 MDT<br /> 460.475 MDT<br /> 155.700 WSP Tac Squad (patrol cars do not have access to this channel)<br /> <br /> <br /> State Fish &amp; Wildlife DNR State Common (159.420) or other DNR frequencies. <br /> <br /> <br /> B(oy)- Capitol Security units bike patrol<br /> D(avid)- Detectives<br /> J(ay)- Employee of outside agency<br /> K(ing)- Canine unit<br /> M(ary)- Motorcycle unit<br /> O(cean)- Off Duty unit<br /> X- Non-Trooper WSP employee<br /> W/Wildlife- WDFW<br /> L/Liquor- WSLCB<br /> P/Parks- Park Rangers<br /> T/Tom- WSDOT Incident Response/Service Patrol<br /> F/Forest- USFS units<br /> C/Corrections- DOC Corrections Officers/Buses<br /> LI/Labor- L&amp;I Investigators<br /> H/Homeland- DHS<br /> G/Gaming- Gambling Commission Agents<br /> R/Reclamation- BLM units<br /> BN/Burlington Northern- BNSF RR Police<br /> UP/Union Pacific- UPRR Police<br /> CA/Child Admin- DSHS/CPS<br /> <br /> 1- WSP Chief<br /> 2- WSP Deputy Chief<br /> 3-5 WSP Assistant Chiefs<br /> 7-39 WSP Captains<br /> 21-28 District Commanders <br /> 40-99 Lieutenants<br /> 100-299 Sergeants<br /> 300 and up Troopers<br /> S-5 Department Pschologist<br /> S-9 Communications Division Administrator <br /> S14-22 Special Deputy<br /> <br /> X14-99 Electronic Services<br /> X101- Communications Division Assistant Administrator<br /> X-108 Communications Training Program Manager<br /> X111-118 Communications Station Managers<br /> X119-149 Communications Supervisors (Comm Off-3)<br /> X150-199 Communications Officer-2 (Trainers)<br /> X200-329 Communications Officers, Comm Off-1, Comm Off Assistants<br /> X330-339 Supply Section/Propery Management<br /> X340-379 Fire Protection<br /> X380-389 Misc<br /> X390-399 Evidence Control<br /> X400-419 Fleet<br /> X420-426 ACCESS/WACIC<br /> X427-458 IT<br /> X459-474 Identification<br /> X475-499 Property Management<br /> X500-599 Crime Lab<br /> X600-679 VIN Inspectors<br /> X680-689 MAIT<br /> X690-694 Aviation Unit<br /> X695-699 Breath Test<br /> X700-899 CVEO<br /> X900-999 CVEO Motor Carrier Safety Assistance Program<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Aircraft frequencies==<br /> <br /> <br /> (Aircraft freqs that can be heard from the Puget Sound area)<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/atc.jpg Washington State air traffic control VHF frequency map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/atc.bmp printable bitmap of the above map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> NDB (ADF) freqs can be found in the frequency database: &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/s.php?sfreq=4&amp;stype=B&amp;ssort=1&amp;cfreq=1&amp;cstate=1&amp;ccity=1&amp;z=1 NDB database]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/XX/arinc600a.jpg Enroute freqs for international flights (shortwave)]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/XX/arinc.jpg Older 1983 shortwave map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 108.0 - 117.975 VOR/DME/ILS navigation<br /> 110.6 PAE Paine Field VOR/DME<br /> 111.5 IAWO unknown - probably Arlington airport<br /> 113.7 YYJ Saltspring Island VOR<br /> 116.8 SEA Sea-Tac VOR/DME<br /> <br /> 118.0 - 121.4 ATC &amp; ATIS<br /> 118.0 Sea-Tac ATIS <br /> 118.1 Portland Appr<br /> 118.2 Whidbey Appr<br /> 118.3 BFI Tower<br /> 118.5 Tacoma Tower (Rwy 17)<br /> 118.55 Seattle Center (Yakima)<br /> 118.9 BFI Clearance Delivery<br /> 119.1 ? Possibly Victoria Tower<br /> 119.2 Sea-Tac Departure<br /> 119.5 Seattle Appr <br /> 119.65 Seattle Center (The Dalles)<br /> 119.7 Victoria Tower<br /> 119.9 Sea-Tac Tower<br /> 120.1 Seattle Appr <br /> 120.2 Paine Tower<br /> 120.3 Seattle Center (Beacon Hill)<br /> 120.4 Seattle Appr <br /> 120.6 BFI Tower<br /> 120.7 Whidbey Appr<br /> 121.1 Seattle Center Appr/Dep<br /> 121.125 Skagit Regional (AWOS)<br /> 121.2 Bremerton ATIS<br /> 121.35 Seattle Center (Oregon area?)<br /> <br /> 121.5 Emergency &amp; ELT<br /> <br /> 121.6 - 121.9 Ground Control<br /> <br /> 121.7 Sea-Tac Ground Control<br /> 121.75 ? Ground Control - unknown airport<br /> 121.8 ? Possibly Paine Field ground control<br /> <br /> 121.95 - 122.675 FSS &amp; misc.<br /> 122.1 Nanaimo FSS<br /> 122.55 Seattle FSS<br /> <br /> 122.7 - 123.2 Unicom &amp; misc.<br /> 122.7 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Arlington, Bremerton, Sequim, Hoquiam, Kenmore (seaplanes)<br /> <br /> 122.775 Traffic Helicopters (primary)<br /> <br /> 122.8 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Anacortes, Friday Harbor, Oak Harbor, Blaine, Chehalis-Centralia, Auburn,<br /> Thun Field (Puyallup), Sky Harbor (Sultan), Sanderson Field (Shelton)<br /> <br /> 123.0 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Kent, Snohomish (Harvey Field), Burlington, Pt. Townsend<br /> <br /> 123.025 Unicom - Helicopters (local Traffic Helicopters secondary)<br /> <br /> 123.2 - 123.675 Misc.<br /> 123.275 Boeing test flights<br /> 123.3 Gliders<br /> 123.5 Gliders<br /> <br /> 123.7 - 128.8 ATC &amp; ATIS<br /> 123.7 Comox Terminal<br /> 123.8 Chinook Appr<br /> 123.9 Seattle Appr<br /> 124.05 Tacoma Narrows ATIS<br /> 124.2 Seattle Center (Scappoose)<br /> <br /> 124.4 Olympia Tower<br /> 124.65 Gray AAF (Ft. Lewis) ATIS<br /> 124.7 Renton Tower<br /> 124.8 McChord Tower (Rwy 34)<br /> 124.9 Bellingham Tower<br /> 125.1 Seattle Center (Neah Bay) - Olympic Peninsula<br /> 125.6 Seattle Center (approaching aircraft 16k-9k)<br /> 125.8 Seattle Center (Horton)<br /> 125.9 Seattle Appr<br /> 125.95 Vancouver Center <br /> 126.1 Seattle Center (Wenatchee)<br /> 126.125 Vancouver Terminal<br /> 126.2 Gray Tower (Rwy 15)<br /> 126.5 Seattle Appr<br /> 126.6 Seattle Center (Larch Mtn) - areas South and East of Tacoma<br /> 126.95 Renton ATIS<br /> 127.1 Advisory Freq - not sure what area it covers<br /> 127.75 Boeing Field ATIS<br /> 127.8 Victoria Terminal VFR (simulcast on 133.85)<br /> 128.0 Sea-Tac Clearance Delivery<br /> 128.15 Seattle Center (Redmond, OR / Scappoose)<br /> 128.25 San Juan Advisory freq<br /> to quote Colin... &quot;All aircraft in the San Juan Island areas are<br /> encouraged to monitor and report on this freq&quot;<br /> 128.3 Seattle Center (Larch Mtn) - Olympia and Elma area<br /> 128.45 Seattle Center (Mullan Pass)<br /> 128.5 Seattle Center (Ft. Lawton) - airspace under 6000 ft<br /> 128.6 Vancouver Appr<br /> 128.65 Paine Field ATIS<br /> 128.75 ?<br /> <br /> 128.825 - 132.05 Corporate en-route &amp; ACARS<br /> <br /> Inbound flights usually report in about 10 to 15 minutes before landing. <br /> An inbound flight usually will make fuel requests (if needed) and give<br /> ETA. The base will respond with a gate assignment.<br /> <br /> Outbound flights usually report in about 5 to 10 minutes after takeoff.<br /> An outbound flight will report takeoff time, fuel status, passenger load,<br /> and cargo weight.<br /> <br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Sun Country Airlines<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Aeroflot<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Omni Air Int'l (handled by Premier Avai 1 ground services)<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Martinair (outbound) (handled by Slatterly ground services)<br /> 128.825 Portland Aero Air (FBO) Learjet maintenance<br /> 128.9 BFI Airpac Airlines<br /> 128.9 Vancouver Cathay Pacific (inbound)<br /> 128.925 Sea-Tac Signature (FBO) fueling &amp; ground transportation<br /> 128.95 Vancouver Kelowna Flightcraft (Purolator)<br /> 128.975 ? unknown airline (outbound) to Penticton/Cranbrook<br /> 129.0 Sea-Tac Air Canada (handled by United)<br /> 129.0 Vancouver Canada 3000 Airlines ('Elite xxx')<br /> 129.025 BFI Galvin Flight Services (FBO)<br /> 129.1 ? Light aircraft operating in the Vancouver area<br /> 129.2 ? Canadian planes - some flights going to Calgary<br /> 129.2 ? &quot;Timber 1&quot; and &quot;Timber 2&quot; - possibly Timberline Air or Kwatna Timber<br /> 129.2 ? inbound to sea-tac<br /> 129.225 Sea-Tac American Airlines<br /> 129.325 Sea-Tac Horizon Airlines<br /> 129.375 Sea-Tac Casino Express<br /> 129.4 Sea-Tac ARINC - San Francisco Radio<br /> 129.425 BFI UPS (also Vancouver, Victoria, Pt. Angeles)<br /> 129.45 Vancouver America West Airlines (handled by United)<br /> 129.45 Vancouver United Airlines and United Express (Skywest)<br /> 129.5 Sea-Tac United Airlines<br /> 129.5 Sea-Tac Shuttle by United ('Air Coach xxx')<br /> 129.5 Portland Delta Airlines<br /> 129.55 Victoria Canadian Airlines (outbound)<br /> 129.575 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 129.6 Sea-Tac American Trans Air ('Amtran xxx')<br /> 129.6 Sea-Tac Omni Air (inbound) calling Slattery Ground Services - no response<br /> 129.7 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 129.725 Sea-Tac Cargolux Air Freight<br /> 129.775 Vancouver Air Canada (outbound ops)<br /> 129.825 Seattle Airlift NW (helicopters), also Lear 359EF doing patient transport<br /> 129.85 ARINC - San Francisco Radio<br /> 129.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines (maintenance)<br /> 129.925 Sea-Tac Continental Airlines<br /> 130.0 Air Canada - possibly inbound for Penticton<br /> 130.025 ACARS data<br /> 130.05 Sea-Tac British Airways<br /> 130.1 Sea-Tac Delta Airlines<br /> 130.1 Sea-Tac Vanguard Airlines<br /> 130.125 ? Light aircraft operating in the San Juans<br /> 130.15 Portland American Airlines<br /> 130.175 Vancouver/Victoria Air Canada<br /> 130.200 Vancouver British Airways<br /> 130.225 Sea-Tac old TWA freq. Unknown if used now.<br /> 130.25 Sea-Tac Kitty Hawk (Air freight)<br /> 130.275 ? ?<br /> 130.3 Kenmore Air Harbor &amp; Lake Union Air<br /> 130.35 Vancouver Air Canada<br /> 130.375 ? (Canada - inbound to Richmond)<br /> 130.45 Sea-Tac Scandinavian Airlines<br /> 130.45 Sea-Tac China Airlines ('Dynasty xxx')<br /> 130.475 Vancouver Air Canada ? (maintenance)<br /> 130.5 Portland Alaska Airlines<br /> 130.525 Bellingham United Express<br /> 130.575 Vancouver West Jet<br /> 130.6 ?<br /> 130.625 San Juans West Isle Air<br /> 130.65 Sea-Tac National Airlines ('Red Rock xxx')<br /> 130.65 ? unknown airline '125' calling operations<br /> 130.675 Vancouver Continental Airlines<br /> 130.7 ? small commercial passenger planes going to Vancouver Harbor &amp; Victoria -<br /> probably Harbour Air Seaplanes, might be Baxter Air...<br /> 130.7 Sea-Tac Scandinavian Airlines (inbound)<br /> 130.725 Sea-Tac Horizon Airlines/Big Sky Airlines (inbound), Northwest Airlines<br /> 130.75 ACARS data<br /> 130.8 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 130.825 Sea-Tac Frontier Airlines<br /> 130.85 Sea-Tac Southwest Airlines<br /> 130.875 Sea-Tac Alaska Airlines (outbound)<br /> 130.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines/Air Canada (outbound)<br /> 130.925 Sea-Tac America West Airlines ('Cactus xxx')<br /> 130.95 ? unknown airline (outbound) '1240'<br /> 131.0 BFI Airborne Express ('ABEX xxx') maintenance<br /> 131.025 ? - light aircraft or helicopter w/fuel requests<br /> 131.05 Sea-Tac United Express (Skywest)<br /> 131.15 Sea-Tac US Air<br /> 131.2 Sea-Tac Alaska Airlines (inbound)<br /> 131.25 Vancouver Helijet Airways<br /> 131.275 ? unknown commercial airliners - Vancouver<br /> 131.35 Portland Horizon Airlines<br /> 131.4 ?<br /> 131.425 Sea-Tac EVA Air<br /> 131.45 ? (Canada)<br /> 131.475 ACARS data (Air Canada)<br /> 131.525 ? unknown airline - San Juans, BFI, Pt. Townsend, Friday Harbor - scenic flights<br /> possibly Vashon Island Air<br /> 131.55 ACARS data (primary)<br /> 131.6 Sea-Tac old Harbor Airlines freq. Unknown if used now.<br /> 131.6 San Juans Harbor Airlines<br /> 131.625 Sea-Tac DHL ('Reliant xxx')<br /> 131.675 ? (Canada - outbound) '103' calling operations<br /> 131.7 Sea-Tac Northwest Airlines (inbound)<br /> 131.7 Sea-Tac Hawaiian Airlines (inbound) - handled by Northwest<br /> 131.725 Sea-Tac Evergreen Air Freight<br /> 131.75 BFI Aeroflight<br /> 131.75 bonanza 82159 calling unknown base station<br /> 131.8 ? ?<br /> 131.825 Paine Field FedEx (secondary when they can't contact on 131.925)<br /> 131.825 ? ? (maintenance)<br /> 131.85 ? ?<br /> 131.875 Vancouver West Jet<br /> 131.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines (maintenance)<br /> 131.925 FedEx (Sea-Tac, Portland, Paine Field)<br /> 131.925 Sea-Tac Empire Airlines (outbound)<br /> 131.95 ? ?<br /> 132.0 Vancouver Alaska Airlines<br /> 132.0 Bellingham Horizon (inbound)<br /> 132.025 BFI Flight Center (FBO)<br /> <br /> 132.075 - 136.475 ATC &amp; ATIS&lt;<br /> 132.075 Seattle Center (Horton)<br /> 132.2 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.3 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.4 ?<br /> 132.6 Seattle Center (Yakima)<br /> 132.7 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.95 Paine Tower<br /> 133.0 Portland Appr<br /> 133.1 ?<br /> 133.5 Vancouver Center<br /> 133.65 Sea-Tac Appr<br /> 133.7 Vancouver Center<br /> 133.85 Victoria Appr (Victoria Terminal main VFR freq) simulcast on 127.8<br /> 133.95 Victoria Terminal (north - Nanaimo)<br /> 134.15 Ault Field (Whidbey Island) ATIS<br /> 134.4 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.55 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.8 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.95 Seattle Center (Whidbey Island) - Mt. Vernon/Bellingham area<br /> 135.05 Vancouver Center<br /> 135.1 Whidbey Island NAS Clearance Delivery<br /> 135.45 Seattle Center (The Dalles)<br /> 135.5 Vancouver Center<br /> 135.525 Seattle Center (Beacon Hill)<br /> 135.625 Arlington AWOS<br /> <br /> 136.5 - 136.975 Corporate en-route &amp; ACARS<br /> 136.525 Sea-Tac Emery Air Freight<br /> 136.850 ACARS data<br /> <br /> A real air chart will provide more detailed information than what is listed<br /> here. This is a simple compilation of comm intercepts.<br /> All of these frequencies can be heard from the Puget Sound area.<br /> <br /> Simulcasting is very common in this area for ATC and control towers.<br /> Here are some typical simulcast groups:<br /> <br /> 118.2 / 120.7<br /> 119.2 / 119.5 / 120.4<br /> 119.7 / 121.7<br /> 120.2 / 132.95<br /> 120.3 / 128.5<br /> 120.3 / 125.1 / 126.6 / 135.525<br /> 121.1 / 127.1<br /> 123.9 / 125.9 / 133.65<br /> 125.6 / 125.9 / <br /> 125.1 / 134.95<br /> 125.1 / 128.5 / 134.95<br /> 128.5 / 134.95<br /> <br /> also crossband simulcasting to the UHF military air band:<br /> <br /> 118.3 / 257.8 (BFI Tower)<br /> 119.2 / 284.7 (Sea-Tac Tower)<br /> 120.2 / 132.95 / 287.9 / 339.8 (Paine Tower)<br /> 120.3 / 273.6<br /> 120.4 / 395.0<br /> 123.9 / 338.2<br /> 125.1 / 319.2<br /> 126.6 / 343.6<br /> 128.65 / 387.0 (Paine ATIS)<br /> 134.95 / 270.3<br /> <br /> <br /> Ramp freqs<br /> 452.100 Horizon Airlines Ground<br /> 460.650 Southwest Airlines Ground<br /> 460.675 America West Airlines Ground<br /> 460.700 R (100.0) Alaska Airlines Ground/Maintenance<br /> 460.725 R (203.5) United Airlines Ground<br /> 460.750 R (114.8) Delta Airlines Ground<br /> 460.775 R (100.0) Alaska Airlines Ground<br /> 460.800 Horizon Airlines Ground<br /> 460.850 R (127.3) ?<br /> 460.875 R (192.8) Northwest/Continental Airlines Ground<br /> <br /> <br /> Check out the &quot;Northwest Aircraft Communications&quot; web page for more information.<br /> (Its on the Intercept &quot;Links&quot; page)<br /> <br /> Thanks to Matt, Tad, Dennis &amp; everyone else who contributed info for this page.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Railroad==<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://www.railroadradio.net railroadradio.net live audio]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div-pa.gif BNSF system map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/bnsflist.htm older BN freq list with channel numbers]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/bnsfd.htm BNSF detector list]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> 160.035 Victoria<br /> 160.215 Tacoma (unverified)<br /> 160.230 Fife Yard or Argo Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.260 Green Mountain repeater. Heard units in Snohomish.<br /> 160.320 supposedly BNSF Delta Yard. Heard miscellaneous simplex comms.<br /> 160.335 unknown usage. Hear data bursts about every 4 minutes.<br /> 160.380 Cascade Tunnel (unverified)<br /> 160.470 Seattle Yard<br /> 160.590 (PBX) Snohomish/Skagit/Whatcom co.<br /> 160.620 (PBX) &quot;MRAS&quot;<br /> 160.650 Balmer Yard, Tacoma Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.665 Operations - Thurston Co.<br /> 160.710 ARES data bursts from trains<br /> 160.725 unknown. Supposedly BNSF<br /> 160.740 Spokane (unverified)<br /> 160.800 Yakima Valley Terminal (unverified)<br /> 160.830 Stacy Yard (unverified), also hear repair crews on this freq.<br /> 160.920 Seattle East<br /> 160.980 South Seattle Ramp (unverified)<br /> 161.010 miscellaneous yard usage<br /> 161.100 BNSF &quot;Seattle East&quot; (Edmonds east to Lyons Wa (Spokane). Also detectors.<br /> 161,100 BNSF &quot;Centralia South&quot; Tenino-Vancouver Jct WA <br /> 161.160 South Seattle Yard. &quot;Seattle Terminal Dispatcher&quot; Tukwila-King Street<br /> 161.250 Delta &amp; Bayside Yard, Bridge 37, Line Everett north to Canada. Also detectors.<br /> 161.250 Harbor Island (unverified)<br /> 161.250 BNSFSwtiching Centralia Yard<br /> 161.250 BNSF Auburn-SP&amp;S Jct (Kennewick) (thanks Don !)<br /> 161.310 Seattle Yard, Balmer Hump, Tacoma Yard (unverified)<br /> 161.370 work crews, &quot;North Service 5&quot;<br /> 161.400 unknown BNSF. Occasional data bursts.<br /> 161.415 BNSF &quot;Centralia North&quot; Tenino-Tukwila<br /> 161.415 CN Joint Vancouver BC (unverified)<br /> 161.460 Puget Sound &amp; Pacific channel 2 (unverified)<br /> 161.475 Puget Sound &amp; Pacific channel 1 Main Ch.<br /> 161.505 Seattle Yard (unverified)<br /> 161.550 appears to be a yard channel.<br /> 457.9125 unknown BNSF<br /> 452.9375 MARY transceiver<br /> 457.9375 FRED transceiver<br /> 452.900 unknown<br /> 452.9125<br /> 452.925/457.925 DPU<br /> 452.950/457.950 DPU <br /> 911.500 &quot;<br /> 918.500 &quot;<br /> <br /> 936.8875, 936.9375, 936.9875 ATCS transmitters - I have yet to hear activity<br /> on these freqs however I've seen 900mhz beam antennas at some local railroad<br /> crossings. <br /> <br /> <br /> Union Pacific<br /> 160.290 (PBX) Haven't heard it in a while. Possibly abandoned.<br /> 160.350 160.410 160.800 Argo Yard and Fife Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.515 &quot;2727&quot; Road Ch. Argo (S Seattle to Reservation, Tacoma)<br /> 160.740 &quot;4242&quot; Road Ch. Eastern Washington (Hinkle Ore to Eastport Id.) <br /> 160.605 (PBX) also some strange tone data bursts<br /> 160.680 Yard channel<br /> 161.235 Thurston County<br /> 160.785 &quot;4545&quot; Road Ch. Cascade Summit Ore to K Falls<br /> <br /> AMTRAK<br /> 160.455 supposedly Amtrak's on-board freq.<br /> 160.620 BNSF/Amtrak (PBX) &quot;MRAS&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> Tacoma Rail<br /> 161.070 <br /> 161.145 (E Olympia-Belmore)<br /> <br /> 160.575 161.190 (unverified)<br /> 161.295 traffic heard-Yard? <br /> 161.445 (Tideflats Yard Tacoma)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Simpson Timber Railroad (Shelton)<br /> 160.440 161.340 <br /> <br /> 160.845 161.085 (unverified)<br /> <br /> <br /> Curtis Milburn Railroad (Thurston Co.)<br /> 160.245 <br /> <br /> <br /> Mt. Rainier Scenic Railroad<br /> 160.635 (unverified)<br /> <br /> Mt. Vernon Terminal Railway<br /> 160.875 (unverified)<br /> <br /> BC Rail<br /> 160.305 BC Rail (Vancouver)<br /> <br /> Puget Sound Historic Railway<br /> 161.355 (unverified)<br /> <br /> Chehalis-Centralia Railroad<br /> no frequencies on file<br /> <br /> Lake Whatcom Railway<br /> <br /> no frequencies on file<br /> <br /> Other<br /> 160.275 unknown. Comes in too weak at my place to copy.<br /> 160.380 units &quot;Quebec Base&quot; and &quot;Papa 3&quot;. No idea who it is.<br /> 160.530 unknown<br /> 160.785 Unknown railroad - rarely used<br /> 160.950 Unknown railroad<br /> 160.980 Unknown railroad. Possibly Canada.<br /> 160.995 repeater input<br /> 161.025 unknown railroad<br /> 161.175 unknown railroad<br /> 161.325 unknown railroad<br /> 161.430 unknown<br /> 161.520 repeater input, also unknown simplex comms.<br /> <br /> ==Puget Sound Energy==<br /> <br /> <br /> S = Simplex R = Repeater PL tone in parentheses ()<br /> <br /> Electric<br /> 153.410 On-scene simplex ?<br /> 153.425 S (103.5) Whidbey Island<br /> 153.440 S (103.5) Puyallup/Buckley area<br /> 153.545 S (103.5) Whatcom Co. &amp; Thurston Co.<br /> 153.605 S (103.5) Kirkland/Redmond<br /> 153.620 S (103.5) Skagit Co. ,(possibly North Bend too, not verified)<br /> 153.635 S (103.5) Pt. Townsend &amp; Vashon Is.<br /> 153.650 S (103.5) Bellevue/Factoria<br /> 153.680 S (103.5) Auburn/South King Co.<br /> 158.130 I haven't copied anything on this freq. Supposedly Kitsap Co.<br /> 158.145 &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; Renton<br /> <br /> 451.050 R (103.5) Radio Shop<br /> 451.1375 Telemetry heard in Bellingham<br /> 451.225<br /> 451.250 R (103.5) Unknown use<br /> 451.700<br /> <br /> <br /> Gas<br /> 900mhz EDACS trunked (EDACS Narrow - 4800 baud)<br /> LCN numbers in parentheses ()<br /> <br /> Capitol Peak (site 1)<br /> ??? <br /> <br /> Gold Mt. (site 2)<br /> 936.3875 (1)<br /> 936.400 (2)<br /> 936.4125 (3)<br /> 936.425 (4)<br /> <br /> Tiger Mt. (site 3)<br /> 936.4375 (1)<br /> 936.450 (2)<br /> 936.4625 (3)<br /> 936.000 (4)<br /> <br /> Gunsite Ridge (Granite Falls) (site 4)<br /> 936.475 (1)<br /> 936.450 (2) <br /> 936.500 (3)<br /> 937.4125 (4)<br /> <br /> Tacoma (28th st) (site 5)<br /> 936.475<br /> <br /> Sumner (White River) (site 6)<br /> 936.900 (1)<br /> (2) is possibly 936.9125<br /> 936.925 (3)<br /> 936.950 (4)<br /> <br /> Columbia (Seattle) (site 7)<br /> 935.450 (1)<br /> 935.4625 (2)<br /> 935.475 (3)<br /> 935.4875 (4)<br /> 935.500 (5)<br /> <br /> Talkgroups<br /> ------------------------------------------------------------------------<br /> Hex Dec AFS:<br /> 0111 273 02-021<br /> 0116 278 02-026<br /> 011A 282 02-032<br /> 011C 284 02-034 appears to be Gas service dispatch<br /> 011D 285 02-035<br /> 011E 286 02-036<br /> 011F 287 02-037 appears to be Gas service dispatch for the Issaquah area<br /> 0121 289 02-041 used in Snohomish county (gas service dispatch)<br /> 0122 290 02-042<br /> 012C 300 02-054 <br /> 0133 307 02-063<br /> 0147 327 02-087<br /> 0163 355 02-123<br /> 0171 369 02-141<br /> <br /> <br /> Notes<br /> Not a lot of traffic on this system. It can be easily scanned without<br /> an EDACS-capable trunking scanner by putting in all the freqs for one<br /> of the sites and then locking out the control channel.<br /> <br /> Thanks to Dennis and Flash for their contributions.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Mutual Aid, State Ops, I-Call, and I-Tac==<br /> <br /> <br /> Mutual-aid channels are available so different<br /> public safety agencies have common channels they<br /> can use to communicate with other agencies.<br /> <br /> 153.830 is the statewide fire mutual aid channel. On the air<br /> you might hear it referred to as &quot;Red Net&quot; or &quot;Firecom&quot;.<br /> Its typically used for comms when multiple fire departments<br /> respond to an incident. Sometimes it will be used within a<br /> department as a spare tactical channel.<br /> <br /> 155.370 is used throughout most of the state as a police<br /> mutual aid channel. Its called &quot;LERN&quot; (Law Enforcement<br /> Radio Network). Basically the same usage rules as &quot;Red Net&quot;.<br /> This is commonly used when there is a police pursuit<br /> involving State Patrol and city/county police departments.<br /> LERN is also patched into the King County regional trunk system.<br /> <br /> 155.475 is the national law enforcement emergency channel (NLEC).<br /> Its rarely used in the Puget Sound area.<br /> <br /> 156.135 is OSCCR - On Scene Command &amp; Coordination Radio. Typically<br /> used by State Patrol at major accident scenes. Occasional<br /> tactical usage by city/county agencies.<br /> <br /> 155.190 is MARS - Mutual Aid Radio. Its a crossband system linking<br /> a VHF repeater, a UHF repeater, and the King County regional<br /> trunk system. Its typically used by agencies with incompatible<br /> radio systems (for example WSP talking to Seattle PD). Its<br /> often used for pursuits and sometimes for the King County<br /> Guardian 1 helicopter.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> State Ops refers to five 800mhz simplex channels. <br /> <br /> I-Call and I-Tac are 800mhz conventional repeaters.<br /> <br /> Some or all of these are programmed into agencies that use 800mhz radios.<br /> Commonly heard users of these freqs are Police, Fire, and State DOT.<br /> <br /> Besides short range on-scene tactical comms, these freqs are also useful<br /> for comms between radios that have incompatible trunking formats (for example<br /> the Johnson MultiNet radios used by State DOT can talk to the Motorola<br /> trunked radios used by King County).<br /> <br /> Since the repeaters are conventional, they could function as a backup during<br /> a catastrophic trunk system failure in addition to site-trunking.<br /> <br /> State Ops, I-Call, and I-Tac use a CTCSS (PL) tone of 156.7<br /> <br /> State Ops<br /> 867.5375 State Ops 1<br /> 867.5625 State Ops 2<br /> 867.5875 State Ops 3<br /> 867.6125 State Ops 4<br /> 867.6375 State Ops 5<br /> <br /> <br /> I-Call and I-Tac<br /> 866.0125 I-Call Squak Mtn.<br /> 866.5125 I-Tac 1 South King County (Cambridge)<br /> 867.0125 I-Tac 2 Bellevue (near Somerset)<br /> 867.5125 I-Tac 3 Seattle (Capitol Hill)<br /> 868.0125 I-Tac 4 Shoreline (Crista Ministries tower)</div> Sat, 16 Aug 2014 01:04:26 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:WA_State http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/WA_State <p>Rich:&#32;/* Railroad */</p> <hr /> <div>==Washington State statewide frequencies==<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/radiomap.gif Puget Sound repeater sites]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/service_area_map.pdf Puget Sound Energy service area map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div-pa.gif BNSF Western Washington map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div_nw.pdf BNSF Pacific NW states map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.kellykeeton.com/radio/NWWAmilepost.pdf Western WA Milepost map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/NR/rdonlyres/8CFBC47D-3549-4CB9-9DE6-14CE9739671F/0/RailSystemMap_Aug2007.pdf Washington state DOT rail system map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Marine Radio==<br /> 156.250 5A VTS Port Angeles<br /> 156.350 7 Foss Tugs<br /> 156.350 7A Port of Seattle VTS ?<br /> 156.450 9 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.500 10 Red Stack Tugs<br /> 156.600 12 USN Bangor Operations<br /> 156.650 13 Bridges<br /> 156.700 14 VTS, Puget Sound south of Whidbey Is.<br /> 156.800 16 Calling/Distress<br /> 156.900 18 Vessel Assist &quot;Primary&quot;<br /> 156.950 19 Argosy Tour Boats<br /> 157.050 21 USCG Air Operations<br /> 157.100 22 USCG Surface Operations<br /> 157.150 23A US Coast Guard Port Ops, some SeaFair usage<br /> 161.900 26 Radiotelephone - Seattle<br /> 161.950 27 Radiotelephone - BC Tel<br /> 162.000 28 Radiotelephone - Bellingham<br /> 156.275 65 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.325 66 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.375 67 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.425 68 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.475 69 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.525 70 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.625 72 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.675 73 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.725 74 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.875 77 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.975 79A Washington State Ferries<br /> 157.075 81 USCG Special Operations (SeaFair, etc.)<br /> 157.175 83 USCG Special Operations<br /> 157.175 83A US Coast Guard Auxiliary<br /> 161.825 84 Vancouver Coast Guard<br /> 161.875 85 Radiotelephone - Tumwater<br /> 161.975 87 Radiotelephone - Whidbey Island<br /> <br /> (VTS means Vessel Traffic System)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Weather Radio==<br /> 161.650 Canada - Vancouver Coast Guard radio (channel 21B) transmitter on Mt. Park<br /> 162.400 CFA240 Canada - Vancouver/Victoria<br /> 162.400 WXL86 NOAA Spokane<br /> 162.425 WWJ24 NOAA Maynard Pk. (Puget Sound Marine wx)<br /> 162.425 KXI27 NOAA Forks<br /> 162.425 WWH27 NOAA Plymouth<br /> 162.450 WWF56 NOAA Richland<br /> 162.475 WXM62 NOAA Bawfaw Pk. (Olympia area)<br /> 162.475 Canada - Victoria<br /> 162.475 WXM48 NOAA Wenatchee<br /> 162.525 WWF49 NOAA Tunk Mt. (Okanogan area)<br /> 162.550 KHB60 NOAA Cougar Mt. (Puget Sound area)<br /> 162.550 KIH36 NOAA Neah Bay<br /> 162.550 KIG75 NOAA Yakima<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Washington State Patrol==<br /> <br /> S = simplex, R = Repeater output CTCSS tones in parenthesis ()<br /> <br /> District 1: Pierce &amp; Thurston County<br /> HQ: Tacoma<br /> Detachments: Gig Harbor, Olympia<br /> <br /> 1 TAC-W 155.520 S Pierce Co. Dispatch (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 TAC-E 154.740 S North &amp; NE Pierce Co. (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 5 OLYMPIA 154.920 S Thurston Co. Dispatch (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 6 D1 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 7 LERN 155.370 S (100.0) <br /> 8 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 2: King County <br /> HQ: Bellevue<br /> Detachments: Bellevue, Enumclaw, Seattle North, Seattle South<br /> <br /> 1 SEA-N 155.580 R (100.0) King Co. Dispatch (input 158.790 PL 100.0)<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S<br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S<br /> 4 SEA-S 154.680 R (100.0) South King Co. (input 151.115 PL 100.0)<br /> 5 SEA-E 155.580 R (100.0) same as ch.1<br /> 6 D2 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 100.0 PL)<br /> 7 WESTIN 155.970 R State (input 159.075 PL 100.0)<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> District 3: Yakima, Benton, Franklin, Walla Walla, Columbia, Garfield, Asotin County<br /> HQ: Union Gap<br /> Detachments: Kennewick, Grandview, Walla Walla<br /> <br /> 1 YAKIMA 154.920 R (173.8) (input 159.075 PL 173.8) Yakima Co., Garfield Co.<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 KENWICK 155.520 S (mobiles use 173.8 PL) Benton Co., Franklin Co., Walla Walla Co.<br /> 5 WHT PAS 155.970 R (77.0) (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 6 PUF RPT 155.970 R (173.8) (input 158.790 PL 173.8)<br /> 7 D3 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 173.8PL)<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 4: Spokane, Ferry, Stevens, Pend Oreille, Lincoln, Adams, Whitman County<br /> HQ: Spokane<br /> <br /> Detachments: Colfax, Colville, Ritzville<br /> Spokane Port of Entry - RR1 Westbound I-90, Milepost 299<br /> <br /> 1 SPOKANE 154.905 R NAC D40 SPOKANE AREA<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S ANALOG <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S ANALOG <br /> 4 COLVILLE 154.665 S NAC D40 COLVILLE, REPUBLIC, <br /> 5 STEPTOE 154.845 S NAC D40 STEPTOE BUTTE, LIND, CRESTON (West I-90,West SR2, South SR195).<br /> 6 PULL-ST 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 7 CALISPEL 155.970 R 156.7 PEND OREILLE NEWPORT (CALISPEL PEAK).<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S CAR/CAR N/E COUNTIES <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 5: Lewis, Klickitat, Cowlitz, Clark, Skamania, Wahkiakum County<br /> HQ: Vancouver<br /> Detachments: Chehalis, Goldendale, Kelso, Morton<br /> Ridgefield Port of Entry - 29317 Interstate 5, Ridgefield, WA<br /> <br /> 1 VANCOUV 154.680 R (input 155.580 PL 136.5) Clark &amp; Skamania Co.<br /> 2 CAR 3 154.755 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL)<br /> 3 CHEHALS 155.850 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL) Lewis Co.<br /> 4 KELSO 154.770 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL) Cowlitz Co.<br /> 5 GOLDALE 154.665 R (input 155.580 PL 136.5) Klickitat Co.<br /> 6 SUMMIT 155.970 R (77.0) (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 7 TOUTLE 155.970 R (88.5) (input 158.790 PL 136.5)<br /> 8 D5 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 136.5 PL)<br /> 9 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 10 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 6: Chelan, Okanogan, Kittitas, Douglas, Grant County<br /> HQ: Wenatchee<br /> Detachments: Cle Elum (CVD), Ellensburg, Moses Lake, Okanogan<br /> <br /> 1 WENATCH 154.935 R (123.0) (input 158.985 PL 123.0) Chelan Co., Douglas Co.<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 OKANOGN 154.680 R (123.0) (input 159.045 PL 123.0) Okanogan Co.<br /> 5 ELLENS 154.770 R (123.0) (input 155.850 PL 123.0) Kittitas Co.<br /> 6 EPHRATA 155.505 R (123.0) (input 154.695 PL 123.0) Grant Co.<br /> 7 SLATEPK 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 110.9)<br /> 8 STEV E 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 123.0)<br /> 9 D6 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 123.0 PL)<br /> 10 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 11 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> District 7: Snohomish, Skagit, Whatcom, San Juan, Island County<br /> HQ: Marysville<br /> Detachments: Bellingham, Burlington, Monroe, Oak Harbor, Silver Lake<br /> Bow Hill POE - I-5 Southbound milepost 236 (Bow) (Scale 33)<br /> Silverlake - Milepost 188 Southbound I-5, Everett, WA<br /> <br /> 1 EVERETT 155.655 R (141.3) (input 154.845 PL 141.3) Snohomish Co. &amp; Camano Is.<br /> 2 CAR 4 154.935 S<br /> 3 MT VERN 155.505 R (141.3) (input 159.045 PL 141.3) Skagit Co. &amp; Whidbey Is.<br /> 4 BELNGHM 154.755 R (141.3) (input 155.250 PL 141.3) Whatcom Co.<br /> 5 SHUKSAN 154.755 R (141.3) (input 158.790 PL 141.3)<br /> 6 CASCADE 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 173.8)<br /> 7 STEV W 155.970 R (input 154.845 PL 141.3)<br /> 8 D7 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 141.3 PL)<br /> 9 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 10 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> #7 = District HQ in Marysville<br /> 710 = Detachment Office at Silver Lake Rest Area.<br /> 711 = Detachment Office in Monroe<br /> 712 = Detachment Office in Mount Vernon<br /> 713 = Detachment Office in Bellingham<br /> 714 = Detachment Office in Oak Harbor<br /> <br /> Scale 38 is I-5 Northbound milepost 214<br /> <br /> District 8: Clallam, Jefferson, Grays Harbor, Pacific, Mason, Kitsap County<br /> HQ: Bremerton<br /> Detachments: Bremerton, Hoquiam, Port Angeles, Naselle, Shelton<br /> Naselle - 797 SR4, Naselle, WA <br /> <br /> 1 BREMRTN 154.665 R (110.9) (input 159.075 PL 110.9) Kitsap &amp; Mason Co.<br /> 2 CAR 4 154.935 S<br /> 3 PT ANG 154.770 S (110.9) Clallam &amp; Jefferson Co.(&quot;Gardiner&quot;) <br /> 4 HOQUIAM 154.695 S (mobiles use 110.9 PL) Grays Harbor &amp; Pacific Co. (&quot;Capitol&quot;)<br /> 5 CLR WTR 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 110.9)<br /> 6 D8 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 110.9 PL)<br /> 7 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 8 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> 'Hoquiam' = Grays Harbor Co.<br /> 'Naselle' or 'Astoria' = Pacific Co.<br /> <br /> <br /> All areas:<br /> 151.040 S WSP to DOT simplex (mountain passes)<br /> 155.970 R (none) State common (input 159.075)<br /> 155.970 S Simplex activity in various areas<br /> 155.970 S Liquor control board field agents<br /> 159.045 misc. on-scene ops (Eastern WA)<br /> 159.075 S F-28 old Aircraft freq.<br /> 151.115 S F-29 Link to DOT 800mhz radio system (Stevens Pass)(input to 154.680 WSP Seattle S)<br /> 155.445 S F-30<br /> 156.075 S F-32 Commercial Vehicle Enforcement (Scales) &amp; Youth Ecology Corps<br /> 158.985 S F-33 <br /> 159.105 S F-35<br /> 155.250 S F-36<br /> 156.135 S OSCCR<br /> 453.475 MDT or AVLS<br /> 453.925 MDT or AVLS<br /> 460.175 MDT<br /> 460.250 MDT<br /> 460.425 MDT<br /> 460.475 MDT<br /> 155.700 WSP Tac Squad (patrol cars do not have access to this channel)<br /> <br /> <br /> State Fish &amp; Wildlife DNR State Common (159.420) or other DNR frequencies. <br /> <br /> <br /> B(oy)- Capitol Security units bike patrol<br /> D(avid)- Detectives<br /> J(ay)- Employee of outside agency<br /> K(ing)- Canine unit<br /> M(ary)- Motorcycle unit<br /> O(cean)- Off Duty unit<br /> X- Non-Trooper WSP employee<br /> W/Wildlife- WDFW<br /> L/Liquor- WSLCB<br /> P/Parks- Park Rangers<br /> T/Tom- WSDOT Incident Response/Service Patrol<br /> F/Forest- USFS units<br /> C/Corrections- DOC Corrections Officers/Buses<br /> LI/Labor- L&amp;I Investigators<br /> H/Homeland- DHS<br /> G/Gaming- Gambling Commission Agents<br /> R/Reclamation- BLM units<br /> BN/Burlington Northern- BNSF RR Police<br /> UP/Union Pacific- UPRR Police<br /> CA/Child Admin- DSHS/CPS<br /> <br /> 1- WSP Chief<br /> 2- WSP Deputy Chief<br /> 3-5 WSP Assistant Chiefs<br /> 7-39 WSP Captains<br /> 21-28 District Commanders <br /> 40-99 Lieutenants<br /> 100-299 Sergeants<br /> 300 and up Troopers<br /> S-5 Department Pschologist<br /> S-9 Communications Division Administrator <br /> S14-22 Special Deputy<br /> <br /> X14-99 Electronic Services<br /> X101- Communications Division Assistant Administrator<br /> X-108 Communications Training Program Manager<br /> X111-118 Communications Station Managers<br /> X119-149 Communications Supervisors (Comm Off-3)<br /> X150-199 Communications Officer-2 (Trainers)<br /> X200-329 Communications Officers, Comm Off-1, Comm Off Assistants<br /> X330-339 Supply Section/Propery Management<br /> X340-379 Fire Protection<br /> X380-389 Misc<br /> X390-399 Evidence Control<br /> X400-419 Fleet<br /> X420-426 ACCESS/WACIC<br /> X427-458 IT<br /> X459-474 Identification<br /> X475-499 Property Management<br /> X500-599 Crime Lab<br /> X600-679 VIN Inspectors<br /> X680-689 MAIT<br /> X690-694 Aviation Unit<br /> X695-699 Breath Test<br /> X700-899 CVEO<br /> X900-999 CVEO Motor Carrier Safety Assistance Program<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Aircraft frequencies==<br /> <br /> <br /> (Aircraft freqs that can be heard from the Puget Sound area)<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/atc.jpg Washington State air traffic control VHF frequency map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/atc.bmp printable bitmap of the above map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> NDB (ADF) freqs can be found in the frequency database: &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/s.php?sfreq=4&amp;stype=B&amp;ssort=1&amp;cfreq=1&amp;cstate=1&amp;ccity=1&amp;z=1 NDB database]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/XX/arinc600a.jpg Enroute freqs for international flights (shortwave)]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/XX/arinc.jpg Older 1983 shortwave map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 108.0 - 117.975 VOR/DME/ILS navigation<br /> 110.6 PAE Paine Field VOR/DME<br /> 111.5 IAWO unknown - probably Arlington airport<br /> 113.7 YYJ Saltspring Island VOR<br /> 116.8 SEA Sea-Tac VOR/DME<br /> <br /> 118.0 - 121.4 ATC &amp; ATIS<br /> 118.0 Sea-Tac ATIS <br /> 118.1 Portland Appr<br /> 118.2 Whidbey Appr<br /> 118.3 BFI Tower<br /> 118.5 Tacoma Tower (Rwy 17)<br /> 118.55 Seattle Center (Yakima)<br /> 118.9 BFI Clearance Delivery<br /> 119.1 ? Possibly Victoria Tower<br /> 119.2 Sea-Tac Departure<br /> 119.5 Seattle Appr <br /> 119.65 Seattle Center (The Dalles)<br /> 119.7 Victoria Tower<br /> 119.9 Sea-Tac Tower<br /> 120.1 Seattle Appr <br /> 120.2 Paine Tower<br /> 120.3 Seattle Center (Beacon Hill)<br /> 120.4 Seattle Appr <br /> 120.6 BFI Tower<br /> 120.7 Whidbey Appr<br /> 121.1 Seattle Center Appr/Dep<br /> 121.125 Skagit Regional (AWOS)<br /> 121.2 Bremerton ATIS<br /> 121.35 Seattle Center (Oregon area?)<br /> <br /> 121.5 Emergency &amp; ELT<br /> <br /> 121.6 - 121.9 Ground Control<br /> <br /> 121.7 Sea-Tac Ground Control<br /> 121.75 ? Ground Control - unknown airport<br /> 121.8 ? Possibly Paine Field ground control<br /> <br /> 121.95 - 122.675 FSS &amp; misc.<br /> 122.1 Nanaimo FSS<br /> 122.55 Seattle FSS<br /> <br /> 122.7 - 123.2 Unicom &amp; misc.<br /> 122.7 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Arlington, Bremerton, Sequim, Hoquiam, Kenmore (seaplanes)<br /> <br /> 122.775 Traffic Helicopters (primary)<br /> <br /> 122.8 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Anacortes, Friday Harbor, Oak Harbor, Blaine, Chehalis-Centralia, Auburn,<br /> Thun Field (Puyallup), Sky Harbor (Sultan), Sanderson Field (Shelton)<br /> <br /> 123.0 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Kent, Snohomish (Harvey Field), Burlington, Pt. Townsend<br /> <br /> 123.025 Unicom - Helicopters (local Traffic Helicopters secondary)<br /> <br /> 123.2 - 123.675 Misc.<br /> 123.275 Boeing test flights<br /> 123.3 Gliders<br /> 123.5 Gliders<br /> <br /> 123.7 - 128.8 ATC &amp; ATIS<br /> 123.7 Comox Terminal<br /> 123.8 Chinook Appr<br /> 123.9 Seattle Appr<br /> 124.05 Tacoma Narrows ATIS<br /> 124.2 Seattle Center (Scappoose)<br /> <br /> 124.4 Olympia Tower<br /> 124.65 Gray AAF (Ft. Lewis) ATIS<br /> 124.7 Renton Tower<br /> 124.8 McChord Tower (Rwy 34)<br /> 124.9 Bellingham Tower<br /> 125.1 Seattle Center (Neah Bay) - Olympic Peninsula<br /> 125.6 Seattle Center (approaching aircraft 16k-9k)<br /> 125.8 Seattle Center (Horton)<br /> 125.9 Seattle Appr<br /> 125.95 Vancouver Center <br /> 126.1 Seattle Center (Wenatchee)<br /> 126.125 Vancouver Terminal<br /> 126.2 Gray Tower (Rwy 15)<br /> 126.5 Seattle Appr<br /> 126.6 Seattle Center (Larch Mtn) - areas South and East of Tacoma<br /> 126.95 Renton ATIS<br /> 127.1 Advisory Freq - not sure what area it covers<br /> 127.75 Boeing Field ATIS<br /> 127.8 Victoria Terminal VFR (simulcast on 133.85)<br /> 128.0 Sea-Tac Clearance Delivery<br /> 128.15 Seattle Center (Redmond, OR / Scappoose)<br /> 128.25 San Juan Advisory freq<br /> to quote Colin... &quot;All aircraft in the San Juan Island areas are<br /> encouraged to monitor and report on this freq&quot;<br /> 128.3 Seattle Center (Larch Mtn) - Olympia and Elma area<br /> 128.45 Seattle Center (Mullan Pass)<br /> 128.5 Seattle Center (Ft. Lawton) - airspace under 6000 ft<br /> 128.6 Vancouver Appr<br /> 128.65 Paine Field ATIS<br /> 128.75 ?<br /> <br /> 128.825 - 132.05 Corporate en-route &amp; ACARS<br /> <br /> Inbound flights usually report in about 10 to 15 minutes before landing. <br /> An inbound flight usually will make fuel requests (if needed) and give<br /> ETA. The base will respond with a gate assignment.<br /> <br /> Outbound flights usually report in about 5 to 10 minutes after takeoff.<br /> An outbound flight will report takeoff time, fuel status, passenger load,<br /> and cargo weight.<br /> <br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Sun Country Airlines<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Aeroflot<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Omni Air Int'l (handled by Premier Avai 1 ground services)<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Martinair (outbound) (handled by Slatterly ground services)<br /> 128.825 Portland Aero Air (FBO) Learjet maintenance<br /> 128.9 BFI Airpac Airlines<br /> 128.9 Vancouver Cathay Pacific (inbound)<br /> 128.925 Sea-Tac Signature (FBO) fueling &amp; ground transportation<br /> 128.95 Vancouver Kelowna Flightcraft (Purolator)<br /> 128.975 ? unknown airline (outbound) to Penticton/Cranbrook<br /> 129.0 Sea-Tac Air Canada (handled by United)<br /> 129.0 Vancouver Canada 3000 Airlines ('Elite xxx')<br /> 129.025 BFI Galvin Flight Services (FBO)<br /> 129.1 ? Light aircraft operating in the Vancouver area<br /> 129.2 ? Canadian planes - some flights going to Calgary<br /> 129.2 ? &quot;Timber 1&quot; and &quot;Timber 2&quot; - possibly Timberline Air or Kwatna Timber<br /> 129.2 ? inbound to sea-tac<br /> 129.225 Sea-Tac American Airlines<br /> 129.325 Sea-Tac Horizon Airlines<br /> 129.375 Sea-Tac Casino Express<br /> 129.4 Sea-Tac ARINC - San Francisco Radio<br /> 129.425 BFI UPS (also Vancouver, Victoria, Pt. Angeles)<br /> 129.45 Vancouver America West Airlines (handled by United)<br /> 129.45 Vancouver United Airlines and United Express (Skywest)<br /> 129.5 Sea-Tac United Airlines<br /> 129.5 Sea-Tac Shuttle by United ('Air Coach xxx')<br /> 129.5 Portland Delta Airlines<br /> 129.55 Victoria Canadian Airlines (outbound)<br /> 129.575 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 129.6 Sea-Tac American Trans Air ('Amtran xxx')<br /> 129.6 Sea-Tac Omni Air (inbound) calling Slattery Ground Services - no response<br /> 129.7 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 129.725 Sea-Tac Cargolux Air Freight<br /> 129.775 Vancouver Air Canada (outbound ops)<br /> 129.825 Seattle Airlift NW (helicopters), also Lear 359EF doing patient transport<br /> 129.85 ARINC - San Francisco Radio<br /> 129.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines (maintenance)<br /> 129.925 Sea-Tac Continental Airlines<br /> 130.0 Air Canada - possibly inbound for Penticton<br /> 130.025 ACARS data<br /> 130.05 Sea-Tac British Airways<br /> 130.1 Sea-Tac Delta Airlines<br /> 130.1 Sea-Tac Vanguard Airlines<br /> 130.125 ? Light aircraft operating in the San Juans<br /> 130.15 Portland American Airlines<br /> 130.175 Vancouver/Victoria Air Canada<br /> 130.200 Vancouver British Airways<br /> 130.225 Sea-Tac old TWA freq. Unknown if used now.<br /> 130.25 Sea-Tac Kitty Hawk (Air freight)<br /> 130.275 ? ?<br /> 130.3 Kenmore Air Harbor &amp; Lake Union Air<br /> 130.35 Vancouver Air Canada<br /> 130.375 ? (Canada - inbound to Richmond)<br /> 130.45 Sea-Tac Scandinavian Airlines<br /> 130.45 Sea-Tac China Airlines ('Dynasty xxx')<br /> 130.475 Vancouver Air Canada ? (maintenance)<br /> 130.5 Portland Alaska Airlines<br /> 130.525 Bellingham United Express<br /> 130.575 Vancouver West Jet<br /> 130.6 ?<br /> 130.625 San Juans West Isle Air<br /> 130.65 Sea-Tac National Airlines ('Red Rock xxx')<br /> 130.65 ? unknown airline '125' calling operations<br /> 130.675 Vancouver Continental Airlines<br /> 130.7 ? small commercial passenger planes going to Vancouver Harbor &amp; Victoria -<br /> probably Harbour Air Seaplanes, might be Baxter Air...<br /> 130.7 Sea-Tac Scandinavian Airlines (inbound)<br /> 130.725 Sea-Tac Horizon Airlines/Big Sky Airlines (inbound), Northwest Airlines<br /> 130.75 ACARS data<br /> 130.8 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 130.825 Sea-Tac Frontier Airlines<br /> 130.85 Sea-Tac Southwest Airlines<br /> 130.875 Sea-Tac Alaska Airlines (outbound)<br /> 130.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines/Air Canada (outbound)<br /> 130.925 Sea-Tac America West Airlines ('Cactus xxx')<br /> 130.95 ? unknown airline (outbound) '1240'<br /> 131.0 BFI Airborne Express ('ABEX xxx') maintenance<br /> 131.025 ? - light aircraft or helicopter w/fuel requests<br /> 131.05 Sea-Tac United Express (Skywest)<br /> 131.15 Sea-Tac US Air<br /> 131.2 Sea-Tac Alaska Airlines (inbound)<br /> 131.25 Vancouver Helijet Airways<br /> 131.275 ? unknown commercial airliners - Vancouver<br /> 131.35 Portland Horizon Airlines<br /> 131.4 ?<br /> 131.425 Sea-Tac EVA Air<br /> 131.45 ? (Canada)<br /> 131.475 ACARS data (Air Canada)<br /> 131.525 ? unknown airline - San Juans, BFI, Pt. Townsend, Friday Harbor - scenic flights<br /> possibly Vashon Island Air<br /> 131.55 ACARS data (primary)<br /> 131.6 Sea-Tac old Harbor Airlines freq. Unknown if used now.<br /> 131.6 San Juans Harbor Airlines<br /> 131.625 Sea-Tac DHL ('Reliant xxx')<br /> 131.675 ? (Canada - outbound) '103' calling operations<br /> 131.7 Sea-Tac Northwest Airlines (inbound)<br /> 131.7 Sea-Tac Hawaiian Airlines (inbound) - handled by Northwest<br /> 131.725 Sea-Tac Evergreen Air Freight<br /> 131.75 BFI Aeroflight<br /> 131.75 bonanza 82159 calling unknown base station<br /> 131.8 ? ?<br /> 131.825 Paine Field FedEx (secondary when they can't contact on 131.925)<br /> 131.825 ? ? (maintenance)<br /> 131.85 ? ?<br /> 131.875 Vancouver West Jet<br /> 131.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines (maintenance)<br /> 131.925 FedEx (Sea-Tac, Portland, Paine Field)<br /> 131.925 Sea-Tac Empire Airlines (outbound)<br /> 131.95 ? ?<br /> 132.0 Vancouver Alaska Airlines<br /> 132.0 Bellingham Horizon (inbound)<br /> 132.025 BFI Flight Center (FBO)<br /> <br /> 132.075 - 136.475 ATC &amp; ATIS&lt;<br /> 132.075 Seattle Center (Horton)<br /> 132.2 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.3 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.4 ?<br /> 132.6 Seattle Center (Yakima)<br /> 132.7 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.95 Paine Tower<br /> 133.0 Portland Appr<br /> 133.1 ?<br /> 133.5 Vancouver Center<br /> 133.65 Sea-Tac Appr<br /> 133.7 Vancouver Center<br /> 133.85 Victoria Appr (Victoria Terminal main VFR freq) simulcast on 127.8<br /> 133.95 Victoria Terminal (north - Nanaimo)<br /> 134.15 Ault Field (Whidbey Island) ATIS<br /> 134.4 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.55 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.8 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.95 Seattle Center (Whidbey Island) - Mt. Vernon/Bellingham area<br /> 135.05 Vancouver Center<br /> 135.1 Whidbey Island NAS Clearance Delivery<br /> 135.45 Seattle Center (The Dalles)<br /> 135.5 Vancouver Center<br /> 135.525 Seattle Center (Beacon Hill)<br /> 135.625 Arlington AWOS<br /> <br /> 136.5 - 136.975 Corporate en-route &amp; ACARS<br /> 136.525 Sea-Tac Emery Air Freight<br /> 136.850 ACARS data<br /> <br /> A real air chart will provide more detailed information than what is listed<br /> here. This is a simple compilation of comm intercepts.<br /> All of these frequencies can be heard from the Puget Sound area.<br /> <br /> Simulcasting is very common in this area for ATC and control towers.<br /> Here are some typical simulcast groups:<br /> <br /> 118.2 / 120.7<br /> 119.2 / 119.5 / 120.4<br /> 119.7 / 121.7<br /> 120.2 / 132.95<br /> 120.3 / 128.5<br /> 120.3 / 125.1 / 126.6 / 135.525<br /> 121.1 / 127.1<br /> 123.9 / 125.9 / 133.65<br /> 125.6 / 125.9 / <br /> 125.1 / 134.95<br /> 125.1 / 128.5 / 134.95<br /> 128.5 / 134.95<br /> <br /> also crossband simulcasting to the UHF military air band:<br /> <br /> 118.3 / 257.8 (BFI Tower)<br /> 119.2 / 284.7 (Sea-Tac Tower)<br /> 120.2 / 132.95 / 287.9 / 339.8 (Paine Tower)<br /> 120.3 / 273.6<br /> 120.4 / 395.0<br /> 123.9 / 338.2<br /> 125.1 / 319.2<br /> 126.6 / 343.6<br /> 128.65 / 387.0 (Paine ATIS)<br /> 134.95 / 270.3<br /> <br /> <br /> Ramp freqs<br /> 452.100 Horizon Airlines Ground<br /> 460.650 Southwest Airlines Ground<br /> 460.675 America West Airlines Ground<br /> 460.700 R (100.0) Alaska Airlines Ground/Maintenance<br /> 460.725 R (203.5) United Airlines Ground<br /> 460.750 R (114.8) Delta Airlines Ground<br /> 460.775 R (100.0) Alaska Airlines Ground<br /> 460.800 Horizon Airlines Ground<br /> 460.850 R (127.3) ?<br /> 460.875 R (192.8) Northwest/Continental Airlines Ground<br /> <br /> <br /> Check out the &quot;Northwest Aircraft Communications&quot; web page for more information.<br /> (Its on the Intercept &quot;Links&quot; page)<br /> <br /> Thanks to Matt, Tad, Dennis &amp; everyone else who contributed info for this page.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Railroad==<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://www.railroadradio.net railroadradio.net live audio]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div-pa.gif BNSF system map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/bnsflist.htm older BN freq list with channel numbers]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/bnsfd.htm BNSF detector list]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> 160.035 Victoria<br /> 160.215 Tacoma (unverified)<br /> 160.230 Fife Yard or Argo Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.260 Green Mountain repeater. Heard units in Snohomish.<br /> 160.320 supposedly BNSF Delta Yard. Heard miscellaneous simplex comms.<br /> 160.335 unknown usage. Hear data bursts about every 4 minutes.<br /> 160.380 Cascade Tunnel (unverified)<br /> 160.470 Seattle Yard<br /> 160.590 (PBX) Snohomish/Skagit/Whatcom co.<br /> 160.620 (PBX) &quot;MRAS&quot;<br /> 160.650 Balmer Yard, Tacoma Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.665 Operations - Thurston Co.<br /> 160.710 ARES data bursts from trains<br /> 160.725 unknown. Supposedly BNSF<br /> 160.740 Spokane (unverified)<br /> 160.800 Yakima Valley Terminal (unverified)<br /> 160.830 Stacy Yard (unverified), also hear repair crews on this freq.<br /> 160.920 Seattle East<br /> 160.980 South Seattle Ramp (unverified)<br /> 161.010 miscellaneous yard usage<br /> 161.100 BNSF &quot;Seattle East&quot; (Edmonds east to Lyons Wa (Spokane). Also detectors.<br /> 161,100 BNSF &quot;Centralia South&quot; Tenino-Vancouver Jct WA <br /> 161.160 South Seattle Yard. &quot;Seattle Terminal Dispatcher&quot; Tukwila-King Street<br /> 161.250 Delta &amp; Bayside Yard, Bridge 37, Line Everett north to Canada. Also detectors.<br /> 161.250 Harbor Island (unverified)<br /> 161.250 BNSFSwtiching Centralia Yard<br /> 161.250 BNSF Auburn-SP&amp;S Jct (Kennewick) (thanks Don !)<br /> 161.310 Seattle Yard, Balmer Hump, Tacoma Yard (unverified)<br /> 161.370 work crews, &quot;North Service 5&quot;<br /> 161.400 unknown BNSF. Occasional data bursts.<br /> 161.415 BNSF &quot;Centralia North&quot; Tenino-Tukwila<br /> 161.415 CN Joint Vancouver BC (unverified)<br /> 161.460 Puget Sound &amp; Pacific channel 2 (unverified)<br /> 161.475 Puget Sound &amp; Pacific channel 1 Main Ch.<br /> 161.505 Seattle Yard (unverified)<br /> 161.550 appears to be a yard channel.<br /> 457.9125 unknown BNSF<br /> 452.9375 MARY transceiver<br /> 457.9375 FRED transceiver<br /> 452.900 unknown<br /> 452.9125<br /> 452.925/457.925 DPU<br /> 452.950/457.950 DPU <br /> 911.500 &quot;<br /> 918.500 &quot;<br /> <br /> 936.8875, 936.9375, 936.9875 ATCS transmitters - I have yet to hear activity<br /> on these freqs however I've seen 900mhz beam antennas at some local railroad<br /> crossings. <br /> <br /> <br /> Union Pacific<br /> 160.290 (PBX) Haven't heard it in a while. Possibly abandoned.<br /> 160.350 160.410 160.800 Argo Yard and Fife Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.515 &quot;2727&quot; Road Ch. Argo (S Seattle to Reservation, Tacoma)<br /> 160.740 &quot;4242&quot; Road Ch. Eastern Washington (Hinkle Ore to Eastport Id.) <br /> 160.605 (PBX) also some strange tone data bursts<br /> 160.680 Yard channel<br /> 161.235 Thurston County<br /> 160.785 &quot;4545&quot; Road Ch. Cascade Summit Ore to K Falls<br /> <br /> AMTRAK<br /> 160.455 supposedly Amtrak's on-board freq.<br /> 160.620 BNSF/Amtrak (PBX) &quot;MRAS&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> Tacoma Rail<br /> 161.070 <br /> 161.145 (E Olympia-Belmore)<br /> <br /> 160.575 161.190 (unverified)<br /> 161.295 traffic heard-Yard? <br /> 161.445 (Tideflats Yard Tacoma)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Simpson Timber Railroad (Shelton)<br /> 160.440 161.340 <br /> <br /> 160.845 161.085 (unverified)<br /> <br /> <br /> Curtis Milburn Railroad (Thurston Co.)<br /> 160.245 <br /> <br /> <br /> Mt. Rainier Scenic Railroad<br /> 160.635 (unverified)<br /> <br /> Mt. Vernon Terminal Railway<br /> 160.875 (unverified)<br /> <br /> BC Rail<br /> 160.305 BC Rail (Vancouver)<br /> <br /> Puget Sound Historic Railway<br /> 161.355 (unverified)<br /> <br /> Chehalis-Centralia Railroad<br /> no frequencies on file<br /> <br /> Lake Whatcom Railway<br /> <br /> no frequencies on file<br /> <br /> Other<br /> 160.275 unknown. Comes in too weak at my place to copy.<br /> 160.380 units &quot;Quebec Base&quot; and &quot;Papa 3&quot;. No idea who it is.<br /> 160.530 unknown<br /> 160.785 Unknown railroad - rarely used<br /> 160.950 Unknown railroad<br /> 160.980 Unknown railroad. Possibly Canada.<br /> 160.995 repeater input<br /> 161.025 unknown railroad<br /> 161.175 unknown railroad<br /> 161.325 unknown railroad<br /> 161.430 unknown<br /> 161.520 repeater input, also unknown simplex comms.<br /> <br /> ==Puget Sound Energy==<br /> <br /> <br /> S = Simplex R = Repeater PL tone in parentheses ()<br /> <br /> Electric<br /> 153.410 On-scene simplex ?<br /> 153.425 S (103.5) Whidbey Island<br /> 153.440 S (103.5) Puyallup/Buckley area<br /> 153.545 S (103.5) Whatcom Co. &amp; Thurston Co.<br /> 153.605 S (103.5) Kirkland/Redmond<br /> 153.620 S (103.5) Skagit Co. ,(possibly North Bend too, not verified)<br /> 153.635 S (103.5) Pt. Townsend &amp; Vashon Is.<br /> 153.650 S (103.5) Bellevue/Factoria<br /> 153.680 S (103.5) Auburn/South King Co.<br /> 158.130 I haven't copied anything on this freq. Supposedly Kitsap Co.<br /> 158.145 &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; Renton<br /> <br /> 451.050 R (103.5) Radio Shop<br /> 451.1375 Telemetry heard in Bellingham<br /> 451.225<br /> 451.250 R (103.5) Unknown use<br /> 451.700<br /> <br /> <br /> Gas<br /> 900mhz EDACS trunked (EDACS Narrow - 4800 baud)<br /> LCN numbers in parentheses ()<br /> <br /> Capitol Peak (site 1)<br /> ??? <br /> <br /> Gold Mt. (site 2)<br /> 936.3875 (1)<br /> 936.400 (2)<br /> 936.4125 (3)<br /> 936.425 (4)<br /> <br /> Tiger Mt. (site 3)<br /> 936.4375 (1)<br /> 936.450 (2)<br /> 936.4625 (3)<br /> 936.000 (4)<br /> <br /> Gunsite Ridge (Granite Falls) (site 4)<br /> 936.475 (1)<br /> 936.450 (2) <br /> 936.500 (3)<br /> 937.4125 (4)<br /> <br /> Tacoma (28th st) (site 5)<br /> 936.475<br /> <br /> Sumner (White River) (site 6)<br /> 936.900 (1)<br /> (2) is possibly 936.9125<br /> 936.925 (3)<br /> 936.950 (4)<br /> <br /> Columbia (Seattle) (site 7)<br /> 935.450 (1)<br /> 935.4625 (2)<br /> 935.475 (3)<br /> 935.4875 (4)<br /> 935.500 (5)<br /> <br /> Talkgroups<br /> ------------------------------------------------------------------------<br /> Hex Dec AFS:<br /> 0111 273 02-021<br /> 0116 278 02-026<br /> 011A 282 02-032<br /> 011C 284 02-034 appears to be Gas service dispatch<br /> 011D 285 02-035<br /> 011E 286 02-036<br /> 011F 287 02-037 appears to be Gas service dispatch for the Issaquah area<br /> 0121 289 02-041 used in Snohomish county (gas service dispatch)<br /> 0122 290 02-042<br /> 012C 300 02-054 <br /> 0133 307 02-063<br /> 0147 327 02-087<br /> 0163 355 02-123<br /> 0171 369 02-141<br /> <br /> <br /> Notes<br /> Not a lot of traffic on this system. It can be easily scanned without<br /> an EDACS-capable trunking scanner by putting in all the freqs for one<br /> of the sites and then locking out the control channel.<br /> <br /> Thanks to Dennis and Flash for their contributions.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Mutual Aid, State Ops, I-Call, and I-Tac==<br /> <br /> <br /> Mutual-aid channels are available so different<br /> public safety agencies have common channels they<br /> can use to communicate with other agencies.<br /> <br /> 153.830 is the statewide fire mutual aid channel. On the air<br /> you might hear it referred to as &quot;Red Net&quot; or &quot;Firecom&quot;.<br /> Its typically used for comms when multiple fire departments<br /> respond to an incident. Sometimes it will be used within a<br /> department as a spare tactical channel.<br /> <br /> 155.370 is used throughout most of the state as a police<br /> mutual aid channel. Its called &quot;LERN&quot; (Law Enforcement<br /> Radio Network). Basically the same usage rules as &quot;Red Net&quot;.<br /> This is commonly used when there is a police pursuit<br /> involving State Patrol and city/county police departments.<br /> LERN is also patched into the King County regional trunk system.<br /> <br /> 155.475 is the national law enforcement emergency channel (NLEC).<br /> Its rarely used in the Puget Sound area.<br /> <br /> 156.135 is OSCCR - On Scene Command &amp; Coordination Radio. Typically<br /> used by State Patrol at major accident scenes. Occasional<br /> tactical usage by city/county agencies.<br /> <br /> 155.190 is MARS - Mutual Aid Radio. Its a crossband system linking<br /> a VHF repeater, a UHF repeater, and the King County regional<br /> trunk system. Its typically used by agencies with incompatible<br /> radio systems (for example WSP talking to Seattle PD). Its<br /> often used for pursuits and sometimes for the King County<br /> Guardian 1 helicopter.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> State Ops refers to five 800mhz simplex channels. <br /> <br /> I-Call and I-Tac are 800mhz conventional repeaters.<br /> <br /> Some or all of these are programmed into agencies that use 800mhz radios.<br /> Commonly heard users of these freqs are Police, Fire, and State DOT.<br /> <br /> Besides short range on-scene tactical comms, these freqs are also useful<br /> for comms between radios that have incompatible trunking formats (for example<br /> the Johnson MultiNet radios used by State DOT can talk to the Motorola<br /> trunked radios used by King County).<br /> <br /> Since the repeaters are conventional, they could function as a backup during<br /> a catastrophic trunk system failure in addition to site-trunking.<br /> <br /> State Ops, I-Call, and I-Tac use a CTCSS (PL) tone of 156.7<br /> <br /> State Ops<br /> 867.5375 State Ops 1<br /> 867.5625 State Ops 2<br /> 867.5875 State Ops 3<br /> 867.6125 State Ops 4<br /> 867.6375 State Ops 5<br /> <br /> <br /> I-Call and I-Tac<br /> 866.0125 I-Call Squak Mtn.<br /> 866.5125 I-Tac 1 South King County (Cambridge)<br /> 867.0125 I-Tac 2 Bellevue (near Somerset)<br /> 867.5125 I-Tac 3 Seattle (Capitol Hill)<br /> 868.0125 I-Tac 4 Shoreline (Crista Ministries tower)</div> Sat, 16 Aug 2014 01:03:40 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:WA_State http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/WA_State <p>Rich:&#32;</p> <hr /> <div>==Washington State statewide frequencies==<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/radiomap.gif Puget Sound repeater sites]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/service_area_map.pdf Puget Sound Energy service area map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div-pa.gif BNSF Western Washington map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div_nw.pdf BNSF Pacific NW states map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.kellykeeton.com/radio/NWWAmilepost.pdf Western WA Milepost map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/NR/rdonlyres/8CFBC47D-3549-4CB9-9DE6-14CE9739671F/0/RailSystemMap_Aug2007.pdf Washington state DOT rail system map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Marine Radio==<br /> 156.250 5A VTS Port Angeles<br /> 156.350 7 Foss Tugs<br /> 156.350 7A Port of Seattle VTS ?<br /> 156.450 9 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.500 10 Red Stack Tugs<br /> 156.600 12 USN Bangor Operations<br /> 156.650 13 Bridges<br /> 156.700 14 VTS, Puget Sound south of Whidbey Is.<br /> 156.800 16 Calling/Distress<br /> 156.900 18 Vessel Assist &quot;Primary&quot;<br /> 156.950 19 Argosy Tour Boats<br /> 157.050 21 USCG Air Operations<br /> 157.100 22 USCG Surface Operations<br /> 157.150 23A US Coast Guard Port Ops, some SeaFair usage<br /> 161.900 26 Radiotelephone - Seattle<br /> 161.950 27 Radiotelephone - BC Tel<br /> 162.000 28 Radiotelephone - Bellingham<br /> 156.275 65 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.325 66 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.375 67 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.425 68 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.475 69 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.525 70 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.625 72 Pleasure Boats<br /> 156.675 73 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.725 74 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.875 77 Various Harbor Tug Operations<br /> 156.975 79A Washington State Ferries<br /> 157.075 81 USCG Special Operations (SeaFair, etc.)<br /> 157.175 83 USCG Special Operations<br /> 157.175 83A US Coast Guard Auxiliary<br /> 161.825 84 Vancouver Coast Guard<br /> 161.875 85 Radiotelephone - Tumwater<br /> 161.975 87 Radiotelephone - Whidbey Island<br /> <br /> (VTS means Vessel Traffic System)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Weather Radio==<br /> 161.650 Canada - Vancouver Coast Guard radio (channel 21B) transmitter on Mt. Park<br /> 162.400 CFA240 Canada - Vancouver/Victoria<br /> 162.400 WXL86 NOAA Spokane<br /> 162.425 WWJ24 NOAA Maynard Pk. (Puget Sound Marine wx)<br /> 162.425 KXI27 NOAA Forks<br /> 162.425 WWH27 NOAA Plymouth<br /> 162.450 WWF56 NOAA Richland<br /> 162.475 WXM62 NOAA Bawfaw Pk. (Olympia area)<br /> 162.475 Canada - Victoria<br /> 162.475 WXM48 NOAA Wenatchee<br /> 162.525 WWF49 NOAA Tunk Mt. (Okanogan area)<br /> 162.550 KHB60 NOAA Cougar Mt. (Puget Sound area)<br /> 162.550 KIH36 NOAA Neah Bay<br /> 162.550 KIG75 NOAA Yakima<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Washington State Patrol==<br /> <br /> S = simplex, R = Repeater output CTCSS tones in parenthesis ()<br /> <br /> District 1: Pierce &amp; Thurston County<br /> HQ: Tacoma<br /> Detachments: Gig Harbor, Olympia<br /> <br /> 1 TAC-W 155.520 S Pierce Co. Dispatch (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 TAC-E 154.740 S North &amp; NE Pierce Co. (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 5 OLYMPIA 154.920 S Thurston Co. Dispatch (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 6 D1 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 151.4 PL)<br /> 7 LERN 155.370 S (100.0) <br /> 8 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 2: King County <br /> HQ: Bellevue<br /> Detachments: Bellevue, Enumclaw, Seattle North, Seattle South<br /> <br /> 1 SEA-N 155.580 R (100.0) King Co. Dispatch (input 158.790 PL 100.0)<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S<br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S<br /> 4 SEA-S 154.680 R (100.0) South King Co. (input 151.115 PL 100.0)<br /> 5 SEA-E 155.580 R (100.0) same as ch.1<br /> 6 D2 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 100.0 PL)<br /> 7 WESTIN 155.970 R State (input 159.075 PL 100.0)<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> District 3: Yakima, Benton, Franklin, Walla Walla, Columbia, Garfield, Asotin County<br /> HQ: Union Gap<br /> Detachments: Kennewick, Grandview, Walla Walla<br /> <br /> 1 YAKIMA 154.920 R (173.8) (input 159.075 PL 173.8) Yakima Co., Garfield Co.<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 KENWICK 155.520 S (mobiles use 173.8 PL) Benton Co., Franklin Co., Walla Walla Co.<br /> 5 WHT PAS 155.970 R (77.0) (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 6 PUF RPT 155.970 R (173.8) (input 158.790 PL 173.8)<br /> 7 D3 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 173.8PL)<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 4: Spokane, Ferry, Stevens, Pend Oreille, Lincoln, Adams, Whitman County<br /> HQ: Spokane<br /> <br /> Detachments: Colfax, Colville, Ritzville<br /> Spokane Port of Entry - RR1 Westbound I-90, Milepost 299<br /> <br /> 1 SPOKANE 154.905 R NAC D40 SPOKANE AREA<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S ANALOG <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S ANALOG <br /> 4 COLVILLE 154.665 S NAC D40 COLVILLE, REPUBLIC, <br /> 5 STEPTOE 154.845 S NAC D40 STEPTOE BUTTE, LIND, CRESTON (West I-90,West SR2, South SR195).<br /> 6 PULL-ST 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 7 CALISPEL 155.970 R 156.7 PEND OREILLE NEWPORT (CALISPEL PEAK).<br /> 8 LERN 155.370 S <br /> 9 NLEC 155.475 S CAR/CAR N/E COUNTIES <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 5: Lewis, Klickitat, Cowlitz, Clark, Skamania, Wahkiakum County<br /> HQ: Vancouver<br /> Detachments: Chehalis, Goldendale, Kelso, Morton<br /> Ridgefield Port of Entry - 29317 Interstate 5, Ridgefield, WA<br /> <br /> 1 VANCOUV 154.680 R (input 155.580 PL 136.5) Clark &amp; Skamania Co.<br /> 2 CAR 3 154.755 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL)<br /> 3 CHEHALS 155.850 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL) Lewis Co.<br /> 4 KELSO 154.770 S (mobiles use 136.5 PL) Cowlitz Co.<br /> 5 GOLDALE 154.665 R (input 155.580 PL 136.5) Klickitat Co.<br /> 6 SUMMIT 155.970 R (77.0) (input 158.790 PL 179.9)<br /> 7 TOUTLE 155.970 R (88.5) (input 158.790 PL 136.5)<br /> 8 D5 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 136.5 PL)<br /> 9 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 10 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> District 6: Chelan, Okanogan, Kittitas, Douglas, Grant County<br /> HQ: Wenatchee<br /> Detachments: Cle Elum (CVD), Ellensburg, Moses Lake, Okanogan<br /> <br /> 1 WENATCH 154.935 R (123.0) (input 158.985 PL 123.0) Chelan Co., Douglas Co.<br /> 2 CAR 1 155.445 S <br /> 3 CAR 2 155.460 S <br /> 4 OKANOGN 154.680 R (123.0) (input 159.045 PL 123.0) Okanogan Co.<br /> 5 ELLENS 154.770 R (123.0) (input 155.850 PL 123.0) Kittitas Co.<br /> 6 EPHRATA 155.505 R (123.0) (input 154.695 PL 123.0) Grant Co.<br /> 7 SLATEPK 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 110.9)<br /> 8 STEV E 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 123.0)<br /> 9 D6 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 123.0 PL)<br /> 10 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 11 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> District 7: Snohomish, Skagit, Whatcom, San Juan, Island County<br /> HQ: Marysville<br /> Detachments: Bellingham, Burlington, Monroe, Oak Harbor, Silver Lake<br /> Bow Hill POE - I-5 Southbound milepost 236 (Bow) (Scale 33)<br /> Silverlake - Milepost 188 Southbound I-5, Everett, WA<br /> <br /> 1 EVERETT 155.655 R (141.3) (input 154.845 PL 141.3) Snohomish Co. &amp; Camano Is.<br /> 2 CAR 4 154.935 S<br /> 3 MT VERN 155.505 R (141.3) (input 159.045 PL 141.3) Skagit Co. &amp; Whidbey Is.<br /> 4 BELNGHM 154.755 R (141.3) (input 155.250 PL 141.3) Whatcom Co.<br /> 5 SHUKSAN 154.755 R (141.3) (input 158.790 PL 141.3)<br /> 6 CASCADE 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 173.8)<br /> 7 STEV W 155.970 R (input 154.845 PL 141.3)<br /> 8 D7 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 141.3 PL)<br /> 9 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 10 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> #7 = District HQ in Marysville<br /> 710 = Detachment Office at Silver Lake Rest Area.<br /> 711 = Detachment Office in Monroe<br /> 712 = Detachment Office in Mount Vernon<br /> 713 = Detachment Office in Bellingham<br /> 714 = Detachment Office in Oak Harbor<br /> <br /> Scale 38 is I-5 Northbound milepost 214<br /> <br /> District 8: Clallam, Jefferson, Grays Harbor, Pacific, Mason, Kitsap County<br /> HQ: Bremerton<br /> Detachments: Bremerton, Hoquiam, Port Angeles, Naselle, Shelton<br /> Naselle - 797 SR4, Naselle, WA <br /> <br /> 1 BREMRTN 154.665 R (110.9) (input 159.075 PL 110.9) Kitsap &amp; Mason Co.<br /> 2 CAR 4 154.935 S<br /> 3 PT ANG 154.770 S (110.9) Clallam &amp; Jefferson Co.(&quot;Gardiner&quot;) <br /> 4 HOQUIAM 154.695 S (mobiles use 110.9 PL) Grays Harbor &amp; Pacific Co. (&quot;Capitol&quot;)<br /> 5 CLR WTR 155.970 R (input 158.790 PL 110.9)<br /> 6 D8 ST 155.970 S State (mobiles use 110.9 PL)<br /> 7 LERN 155.370 S (mobiles use 100.0 PL) <br /> 8 NLEC 155.475 S <br /> <br /> <br /> 'Hoquiam' = Grays Harbor Co.<br /> 'Naselle' or 'Astoria' = Pacific Co.<br /> <br /> <br /> All areas:<br /> 151.040 S WSP to DOT simplex (mountain passes)<br /> 155.970 R (none) State common (input 159.075)<br /> 155.970 S Simplex activity in various areas<br /> 155.970 S Liquor control board field agents<br /> 159.045 misc. on-scene ops (Eastern WA)<br /> 159.075 S F-28 old Aircraft freq.<br /> 151.115 S F-29 Link to DOT 800mhz radio system (Stevens Pass)(input to 154.680 WSP Seattle S)<br /> 155.445 S F-30<br /> 156.075 S F-32 Commercial Vehicle Enforcement (Scales) &amp; Youth Ecology Corps<br /> 158.985 S F-33 <br /> 159.105 S F-35<br /> 155.250 S F-36<br /> 156.135 S OSCCR<br /> 453.475 MDT or AVLS<br /> 453.925 MDT or AVLS<br /> 460.175 MDT<br /> 460.250 MDT<br /> 460.425 MDT<br /> 460.475 MDT<br /> 155.700 WSP Tac Squad (patrol cars do not have access to this channel)<br /> <br /> <br /> State Fish &amp; Wildlife DNR State Common (159.420) or other DNR frequencies. <br /> <br /> <br /> B(oy)- Capitol Security units bike patrol<br /> D(avid)- Detectives<br /> J(ay)- Employee of outside agency<br /> K(ing)- Canine unit<br /> M(ary)- Motorcycle unit<br /> O(cean)- Off Duty unit<br /> X- Non-Trooper WSP employee<br /> W/Wildlife- WDFW<br /> L/Liquor- WSLCB<br /> P/Parks- Park Rangers<br /> T/Tom- WSDOT Incident Response/Service Patrol<br /> F/Forest- USFS units<br /> C/Corrections- DOC Corrections Officers/Buses<br /> LI/Labor- L&amp;I Investigators<br /> H/Homeland- DHS<br /> G/Gaming- Gambling Commission Agents<br /> R/Reclamation- BLM units<br /> BN/Burlington Northern- BNSF RR Police<br /> UP/Union Pacific- UPRR Police<br /> CA/Child Admin- DSHS/CPS<br /> <br /> 1- WSP Chief<br /> 2- WSP Deputy Chief<br /> 3-5 WSP Assistant Chiefs<br /> 7-39 WSP Captains<br /> 21-28 District Commanders <br /> 40-99 Lieutenants<br /> 100-299 Sergeants<br /> 300 and up Troopers<br /> S-5 Department Pschologist<br /> S-9 Communications Division Administrator <br /> S14-22 Special Deputy<br /> <br /> X14-99 Electronic Services<br /> X101- Communications Division Assistant Administrator<br /> X-108 Communications Training Program Manager<br /> X111-118 Communications Station Managers<br /> X119-149 Communications Supervisors (Comm Off-3)<br /> X150-199 Communications Officer-2 (Trainers)<br /> X200-329 Communications Officers, Comm Off-1, Comm Off Assistants<br /> X330-339 Supply Section/Propery Management<br /> X340-379 Fire Protection<br /> X380-389 Misc<br /> X390-399 Evidence Control<br /> X400-419 Fleet<br /> X420-426 ACCESS/WACIC<br /> X427-458 IT<br /> X459-474 Identification<br /> X475-499 Property Management<br /> X500-599 Crime Lab<br /> X600-679 VIN Inspectors<br /> X680-689 MAIT<br /> X690-694 Aviation Unit<br /> X695-699 Breath Test<br /> X700-899 CVEO<br /> X900-999 CVEO Motor Carrier Safety Assistance Program<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Aircraft frequencies==<br /> <br /> <br /> (Aircraft freqs that can be heard from the Puget Sound area)<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/atc.jpg Washington State air traffic control VHF frequency map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/atc.bmp printable bitmap of the above map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> NDB (ADF) freqs can be found in the frequency database: &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/s.php?sfreq=4&amp;stype=B&amp;ssort=1&amp;cfreq=1&amp;cstate=1&amp;ccity=1&amp;z=1 NDB database]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/XX/arinc600a.jpg Enroute freqs for international flights (shortwave)]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/XX/arinc.jpg Older 1983 shortwave map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 108.0 - 117.975 VOR/DME/ILS navigation<br /> 110.6 PAE Paine Field VOR/DME<br /> 111.5 IAWO unknown - probably Arlington airport<br /> 113.7 YYJ Saltspring Island VOR<br /> 116.8 SEA Sea-Tac VOR/DME<br /> <br /> 118.0 - 121.4 ATC &amp; ATIS<br /> 118.0 Sea-Tac ATIS <br /> 118.1 Portland Appr<br /> 118.2 Whidbey Appr<br /> 118.3 BFI Tower<br /> 118.5 Tacoma Tower (Rwy 17)<br /> 118.55 Seattle Center (Yakima)<br /> 118.9 BFI Clearance Delivery<br /> 119.1 ? Possibly Victoria Tower<br /> 119.2 Sea-Tac Departure<br /> 119.5 Seattle Appr <br /> 119.65 Seattle Center (The Dalles)<br /> 119.7 Victoria Tower<br /> 119.9 Sea-Tac Tower<br /> 120.1 Seattle Appr <br /> 120.2 Paine Tower<br /> 120.3 Seattle Center (Beacon Hill)<br /> 120.4 Seattle Appr <br /> 120.6 BFI Tower<br /> 120.7 Whidbey Appr<br /> 121.1 Seattle Center Appr/Dep<br /> 121.125 Skagit Regional (AWOS)<br /> 121.2 Bremerton ATIS<br /> 121.35 Seattle Center (Oregon area?)<br /> <br /> 121.5 Emergency &amp; ELT<br /> <br /> 121.6 - 121.9 Ground Control<br /> <br /> 121.7 Sea-Tac Ground Control<br /> 121.75 ? Ground Control - unknown airport<br /> 121.8 ? Possibly Paine Field ground control<br /> <br /> 121.95 - 122.675 FSS &amp; misc.<br /> 122.1 Nanaimo FSS<br /> 122.55 Seattle FSS<br /> <br /> 122.7 - 123.2 Unicom &amp; misc.<br /> 122.7 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Arlington, Bremerton, Sequim, Hoquiam, Kenmore (seaplanes)<br /> <br /> 122.775 Traffic Helicopters (primary)<br /> <br /> 122.8 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Anacortes, Friday Harbor, Oak Harbor, Blaine, Chehalis-Centralia, Auburn,<br /> Thun Field (Puyallup), Sky Harbor (Sultan), Sanderson Field (Shelton)<br /> <br /> 123.0 Unicom for uncontrolled airports<br /> Kent, Snohomish (Harvey Field), Burlington, Pt. Townsend<br /> <br /> 123.025 Unicom - Helicopters (local Traffic Helicopters secondary)<br /> <br /> 123.2 - 123.675 Misc.<br /> 123.275 Boeing test flights<br /> 123.3 Gliders<br /> 123.5 Gliders<br /> <br /> 123.7 - 128.8 ATC &amp; ATIS<br /> 123.7 Comox Terminal<br /> 123.8 Chinook Appr<br /> 123.9 Seattle Appr<br /> 124.05 Tacoma Narrows ATIS<br /> 124.2 Seattle Center (Scappoose)<br /> <br /> 124.4 Olympia Tower<br /> 124.65 Gray AAF (Ft. Lewis) ATIS<br /> 124.7 Renton Tower<br /> 124.8 McChord Tower (Rwy 34)<br /> 124.9 Bellingham Tower<br /> 125.1 Seattle Center (Neah Bay) - Olympic Peninsula<br /> 125.6 Seattle Center (approaching aircraft 16k-9k)<br /> 125.8 Seattle Center (Horton)<br /> 125.9 Seattle Appr<br /> 125.95 Vancouver Center <br /> 126.1 Seattle Center (Wenatchee)<br /> 126.125 Vancouver Terminal<br /> 126.2 Gray Tower (Rwy 15)<br /> 126.5 Seattle Appr<br /> 126.6 Seattle Center (Larch Mtn) - areas South and East of Tacoma<br /> 126.95 Renton ATIS<br /> 127.1 Advisory Freq - not sure what area it covers<br /> 127.75 Boeing Field ATIS<br /> 127.8 Victoria Terminal VFR (simulcast on 133.85)<br /> 128.0 Sea-Tac Clearance Delivery<br /> 128.15 Seattle Center (Redmond, OR / Scappoose)<br /> 128.25 San Juan Advisory freq<br /> to quote Colin... &quot;All aircraft in the San Juan Island areas are<br /> encouraged to monitor and report on this freq&quot;<br /> 128.3 Seattle Center (Larch Mtn) - Olympia and Elma area<br /> 128.45 Seattle Center (Mullan Pass)<br /> 128.5 Seattle Center (Ft. Lawton) - airspace under 6000 ft<br /> 128.6 Vancouver Appr<br /> 128.65 Paine Field ATIS<br /> 128.75 ?<br /> <br /> 128.825 - 132.05 Corporate en-route &amp; ACARS<br /> <br /> Inbound flights usually report in about 10 to 15 minutes before landing. <br /> An inbound flight usually will make fuel requests (if needed) and give<br /> ETA. The base will respond with a gate assignment.<br /> <br /> Outbound flights usually report in about 5 to 10 minutes after takeoff.<br /> An outbound flight will report takeoff time, fuel status, passenger load,<br /> and cargo weight.<br /> <br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Sun Country Airlines<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Aeroflot<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Omni Air Int'l (handled by Premier Avai 1 ground services)<br /> 128.825 Sea-Tac Martinair (outbound) (handled by Slatterly ground services)<br /> 128.825 Portland Aero Air (FBO) Learjet maintenance<br /> 128.9 BFI Airpac Airlines<br /> 128.9 Vancouver Cathay Pacific (inbound)<br /> 128.925 Sea-Tac Signature (FBO) fueling &amp; ground transportation<br /> 128.95 Vancouver Kelowna Flightcraft (Purolator)<br /> 128.975 ? unknown airline (outbound) to Penticton/Cranbrook<br /> 129.0 Sea-Tac Air Canada (handled by United)<br /> 129.0 Vancouver Canada 3000 Airlines ('Elite xxx')<br /> 129.025 BFI Galvin Flight Services (FBO)<br /> 129.1 ? Light aircraft operating in the Vancouver area<br /> 129.2 ? Canadian planes - some flights going to Calgary<br /> 129.2 ? &quot;Timber 1&quot; and &quot;Timber 2&quot; - possibly Timberline Air or Kwatna Timber<br /> 129.2 ? inbound to sea-tac<br /> 129.225 Sea-Tac American Airlines<br /> 129.325 Sea-Tac Horizon Airlines<br /> 129.375 Sea-Tac Casino Express<br /> 129.4 Sea-Tac ARINC - San Francisco Radio<br /> 129.425 BFI UPS (also Vancouver, Victoria, Pt. Angeles)<br /> 129.45 Vancouver America West Airlines (handled by United)<br /> 129.45 Vancouver United Airlines and United Express (Skywest)<br /> 129.5 Sea-Tac United Airlines<br /> 129.5 Sea-Tac Shuttle by United ('Air Coach xxx')<br /> 129.5 Portland Delta Airlines<br /> 129.55 Victoria Canadian Airlines (outbound)<br /> 129.575 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 129.6 Sea-Tac American Trans Air ('Amtran xxx')<br /> 129.6 Sea-Tac Omni Air (inbound) calling Slattery Ground Services - no response<br /> 129.7 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 129.725 Sea-Tac Cargolux Air Freight<br /> 129.775 Vancouver Air Canada (outbound ops)<br /> 129.825 Seattle Airlift NW (helicopters), also Lear 359EF doing patient transport<br /> 129.85 ARINC - San Francisco Radio<br /> 129.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines (maintenance)<br /> 129.925 Sea-Tac Continental Airlines<br /> 130.0 Air Canada - possibly inbound for Penticton<br /> 130.025 ACARS data<br /> 130.05 Sea-Tac British Airways<br /> 130.1 Sea-Tac Delta Airlines<br /> 130.1 Sea-Tac Vanguard Airlines<br /> 130.125 ? Light aircraft operating in the San Juans<br /> 130.15 Portland American Airlines<br /> 130.175 Vancouver/Victoria Air Canada<br /> 130.200 Vancouver British Airways<br /> 130.225 Sea-Tac old TWA freq. Unknown if used now.<br /> 130.25 Sea-Tac Kitty Hawk (Air freight)<br /> 130.275 ? ?<br /> 130.3 Kenmore Air Harbor &amp; Lake Union Air<br /> 130.35 Vancouver Air Canada<br /> 130.375 ? (Canada - inbound to Richmond)<br /> 130.45 Sea-Tac Scandinavian Airlines<br /> 130.45 Sea-Tac China Airlines ('Dynasty xxx')<br /> 130.475 Vancouver Air Canada ? (maintenance)<br /> 130.5 Portland Alaska Airlines<br /> 130.525 Bellingham United Express<br /> 130.575 Vancouver West Jet<br /> 130.6 ?<br /> 130.625 San Juans West Isle Air<br /> 130.65 Sea-Tac National Airlines ('Red Rock xxx')<br /> 130.65 ? unknown airline '125' calling operations<br /> 130.675 Vancouver Continental Airlines<br /> 130.7 ? small commercial passenger planes going to Vancouver Harbor &amp; Victoria -<br /> probably Harbour Air Seaplanes, might be Baxter Air...<br /> 130.7 Sea-Tac Scandinavian Airlines (inbound)<br /> 130.725 Sea-Tac Horizon Airlines/Big Sky Airlines (inbound), Northwest Airlines<br /> 130.75 ACARS data<br /> 130.8 Vancouver Canadian Airlines<br /> 130.825 Sea-Tac Frontier Airlines<br /> 130.85 Sea-Tac Southwest Airlines<br /> 130.875 Sea-Tac Alaska Airlines (outbound)<br /> 130.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines/Air Canada (outbound)<br /> 130.925 Sea-Tac America West Airlines ('Cactus xxx')<br /> 130.95 ? unknown airline (outbound) '1240'<br /> 131.0 BFI Airborne Express ('ABEX xxx') maintenance<br /> 131.025 ? - light aircraft or helicopter w/fuel requests<br /> 131.05 Sea-Tac United Express (Skywest)<br /> 131.15 Sea-Tac US Air<br /> 131.2 Sea-Tac Alaska Airlines (inbound)<br /> 131.25 Vancouver Helijet Airways<br /> 131.275 ? unknown commercial airliners - Vancouver<br /> 131.35 Portland Horizon Airlines<br /> 131.4 ?<br /> 131.425 Sea-Tac EVA Air<br /> 131.45 ? (Canada)<br /> 131.475 ACARS data (Air Canada)<br /> 131.525 ? unknown airline - San Juans, BFI, Pt. Townsend, Friday Harbor - scenic flights<br /> possibly Vashon Island Air<br /> 131.55 ACARS data (primary)<br /> 131.6 Sea-Tac old Harbor Airlines freq. Unknown if used now.<br /> 131.6 San Juans Harbor Airlines<br /> 131.625 Sea-Tac DHL ('Reliant xxx')<br /> 131.675 ? (Canada - outbound) '103' calling operations<br /> 131.7 Sea-Tac Northwest Airlines (inbound)<br /> 131.7 Sea-Tac Hawaiian Airlines (inbound) - handled by Northwest<br /> 131.725 Sea-Tac Evergreen Air Freight<br /> 131.75 BFI Aeroflight<br /> 131.75 bonanza 82159 calling unknown base station<br /> 131.8 ? ?<br /> 131.825 Paine Field FedEx (secondary when they can't contact on 131.925)<br /> 131.825 ? ? (maintenance)<br /> 131.85 ? ?<br /> 131.875 Vancouver West Jet<br /> 131.9 Vancouver Canadian Airlines (maintenance)<br /> 131.925 FedEx (Sea-Tac, Portland, Paine Field)<br /> 131.925 Sea-Tac Empire Airlines (outbound)<br /> 131.95 ? ?<br /> 132.0 Vancouver Alaska Airlines<br /> 132.0 Bellingham Horizon (inbound)<br /> 132.025 BFI Flight Center (FBO)<br /> <br /> 132.075 - 136.475 ATC &amp; ATIS&lt;<br /> 132.075 Seattle Center (Horton)<br /> 132.2 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.3 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.4 ?<br /> 132.6 Seattle Center (Yakima)<br /> 132.7 Vancouver Center<br /> 132.95 Paine Tower<br /> 133.0 Portland Appr<br /> 133.1 ?<br /> 133.5 Vancouver Center<br /> 133.65 Sea-Tac Appr<br /> 133.7 Vancouver Center<br /> 133.85 Victoria Appr (Victoria Terminal main VFR freq) simulcast on 127.8<br /> 133.95 Victoria Terminal (north - Nanaimo)<br /> 134.15 Ault Field (Whidbey Island) ATIS<br /> 134.4 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.55 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.8 Vancouver Center<br /> 134.95 Seattle Center (Whidbey Island) - Mt. Vernon/Bellingham area<br /> 135.05 Vancouver Center<br /> 135.1 Whidbey Island NAS Clearance Delivery<br /> 135.45 Seattle Center (The Dalles)<br /> 135.5 Vancouver Center<br /> 135.525 Seattle Center (Beacon Hill)<br /> 135.625 Arlington AWOS<br /> <br /> 136.5 - 136.975 Corporate en-route &amp; ACARS<br /> 136.525 Sea-Tac Emery Air Freight<br /> 136.850 ACARS data<br /> <br /> A real air chart will provide more detailed information than what is listed<br /> here. This is a simple compilation of comm intercepts.<br /> All of these frequencies can be heard from the Puget Sound area.<br /> <br /> Simulcasting is very common in this area for ATC and control towers.<br /> Here are some typical simulcast groups:<br /> <br /> 118.2 / 120.7<br /> 119.2 / 119.5 / 120.4<br /> 119.7 / 121.7<br /> 120.2 / 132.95<br /> 120.3 / 128.5<br /> 120.3 / 125.1 / 126.6 / 135.525<br /> 121.1 / 127.1<br /> 123.9 / 125.9 / 133.65<br /> 125.6 / 125.9 / <br /> 125.1 / 134.95<br /> 125.1 / 128.5 / 134.95<br /> 128.5 / 134.95<br /> <br /> also crossband simulcasting to the UHF military air band:<br /> <br /> 118.3 / 257.8 (BFI Tower)<br /> 119.2 / 284.7 (Sea-Tac Tower)<br /> 120.2 / 132.95 / 287.9 / 339.8 (Paine Tower)<br /> 120.3 / 273.6<br /> 120.4 / 395.0<br /> 123.9 / 338.2<br /> 125.1 / 319.2<br /> 126.6 / 343.6<br /> 128.65 / 387.0 (Paine ATIS)<br /> 134.95 / 270.3<br /> <br /> <br /> Ramp freqs<br /> 452.100 Horizon Airlines Ground<br /> 460.650 Southwest Airlines Ground<br /> 460.675 America West Airlines Ground<br /> 460.700 R (100.0) Alaska Airlines Ground/Maintenance<br /> 460.725 R (203.5) United Airlines Ground<br /> 460.750 R (114.8) Delta Airlines Ground<br /> 460.775 R (100.0) Alaska Airlines Ground<br /> 460.800 Horizon Airlines Ground<br /> 460.850 R (127.3) ?<br /> 460.875 R (192.8) Northwest/Continental Airlines Ground<br /> <br /> <br /> Check out the &quot;Northwest Aircraft Communications&quot; web page for more information.<br /> (Its on the Intercept &quot;Links&quot; page)<br /> <br /> Thanks to Matt, Tad, Dennis &amp; everyone else who contributed info for this page.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Railroad==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/div-pa.gif BNSF system map]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/bnsflist.htm older BN freq list with channel numbers]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [http://www.interceptradio.com/files/US/WA/bnsfd.htm BNSF detector list]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> 160.035 Victoria<br /> 160.215 Tacoma (unverified)<br /> 160.230 Fife Yard or Argo Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.260 Green Mountain repeater. Heard units in Snohomish.<br /> 160.320 supposedly BNSF Delta Yard. Heard miscellaneous simplex comms.<br /> 160.335 unknown usage. Hear data bursts about every 4 minutes.<br /> 160.380 Cascade Tunnel (unverified)<br /> 160.470 Seattle Yard<br /> 160.590 (PBX) Snohomish/Skagit/Whatcom co.<br /> 160.620 (PBX) &quot;MRAS&quot;<br /> 160.650 Balmer Yard, Tacoma Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.665 Operations - Thurston Co.<br /> 160.710 ARES data bursts from trains<br /> 160.725 unknown. Supposedly BNSF<br /> 160.740 Spokane (unverified)<br /> 160.800 Yakima Valley Terminal (unverified)<br /> 160.830 Stacy Yard (unverified), also hear repair crews on this freq.<br /> 160.920 Seattle East<br /> 160.980 South Seattle Ramp (unverified)<br /> 161.010 miscellaneous yard usage<br /> 161.100 BNSF &quot;Seattle East&quot; (Edmonds east to Lyons Wa (Spokane). Also detectors.<br /> 161,100 BNSF &quot;Centralia South&quot; Tenino-Vancouver Jct WA <br /> 161.160 South Seattle Yard. &quot;Seattle Terminal Dispatcher&quot; Tukwila-King Street<br /> 161.250 Delta &amp; Bayside Yard, Bridge 37, Line Everett north to Canada. Also detectors.<br /> 161.250 Harbor Island (unverified)<br /> 161.250 BNSFSwtiching Centralia Yard<br /> 161.250 BNSF Auburn-SP&amp;S Jct (Kennewick) (thanks Don !)<br /> 161.310 Seattle Yard, Balmer Hump, Tacoma Yard (unverified)<br /> 161.370 work crews, &quot;North Service 5&quot;<br /> 161.400 unknown BNSF. Occasional data bursts.<br /> 161.415 BNSF &quot;Centralia North&quot; Tenino-Tukwila<br /> 161.415 CN Joint Vancouver BC (unverified)<br /> 161.460 Puget Sound &amp; Pacific channel 2 (unverified)<br /> 161.475 Puget Sound &amp; Pacific channel 1 Main Ch.<br /> 161.505 Seattle Yard (unverified)<br /> 161.550 appears to be a yard channel.<br /> 457.9125 unknown BNSF<br /> 452.9375 MARY transceiver<br /> 457.9375 FRED transceiver<br /> 452.900 unknown<br /> 452.9125<br /> 452.925/457.925 DPU<br /> 452.950/457.950 DPU <br /> 911.500 &quot;<br /> 918.500 &quot;<br /> <br /> 936.8875, 936.9375, 936.9875 ATCS transmitters - I have yet to hear activity<br /> on these freqs however I've seen 900mhz beam antennas at some local railroad<br /> crossings. <br /> <br /> <br /> Union Pacific<br /> 160.290 (PBX) Haven't heard it in a while. Possibly abandoned.<br /> 160.350 160.410 160.800 Argo Yard and Fife Yard (unverified)<br /> 160.515 &quot;2727&quot; Road Ch. Argo (S Seattle to Reservation, Tacoma)<br /> 160.740 &quot;4242&quot; Road Ch. Eastern Washington (Hinkle Ore to Eastport Id.) <br /> 160.605 (PBX) also some strange tone data bursts<br /> 160.680 Yard channel<br /> 161.235 Thurston County<br /> 160.785 &quot;4545&quot; Road Ch. Cascade Summit Ore to K Falls<br /> <br /> AMTRAK<br /> 160.455 supposedly Amtrak's on-board freq.<br /> 160.620 BNSF/Amtrak (PBX) &quot;MRAS&quot;<br /> <br /> <br /> Tacoma Rail<br /> 161.070 <br /> 161.145 (E Olympia-Belmore)<br /> <br /> 160.575 161.190 (unverified)<br /> 161.295 traffic heard-Yard? <br /> 161.445 (Tideflats Yard Tacoma)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Simpson Timber Railroad (Shelton)<br /> 160.440 161.340 <br /> <br /> 160.845 161.085 (unverified)<br /> <br /> <br /> Curtis Milburn Railroad (Thurston Co.)<br /> 160.245 <br /> <br /> <br /> Mt. Rainier Scenic Railroad<br /> 160.635 (unverified)<br /> <br /> Mt. Vernon Terminal Railway<br /> 160.875 (unverified)<br /> <br /> BC Rail<br /> 160.305 BC Rail (Vancouver)<br /> <br /> Puget Sound Historic Railway<br /> 161.355 (unverified)<br /> <br /> Chehalis-Centralia Railroad<br /> no frequencies on file<br /> <br /> Lake Whatcom Railway<br /> <br /> no frequencies on file<br /> <br /> Other<br /> 160.275 unknown. Comes in too weak at my place to copy.<br /> 160.380 units &quot;Quebec Base&quot; and &quot;Papa 3&quot;. No idea who it is.<br /> 160.530 unknown<br /> 160.785 Unknown railroad - rarely used<br /> 160.950 Unknown railroad<br /> 160.980 Unknown railroad. Possibly Canada.<br /> 160.995 repeater input<br /> 161.025 unknown railroad<br /> 161.175 unknown railroad<br /> 161.325 unknown railroad<br /> 161.430 unknown<br /> 161.520 repeater input, also unknown simplex comms.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Puget Sound Energy==<br /> <br /> <br /> S = Simplex R = Repeater PL tone in parentheses ()<br /> <br /> Electric<br /> 153.410 On-scene simplex ?<br /> 153.425 S (103.5) Whidbey Island<br /> 153.440 S (103.5) Puyallup/Buckley area<br /> 153.545 S (103.5) Whatcom Co. &amp; Thurston Co.<br /> 153.605 S (103.5) Kirkland/Redmond<br /> 153.620 S (103.5) Skagit Co. ,(possibly North Bend too, not verified)<br /> 153.635 S (103.5) Pt. Townsend &amp; Vashon Is.<br /> 153.650 S (103.5) Bellevue/Factoria<br /> 153.680 S (103.5) Auburn/South King Co.<br /> 158.130 I haven't copied anything on this freq. Supposedly Kitsap Co.<br /> 158.145 &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; &quot; Renton<br /> <br /> 451.050 R (103.5) Radio Shop<br /> 451.1375 Telemetry heard in Bellingham<br /> 451.225<br /> 451.250 R (103.5) Unknown use<br /> 451.700<br /> <br /> <br /> Gas<br /> 900mhz EDACS trunked (EDACS Narrow - 4800 baud)<br /> LCN numbers in parentheses ()<br /> <br /> Capitol Peak (site 1)<br /> ??? <br /> <br /> Gold Mt. (site 2)<br /> 936.3875 (1)<br /> 936.400 (2)<br /> 936.4125 (3)<br /> 936.425 (4)<br /> <br /> Tiger Mt. (site 3)<br /> 936.4375 (1)<br /> 936.450 (2)<br /> 936.4625 (3)<br /> 936.000 (4)<br /> <br /> Gunsite Ridge (Granite Falls) (site 4)<br /> 936.475 (1)<br /> 936.450 (2) <br /> 936.500 (3)<br /> 937.4125 (4)<br /> <br /> Tacoma (28th st) (site 5)<br /> 936.475<br /> <br /> Sumner (White River) (site 6)<br /> 936.900 (1)<br /> (2) is possibly 936.9125<br /> 936.925 (3)<br /> 936.950 (4)<br /> <br /> Columbia (Seattle) (site 7)<br /> 935.450 (1)<br /> 935.4625 (2)<br /> 935.475 (3)<br /> 935.4875 (4)<br /> 935.500 (5)<br /> <br /> Talkgroups<br /> ------------------------------------------------------------------------<br /> Hex Dec AFS:<br /> 0111 273 02-021<br /> 0116 278 02-026<br /> 011A 282 02-032<br /> 011C 284 02-034 appears to be Gas service dispatch<br /> 011D 285 02-035<br /> 011E 286 02-036<br /> 011F 287 02-037 appears to be Gas service dispatch for the Issaquah area<br /> 0121 289 02-041 used in Snohomish county (gas service dispatch)<br /> 0122 290 02-042<br /> 012C 300 02-054 <br /> 0133 307 02-063<br /> 0147 327 02-087<br /> 0163 355 02-123<br /> 0171 369 02-141<br /> <br /> <br /> Notes<br /> Not a lot of traffic on this system. It can be easily scanned without<br /> an EDACS-capable trunking scanner by putting in all the freqs for one<br /> of the sites and then locking out the control channel.<br /> <br /> Thanks to Dennis and Flash for their contributions.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Mutual Aid, State Ops, I-Call, and I-Tac==<br /> <br /> <br /> Mutual-aid channels are available so different<br /> public safety agencies have common channels they<br /> can use to communicate with other agencies.<br /> <br /> 153.830 is the statewide fire mutual aid channel. On the air<br /> you might hear it referred to as &quot;Red Net&quot; or &quot;Firecom&quot;.<br /> Its typically used for comms when multiple fire departments<br /> respond to an incident. Sometimes it will be used within a<br /> department as a spare tactical channel.<br /> <br /> 155.370 is used throughout most of the state as a police<br /> mutual aid channel. Its called &quot;LERN&quot; (Law Enforcement<br /> Radio Network). Basically the same usage rules as &quot;Red Net&quot;.<br /> This is commonly used when there is a police pursuit<br /> involving State Patrol and city/county police departments.<br /> LERN is also patched into the King County regional trunk system.<br /> <br /> 155.475 is the national law enforcement emergency channel (NLEC).<br /> Its rarely used in the Puget Sound area.<br /> <br /> 156.135 is OSCCR - On Scene Command &amp; Coordination Radio. Typically<br /> used by State Patrol at major accident scenes. Occasional<br /> tactical usage by city/county agencies.<br /> <br /> 155.190 is MARS - Mutual Aid Radio. Its a crossband system linking<br /> a VHF repeater, a UHF repeater, and the King County regional<br /> trunk system. Its typically used by agencies with incompatible<br /> radio systems (for example WSP talking to Seattle PD). Its<br /> often used for pursuits and sometimes for the King County<br /> Guardian 1 helicopter.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> State Ops refers to five 800mhz simplex channels. <br /> <br /> I-Call and I-Tac are 800mhz conventional repeaters.<br /> <br /> Some or all of these are programmed into agencies that use 800mhz radios.<br /> Commonly heard users of these freqs are Police, Fire, and State DOT.<br /> <br /> Besides short range on-scene tactical comms, these freqs are also useful<br /> for comms between radios that have incompatible trunking formats (for example<br /> the Johnson MultiNet radios used by State DOT can talk to the Motorola<br /> trunked radios used by King County).<br /> <br /> Since the repeaters are conventional, they could function as a backup during<br /> a catastrophic trunk system failure in addition to site-trunking.<br /> <br /> State Ops, I-Call, and I-Tac use a CTCSS (PL) tone of 156.7<br /> <br /> State Ops<br /> 867.5375 State Ops 1<br /> 867.5625 State Ops 2<br /> 867.5875 State Ops 3<br /> 867.6125 State Ops 4<br /> 867.6375 State Ops 5<br /> <br /> <br /> I-Call and I-Tac<br /> 866.0125 I-Call Squak Mtn.<br /> 866.5125 I-Tac 1 South King County (Cambridge)<br /> 867.0125 I-Tac 2 Bellevue (near Somerset)<br /> 867.5125 I-Tac 3 Seattle (Capitol Hill)<br /> 868.0125 I-Tac 4 Shoreline (Crista Ministries tower)</div> Sat, 16 Aug 2014 01:02:53 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:WA_State http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/W7KI_Manpack_Radio <p>Rich:&#32;/* The Antenna */</p> <hr /> <div>[[File:FT857_and_tuner_in_pack.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;This article details how I set up a HF/VHF/UHF manpack radio.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> ==Overview==<br /> ===Design goals===<br /> Radio RF Output:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Minimum of 20W, preferable to have optional 50W+ available if needed<br /> Radio Frequency coverage:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : HF, 6 meters, 2 meters, and 70cm<br /> Radio Modes:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : FM/SSB/CW/PSK<br /> Radio receive current:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : preferably less than 700mA<br /> Tuner:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : 10-500ohm minimum, preferable little to no idle current<br /> Battery:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : sufficient to handle a weekend without recharging<br /> Power:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Battery, AC, or solar&lt;br&gt;<br /> Antenna:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Vertical or dipole with optional voltage balun<br /> PC:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Small netbook capable of digital modes<br /> Size:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Everything fits within a pack suitable for airplane carry-on (21x14x10&quot;).<br /> All items:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Weight as minimal as possible !<br /> Cost:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : $2500 neighborhood<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Radio===<br /> Here is a quick rundown of the radios I considered:&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Military radios==== <br /> : I looked at the PRC-104, PRC-132, PRC-138, PRC-320, PRC-1099, PRC-2000, and AEG SE-6861.<br /> : All of them are good radios. Only problem is I want HF/6/2/440 so I'm stuck<br /> : with looking at amateur radios.<br /> <br /> ====Vertex VX-1210====<br /> : This is a commercial radio ($1400+, 7.1lb w/batt, rx: 500mA, tx: 3A/5W, 5A/20W)<br /> : Very tempting but is HF only. Has option for internal autotuner and can be<br /> : set up for VFO operation. Battery is 14.4v 4AH.<br /> <br /> ====Mobat Micom 3 Pathfinder====<br /> : This is a 25W commercial radio. Excessive cost for this project. Otherwise a great radio !<br /> <br /> ====Outback radios (QMAC, Barrett, Codan)====<br /> : QMAC HF90 excessive cost &amp; no longer made, Barrett 940 too heavy (18.5lbs w/tuner battery)<br /> : Barrett 2040, Codan 2110 excessive cost.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-817ND====<br /> : Portable amateur radio ($600, 2.6lb, 8-16v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 2A/5W)<br /> : Tempting, and would pair nicely with the LDG Z-817 or Elecraft T1 tuner.<br /> : Only problem is I want 20W+. This could be accomplished with a Tokyo High Power HL-45B<br /> : amp ($400, 3.4 lbs, 8.5A/45W, 160-6m) + LDG Z-817H tuner.<br /> : This is a viable combination and has the benefit of low RX current.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC703+====<br /> : Amateur radio (discontinued, 4.4lb, 9-15.8v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 3A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Nice radio, big and easily readable display, built in autotuner. Wish it did 2m/440<br /> : like its bigger brother (IC-706).<br /> <br /> ====Elecraft KX3====<br /> : Portable amateur radio (new to market, 1.5lb, 8-14v(?), rx: 150-???mA, tx: ?A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Great display and control layout located on what would normally be considered the &quot;top&quot;<br /> : of the radio which gives ample room compared to other radios. Built in autotuner. CW paddles<br /> : right on front of the radio. I would have liked to see a little more than 10W however its<br /> : certainly a reasonable and usable amount of power (and better than 5W). Has option for <br /> : an external KXPA100 100W amp and KXAT100 tuner. Overall it is an exciting product and I <br /> : probably would have bought one if I wasn't looking to have 2m/440 in the same radio.<br /> : I don't know if it supports CTCSS for 10m FM repeaters and CTCSS/DCS for 6m FM repeaters.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC706MK2G====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 5.5lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1800-2000mA, tx: 20A/100W)<br /> : RX current way too high, VHF frontend easily overloads. Nice display as with the IC703<br /> : above. The RX current is a deal breaker for battery ops. <br /> <br /> ====Icom IC7000====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($1200, 5.1lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1300-1600mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : Nice radio. RX current better than IC706 but still a little on the high side for battery ops.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-897D====<br /> : Mobile/portable amateur radio ($900, 8.6lb, 11.7-15.9v, rx: 600-1000mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : HF/50 MHz:5 watts = 4.0-4.7 amps 10 watts = 5.3-6.4 amps 25 watts = 7.3-9.2 amps 50 watts = 10.6-12.9 amps<br /> : 144 MHz: 5 watts = 3.4 amps 10 watts = 4.2 amps 25 watts = 6.3 amps 50 watts = 9.4 amps<br /> : 420 MHz: 5 watts = 4.2 amps 10 watts = 5.6 amps 20 watts = 8.7 amps<br /> :<br /> : Designed for field ops and has room for internal batteries (13.2v, 9AH) however the batteries<br /> : add an additional 6.5lbs to a radio which is already heavy at 8.6lbs. One option is to run your<br /> : own external battery which gives you room to install an internal 120V power supply. Overall<br /> : I really like this radio but its ruggedness will cost you in weight. You can get the FT-857D<br /> : (sacrificing the 897's rugged case and internal battery space) and save 4lbs on your back.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-857D====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 4.6lb, 12.4-15.2v,<br /> : rx: 600-1000mA (spec) 650-700mA (green/red backlight) 590mA (backlight off)<br /> : tx: 2A/5W 5A/15W 22A/100W)<br /> : Unlike the FT-897D above, this radio does not come with a TCXO. By the time you spend $100 on<br /> : the TCXO you end up with about the same radio as the FT-897D for the same price. Comparing the<br /> : FT-857D to the FT-897D has some pluses: 4lbs lighter, detachable head, and easier to mount mobile.<br /> : The minuses are we don't get the rugged case and battery space. I don't think either of these<br /> : minuses will matter as the radio and batteries will end up in a pack. One other thing to note is<br /> : both the 857 and 897 will automatically limit the radio to 20W when running on battery power<br /> : (by grounding the brown wire on the power connector).<br /> : Spec says voltage is 12.4-15.2, manual says 11.73-15.87.<br /> : The 857's signal will start sounding bad at about 11.75v.<br /> <br /> Given everything above it came down to deciding between the FT-857D and FT-897D.&lt;br&gt;<br /> I chose the FT-857D because its 4lbs lighter than the FT-897D. Every pound counts when backpacking !&lt;br&gt;<br /> The radio is best equipped with: tcxo-9, keypad mic, (2) W4RT/inrad.net filters.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Tuner===<br /> For honorable mention we have the long-discontinued Kenwood AT-130 which is a very small 80-10m(+WARC)&lt;br&gt;<br /> manual tuner (6 x 2.4 x 6.3 inches, 3.5 lbs.). For field ops I prefer a small autotuner. Yaesu makes the&lt;br&gt;<br /> FC-30 ($170, 17-150 ohms, 3.1 x 1.8 x 10.2 in, 2.2 lbs) however its 17-150 ohm tuning range is quite&lt;br&gt;<br /> narrow compared to the LDG product line.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the breakdown of the LDG products I looked at. All of them have latching relays.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> : $200 LDG YT-100 for 857/897 100w 4-800 ohm 7 x 7 x 2 1.5lbs<br /> : $200 LDG AT-897+ for 857/897 100w 6-800 ohm 11.5 x 3.25 x 1.5 2.0lbs<br /> : $160 Z100+ ? 125w 6-800 ohm 5.5 x 5.5 x 1.5 1 lb w/o batts<br /> : $170 Z11pro2 6-1000 ohm 7.7 x 5.0 x 1.5 1.5lb w/o batts<br /> &lt;br&gt; <br /> I ended up going with the Z11pro2 as it can autotune based on RF sense which keeps the CAT and ACC ports free. This is good because we&lt;br&gt;<br /> need both ports for our data interface. Another bonus of RF sense tuning is it makes the radio PC-ALE capable provided the antenna is&lt;br&gt;<br /> tunable on whatever ALE frequencies are to be used.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device on the left is the data/soundcard interface&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[File:FT857_and_tuner.jpg]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Battery===<br /> The following text describes how to build a battery pack. If you do not want to build this battery pack then you can buy one already built. For example you can look up &quot;ZIPPY Flightmax 8400mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack&quot; which currently sells for about $75. You will need to find a suitable charger for it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> I initially considered using 11 Accupower NiMH low-discharge &quot;D&quot; cells (10aH, 1.25v, 145g ea.)&lt;br&gt;<br /> This would give us 13.75v, 10aH at 3.5lb for about $110.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After more research I went with (8) 40160S LiFePO4 batteries (16AH/ea). This project really only needs 4 of these<br /> batteries however I opted to build two battery packs. 4 of these batteries in series gives you around 13 volts.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The 40160S 16AH battery is no longer being sold. The manufacturer has replaced it with the 40152S 15AH battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Paired with each battery pack is a circuit which protects from overcharge/overdischarge/overcurrent. It also keeps the batteries balanced<br /> while charging. After a long search for a suitable lightweight container I found the 4-battery pack fits perfectly into a &quot;Huggies&quot;<br /> baby wipe plastic box. I cut a small slot in the box for a short piece of velcro which holds the lid closed. The complete pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If you intend on taking your backpack radio on a commercial aircraft, keep in mind there are restrictions on high capacity lithium ion batteries. If you believe this will be a problem you can build a pack from 11 NiMH D cells or use a pre-made NiMH RC pack. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Notice the top door works great for the powerpole.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is a view of the internals. The protection circuit board is on the top.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The AC adapter/charger===<br /> I wanted enough beef for the radio to do 20W off the adapter. I ended up getting IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter<br /> for about $14 off ebay. It is relatively small and weighs 0.4 lb. I run it through a bridge rectifier which reduces the voltage to 14.8V which is suitable for operating the radio and charging the battery pack. Of course running DC through a bridge rectifier only uses two of the four diodes however it was an inexpensive solution which is much easier than standalone diodes to mount to the cable/fuse.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I found that the battery pack can draw up to 8A during charging so I used a 10A fuse on the power supply. Yes, I know the power supply is only rated at 7.5A and putting a 10A fuse on it is not good practice. So far it hasn't been a problem. During charging the bridge rectifier can get quite hot so make sure it is on a non-flammable surface. The obvious solution to all this would be a series current limiting resistor which is something I'll look into when I get the time.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> For now I am charging the battery pack with a small smart charger (Noco Genius G3500) which is set for a standard 12V battery at a 3.5A charge rate. It just so happens that its output voltage on this setting is just right for charging the LiFePO4 battery. The Noco Genius is a handy little charger as it is also good for charging and topping off car batteries, AGM batteries, 12V 7AH brick batteries, etc. and it will float the batteries without overcharging them. Another nice thing about this charger is its small enough to fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ac_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Solar Panel===<br /> PowerFilm F15-1200 20W (10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6&quot; 1 lb )&lt;br&gt;<br /> Nice compact and light panel but a little pricey at $10/watt. I would have gone with their 30W panel but it was even more overpriced.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the solar panel<br /> [[File:W7ki_solar_panel.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Computer===<br /> EEEPC 1000h. Small battery-efficient netbook with 10&quot; screen. Used it because I had it on hand. Any netbook would probably do ok so<br /> long as it has mic/headphone jacks. One bonus of this particular computer is you can feed it 12VDC direct.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the computer<br /> [[File:W7ki_netbook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Data Interface===<br /> Homemade. Nothing fancy, just some audio isolation transformers, a level converter, and a PTT transistor.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The data interface and the tuner are attached to the mobile mounting bracket with velcro. Note how the mobile bracket is angled such that the front of the tuner is slightly elevated. This was done to give some clearance to the radio speaker and also helps to direct the audio out of the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_data_interface1.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Antenna===<br /> I looked at a variety of compact antennas (Outbacker Joey, Outbacker Stealth Plus, ATX-W38 walkabout, ATX-DHP, and a handful<br /> of others). It was difficult to find anything that would collapse to under 18 inches (requirement for the pack I'm using). It was probably just as well<br /> since many &quot;portable&quot; antennas are helical which I personally despise.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My original intent was to buy a &quot;Buddi&quot; product and evaluate how it worked in a vertical configuration. The only issue was whether their 80 meter coil would fit in the pack. I emailed them multiple times asking the dimensions of the coil but unfortunately all of my emails were ignored. This probably speaks volumes as to how they handle issues after a sale so I thought it best not to do business with them until their customer communication improves.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Of all the pre-made antennas I found two that appear to be worthwhile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One is the SuperAntenna MP1B SuperStick which is a good solution as it collapses to 12 inches and weighs under 2 pounds. When I first wrote this article their company had no products available which I believe was due to a transition in ownership. Their products are now available again and I plan on trying one out. I would buy the MP1B antenna, TM1 mount, and optionally MC60 coil for 60 meters and MC80 coil for 80 meters. A properly adjusted SuperAntenna requires no tuner however you need to use a correct length ground radial. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The other is the JPC-7 product line which can be found at http://www.108mhz.com/ham-antenna-c-59.html or on ebay. All three versions of the JPC-7 are lightweight and collapse to a small size.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you choose not to purchase a pre-made antenna, the text past this point describes an antenna/coil that you can build.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I ended up using a military AT271-A/PRC antenna. It is a 7 section antenna with a 3/8-24 base that extends to 113.5 inches and collapses to 17 inches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> It has an optional 8 inch spring (AB-129/PR) which I am not currently using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:At271a.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As an alternative I found an 8.5' collapsible aluminum pole made for measuring snowpacks and after some tinkering it worked like a charm. There is a threaded version which may work better (listed at the end of this article in the Parts Sources section).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pole_antenna.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Either of these antennas is very usable on HF when paired with a couple of 18&quot; aluminum extender rods and a large tapped coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_big_coil.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> Obviously running a huge coil with a short antenna is about as worthless as a short helical so its important to remember to use as much whip or longwire as you can if you<br /> are less than 1/4 wave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a horizontal option I built a tapped voltage balun which attaches to a vertical extension arm and connects to two spools of wire.<br /> [[File:W7ki_horiz_setup.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;The wire spools can also be used as a counterpoise for vertical configurations.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the bottom is a carbon fiber camera monopod which we use as a vertical extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the top is a carpal tunnel wrist strap which is used for attaching the monopod extension arm to the pack aluminum extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is wound on Coleman camping clothesline spools.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Another HF antenna option is to build the St. Louis Vertical: http://www.amqrp.org/projects/stluisvert/STLV%20Project.html&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For VHF/UHF I have a 17&quot; dual-band antenna. For VHF only you can also put one of the 18&quot; aluminum rods onto the 1&quot; antenna mount.&lt;br&gt;<br /> 6 meters can be done with the 17&quot; antenna on top of both 18&quot; rods.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Pack===<br /> I looked at dozens of packs before settling on the Jansport Driver 8. Most other packs were either oversized and/or too heavy.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My reasoning for a 21x14x10&quot; size limit is so you can carry this on a commercial airplane if you are traveling. You certainly wouldn't want<br /> to check this as luggage as it would probably get destroyed by handling or stolen.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Two main things I liked about the Driver 8 are the wheels and the telescoping arm. The telescoping arm is wonderful because it is very sturdy<br /> aluminum which allows you to securely attach an antenna to it. This is great for manpack operations if you want the antenna up while you are<br /> walking around with the pack on your back. It also works great for fixed operations as the pack itself can be used as an antenna base.<br /> The wheels not only give your back a break where smooth surfaces are available, they also give you the ability to easily lay down the pack when assembling a long antenna. Its like having a mini fold over tower.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The wheels are inline skate wheels and have a very low ground clearance. It will roll fine inside buildings or on a paved sidewalk. The wheels will not work on a trail. This is unfortunate as it is much easier to pull 35 lbs on wheels than to heft it on your back. One possible solution to this is to run a 1/2 inch rod (or thread stock?) along the bottom of the pack and install a pair of 10&quot; x 1.75 lightweight plastic wheels. I would use Martin Wheel part number 110 wheels because they come with metal ball bearings.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:w7ki_pack_radio.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Construction and Setup==<br /> A complete materials and sources list is at the end of this article.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Extension Rods and Antenna===<br /> To make the aluminum extension rods you need a 3 foot piece of aluminum rod. Cut the rod into 3 pieces, 2 of them will be 17 inches long and the third piece will be the remaining 2 inches.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take a 21/64 inch drill bit and drill about 1.5 inches into both ends of the 17 inch rods. Be careful to drill straight. Once this is done tap threads into both ends with a 3/8-24 tap. Tapping threads into aluminum generates a tremendous amount of heat so remember to tap slowly and use an oil lubricant. Right after tapping these rods I bumped one of them with my arm and got a very nasty burn.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the tapping is done thread a 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud into both ends of the rods. Then, for each rod, put a 3/8-24 jam nut over the stud on one end and put a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut over the stud on the other end. When you are done it should look like the picture below.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> This section deals with constructing the antenna if you chose not to buy an AT-271 antenna:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now grab the remaining 2 inch piece of aluminum rod. Drill one end 1 inch deep with a size F (.2443 inch) bit then drill the other end 1 inch deep with the 21/64 inch drill bit you used for the other rods. Tap 5/16-18 threads into the size F end and 3/8-24 threads into the 21/64 end.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take the aluminum snowpack pole, remove the lanyard string, push in the lower release spring button and shove it up the tube a couple inches, and tap the bottom for 5/16-18 threads. The two photos below show the start and finish of tapping the threads. I seriously do not recommend using vise-grips as shown in the photos. The antenna deforms very easily. It would be much better to lightly use a vise which can distribute the grip better with much less crush force. Again, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CRUSH OR DEFORM THE TUBE. I darn near destroyed the prototype using vise-grips.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Next we take a 1.5 inch 5/16-18 stud and thread half of it into the antenna. This is generally difficult to do so I recommend tightening two 5/16-18 nuts against each other onto the stud and use the outer nut with a wrench. Once the stud is threaded into the antenna you can thread the 2 inch aluminum rod onto the stud, then thread a 3/8-24 stud into the other end of the rod. Put a 3/8-24 jam nut onto the exposed threads. What you have done here is built a 5/16-18 to 3/8-24 thread adapter. The photo below shows what the finished product should look like.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rod_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The next step is to modify the antenna to make it conductive. The anodized surfaces do not conduct electricity so you need to take some sandpaper and sand out the inside of the bottom of each rod (about 3/4 inch should do). Another issue is the tapered inserts which are crimped into the top of the rods. These don't conduct either so you need to lightly bond them with an arc weld. This should be done with a MIG or TIG welder. Remember to sand the surfaces first, including the entire tapered section. I cheesed mine by using two truck batteries, a pair of jumper cables, and some real thin aluminum wire. Some people refer to this as hillbilly arc welding. Please don't do this unless you know the risks, know what you are doing, and you are using appropriate eye protection. Verify the end to end continuity of the antenna with an ohmmeter when you are done. Here is what mine looked like when it was done.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_hillbilly_weld.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The final step is to flatten out the pointed tip of the antenna rod. You can do this with a grinder or file.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Coil===<br /> The coil is made from a 7 3/4 inch piece of 4 inch diameter drainpipe with a drainpipe cap on each end. To make room for more coil turns we cut 1 3/8 inch off the end of the drainpipe cap. You need to cut two end caps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Locate the center of each cap, tap the center with a center punch or nail, drill a 1/8&quot; pilot hole, then drill in again with a 3/8&quot; bit.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now we take a piece of 1/4 inch schedule 80 pvc pipe and drill/tap it for 3/8-24 threads the same way you did the aluminum rods (except please don't use lubricating oil). Its important to use schedule 80 pipe as it has the correct inside diameter for tapping threads. The pipe should be about 7 1/2 inches long and later you might have to make some slight length adjustments for fit. Once your threads are tapped you can thread a 1.5 inch 3/8-24 stud into each end then put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer over the end (see photo below). Put one end into an end cap, put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer on the outside of the end cap, stack one 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal on top of the washer, and secure it with a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut stacked on top of the ring terminal.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Put the other end cap on. On the outside stack a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer, a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal, and a 3/8-24 jam nut.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to cover up any holes in the drainpipe with a square of duct tape.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To make the coil, glue 4 pieces of .065 Nylon Edge Trim as shown in the photo (credit to Phil AD5X for finding this edge trim). When cutting them to length, remember to offset each one to correctly accommodate a spirally-wound coil. Once this is done, drill a .065&quot; diagonal hole from the edge of the cap through the top of each cap (see photo), thread the wire through the hole and wind the coil with .064&quot; (14AWG) tin coated copper wire. Remember to keep tension on the coil or else it will wind loosely. The wire is stiff and doesn't come off the coil perfectly so there will be some manual coil alignment/straightening to do after the coil is wound. Once the coil is wound, put the ends thorough the 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminals, then cut &amp; solder. Be careful of heat damage to the plastic while soldering. Its usually best to loosen the end nuts prior to soldering as it will conduct less heat away from the ring terminals.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_end.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The coil tap is an EZ-Hook XM attached to a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal with an 11 inch piece of 22-gauge 7-strand insulated hookup wire. Attach the ring terminal above the coil ring terminal as shown in the photo.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_tap.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The EZ-Hook XM works great for 17AWG wire however its a little small for our 14AWG coil. The hook can be slightly adjusted with needlenose pliers to fit the 14AWG wire. The picture below shows the modified hook profile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ezhook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As built, the coil specs out like this: 7&quot; length, 4.25&quot; dia, 50 turns, 14ga .063 (spaced) = 129uH&lt;br&gt;<br /> Its a little overkill on the size &amp; inductance but it gives a lot of flexibility with short antennas.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Balun===<br /> The balun is based on a design by WB6ZQZ. His design appears to be a bifilar current balun in series with a quadrifilar voltage balun. We are only interested in the quadrifilar transformer because we will be using an external ferrite choke on the feedline (which allows us to use the choke for antenna configurations that don't use the voltage balun). Here is a link to instructions on how to wind the quadrifilar transformer:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> http://www.antennalaunchers.com/trb/photos.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Use 16ga enameled wire and a F-125-K toroid. Once the transformer is wound you can mount it on a small piece of plastic with holes drilled for the wires. Attach the wires to each other as per his schematic diagram and PC board photos.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mount the completed toroid into a 3x2x1 inch Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box. Install an SO-239 connector into the bottom of the box. For terminals I used (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts/nuts/wingnuts which are available at a home-improvement store. Label the terminals for Common, 50, 25, and 12 ohms. Attach a short piece of velcro to the back side which allows for mounting.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Antenna Mount &amp; Wire Spools===<br /> The antenna mount uses 1/4-20 hardware. I recommend replacing two of the nuts with wingnuts. Cut an 11 foot piece of Belden 8219 RG58A/U and loop it twice through two Laird LFB187102 ferrites as shown in the photo below. The coax fits tightly and we do not want to stretch it while pulling it through the ferrites so use a non-petroleum lubricant (I used cooking spray). Once this is done you can put UG-175/U reducers on the cable and solder a PL259 connector on each end.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_choke.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is spooled on a (2) Coleman 827E140T colthesline reels (thanks to Richard WA6KYR for finding these). Each Coleman reel comes with 21 feet of nylon cord. Pull all the cord out and cut off 13 feet so there is 8 feet remaining on the spool. Attach 59 1/2 feet of 22AWG insulated hookup wire to the end of the nylon cord. You can do this by stripping the end of the wire and pushing it through the middle of the nylon cord about 1/2 inch from the end, then secure the end of the nylon cord by lightly melting it with a lighter or soldering iron. Now you can reel in the wire. If it gets stuck you can open the reel with a 1/3 turn of the enclosure shell. Attach a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal to the end of the wire.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you are wondering why we use 59 1/2 feet it is because its the only length available that is reasonably close for loading at 75-80m and is not an even 1/2-wavelength multiple of any amateur band from 6m-40m (in fact we can go +/- 3 feet before bumping into one of these multiples. You should be able to roll this out to full length and tune any amateur band from 80m-6m. It also makes a good antenna to use with ALE and our RF-sensing tuner.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Battery===<br /> Each battery pack is made of (4) 40160S LiFePO4 cells (3.2V 16Ah) with a battery management circuit put into a Huggies wipe box.<br /> The battery management circuit sits on top of a plastic board which is an Akro-Mils 40150 (3.3 x 7.7 x 0.1 inch). Mount the batteries in the plastic holders, wire them in series with the bus bars, mount the battery management circuit, then wire it in. I recommend using a 30 amp fuse as pictured. Once this is done attach a 30A (12-14AWG) Powerpole connector with 12-gauge wire. The battery management circuit will charge the battery up to 14.2v before it automatically cuts off. The charger should be at least 14.6v.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each 40160S cell is rated at 3.65V (Max Charge), 3.2V (Nominal), and 2.0V (Discharge cut off).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Max charge current is 5C (80A) and max discharge current is 10C (160A).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cell life is rated at 2000 charge/discharge cycles under normal use.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete battery pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Data Interface===<br /> The data interface consists of audio isolation transformers, an RS232 level converter, and a PTT transistor. The audio circuit is per the &quot;KK7UQ Interface Model II&quot; circuit although I chose not to use the potentiometers and solid state relay in the original design. The original design and documentation can be found here:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://kk7uq.com/html/download/Manual2E.pdf<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The RS232 level converter is per a circuit attributed to OE1RIB.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I decided not to go with the Yaseu CT62 cable because I wanted the ability to use the DTR line for PTT (which is much cleaner for automated CW than keying with serial commands). Don't get me wrong here, I prefer a key, however flexibility was one of the design goals. I modified the level converter circuit to take power from the radio rather than trying to rob it from DTR/CTS with diodes. There is also a DPDT toggle switch on the back of the data interface which is an &quot;OFF&quot; switch (cuts the power from the radio and cuts the PTT line). I looked at off-the-shelf interfaces and most of them were either too big or required power for the audio circuitry.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Use a USB-serial converter if your computer doesn't have a serial port. I recommend using converters with the FTDI chipset for best performance and OS compatibility (I used USBG-RS232-F12 from usbgear.com).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the actual circuit I used to build the data interface:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to leave clearance for the jacks and switches when laying out the components on the PC board.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Velcro attachment<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Mounted to radio<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To connect the interface box to the radio I used a short piece of cat5 network cable wired like this&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT RD W-Br&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT TD W-G&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT + Br-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT GND G-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Data Out12 O-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data In W-Bl&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data PTT W-O&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data GND Bl-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The mini-din connectors go in very tight so beware of non-functioning or partial connections when you do this. Once you get them seated properly they work great and stay in place. Make sure to notch the back of the connector sleeves so the cables can exit at 90 degrees. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In the above photo you will also notice a connector/adapter contraption covered with electrical tape. These UHF right-angle adapters were used because the radio rests on its back side in the pack and we don't want the weight of the radio sitting on a PL259 connector and pinching the coax. All UHF right-angle adapters are not created equal. Most of them are garbage and use a small internal spring to connect the center conductor. The correct part to use is Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U. The adapter connecting the radio to the tuner is two of the Amphenol right-angle adapters connected with a short piece of LMR-600 with the center conductor diameter ground down from 0.176&quot; to 0.157&quot;. The length of the LMR600 and the mounting position of the tuner are critical because you don't want to obstruct the ports on the rear of the radio. As you can see in the photo below, this arrangement makes the back of the radio very compact which helps it fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_back.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Power Wiring===<br /> On the power supply you can add a third powerpole connector which is jumped to ground. When the third connector is also done on the radio side (connected to the radio brown wire) it forces the radio to 20W when plugged into the supply. This is good because our power supply is only rated for 7.5 amps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The power cable is 24 inches of 12-gauge red/black zipcord with a third wire for sensing low-power mode. Additionally it has a 16 inch length of zipcord for the tuner with a 2.5x5.5mm right-angle connector. As with the OEM cable, the 12-gauge cable splits off into two 14-gauge cables at the connector. You will notice that there are no fuses on this cable. I didn't bother because all my power sources for the pack are fused. In hindsight it would be prudent to put 30A fuses on both the positive and negative wires.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Third Powerpole connector for low power sense.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Connector end detail<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Monopod===<br /> The monopod is used to elevate the feedpoint of the dipole or a short vertical antenna. It is carbon fiber, weighs only 19oz, and extends to 68&quot;.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The monopod needs to be shortened to fit into the pack. Going around the perimeter of the small end rod, cut off the bottom half of the top rubber cap. This will allow the rod to collapse about an additional 1/2 inch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The bottom cap can be removed by pushing in the two roll pins with a small center punch. Then, with the rod fully collapsed, you will see there is about 13/16 inch you can saw off the big end without hitting the smaller rods that collapse inside of it. The photo below shows it after the cut.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Radio setup===<br /> Here is how I set mine up&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 7.000mhz<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to on.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 19&quot; (CAT Rate). Set it to 9600.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 29&quot; (CW Sidetone). Set it to 5.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 38&quot; (Dig Mode). Set it to PSK31-U.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 59&quot; (Mic Sel). Set it to RMT if you are using the MH-59A8J mic.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 86&quot; (TX IF Filter). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 2.3<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 50.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 144.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 20.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 446.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 10.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Enable 2.3kc filter for TX:<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push FUNC, rotate select to N, press 2.3 (above B key)<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ==Usage==<br /> The most basic setup is pulling the aluminum pack handle up one notch and attaching the mount/antenna. This can be used for a quick base setup or walking around with the pack on your back. The photo below shows the mount and 2m/70cm whip installed. If you want a somewhat useful counterpoise for 6m/2m/70cm without attaching the counterpoise wire, simply invert the feedline such that the chokes are by the radio instead of by the antenna. This way you can use the coax itself for a counterpoise. Its certainly not the best way to do it but it will work.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each aluminum rod is 18&quot; and you can use one of them by itself for a 2m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rods2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you use both rods with the 2m/70cm whip on top you will have a 6m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> You can use the monopod to elevate the a 6m/2m/70cm antenna. We use the carpal tunnel wrist strap to attach the monopod to the packs aluminum handle. The next photo looks like the leaning tower of Pisa because my first prototype was done with a medium-sized wrist strap. I have since moved to a small-sized strap which makes it stand much straighter. The monopod is good for 6m/2m/70cm verticals and for holding the feedpoint of a dipole. Do not use the monopod with the 8-foot antenna rod and/or the large loading coil as it gets too top heavy to remain stable. The following photo shows the ground radials installed and the choke ferrite near the antenna feedpoint. For a simpler setup you can skip the ground radials and invert the feedline (so the choke ferrites are near the radio) which will make the feedline act as a counterpoise. Yes I know this was said earlier in the article but its worth repeating.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_8.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Detail of antenna mount attached to the monopod pole<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_9.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The collapsible antenna by itself will work as a quarter-wave on 10m (pictured below) and should also tune up ok on 12m. It will work as a quarter-wave on 15m if you add the two aluminum extension rods.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Attaching the coil (tapped on the lowest turn) to the antenna base with the two aluminum rods above it will tune down to 80m. This configuration will have near zero efficiency however it will allow short-range communication on 75/80m while walking around with the pack on your back.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The best vertical configuration for 80m thru 17m is attaching the two rods to the base, putting the coil on top of the rods, then putting the collapsible aluminum antenna rod on top. It is best to tilt the pack over on its wheels and assemble the antenna on the ground.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once its assembled, tilt it up by lifting the aluminum arm on the pack. The weight of the batteries do a good job of keeping the antenna in place.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you want to try 160 meters you can remove the 8 foot whip and connect one of the 59-foot wire spools to the top of the coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a dipole configuration you can strap the balun to the top of the monopod and connect our spools of wire to it. Dipoles work best when they are at least 1/4 wave above the ground. Our feedpoint impedance will typically be much less than 50 ohms because in most cases we will be less than 1/4 wave off the ground. This will be especially noticeable on 40m/80m. Attach one wire to the &quot;C&quot; (common) balun terminal and attach the other wire to either the 12, 25, or 50 ohm terminal depending on which one works best. The wire spools use 3/8 ring terminals so we can optionally connect them directly to the vertical antenna mount if you want to feed a dipole directly without the balun.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One other important thing to note about dipoles is its best to keep the ends up off the ground. There is 8 feet of nylon rope at the end of the spools which can help in getting your wire somewhere it can be secured. In my pack I also keep short plastic tent stakes and short bungee cords which can help in some situations.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_10.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> There are a few other odds &amp; ends I keep in the pack. The PL-259 center to ring terminal adapter is for using the voltage balun with the vertical antenna. The Powerpole &quot;Y&quot; cable is for running the AC adapter or solar charger while using the radio. The short 3/8-24 bolt is for attaching a dipole wire directly to the antenna mount or to the top of the coil. There are also two 8-foot stereo cables for the data adapter and a 10-foot serial cable (not pictured). (I chose 8-10' cables to keep the computer RF a little ways away from the radio/antenna). At the bottom is the usb/serial adapter and on the bottom right are short velcro cable ties for attaching the feedline to the monopole and/or aluminum pack handle.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_misc.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is how it all fits into the pack<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_11.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete pack with both batteries and the computer weighs 35 lbs.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The weight can be substantially reduced by removing the spare battery, AC adapter, computer (if you don't need it), and any antenna parts you don't plan on using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In case you are wondering where the CW key/paddles are, I'm still working on finding a solution that works well with this portable setup.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Two that have been recommended are the Mini Paddle from Milestone Technologies and the Traveler Light from Begali.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Parts &amp; Prices==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> $799 FT857D w/YSK857<br /> $95 TCXO-9<br /> $82 MH-59A8J DTMF mic (also needed for direct freq entry)<br /> <br /> $120 W4RT2.3khz ssb filter<br /> $169 Z-11pro2<br /> <br /> $14 IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter (ebay)<br /> $2 bridge rectifier KBPC5010 (ebay)<br /> <br /> $144 (8) 16ah 40160s lifepo4 $24/ea (bmsbattery.com or manzanitamicro.com)<br /> $3 (8) 40160S battery holders 0.40/ea<br /> $4 (8) 40160S bus bar connectors 0.50/ea<br /> $80 battery shipping<br /> <br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> <br /> $97 (2) 30A Battery Management PCB http://www.batteryspace.com/pcbprotectioncircuitmodulefor4cells128vlifepo4batterypackat30alimited.aspx<br /> <br /> $11 USB to serial converter http://www.usbgear.com/computer_cable_details.cfm?sku=USBG-RS232-F12&amp;cats=199&amp;catid=482%2C199%2C601%2C461<br /> <br /> $8 3/8X24 Thread Mirror Mount: Wilson 901104<br /> $5 (20') Belden 8219 (RG58A/U) <br /> $3 (4) Amphenol 83-185-RFX (UG-175 reducer)<br /> $20 (4) Amphenol 83-822 (PL259)<br /> $10 shipping (theantennafarm.com)<br /> <br /> $79 Jansport Driver 8 TN89-008 UPC 757969203361 Wheeled Backpack (buy.com)<br /> <br /> $6 dual-band (2/440) whip with 3/8x24 mount (hamstick EDBW-1, Opek DB-1, or Workman DB-1) <br /> $4 (2) WORKKW2000A or CONXPARTSA (this is the power cord and connector pins)<br /> $3 (6 feet) Red &amp; Black DC wire 12 GA<br /> $9 shipping (k1cra.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (3') LMR-600 (showmecables.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 nuts (7/16&quot; head)<br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts<br /> $2 (8) 1/4&quot;-20 wingnuts<br /> $9 (10') 4&quot; drainpipe (we need one 7 3/4&quot; piece)<br /> $4 (2) 4&quot; drainpipe cap (home depot)<br /> <br /> $20 (5) littelfuse FHA30 12AWG inline fuse holder<br /> $3 (1) 5-pack of ATO 7.5 fuse (drillspot.com)<br /> <br /> $3 4' 14 gauge cable (for short part of radio power connector) (.62/ft)<br /> $1 4' 18 gauge cable (for battery sense +/- to pcb, low power wire on power cable) (.31/ft)<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (22-18) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $4 (1) 1/4&quot; (16-14) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (12-10) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $10 shipping (parts-express.com)<br /> <br /> (1) DB9F mouser 156-1309 0.80<br /> (4) BC546A mouser 512-BC546A 0.10<br /> (2) 5.6k 1/4w mouser 588-OD562JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (3) 10k 1/4w mouser 588-OD103JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (1) 3.5mm 3-pin plug (cw) (2 wires used) mouser 568-NYS231BG 1.69 (for cw jack)<br /> (1) 8-pin mini-din (cat) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2608 1.49<br /> (1) 6-pin mini-din (data) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2606 1.36<br /> (2) 600ohm 1:1 transformer mouser 42TL016-RC 1.66<br /> (2) 51 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD510JE 0.42<br /> (1) 1uf cap mouser 5989-100V1.0-F 0.71<br /> (1) .0047uf cap mouser 140-50P5-472K-RC 50v ceramic disc 0.12<br /> (1) 100 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD101JE 0.42 carbon comp 5%<br /> (1) 1k 1/4w mouser 588-OD102JE 0.42<br /> (1) board mouser 854-PR1593K $4.10 2.6 x 2.6<br /> (1) box mouser 546-1593KBK $2.88 (box is 2.6 x 2.6 x 1.1)<br /> (2) 2.2k resistor 1/2w carbon comp 5% mouser 588-OF222JE (1/4w mouser 588-OD222JE 0.42 not avail)<br /> (4) PL259 right angle Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U Mouser 523-83-1AP $14.70/ea<br /> (1) 2.5x5.5mm right angle plug (24AWG) power plug for tuner mouser 171-3216-EX $1.04/ea<br /> (2) ferrites - mouser 875-LFB187102-000 3.03/ea 3/4&quot; OD .400&quot; ID 1.125&quot; long (3 turns RG58 = 1000 ohm impedance @ 1-5mhz)<br /> (2) mouser 526-WH22-00-100 100' 22awg copper 7-strand hookup wire black nteinc.com $19 (use p/n 03-100 for orange) insulation OD 0.060&quot;<br /> (2) 3.5mm stereo jacks 502-35RAPC3BV4 2.73<br /> $112 total<br /> $12 shipping (mouser.com)<br /> <br /> $8 (1) 14-pack 3/8 ring terminal 16-14AWG (JT&amp;T 2011H - amazon.com)<br /> $18 (2) 8ft 3.5mm stereo cables (mediabridge - amazon.com)<br /> $3 21/64 (.3281&quot;) drill bit for 3/8-24 threads (amazon.com)<br /> $28 3' Aluminum 6061-T6 Seamless Round Tubing, WW-T 700/6, 1/2&quot; OD, 1/4&quot; ID, 1/8&quot; Wall, 36&quot; Length (amazon.com)<br /> $65 Opteka CFM300 68&quot; 5 Section 8x Carbon Fiber Monopod (amazon.com)<br /> $209 (1) PowerFilm F15-1200 20W solar panel 10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6 1 lb (amazon.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (4) EZ-Hook XM (digi-key 461-1004-ND)<br /> <br /> $2 Akro-Mils plastic dividers (Akro-Mils 40150 wasserstrom.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (8) 3/8-24 Jam Nuts 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (2) 3/8-24 Hex Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $10 (5) 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (10) 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer 316 Stainless Steel<br /> $7 shipping (fastener-warehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $7 (5') 1/4&quot; schedule 80 PVC pipe (usplastic.com)<br /> <br /> $14 (2) coleman 827E140T colthesline reel (coleman.com)<br /> <br /> $58 AT-271A/PRC antenna (ebay) OR $58 Voile Tourlight Avalanche Probe (8 foot) (voile-usa.com)<br /> Alternatively there are threaded snow probes at: http://us-warehouse.genuineguidegear.com/collections/probes/products/solid-probes<br /> <br /> $2 (2) 6&quot; tent stakes (rei.com)<br /> $2 (1) 4-pack of 10&quot; bungee cords (rei.com)<br /> $8 tax/shipping (rei.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) F-125-K Toroid Core 1.25&quot; 250-300 permeability low loss ferrite 1-30 mhz (theaudioguru.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (1) 1/4 lb Wire, 16ga (0.05&quot;) enameled (we need 4 feet for toroid) (allspectrum.com or jameco.com)<br /> <br /> $20 (1) 79-87283 DonJoy COMFORTFORM WRIST support-Small right (expressorthopedics.com - warning, it takes them a month to ship it)<br /> <br /> $8 Cables To Go 52030 - 6ft DB9 M/F All Lines Extension Cable Black (nextwarehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) 85085K8 25-pack nylon edge trim .065 gap width 3/16 opening, 15/64 height, 12 3/4 long<br /> $23 (1) 8871K71 80' (1 lb) spool .064&quot; (14ga) tin coated copper wire (spool says Arcor 14AWG)<br /> $2 (1) 91187A202 1.5&quot; 5/16-18 RHT stainless stud (or you can order a 10-pack for $4.55 with part number 95412A587)<br /> $10 (2) 95412A659 5-pack of 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud<br /> $9 tax/shipping (mcmaster.com)<br /> <br /> ==========<br /> $2518 approximate cost<br /> <br /> <br /> $? (1) stickyback velcro (attach tuner to radio mount)<br /> <br /> $? (1) velcro wire ties (attach coax to antenna mast)<br /> <br /> $? (1) 3/8-24 tap<br /> $? (1) 5/16-18 tap<br /> $? (1) Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box (for balun) 3x2x1&quot;<br /> <br /> $? (4) 30A (12-14AWG) red/black powerpole connector (1 for radio, 2 for batteries, 1 for AC/DC power supply)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==More Information==<br /> Here are some websites with great ideas for building backpack radios:<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://ec1cw.blogspot.com/2012/12/my-ft-857d-manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/321107979094<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_22/665730_Build_your_own_HF_manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://hfpack.com/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://pinztrek.com/radio/hfpack/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.dbbear.com/k0emt/projant/hfpack/</div> Mon, 04 Aug 2014 14:07:29 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:W7KI_Manpack_Radio http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/W7KI_Manpack_Radio <p>Rich:&#32;/* The Antenna */</p> <hr /> <div>[[File:FT857_and_tuner_in_pack.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;This article details how I set up a HF/VHF/UHF manpack radio.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> ==Overview==<br /> ===Design goals===<br /> Radio RF Output:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Minimum of 20W, preferable to have optional 50W+ available if needed<br /> Radio Frequency coverage:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : HF, 6 meters, 2 meters, and 70cm<br /> Radio Modes:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : FM/SSB/CW/PSK<br /> Radio receive current:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : preferably less than 700mA<br /> Tuner:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : 10-500ohm minimum, preferable little to no idle current<br /> Battery:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : sufficient to handle a weekend without recharging<br /> Power:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Battery, AC, or solar&lt;br&gt;<br /> Antenna:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Vertical or dipole with optional voltage balun<br /> PC:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Small netbook capable of digital modes<br /> Size:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Everything fits within a pack suitable for airplane carry-on (21x14x10&quot;).<br /> All items:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Weight as minimal as possible !<br /> Cost:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : $2500 neighborhood<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Radio===<br /> Here is a quick rundown of the radios I considered:&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Military radios==== <br /> : I looked at the PRC-104, PRC-132, PRC-138, PRC-320, PRC-1099, PRC-2000, and AEG SE-6861.<br /> : All of them are good radios. Only problem is I want HF/6/2/440 so I'm stuck<br /> : with looking at amateur radios.<br /> <br /> ====Vertex VX-1210====<br /> : This is a commercial radio ($1400+, 7.1lb w/batt, rx: 500mA, tx: 3A/5W, 5A/20W)<br /> : Very tempting but is HF only. Has option for internal autotuner and can be<br /> : set up for VFO operation. Battery is 14.4v 4AH.<br /> <br /> ====Mobat Micom 3 Pathfinder====<br /> : This is a 25W commercial radio. Excessive cost for this project. Otherwise a great radio !<br /> <br /> ====Outback radios (QMAC, Barrett, Codan)====<br /> : QMAC HF90 excessive cost &amp; no longer made, Barrett 940 too heavy (18.5lbs w/tuner battery)<br /> : Barrett 2040, Codan 2110 excessive cost.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-817ND====<br /> : Portable amateur radio ($600, 2.6lb, 8-16v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 2A/5W)<br /> : Tempting, and would pair nicely with the LDG Z-817 or Elecraft T1 tuner.<br /> : Only problem is I want 20W+. This could be accomplished with a Tokyo High Power HL-45B<br /> : amp ($400, 3.4 lbs, 8.5A/45W, 160-6m) + LDG Z-817H tuner.<br /> : This is a viable combination and has the benefit of low RX current.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC703+====<br /> : Amateur radio (discontinued, 4.4lb, 9-15.8v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 3A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Nice radio, big and easily readable display, built in autotuner. Wish it did 2m/440<br /> : like its bigger brother (IC-706).<br /> <br /> ====Elecraft KX3====<br /> : Portable amateur radio (new to market, 1.5lb, 8-14v(?), rx: 150-???mA, tx: ?A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Great display and control layout located on what would normally be considered the &quot;top&quot;<br /> : of the radio which gives ample room compared to other radios. Built in autotuner. CW paddles<br /> : right on front of the radio. I would have liked to see a little more than 10W however its<br /> : certainly a reasonable and usable amount of power (and better than 5W). Has option for <br /> : an external KXPA100 100W amp and KXAT100 tuner. Overall it is an exciting product and I <br /> : probably would have bought one if I wasn't looking to have 2m/440 in the same radio.<br /> : I don't know if it supports CTCSS for 10m FM repeaters and CTCSS/DCS for 6m FM repeaters.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC706MK2G====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 5.5lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1800-2000mA, tx: 20A/100W)<br /> : RX current way too high, VHF frontend easily overloads. Nice display as with the IC703<br /> : above. The RX current is a deal breaker for battery ops. <br /> <br /> ====Icom IC7000====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($1200, 5.1lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1300-1600mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : Nice radio. RX current better than IC706 but still a little on the high side for battery ops.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-897D====<br /> : Mobile/portable amateur radio ($900, 8.6lb, 11.7-15.9v, rx: 600-1000mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : HF/50 MHz:5 watts = 4.0-4.7 amps 10 watts = 5.3-6.4 amps 25 watts = 7.3-9.2 amps 50 watts = 10.6-12.9 amps<br /> : 144 MHz: 5 watts = 3.4 amps 10 watts = 4.2 amps 25 watts = 6.3 amps 50 watts = 9.4 amps<br /> : 420 MHz: 5 watts = 4.2 amps 10 watts = 5.6 amps 20 watts = 8.7 amps<br /> :<br /> : Designed for field ops and has room for internal batteries (13.2v, 9AH) however the batteries<br /> : add an additional 6.5lbs to a radio which is already heavy at 8.6lbs. One option is to run your<br /> : own external battery which gives you room to install an internal 120V power supply. Overall<br /> : I really like this radio but its ruggedness will cost you in weight. You can get the FT-857D<br /> : (sacrificing the 897's rugged case and internal battery space) and save 4lbs on your back.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-857D====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 4.6lb, 12.4-15.2v,<br /> : rx: 600-1000mA (spec) 650-700mA (green/red backlight) 590mA (backlight off)<br /> : tx: 2A/5W 5A/15W 22A/100W)<br /> : Unlike the FT-897D above, this radio does not come with a TCXO. By the time you spend $100 on<br /> : the TCXO you end up with about the same radio as the FT-897D for the same price. Comparing the<br /> : FT-857D to the FT-897D has some pluses: 4lbs lighter, detachable head, and easier to mount mobile.<br /> : The minuses are we don't get the rugged case and battery space. I don't think either of these<br /> : minuses will matter as the radio and batteries will end up in a pack. One other thing to note is<br /> : both the 857 and 897 will automatically limit the radio to 20W when running on battery power<br /> : (by grounding the brown wire on the power connector).<br /> : Spec says voltage is 12.4-15.2, manual says 11.73-15.87.<br /> : The 857's signal will start sounding bad at about 11.75v.<br /> <br /> Given everything above it came down to deciding between the FT-857D and FT-897D.&lt;br&gt;<br /> I chose the FT-857D because its 4lbs lighter than the FT-897D. Every pound counts when backpacking !&lt;br&gt;<br /> The radio is best equipped with: tcxo-9, keypad mic, (2) W4RT/inrad.net filters.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Tuner===<br /> For honorable mention we have the long-discontinued Kenwood AT-130 which is a very small 80-10m(+WARC)&lt;br&gt;<br /> manual tuner (6 x 2.4 x 6.3 inches, 3.5 lbs.). For field ops I prefer a small autotuner. Yaesu makes the&lt;br&gt;<br /> FC-30 ($170, 17-150 ohms, 3.1 x 1.8 x 10.2 in, 2.2 lbs) however its 17-150 ohm tuning range is quite&lt;br&gt;<br /> narrow compared to the LDG product line.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the breakdown of the LDG products I looked at. All of them have latching relays.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> : $200 LDG YT-100 for 857/897 100w 4-800 ohm 7 x 7 x 2 1.5lbs<br /> : $200 LDG AT-897+ for 857/897 100w 6-800 ohm 11.5 x 3.25 x 1.5 2.0lbs<br /> : $160 Z100+ ? 125w 6-800 ohm 5.5 x 5.5 x 1.5 1 lb w/o batts<br /> : $170 Z11pro2 6-1000 ohm 7.7 x 5.0 x 1.5 1.5lb w/o batts<br /> &lt;br&gt; <br /> I ended up going with the Z11pro2 as it can autotune based on RF sense which keeps the CAT and ACC ports free. This is good because we&lt;br&gt;<br /> need both ports for our data interface. Another bonus of RF sense tuning is it makes the radio PC-ALE capable provided the antenna is&lt;br&gt;<br /> tunable on whatever ALE frequencies are to be used.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device on the left is the data/soundcard interface&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[File:FT857_and_tuner.jpg]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Battery===<br /> The following text describes how to build a battery pack. If you do not want to build this battery pack then you can buy one already built. For example you can look up &quot;ZIPPY Flightmax 8400mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack&quot; which currently sells for about $75. You will need to find a suitable charger for it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> I initially considered using 11 Accupower NiMH low-discharge &quot;D&quot; cells (10aH, 1.25v, 145g ea.)&lt;br&gt;<br /> This would give us 13.75v, 10aH at 3.5lb for about $110.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After more research I went with (8) 40160S LiFePO4 batteries (16AH/ea). This project really only needs 4 of these<br /> batteries however I opted to build two battery packs. 4 of these batteries in series gives you around 13 volts.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The 40160S 16AH battery is no longer being sold. The manufacturer has replaced it with the 40152S 15AH battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Paired with each battery pack is a circuit which protects from overcharge/overdischarge/overcurrent. It also keeps the batteries balanced<br /> while charging. After a long search for a suitable lightweight container I found the 4-battery pack fits perfectly into a &quot;Huggies&quot;<br /> baby wipe plastic box. I cut a small slot in the box for a short piece of velcro which holds the lid closed. The complete pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If you intend on taking your backpack radio on a commercial aircraft, keep in mind there are restrictions on high capacity lithium ion batteries. If you believe this will be a problem you can build a pack from 11 NiMH D cells or use a pre-made NiMH RC pack. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Notice the top door works great for the powerpole.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is a view of the internals. The protection circuit board is on the top.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The AC adapter/charger===<br /> I wanted enough beef for the radio to do 20W off the adapter. I ended up getting IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter<br /> for about $14 off ebay. It is relatively small and weighs 0.4 lb. I run it through a bridge rectifier which reduces the voltage to 14.8V which is suitable for operating the radio and charging the battery pack. Of course running DC through a bridge rectifier only uses two of the four diodes however it was an inexpensive solution which is much easier than standalone diodes to mount to the cable/fuse.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I found that the battery pack can draw up to 8A during charging so I used a 10A fuse on the power supply. Yes, I know the power supply is only rated at 7.5A and putting a 10A fuse on it is not good practice. So far it hasn't been a problem. During charging the bridge rectifier can get quite hot so make sure it is on a non-flammable surface. The obvious solution to all this would be a series current limiting resistor which is something I'll look into when I get the time.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> For now I am charging the battery pack with a small smart charger (Noco Genius G3500) which is set for a standard 12V battery at a 3.5A charge rate. It just so happens that its output voltage on this setting is just right for charging the LiFePO4 battery. The Noco Genius is a handy little charger as it is also good for charging and topping off car batteries, AGM batteries, 12V 7AH brick batteries, etc. and it will float the batteries without overcharging them. Another nice thing about this charger is its small enough to fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ac_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Solar Panel===<br /> PowerFilm F15-1200 20W (10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6&quot; 1 lb )&lt;br&gt;<br /> Nice compact and light panel but a little pricey at $10/watt. I would have gone with their 30W panel but it was even more overpriced.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the solar panel<br /> [[File:W7ki_solar_panel.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Computer===<br /> EEEPC 1000h. Small battery-efficient netbook with 10&quot; screen. Used it because I had it on hand. Any netbook would probably do ok so<br /> long as it has mic/headphone jacks. One bonus of this particular computer is you can feed it 12VDC direct.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the computer<br /> [[File:W7ki_netbook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Data Interface===<br /> Homemade. Nothing fancy, just some audio isolation transformers, a level converter, and a PTT transistor.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The data interface and the tuner are attached to the mobile mounting bracket with velcro. Note how the mobile bracket is angled such that the front of the tuner is slightly elevated. This was done to give some clearance to the radio speaker and also helps to direct the audio out of the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_data_interface1.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Antenna===<br /> I looked at a variety of compact antennas (Outbacker Joey, Outbacker Stealth Plus, ATX-W38 walkabout, ATX-DHP, and a handful<br /> of others). It was difficult to find anything that would collapse to under 18 inches (requirement for the pack I'm using). It was probably just as well<br /> since many &quot;portable&quot; antennas are helical which I personally despise.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My original intent was to buy a &quot;Buddi&quot; product and evaluate how it worked in a vertical configuration. The only issue was whether their 80 meter coil would fit in the pack. I emailed them multiple times asking the dimensions of the coil but unfortunately all of my emails were ignored. This probably speaks volumes as to how they handle issues after a sale so I thought it best not to do business with them until their customer communication improves.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Of all the pre-made antennas I found two that appear to be worthwhile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One is the SuperAntenna MP1B SuperStick which is a good solution as it collapses to 12 inches and weighs under 2 pounds. When I first wrote this article their company had no products available which I believe was due to a transition in ownership. Their products are now available again and I plan on trying one out. I would buy the MP1B antenna, TM1 mount, and optionally MC60 coil for 60 meters and MC80 coil for 80 meters. A properly adjusted SuperAntenna requires no tuner however you need to use a correct length ground radial. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The other is the JPC-7 product line which can be found at http://www.108mhz.com/ham-antenna-c-59.html or on ebay. All three versions of the JPC-7 are lightweight and collapse to a small size.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The text past this point describes how to build an antenna/coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I ended up using a military AT271-A/PRC antenna. It is a 7 section antenna with a 3/8-24 base that extends to 113.5 inches and collapses to 17 inches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> It has an optional 8 inch spring (AB-129/PR) which I am not currently using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:At271a.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As an alternative I found an 8.5' collapsible aluminum pole made for measuring snowpacks and after some tinkering it worked like a charm. There is a threaded version which may work better (listed at the end of this article in the Parts Sources section).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pole_antenna.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Either of these antennas is very usable on HF when paired with a couple of 18&quot; aluminum extender rods and a large tapped coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_big_coil.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> Obviously running a huge coil with a short antenna is about as worthless as a short helical so its important to remember to use as much whip or longwire as you can if you<br /> are less than 1/4 wave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a horizontal option I built a tapped voltage balun which attaches to a vertical extension arm and connects to two spools of wire.<br /> [[File:W7ki_horiz_setup.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;The wire spools can also be used as a counterpoise for vertical configurations.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the bottom is a carbon fiber camera monopod which we use as a vertical extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the top is a carpal tunnel wrist strap which is used for attaching the monopod extension arm to the pack aluminum extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is wound on Coleman camping clothesline spools.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Another HF antenna option is to build the St. Louis Vertical: http://www.amqrp.org/projects/stluisvert/STLV%20Project.html&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For VHF/UHF I have a 17&quot; dual-band antenna. For VHF only you can also put one of the 18&quot; aluminum rods onto the 1&quot; antenna mount.&lt;br&gt;<br /> 6 meters can be done with the 17&quot; antenna on top of both 18&quot; rods.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Pack===<br /> I looked at dozens of packs before settling on the Jansport Driver 8. Most other packs were either oversized and/or too heavy.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My reasoning for a 21x14x10&quot; size limit is so you can carry this on a commercial airplane if you are traveling. You certainly wouldn't want<br /> to check this as luggage as it would probably get destroyed by handling or stolen.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Two main things I liked about the Driver 8 are the wheels and the telescoping arm. The telescoping arm is wonderful because it is very sturdy<br /> aluminum which allows you to securely attach an antenna to it. This is great for manpack operations if you want the antenna up while you are<br /> walking around with the pack on your back. It also works great for fixed operations as the pack itself can be used as an antenna base.<br /> The wheels not only give your back a break where smooth surfaces are available, they also give you the ability to easily lay down the pack when assembling a long antenna. Its like having a mini fold over tower.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The wheels are inline skate wheels and have a very low ground clearance. It will roll fine inside buildings or on a paved sidewalk. The wheels will not work on a trail. This is unfortunate as it is much easier to pull 35 lbs on wheels than to heft it on your back. One possible solution to this is to run a 1/2 inch rod (or thread stock?) along the bottom of the pack and install a pair of 10&quot; x 1.75 lightweight plastic wheels. I would use Martin Wheel part number 110 wheels because they come with metal ball bearings.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:w7ki_pack_radio.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Construction and Setup==<br /> A complete materials and sources list is at the end of this article.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Extension Rods and Antenna===<br /> To make the aluminum extension rods you need a 3 foot piece of aluminum rod. Cut the rod into 3 pieces, 2 of them will be 17 inches long and the third piece will be the remaining 2 inches.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take a 21/64 inch drill bit and drill about 1.5 inches into both ends of the 17 inch rods. Be careful to drill straight. Once this is done tap threads into both ends with a 3/8-24 tap. Tapping threads into aluminum generates a tremendous amount of heat so remember to tap slowly and use an oil lubricant. Right after tapping these rods I bumped one of them with my arm and got a very nasty burn.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the tapping is done thread a 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud into both ends of the rods. Then, for each rod, put a 3/8-24 jam nut over the stud on one end and put a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut over the stud on the other end. When you are done it should look like the picture below.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> This section deals with constructing the antenna if you chose not to buy an AT-271 antenna:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now grab the remaining 2 inch piece of aluminum rod. Drill one end 1 inch deep with a size F (.2443 inch) bit then drill the other end 1 inch deep with the 21/64 inch drill bit you used for the other rods. Tap 5/16-18 threads into the size F end and 3/8-24 threads into the 21/64 end.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take the aluminum snowpack pole, remove the lanyard string, push in the lower release spring button and shove it up the tube a couple inches, and tap the bottom for 5/16-18 threads. The two photos below show the start and finish of tapping the threads. I seriously do not recommend using vise-grips as shown in the photos. The antenna deforms very easily. It would be much better to lightly use a vise which can distribute the grip better with much less crush force. Again, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CRUSH OR DEFORM THE TUBE. I darn near destroyed the prototype using vise-grips.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Next we take a 1.5 inch 5/16-18 stud and thread half of it into the antenna. This is generally difficult to do so I recommend tightening two 5/16-18 nuts against each other onto the stud and use the outer nut with a wrench. Once the stud is threaded into the antenna you can thread the 2 inch aluminum rod onto the stud, then thread a 3/8-24 stud into the other end of the rod. Put a 3/8-24 jam nut onto the exposed threads. What you have done here is built a 5/16-18 to 3/8-24 thread adapter. The photo below shows what the finished product should look like.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rod_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The next step is to modify the antenna to make it conductive. The anodized surfaces do not conduct electricity so you need to take some sandpaper and sand out the inside of the bottom of each rod (about 3/4 inch should do). Another issue is the tapered inserts which are crimped into the top of the rods. These don't conduct either so you need to lightly bond them with an arc weld. This should be done with a MIG or TIG welder. Remember to sand the surfaces first, including the entire tapered section. I cheesed mine by using two truck batteries, a pair of jumper cables, and some real thin aluminum wire. Some people refer to this as hillbilly arc welding. Please don't do this unless you know the risks, know what you are doing, and you are using appropriate eye protection. Verify the end to end continuity of the antenna with an ohmmeter when you are done. Here is what mine looked like when it was done.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_hillbilly_weld.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The final step is to flatten out the pointed tip of the antenna rod. You can do this with a grinder or file.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Coil===<br /> The coil is made from a 7 3/4 inch piece of 4 inch diameter drainpipe with a drainpipe cap on each end. To make room for more coil turns we cut 1 3/8 inch off the end of the drainpipe cap. You need to cut two end caps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Locate the center of each cap, tap the center with a center punch or nail, drill a 1/8&quot; pilot hole, then drill in again with a 3/8&quot; bit.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now we take a piece of 1/4 inch schedule 80 pvc pipe and drill/tap it for 3/8-24 threads the same way you did the aluminum rods (except please don't use lubricating oil). Its important to use schedule 80 pipe as it has the correct inside diameter for tapping threads. The pipe should be about 7 1/2 inches long and later you might have to make some slight length adjustments for fit. Once your threads are tapped you can thread a 1.5 inch 3/8-24 stud into each end then put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer over the end (see photo below). Put one end into an end cap, put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer on the outside of the end cap, stack one 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal on top of the washer, and secure it with a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut stacked on top of the ring terminal.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Put the other end cap on. On the outside stack a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer, a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal, and a 3/8-24 jam nut.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to cover up any holes in the drainpipe with a square of duct tape.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To make the coil, glue 4 pieces of .065 Nylon Edge Trim as shown in the photo (credit to Phil AD5X for finding this edge trim). When cutting them to length, remember to offset each one to correctly accommodate a spirally-wound coil. Once this is done, drill a .065&quot; diagonal hole from the edge of the cap through the top of each cap (see photo), thread the wire through the hole and wind the coil with .064&quot; (14AWG) tin coated copper wire. Remember to keep tension on the coil or else it will wind loosely. The wire is stiff and doesn't come off the coil perfectly so there will be some manual coil alignment/straightening to do after the coil is wound. Once the coil is wound, put the ends thorough the 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminals, then cut &amp; solder. Be careful of heat damage to the plastic while soldering. Its usually best to loosen the end nuts prior to soldering as it will conduct less heat away from the ring terminals.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_end.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The coil tap is an EZ-Hook XM attached to a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal with an 11 inch piece of 22-gauge 7-strand insulated hookup wire. Attach the ring terminal above the coil ring terminal as shown in the photo.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_tap.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The EZ-Hook XM works great for 17AWG wire however its a little small for our 14AWG coil. The hook can be slightly adjusted with needlenose pliers to fit the 14AWG wire. The picture below shows the modified hook profile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ezhook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As built, the coil specs out like this: 7&quot; length, 4.25&quot; dia, 50 turns, 14ga .063 (spaced) = 129uH&lt;br&gt;<br /> Its a little overkill on the size &amp; inductance but it gives a lot of flexibility with short antennas.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Balun===<br /> The balun is based on a design by WB6ZQZ. His design appears to be a bifilar current balun in series with a quadrifilar voltage balun. We are only interested in the quadrifilar transformer because we will be using an external ferrite choke on the feedline (which allows us to use the choke for antenna configurations that don't use the voltage balun). Here is a link to instructions on how to wind the quadrifilar transformer:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> http://www.antennalaunchers.com/trb/photos.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Use 16ga enameled wire and a F-125-K toroid. Once the transformer is wound you can mount it on a small piece of plastic with holes drilled for the wires. Attach the wires to each other as per his schematic diagram and PC board photos.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mount the completed toroid into a 3x2x1 inch Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box. Install an SO-239 connector into the bottom of the box. For terminals I used (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts/nuts/wingnuts which are available at a home-improvement store. Label the terminals for Common, 50, 25, and 12 ohms. Attach a short piece of velcro to the back side which allows for mounting.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Antenna Mount &amp; Wire Spools===<br /> The antenna mount uses 1/4-20 hardware. I recommend replacing two of the nuts with wingnuts. Cut an 11 foot piece of Belden 8219 RG58A/U and loop it twice through two Laird LFB187102 ferrites as shown in the photo below. The coax fits tightly and we do not want to stretch it while pulling it through the ferrites so use a non-petroleum lubricant (I used cooking spray). Once this is done you can put UG-175/U reducers on the cable and solder a PL259 connector on each end.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_choke.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is spooled on a (2) Coleman 827E140T colthesline reels (thanks to Richard WA6KYR for finding these). Each Coleman reel comes with 21 feet of nylon cord. Pull all the cord out and cut off 13 feet so there is 8 feet remaining on the spool. Attach 59 1/2 feet of 22AWG insulated hookup wire to the end of the nylon cord. You can do this by stripping the end of the wire and pushing it through the middle of the nylon cord about 1/2 inch from the end, then secure the end of the nylon cord by lightly melting it with a lighter or soldering iron. Now you can reel in the wire. If it gets stuck you can open the reel with a 1/3 turn of the enclosure shell. Attach a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal to the end of the wire.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you are wondering why we use 59 1/2 feet it is because its the only length available that is reasonably close for loading at 75-80m and is not an even 1/2-wavelength multiple of any amateur band from 6m-40m (in fact we can go +/- 3 feet before bumping into one of these multiples. You should be able to roll this out to full length and tune any amateur band from 80m-6m. It also makes a good antenna to use with ALE and our RF-sensing tuner.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Battery===<br /> Each battery pack is made of (4) 40160S LiFePO4 cells (3.2V 16Ah) with a battery management circuit put into a Huggies wipe box.<br /> The battery management circuit sits on top of a plastic board which is an Akro-Mils 40150 (3.3 x 7.7 x 0.1 inch). Mount the batteries in the plastic holders, wire them in series with the bus bars, mount the battery management circuit, then wire it in. I recommend using a 30 amp fuse as pictured. Once this is done attach a 30A (12-14AWG) Powerpole connector with 12-gauge wire. The battery management circuit will charge the battery up to 14.2v before it automatically cuts off. The charger should be at least 14.6v.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each 40160S cell is rated at 3.65V (Max Charge), 3.2V (Nominal), and 2.0V (Discharge cut off).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Max charge current is 5C (80A) and max discharge current is 10C (160A).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cell life is rated at 2000 charge/discharge cycles under normal use.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete battery pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Data Interface===<br /> The data interface consists of audio isolation transformers, an RS232 level converter, and a PTT transistor. The audio circuit is per the &quot;KK7UQ Interface Model II&quot; circuit although I chose not to use the potentiometers and solid state relay in the original design. The original design and documentation can be found here:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://kk7uq.com/html/download/Manual2E.pdf<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The RS232 level converter is per a circuit attributed to OE1RIB.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I decided not to go with the Yaseu CT62 cable because I wanted the ability to use the DTR line for PTT (which is much cleaner for automated CW than keying with serial commands). Don't get me wrong here, I prefer a key, however flexibility was one of the design goals. I modified the level converter circuit to take power from the radio rather than trying to rob it from DTR/CTS with diodes. There is also a DPDT toggle switch on the back of the data interface which is an &quot;OFF&quot; switch (cuts the power from the radio and cuts the PTT line). I looked at off-the-shelf interfaces and most of them were either too big or required power for the audio circuitry.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Use a USB-serial converter if your computer doesn't have a serial port. I recommend using converters with the FTDI chipset for best performance and OS compatibility (I used USBG-RS232-F12 from usbgear.com).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the actual circuit I used to build the data interface:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to leave clearance for the jacks and switches when laying out the components on the PC board.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Velcro attachment<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Mounted to radio<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To connect the interface box to the radio I used a short piece of cat5 network cable wired like this&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT RD W-Br&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT TD W-G&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT + Br-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT GND G-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Data Out12 O-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data In W-Bl&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data PTT W-O&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data GND Bl-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The mini-din connectors go in very tight so beware of non-functioning or partial connections when you do this. Once you get them seated properly they work great and stay in place. Make sure to notch the back of the connector sleeves so the cables can exit at 90 degrees. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In the above photo you will also notice a connector/adapter contraption covered with electrical tape. These UHF right-angle adapters were used because the radio rests on its back side in the pack and we don't want the weight of the radio sitting on a PL259 connector and pinching the coax. All UHF right-angle adapters are not created equal. Most of them are garbage and use a small internal spring to connect the center conductor. The correct part to use is Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U. The adapter connecting the radio to the tuner is two of the Amphenol right-angle adapters connected with a short piece of LMR-600 with the center conductor diameter ground down from 0.176&quot; to 0.157&quot;. The length of the LMR600 and the mounting position of the tuner are critical because you don't want to obstruct the ports on the rear of the radio. As you can see in the photo below, this arrangement makes the back of the radio very compact which helps it fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_back.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Power Wiring===<br /> On the power supply you can add a third powerpole connector which is jumped to ground. When the third connector is also done on the radio side (connected to the radio brown wire) it forces the radio to 20W when plugged into the supply. This is good because our power supply is only rated for 7.5 amps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The power cable is 24 inches of 12-gauge red/black zipcord with a third wire for sensing low-power mode. Additionally it has a 16 inch length of zipcord for the tuner with a 2.5x5.5mm right-angle connector. As with the OEM cable, the 12-gauge cable splits off into two 14-gauge cables at the connector. You will notice that there are no fuses on this cable. I didn't bother because all my power sources for the pack are fused. In hindsight it would be prudent to put 30A fuses on both the positive and negative wires.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Third Powerpole connector for low power sense.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Connector end detail<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Monopod===<br /> The monopod is used to elevate the feedpoint of the dipole or a short vertical antenna. It is carbon fiber, weighs only 19oz, and extends to 68&quot;.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The monopod needs to be shortened to fit into the pack. Going around the perimeter of the small end rod, cut off the bottom half of the top rubber cap. This will allow the rod to collapse about an additional 1/2 inch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The bottom cap can be removed by pushing in the two roll pins with a small center punch. Then, with the rod fully collapsed, you will see there is about 13/16 inch you can saw off the big end without hitting the smaller rods that collapse inside of it. The photo below shows it after the cut.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Radio setup===<br /> Here is how I set mine up&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 7.000mhz<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to on.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 19&quot; (CAT Rate). Set it to 9600.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 29&quot; (CW Sidetone). Set it to 5.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 38&quot; (Dig Mode). Set it to PSK31-U.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 59&quot; (Mic Sel). Set it to RMT if you are using the MH-59A8J mic.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 86&quot; (TX IF Filter). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 2.3<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 50.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 144.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 20.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 446.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 10.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Enable 2.3kc filter for TX:<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push FUNC, rotate select to N, press 2.3 (above B key)<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ==Usage==<br /> The most basic setup is pulling the aluminum pack handle up one notch and attaching the mount/antenna. This can be used for a quick base setup or walking around with the pack on your back. The photo below shows the mount and 2m/70cm whip installed. If you want a somewhat useful counterpoise for 6m/2m/70cm without attaching the counterpoise wire, simply invert the feedline such that the chokes are by the radio instead of by the antenna. This way you can use the coax itself for a counterpoise. Its certainly not the best way to do it but it will work.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each aluminum rod is 18&quot; and you can use one of them by itself for a 2m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rods2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you use both rods with the 2m/70cm whip on top you will have a 6m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> You can use the monopod to elevate the a 6m/2m/70cm antenna. We use the carpal tunnel wrist strap to attach the monopod to the packs aluminum handle. The next photo looks like the leaning tower of Pisa because my first prototype was done with a medium-sized wrist strap. I have since moved to a small-sized strap which makes it stand much straighter. The monopod is good for 6m/2m/70cm verticals and for holding the feedpoint of a dipole. Do not use the monopod with the 8-foot antenna rod and/or the large loading coil as it gets too top heavy to remain stable. The following photo shows the ground radials installed and the choke ferrite near the antenna feedpoint. For a simpler setup you can skip the ground radials and invert the feedline (so the choke ferrites are near the radio) which will make the feedline act as a counterpoise. Yes I know this was said earlier in the article but its worth repeating.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_8.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Detail of antenna mount attached to the monopod pole<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_9.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The collapsible antenna by itself will work as a quarter-wave on 10m (pictured below) and should also tune up ok on 12m. It will work as a quarter-wave on 15m if you add the two aluminum extension rods.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Attaching the coil (tapped on the lowest turn) to the antenna base with the two aluminum rods above it will tune down to 80m. This configuration will have near zero efficiency however it will allow short-range communication on 75/80m while walking around with the pack on your back.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The best vertical configuration for 80m thru 17m is attaching the two rods to the base, putting the coil on top of the rods, then putting the collapsible aluminum antenna rod on top. It is best to tilt the pack over on its wheels and assemble the antenna on the ground.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once its assembled, tilt it up by lifting the aluminum arm on the pack. The weight of the batteries do a good job of keeping the antenna in place.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you want to try 160 meters you can remove the 8 foot whip and connect one of the 59-foot wire spools to the top of the coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a dipole configuration you can strap the balun to the top of the monopod and connect our spools of wire to it. Dipoles work best when they are at least 1/4 wave above the ground. Our feedpoint impedance will typically be much less than 50 ohms because in most cases we will be less than 1/4 wave off the ground. This will be especially noticeable on 40m/80m. Attach one wire to the &quot;C&quot; (common) balun terminal and attach the other wire to either the 12, 25, or 50 ohm terminal depending on which one works best. The wire spools use 3/8 ring terminals so we can optionally connect them directly to the vertical antenna mount if you want to feed a dipole directly without the balun.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One other important thing to note about dipoles is its best to keep the ends up off the ground. There is 8 feet of nylon rope at the end of the spools which can help in getting your wire somewhere it can be secured. In my pack I also keep short plastic tent stakes and short bungee cords which can help in some situations.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_10.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> There are a few other odds &amp; ends I keep in the pack. The PL-259 center to ring terminal adapter is for using the voltage balun with the vertical antenna. The Powerpole &quot;Y&quot; cable is for running the AC adapter or solar charger while using the radio. The short 3/8-24 bolt is for attaching a dipole wire directly to the antenna mount or to the top of the coil. There are also two 8-foot stereo cables for the data adapter and a 10-foot serial cable (not pictured). (I chose 8-10' cables to keep the computer RF a little ways away from the radio/antenna). At the bottom is the usb/serial adapter and on the bottom right are short velcro cable ties for attaching the feedline to the monopole and/or aluminum pack handle.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_misc.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is how it all fits into the pack<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_11.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete pack with both batteries and the computer weighs 35 lbs.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The weight can be substantially reduced by removing the spare battery, AC adapter, computer (if you don't need it), and any antenna parts you don't plan on using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In case you are wondering where the CW key/paddles are, I'm still working on finding a solution that works well with this portable setup.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Two that have been recommended are the Mini Paddle from Milestone Technologies and the Traveler Light from Begali.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Parts &amp; Prices==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> $799 FT857D w/YSK857<br /> $95 TCXO-9<br /> $82 MH-59A8J DTMF mic (also needed for direct freq entry)<br /> <br /> $120 W4RT2.3khz ssb filter<br /> $169 Z-11pro2<br /> <br /> $14 IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter (ebay)<br /> $2 bridge rectifier KBPC5010 (ebay)<br /> <br /> $144 (8) 16ah 40160s lifepo4 $24/ea (bmsbattery.com or manzanitamicro.com)<br /> $3 (8) 40160S battery holders 0.40/ea<br /> $4 (8) 40160S bus bar connectors 0.50/ea<br /> $80 battery shipping<br /> <br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> <br /> $97 (2) 30A Battery Management PCB http://www.batteryspace.com/pcbprotectioncircuitmodulefor4cells128vlifepo4batterypackat30alimited.aspx<br /> <br /> $11 USB to serial converter http://www.usbgear.com/computer_cable_details.cfm?sku=USBG-RS232-F12&amp;cats=199&amp;catid=482%2C199%2C601%2C461<br /> <br /> $8 3/8X24 Thread Mirror Mount: Wilson 901104<br /> $5 (20') Belden 8219 (RG58A/U) <br /> $3 (4) Amphenol 83-185-RFX (UG-175 reducer)<br /> $20 (4) Amphenol 83-822 (PL259)<br /> $10 shipping (theantennafarm.com)<br /> <br /> $79 Jansport Driver 8 TN89-008 UPC 757969203361 Wheeled Backpack (buy.com)<br /> <br /> $6 dual-band (2/440) whip with 3/8x24 mount (hamstick EDBW-1, Opek DB-1, or Workman DB-1) <br /> $4 (2) WORKKW2000A or CONXPARTSA (this is the power cord and connector pins)<br /> $3 (6 feet) Red &amp; Black DC wire 12 GA<br /> $9 shipping (k1cra.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (3') LMR-600 (showmecables.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 nuts (7/16&quot; head)<br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts<br /> $2 (8) 1/4&quot;-20 wingnuts<br /> $9 (10') 4&quot; drainpipe (we need one 7 3/4&quot; piece)<br /> $4 (2) 4&quot; drainpipe cap (home depot)<br /> <br /> $20 (5) littelfuse FHA30 12AWG inline fuse holder<br /> $3 (1) 5-pack of ATO 7.5 fuse (drillspot.com)<br /> <br /> $3 4' 14 gauge cable (for short part of radio power connector) (.62/ft)<br /> $1 4' 18 gauge cable (for battery sense +/- to pcb, low power wire on power cable) (.31/ft)<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (22-18) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $4 (1) 1/4&quot; (16-14) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (12-10) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $10 shipping (parts-express.com)<br /> <br /> (1) DB9F mouser 156-1309 0.80<br /> (4) BC546A mouser 512-BC546A 0.10<br /> (2) 5.6k 1/4w mouser 588-OD562JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (3) 10k 1/4w mouser 588-OD103JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (1) 3.5mm 3-pin plug (cw) (2 wires used) mouser 568-NYS231BG 1.69 (for cw jack)<br /> (1) 8-pin mini-din (cat) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2608 1.49<br /> (1) 6-pin mini-din (data) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2606 1.36<br /> (2) 600ohm 1:1 transformer mouser 42TL016-RC 1.66<br /> (2) 51 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD510JE 0.42<br /> (1) 1uf cap mouser 5989-100V1.0-F 0.71<br /> (1) .0047uf cap mouser 140-50P5-472K-RC 50v ceramic disc 0.12<br /> (1) 100 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD101JE 0.42 carbon comp 5%<br /> (1) 1k 1/4w mouser 588-OD102JE 0.42<br /> (1) board mouser 854-PR1593K $4.10 2.6 x 2.6<br /> (1) box mouser 546-1593KBK $2.88 (box is 2.6 x 2.6 x 1.1)<br /> (2) 2.2k resistor 1/2w carbon comp 5% mouser 588-OF222JE (1/4w mouser 588-OD222JE 0.42 not avail)<br /> (4) PL259 right angle Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U Mouser 523-83-1AP $14.70/ea<br /> (1) 2.5x5.5mm right angle plug (24AWG) power plug for tuner mouser 171-3216-EX $1.04/ea<br /> (2) ferrites - mouser 875-LFB187102-000 3.03/ea 3/4&quot; OD .400&quot; ID 1.125&quot; long (3 turns RG58 = 1000 ohm impedance @ 1-5mhz)<br /> (2) mouser 526-WH22-00-100 100' 22awg copper 7-strand hookup wire black nteinc.com $19 (use p/n 03-100 for orange) insulation OD 0.060&quot;<br /> (2) 3.5mm stereo jacks 502-35RAPC3BV4 2.73<br /> $112 total<br /> $12 shipping (mouser.com)<br /> <br /> $8 (1) 14-pack 3/8 ring terminal 16-14AWG (JT&amp;T 2011H - amazon.com)<br /> $18 (2) 8ft 3.5mm stereo cables (mediabridge - amazon.com)<br /> $3 21/64 (.3281&quot;) drill bit for 3/8-24 threads (amazon.com)<br /> $28 3' Aluminum 6061-T6 Seamless Round Tubing, WW-T 700/6, 1/2&quot; OD, 1/4&quot; ID, 1/8&quot; Wall, 36&quot; Length (amazon.com)<br /> $65 Opteka CFM300 68&quot; 5 Section 8x Carbon Fiber Monopod (amazon.com)<br /> $209 (1) PowerFilm F15-1200 20W solar panel 10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6 1 lb (amazon.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (4) EZ-Hook XM (digi-key 461-1004-ND)<br /> <br /> $2 Akro-Mils plastic dividers (Akro-Mils 40150 wasserstrom.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (8) 3/8-24 Jam Nuts 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (2) 3/8-24 Hex Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $10 (5) 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (10) 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer 316 Stainless Steel<br /> $7 shipping (fastener-warehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $7 (5') 1/4&quot; schedule 80 PVC pipe (usplastic.com)<br /> <br /> $14 (2) coleman 827E140T colthesline reel (coleman.com)<br /> <br /> $58 AT-271A/PRC antenna (ebay) OR $58 Voile Tourlight Avalanche Probe (8 foot) (voile-usa.com)<br /> Alternatively there are threaded snow probes at: http://us-warehouse.genuineguidegear.com/collections/probes/products/solid-probes<br /> <br /> $2 (2) 6&quot; tent stakes (rei.com)<br /> $2 (1) 4-pack of 10&quot; bungee cords (rei.com)<br /> $8 tax/shipping (rei.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) F-125-K Toroid Core 1.25&quot; 250-300 permeability low loss ferrite 1-30 mhz (theaudioguru.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (1) 1/4 lb Wire, 16ga (0.05&quot;) enameled (we need 4 feet for toroid) (allspectrum.com or jameco.com)<br /> <br /> $20 (1) 79-87283 DonJoy COMFORTFORM WRIST support-Small right (expressorthopedics.com - warning, it takes them a month to ship it)<br /> <br /> $8 Cables To Go 52030 - 6ft DB9 M/F All Lines Extension Cable Black (nextwarehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) 85085K8 25-pack nylon edge trim .065 gap width 3/16 opening, 15/64 height, 12 3/4 long<br /> $23 (1) 8871K71 80' (1 lb) spool .064&quot; (14ga) tin coated copper wire (spool says Arcor 14AWG)<br /> $2 (1) 91187A202 1.5&quot; 5/16-18 RHT stainless stud (or you can order a 10-pack for $4.55 with part number 95412A587)<br /> $10 (2) 95412A659 5-pack of 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud<br /> $9 tax/shipping (mcmaster.com)<br /> <br /> ==========<br /> $2518 approximate cost<br /> <br /> <br /> $? (1) stickyback velcro (attach tuner to radio mount)<br /> <br /> $? (1) velcro wire ties (attach coax to antenna mast)<br /> <br /> $? (1) 3/8-24 tap<br /> $? (1) 5/16-18 tap<br /> $? (1) Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box (for balun) 3x2x1&quot;<br /> <br /> $? (4) 30A (12-14AWG) red/black powerpole connector (1 for radio, 2 for batteries, 1 for AC/DC power supply)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==More Information==<br /> Here are some websites with great ideas for building backpack radios:<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://ec1cw.blogspot.com/2012/12/my-ft-857d-manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/321107979094<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_22/665730_Build_your_own_HF_manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://hfpack.com/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://pinztrek.com/radio/hfpack/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.dbbear.com/k0emt/projant/hfpack/</div> Mon, 04 Aug 2014 03:10:07 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:W7KI_Manpack_Radio http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/W7KI_Manpack_Radio <p>Rich:&#32;/* The Antenna */</p> <hr /> <div>[[File:FT857_and_tuner_in_pack.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;This article details how I set up a HF/VHF/UHF manpack radio.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> ==Overview==<br /> ===Design goals===<br /> Radio RF Output:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Minimum of 20W, preferable to have optional 50W+ available if needed<br /> Radio Frequency coverage:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : HF, 6 meters, 2 meters, and 70cm<br /> Radio Modes:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : FM/SSB/CW/PSK<br /> Radio receive current:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : preferably less than 700mA<br /> Tuner:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : 10-500ohm minimum, preferable little to no idle current<br /> Battery:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : sufficient to handle a weekend without recharging<br /> Power:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Battery, AC, or solar&lt;br&gt;<br /> Antenna:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Vertical or dipole with optional voltage balun<br /> PC:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Small netbook capable of digital modes<br /> Size:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Everything fits within a pack suitable for airplane carry-on (21x14x10&quot;).<br /> All items:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Weight as minimal as possible !<br /> Cost:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : $2500 neighborhood<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Radio===<br /> Here is a quick rundown of the radios I considered:&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Military radios==== <br /> : I looked at the PRC-104, PRC-132, PRC-138, PRC-320, PRC-1099, PRC-2000, and AEG SE-6861.<br /> : All of them are good radios. Only problem is I want HF/6/2/440 so I'm stuck<br /> : with looking at amateur radios.<br /> <br /> ====Vertex VX-1210====<br /> : This is a commercial radio ($1400+, 7.1lb w/batt, rx: 500mA, tx: 3A/5W, 5A/20W)<br /> : Very tempting but is HF only. Has option for internal autotuner and can be<br /> : set up for VFO operation. Battery is 14.4v 4AH.<br /> <br /> ====Mobat Micom 3 Pathfinder====<br /> : This is a 25W commercial radio. Excessive cost for this project. Otherwise a great radio !<br /> <br /> ====Outback radios (QMAC, Barrett, Codan)====<br /> : QMAC HF90 excessive cost &amp; no longer made, Barrett 940 too heavy (18.5lbs w/tuner battery)<br /> : Barrett 2040, Codan 2110 excessive cost.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-817ND====<br /> : Portable amateur radio ($600, 2.6lb, 8-16v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 2A/5W)<br /> : Tempting, and would pair nicely with the LDG Z-817 or Elecraft T1 tuner.<br /> : Only problem is I want 20W+. This could be accomplished with a Tokyo High Power HL-45B<br /> : amp ($400, 3.4 lbs, 8.5A/45W, 160-6m) + LDG Z-817H tuner.<br /> : This is a viable combination and has the benefit of low RX current.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC703+====<br /> : Amateur radio (discontinued, 4.4lb, 9-15.8v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 3A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Nice radio, big and easily readable display, built in autotuner. Wish it did 2m/440<br /> : like its bigger brother (IC-706).<br /> <br /> ====Elecraft KX3====<br /> : Portable amateur radio (new to market, 1.5lb, 8-14v(?), rx: 150-???mA, tx: ?A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Great display and control layout located on what would normally be considered the &quot;top&quot;<br /> : of the radio which gives ample room compared to other radios. Built in autotuner. CW paddles<br /> : right on front of the radio. I would have liked to see a little more than 10W however its<br /> : certainly a reasonable and usable amount of power (and better than 5W). Has option for <br /> : an external KXPA100 100W amp and KXAT100 tuner. Overall it is an exciting product and I <br /> : probably would have bought one if I wasn't looking to have 2m/440 in the same radio.<br /> : I don't know if it supports CTCSS for 10m FM repeaters and CTCSS/DCS for 6m FM repeaters.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC706MK2G====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 5.5lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1800-2000mA, tx: 20A/100W)<br /> : RX current way too high, VHF frontend easily overloads. Nice display as with the IC703<br /> : above. The RX current is a deal breaker for battery ops. <br /> <br /> ====Icom IC7000====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($1200, 5.1lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1300-1600mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : Nice radio. RX current better than IC706 but still a little on the high side for battery ops.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-897D====<br /> : Mobile/portable amateur radio ($900, 8.6lb, 11.7-15.9v, rx: 600-1000mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : HF/50 MHz:5 watts = 4.0-4.7 amps 10 watts = 5.3-6.4 amps 25 watts = 7.3-9.2 amps 50 watts = 10.6-12.9 amps<br /> : 144 MHz: 5 watts = 3.4 amps 10 watts = 4.2 amps 25 watts = 6.3 amps 50 watts = 9.4 amps<br /> : 420 MHz: 5 watts = 4.2 amps 10 watts = 5.6 amps 20 watts = 8.7 amps<br /> :<br /> : Designed for field ops and has room for internal batteries (13.2v, 9AH) however the batteries<br /> : add an additional 6.5lbs to a radio which is already heavy at 8.6lbs. One option is to run your<br /> : own external battery which gives you room to install an internal 120V power supply. Overall<br /> : I really like this radio but its ruggedness will cost you in weight. You can get the FT-857D<br /> : (sacrificing the 897's rugged case and internal battery space) and save 4lbs on your back.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-857D====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 4.6lb, 12.4-15.2v,<br /> : rx: 600-1000mA (spec) 650-700mA (green/red backlight) 590mA (backlight off)<br /> : tx: 2A/5W 5A/15W 22A/100W)<br /> : Unlike the FT-897D above, this radio does not come with a TCXO. By the time you spend $100 on<br /> : the TCXO you end up with about the same radio as the FT-897D for the same price. Comparing the<br /> : FT-857D to the FT-897D has some pluses: 4lbs lighter, detachable head, and easier to mount mobile.<br /> : The minuses are we don't get the rugged case and battery space. I don't think either of these<br /> : minuses will matter as the radio and batteries will end up in a pack. One other thing to note is<br /> : both the 857 and 897 will automatically limit the radio to 20W when running on battery power<br /> : (by grounding the brown wire on the power connector).<br /> : Spec says voltage is 12.4-15.2, manual says 11.73-15.87.<br /> : The 857's signal will start sounding bad at about 11.75v.<br /> <br /> Given everything above it came down to deciding between the FT-857D and FT-897D.&lt;br&gt;<br /> I chose the FT-857D because its 4lbs lighter than the FT-897D. Every pound counts when backpacking !&lt;br&gt;<br /> The radio is best equipped with: tcxo-9, keypad mic, (2) W4RT/inrad.net filters.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Tuner===<br /> For honorable mention we have the long-discontinued Kenwood AT-130 which is a very small 80-10m(+WARC)&lt;br&gt;<br /> manual tuner (6 x 2.4 x 6.3 inches, 3.5 lbs.). For field ops I prefer a small autotuner. Yaesu makes the&lt;br&gt;<br /> FC-30 ($170, 17-150 ohms, 3.1 x 1.8 x 10.2 in, 2.2 lbs) however its 17-150 ohm tuning range is quite&lt;br&gt;<br /> narrow compared to the LDG product line.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the breakdown of the LDG products I looked at. All of them have latching relays.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> : $200 LDG YT-100 for 857/897 100w 4-800 ohm 7 x 7 x 2 1.5lbs<br /> : $200 LDG AT-897+ for 857/897 100w 6-800 ohm 11.5 x 3.25 x 1.5 2.0lbs<br /> : $160 Z100+ ? 125w 6-800 ohm 5.5 x 5.5 x 1.5 1 lb w/o batts<br /> : $170 Z11pro2 6-1000 ohm 7.7 x 5.0 x 1.5 1.5lb w/o batts<br /> &lt;br&gt; <br /> I ended up going with the Z11pro2 as it can autotune based on RF sense which keeps the CAT and ACC ports free. This is good because we&lt;br&gt;<br /> need both ports for our data interface. Another bonus of RF sense tuning is it makes the radio PC-ALE capable provided the antenna is&lt;br&gt;<br /> tunable on whatever ALE frequencies are to be used.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device on the left is the data/soundcard interface&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[File:FT857_and_tuner.jpg]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Battery===<br /> The following text describes how to build a battery pack. If you do not want to build this battery pack then you can buy one already built. For example you can look up &quot;ZIPPY Flightmax 8400mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack&quot; which currently sells for about $75. You will need to find a suitable charger for it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> I initially considered using 11 Accupower NiMH low-discharge &quot;D&quot; cells (10aH, 1.25v, 145g ea.)&lt;br&gt;<br /> This would give us 13.75v, 10aH at 3.5lb for about $110.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After more research I went with (8) 40160S LiFePO4 batteries (16AH/ea). This project really only needs 4 of these<br /> batteries however I opted to build two battery packs. 4 of these batteries in series gives you around 13 volts.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The 40160S 16AH battery is no longer being sold. The manufacturer has replaced it with the 40152S 15AH battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Paired with each battery pack is a circuit which protects from overcharge/overdischarge/overcurrent. It also keeps the batteries balanced<br /> while charging. After a long search for a suitable lightweight container I found the 4-battery pack fits perfectly into a &quot;Huggies&quot;<br /> baby wipe plastic box. I cut a small slot in the box for a short piece of velcro which holds the lid closed. The complete pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If you intend on taking your backpack radio on a commercial aircraft, keep in mind there are restrictions on high capacity lithium ion batteries. If you believe this will be a problem you can build a pack from 11 NiMH D cells or use a pre-made NiMH RC pack. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Notice the top door works great for the powerpole.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is a view of the internals. The protection circuit board is on the top.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The AC adapter/charger===<br /> I wanted enough beef for the radio to do 20W off the adapter. I ended up getting IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter<br /> for about $14 off ebay. It is relatively small and weighs 0.4 lb. I run it through a bridge rectifier which reduces the voltage to 14.8V which is suitable for operating the radio and charging the battery pack. Of course running DC through a bridge rectifier only uses two of the four diodes however it was an inexpensive solution which is much easier than standalone diodes to mount to the cable/fuse.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I found that the battery pack can draw up to 8A during charging so I used a 10A fuse on the power supply. Yes, I know the power supply is only rated at 7.5A and putting a 10A fuse on it is not good practice. So far it hasn't been a problem. During charging the bridge rectifier can get quite hot so make sure it is on a non-flammable surface. The obvious solution to all this would be a series current limiting resistor which is something I'll look into when I get the time.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> For now I am charging the battery pack with a small smart charger (Noco Genius G3500) which is set for a standard 12V battery at a 3.5A charge rate. It just so happens that its output voltage on this setting is just right for charging the LiFePO4 battery. The Noco Genius is a handy little charger as it is also good for charging and topping off car batteries, AGM batteries, 12V 7AH brick batteries, etc. and it will float the batteries without overcharging them. Another nice thing about this charger is its small enough to fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ac_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Solar Panel===<br /> PowerFilm F15-1200 20W (10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6&quot; 1 lb )&lt;br&gt;<br /> Nice compact and light panel but a little pricey at $10/watt. I would have gone with their 30W panel but it was even more overpriced.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the solar panel<br /> [[File:W7ki_solar_panel.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Computer===<br /> EEEPC 1000h. Small battery-efficient netbook with 10&quot; screen. Used it because I had it on hand. Any netbook would probably do ok so<br /> long as it has mic/headphone jacks. One bonus of this particular computer is you can feed it 12VDC direct.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the computer<br /> [[File:W7ki_netbook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Data Interface===<br /> Homemade. Nothing fancy, just some audio isolation transformers, a level converter, and a PTT transistor.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The data interface and the tuner are attached to the mobile mounting bracket with velcro. Note how the mobile bracket is angled such that the front of the tuner is slightly elevated. This was done to give some clearance to the radio speaker and also helps to direct the audio out of the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_data_interface1.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Antenna===<br /> I looked at a variety of compact antennas (Outbacker Joey, Outbacker Stealth Plus, ATX-W38 walkabout, ATX-DHP, and a handful<br /> of others). It was difficult to find anything that would collapse to under 18 inches (requirement for the pack I'm using). It was probably just as well<br /> since many &quot;portable&quot; antennas are helical which I personally despise.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My original intent was to buy a &quot;Buddi&quot; product and evaluate how it worked in a vertical configuration. The only issue was whether their 80 meter coil would fit in the pack. I emailed them multiple times asking the dimensions of the coil but unfortunately all of my emails were ignored. This probably speaks volumes as to how they handle issues after a sale so I thought it best not to do business with them until their customer communication improves.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Of all the pre-made antennas I found two that appear to be worthwhile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One is the SuperAntenna MP1B SuperStick which is a good solution as it collapses to 12 inches and weighs under 2 pounds. When I first wrote this article their company had no products available which I believe was due to a transition in ownership. Their products are now available again and I plan on trying one out. I would buy the MP1B antenna, TM1 mount, and optionally MC60 coil for 60 meters and MC80 coil for 80 meters. A properly adjusted SuperAntenna requires no tuner however you need to use a correct length ground radial. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The other is the JPC-7 product line which can be found at http://www.108mhz.com/ham-antenna-c-59.html or on ebay. All three versions are lightweight and collapse to a small size.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The text past this point describes how to build an antenna/coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I ended up using a military AT271-A/PRC antenna. It is a 7 section antenna with a 3/8-24 base that extends to 113.5 inches and collapses to 17 inches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> It has an optional 8 inch spring (AB-129/PR) which I am not currently using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:At271a.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As an alternative I found an 8.5' collapsible aluminum pole made for measuring snowpacks and after some tinkering it worked like a charm. There is a threaded version which may work better (listed at the end of this article in the Parts Sources section).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pole_antenna.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Either of these antennas is very usable on HF when paired with a couple of 18&quot; aluminum extender rods and a large tapped coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_big_coil.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> Obviously running a huge coil with a short antenna is about as worthless as a short helical so its important to remember to use as much whip or longwire as you can if you<br /> are less than 1/4 wave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a horizontal option I built a tapped voltage balun which attaches to a vertical extension arm and connects to two spools of wire.<br /> [[File:W7ki_horiz_setup.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;The wire spools can also be used as a counterpoise for vertical configurations.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the bottom is a carbon fiber camera monopod which we use as a vertical extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the top is a carpal tunnel wrist strap which is used for attaching the monopod extension arm to the pack aluminum extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is wound on Coleman camping clothesline spools.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Another HF antenna option is to build the St. Louis Vertical: http://www.amqrp.org/projects/stluisvert/STLV%20Project.html&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For VHF/UHF I have a 17&quot; dual-band antenna. For VHF only you can also put one of the 18&quot; aluminum rods onto the 1&quot; antenna mount.&lt;br&gt;<br /> 6 meters can be done with the 17&quot; antenna on top of both 18&quot; rods.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Pack===<br /> I looked at dozens of packs before settling on the Jansport Driver 8. Most other packs were either oversized and/or too heavy.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My reasoning for a 21x14x10&quot; size limit is so you can carry this on a commercial airplane if you are traveling. You certainly wouldn't want<br /> to check this as luggage as it would probably get destroyed by handling or stolen.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Two main things I liked about the Driver 8 are the wheels and the telescoping arm. The telescoping arm is wonderful because it is very sturdy<br /> aluminum which allows you to securely attach an antenna to it. This is great for manpack operations if you want the antenna up while you are<br /> walking around with the pack on your back. It also works great for fixed operations as the pack itself can be used as an antenna base.<br /> The wheels not only give your back a break where smooth surfaces are available, they also give you the ability to easily lay down the pack when assembling a long antenna. Its like having a mini fold over tower.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The wheels are inline skate wheels and have a very low ground clearance. It will roll fine inside buildings or on a paved sidewalk. The wheels will not work on a trail. This is unfortunate as it is much easier to pull 35 lbs on wheels than to heft it on your back. One possible solution to this is to run a 1/2 inch rod (or thread stock?) along the bottom of the pack and install a pair of 10&quot; x 1.75 lightweight plastic wheels. I would use Martin Wheel part number 110 wheels because they come with metal ball bearings.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:w7ki_pack_radio.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Construction and Setup==<br /> A complete materials and sources list is at the end of this article.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Extension Rods and Antenna===<br /> To make the aluminum extension rods you need a 3 foot piece of aluminum rod. Cut the rod into 3 pieces, 2 of them will be 17 inches long and the third piece will be the remaining 2 inches.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take a 21/64 inch drill bit and drill about 1.5 inches into both ends of the 17 inch rods. Be careful to drill straight. Once this is done tap threads into both ends with a 3/8-24 tap. Tapping threads into aluminum generates a tremendous amount of heat so remember to tap slowly and use an oil lubricant. Right after tapping these rods I bumped one of them with my arm and got a very nasty burn.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the tapping is done thread a 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud into both ends of the rods. Then, for each rod, put a 3/8-24 jam nut over the stud on one end and put a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut over the stud on the other end. When you are done it should look like the picture below.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> This section deals with constructing the antenna if you chose not to buy an AT-271 antenna:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now grab the remaining 2 inch piece of aluminum rod. Drill one end 1 inch deep with a size F (.2443 inch) bit then drill the other end 1 inch deep with the 21/64 inch drill bit you used for the other rods. Tap 5/16-18 threads into the size F end and 3/8-24 threads into the 21/64 end.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take the aluminum snowpack pole, remove the lanyard string, push in the lower release spring button and shove it up the tube a couple inches, and tap the bottom for 5/16-18 threads. The two photos below show the start and finish of tapping the threads. I seriously do not recommend using vise-grips as shown in the photos. The antenna deforms very easily. It would be much better to lightly use a vise which can distribute the grip better with much less crush force. Again, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CRUSH OR DEFORM THE TUBE. I darn near destroyed the prototype using vise-grips.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Next we take a 1.5 inch 5/16-18 stud and thread half of it into the antenna. This is generally difficult to do so I recommend tightening two 5/16-18 nuts against each other onto the stud and use the outer nut with a wrench. Once the stud is threaded into the antenna you can thread the 2 inch aluminum rod onto the stud, then thread a 3/8-24 stud into the other end of the rod. Put a 3/8-24 jam nut onto the exposed threads. What you have done here is built a 5/16-18 to 3/8-24 thread adapter. The photo below shows what the finished product should look like.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rod_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The next step is to modify the antenna to make it conductive. The anodized surfaces do not conduct electricity so you need to take some sandpaper and sand out the inside of the bottom of each rod (about 3/4 inch should do). Another issue is the tapered inserts which are crimped into the top of the rods. These don't conduct either so you need to lightly bond them with an arc weld. This should be done with a MIG or TIG welder. Remember to sand the surfaces first, including the entire tapered section. I cheesed mine by using two truck batteries, a pair of jumper cables, and some real thin aluminum wire. Some people refer to this as hillbilly arc welding. Please don't do this unless you know the risks, know what you are doing, and you are using appropriate eye protection. Verify the end to end continuity of the antenna with an ohmmeter when you are done. Here is what mine looked like when it was done.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_hillbilly_weld.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The final step is to flatten out the pointed tip of the antenna rod. You can do this with a grinder or file.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Coil===<br /> The coil is made from a 7 3/4 inch piece of 4 inch diameter drainpipe with a drainpipe cap on each end. To make room for more coil turns we cut 1 3/8 inch off the end of the drainpipe cap. You need to cut two end caps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Locate the center of each cap, tap the center with a center punch or nail, drill a 1/8&quot; pilot hole, then drill in again with a 3/8&quot; bit.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now we take a piece of 1/4 inch schedule 80 pvc pipe and drill/tap it for 3/8-24 threads the same way you did the aluminum rods (except please don't use lubricating oil). Its important to use schedule 80 pipe as it has the correct inside diameter for tapping threads. The pipe should be about 7 1/2 inches long and later you might have to make some slight length adjustments for fit. Once your threads are tapped you can thread a 1.5 inch 3/8-24 stud into each end then put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer over the end (see photo below). Put one end into an end cap, put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer on the outside of the end cap, stack one 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal on top of the washer, and secure it with a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut stacked on top of the ring terminal.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Put the other end cap on. On the outside stack a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer, a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal, and a 3/8-24 jam nut.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to cover up any holes in the drainpipe with a square of duct tape.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To make the coil, glue 4 pieces of .065 Nylon Edge Trim as shown in the photo (credit to Phil AD5X for finding this edge trim). When cutting them to length, remember to offset each one to correctly accommodate a spirally-wound coil. Once this is done, drill a .065&quot; diagonal hole from the edge of the cap through the top of each cap (see photo), thread the wire through the hole and wind the coil with .064&quot; (14AWG) tin coated copper wire. Remember to keep tension on the coil or else it will wind loosely. The wire is stiff and doesn't come off the coil perfectly so there will be some manual coil alignment/straightening to do after the coil is wound. Once the coil is wound, put the ends thorough the 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminals, then cut &amp; solder. Be careful of heat damage to the plastic while soldering. Its usually best to loosen the end nuts prior to soldering as it will conduct less heat away from the ring terminals.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_end.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The coil tap is an EZ-Hook XM attached to a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal with an 11 inch piece of 22-gauge 7-strand insulated hookup wire. Attach the ring terminal above the coil ring terminal as shown in the photo.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_tap.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The EZ-Hook XM works great for 17AWG wire however its a little small for our 14AWG coil. The hook can be slightly adjusted with needlenose pliers to fit the 14AWG wire. The picture below shows the modified hook profile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ezhook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As built, the coil specs out like this: 7&quot; length, 4.25&quot; dia, 50 turns, 14ga .063 (spaced) = 129uH&lt;br&gt;<br /> Its a little overkill on the size &amp; inductance but it gives a lot of flexibility with short antennas.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Balun===<br /> The balun is based on a design by WB6ZQZ. His design appears to be a bifilar current balun in series with a quadrifilar voltage balun. We are only interested in the quadrifilar transformer because we will be using an external ferrite choke on the feedline (which allows us to use the choke for antenna configurations that don't use the voltage balun). Here is a link to instructions on how to wind the quadrifilar transformer:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> http://www.antennalaunchers.com/trb/photos.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Use 16ga enameled wire and a F-125-K toroid. Once the transformer is wound you can mount it on a small piece of plastic with holes drilled for the wires. Attach the wires to each other as per his schematic diagram and PC board photos.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mount the completed toroid into a 3x2x1 inch Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box. Install an SO-239 connector into the bottom of the box. For terminals I used (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts/nuts/wingnuts which are available at a home-improvement store. Label the terminals for Common, 50, 25, and 12 ohms. Attach a short piece of velcro to the back side which allows for mounting.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Antenna Mount &amp; Wire Spools===<br /> The antenna mount uses 1/4-20 hardware. I recommend replacing two of the nuts with wingnuts. Cut an 11 foot piece of Belden 8219 RG58A/U and loop it twice through two Laird LFB187102 ferrites as shown in the photo below. The coax fits tightly and we do not want to stretch it while pulling it through the ferrites so use a non-petroleum lubricant (I used cooking spray). Once this is done you can put UG-175/U reducers on the cable and solder a PL259 connector on each end.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_choke.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is spooled on a (2) Coleman 827E140T colthesline reels (thanks to Richard WA6KYR for finding these). Each Coleman reel comes with 21 feet of nylon cord. Pull all the cord out and cut off 13 feet so there is 8 feet remaining on the spool. Attach 59 1/2 feet of 22AWG insulated hookup wire to the end of the nylon cord. You can do this by stripping the end of the wire and pushing it through the middle of the nylon cord about 1/2 inch from the end, then secure the end of the nylon cord by lightly melting it with a lighter or soldering iron. Now you can reel in the wire. If it gets stuck you can open the reel with a 1/3 turn of the enclosure shell. Attach a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal to the end of the wire.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you are wondering why we use 59 1/2 feet it is because its the only length available that is reasonably close for loading at 75-80m and is not an even 1/2-wavelength multiple of any amateur band from 6m-40m (in fact we can go +/- 3 feet before bumping into one of these multiples. You should be able to roll this out to full length and tune any amateur band from 80m-6m. It also makes a good antenna to use with ALE and our RF-sensing tuner.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Battery===<br /> Each battery pack is made of (4) 40160S LiFePO4 cells (3.2V 16Ah) with a battery management circuit put into a Huggies wipe box.<br /> The battery management circuit sits on top of a plastic board which is an Akro-Mils 40150 (3.3 x 7.7 x 0.1 inch). Mount the batteries in the plastic holders, wire them in series with the bus bars, mount the battery management circuit, then wire it in. I recommend using a 30 amp fuse as pictured. Once this is done attach a 30A (12-14AWG) Powerpole connector with 12-gauge wire. The battery management circuit will charge the battery up to 14.2v before it automatically cuts off. The charger should be at least 14.6v.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each 40160S cell is rated at 3.65V (Max Charge), 3.2V (Nominal), and 2.0V (Discharge cut off).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Max charge current is 5C (80A) and max discharge current is 10C (160A).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cell life is rated at 2000 charge/discharge cycles under normal use.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete battery pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Data Interface===<br /> The data interface consists of audio isolation transformers, an RS232 level converter, and a PTT transistor. The audio circuit is per the &quot;KK7UQ Interface Model II&quot; circuit although I chose not to use the potentiometers and solid state relay in the original design. The original design and documentation can be found here:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://kk7uq.com/html/download/Manual2E.pdf<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The RS232 level converter is per a circuit attributed to OE1RIB.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I decided not to go with the Yaseu CT62 cable because I wanted the ability to use the DTR line for PTT (which is much cleaner for automated CW than keying with serial commands). Don't get me wrong here, I prefer a key, however flexibility was one of the design goals. I modified the level converter circuit to take power from the radio rather than trying to rob it from DTR/CTS with diodes. There is also a DPDT toggle switch on the back of the data interface which is an &quot;OFF&quot; switch (cuts the power from the radio and cuts the PTT line). I looked at off-the-shelf interfaces and most of them were either too big or required power for the audio circuitry.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Use a USB-serial converter if your computer doesn't have a serial port. I recommend using converters with the FTDI chipset for best performance and OS compatibility (I used USBG-RS232-F12 from usbgear.com).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the actual circuit I used to build the data interface:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to leave clearance for the jacks and switches when laying out the components on the PC board.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Velcro attachment<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Mounted to radio<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To connect the interface box to the radio I used a short piece of cat5 network cable wired like this&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT RD W-Br&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT TD W-G&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT + Br-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT GND G-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Data Out12 O-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data In W-Bl&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data PTT W-O&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data GND Bl-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The mini-din connectors go in very tight so beware of non-functioning or partial connections when you do this. Once you get them seated properly they work great and stay in place. Make sure to notch the back of the connector sleeves so the cables can exit at 90 degrees. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In the above photo you will also notice a connector/adapter contraption covered with electrical tape. These UHF right-angle adapters were used because the radio rests on its back side in the pack and we don't want the weight of the radio sitting on a PL259 connector and pinching the coax. All UHF right-angle adapters are not created equal. Most of them are garbage and use a small internal spring to connect the center conductor. The correct part to use is Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U. The adapter connecting the radio to the tuner is two of the Amphenol right-angle adapters connected with a short piece of LMR-600 with the center conductor diameter ground down from 0.176&quot; to 0.157&quot;. The length of the LMR600 and the mounting position of the tuner are critical because you don't want to obstruct the ports on the rear of the radio. As you can see in the photo below, this arrangement makes the back of the radio very compact which helps it fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_back.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Power Wiring===<br /> On the power supply you can add a third powerpole connector which is jumped to ground. When the third connector is also done on the radio side (connected to the radio brown wire) it forces the radio to 20W when plugged into the supply. This is good because our power supply is only rated for 7.5 amps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The power cable is 24 inches of 12-gauge red/black zipcord with a third wire for sensing low-power mode. Additionally it has a 16 inch length of zipcord for the tuner with a 2.5x5.5mm right-angle connector. As with the OEM cable, the 12-gauge cable splits off into two 14-gauge cables at the connector. You will notice that there are no fuses on this cable. I didn't bother because all my power sources for the pack are fused. In hindsight it would be prudent to put 30A fuses on both the positive and negative wires.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Third Powerpole connector for low power sense.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Connector end detail<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Monopod===<br /> The monopod is used to elevate the feedpoint of the dipole or a short vertical antenna. It is carbon fiber, weighs only 19oz, and extends to 68&quot;.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The monopod needs to be shortened to fit into the pack. Going around the perimeter of the small end rod, cut off the bottom half of the top rubber cap. This will allow the rod to collapse about an additional 1/2 inch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The bottom cap can be removed by pushing in the two roll pins with a small center punch. Then, with the rod fully collapsed, you will see there is about 13/16 inch you can saw off the big end without hitting the smaller rods that collapse inside of it. The photo below shows it after the cut.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Radio setup===<br /> Here is how I set mine up&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 7.000mhz<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to on.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 19&quot; (CAT Rate). Set it to 9600.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 29&quot; (CW Sidetone). Set it to 5.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 38&quot; (Dig Mode). Set it to PSK31-U.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 59&quot; (Mic Sel). Set it to RMT if you are using the MH-59A8J mic.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 86&quot; (TX IF Filter). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 2.3<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 50.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 144.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 20.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 446.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 10.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Enable 2.3kc filter for TX:<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push FUNC, rotate select to N, press 2.3 (above B key)<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ==Usage==<br /> The most basic setup is pulling the aluminum pack handle up one notch and attaching the mount/antenna. This can be used for a quick base setup or walking around with the pack on your back. The photo below shows the mount and 2m/70cm whip installed. If you want a somewhat useful counterpoise for 6m/2m/70cm without attaching the counterpoise wire, simply invert the feedline such that the chokes are by the radio instead of by the antenna. This way you can use the coax itself for a counterpoise. Its certainly not the best way to do it but it will work.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each aluminum rod is 18&quot; and you can use one of them by itself for a 2m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rods2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you use both rods with the 2m/70cm whip on top you will have a 6m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> You can use the monopod to elevate the a 6m/2m/70cm antenna. We use the carpal tunnel wrist strap to attach the monopod to the packs aluminum handle. The next photo looks like the leaning tower of Pisa because my first prototype was done with a medium-sized wrist strap. I have since moved to a small-sized strap which makes it stand much straighter. The monopod is good for 6m/2m/70cm verticals and for holding the feedpoint of a dipole. Do not use the monopod with the 8-foot antenna rod and/or the large loading coil as it gets too top heavy to remain stable. The following photo shows the ground radials installed and the choke ferrite near the antenna feedpoint. For a simpler setup you can skip the ground radials and invert the feedline (so the choke ferrites are near the radio) which will make the feedline act as a counterpoise. Yes I know this was said earlier in the article but its worth repeating.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_8.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Detail of antenna mount attached to the monopod pole<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_9.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The collapsible antenna by itself will work as a quarter-wave on 10m (pictured below) and should also tune up ok on 12m. It will work as a quarter-wave on 15m if you add the two aluminum extension rods.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Attaching the coil (tapped on the lowest turn) to the antenna base with the two aluminum rods above it will tune down to 80m. This configuration will have near zero efficiency however it will allow short-range communication on 75/80m while walking around with the pack on your back.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The best vertical configuration for 80m thru 17m is attaching the two rods to the base, putting the coil on top of the rods, then putting the collapsible aluminum antenna rod on top. It is best to tilt the pack over on its wheels and assemble the antenna on the ground.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once its assembled, tilt it up by lifting the aluminum arm on the pack. The weight of the batteries do a good job of keeping the antenna in place.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you want to try 160 meters you can remove the 8 foot whip and connect one of the 59-foot wire spools to the top of the coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a dipole configuration you can strap the balun to the top of the monopod and connect our spools of wire to it. Dipoles work best when they are at least 1/4 wave above the ground. Our feedpoint impedance will typically be much less than 50 ohms because in most cases we will be less than 1/4 wave off the ground. This will be especially noticeable on 40m/80m. Attach one wire to the &quot;C&quot; (common) balun terminal and attach the other wire to either the 12, 25, or 50 ohm terminal depending on which one works best. The wire spools use 3/8 ring terminals so we can optionally connect them directly to the vertical antenna mount if you want to feed a dipole directly without the balun.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One other important thing to note about dipoles is its best to keep the ends up off the ground. There is 8 feet of nylon rope at the end of the spools which can help in getting your wire somewhere it can be secured. In my pack I also keep short plastic tent stakes and short bungee cords which can help in some situations.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_10.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> There are a few other odds &amp; ends I keep in the pack. The PL-259 center to ring terminal adapter is for using the voltage balun with the vertical antenna. The Powerpole &quot;Y&quot; cable is for running the AC adapter or solar charger while using the radio. The short 3/8-24 bolt is for attaching a dipole wire directly to the antenna mount or to the top of the coil. There are also two 8-foot stereo cables for the data adapter and a 10-foot serial cable (not pictured). (I chose 8-10' cables to keep the computer RF a little ways away from the radio/antenna). At the bottom is the usb/serial adapter and on the bottom right are short velcro cable ties for attaching the feedline to the monopole and/or aluminum pack handle.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_misc.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is how it all fits into the pack<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_11.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete pack with both batteries and the computer weighs 35 lbs.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The weight can be substantially reduced by removing the spare battery, AC adapter, computer (if you don't need it), and any antenna parts you don't plan on using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In case you are wondering where the CW key/paddles are, I'm still working on finding a solution that works well with this portable setup.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Two that have been recommended are the Mini Paddle from Milestone Technologies and the Traveler Light from Begali.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Parts &amp; Prices==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> $799 FT857D w/YSK857<br /> $95 TCXO-9<br /> $82 MH-59A8J DTMF mic (also needed for direct freq entry)<br /> <br /> $120 W4RT2.3khz ssb filter<br /> $169 Z-11pro2<br /> <br /> $14 IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter (ebay)<br /> $2 bridge rectifier KBPC5010 (ebay)<br /> <br /> $144 (8) 16ah 40160s lifepo4 $24/ea (bmsbattery.com or manzanitamicro.com)<br /> $3 (8) 40160S battery holders 0.40/ea<br /> $4 (8) 40160S bus bar connectors 0.50/ea<br /> $80 battery shipping<br /> <br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> <br /> $97 (2) 30A Battery Management PCB http://www.batteryspace.com/pcbprotectioncircuitmodulefor4cells128vlifepo4batterypackat30alimited.aspx<br /> <br /> $11 USB to serial converter http://www.usbgear.com/computer_cable_details.cfm?sku=USBG-RS232-F12&amp;cats=199&amp;catid=482%2C199%2C601%2C461<br /> <br /> $8 3/8X24 Thread Mirror Mount: Wilson 901104<br /> $5 (20') Belden 8219 (RG58A/U) <br /> $3 (4) Amphenol 83-185-RFX (UG-175 reducer)<br /> $20 (4) Amphenol 83-822 (PL259)<br /> $10 shipping (theantennafarm.com)<br /> <br /> $79 Jansport Driver 8 TN89-008 UPC 757969203361 Wheeled Backpack (buy.com)<br /> <br /> $6 dual-band (2/440) whip with 3/8x24 mount (hamstick EDBW-1, Opek DB-1, or Workman DB-1) <br /> $4 (2) WORKKW2000A or CONXPARTSA (this is the power cord and connector pins)<br /> $3 (6 feet) Red &amp; Black DC wire 12 GA<br /> $9 shipping (k1cra.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (3') LMR-600 (showmecables.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 nuts (7/16&quot; head)<br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts<br /> $2 (8) 1/4&quot;-20 wingnuts<br /> $9 (10') 4&quot; drainpipe (we need one 7 3/4&quot; piece)<br /> $4 (2) 4&quot; drainpipe cap (home depot)<br /> <br /> $20 (5) littelfuse FHA30 12AWG inline fuse holder<br /> $3 (1) 5-pack of ATO 7.5 fuse (drillspot.com)<br /> <br /> $3 4' 14 gauge cable (for short part of radio power connector) (.62/ft)<br /> $1 4' 18 gauge cable (for battery sense +/- to pcb, low power wire on power cable) (.31/ft)<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (22-18) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $4 (1) 1/4&quot; (16-14) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (12-10) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $10 shipping (parts-express.com)<br /> <br /> (1) DB9F mouser 156-1309 0.80<br /> (4) BC546A mouser 512-BC546A 0.10<br /> (2) 5.6k 1/4w mouser 588-OD562JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (3) 10k 1/4w mouser 588-OD103JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (1) 3.5mm 3-pin plug (cw) (2 wires used) mouser 568-NYS231BG 1.69 (for cw jack)<br /> (1) 8-pin mini-din (cat) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2608 1.49<br /> (1) 6-pin mini-din (data) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2606 1.36<br /> (2) 600ohm 1:1 transformer mouser 42TL016-RC 1.66<br /> (2) 51 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD510JE 0.42<br /> (1) 1uf cap mouser 5989-100V1.0-F 0.71<br /> (1) .0047uf cap mouser 140-50P5-472K-RC 50v ceramic disc 0.12<br /> (1) 100 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD101JE 0.42 carbon comp 5%<br /> (1) 1k 1/4w mouser 588-OD102JE 0.42<br /> (1) board mouser 854-PR1593K $4.10 2.6 x 2.6<br /> (1) box mouser 546-1593KBK $2.88 (box is 2.6 x 2.6 x 1.1)<br /> (2) 2.2k resistor 1/2w carbon comp 5% mouser 588-OF222JE (1/4w mouser 588-OD222JE 0.42 not avail)<br /> (4) PL259 right angle Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U Mouser 523-83-1AP $14.70/ea<br /> (1) 2.5x5.5mm right angle plug (24AWG) power plug for tuner mouser 171-3216-EX $1.04/ea<br /> (2) ferrites - mouser 875-LFB187102-000 3.03/ea 3/4&quot; OD .400&quot; ID 1.125&quot; long (3 turns RG58 = 1000 ohm impedance @ 1-5mhz)<br /> (2) mouser 526-WH22-00-100 100' 22awg copper 7-strand hookup wire black nteinc.com $19 (use p/n 03-100 for orange) insulation OD 0.060&quot;<br /> (2) 3.5mm stereo jacks 502-35RAPC3BV4 2.73<br /> $112 total<br /> $12 shipping (mouser.com)<br /> <br /> $8 (1) 14-pack 3/8 ring terminal 16-14AWG (JT&amp;T 2011H - amazon.com)<br /> $18 (2) 8ft 3.5mm stereo cables (mediabridge - amazon.com)<br /> $3 21/64 (.3281&quot;) drill bit for 3/8-24 threads (amazon.com)<br /> $28 3' Aluminum 6061-T6 Seamless Round Tubing, WW-T 700/6, 1/2&quot; OD, 1/4&quot; ID, 1/8&quot; Wall, 36&quot; Length (amazon.com)<br /> $65 Opteka CFM300 68&quot; 5 Section 8x Carbon Fiber Monopod (amazon.com)<br /> $209 (1) PowerFilm F15-1200 20W solar panel 10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6 1 lb (amazon.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (4) EZ-Hook XM (digi-key 461-1004-ND)<br /> <br /> $2 Akro-Mils plastic dividers (Akro-Mils 40150 wasserstrom.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (8) 3/8-24 Jam Nuts 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (2) 3/8-24 Hex Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $10 (5) 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (10) 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer 316 Stainless Steel<br /> $7 shipping (fastener-warehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $7 (5') 1/4&quot; schedule 80 PVC pipe (usplastic.com)<br /> <br /> $14 (2) coleman 827E140T colthesline reel (coleman.com)<br /> <br /> $58 AT-271A/PRC antenna (ebay) OR $58 Voile Tourlight Avalanche Probe (8 foot) (voile-usa.com)<br /> Alternatively there are threaded snow probes at: http://us-warehouse.genuineguidegear.com/collections/probes/products/solid-probes<br /> <br /> $2 (2) 6&quot; tent stakes (rei.com)<br /> $2 (1) 4-pack of 10&quot; bungee cords (rei.com)<br /> $8 tax/shipping (rei.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) F-125-K Toroid Core 1.25&quot; 250-300 permeability low loss ferrite 1-30 mhz (theaudioguru.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (1) 1/4 lb Wire, 16ga (0.05&quot;) enameled (we need 4 feet for toroid) (allspectrum.com or jameco.com)<br /> <br /> $20 (1) 79-87283 DonJoy COMFORTFORM WRIST support-Small right (expressorthopedics.com - warning, it takes them a month to ship it)<br /> <br /> $8 Cables To Go 52030 - 6ft DB9 M/F All Lines Extension Cable Black (nextwarehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) 85085K8 25-pack nylon edge trim .065 gap width 3/16 opening, 15/64 height, 12 3/4 long<br /> $23 (1) 8871K71 80' (1 lb) spool .064&quot; (14ga) tin coated copper wire (spool says Arcor 14AWG)<br /> $2 (1) 91187A202 1.5&quot; 5/16-18 RHT stainless stud (or you can order a 10-pack for $4.55 with part number 95412A587)<br /> $10 (2) 95412A659 5-pack of 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud<br /> $9 tax/shipping (mcmaster.com)<br /> <br /> ==========<br /> $2518 approximate cost<br /> <br /> <br /> $? (1) stickyback velcro (attach tuner to radio mount)<br /> <br /> $? (1) velcro wire ties (attach coax to antenna mast)<br /> <br /> $? (1) 3/8-24 tap<br /> $? (1) 5/16-18 tap<br /> $? (1) Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box (for balun) 3x2x1&quot;<br /> <br /> $? (4) 30A (12-14AWG) red/black powerpole connector (1 for radio, 2 for batteries, 1 for AC/DC power supply)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==More Information==<br /> Here are some websites with great ideas for building backpack radios:<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://ec1cw.blogspot.com/2012/12/my-ft-857d-manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/321107979094<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_22/665730_Build_your_own_HF_manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://hfpack.com/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://pinztrek.com/radio/hfpack/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.dbbear.com/k0emt/projant/hfpack/</div> Mon, 04 Aug 2014 03:08:55 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:W7KI_Manpack_Radio http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/W7KI_Manpack_Radio <p>Rich:&#32;/* The Antenna */</p> <hr /> <div>[[File:FT857_and_tuner_in_pack.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;This article details how I set up a HF/VHF/UHF manpack radio.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> ==Overview==<br /> ===Design goals===<br /> Radio RF Output:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Minimum of 20W, preferable to have optional 50W+ available if needed<br /> Radio Frequency coverage:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : HF, 6 meters, 2 meters, and 70cm<br /> Radio Modes:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : FM/SSB/CW/PSK<br /> Radio receive current:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : preferably less than 700mA<br /> Tuner:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : 10-500ohm minimum, preferable little to no idle current<br /> Battery:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : sufficient to handle a weekend without recharging<br /> Power:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Battery, AC, or solar&lt;br&gt;<br /> Antenna:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Vertical or dipole with optional voltage balun<br /> PC:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Small netbook capable of digital modes<br /> Size:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Everything fits within a pack suitable for airplane carry-on (21x14x10&quot;).<br /> All items:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Weight as minimal as possible !<br /> Cost:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : $2500 neighborhood<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Radio===<br /> Here is a quick rundown of the radios I considered:&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Military radios==== <br /> : I looked at the PRC-104, PRC-132, PRC-138, PRC-320, PRC-1099, PRC-2000, and AEG SE-6861.<br /> : All of them are good radios. Only problem is I want HF/6/2/440 so I'm stuck<br /> : with looking at amateur radios.<br /> <br /> ====Vertex VX-1210====<br /> : This is a commercial radio ($1400+, 7.1lb w/batt, rx: 500mA, tx: 3A/5W, 5A/20W)<br /> : Very tempting but is HF only. Has option for internal autotuner and can be<br /> : set up for VFO operation. Battery is 14.4v 4AH.<br /> <br /> ====Mobat Micom 3 Pathfinder====<br /> : This is a 25W commercial radio. Excessive cost for this project. Otherwise a great radio !<br /> <br /> ====Outback radios (QMAC, Barrett, Codan)====<br /> : QMAC HF90 excessive cost &amp; no longer made, Barrett 940 too heavy (18.5lbs w/tuner battery)<br /> : Barrett 2040, Codan 2110 excessive cost.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-817ND====<br /> : Portable amateur radio ($600, 2.6lb, 8-16v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 2A/5W)<br /> : Tempting, and would pair nicely with the LDG Z-817 or Elecraft T1 tuner.<br /> : Only problem is I want 20W+. This could be accomplished with a Tokyo High Power HL-45B<br /> : amp ($400, 3.4 lbs, 8.5A/45W, 160-6m) + LDG Z-817H tuner.<br /> : This is a viable combination and has the benefit of low RX current.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC703+====<br /> : Amateur radio (discontinued, 4.4lb, 9-15.8v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 3A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Nice radio, big and easily readable display, built in autotuner. Wish it did 2m/440<br /> : like its bigger brother (IC-706).<br /> <br /> ====Elecraft KX3====<br /> : Portable amateur radio (new to market, 1.5lb, 8-14v(?), rx: 150-???mA, tx: ?A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Great display and control layout located on what would normally be considered the &quot;top&quot;<br /> : of the radio which gives ample room compared to other radios. Built in autotuner. CW paddles<br /> : right on front of the radio. I would have liked to see a little more than 10W however its<br /> : certainly a reasonable and usable amount of power (and better than 5W). Has option for <br /> : an external KXPA100 100W amp and KXAT100 tuner. Overall it is an exciting product and I <br /> : probably would have bought one if I wasn't looking to have 2m/440 in the same radio.<br /> : I don't know if it supports CTCSS for 10m FM repeaters and CTCSS/DCS for 6m FM repeaters.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC706MK2G====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 5.5lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1800-2000mA, tx: 20A/100W)<br /> : RX current way too high, VHF frontend easily overloads. Nice display as with the IC703<br /> : above. The RX current is a deal breaker for battery ops. <br /> <br /> ====Icom IC7000====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($1200, 5.1lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1300-1600mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : Nice radio. RX current better than IC706 but still a little on the high side for battery ops.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-897D====<br /> : Mobile/portable amateur radio ($900, 8.6lb, 11.7-15.9v, rx: 600-1000mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : HF/50 MHz:5 watts = 4.0-4.7 amps 10 watts = 5.3-6.4 amps 25 watts = 7.3-9.2 amps 50 watts = 10.6-12.9 amps<br /> : 144 MHz: 5 watts = 3.4 amps 10 watts = 4.2 amps 25 watts = 6.3 amps 50 watts = 9.4 amps<br /> : 420 MHz: 5 watts = 4.2 amps 10 watts = 5.6 amps 20 watts = 8.7 amps<br /> :<br /> : Designed for field ops and has room for internal batteries (13.2v, 9AH) however the batteries<br /> : add an additional 6.5lbs to a radio which is already heavy at 8.6lbs. One option is to run your<br /> : own external battery which gives you room to install an internal 120V power supply. Overall<br /> : I really like this radio but its ruggedness will cost you in weight. You can get the FT-857D<br /> : (sacrificing the 897's rugged case and internal battery space) and save 4lbs on your back.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-857D====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 4.6lb, 12.4-15.2v,<br /> : rx: 600-1000mA (spec) 650-700mA (green/red backlight) 590mA (backlight off)<br /> : tx: 2A/5W 5A/15W 22A/100W)<br /> : Unlike the FT-897D above, this radio does not come with a TCXO. By the time you spend $100 on<br /> : the TCXO you end up with about the same radio as the FT-897D for the same price. Comparing the<br /> : FT-857D to the FT-897D has some pluses: 4lbs lighter, detachable head, and easier to mount mobile.<br /> : The minuses are we don't get the rugged case and battery space. I don't think either of these<br /> : minuses will matter as the radio and batteries will end up in a pack. One other thing to note is<br /> : both the 857 and 897 will automatically limit the radio to 20W when running on battery power<br /> : (by grounding the brown wire on the power connector).<br /> : Spec says voltage is 12.4-15.2, manual says 11.73-15.87.<br /> : The 857's signal will start sounding bad at about 11.75v.<br /> <br /> Given everything above it came down to deciding between the FT-857D and FT-897D.&lt;br&gt;<br /> I chose the FT-857D because its 4lbs lighter than the FT-897D. Every pound counts when backpacking !&lt;br&gt;<br /> The radio is best equipped with: tcxo-9, keypad mic, (2) W4RT/inrad.net filters.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Tuner===<br /> For honorable mention we have the long-discontinued Kenwood AT-130 which is a very small 80-10m(+WARC)&lt;br&gt;<br /> manual tuner (6 x 2.4 x 6.3 inches, 3.5 lbs.). For field ops I prefer a small autotuner. Yaesu makes the&lt;br&gt;<br /> FC-30 ($170, 17-150 ohms, 3.1 x 1.8 x 10.2 in, 2.2 lbs) however its 17-150 ohm tuning range is quite&lt;br&gt;<br /> narrow compared to the LDG product line.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the breakdown of the LDG products I looked at. All of them have latching relays.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> : $200 LDG YT-100 for 857/897 100w 4-800 ohm 7 x 7 x 2 1.5lbs<br /> : $200 LDG AT-897+ for 857/897 100w 6-800 ohm 11.5 x 3.25 x 1.5 2.0lbs<br /> : $160 Z100+ ? 125w 6-800 ohm 5.5 x 5.5 x 1.5 1 lb w/o batts<br /> : $170 Z11pro2 6-1000 ohm 7.7 x 5.0 x 1.5 1.5lb w/o batts<br /> &lt;br&gt; <br /> I ended up going with the Z11pro2 as it can autotune based on RF sense which keeps the CAT and ACC ports free. This is good because we&lt;br&gt;<br /> need both ports for our data interface. Another bonus of RF sense tuning is it makes the radio PC-ALE capable provided the antenna is&lt;br&gt;<br /> tunable on whatever ALE frequencies are to be used.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device on the left is the data/soundcard interface&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[File:FT857_and_tuner.jpg]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Battery===<br /> The following text describes how to build a battery pack. If you do not want to build this battery pack then you can buy one already built. For example you can look up &quot;ZIPPY Flightmax 8400mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack&quot; which currently sells for about $75. You will need to find a suitable charger for it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> I initially considered using 11 Accupower NiMH low-discharge &quot;D&quot; cells (10aH, 1.25v, 145g ea.)&lt;br&gt;<br /> This would give us 13.75v, 10aH at 3.5lb for about $110.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After more research I went with (8) 40160S LiFePO4 batteries (16AH/ea). This project really only needs 4 of these<br /> batteries however I opted to build two battery packs. 4 of these batteries in series gives you around 13 volts.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The 40160S 16AH battery is no longer being sold. The manufacturer has replaced it with the 40152S 15AH battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Paired with each battery pack is a circuit which protects from overcharge/overdischarge/overcurrent. It also keeps the batteries balanced<br /> while charging. After a long search for a suitable lightweight container I found the 4-battery pack fits perfectly into a &quot;Huggies&quot;<br /> baby wipe plastic box. I cut a small slot in the box for a short piece of velcro which holds the lid closed. The complete pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If you intend on taking your backpack radio on a commercial aircraft, keep in mind there are restrictions on high capacity lithium ion batteries. If you believe this will be a problem you can build a pack from 11 NiMH D cells or use a pre-made NiMH RC pack. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Notice the top door works great for the powerpole.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is a view of the internals. The protection circuit board is on the top.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The AC adapter/charger===<br /> I wanted enough beef for the radio to do 20W off the adapter. I ended up getting IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter<br /> for about $14 off ebay. It is relatively small and weighs 0.4 lb. I run it through a bridge rectifier which reduces the voltage to 14.8V which is suitable for operating the radio and charging the battery pack. Of course running DC through a bridge rectifier only uses two of the four diodes however it was an inexpensive solution which is much easier than standalone diodes to mount to the cable/fuse.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I found that the battery pack can draw up to 8A during charging so I used a 10A fuse on the power supply. Yes, I know the power supply is only rated at 7.5A and putting a 10A fuse on it is not good practice. So far it hasn't been a problem. During charging the bridge rectifier can get quite hot so make sure it is on a non-flammable surface. The obvious solution to all this would be a series current limiting resistor which is something I'll look into when I get the time.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> For now I am charging the battery pack with a small smart charger (Noco Genius G3500) which is set for a standard 12V battery at a 3.5A charge rate. It just so happens that its output voltage on this setting is just right for charging the LiFePO4 battery. The Noco Genius is a handy little charger as it is also good for charging and topping off car batteries, AGM batteries, 12V 7AH brick batteries, etc. and it will float the batteries without overcharging them. Another nice thing about this charger is its small enough to fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ac_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Solar Panel===<br /> PowerFilm F15-1200 20W (10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6&quot; 1 lb )&lt;br&gt;<br /> Nice compact and light panel but a little pricey at $10/watt. I would have gone with their 30W panel but it was even more overpriced.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the solar panel<br /> [[File:W7ki_solar_panel.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Computer===<br /> EEEPC 1000h. Small battery-efficient netbook with 10&quot; screen. Used it because I had it on hand. Any netbook would probably do ok so<br /> long as it has mic/headphone jacks. One bonus of this particular computer is you can feed it 12VDC direct.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the computer<br /> [[File:W7ki_netbook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Data Interface===<br /> Homemade. Nothing fancy, just some audio isolation transformers, a level converter, and a PTT transistor.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The data interface and the tuner are attached to the mobile mounting bracket with velcro. Note how the mobile bracket is angled such that the front of the tuner is slightly elevated. This was done to give some clearance to the radio speaker and also helps to direct the audio out of the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_data_interface1.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Antenna===<br /> I looked at a variety of compact antennas (Outbacker Joey, Outbacker Stealth Plus, ATX-W38 walkabout, ATX-DHP, and a handful<br /> of others). It was difficult to find anything that would collapse to under 18 inches (requirement for the pack I'm using). It was probably just as well<br /> since many &quot;portable&quot; antennas are helical which I personally despise.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My original intent was to buy a &quot;Buddi&quot; product and evaluate how it worked in a vertical configuration. The only issue was whether their 80 meter coil would fit in the pack. I emailed them multiple times asking the dimensions of the coil but unfortunately all of my emails were ignored. This probably speaks volumes as to how they handle issues after a sale so I thought it best not to do business with them until their customer communication improves.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Of all the pre-made antennas I found two that appear to worthwhile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One is the SuperAntenna MP1B SuperStick which is a good solution as it collapses to 12 inches and weighs under 2 pounds. When I first wrote this article their company had no products available which I believe was due to a transition in ownership. Their products are now available again and I plan on trying one out. I would buy the MP1B antenna, TM1 mount, and optionally MC60 coil for 60 meters and MC80 coil for 80 meters. A properly adjusted SuperAntenna requires no tuner however you need to use a correct length ground radial. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The other is the JPC-7 product line which can be found at http://www.108mhz.com/ham-antenna-c-59.html or on ebay. All three versions are lightweight and collapse to a small size.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The text past this point describes how to build an antenna/coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I ended up using a military AT271-A/PRC antenna. It is a 7 section antenna with a 3/8-24 base that extends to 113.5 inches and collapses to 17 inches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> It has an optional 8 inch spring (AB-129/PR) which I am not currently using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:At271a.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As an alternative I found an 8.5' collapsible aluminum pole made for measuring snowpacks and after some tinkering it worked like a charm. There is a threaded version which may work better (listed at the end of this article in the Parts Sources section).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pole_antenna.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Either of these antennas is very usable on HF when paired with a couple of 18&quot; aluminum extender rods and a large tapped coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_big_coil.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> Obviously running a huge coil with a short antenna is about as worthless as a short helical so its important to remember to use as much whip or longwire as you can if you<br /> are less than 1/4 wave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a horizontal option I built a tapped voltage balun which attaches to a vertical extension arm and connects to two spools of wire.<br /> [[File:W7ki_horiz_setup.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;The wire spools can also be used as a counterpoise for vertical configurations.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the bottom is a carbon fiber camera monopod which we use as a vertical extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the top is a carpal tunnel wrist strap which is used for attaching the monopod extension arm to the pack aluminum extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is wound on Coleman camping clothesline spools.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Another HF antenna option is to build the St. Louis Vertical: http://www.amqrp.org/projects/stluisvert/STLV%20Project.html&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For VHF/UHF I have a 17&quot; dual-band antenna. For VHF only you can also put one of the 18&quot; aluminum rods onto the 1&quot; antenna mount.&lt;br&gt;<br /> 6 meters can be done with the 17&quot; antenna on top of both 18&quot; rods.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Pack===<br /> I looked at dozens of packs before settling on the Jansport Driver 8. Most other packs were either oversized and/or too heavy.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My reasoning for a 21x14x10&quot; size limit is so you can carry this on a commercial airplane if you are traveling. You certainly wouldn't want<br /> to check this as luggage as it would probably get destroyed by handling or stolen.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Two main things I liked about the Driver 8 are the wheels and the telescoping arm. The telescoping arm is wonderful because it is very sturdy<br /> aluminum which allows you to securely attach an antenna to it. This is great for manpack operations if you want the antenna up while you are<br /> walking around with the pack on your back. It also works great for fixed operations as the pack itself can be used as an antenna base.<br /> The wheels not only give your back a break where smooth surfaces are available, they also give you the ability to easily lay down the pack when assembling a long antenna. Its like having a mini fold over tower.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The wheels are inline skate wheels and have a very low ground clearance. It will roll fine inside buildings or on a paved sidewalk. The wheels will not work on a trail. This is unfortunate as it is much easier to pull 35 lbs on wheels than to heft it on your back. One possible solution to this is to run a 1/2 inch rod (or thread stock?) along the bottom of the pack and install a pair of 10&quot; x 1.75 lightweight plastic wheels. I would use Martin Wheel part number 110 wheels because they come with metal ball bearings.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:w7ki_pack_radio.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Construction and Setup==<br /> A complete materials and sources list is at the end of this article.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Extension Rods and Antenna===<br /> To make the aluminum extension rods you need a 3 foot piece of aluminum rod. Cut the rod into 3 pieces, 2 of them will be 17 inches long and the third piece will be the remaining 2 inches.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take a 21/64 inch drill bit and drill about 1.5 inches into both ends of the 17 inch rods. Be careful to drill straight. Once this is done tap threads into both ends with a 3/8-24 tap. Tapping threads into aluminum generates a tremendous amount of heat so remember to tap slowly and use an oil lubricant. Right after tapping these rods I bumped one of them with my arm and got a very nasty burn.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the tapping is done thread a 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud into both ends of the rods. Then, for each rod, put a 3/8-24 jam nut over the stud on one end and put a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut over the stud on the other end. When you are done it should look like the picture below.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> This section deals with constructing the antenna if you chose not to buy an AT-271 antenna:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now grab the remaining 2 inch piece of aluminum rod. Drill one end 1 inch deep with a size F (.2443 inch) bit then drill the other end 1 inch deep with the 21/64 inch drill bit you used for the other rods. Tap 5/16-18 threads into the size F end and 3/8-24 threads into the 21/64 end.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take the aluminum snowpack pole, remove the lanyard string, push in the lower release spring button and shove it up the tube a couple inches, and tap the bottom for 5/16-18 threads. The two photos below show the start and finish of tapping the threads. I seriously do not recommend using vise-grips as shown in the photos. The antenna deforms very easily. It would be much better to lightly use a vise which can distribute the grip better with much less crush force. Again, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CRUSH OR DEFORM THE TUBE. I darn near destroyed the prototype using vise-grips.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Next we take a 1.5 inch 5/16-18 stud and thread half of it into the antenna. This is generally difficult to do so I recommend tightening two 5/16-18 nuts against each other onto the stud and use the outer nut with a wrench. Once the stud is threaded into the antenna you can thread the 2 inch aluminum rod onto the stud, then thread a 3/8-24 stud into the other end of the rod. Put a 3/8-24 jam nut onto the exposed threads. What you have done here is built a 5/16-18 to 3/8-24 thread adapter. The photo below shows what the finished product should look like.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rod_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The next step is to modify the antenna to make it conductive. The anodized surfaces do not conduct electricity so you need to take some sandpaper and sand out the inside of the bottom of each rod (about 3/4 inch should do). Another issue is the tapered inserts which are crimped into the top of the rods. These don't conduct either so you need to lightly bond them with an arc weld. This should be done with a MIG or TIG welder. Remember to sand the surfaces first, including the entire tapered section. I cheesed mine by using two truck batteries, a pair of jumper cables, and some real thin aluminum wire. Some people refer to this as hillbilly arc welding. Please don't do this unless you know the risks, know what you are doing, and you are using appropriate eye protection. Verify the end to end continuity of the antenna with an ohmmeter when you are done. Here is what mine looked like when it was done.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_hillbilly_weld.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The final step is to flatten out the pointed tip of the antenna rod. You can do this with a grinder or file.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Coil===<br /> The coil is made from a 7 3/4 inch piece of 4 inch diameter drainpipe with a drainpipe cap on each end. To make room for more coil turns we cut 1 3/8 inch off the end of the drainpipe cap. You need to cut two end caps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Locate the center of each cap, tap the center with a center punch or nail, drill a 1/8&quot; pilot hole, then drill in again with a 3/8&quot; bit.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now we take a piece of 1/4 inch schedule 80 pvc pipe and drill/tap it for 3/8-24 threads the same way you did the aluminum rods (except please don't use lubricating oil). Its important to use schedule 80 pipe as it has the correct inside diameter for tapping threads. The pipe should be about 7 1/2 inches long and later you might have to make some slight length adjustments for fit. Once your threads are tapped you can thread a 1.5 inch 3/8-24 stud into each end then put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer over the end (see photo below). Put one end into an end cap, put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer on the outside of the end cap, stack one 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal on top of the washer, and secure it with a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut stacked on top of the ring terminal.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Put the other end cap on. On the outside stack a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer, a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal, and a 3/8-24 jam nut.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to cover up any holes in the drainpipe with a square of duct tape.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To make the coil, glue 4 pieces of .065 Nylon Edge Trim as shown in the photo (credit to Phil AD5X for finding this edge trim). When cutting them to length, remember to offset each one to correctly accommodate a spirally-wound coil. Once this is done, drill a .065&quot; diagonal hole from the edge of the cap through the top of each cap (see photo), thread the wire through the hole and wind the coil with .064&quot; (14AWG) tin coated copper wire. Remember to keep tension on the coil or else it will wind loosely. The wire is stiff and doesn't come off the coil perfectly so there will be some manual coil alignment/straightening to do after the coil is wound. Once the coil is wound, put the ends thorough the 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminals, then cut &amp; solder. Be careful of heat damage to the plastic while soldering. Its usually best to loosen the end nuts prior to soldering as it will conduct less heat away from the ring terminals.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_end.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The coil tap is an EZ-Hook XM attached to a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal with an 11 inch piece of 22-gauge 7-strand insulated hookup wire. Attach the ring terminal above the coil ring terminal as shown in the photo.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_tap.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The EZ-Hook XM works great for 17AWG wire however its a little small for our 14AWG coil. The hook can be slightly adjusted with needlenose pliers to fit the 14AWG wire. The picture below shows the modified hook profile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ezhook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As built, the coil specs out like this: 7&quot; length, 4.25&quot; dia, 50 turns, 14ga .063 (spaced) = 129uH&lt;br&gt;<br /> Its a little overkill on the size &amp; inductance but it gives a lot of flexibility with short antennas.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Balun===<br /> The balun is based on a design by WB6ZQZ. His design appears to be a bifilar current balun in series with a quadrifilar voltage balun. We are only interested in the quadrifilar transformer because we will be using an external ferrite choke on the feedline (which allows us to use the choke for antenna configurations that don't use the voltage balun). Here is a link to instructions on how to wind the quadrifilar transformer:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> http://www.antennalaunchers.com/trb/photos.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Use 16ga enameled wire and a F-125-K toroid. Once the transformer is wound you can mount it on a small piece of plastic with holes drilled for the wires. Attach the wires to each other as per his schematic diagram and PC board photos.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mount the completed toroid into a 3x2x1 inch Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box. Install an SO-239 connector into the bottom of the box. For terminals I used (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts/nuts/wingnuts which are available at a home-improvement store. Label the terminals for Common, 50, 25, and 12 ohms. Attach a short piece of velcro to the back side which allows for mounting.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Antenna Mount &amp; Wire Spools===<br /> The antenna mount uses 1/4-20 hardware. I recommend replacing two of the nuts with wingnuts. Cut an 11 foot piece of Belden 8219 RG58A/U and loop it twice through two Laird LFB187102 ferrites as shown in the photo below. The coax fits tightly and we do not want to stretch it while pulling it through the ferrites so use a non-petroleum lubricant (I used cooking spray). Once this is done you can put UG-175/U reducers on the cable and solder a PL259 connector on each end.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_choke.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is spooled on a (2) Coleman 827E140T colthesline reels (thanks to Richard WA6KYR for finding these). Each Coleman reel comes with 21 feet of nylon cord. Pull all the cord out and cut off 13 feet so there is 8 feet remaining on the spool. Attach 59 1/2 feet of 22AWG insulated hookup wire to the end of the nylon cord. You can do this by stripping the end of the wire and pushing it through the middle of the nylon cord about 1/2 inch from the end, then secure the end of the nylon cord by lightly melting it with a lighter or soldering iron. Now you can reel in the wire. If it gets stuck you can open the reel with a 1/3 turn of the enclosure shell. Attach a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal to the end of the wire.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you are wondering why we use 59 1/2 feet it is because its the only length available that is reasonably close for loading at 75-80m and is not an even 1/2-wavelength multiple of any amateur band from 6m-40m (in fact we can go +/- 3 feet before bumping into one of these multiples. You should be able to roll this out to full length and tune any amateur band from 80m-6m. It also makes a good antenna to use with ALE and our RF-sensing tuner.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Battery===<br /> Each battery pack is made of (4) 40160S LiFePO4 cells (3.2V 16Ah) with a battery management circuit put into a Huggies wipe box.<br /> The battery management circuit sits on top of a plastic board which is an Akro-Mils 40150 (3.3 x 7.7 x 0.1 inch). Mount the batteries in the plastic holders, wire them in series with the bus bars, mount the battery management circuit, then wire it in. I recommend using a 30 amp fuse as pictured. Once this is done attach a 30A (12-14AWG) Powerpole connector with 12-gauge wire. The battery management circuit will charge the battery up to 14.2v before it automatically cuts off. The charger should be at least 14.6v.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each 40160S cell is rated at 3.65V (Max Charge), 3.2V (Nominal), and 2.0V (Discharge cut off).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Max charge current is 5C (80A) and max discharge current is 10C (160A).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cell life is rated at 2000 charge/discharge cycles under normal use.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete battery pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Data Interface===<br /> The data interface consists of audio isolation transformers, an RS232 level converter, and a PTT transistor. The audio circuit is per the &quot;KK7UQ Interface Model II&quot; circuit although I chose not to use the potentiometers and solid state relay in the original design. The original design and documentation can be found here:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://kk7uq.com/html/download/Manual2E.pdf<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The RS232 level converter is per a circuit attributed to OE1RIB.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I decided not to go with the Yaseu CT62 cable because I wanted the ability to use the DTR line for PTT (which is much cleaner for automated CW than keying with serial commands). Don't get me wrong here, I prefer a key, however flexibility was one of the design goals. I modified the level converter circuit to take power from the radio rather than trying to rob it from DTR/CTS with diodes. There is also a DPDT toggle switch on the back of the data interface which is an &quot;OFF&quot; switch (cuts the power from the radio and cuts the PTT line). I looked at off-the-shelf interfaces and most of them were either too big or required power for the audio circuitry.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Use a USB-serial converter if your computer doesn't have a serial port. I recommend using converters with the FTDI chipset for best performance and OS compatibility (I used USBG-RS232-F12 from usbgear.com).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the actual circuit I used to build the data interface:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to leave clearance for the jacks and switches when laying out the components on the PC board.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Velcro attachment<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Mounted to radio<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To connect the interface box to the radio I used a short piece of cat5 network cable wired like this&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT RD W-Br&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT TD W-G&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT + Br-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT GND G-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Data Out12 O-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data In W-Bl&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data PTT W-O&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data GND Bl-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The mini-din connectors go in very tight so beware of non-functioning or partial connections when you do this. Once you get them seated properly they work great and stay in place. Make sure to notch the back of the connector sleeves so the cables can exit at 90 degrees. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In the above photo you will also notice a connector/adapter contraption covered with electrical tape. These UHF right-angle adapters were used because the radio rests on its back side in the pack and we don't want the weight of the radio sitting on a PL259 connector and pinching the coax. All UHF right-angle adapters are not created equal. Most of them are garbage and use a small internal spring to connect the center conductor. The correct part to use is Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U. The adapter connecting the radio to the tuner is two of the Amphenol right-angle adapters connected with a short piece of LMR-600 with the center conductor diameter ground down from 0.176&quot; to 0.157&quot;. The length of the LMR600 and the mounting position of the tuner are critical because you don't want to obstruct the ports on the rear of the radio. As you can see in the photo below, this arrangement makes the back of the radio very compact which helps it fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_back.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Power Wiring===<br /> On the power supply you can add a third powerpole connector which is jumped to ground. When the third connector is also done on the radio side (connected to the radio brown wire) it forces the radio to 20W when plugged into the supply. This is good because our power supply is only rated for 7.5 amps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The power cable is 24 inches of 12-gauge red/black zipcord with a third wire for sensing low-power mode. Additionally it has a 16 inch length of zipcord for the tuner with a 2.5x5.5mm right-angle connector. As with the OEM cable, the 12-gauge cable splits off into two 14-gauge cables at the connector. You will notice that there are no fuses on this cable. I didn't bother because all my power sources for the pack are fused. In hindsight it would be prudent to put 30A fuses on both the positive and negative wires.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Third Powerpole connector for low power sense.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Connector end detail<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Monopod===<br /> The monopod is used to elevate the feedpoint of the dipole or a short vertical antenna. It is carbon fiber, weighs only 19oz, and extends to 68&quot;.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The monopod needs to be shortened to fit into the pack. Going around the perimeter of the small end rod, cut off the bottom half of the top rubber cap. This will allow the rod to collapse about an additional 1/2 inch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The bottom cap can be removed by pushing in the two roll pins with a small center punch. Then, with the rod fully collapsed, you will see there is about 13/16 inch you can saw off the big end without hitting the smaller rods that collapse inside of it. The photo below shows it after the cut.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Radio setup===<br /> Here is how I set mine up&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 7.000mhz<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to on.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 19&quot; (CAT Rate). Set it to 9600.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 29&quot; (CW Sidetone). Set it to 5.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 38&quot; (Dig Mode). Set it to PSK31-U.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 59&quot; (Mic Sel). Set it to RMT if you are using the MH-59A8J mic.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 86&quot; (TX IF Filter). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 2.3<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 50.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 144.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 20.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 446.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 10.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Enable 2.3kc filter for TX:<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push FUNC, rotate select to N, press 2.3 (above B key)<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ==Usage==<br /> The most basic setup is pulling the aluminum pack handle up one notch and attaching the mount/antenna. This can be used for a quick base setup or walking around with the pack on your back. The photo below shows the mount and 2m/70cm whip installed. If you want a somewhat useful counterpoise for 6m/2m/70cm without attaching the counterpoise wire, simply invert the feedline such that the chokes are by the radio instead of by the antenna. This way you can use the coax itself for a counterpoise. Its certainly not the best way to do it but it will work.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each aluminum rod is 18&quot; and you can use one of them by itself for a 2m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rods2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you use both rods with the 2m/70cm whip on top you will have a 6m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> You can use the monopod to elevate the a 6m/2m/70cm antenna. We use the carpal tunnel wrist strap to attach the monopod to the packs aluminum handle. The next photo looks like the leaning tower of Pisa because my first prototype was done with a medium-sized wrist strap. I have since moved to a small-sized strap which makes it stand much straighter. The monopod is good for 6m/2m/70cm verticals and for holding the feedpoint of a dipole. Do not use the monopod with the 8-foot antenna rod and/or the large loading coil as it gets too top heavy to remain stable. The following photo shows the ground radials installed and the choke ferrite near the antenna feedpoint. For a simpler setup you can skip the ground radials and invert the feedline (so the choke ferrites are near the radio) which will make the feedline act as a counterpoise. Yes I know this was said earlier in the article but its worth repeating.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_8.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Detail of antenna mount attached to the monopod pole<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_9.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The collapsible antenna by itself will work as a quarter-wave on 10m (pictured below) and should also tune up ok on 12m. It will work as a quarter-wave on 15m if you add the two aluminum extension rods.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Attaching the coil (tapped on the lowest turn) to the antenna base with the two aluminum rods above it will tune down to 80m. This configuration will have near zero efficiency however it will allow short-range communication on 75/80m while walking around with the pack on your back.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The best vertical configuration for 80m thru 17m is attaching the two rods to the base, putting the coil on top of the rods, then putting the collapsible aluminum antenna rod on top. It is best to tilt the pack over on its wheels and assemble the antenna on the ground.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once its assembled, tilt it up by lifting the aluminum arm on the pack. The weight of the batteries do a good job of keeping the antenna in place.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you want to try 160 meters you can remove the 8 foot whip and connect one of the 59-foot wire spools to the top of the coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a dipole configuration you can strap the balun to the top of the monopod and connect our spools of wire to it. Dipoles work best when they are at least 1/4 wave above the ground. Our feedpoint impedance will typically be much less than 50 ohms because in most cases we will be less than 1/4 wave off the ground. This will be especially noticeable on 40m/80m. Attach one wire to the &quot;C&quot; (common) balun terminal and attach the other wire to either the 12, 25, or 50 ohm terminal depending on which one works best. The wire spools use 3/8 ring terminals so we can optionally connect them directly to the vertical antenna mount if you want to feed a dipole directly without the balun.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One other important thing to note about dipoles is its best to keep the ends up off the ground. There is 8 feet of nylon rope at the end of the spools which can help in getting your wire somewhere it can be secured. In my pack I also keep short plastic tent stakes and short bungee cords which can help in some situations.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_10.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> There are a few other odds &amp; ends I keep in the pack. The PL-259 center to ring terminal adapter is for using the voltage balun with the vertical antenna. The Powerpole &quot;Y&quot; cable is for running the AC adapter or solar charger while using the radio. The short 3/8-24 bolt is for attaching a dipole wire directly to the antenna mount or to the top of the coil. There are also two 8-foot stereo cables for the data adapter and a 10-foot serial cable (not pictured). (I chose 8-10' cables to keep the computer RF a little ways away from the radio/antenna). At the bottom is the usb/serial adapter and on the bottom right are short velcro cable ties for attaching the feedline to the monopole and/or aluminum pack handle.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_misc.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is how it all fits into the pack<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_11.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete pack with both batteries and the computer weighs 35 lbs.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The weight can be substantially reduced by removing the spare battery, AC adapter, computer (if you don't need it), and any antenna parts you don't plan on using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In case you are wondering where the CW key/paddles are, I'm still working on finding a solution that works well with this portable setup.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Two that have been recommended are the Mini Paddle from Milestone Technologies and the Traveler Light from Begali.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Parts &amp; Prices==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> $799 FT857D w/YSK857<br /> $95 TCXO-9<br /> $82 MH-59A8J DTMF mic (also needed for direct freq entry)<br /> <br /> $120 W4RT2.3khz ssb filter<br /> $169 Z-11pro2<br /> <br /> $14 IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter (ebay)<br /> $2 bridge rectifier KBPC5010 (ebay)<br /> <br /> $144 (8) 16ah 40160s lifepo4 $24/ea (bmsbattery.com or manzanitamicro.com)<br /> $3 (8) 40160S battery holders 0.40/ea<br /> $4 (8) 40160S bus bar connectors 0.50/ea<br /> $80 battery shipping<br /> <br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> <br /> $97 (2) 30A Battery Management PCB http://www.batteryspace.com/pcbprotectioncircuitmodulefor4cells128vlifepo4batterypackat30alimited.aspx<br /> <br /> $11 USB to serial converter http://www.usbgear.com/computer_cable_details.cfm?sku=USBG-RS232-F12&amp;cats=199&amp;catid=482%2C199%2C601%2C461<br /> <br /> $8 3/8X24 Thread Mirror Mount: Wilson 901104<br /> $5 (20') Belden 8219 (RG58A/U) <br /> $3 (4) Amphenol 83-185-RFX (UG-175 reducer)<br /> $20 (4) Amphenol 83-822 (PL259)<br /> $10 shipping (theantennafarm.com)<br /> <br /> $79 Jansport Driver 8 TN89-008 UPC 757969203361 Wheeled Backpack (buy.com)<br /> <br /> $6 dual-band (2/440) whip with 3/8x24 mount (hamstick EDBW-1, Opek DB-1, or Workman DB-1) <br /> $4 (2) WORKKW2000A or CONXPARTSA (this is the power cord and connector pins)<br /> $3 (6 feet) Red &amp; Black DC wire 12 GA<br /> $9 shipping (k1cra.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (3') LMR-600 (showmecables.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 nuts (7/16&quot; head)<br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts<br /> $2 (8) 1/4&quot;-20 wingnuts<br /> $9 (10') 4&quot; drainpipe (we need one 7 3/4&quot; piece)<br /> $4 (2) 4&quot; drainpipe cap (home depot)<br /> <br /> $20 (5) littelfuse FHA30 12AWG inline fuse holder<br /> $3 (1) 5-pack of ATO 7.5 fuse (drillspot.com)<br /> <br /> $3 4' 14 gauge cable (for short part of radio power connector) (.62/ft)<br /> $1 4' 18 gauge cable (for battery sense +/- to pcb, low power wire on power cable) (.31/ft)<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (22-18) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $4 (1) 1/4&quot; (16-14) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (12-10) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $10 shipping (parts-express.com)<br /> <br /> (1) DB9F mouser 156-1309 0.80<br /> (4) BC546A mouser 512-BC546A 0.10<br /> (2) 5.6k 1/4w mouser 588-OD562JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (3) 10k 1/4w mouser 588-OD103JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (1) 3.5mm 3-pin plug (cw) (2 wires used) mouser 568-NYS231BG 1.69 (for cw jack)<br /> (1) 8-pin mini-din (cat) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2608 1.49<br /> (1) 6-pin mini-din (data) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2606 1.36<br /> (2) 600ohm 1:1 transformer mouser 42TL016-RC 1.66<br /> (2) 51 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD510JE 0.42<br /> (1) 1uf cap mouser 5989-100V1.0-F 0.71<br /> (1) .0047uf cap mouser 140-50P5-472K-RC 50v ceramic disc 0.12<br /> (1) 100 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD101JE 0.42 carbon comp 5%<br /> (1) 1k 1/4w mouser 588-OD102JE 0.42<br /> (1) board mouser 854-PR1593K $4.10 2.6 x 2.6<br /> (1) box mouser 546-1593KBK $2.88 (box is 2.6 x 2.6 x 1.1)<br /> (2) 2.2k resistor 1/2w carbon comp 5% mouser 588-OF222JE (1/4w mouser 588-OD222JE 0.42 not avail)<br /> (4) PL259 right angle Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U Mouser 523-83-1AP $14.70/ea<br /> (1) 2.5x5.5mm right angle plug (24AWG) power plug for tuner mouser 171-3216-EX $1.04/ea<br /> (2) ferrites - mouser 875-LFB187102-000 3.03/ea 3/4&quot; OD .400&quot; ID 1.125&quot; long (3 turns RG58 = 1000 ohm impedance @ 1-5mhz)<br /> (2) mouser 526-WH22-00-100 100' 22awg copper 7-strand hookup wire black nteinc.com $19 (use p/n 03-100 for orange) insulation OD 0.060&quot;<br /> (2) 3.5mm stereo jacks 502-35RAPC3BV4 2.73<br /> $112 total<br /> $12 shipping (mouser.com)<br /> <br /> $8 (1) 14-pack 3/8 ring terminal 16-14AWG (JT&amp;T 2011H - amazon.com)<br /> $18 (2) 8ft 3.5mm stereo cables (mediabridge - amazon.com)<br /> $3 21/64 (.3281&quot;) drill bit for 3/8-24 threads (amazon.com)<br /> $28 3' Aluminum 6061-T6 Seamless Round Tubing, WW-T 700/6, 1/2&quot; OD, 1/4&quot; ID, 1/8&quot; Wall, 36&quot; Length (amazon.com)<br /> $65 Opteka CFM300 68&quot; 5 Section 8x Carbon Fiber Monopod (amazon.com)<br /> $209 (1) PowerFilm F15-1200 20W solar panel 10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6 1 lb (amazon.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (4) EZ-Hook XM (digi-key 461-1004-ND)<br /> <br /> $2 Akro-Mils plastic dividers (Akro-Mils 40150 wasserstrom.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (8) 3/8-24 Jam Nuts 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (2) 3/8-24 Hex Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $10 (5) 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (10) 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer 316 Stainless Steel<br /> $7 shipping (fastener-warehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $7 (5') 1/4&quot; schedule 80 PVC pipe (usplastic.com)<br /> <br /> $14 (2) coleman 827E140T colthesline reel (coleman.com)<br /> <br /> $58 AT-271A/PRC antenna (ebay) OR $58 Voile Tourlight Avalanche Probe (8 foot) (voile-usa.com)<br /> Alternatively there are threaded snow probes at: http://us-warehouse.genuineguidegear.com/collections/probes/products/solid-probes<br /> <br /> $2 (2) 6&quot; tent stakes (rei.com)<br /> $2 (1) 4-pack of 10&quot; bungee cords (rei.com)<br /> $8 tax/shipping (rei.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) F-125-K Toroid Core 1.25&quot; 250-300 permeability low loss ferrite 1-30 mhz (theaudioguru.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (1) 1/4 lb Wire, 16ga (0.05&quot;) enameled (we need 4 feet for toroid) (allspectrum.com or jameco.com)<br /> <br /> $20 (1) 79-87283 DonJoy COMFORTFORM WRIST support-Small right (expressorthopedics.com - warning, it takes them a month to ship it)<br /> <br /> $8 Cables To Go 52030 - 6ft DB9 M/F All Lines Extension Cable Black (nextwarehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) 85085K8 25-pack nylon edge trim .065 gap width 3/16 opening, 15/64 height, 12 3/4 long<br /> $23 (1) 8871K71 80' (1 lb) spool .064&quot; (14ga) tin coated copper wire (spool says Arcor 14AWG)<br /> $2 (1) 91187A202 1.5&quot; 5/16-18 RHT stainless stud (or you can order a 10-pack for $4.55 with part number 95412A587)<br /> $10 (2) 95412A659 5-pack of 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud<br /> $9 tax/shipping (mcmaster.com)<br /> <br /> ==========<br /> $2518 approximate cost<br /> <br /> <br /> $? (1) stickyback velcro (attach tuner to radio mount)<br /> <br /> $? (1) velcro wire ties (attach coax to antenna mast)<br /> <br /> $? (1) 3/8-24 tap<br /> $? (1) 5/16-18 tap<br /> $? (1) Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box (for balun) 3x2x1&quot;<br /> <br /> $? (4) 30A (12-14AWG) red/black powerpole connector (1 for radio, 2 for batteries, 1 for AC/DC power supply)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==More Information==<br /> Here are some websites with great ideas for building backpack radios:<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://ec1cw.blogspot.com/2012/12/my-ft-857d-manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/321107979094<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_22/665730_Build_your_own_HF_manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://hfpack.com/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://pinztrek.com/radio/hfpack/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.dbbear.com/k0emt/projant/hfpack/</div> Mon, 04 Aug 2014 03:08:14 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:W7KI_Manpack_Radio http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/W7KI_Manpack_Radio <p>Rich:&#32;/* Yaesu FT-817ND */</p> <hr /> <div>[[File:FT857_and_tuner_in_pack.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;This article details how I set up a HF/VHF/UHF manpack radio.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> ==Overview==<br /> ===Design goals===<br /> Radio RF Output:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Minimum of 20W, preferable to have optional 50W+ available if needed<br /> Radio Frequency coverage:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : HF, 6 meters, 2 meters, and 70cm<br /> Radio Modes:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : FM/SSB/CW/PSK<br /> Radio receive current:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : preferably less than 700mA<br /> Tuner:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : 10-500ohm minimum, preferable little to no idle current<br /> Battery:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : sufficient to handle a weekend without recharging<br /> Power:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Battery, AC, or solar&lt;br&gt;<br /> Antenna:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Vertical or dipole with optional voltage balun<br /> PC:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Small netbook capable of digital modes<br /> Size:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Everything fits within a pack suitable for airplane carry-on (21x14x10&quot;).<br /> All items:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Weight as minimal as possible !<br /> Cost:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : $2500 neighborhood<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Radio===<br /> Here is a quick rundown of the radios I considered:&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Military radios==== <br /> : I looked at the PRC-104, PRC-132, PRC-138, PRC-320, PRC-1099, PRC-2000, and AEG SE-6861.<br /> : All of them are good radios. Only problem is I want HF/6/2/440 so I'm stuck<br /> : with looking at amateur radios.<br /> <br /> ====Vertex VX-1210====<br /> : This is a commercial radio ($1400+, 7.1lb w/batt, rx: 500mA, tx: 3A/5W, 5A/20W)<br /> : Very tempting but is HF only. Has option for internal autotuner and can be<br /> : set up for VFO operation. Battery is 14.4v 4AH.<br /> <br /> ====Mobat Micom 3 Pathfinder====<br /> : This is a 25W commercial radio. Excessive cost for this project. Otherwise a great radio !<br /> <br /> ====Outback radios (QMAC, Barrett, Codan)====<br /> : QMAC HF90 excessive cost &amp; no longer made, Barrett 940 too heavy (18.5lbs w/tuner battery)<br /> : Barrett 2040, Codan 2110 excessive cost.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-817ND====<br /> : Portable amateur radio ($600, 2.6lb, 8-16v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 2A/5W)<br /> : Tempting, and would pair nicely with the LDG Z-817 or Elecraft T1 tuner.<br /> : Only problem is I want 20W+. This could be accomplished with a Tokyo High Power HL-45B<br /> : amp ($400, 3.4 lbs, 8.5A/45W, 160-6m) + LDG Z-817H tuner.<br /> : This is a viable combination and has the benefit of low RX current.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC703+====<br /> : Amateur radio (discontinued, 4.4lb, 9-15.8v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 3A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Nice radio, big and easily readable display, built in autotuner. Wish it did 2m/440<br /> : like its bigger brother (IC-706).<br /> <br /> ====Elecraft KX3====<br /> : Portable amateur radio (new to market, 1.5lb, 8-14v(?), rx: 150-???mA, tx: ?A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Great display and control layout located on what would normally be considered the &quot;top&quot;<br /> : of the radio which gives ample room compared to other radios. Built in autotuner. CW paddles<br /> : right on front of the radio. I would have liked to see a little more than 10W however its<br /> : certainly a reasonable and usable amount of power (and better than 5W). Has option for <br /> : an external KXPA100 100W amp and KXAT100 tuner. Overall it is an exciting product and I <br /> : probably would have bought one if I wasn't looking to have 2m/440 in the same radio.<br /> : I don't know if it supports CTCSS for 10m FM repeaters and CTCSS/DCS for 6m FM repeaters.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC706MK2G====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 5.5lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1800-2000mA, tx: 20A/100W)<br /> : RX current way too high, VHF frontend easily overloads. Nice display as with the IC703<br /> : above. The RX current is a deal breaker for battery ops. <br /> <br /> ====Icom IC7000====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($1200, 5.1lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1300-1600mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : Nice radio. RX current better than IC706 but still a little on the high side for battery ops.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-897D====<br /> : Mobile/portable amateur radio ($900, 8.6lb, 11.7-15.9v, rx: 600-1000mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : HF/50 MHz:5 watts = 4.0-4.7 amps 10 watts = 5.3-6.4 amps 25 watts = 7.3-9.2 amps 50 watts = 10.6-12.9 amps<br /> : 144 MHz: 5 watts = 3.4 amps 10 watts = 4.2 amps 25 watts = 6.3 amps 50 watts = 9.4 amps<br /> : 420 MHz: 5 watts = 4.2 amps 10 watts = 5.6 amps 20 watts = 8.7 amps<br /> :<br /> : Designed for field ops and has room for internal batteries (13.2v, 9AH) however the batteries<br /> : add an additional 6.5lbs to a radio which is already heavy at 8.6lbs. One option is to run your<br /> : own external battery which gives you room to install an internal 120V power supply. Overall<br /> : I really like this radio but its ruggedness will cost you in weight. You can get the FT-857D<br /> : (sacrificing the 897's rugged case and internal battery space) and save 4lbs on your back.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-857D====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 4.6lb, 12.4-15.2v,<br /> : rx: 600-1000mA (spec) 650-700mA (green/red backlight) 590mA (backlight off)<br /> : tx: 2A/5W 5A/15W 22A/100W)<br /> : Unlike the FT-897D above, this radio does not come with a TCXO. By the time you spend $100 on<br /> : the TCXO you end up with about the same radio as the FT-897D for the same price. Comparing the<br /> : FT-857D to the FT-897D has some pluses: 4lbs lighter, detachable head, and easier to mount mobile.<br /> : The minuses are we don't get the rugged case and battery space. I don't think either of these<br /> : minuses will matter as the radio and batteries will end up in a pack. One other thing to note is<br /> : both the 857 and 897 will automatically limit the radio to 20W when running on battery power<br /> : (by grounding the brown wire on the power connector).<br /> : Spec says voltage is 12.4-15.2, manual says 11.73-15.87.<br /> : The 857's signal will start sounding bad at about 11.75v.<br /> <br /> Given everything above it came down to deciding between the FT-857D and FT-897D.&lt;br&gt;<br /> I chose the FT-857D because its 4lbs lighter than the FT-897D. Every pound counts when backpacking !&lt;br&gt;<br /> The radio is best equipped with: tcxo-9, keypad mic, (2) W4RT/inrad.net filters.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Tuner===<br /> For honorable mention we have the long-discontinued Kenwood AT-130 which is a very small 80-10m(+WARC)&lt;br&gt;<br /> manual tuner (6 x 2.4 x 6.3 inches, 3.5 lbs.). For field ops I prefer a small autotuner. Yaesu makes the&lt;br&gt;<br /> FC-30 ($170, 17-150 ohms, 3.1 x 1.8 x 10.2 in, 2.2 lbs) however its 17-150 ohm tuning range is quite&lt;br&gt;<br /> narrow compared to the LDG product line.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the breakdown of the LDG products I looked at. All of them have latching relays.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> : $200 LDG YT-100 for 857/897 100w 4-800 ohm 7 x 7 x 2 1.5lbs<br /> : $200 LDG AT-897+ for 857/897 100w 6-800 ohm 11.5 x 3.25 x 1.5 2.0lbs<br /> : $160 Z100+ ? 125w 6-800 ohm 5.5 x 5.5 x 1.5 1 lb w/o batts<br /> : $170 Z11pro2 6-1000 ohm 7.7 x 5.0 x 1.5 1.5lb w/o batts<br /> &lt;br&gt; <br /> I ended up going with the Z11pro2 as it can autotune based on RF sense which keeps the CAT and ACC ports free. This is good because we&lt;br&gt;<br /> need both ports for our data interface. Another bonus of RF sense tuning is it makes the radio PC-ALE capable provided the antenna is&lt;br&gt;<br /> tunable on whatever ALE frequencies are to be used.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device on the left is the data/soundcard interface&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[File:FT857_and_tuner.jpg]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Battery===<br /> The following text describes how to build a battery pack. If you do not want to build this battery pack then you can buy one already built. For example you can look up &quot;ZIPPY Flightmax 8400mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack&quot; which currently sells for about $75. You will need to find a suitable charger for it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> I initially considered using 11 Accupower NiMH low-discharge &quot;D&quot; cells (10aH, 1.25v, 145g ea.)&lt;br&gt;<br /> This would give us 13.75v, 10aH at 3.5lb for about $110.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After more research I went with (8) 40160S LiFePO4 batteries (16AH/ea). This project really only needs 4 of these<br /> batteries however I opted to build two battery packs. 4 of these batteries in series gives you around 13 volts.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The 40160S 16AH battery is no longer being sold. The manufacturer has replaced it with the 40152S 15AH battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Paired with each battery pack is a circuit which protects from overcharge/overdischarge/overcurrent. It also keeps the batteries balanced<br /> while charging. After a long search for a suitable lightweight container I found the 4-battery pack fits perfectly into a &quot;Huggies&quot;<br /> baby wipe plastic box. I cut a small slot in the box for a short piece of velcro which holds the lid closed. The complete pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If you intend on taking your backpack radio on a commercial aircraft, keep in mind there are restrictions on high capacity lithium ion batteries. If you believe this will be a problem you can build a pack from 11 NiMH D cells or use a pre-made NiMH RC pack. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Notice the top door works great for the powerpole.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is a view of the internals. The protection circuit board is on the top.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The AC adapter/charger===<br /> I wanted enough beef for the radio to do 20W off the adapter. I ended up getting IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter<br /> for about $14 off ebay. It is relatively small and weighs 0.4 lb. I run it through a bridge rectifier which reduces the voltage to 14.8V which is suitable for operating the radio and charging the battery pack. Of course running DC through a bridge rectifier only uses two of the four diodes however it was an inexpensive solution which is much easier than standalone diodes to mount to the cable/fuse.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I found that the battery pack can draw up to 8A during charging so I used a 10A fuse on the power supply. Yes, I know the power supply is only rated at 7.5A and putting a 10A fuse on it is not good practice. So far it hasn't been a problem. During charging the bridge rectifier can get quite hot so make sure it is on a non-flammable surface. The obvious solution to all this would be a series current limiting resistor which is something I'll look into when I get the time.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> For now I am charging the battery pack with a small smart charger (Noco Genius G3500) which is set for a standard 12V battery at a 3.5A charge rate. It just so happens that its output voltage on this setting is just right for charging the LiFePO4 battery. The Noco Genius is a handy little charger as it is also good for charging and topping off car batteries, AGM batteries, 12V 7AH brick batteries, etc. and it will float the batteries without overcharging them. Another nice thing about this charger is its small enough to fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ac_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Solar Panel===<br /> PowerFilm F15-1200 20W (10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6&quot; 1 lb )&lt;br&gt;<br /> Nice compact and light panel but a little pricey at $10/watt. I would have gone with their 30W panel but it was even more overpriced.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the solar panel<br /> [[File:W7ki_solar_panel.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Computer===<br /> EEEPC 1000h. Small battery-efficient netbook with 10&quot; screen. Used it because I had it on hand. Any netbook would probably do ok so<br /> long as it has mic/headphone jacks. One bonus of this particular computer is you can feed it 12VDC direct.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the computer<br /> [[File:W7ki_netbook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Data Interface===<br /> Homemade. Nothing fancy, just some audio isolation transformers, a level converter, and a PTT transistor.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The data interface and the tuner are attached to the mobile mounting bracket with velcro. Note how the mobile bracket is angled such that the front of the tuner is slightly elevated. This was done to give some clearance to the radio speaker and also helps to direct the audio out of the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_data_interface1.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Antenna===<br /> I looked at a variety of compact antennas (Outbacker Joey, Outbacker Stealth Plus, ATX-W38 walkabout, ATX-DHP, and a handful<br /> of others). It was difficult to find anything that would collapse to under 18 inches (requirement for the pack I'm using). It was probably just as well<br /> since many &quot;portable&quot; antennas are helical which I personally despise.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My original intent was to buy a &quot;Buddi&quot; product and evaluate how it worked in a vertical configuration. The only issue was whether their 80 meter coil would fit in the pack. I emailed them multiple times asking the dimensions of the coil but unfortunately all of my emails were ignored. This probably speaks volumes as to how they handle issues after a sale so I thought it best not to do business with them until their customer communication improves.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Of all the pre-made antennas I found The SuperAntenna MP1B SuperStick would likely be the best off the shelf solution as it collapses to 12 inches and weighs under 2 pounds. When I first wrote this article their company had no products available which I believe was due to a transition in ownership. Their products are now available again and I plan on trying one out. I would buy the MP1B antenna, TM1 mount, and optionally MC60 coil for 60 meters and MC80 coil for 80 meters. A properly adjusted SuperAntenna requires no tuner however you need to use a correct length ground radial. This is my recommendation if you do not want to build an antenna. The text past this point describes how to build an antenna/coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I ended up using a military AT271-A/PRC antenna. It is a 7 section antenna with a 3/8-24 base that extends to 113.5 inches and collapses to 17 inches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> It has an optional 8 inch spring (AB-129/PR) which I am not currently using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:At271a.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As an alternative I found an 8.5' collapsible aluminum pole made for measuring snowpacks and after some tinkering it worked like a charm. There is a threaded version which may work better (listed at the end of this article in the Parts Sources section).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pole_antenna.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Either of these antennas is very usable on HF when paired with a couple of 18&quot; aluminum extender rods and a large tapped coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_big_coil.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> Obviously running a huge coil with a short antenna is about as worthless as a short helical so its important to remember to use as much whip or longwire as you can if you<br /> are less than 1/4 wave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a horizontal option I built a tapped voltage balun which attaches to a vertical extension arm and connects to two spools of wire.<br /> [[File:W7ki_horiz_setup.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;The wire spools can also be used as a counterpoise for vertical configurations.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the bottom is a carbon fiber camera monopod which we use as a vertical extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the top is a carpal tunnel wrist strap which is used for attaching the monopod extension arm to the pack aluminum extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is wound on Coleman camping clothesline spools.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Another HF antenna option is to build the St. Louis Vertical: http://www.amqrp.org/projects/stluisvert/STLV%20Project.html&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For VHF/UHF I have a 17&quot; dual-band antenna. For VHF only you can also put one of the 18&quot; aluminum rods onto the 1&quot; antenna mount.&lt;br&gt;<br /> 6 meters can be done with the 17&quot; antenna on top of both 18&quot; rods.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Pack===<br /> I looked at dozens of packs before settling on the Jansport Driver 8. Most other packs were either oversized and/or too heavy.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My reasoning for a 21x14x10&quot; size limit is so you can carry this on a commercial airplane if you are traveling. You certainly wouldn't want<br /> to check this as luggage as it would probably get destroyed by handling or stolen.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Two main things I liked about the Driver 8 are the wheels and the telescoping arm. The telescoping arm is wonderful because it is very sturdy<br /> aluminum which allows you to securely attach an antenna to it. This is great for manpack operations if you want the antenna up while you are<br /> walking around with the pack on your back. It also works great for fixed operations as the pack itself can be used as an antenna base.<br /> The wheels not only give your back a break where smooth surfaces are available, they also give you the ability to easily lay down the pack when assembling a long antenna. Its like having a mini fold over tower.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The wheels are inline skate wheels and have a very low ground clearance. It will roll fine inside buildings or on a paved sidewalk. The wheels will not work on a trail. This is unfortunate as it is much easier to pull 35 lbs on wheels than to heft it on your back. One possible solution to this is to run a 1/2 inch rod (or thread stock?) along the bottom of the pack and install a pair of 10&quot; x 1.75 lightweight plastic wheels. I would use Martin Wheel part number 110 wheels because they come with metal ball bearings.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:w7ki_pack_radio.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Construction and Setup==<br /> A complete materials and sources list is at the end of this article.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Extension Rods and Antenna===<br /> To make the aluminum extension rods you need a 3 foot piece of aluminum rod. Cut the rod into 3 pieces, 2 of them will be 17 inches long and the third piece will be the remaining 2 inches.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take a 21/64 inch drill bit and drill about 1.5 inches into both ends of the 17 inch rods. Be careful to drill straight. Once this is done tap threads into both ends with a 3/8-24 tap. Tapping threads into aluminum generates a tremendous amount of heat so remember to tap slowly and use an oil lubricant. Right after tapping these rods I bumped one of them with my arm and got a very nasty burn.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the tapping is done thread a 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud into both ends of the rods. Then, for each rod, put a 3/8-24 jam nut over the stud on one end and put a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut over the stud on the other end. When you are done it should look like the picture below.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> This section deals with constructing the antenna if you chose not to buy an AT-271 antenna:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now grab the remaining 2 inch piece of aluminum rod. Drill one end 1 inch deep with a size F (.2443 inch) bit then drill the other end 1 inch deep with the 21/64 inch drill bit you used for the other rods. Tap 5/16-18 threads into the size F end and 3/8-24 threads into the 21/64 end.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take the aluminum snowpack pole, remove the lanyard string, push in the lower release spring button and shove it up the tube a couple inches, and tap the bottom for 5/16-18 threads. The two photos below show the start and finish of tapping the threads. I seriously do not recommend using vise-grips as shown in the photos. The antenna deforms very easily. It would be much better to lightly use a vise which can distribute the grip better with much less crush force. Again, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CRUSH OR DEFORM THE TUBE. I darn near destroyed the prototype using vise-grips.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Next we take a 1.5 inch 5/16-18 stud and thread half of it into the antenna. This is generally difficult to do so I recommend tightening two 5/16-18 nuts against each other onto the stud and use the outer nut with a wrench. Once the stud is threaded into the antenna you can thread the 2 inch aluminum rod onto the stud, then thread a 3/8-24 stud into the other end of the rod. Put a 3/8-24 jam nut onto the exposed threads. What you have done here is built a 5/16-18 to 3/8-24 thread adapter. The photo below shows what the finished product should look like.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rod_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The next step is to modify the antenna to make it conductive. The anodized surfaces do not conduct electricity so you need to take some sandpaper and sand out the inside of the bottom of each rod (about 3/4 inch should do). Another issue is the tapered inserts which are crimped into the top of the rods. These don't conduct either so you need to lightly bond them with an arc weld. This should be done with a MIG or TIG welder. Remember to sand the surfaces first, including the entire tapered section. I cheesed mine by using two truck batteries, a pair of jumper cables, and some real thin aluminum wire. Some people refer to this as hillbilly arc welding. Please don't do this unless you know the risks, know what you are doing, and you are using appropriate eye protection. Verify the end to end continuity of the antenna with an ohmmeter when you are done. Here is what mine looked like when it was done.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_hillbilly_weld.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The final step is to flatten out the pointed tip of the antenna rod. You can do this with a grinder or file.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Coil===<br /> The coil is made from a 7 3/4 inch piece of 4 inch diameter drainpipe with a drainpipe cap on each end. To make room for more coil turns we cut 1 3/8 inch off the end of the drainpipe cap. You need to cut two end caps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Locate the center of each cap, tap the center with a center punch or nail, drill a 1/8&quot; pilot hole, then drill in again with a 3/8&quot; bit.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now we take a piece of 1/4 inch schedule 80 pvc pipe and drill/tap it for 3/8-24 threads the same way you did the aluminum rods (except please don't use lubricating oil). Its important to use schedule 80 pipe as it has the correct inside diameter for tapping threads. The pipe should be about 7 1/2 inches long and later you might have to make some slight length adjustments for fit. Once your threads are tapped you can thread a 1.5 inch 3/8-24 stud into each end then put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer over the end (see photo below). Put one end into an end cap, put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer on the outside of the end cap, stack one 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal on top of the washer, and secure it with a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut stacked on top of the ring terminal.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Put the other end cap on. On the outside stack a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer, a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal, and a 3/8-24 jam nut.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to cover up any holes in the drainpipe with a square of duct tape.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To make the coil, glue 4 pieces of .065 Nylon Edge Trim as shown in the photo (credit to Phil AD5X for finding this edge trim). When cutting them to length, remember to offset each one to correctly accommodate a spirally-wound coil. Once this is done, drill a .065&quot; diagonal hole from the edge of the cap through the top of each cap (see photo), thread the wire through the hole and wind the coil with .064&quot; (14AWG) tin coated copper wire. Remember to keep tension on the coil or else it will wind loosely. The wire is stiff and doesn't come off the coil perfectly so there will be some manual coil alignment/straightening to do after the coil is wound. Once the coil is wound, put the ends thorough the 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminals, then cut &amp; solder. Be careful of heat damage to the plastic while soldering. Its usually best to loosen the end nuts prior to soldering as it will conduct less heat away from the ring terminals.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_end.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The coil tap is an EZ-Hook XM attached to a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal with an 11 inch piece of 22-gauge 7-strand insulated hookup wire. Attach the ring terminal above the coil ring terminal as shown in the photo.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_tap.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The EZ-Hook XM works great for 17AWG wire however its a little small for our 14AWG coil. The hook can be slightly adjusted with needlenose pliers to fit the 14AWG wire. The picture below shows the modified hook profile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ezhook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As built, the coil specs out like this: 7&quot; length, 4.25&quot; dia, 50 turns, 14ga .063 (spaced) = 129uH&lt;br&gt;<br /> Its a little overkill on the size &amp; inductance but it gives a lot of flexibility with short antennas.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Balun===<br /> The balun is based on a design by WB6ZQZ. His design appears to be a bifilar current balun in series with a quadrifilar voltage balun. We are only interested in the quadrifilar transformer because we will be using an external ferrite choke on the feedline (which allows us to use the choke for antenna configurations that don't use the voltage balun). Here is a link to instructions on how to wind the quadrifilar transformer:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> http://www.antennalaunchers.com/trb/photos.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Use 16ga enameled wire and a F-125-K toroid. Once the transformer is wound you can mount it on a small piece of plastic with holes drilled for the wires. Attach the wires to each other as per his schematic diagram and PC board photos.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mount the completed toroid into a 3x2x1 inch Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box. Install an SO-239 connector into the bottom of the box. For terminals I used (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts/nuts/wingnuts which are available at a home-improvement store. Label the terminals for Common, 50, 25, and 12 ohms. Attach a short piece of velcro to the back side which allows for mounting.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Antenna Mount &amp; Wire Spools===<br /> The antenna mount uses 1/4-20 hardware. I recommend replacing two of the nuts with wingnuts. Cut an 11 foot piece of Belden 8219 RG58A/U and loop it twice through two Laird LFB187102 ferrites as shown in the photo below. The coax fits tightly and we do not want to stretch it while pulling it through the ferrites so use a non-petroleum lubricant (I used cooking spray). Once this is done you can put UG-175/U reducers on the cable and solder a PL259 connector on each end.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_choke.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is spooled on a (2) Coleman 827E140T colthesline reels (thanks to Richard WA6KYR for finding these). Each Coleman reel comes with 21 feet of nylon cord. Pull all the cord out and cut off 13 feet so there is 8 feet remaining on the spool. Attach 59 1/2 feet of 22AWG insulated hookup wire to the end of the nylon cord. You can do this by stripping the end of the wire and pushing it through the middle of the nylon cord about 1/2 inch from the end, then secure the end of the nylon cord by lightly melting it with a lighter or soldering iron. Now you can reel in the wire. If it gets stuck you can open the reel with a 1/3 turn of the enclosure shell. Attach a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal to the end of the wire.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you are wondering why we use 59 1/2 feet it is because its the only length available that is reasonably close for loading at 75-80m and is not an even 1/2-wavelength multiple of any amateur band from 6m-40m (in fact we can go +/- 3 feet before bumping into one of these multiples. You should be able to roll this out to full length and tune any amateur band from 80m-6m. It also makes a good antenna to use with ALE and our RF-sensing tuner.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Battery===<br /> Each battery pack is made of (4) 40160S LiFePO4 cells (3.2V 16Ah) with a battery management circuit put into a Huggies wipe box.<br /> The battery management circuit sits on top of a plastic board which is an Akro-Mils 40150 (3.3 x 7.7 x 0.1 inch). Mount the batteries in the plastic holders, wire them in series with the bus bars, mount the battery management circuit, then wire it in. I recommend using a 30 amp fuse as pictured. Once this is done attach a 30A (12-14AWG) Powerpole connector with 12-gauge wire. The battery management circuit will charge the battery up to 14.2v before it automatically cuts off. The charger should be at least 14.6v.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each 40160S cell is rated at 3.65V (Max Charge), 3.2V (Nominal), and 2.0V (Discharge cut off).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Max charge current is 5C (80A) and max discharge current is 10C (160A).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cell life is rated at 2000 charge/discharge cycles under normal use.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete battery pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Data Interface===<br /> The data interface consists of audio isolation transformers, an RS232 level converter, and a PTT transistor. The audio circuit is per the &quot;KK7UQ Interface Model II&quot; circuit although I chose not to use the potentiometers and solid state relay in the original design. The original design and documentation can be found here:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://kk7uq.com/html/download/Manual2E.pdf<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The RS232 level converter is per a circuit attributed to OE1RIB.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I decided not to go with the Yaseu CT62 cable because I wanted the ability to use the DTR line for PTT (which is much cleaner for automated CW than keying with serial commands). Don't get me wrong here, I prefer a key, however flexibility was one of the design goals. I modified the level converter circuit to take power from the radio rather than trying to rob it from DTR/CTS with diodes. There is also a DPDT toggle switch on the back of the data interface which is an &quot;OFF&quot; switch (cuts the power from the radio and cuts the PTT line). I looked at off-the-shelf interfaces and most of them were either too big or required power for the audio circuitry.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Use a USB-serial converter if your computer doesn't have a serial port. I recommend using converters with the FTDI chipset for best performance and OS compatibility (I used USBG-RS232-F12 from usbgear.com).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the actual circuit I used to build the data interface:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to leave clearance for the jacks and switches when laying out the components on the PC board.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Velcro attachment<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Mounted to radio<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To connect the interface box to the radio I used a short piece of cat5 network cable wired like this&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT RD W-Br&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT TD W-G&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT + Br-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT GND G-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Data Out12 O-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data In W-Bl&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data PTT W-O&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data GND Bl-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The mini-din connectors go in very tight so beware of non-functioning or partial connections when you do this. Once you get them seated properly they work great and stay in place. Make sure to notch the back of the connector sleeves so the cables can exit at 90 degrees. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In the above photo you will also notice a connector/adapter contraption covered with electrical tape. These UHF right-angle adapters were used because the radio rests on its back side in the pack and we don't want the weight of the radio sitting on a PL259 connector and pinching the coax. All UHF right-angle adapters are not created equal. Most of them are garbage and use a small internal spring to connect the center conductor. The correct part to use is Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U. The adapter connecting the radio to the tuner is two of the Amphenol right-angle adapters connected with a short piece of LMR-600 with the center conductor diameter ground down from 0.176&quot; to 0.157&quot;. The length of the LMR600 and the mounting position of the tuner are critical because you don't want to obstruct the ports on the rear of the radio. As you can see in the photo below, this arrangement makes the back of the radio very compact which helps it fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_back.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Power Wiring===<br /> On the power supply you can add a third powerpole connector which is jumped to ground. When the third connector is also done on the radio side (connected to the radio brown wire) it forces the radio to 20W when plugged into the supply. This is good because our power supply is only rated for 7.5 amps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The power cable is 24 inches of 12-gauge red/black zipcord with a third wire for sensing low-power mode. Additionally it has a 16 inch length of zipcord for the tuner with a 2.5x5.5mm right-angle connector. As with the OEM cable, the 12-gauge cable splits off into two 14-gauge cables at the connector. You will notice that there are no fuses on this cable. I didn't bother because all my power sources for the pack are fused. In hindsight it would be prudent to put 30A fuses on both the positive and negative wires.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Third Powerpole connector for low power sense.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Connector end detail<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Monopod===<br /> The monopod is used to elevate the feedpoint of the dipole or a short vertical antenna. It is carbon fiber, weighs only 19oz, and extends to 68&quot;.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The monopod needs to be shortened to fit into the pack. Going around the perimeter of the small end rod, cut off the bottom half of the top rubber cap. This will allow the rod to collapse about an additional 1/2 inch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The bottom cap can be removed by pushing in the two roll pins with a small center punch. Then, with the rod fully collapsed, you will see there is about 13/16 inch you can saw off the big end without hitting the smaller rods that collapse inside of it. The photo below shows it after the cut.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Radio setup===<br /> Here is how I set mine up&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 7.000mhz<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to on.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 19&quot; (CAT Rate). Set it to 9600.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 29&quot; (CW Sidetone). Set it to 5.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 38&quot; (Dig Mode). Set it to PSK31-U.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 59&quot; (Mic Sel). Set it to RMT if you are using the MH-59A8J mic.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 86&quot; (TX IF Filter). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 2.3<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 50.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 144.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 20.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 446.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 10.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Enable 2.3kc filter for TX:<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push FUNC, rotate select to N, press 2.3 (above B key)<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ==Usage==<br /> The most basic setup is pulling the aluminum pack handle up one notch and attaching the mount/antenna. This can be used for a quick base setup or walking around with the pack on your back. The photo below shows the mount and 2m/70cm whip installed. If you want a somewhat useful counterpoise for 6m/2m/70cm without attaching the counterpoise wire, simply invert the feedline such that the chokes are by the radio instead of by the antenna. This way you can use the coax itself for a counterpoise. Its certainly not the best way to do it but it will work.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each aluminum rod is 18&quot; and you can use one of them by itself for a 2m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rods2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you use both rods with the 2m/70cm whip on top you will have a 6m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> You can use the monopod to elevate the a 6m/2m/70cm antenna. We use the carpal tunnel wrist strap to attach the monopod to the packs aluminum handle. The next photo looks like the leaning tower of Pisa because my first prototype was done with a medium-sized wrist strap. I have since moved to a small-sized strap which makes it stand much straighter. The monopod is good for 6m/2m/70cm verticals and for holding the feedpoint of a dipole. Do not use the monopod with the 8-foot antenna rod and/or the large loading coil as it gets too top heavy to remain stable. The following photo shows the ground radials installed and the choke ferrite near the antenna feedpoint. For a simpler setup you can skip the ground radials and invert the feedline (so the choke ferrites are near the radio) which will make the feedline act as a counterpoise. Yes I know this was said earlier in the article but its worth repeating.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_8.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Detail of antenna mount attached to the monopod pole<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_9.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The collapsible antenna by itself will work as a quarter-wave on 10m (pictured below) and should also tune up ok on 12m. It will work as a quarter-wave on 15m if you add the two aluminum extension rods.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Attaching the coil (tapped on the lowest turn) to the antenna base with the two aluminum rods above it will tune down to 80m. This configuration will have near zero efficiency however it will allow short-range communication on 75/80m while walking around with the pack on your back.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The best vertical configuration for 80m thru 17m is attaching the two rods to the base, putting the coil on top of the rods, then putting the collapsible aluminum antenna rod on top. It is best to tilt the pack over on its wheels and assemble the antenna on the ground.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once its assembled, tilt it up by lifting the aluminum arm on the pack. The weight of the batteries do a good job of keeping the antenna in place.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you want to try 160 meters you can remove the 8 foot whip and connect one of the 59-foot wire spools to the top of the coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a dipole configuration you can strap the balun to the top of the monopod and connect our spools of wire to it. Dipoles work best when they are at least 1/4 wave above the ground. Our feedpoint impedance will typically be much less than 50 ohms because in most cases we will be less than 1/4 wave off the ground. This will be especially noticeable on 40m/80m. Attach one wire to the &quot;C&quot; (common) balun terminal and attach the other wire to either the 12, 25, or 50 ohm terminal depending on which one works best. The wire spools use 3/8 ring terminals so we can optionally connect them directly to the vertical antenna mount if you want to feed a dipole directly without the balun.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One other important thing to note about dipoles is its best to keep the ends up off the ground. There is 8 feet of nylon rope at the end of the spools which can help in getting your wire somewhere it can be secured. In my pack I also keep short plastic tent stakes and short bungee cords which can help in some situations.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_10.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> There are a few other odds &amp; ends I keep in the pack. The PL-259 center to ring terminal adapter is for using the voltage balun with the vertical antenna. The Powerpole &quot;Y&quot; cable is for running the AC adapter or solar charger while using the radio. The short 3/8-24 bolt is for attaching a dipole wire directly to the antenna mount or to the top of the coil. There are also two 8-foot stereo cables for the data adapter and a 10-foot serial cable (not pictured). (I chose 8-10' cables to keep the computer RF a little ways away from the radio/antenna). At the bottom is the usb/serial adapter and on the bottom right are short velcro cable ties for attaching the feedline to the monopole and/or aluminum pack handle.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_misc.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is how it all fits into the pack<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_11.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete pack with both batteries and the computer weighs 35 lbs.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The weight can be substantially reduced by removing the spare battery, AC adapter, computer (if you don't need it), and any antenna parts you don't plan on using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In case you are wondering where the CW key/paddles are, I'm still working on finding a solution that works well with this portable setup.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Two that have been recommended are the Mini Paddle from Milestone Technologies and the Traveler Light from Begali.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Parts &amp; Prices==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> $799 FT857D w/YSK857<br /> $95 TCXO-9<br /> $82 MH-59A8J DTMF mic (also needed for direct freq entry)<br /> <br /> $120 W4RT2.3khz ssb filter<br /> $169 Z-11pro2<br /> <br /> $14 IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter (ebay)<br /> $2 bridge rectifier KBPC5010 (ebay)<br /> <br /> $144 (8) 16ah 40160s lifepo4 $24/ea (bmsbattery.com or manzanitamicro.com)<br /> $3 (8) 40160S battery holders 0.40/ea<br /> $4 (8) 40160S bus bar connectors 0.50/ea<br /> $80 battery shipping<br /> <br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> <br /> $97 (2) 30A Battery Management PCB http://www.batteryspace.com/pcbprotectioncircuitmodulefor4cells128vlifepo4batterypackat30alimited.aspx<br /> <br /> $11 USB to serial converter http://www.usbgear.com/computer_cable_details.cfm?sku=USBG-RS232-F12&amp;cats=199&amp;catid=482%2C199%2C601%2C461<br /> <br /> $8 3/8X24 Thread Mirror Mount: Wilson 901104<br /> $5 (20') Belden 8219 (RG58A/U) <br /> $3 (4) Amphenol 83-185-RFX (UG-175 reducer)<br /> $20 (4) Amphenol 83-822 (PL259)<br /> $10 shipping (theantennafarm.com)<br /> <br /> $79 Jansport Driver 8 TN89-008 UPC 757969203361 Wheeled Backpack (buy.com)<br /> <br /> $6 dual-band (2/440) whip with 3/8x24 mount (hamstick EDBW-1, Opek DB-1, or Workman DB-1) <br /> $4 (2) WORKKW2000A or CONXPARTSA (this is the power cord and connector pins)<br /> $3 (6 feet) Red &amp; Black DC wire 12 GA<br /> $9 shipping (k1cra.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (3') LMR-600 (showmecables.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 nuts (7/16&quot; head)<br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts<br /> $2 (8) 1/4&quot;-20 wingnuts<br /> $9 (10') 4&quot; drainpipe (we need one 7 3/4&quot; piece)<br /> $4 (2) 4&quot; drainpipe cap (home depot)<br /> <br /> $20 (5) littelfuse FHA30 12AWG inline fuse holder<br /> $3 (1) 5-pack of ATO 7.5 fuse (drillspot.com)<br /> <br /> $3 4' 14 gauge cable (for short part of radio power connector) (.62/ft)<br /> $1 4' 18 gauge cable (for battery sense +/- to pcb, low power wire on power cable) (.31/ft)<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (22-18) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $4 (1) 1/4&quot; (16-14) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (12-10) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $10 shipping (parts-express.com)<br /> <br /> (1) DB9F mouser 156-1309 0.80<br /> (4) BC546A mouser 512-BC546A 0.10<br /> (2) 5.6k 1/4w mouser 588-OD562JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (3) 10k 1/4w mouser 588-OD103JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (1) 3.5mm 3-pin plug (cw) (2 wires used) mouser 568-NYS231BG 1.69 (for cw jack)<br /> (1) 8-pin mini-din (cat) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2608 1.49<br /> (1) 6-pin mini-din (data) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2606 1.36<br /> (2) 600ohm 1:1 transformer mouser 42TL016-RC 1.66<br /> (2) 51 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD510JE 0.42<br /> (1) 1uf cap mouser 5989-100V1.0-F 0.71<br /> (1) .0047uf cap mouser 140-50P5-472K-RC 50v ceramic disc 0.12<br /> (1) 100 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD101JE 0.42 carbon comp 5%<br /> (1) 1k 1/4w mouser 588-OD102JE 0.42<br /> (1) board mouser 854-PR1593K $4.10 2.6 x 2.6<br /> (1) box mouser 546-1593KBK $2.88 (box is 2.6 x 2.6 x 1.1)<br /> (2) 2.2k resistor 1/2w carbon comp 5% mouser 588-OF222JE (1/4w mouser 588-OD222JE 0.42 not avail)<br /> (4) PL259 right angle Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U Mouser 523-83-1AP $14.70/ea<br /> (1) 2.5x5.5mm right angle plug (24AWG) power plug for tuner mouser 171-3216-EX $1.04/ea<br /> (2) ferrites - mouser 875-LFB187102-000 3.03/ea 3/4&quot; OD .400&quot; ID 1.125&quot; long (3 turns RG58 = 1000 ohm impedance @ 1-5mhz)<br /> (2) mouser 526-WH22-00-100 100' 22awg copper 7-strand hookup wire black nteinc.com $19 (use p/n 03-100 for orange) insulation OD 0.060&quot;<br /> (2) 3.5mm stereo jacks 502-35RAPC3BV4 2.73<br /> $112 total<br /> $12 shipping (mouser.com)<br /> <br /> $8 (1) 14-pack 3/8 ring terminal 16-14AWG (JT&amp;T 2011H - amazon.com)<br /> $18 (2) 8ft 3.5mm stereo cables (mediabridge - amazon.com)<br /> $3 21/64 (.3281&quot;) drill bit for 3/8-24 threads (amazon.com)<br /> $28 3' Aluminum 6061-T6 Seamless Round Tubing, WW-T 700/6, 1/2&quot; OD, 1/4&quot; ID, 1/8&quot; Wall, 36&quot; Length (amazon.com)<br /> $65 Opteka CFM300 68&quot; 5 Section 8x Carbon Fiber Monopod (amazon.com)<br /> $209 (1) PowerFilm F15-1200 20W solar panel 10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6 1 lb (amazon.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (4) EZ-Hook XM (digi-key 461-1004-ND)<br /> <br /> $2 Akro-Mils plastic dividers (Akro-Mils 40150 wasserstrom.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (8) 3/8-24 Jam Nuts 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (2) 3/8-24 Hex Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $10 (5) 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (10) 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer 316 Stainless Steel<br /> $7 shipping (fastener-warehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $7 (5') 1/4&quot; schedule 80 PVC pipe (usplastic.com)<br /> <br /> $14 (2) coleman 827E140T colthesline reel (coleman.com)<br /> <br /> $58 AT-271A/PRC antenna (ebay) OR $58 Voile Tourlight Avalanche Probe (8 foot) (voile-usa.com)<br /> Alternatively there are threaded snow probes at: http://us-warehouse.genuineguidegear.com/collections/probes/products/solid-probes<br /> <br /> $2 (2) 6&quot; tent stakes (rei.com)<br /> $2 (1) 4-pack of 10&quot; bungee cords (rei.com)<br /> $8 tax/shipping (rei.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) F-125-K Toroid Core 1.25&quot; 250-300 permeability low loss ferrite 1-30 mhz (theaudioguru.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (1) 1/4 lb Wire, 16ga (0.05&quot;) enameled (we need 4 feet for toroid) (allspectrum.com or jameco.com)<br /> <br /> $20 (1) 79-87283 DonJoy COMFORTFORM WRIST support-Small right (expressorthopedics.com - warning, it takes them a month to ship it)<br /> <br /> $8 Cables To Go 52030 - 6ft DB9 M/F All Lines Extension Cable Black (nextwarehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) 85085K8 25-pack nylon edge trim .065 gap width 3/16 opening, 15/64 height, 12 3/4 long<br /> $23 (1) 8871K71 80' (1 lb) spool .064&quot; (14ga) tin coated copper wire (spool says Arcor 14AWG)<br /> $2 (1) 91187A202 1.5&quot; 5/16-18 RHT stainless stud (or you can order a 10-pack for $4.55 with part number 95412A587)<br /> $10 (2) 95412A659 5-pack of 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud<br /> $9 tax/shipping (mcmaster.com)<br /> <br /> ==========<br /> $2518 approximate cost<br /> <br /> <br /> $? (1) stickyback velcro (attach tuner to radio mount)<br /> <br /> $? (1) velcro wire ties (attach coax to antenna mast)<br /> <br /> $? (1) 3/8-24 tap<br /> $? (1) 5/16-18 tap<br /> $? (1) Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box (for balun) 3x2x1&quot;<br /> <br /> $? (4) 30A (12-14AWG) red/black powerpole connector (1 for radio, 2 for batteries, 1 for AC/DC power supply)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==More Information==<br /> Here are some websites with great ideas for building backpack radios:<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://ec1cw.blogspot.com/2012/12/my-ft-857d-manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/321107979094<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_22/665730_Build_your_own_HF_manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://hfpack.com/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://pinztrek.com/radio/hfpack/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.dbbear.com/k0emt/projant/hfpack/</div> Fri, 04 Apr 2014 03:13:03 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:W7KI_Manpack_Radio http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Yaesu_VX-7R <p>Rich:&#32;</p> <hr /> <div> Yaesu VX7R VX-7R alignment &amp; default settings<br /> <br /> F + pwron = clone (then BAND to download from radio or V/M to upload to radio)<br /> 4 + band + vm + pwron (then F) = reset<br /> band + vm + pwron (then F) = set mode reset<br /> <br /> vm + pwron = display test (turn knob)<br /> band + pwron = toggle between &quot;normal&quot; mode &amp; &quot;memory only&quot; mode<br /> internet + pwron = unknown toggle that displays a &quot;U&quot; on the upper left of the power-on splash screen<br /> monf + hmrv + internet key + pwron = seems to be an undocumented way to enter reset mode<br /> <br /> Jumper 1,2,3,4,6,7,8 unset + Jumper 5 set = TX/RX only in US ham bands ?<br /> all Jumpers unset = Euro freeband mode<br /> all Jumpers unset except for 3 = Euro freeband mode<br /> Jumpers 2,4,5,7 set = Euro stock mode (50-52mhz rx, 144-146 tx/rx, 430-440 tx/rx)<br /> <br /> <br /> Alignment:<br /> <br /> For this to work, power up the radio. After its powered up hold down the &quot;Main&quot; key so it shows just<br /> the VHF VFO on the display. This will not work if both VFO's are showing on the display !!!<br /> Once this is done, power down the radio, then:<br /> <br /> Hold down MONI/F + INTERNET + 0 then press the power button.<br /> <br /> Press BAND to select which band you want to adjust<br /> <br /> Use the outer knob to scroll through the parameters<br /> <br /> To change a parameter: press V/M, select new value with outer knob, press V/M when done.<br /> <br /> Note that power &amp; deviation levels have separate settings for the low-end and high-end of the band<br /> When you get to the power or deviation settings press MONI/F to toggle between the low-end and high-end settings<br /> <br /> Press HM/RV to save changes and exit (I used to use F HM/RV but it appears pressing F first isn't necessary)<br /> <br /> Default values:<br /> 50 52 54 144 145 148 220 222 225 430 435 440<br /> <br /> PLL REF 126<br /> HIS SQL 0 0 0 0<br /> THLD SQL 170 172 172 160<br /> TIGH SQL 108 138 138 78<br /> S1 LEVEL (NFM) 36 32 32 50<br /> S9 LEVEL (NFM) 72 68 68 84<br /> S1 LEVEL (WFM) 60 58 58 72<br /> S9 LEVEL (WFM) 82 80 80 94<br /> HI POWER 147 145 145 147 145 147 203 206<br /> L3 POWER 113 112 114 116 114 116 154 155<br /> L2 POWER 82 83 88 89 72 72 113 113<br /> L1 POWER 52 52 56 56 57 59 59 60<br /> MAX DEV 113 113 81 72 40 38 38 38<br /> TN 67.0 45 54 56 56 10 12 89 88<br /> TN 123.0 40 47<br /> TN 151.4 16 16 19 19<br /> TN 167.9 11 16 <br /> TN 254.1 8 11 13 14 22 22 22 19<br /> DCS DEV 40 29 12 11 11 10 6 5<br /> LCD TC V 2 2 2 2<br /> LCD IREG 4 4 4 4<br /> <br /> <br /> MAX DEV (6m): 81=3.5kc 100=4kc 105=4.5kc<br /> MAX DEV (2m): 81=4.5kc<br /> MAX DEV (220): 39=4kc 42=3.5kc 45=4.2kc 46=4.3kc 47=4.5kc<br /> MAX DEV (440): 38=3.5kc 50=5kc 47=4.2kc 49=4.5kc</div> Fri, 14 Feb 2014 02:54:21 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:Yaesu_VX-7R http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/W7KI_Manpack_Radio <p>Rich:&#32;/* Parts &amp; Prices */</p> <hr /> <div>[[File:FT857_and_tuner_in_pack.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;This article details how I set up a HF/VHF/UHF manpack radio.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> ==Overview==<br /> ===Design goals===<br /> Radio RF Output:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Minimum of 20W, preferable to have optional 50W+ available if needed<br /> Radio Frequency coverage:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : HF, 6 meters, 2 meters, and 70cm<br /> Radio Modes:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : FM/SSB/CW/PSK<br /> Radio receive current:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : preferably less than 700mA<br /> Tuner:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : 10-500ohm minimum, preferable little to no idle current<br /> Battery:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : sufficient to handle a weekend without recharging<br /> Power:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Battery, AC, or solar&lt;br&gt;<br /> Antenna:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Vertical or dipole with optional voltage balun<br /> PC:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Small netbook capable of digital modes<br /> Size:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Everything fits within a pack suitable for airplane carry-on (21x14x10&quot;).<br /> All items:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Weight as minimal as possible !<br /> Cost:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : $2500 neighborhood<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Radio===<br /> Here is a quick rundown of the radios I considered:&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Military radios==== <br /> : I looked at the PRC-104, PRC-132, PRC-138, PRC-320, PRC-1099, PRC-2000, and AEG SE-6861.<br /> : All of them are good radios. Only problem is I want HF/6/2/440 so I'm stuck<br /> : with looking at amateur radios.<br /> <br /> ====Vertex VX-1210====<br /> : This is a commercial radio ($1400+, 7.1lb w/batt, rx: 500mA, tx: 3A/5W, 5A/20W)<br /> : Very tempting but is HF only. Has option for internal autotuner and can be<br /> : set up for VFO operation. Battery is 14.4v 4AH.<br /> <br /> ====Mobat Micom 3 Pathfinder====<br /> : This is a 25W commercial radio. Excessive cost for this project. Otherwise a great radio !<br /> <br /> ====Outback radios (QMAC, Barrett, Codan)====<br /> : QMAC HF90 excessive cost &amp; no longer made, Barrett 940 too heavy (18.5lbs w/tuner battery)<br /> : Barrett 2040, Codan 2110 excessive cost.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-817ND====<br /> : Portable amateur radio ($600, 2.6lb, 8-16v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 2A/5W)<br /> : Tempting, and would pair nicely with LDG Z-817 tuner.<br /> : Only problem is I want 20W+. This could be accomplished with a Tokyo High Power HL-45B<br /> : amp ($400, 3.4 lbs, 8.5A/45W, 160-6m) + LDG Z-817H tuner.<br /> : This is a viable combination and has the benefit of low RX current.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC703+====<br /> : Amateur radio (discontinued, 4.4lb, 9-15.8v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 3A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Nice radio, big and easily readable display, built in autotuner. Wish it did 2m/440<br /> : like its bigger brother (IC-706).<br /> <br /> ====Elecraft KX3====<br /> : Portable amateur radio (new to market, 1.5lb, 8-14v(?), rx: 150-???mA, tx: ?A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Great display and control layout located on what would normally be considered the &quot;top&quot;<br /> : of the radio which gives ample room compared to other radios. Built in autotuner. CW paddles<br /> : right on front of the radio. I would have liked to see a little more than 10W however its<br /> : certainly a reasonable and usable amount of power (and better than 5W). Has option for <br /> : an external KXPA100 100W amp and KXAT100 tuner. Overall it is an exciting product and I <br /> : probably would have bought one if I wasn't looking to have 2m/440 in the same radio.<br /> : I don't know if it supports CTCSS for 10m FM repeaters and CTCSS/DCS for 6m FM repeaters.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC706MK2G====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 5.5lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1800-2000mA, tx: 20A/100W)<br /> : RX current way too high, VHF frontend easily overloads. Nice display as with the IC703<br /> : above. The RX current is a deal breaker for battery ops. <br /> <br /> ====Icom IC7000====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($1200, 5.1lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1300-1600mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : Nice radio. RX current better than IC706 but still a little on the high side for battery ops.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-897D====<br /> : Mobile/portable amateur radio ($900, 8.6lb, 11.7-15.9v, rx: 600-1000mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : HF/50 MHz:5 watts = 4.0-4.7 amps 10 watts = 5.3-6.4 amps 25 watts = 7.3-9.2 amps 50 watts = 10.6-12.9 amps<br /> : 144 MHz: 5 watts = 3.4 amps 10 watts = 4.2 amps 25 watts = 6.3 amps 50 watts = 9.4 amps<br /> : 420 MHz: 5 watts = 4.2 amps 10 watts = 5.6 amps 20 watts = 8.7 amps<br /> :<br /> : Designed for field ops and has room for internal batteries (13.2v, 9AH) however the batteries<br /> : add an additional 6.5lbs to a radio which is already heavy at 8.6lbs. One option is to run your<br /> : own external battery which gives you room to install an internal 120V power supply. Overall<br /> : I really like this radio but its ruggedness will cost you in weight. You can get the FT-857D<br /> : (sacrificing the 897's rugged case and internal battery space) and save 4lbs on your back.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-857D====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 4.6lb, 12.4-15.2v,<br /> : rx: 600-1000mA (spec) 650-700mA (green/red backlight) 590mA (backlight off)<br /> : tx: 2A/5W 5A/15W 22A/100W)<br /> : Unlike the FT-897D above, this radio does not come with a TCXO. By the time you spend $100 on<br /> : the TCXO you end up with about the same radio as the FT-897D for the same price. Comparing the<br /> : FT-857D to the FT-897D has some pluses: 4lbs lighter, detachable head, and easier to mount mobile.<br /> : The minuses are we don't get the rugged case and battery space. I don't think either of these<br /> : minuses will matter as the radio and batteries will end up in a pack. One other thing to note is<br /> : both the 857 and 897 will automatically limit the radio to 20W when running on battery power<br /> : (by grounding the brown wire on the power connector).<br /> : Spec says voltage is 12.4-15.2, manual says 11.73-15.87.<br /> : The 857's signal will start sounding bad at about 11.75v.<br /> <br /> Given everything above it came down to deciding between the FT-857D and FT-897D.&lt;br&gt;<br /> I chose the FT-857D because its 4lbs lighter than the FT-897D. Every pound counts when backpacking !&lt;br&gt;<br /> The radio is best equipped with: tcxo-9, keypad mic, (2) W4RT/inrad.net filters.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Tuner===<br /> For honorable mention we have the long-discontinued Kenwood AT-130 which is a very small 80-10m(+WARC)&lt;br&gt;<br /> manual tuner (6 x 2.4 x 6.3 inches, 3.5 lbs.). For field ops I prefer a small autotuner. Yaesu makes the&lt;br&gt;<br /> FC-30 ($170, 17-150 ohms, 3.1 x 1.8 x 10.2 in, 2.2 lbs) however its 17-150 ohm tuning range is quite&lt;br&gt;<br /> narrow compared to the LDG product line.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the breakdown of the LDG products I looked at. All of them have latching relays.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> : $200 LDG YT-100 for 857/897 100w 4-800 ohm 7 x 7 x 2 1.5lbs<br /> : $200 LDG AT-897+ for 857/897 100w 6-800 ohm 11.5 x 3.25 x 1.5 2.0lbs<br /> : $160 Z100+ ? 125w 6-800 ohm 5.5 x 5.5 x 1.5 1 lb w/o batts<br /> : $170 Z11pro2 6-1000 ohm 7.7 x 5.0 x 1.5 1.5lb w/o batts<br /> &lt;br&gt; <br /> I ended up going with the Z11pro2 as it can autotune based on RF sense which keeps the CAT and ACC ports free. This is good because we&lt;br&gt;<br /> need both ports for our data interface. Another bonus of RF sense tuning is it makes the radio PC-ALE capable provided the antenna is&lt;br&gt;<br /> tunable on whatever ALE frequencies are to be used.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device on the left is the data/soundcard interface&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[File:FT857_and_tuner.jpg]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Battery===<br /> The following text describes how to build a battery pack. If you do not want to build this battery pack then you can buy one already built. For example you can look up &quot;ZIPPY Flightmax 8400mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack&quot; which currently sells for about $75. You will need to find a suitable charger for it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> I initially considered using 11 Accupower NiMH low-discharge &quot;D&quot; cells (10aH, 1.25v, 145g ea.)&lt;br&gt;<br /> This would give us 13.75v, 10aH at 3.5lb for about $110.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After more research I went with (8) 40160S LiFePO4 batteries (16AH/ea). This project really only needs 4 of these<br /> batteries however I opted to build two battery packs. 4 of these batteries in series gives you around 13 volts.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The 40160S 16AH battery is no longer being sold. The manufacturer has replaced it with the 40152S 15AH battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Paired with each battery pack is a circuit which protects from overcharge/overdischarge/overcurrent. It also keeps the batteries balanced<br /> while charging. After a long search for a suitable lightweight container I found the 4-battery pack fits perfectly into a &quot;Huggies&quot;<br /> baby wipe plastic box. I cut a small slot in the box for a short piece of velcro which holds the lid closed. The complete pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If you intend on taking your backpack radio on a commercial aircraft, keep in mind there are restrictions on high capacity lithium ion batteries. If you believe this will be a problem you can build a pack from 11 NiMH D cells or use a pre-made NiMH RC pack. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Notice the top door works great for the powerpole.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is a view of the internals. The protection circuit board is on the top.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The AC adapter/charger===<br /> I wanted enough beef for the radio to do 20W off the adapter. I ended up getting IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter<br /> for about $14 off ebay. It is relatively small and weighs 0.4 lb. I run it through a bridge rectifier which reduces the voltage to 14.8V which is suitable for operating the radio and charging the battery pack. Of course running DC through a bridge rectifier only uses two of the four diodes however it was an inexpensive solution which is much easier than standalone diodes to mount to the cable/fuse.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I found that the battery pack can draw up to 8A during charging so I used a 10A fuse on the power supply. Yes, I know the power supply is only rated at 7.5A and putting a 10A fuse on it is not good practice. So far it hasn't been a problem. During charging the bridge rectifier can get quite hot so make sure it is on a non-flammable surface. The obvious solution to all this would be a series current limiting resistor which is something I'll look into when I get the time.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> For now I am charging the battery pack with a small smart charger (Noco Genius G3500) which is set for a standard 12V battery at a 3.5A charge rate. It just so happens that its output voltage on this setting is just right for charging the LiFePO4 battery. The Noco Genius is a handy little charger as it is also good for charging and topping off car batteries, AGM batteries, 12V 7AH brick batteries, etc. and it will float the batteries without overcharging them. Another nice thing about this charger is its small enough to fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ac_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Solar Panel===<br /> PowerFilm F15-1200 20W (10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6&quot; 1 lb )&lt;br&gt;<br /> Nice compact and light panel but a little pricey at $10/watt. I would have gone with their 30W panel but it was even more overpriced.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the solar panel<br /> [[File:W7ki_solar_panel.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Computer===<br /> EEEPC 1000h. Small battery-efficient netbook with 10&quot; screen. Used it because I had it on hand. Any netbook would probably do ok so<br /> long as it has mic/headphone jacks. One bonus of this particular computer is you can feed it 12VDC direct.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the computer<br /> [[File:W7ki_netbook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Data Interface===<br /> Homemade. Nothing fancy, just some audio isolation transformers, a level converter, and a PTT transistor.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The data interface and the tuner are attached to the mobile mounting bracket with velcro. Note how the mobile bracket is angled such that the front of the tuner is slightly elevated. This was done to give some clearance to the radio speaker and also helps to direct the audio out of the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_data_interface1.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Antenna===<br /> I looked at a variety of compact antennas (Outbacker Joey, Outbacker Stealth Plus, ATX-W38 walkabout, ATX-DHP, and a handful<br /> of others). It was difficult to find anything that would collapse to under 18 inches (requirement for the pack I'm using). It was probably just as well<br /> since many &quot;portable&quot; antennas are helical which I personally despise.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My original intent was to buy a &quot;Buddi&quot; product and evaluate how it worked in a vertical configuration. The only issue was whether their 80 meter coil would fit in the pack. I emailed them multiple times asking the dimensions of the coil but unfortunately all of my emails were ignored. This probably speaks volumes as to how they handle issues after a sale so I thought it best not to do business with them until their customer communication improves.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Of all the pre-made antennas I found The SuperAntenna MP1B SuperStick would likely be the best off the shelf solution as it collapses to 12 inches and weighs under 2 pounds. When I first wrote this article their company had no products available which I believe was due to a transition in ownership. Their products are now available again and I plan on trying one out. I would buy the MP1B antenna, TM1 mount, and optionally MC60 coil for 60 meters and MC80 coil for 80 meters. A properly adjusted SuperAntenna requires no tuner however you need to use a correct length ground radial. This is my recommendation if you do not want to build an antenna. The text past this point describes how to build an antenna/coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I ended up using a military AT271-A/PRC antenna. It is a 7 section antenna with a 3/8-24 base that extends to 113.5 inches and collapses to 17 inches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> It has an optional 8 inch spring (AB-129/PR) which I am not currently using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:At271a.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As an alternative I found an 8.5' collapsible aluminum pole made for measuring snowpacks and after some tinkering it worked like a charm. There is a threaded version which may work better (listed at the end of this article in the Parts Sources section).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pole_antenna.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Either of these antennas is very usable on HF when paired with a couple of 18&quot; aluminum extender rods and a large tapped coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_big_coil.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> Obviously running a huge coil with a short antenna is about as worthless as a short helical so its important to remember to use as much whip or longwire as you can if you<br /> are less than 1/4 wave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a horizontal option I built a tapped voltage balun which attaches to a vertical extension arm and connects to two spools of wire.<br /> [[File:W7ki_horiz_setup.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;The wire spools can also be used as a counterpoise for vertical configurations.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the bottom is a carbon fiber camera monopod which we use as a vertical extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the top is a carpal tunnel wrist strap which is used for attaching the monopod extension arm to the pack aluminum extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is wound on Coleman camping clothesline spools.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Another HF antenna option is to build the St. Louis Vertical: http://www.amqrp.org/projects/stluisvert/STLV%20Project.html&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For VHF/UHF I have a 17&quot; dual-band antenna. For VHF only you can also put one of the 18&quot; aluminum rods onto the 1&quot; antenna mount.&lt;br&gt;<br /> 6 meters can be done with the 17&quot; antenna on top of both 18&quot; rods.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Pack===<br /> I looked at dozens of packs before settling on the Jansport Driver 8. Most other packs were either oversized and/or too heavy.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My reasoning for a 21x14x10&quot; size limit is so you can carry this on a commercial airplane if you are traveling. You certainly wouldn't want<br /> to check this as luggage as it would probably get destroyed by handling or stolen.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Two main things I liked about the Driver 8 are the wheels and the telescoping arm. The telescoping arm is wonderful because it is very sturdy<br /> aluminum which allows you to securely attach an antenna to it. This is great for manpack operations if you want the antenna up while you are<br /> walking around with the pack on your back. It also works great for fixed operations as the pack itself can be used as an antenna base.<br /> The wheels not only give your back a break where smooth surfaces are available, they also give you the ability to easily lay down the pack when assembling a long antenna. Its like having a mini fold over tower.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The wheels are inline skate wheels and have a very low ground clearance. It will roll fine inside buildings or on a paved sidewalk. The wheels will not work on a trail. This is unfortunate as it is much easier to pull 35 lbs on wheels than to heft it on your back. One possible solution to this is to run a 1/2 inch rod (or thread stock?) along the bottom of the pack and install a pair of 10&quot; x 1.75 lightweight plastic wheels. I would use Martin Wheel part number 110 wheels because they come with metal ball bearings.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:w7ki_pack_radio.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Construction and Setup==<br /> A complete materials and sources list is at the end of this article.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Extension Rods and Antenna===<br /> To make the aluminum extension rods you need a 3 foot piece of aluminum rod. Cut the rod into 3 pieces, 2 of them will be 17 inches long and the third piece will be the remaining 2 inches.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take a 21/64 inch drill bit and drill about 1.5 inches into both ends of the 17 inch rods. Be careful to drill straight. Once this is done tap threads into both ends with a 3/8-24 tap. Tapping threads into aluminum generates a tremendous amount of heat so remember to tap slowly and use an oil lubricant. Right after tapping these rods I bumped one of them with my arm and got a very nasty burn.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the tapping is done thread a 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud into both ends of the rods. Then, for each rod, put a 3/8-24 jam nut over the stud on one end and put a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut over the stud on the other end. When you are done it should look like the picture below.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> This section deals with constructing the antenna if you chose not to buy an AT-271 antenna:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now grab the remaining 2 inch piece of aluminum rod. Drill one end 1 inch deep with a size F (.2443 inch) bit then drill the other end 1 inch deep with the 21/64 inch drill bit you used for the other rods. Tap 5/16-18 threads into the size F end and 3/8-24 threads into the 21/64 end.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take the aluminum snowpack pole, remove the lanyard string, push in the lower release spring button and shove it up the tube a couple inches, and tap the bottom for 5/16-18 threads. The two photos below show the start and finish of tapping the threads. I seriously do not recommend using vise-grips as shown in the photos. The antenna deforms very easily. It would be much better to lightly use a vise which can distribute the grip better with much less crush force. Again, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CRUSH OR DEFORM THE TUBE. I darn near destroyed the prototype using vise-grips.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Next we take a 1.5 inch 5/16-18 stud and thread half of it into the antenna. This is generally difficult to do so I recommend tightening two 5/16-18 nuts against each other onto the stud and use the outer nut with a wrench. Once the stud is threaded into the antenna you can thread the 2 inch aluminum rod onto the stud, then thread a 3/8-24 stud into the other end of the rod. Put a 3/8-24 jam nut onto the exposed threads. What you have done here is built a 5/16-18 to 3/8-24 thread adapter. The photo below shows what the finished product should look like.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rod_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The next step is to modify the antenna to make it conductive. The anodized surfaces do not conduct electricity so you need to take some sandpaper and sand out the inside of the bottom of each rod (about 3/4 inch should do). Another issue is the tapered inserts which are crimped into the top of the rods. These don't conduct either so you need to lightly bond them with an arc weld. This should be done with a MIG or TIG welder. Remember to sand the surfaces first, including the entire tapered section. I cheesed mine by using two truck batteries, a pair of jumper cables, and some real thin aluminum wire. Some people refer to this as hillbilly arc welding. Please don't do this unless you know the risks, know what you are doing, and you are using appropriate eye protection. Verify the end to end continuity of the antenna with an ohmmeter when you are done. Here is what mine looked like when it was done.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_hillbilly_weld.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The final step is to flatten out the pointed tip of the antenna rod. You can do this with a grinder or file.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Coil===<br /> The coil is made from a 7 3/4 inch piece of 4 inch diameter drainpipe with a drainpipe cap on each end. To make room for more coil turns we cut 1 3/8 inch off the end of the drainpipe cap. You need to cut two end caps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Locate the center of each cap, tap the center with a center punch or nail, drill a 1/8&quot; pilot hole, then drill in again with a 3/8&quot; bit.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now we take a piece of 1/4 inch schedule 80 pvc pipe and drill/tap it for 3/8-24 threads the same way you did the aluminum rods (except please don't use lubricating oil). Its important to use schedule 80 pipe as it has the correct inside diameter for tapping threads. The pipe should be about 7 1/2 inches long and later you might have to make some slight length adjustments for fit. Once your threads are tapped you can thread a 1.5 inch 3/8-24 stud into each end then put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer over the end (see photo below). Put one end into an end cap, put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer on the outside of the end cap, stack one 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal on top of the washer, and secure it with a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut stacked on top of the ring terminal.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Put the other end cap on. On the outside stack a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer, a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal, and a 3/8-24 jam nut.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to cover up any holes in the drainpipe with a square of duct tape.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To make the coil, glue 4 pieces of .065 Nylon Edge Trim as shown in the photo (credit to Phil AD5X for finding this edge trim). When cutting them to length, remember to offset each one to correctly accommodate a spirally-wound coil. Once this is done, drill a .065&quot; diagonal hole from the edge of the cap through the top of each cap (see photo), thread the wire through the hole and wind the coil with .064&quot; (14AWG) tin coated copper wire. Remember to keep tension on the coil or else it will wind loosely. The wire is stiff and doesn't come off the coil perfectly so there will be some manual coil alignment/straightening to do after the coil is wound. Once the coil is wound, put the ends thorough the 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminals, then cut &amp; solder. Be careful of heat damage to the plastic while soldering. Its usually best to loosen the end nuts prior to soldering as it will conduct less heat away from the ring terminals.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_end.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The coil tap is an EZ-Hook XM attached to a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal with an 11 inch piece of 22-gauge 7-strand insulated hookup wire. Attach the ring terminal above the coil ring terminal as shown in the photo.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_tap.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The EZ-Hook XM works great for 17AWG wire however its a little small for our 14AWG coil. The hook can be slightly adjusted with needlenose pliers to fit the 14AWG wire. The picture below shows the modified hook profile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ezhook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As built, the coil specs out like this: 7&quot; length, 4.25&quot; dia, 50 turns, 14ga .063 (spaced) = 129uH&lt;br&gt;<br /> Its a little overkill on the size &amp; inductance but it gives a lot of flexibility with short antennas.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Balun===<br /> The balun is based on a design by WB6ZQZ. His design appears to be a bifilar current balun in series with a quadrifilar voltage balun. We are only interested in the quadrifilar transformer because we will be using an external ferrite choke on the feedline (which allows us to use the choke for antenna configurations that don't use the voltage balun). Here is a link to instructions on how to wind the quadrifilar transformer:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> http://www.antennalaunchers.com/trb/photos.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Use 16ga enameled wire and a F-125-K toroid. Once the transformer is wound you can mount it on a small piece of plastic with holes drilled for the wires. Attach the wires to each other as per his schematic diagram and PC board photos.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mount the completed toroid into a 3x2x1 inch Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box. Install an SO-239 connector into the bottom of the box. For terminals I used (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts/nuts/wingnuts which are available at a home-improvement store. Label the terminals for Common, 50, 25, and 12 ohms. Attach a short piece of velcro to the back side which allows for mounting.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Antenna Mount &amp; Wire Spools===<br /> The antenna mount uses 1/4-20 hardware. I recommend replacing two of the nuts with wingnuts. Cut an 11 foot piece of Belden 8219 RG58A/U and loop it twice through two Laird LFB187102 ferrites as shown in the photo below. The coax fits tightly and we do not want to stretch it while pulling it through the ferrites so use a non-petroleum lubricant (I used cooking spray). Once this is done you can put UG-175/U reducers on the cable and solder a PL259 connector on each end.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_choke.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is spooled on a (2) Coleman 827E140T colthesline reels (thanks to Richard WA6KYR for finding these). Each Coleman reel comes with 21 feet of nylon cord. Pull all the cord out and cut off 13 feet so there is 8 feet remaining on the spool. Attach 59 1/2 feet of 22AWG insulated hookup wire to the end of the nylon cord. You can do this by stripping the end of the wire and pushing it through the middle of the nylon cord about 1/2 inch from the end, then secure the end of the nylon cord by lightly melting it with a lighter or soldering iron. Now you can reel in the wire. If it gets stuck you can open the reel with a 1/3 turn of the enclosure shell. Attach a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal to the end of the wire.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you are wondering why we use 59 1/2 feet it is because its the only length available that is reasonably close for loading at 75-80m and is not an even 1/2-wavelength multiple of any amateur band from 6m-40m (in fact we can go +/- 3 feet before bumping into one of these multiples. You should be able to roll this out to full length and tune any amateur band from 80m-6m. It also makes a good antenna to use with ALE and our RF-sensing tuner.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Battery===<br /> Each battery pack is made of (4) 40160S LiFePO4 cells (3.2V 16Ah) with a battery management circuit put into a Huggies wipe box.<br /> The battery management circuit sits on top of a plastic board which is an Akro-Mils 40150 (3.3 x 7.7 x 0.1 inch). Mount the batteries in the plastic holders, wire them in series with the bus bars, mount the battery management circuit, then wire it in. I recommend using a 30 amp fuse as pictured. Once this is done attach a 30A (12-14AWG) Powerpole connector with 12-gauge wire. The battery management circuit will charge the battery up to 14.2v before it automatically cuts off. The charger should be at least 14.6v.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each 40160S cell is rated at 3.65V (Max Charge), 3.2V (Nominal), and 2.0V (Discharge cut off).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Max charge current is 5C (80A) and max discharge current is 10C (160A).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cell life is rated at 2000 charge/discharge cycles under normal use.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete battery pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Data Interface===<br /> The data interface consists of audio isolation transformers, an RS232 level converter, and a PTT transistor. The audio circuit is per the &quot;KK7UQ Interface Model II&quot; circuit although I chose not to use the potentiometers and solid state relay in the original design. The original design and documentation can be found here:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://kk7uq.com/html/download/Manual2E.pdf<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The RS232 level converter is per a circuit attributed to OE1RIB.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I decided not to go with the Yaseu CT62 cable because I wanted the ability to use the DTR line for PTT (which is much cleaner for automated CW than keying with serial commands). Don't get me wrong here, I prefer a key, however flexibility was one of the design goals. I modified the level converter circuit to take power from the radio rather than trying to rob it from DTR/CTS with diodes. There is also a DPDT toggle switch on the back of the data interface which is an &quot;OFF&quot; switch (cuts the power from the radio and cuts the PTT line). I looked at off-the-shelf interfaces and most of them were either too big or required power for the audio circuitry.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Use a USB-serial converter if your computer doesn't have a serial port. I recommend using converters with the FTDI chipset for best performance and OS compatibility (I used USBG-RS232-F12 from usbgear.com).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the actual circuit I used to build the data interface:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to leave clearance for the jacks and switches when laying out the components on the PC board.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Velcro attachment<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Mounted to radio<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To connect the interface box to the radio I used a short piece of cat5 network cable wired like this&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT RD W-Br&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT TD W-G&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT + Br-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT GND G-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Data Out12 O-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data In W-Bl&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data PTT W-O&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data GND Bl-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The mini-din connectors go in very tight so beware of non-functioning or partial connections when you do this. Once you get them seated properly they work great and stay in place. Make sure to notch the back of the connector sleeves so the cables can exit at 90 degrees. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In the above photo you will also notice a connector/adapter contraption covered with electrical tape. These UHF right-angle adapters were used because the radio rests on its back side in the pack and we don't want the weight of the radio sitting on a PL259 connector and pinching the coax. All UHF right-angle adapters are not created equal. Most of them are garbage and use a small internal spring to connect the center conductor. The correct part to use is Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U. The adapter connecting the radio to the tuner is two of the Amphenol right-angle adapters connected with a short piece of LMR-600 with the center conductor diameter ground down from 0.176&quot; to 0.157&quot;. The length of the LMR600 and the mounting position of the tuner are critical because you don't want to obstruct the ports on the rear of the radio. As you can see in the photo below, this arrangement makes the back of the radio very compact which helps it fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_back.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Power Wiring===<br /> On the power supply you can add a third powerpole connector which is jumped to ground. When the third connector is also done on the radio side (connected to the radio brown wire) it forces the radio to 20W when plugged into the supply. This is good because our power supply is only rated for 7.5 amps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The power cable is 24 inches of 12-gauge red/black zipcord with a third wire for sensing low-power mode. Additionally it has a 16 inch length of zipcord for the tuner with a 2.5x5.5mm right-angle connector. As with the OEM cable, the 12-gauge cable splits off into two 14-gauge cables at the connector. You will notice that there are no fuses on this cable. I didn't bother because all my power sources for the pack are fused. In hindsight it would be prudent to put 30A fuses on both the positive and negative wires.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Third Powerpole connector for low power sense.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Connector end detail<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Monopod===<br /> The monopod is used to elevate the feedpoint of the dipole or a short vertical antenna. It is carbon fiber, weighs only 19oz, and extends to 68&quot;.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The monopod needs to be shortened to fit into the pack. Going around the perimeter of the small end rod, cut off the bottom half of the top rubber cap. This will allow the rod to collapse about an additional 1/2 inch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The bottom cap can be removed by pushing in the two roll pins with a small center punch. Then, with the rod fully collapsed, you will see there is about 13/16 inch you can saw off the big end without hitting the smaller rods that collapse inside of it. The photo below shows it after the cut.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Radio setup===<br /> Here is how I set mine up&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 7.000mhz<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to on.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 19&quot; (CAT Rate). Set it to 9600.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 29&quot; (CW Sidetone). Set it to 5.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 38&quot; (Dig Mode). Set it to PSK31-U.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 59&quot; (Mic Sel). Set it to RMT if you are using the MH-59A8J mic.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 86&quot; (TX IF Filter). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 2.3<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 50.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 144.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 20.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 446.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 10.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Enable 2.3kc filter for TX:<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push FUNC, rotate select to N, press 2.3 (above B key)<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ==Usage==<br /> The most basic setup is pulling the aluminum pack handle up one notch and attaching the mount/antenna. This can be used for a quick base setup or walking around with the pack on your back. The photo below shows the mount and 2m/70cm whip installed. If you want a somewhat useful counterpoise for 6m/2m/70cm without attaching the counterpoise wire, simply invert the feedline such that the chokes are by the radio instead of by the antenna. This way you can use the coax itself for a counterpoise. Its certainly not the best way to do it but it will work.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each aluminum rod is 18&quot; and you can use one of them by itself for a 2m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rods2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you use both rods with the 2m/70cm whip on top you will have a 6m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> You can use the monopod to elevate the a 6m/2m/70cm antenna. We use the carpal tunnel wrist strap to attach the monopod to the packs aluminum handle. The next photo looks like the leaning tower of Pisa because my first prototype was done with a medium-sized wrist strap. I have since moved to a small-sized strap which makes it stand much straighter. The monopod is good for 6m/2m/70cm verticals and for holding the feedpoint of a dipole. Do not use the monopod with the 8-foot antenna rod and/or the large loading coil as it gets too top heavy to remain stable. The following photo shows the ground radials installed and the choke ferrite near the antenna feedpoint. For a simpler setup you can skip the ground radials and invert the feedline (so the choke ferrites are near the radio) which will make the feedline act as a counterpoise. Yes I know this was said earlier in the article but its worth repeating.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_8.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Detail of antenna mount attached to the monopod pole<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_9.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The collapsible antenna by itself will work as a quarter-wave on 10m (pictured below) and should also tune up ok on 12m. It will work as a quarter-wave on 15m if you add the two aluminum extension rods.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Attaching the coil (tapped on the lowest turn) to the antenna base with the two aluminum rods above it will tune down to 80m. This configuration will have near zero efficiency however it will allow short-range communication on 75/80m while walking around with the pack on your back.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The best vertical configuration for 80m thru 17m is attaching the two rods to the base, putting the coil on top of the rods, then putting the collapsible aluminum antenna rod on top. It is best to tilt the pack over on its wheels and assemble the antenna on the ground.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once its assembled, tilt it up by lifting the aluminum arm on the pack. The weight of the batteries do a good job of keeping the antenna in place.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you want to try 160 meters you can remove the 8 foot whip and connect one of the 59-foot wire spools to the top of the coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a dipole configuration you can strap the balun to the top of the monopod and connect our spools of wire to it. Dipoles work best when they are at least 1/4 wave above the ground. Our feedpoint impedance will typically be much less than 50 ohms because in most cases we will be less than 1/4 wave off the ground. This will be especially noticeable on 40m/80m. Attach one wire to the &quot;C&quot; (common) balun terminal and attach the other wire to either the 12, 25, or 50 ohm terminal depending on which one works best. The wire spools use 3/8 ring terminals so we can optionally connect them directly to the vertical antenna mount if you want to feed a dipole directly without the balun.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One other important thing to note about dipoles is its best to keep the ends up off the ground. There is 8 feet of nylon rope at the end of the spools which can help in getting your wire somewhere it can be secured. In my pack I also keep short plastic tent stakes and short bungee cords which can help in some situations.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_10.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> There are a few other odds &amp; ends I keep in the pack. The PL-259 center to ring terminal adapter is for using the voltage balun with the vertical antenna. The Powerpole &quot;Y&quot; cable is for running the AC adapter or solar charger while using the radio. The short 3/8-24 bolt is for attaching a dipole wire directly to the antenna mount or to the top of the coil. There are also two 8-foot stereo cables for the data adapter and a 10-foot serial cable (not pictured). (I chose 8-10' cables to keep the computer RF a little ways away from the radio/antenna). At the bottom is the usb/serial adapter and on the bottom right are short velcro cable ties for attaching the feedline to the monopole and/or aluminum pack handle.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_misc.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is how it all fits into the pack<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_11.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete pack with both batteries and the computer weighs 35 lbs.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The weight can be substantially reduced by removing the spare battery, AC adapter, computer (if you don't need it), and any antenna parts you don't plan on using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In case you are wondering where the CW key/paddles are, I'm still working on finding a solution that works well with this portable setup.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Two that have been recommended are the Mini Paddle from Milestone Technologies and the Traveler Light from Begali.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Parts &amp; Prices==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> $799 FT857D w/YSK857<br /> $95 TCXO-9<br /> $82 MH-59A8J DTMF mic (also needed for direct freq entry)<br /> <br /> $120 W4RT2.3khz ssb filter<br /> $169 Z-11pro2<br /> <br /> $14 IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter (ebay)<br /> $2 bridge rectifier KBPC5010 (ebay)<br /> <br /> $144 (8) 16ah 40160s lifepo4 $24/ea (bmsbattery.com or manzanitamicro.com)<br /> $3 (8) 40160S battery holders 0.40/ea<br /> $4 (8) 40160S bus bar connectors 0.50/ea<br /> $80 battery shipping<br /> <br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> <br /> $97 (2) 30A Battery Management PCB http://www.batteryspace.com/pcbprotectioncircuitmodulefor4cells128vlifepo4batterypackat30alimited.aspx<br /> <br /> $11 USB to serial converter http://www.usbgear.com/computer_cable_details.cfm?sku=USBG-RS232-F12&amp;cats=199&amp;catid=482%2C199%2C601%2C461<br /> <br /> $8 3/8X24 Thread Mirror Mount: Wilson 901104<br /> $5 (20') Belden 8219 (RG58A/U) <br /> $3 (4) Amphenol 83-185-RFX (UG-175 reducer)<br /> $20 (4) Amphenol 83-822 (PL259)<br /> $10 shipping (theantennafarm.com)<br /> <br /> $79 Jansport Driver 8 TN89-008 UPC 757969203361 Wheeled Backpack (buy.com)<br /> <br /> $6 dual-band (2/440) whip with 3/8x24 mount (hamstick EDBW-1, Opek DB-1, or Workman DB-1) <br /> $4 (2) WORKKW2000A or CONXPARTSA (this is the power cord and connector pins)<br /> $3 (6 feet) Red &amp; Black DC wire 12 GA<br /> $9 shipping (k1cra.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (3') LMR-600 (showmecables.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 nuts (7/16&quot; head)<br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts<br /> $2 (8) 1/4&quot;-20 wingnuts<br /> $9 (10') 4&quot; drainpipe (we need one 7 3/4&quot; piece)<br /> $4 (2) 4&quot; drainpipe cap (home depot)<br /> <br /> $20 (5) littelfuse FHA30 12AWG inline fuse holder<br /> $3 (1) 5-pack of ATO 7.5 fuse (drillspot.com)<br /> <br /> $3 4' 14 gauge cable (for short part of radio power connector) (.62/ft)<br /> $1 4' 18 gauge cable (for battery sense +/- to pcb, low power wire on power cable) (.31/ft)<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (22-18) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $4 (1) 1/4&quot; (16-14) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (12-10) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $10 shipping (parts-express.com)<br /> <br /> (1) DB9F mouser 156-1309 0.80<br /> (4) BC546A mouser 512-BC546A 0.10<br /> (2) 5.6k 1/4w mouser 588-OD562JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (3) 10k 1/4w mouser 588-OD103JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (1) 3.5mm 3-pin plug (cw) (2 wires used) mouser 568-NYS231BG 1.69 (for cw jack)<br /> (1) 8-pin mini-din (cat) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2608 1.49<br /> (1) 6-pin mini-din (data) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2606 1.36<br /> (2) 600ohm 1:1 transformer mouser 42TL016-RC 1.66<br /> (2) 51 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD510JE 0.42<br /> (1) 1uf cap mouser 5989-100V1.0-F 0.71<br /> (1) .0047uf cap mouser 140-50P5-472K-RC 50v ceramic disc 0.12<br /> (1) 100 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD101JE 0.42 carbon comp 5%<br /> (1) 1k 1/4w mouser 588-OD102JE 0.42<br /> (1) board mouser 854-PR1593K $4.10 2.6 x 2.6<br /> (1) box mouser 546-1593KBK $2.88 (box is 2.6 x 2.6 x 1.1)<br /> (2) 2.2k resistor 1/2w carbon comp 5% mouser 588-OF222JE (1/4w mouser 588-OD222JE 0.42 not avail)<br /> (4) PL259 right angle Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U Mouser 523-83-1AP $14.70/ea<br /> (1) 2.5x5.5mm right angle plug (24AWG) power plug for tuner mouser 171-3216-EX $1.04/ea<br /> (2) ferrites - mouser 875-LFB187102-000 3.03/ea 3/4&quot; OD .400&quot; ID 1.125&quot; long (3 turns RG58 = 1000 ohm impedance @ 1-5mhz)<br /> (2) mouser 526-WH22-00-100 100' 22awg copper 7-strand hookup wire black nteinc.com $19 (use p/n 03-100 for orange) insulation OD 0.060&quot;<br /> (2) 3.5mm stereo jacks 502-35RAPC3BV4 2.73<br /> $112 total<br /> $12 shipping (mouser.com)<br /> <br /> $8 (1) 14-pack 3/8 ring terminal 16-14AWG (JT&amp;T 2011H - amazon.com)<br /> $18 (2) 8ft 3.5mm stereo cables (mediabridge - amazon.com)<br /> $3 21/64 (.3281&quot;) drill bit for 3/8-24 threads (amazon.com)<br /> $28 3' Aluminum 6061-T6 Seamless Round Tubing, WW-T 700/6, 1/2&quot; OD, 1/4&quot; ID, 1/8&quot; Wall, 36&quot; Length (amazon.com)<br /> $65 Opteka CFM300 68&quot; 5 Section 8x Carbon Fiber Monopod (amazon.com)<br /> $209 (1) PowerFilm F15-1200 20W solar panel 10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6 1 lb (amazon.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (4) EZ-Hook XM (digi-key 461-1004-ND)<br /> <br /> $2 Akro-Mils plastic dividers (Akro-Mils 40150 wasserstrom.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (8) 3/8-24 Jam Nuts 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (2) 3/8-24 Hex Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $10 (5) 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (10) 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer 316 Stainless Steel<br /> $7 shipping (fastener-warehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $7 (5') 1/4&quot; schedule 80 PVC pipe (usplastic.com)<br /> <br /> $14 (2) coleman 827E140T colthesline reel (coleman.com)<br /> <br /> $58 AT-271A/PRC antenna (ebay) OR $58 Voile Tourlight Avalanche Probe (8 foot) (voile-usa.com)<br /> Alternatively there are threaded snow probes at: http://us-warehouse.genuineguidegear.com/collections/probes/products/solid-probes<br /> <br /> $2 (2) 6&quot; tent stakes (rei.com)<br /> $2 (1) 4-pack of 10&quot; bungee cords (rei.com)<br /> $8 tax/shipping (rei.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) F-125-K Toroid Core 1.25&quot; 250-300 permeability low loss ferrite 1-30 mhz (theaudioguru.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (1) 1/4 lb Wire, 16ga (0.05&quot;) enameled (we need 4 feet for toroid) (allspectrum.com or jameco.com)<br /> <br /> $20 (1) 79-87283 DonJoy COMFORTFORM WRIST support-Small right (expressorthopedics.com - warning, it takes them a month to ship it)<br /> <br /> $8 Cables To Go 52030 - 6ft DB9 M/F All Lines Extension Cable Black (nextwarehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) 85085K8 25-pack nylon edge trim .065 gap width 3/16 opening, 15/64 height, 12 3/4 long<br /> $23 (1) 8871K71 80' (1 lb) spool .064&quot; (14ga) tin coated copper wire (spool says Arcor 14AWG)<br /> $2 (1) 91187A202 1.5&quot; 5/16-18 RHT stainless stud (or you can order a 10-pack for $4.55 with part number 95412A587)<br /> $10 (2) 95412A659 5-pack of 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud<br /> $9 tax/shipping (mcmaster.com)<br /> <br /> ==========<br /> $2518 approximate cost<br /> <br /> <br /> $? (1) stickyback velcro (attach tuner to radio mount)<br /> <br /> $? (1) velcro wire ties (attach coax to antenna mast)<br /> <br /> $? (1) 3/8-24 tap<br /> $? (1) 5/16-18 tap<br /> $? (1) Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box (for balun) 3x2x1&quot;<br /> <br /> $? (4) 30A (12-14AWG) red/black powerpole connector (1 for radio, 2 for batteries, 1 for AC/DC power supply)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==More Information==<br /> Here are some websites with great ideas for building backpack radios:<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://ec1cw.blogspot.com/2012/12/my-ft-857d-manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/321107979094<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_22/665730_Build_your_own_HF_manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://hfpack.com/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://pinztrek.com/radio/hfpack/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.dbbear.com/k0emt/projant/hfpack/</div> Mon, 03 Feb 2014 20:16:09 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:W7KI_Manpack_Radio http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/W7KI_Manpack_Radio <p>Rich:&#32;/* The Antenna */</p> <hr /> <div>[[File:FT857_and_tuner_in_pack.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;This article details how I set up a HF/VHF/UHF manpack radio.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> ==Overview==<br /> ===Design goals===<br /> Radio RF Output:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Minimum of 20W, preferable to have optional 50W+ available if needed<br /> Radio Frequency coverage:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : HF, 6 meters, 2 meters, and 70cm<br /> Radio Modes:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : FM/SSB/CW/PSK<br /> Radio receive current:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : preferably less than 700mA<br /> Tuner:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : 10-500ohm minimum, preferable little to no idle current<br /> Battery:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : sufficient to handle a weekend without recharging<br /> Power:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Battery, AC, or solar&lt;br&gt;<br /> Antenna:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Vertical or dipole with optional voltage balun<br /> PC:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Small netbook capable of digital modes<br /> Size:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Everything fits within a pack suitable for airplane carry-on (21x14x10&quot;).<br /> All items:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Weight as minimal as possible !<br /> Cost:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : $2500 neighborhood<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Radio===<br /> Here is a quick rundown of the radios I considered:&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Military radios==== <br /> : I looked at the PRC-104, PRC-132, PRC-138, PRC-320, PRC-1099, PRC-2000, and AEG SE-6861.<br /> : All of them are good radios. Only problem is I want HF/6/2/440 so I'm stuck<br /> : with looking at amateur radios.<br /> <br /> ====Vertex VX-1210====<br /> : This is a commercial radio ($1400+, 7.1lb w/batt, rx: 500mA, tx: 3A/5W, 5A/20W)<br /> : Very tempting but is HF only. Has option for internal autotuner and can be<br /> : set up for VFO operation. Battery is 14.4v 4AH.<br /> <br /> ====Mobat Micom 3 Pathfinder====<br /> : This is a 25W commercial radio. Excessive cost for this project. Otherwise a great radio !<br /> <br /> ====Outback radios (QMAC, Barrett, Codan)====<br /> : QMAC HF90 excessive cost &amp; no longer made, Barrett 940 too heavy (18.5lbs w/tuner battery)<br /> : Barrett 2040, Codan 2110 excessive cost.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-817ND====<br /> : Portable amateur radio ($600, 2.6lb, 8-16v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 2A/5W)<br /> : Tempting, and would pair nicely with LDG Z-817 tuner.<br /> : Only problem is I want 20W+. This could be accomplished with a Tokyo High Power HL-45B<br /> : amp ($400, 3.4 lbs, 8.5A/45W, 160-6m) + LDG Z-817H tuner.<br /> : This is a viable combination and has the benefit of low RX current.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC703+====<br /> : Amateur radio (discontinued, 4.4lb, 9-15.8v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 3A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Nice radio, big and easily readable display, built in autotuner. Wish it did 2m/440<br /> : like its bigger brother (IC-706).<br /> <br /> ====Elecraft KX3====<br /> : Portable amateur radio (new to market, 1.5lb, 8-14v(?), rx: 150-???mA, tx: ?A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Great display and control layout located on what would normally be considered the &quot;top&quot;<br /> : of the radio which gives ample room compared to other radios. Built in autotuner. CW paddles<br /> : right on front of the radio. I would have liked to see a little more than 10W however its<br /> : certainly a reasonable and usable amount of power (and better than 5W). Has option for <br /> : an external KXPA100 100W amp and KXAT100 tuner. Overall it is an exciting product and I <br /> : probably would have bought one if I wasn't looking to have 2m/440 in the same radio.<br /> : I don't know if it supports CTCSS for 10m FM repeaters and CTCSS/DCS for 6m FM repeaters.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC706MK2G====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 5.5lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1800-2000mA, tx: 20A/100W)<br /> : RX current way too high, VHF frontend easily overloads. Nice display as with the IC703<br /> : above. The RX current is a deal breaker for battery ops. <br /> <br /> ====Icom IC7000====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($1200, 5.1lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1300-1600mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : Nice radio. RX current better than IC706 but still a little on the high side for battery ops.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-897D====<br /> : Mobile/portable amateur radio ($900, 8.6lb, 11.7-15.9v, rx: 600-1000mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : HF/50 MHz:5 watts = 4.0-4.7 amps 10 watts = 5.3-6.4 amps 25 watts = 7.3-9.2 amps 50 watts = 10.6-12.9 amps<br /> : 144 MHz: 5 watts = 3.4 amps 10 watts = 4.2 amps 25 watts = 6.3 amps 50 watts = 9.4 amps<br /> : 420 MHz: 5 watts = 4.2 amps 10 watts = 5.6 amps 20 watts = 8.7 amps<br /> :<br /> : Designed for field ops and has room for internal batteries (13.2v, 9AH) however the batteries<br /> : add an additional 6.5lbs to a radio which is already heavy at 8.6lbs. One option is to run your<br /> : own external battery which gives you room to install an internal 120V power supply. Overall<br /> : I really like this radio but its ruggedness will cost you in weight. You can get the FT-857D<br /> : (sacrificing the 897's rugged case and internal battery space) and save 4lbs on your back.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-857D====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 4.6lb, 12.4-15.2v,<br /> : rx: 600-1000mA (spec) 650-700mA (green/red backlight) 590mA (backlight off)<br /> : tx: 2A/5W 5A/15W 22A/100W)<br /> : Unlike the FT-897D above, this radio does not come with a TCXO. By the time you spend $100 on<br /> : the TCXO you end up with about the same radio as the FT-897D for the same price. Comparing the<br /> : FT-857D to the FT-897D has some pluses: 4lbs lighter, detachable head, and easier to mount mobile.<br /> : The minuses are we don't get the rugged case and battery space. I don't think either of these<br /> : minuses will matter as the radio and batteries will end up in a pack. One other thing to note is<br /> : both the 857 and 897 will automatically limit the radio to 20W when running on battery power<br /> : (by grounding the brown wire on the power connector).<br /> : Spec says voltage is 12.4-15.2, manual says 11.73-15.87.<br /> : The 857's signal will start sounding bad at about 11.75v.<br /> <br /> Given everything above it came down to deciding between the FT-857D and FT-897D.&lt;br&gt;<br /> I chose the FT-857D because its 4lbs lighter than the FT-897D. Every pound counts when backpacking !&lt;br&gt;<br /> The radio is best equipped with: tcxo-9, keypad mic, (2) W4RT/inrad.net filters.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Tuner===<br /> For honorable mention we have the long-discontinued Kenwood AT-130 which is a very small 80-10m(+WARC)&lt;br&gt;<br /> manual tuner (6 x 2.4 x 6.3 inches, 3.5 lbs.). For field ops I prefer a small autotuner. Yaesu makes the&lt;br&gt;<br /> FC-30 ($170, 17-150 ohms, 3.1 x 1.8 x 10.2 in, 2.2 lbs) however its 17-150 ohm tuning range is quite&lt;br&gt;<br /> narrow compared to the LDG product line.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the breakdown of the LDG products I looked at. All of them have latching relays.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> : $200 LDG YT-100 for 857/897 100w 4-800 ohm 7 x 7 x 2 1.5lbs<br /> : $200 LDG AT-897+ for 857/897 100w 6-800 ohm 11.5 x 3.25 x 1.5 2.0lbs<br /> : $160 Z100+ ? 125w 6-800 ohm 5.5 x 5.5 x 1.5 1 lb w/o batts<br /> : $170 Z11pro2 6-1000 ohm 7.7 x 5.0 x 1.5 1.5lb w/o batts<br /> &lt;br&gt; <br /> I ended up going with the Z11pro2 as it can autotune based on RF sense which keeps the CAT and ACC ports free. This is good because we&lt;br&gt;<br /> need both ports for our data interface. Another bonus of RF sense tuning is it makes the radio PC-ALE capable provided the antenna is&lt;br&gt;<br /> tunable on whatever ALE frequencies are to be used.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device on the left is the data/soundcard interface&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[File:FT857_and_tuner.jpg]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Battery===<br /> The following text describes how to build a battery pack. If you do not want to build this battery pack then you can buy one already built. For example you can look up &quot;ZIPPY Flightmax 8400mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack&quot; which currently sells for about $75. You will need to find a suitable charger for it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> I initially considered using 11 Accupower NiMH low-discharge &quot;D&quot; cells (10aH, 1.25v, 145g ea.)&lt;br&gt;<br /> This would give us 13.75v, 10aH at 3.5lb for about $110.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After more research I went with (8) 40160S LiFePO4 batteries (16AH/ea). This project really only needs 4 of these<br /> batteries however I opted to build two battery packs. 4 of these batteries in series gives you around 13 volts.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The 40160S 16AH battery is no longer being sold. The manufacturer has replaced it with the 40152S 15AH battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Paired with each battery pack is a circuit which protects from overcharge/overdischarge/overcurrent. It also keeps the batteries balanced<br /> while charging. After a long search for a suitable lightweight container I found the 4-battery pack fits perfectly into a &quot;Huggies&quot;<br /> baby wipe plastic box. I cut a small slot in the box for a short piece of velcro which holds the lid closed. The complete pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If you intend on taking your backpack radio on a commercial aircraft, keep in mind there are restrictions on high capacity lithium ion batteries. If you believe this will be a problem you can build a pack from 11 NiMH D cells or use a pre-made NiMH RC pack. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Notice the top door works great for the powerpole.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is a view of the internals. The protection circuit board is on the top.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The AC adapter/charger===<br /> I wanted enough beef for the radio to do 20W off the adapter. I ended up getting IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter<br /> for about $14 off ebay. It is relatively small and weighs 0.4 lb. I run it through a bridge rectifier which reduces the voltage to 14.8V which is suitable for operating the radio and charging the battery pack. Of course running DC through a bridge rectifier only uses two of the four diodes however it was an inexpensive solution which is much easier than standalone diodes to mount to the cable/fuse.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I found that the battery pack can draw up to 8A during charging so I used a 10A fuse on the power supply. Yes, I know the power supply is only rated at 7.5A and putting a 10A fuse on it is not good practice. So far it hasn't been a problem. During charging the bridge rectifier can get quite hot so make sure it is on a non-flammable surface. The obvious solution to all this would be a series current limiting resistor which is something I'll look into when I get the time.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> For now I am charging the battery pack with a small smart charger (Noco Genius G3500) which is set for a standard 12V battery at a 3.5A charge rate. It just so happens that its output voltage on this setting is just right for charging the LiFePO4 battery. The Noco Genius is a handy little charger as it is also good for charging and topping off car batteries, AGM batteries, 12V 7AH brick batteries, etc. and it will float the batteries without overcharging them. Another nice thing about this charger is its small enough to fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ac_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Solar Panel===<br /> PowerFilm F15-1200 20W (10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6&quot; 1 lb )&lt;br&gt;<br /> Nice compact and light panel but a little pricey at $10/watt. I would have gone with their 30W panel but it was even more overpriced.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the solar panel<br /> [[File:W7ki_solar_panel.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Computer===<br /> EEEPC 1000h. Small battery-efficient netbook with 10&quot; screen. Used it because I had it on hand. Any netbook would probably do ok so<br /> long as it has mic/headphone jacks. One bonus of this particular computer is you can feed it 12VDC direct.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the computer<br /> [[File:W7ki_netbook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Data Interface===<br /> Homemade. Nothing fancy, just some audio isolation transformers, a level converter, and a PTT transistor.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The data interface and the tuner are attached to the mobile mounting bracket with velcro. Note how the mobile bracket is angled such that the front of the tuner is slightly elevated. This was done to give some clearance to the radio speaker and also helps to direct the audio out of the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_data_interface1.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Antenna===<br /> I looked at a variety of compact antennas (Outbacker Joey, Outbacker Stealth Plus, ATX-W38 walkabout, ATX-DHP, and a handful<br /> of others). It was difficult to find anything that would collapse to under 18 inches (requirement for the pack I'm using). It was probably just as well<br /> since many &quot;portable&quot; antennas are helical which I personally despise.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My original intent was to buy a &quot;Buddi&quot; product and evaluate how it worked in a vertical configuration. The only issue was whether their 80 meter coil would fit in the pack. I emailed them multiple times asking the dimensions of the coil but unfortunately all of my emails were ignored. This probably speaks volumes as to how they handle issues after a sale so I thought it best not to do business with them until their customer communication improves.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Of all the pre-made antennas I found The SuperAntenna MP1B SuperStick would likely be the best off the shelf solution as it collapses to 12 inches and weighs under 2 pounds. When I first wrote this article their company had no products available which I believe was due to a transition in ownership. Their products are now available again and I plan on trying one out. I would buy the MP1B antenna, TM1 mount, and optionally MC60 coil for 60 meters and MC80 coil for 80 meters. A properly adjusted SuperAntenna requires no tuner however you need to use a correct length ground radial. This is my recommendation if you do not want to build an antenna. The text past this point describes how to build an antenna/coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I ended up using a military AT271-A/PRC antenna. It is a 7 section antenna with a 3/8-24 base that extends to 113.5 inches and collapses to 17 inches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> It has an optional 8 inch spring (AB-129/PR) which I am not currently using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:At271a.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As an alternative I found an 8.5' collapsible aluminum pole made for measuring snowpacks and after some tinkering it worked like a charm. There is a threaded version which may work better (listed at the end of this article in the Parts Sources section).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pole_antenna.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Either of these antennas is very usable on HF when paired with a couple of 18&quot; aluminum extender rods and a large tapped coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_big_coil.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> Obviously running a huge coil with a short antenna is about as worthless as a short helical so its important to remember to use as much whip or longwire as you can if you<br /> are less than 1/4 wave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a horizontal option I built a tapped voltage balun which attaches to a vertical extension arm and connects to two spools of wire.<br /> [[File:W7ki_horiz_setup.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;The wire spools can also be used as a counterpoise for vertical configurations.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the bottom is a carbon fiber camera monopod which we use as a vertical extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the top is a carpal tunnel wrist strap which is used for attaching the monopod extension arm to the pack aluminum extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is wound on Coleman camping clothesline spools.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Another HF antenna option is to build the St. Louis Vertical: http://www.amqrp.org/projects/stluisvert/STLV%20Project.html&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For VHF/UHF I have a 17&quot; dual-band antenna. For VHF only you can also put one of the 18&quot; aluminum rods onto the 1&quot; antenna mount.&lt;br&gt;<br /> 6 meters can be done with the 17&quot; antenna on top of both 18&quot; rods.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Pack===<br /> I looked at dozens of packs before settling on the Jansport Driver 8. Most other packs were either oversized and/or too heavy.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My reasoning for a 21x14x10&quot; size limit is so you can carry this on a commercial airplane if you are traveling. You certainly wouldn't want<br /> to check this as luggage as it would probably get destroyed by handling or stolen.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Two main things I liked about the Driver 8 are the wheels and the telescoping arm. The telescoping arm is wonderful because it is very sturdy<br /> aluminum which allows you to securely attach an antenna to it. This is great for manpack operations if you want the antenna up while you are<br /> walking around with the pack on your back. It also works great for fixed operations as the pack itself can be used as an antenna base.<br /> The wheels not only give your back a break where smooth surfaces are available, they also give you the ability to easily lay down the pack when assembling a long antenna. Its like having a mini fold over tower.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The wheels are inline skate wheels and have a very low ground clearance. It will roll fine inside buildings or on a paved sidewalk. The wheels will not work on a trail. This is unfortunate as it is much easier to pull 35 lbs on wheels than to heft it on your back. One possible solution to this is to run a 1/2 inch rod (or thread stock?) along the bottom of the pack and install a pair of 10&quot; x 1.75 lightweight plastic wheels. I would use Martin Wheel part number 110 wheels because they come with metal ball bearings.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:w7ki_pack_radio.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Construction and Setup==<br /> A complete materials and sources list is at the end of this article.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Extension Rods and Antenna===<br /> To make the aluminum extension rods you need a 3 foot piece of aluminum rod. Cut the rod into 3 pieces, 2 of them will be 17 inches long and the third piece will be the remaining 2 inches.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take a 21/64 inch drill bit and drill about 1.5 inches into both ends of the 17 inch rods. Be careful to drill straight. Once this is done tap threads into both ends with a 3/8-24 tap. Tapping threads into aluminum generates a tremendous amount of heat so remember to tap slowly and use an oil lubricant. Right after tapping these rods I bumped one of them with my arm and got a very nasty burn.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the tapping is done thread a 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud into both ends of the rods. Then, for each rod, put a 3/8-24 jam nut over the stud on one end and put a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut over the stud on the other end. When you are done it should look like the picture below.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> This section deals with constructing the antenna if you chose not to buy an AT-271 antenna:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now grab the remaining 2 inch piece of aluminum rod. Drill one end 1 inch deep with a size F (.2443 inch) bit then drill the other end 1 inch deep with the 21/64 inch drill bit you used for the other rods. Tap 5/16-18 threads into the size F end and 3/8-24 threads into the 21/64 end.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take the aluminum snowpack pole, remove the lanyard string, push in the lower release spring button and shove it up the tube a couple inches, and tap the bottom for 5/16-18 threads. The two photos below show the start and finish of tapping the threads. I seriously do not recommend using vise-grips as shown in the photos. The antenna deforms very easily. It would be much better to lightly use a vise which can distribute the grip better with much less crush force. Again, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CRUSH OR DEFORM THE TUBE. I darn near destroyed the prototype using vise-grips.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Next we take a 1.5 inch 5/16-18 stud and thread half of it into the antenna. This is generally difficult to do so I recommend tightening two 5/16-18 nuts against each other onto the stud and use the outer nut with a wrench. Once the stud is threaded into the antenna you can thread the 2 inch aluminum rod onto the stud, then thread a 3/8-24 stud into the other end of the rod. Put a 3/8-24 jam nut onto the exposed threads. What you have done here is built a 5/16-18 to 3/8-24 thread adapter. The photo below shows what the finished product should look like.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rod_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The next step is to modify the antenna to make it conductive. The anodized surfaces do not conduct electricity so you need to take some sandpaper and sand out the inside of the bottom of each rod (about 3/4 inch should do). Another issue is the tapered inserts which are crimped into the top of the rods. These don't conduct either so you need to lightly bond them with an arc weld. This should be done with a MIG or TIG welder. Remember to sand the surfaces first, including the entire tapered section. I cheesed mine by using two truck batteries, a pair of jumper cables, and some real thin aluminum wire. Some people refer to this as hillbilly arc welding. Please don't do this unless you know the risks, know what you are doing, and you are using appropriate eye protection. Verify the end to end continuity of the antenna with an ohmmeter when you are done. Here is what mine looked like when it was done.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_hillbilly_weld.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The final step is to flatten out the pointed tip of the antenna rod. You can do this with a grinder or file.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Coil===<br /> The coil is made from a 7 3/4 inch piece of 4 inch diameter drainpipe with a drainpipe cap on each end. To make room for more coil turns we cut 1 3/8 inch off the end of the drainpipe cap. You need to cut two end caps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Locate the center of each cap, tap the center with a center punch or nail, drill a 1/8&quot; pilot hole, then drill in again with a 3/8&quot; bit.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now we take a piece of 1/4 inch schedule 80 pvc pipe and drill/tap it for 3/8-24 threads the same way you did the aluminum rods (except please don't use lubricating oil). Its important to use schedule 80 pipe as it has the correct inside diameter for tapping threads. The pipe should be about 7 1/2 inches long and later you might have to make some slight length adjustments for fit. Once your threads are tapped you can thread a 1.5 inch 3/8-24 stud into each end then put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer over the end (see photo below). Put one end into an end cap, put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer on the outside of the end cap, stack one 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal on top of the washer, and secure it with a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut stacked on top of the ring terminal.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Put the other end cap on. On the outside stack a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer, a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal, and a 3/8-24 jam nut.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to cover up any holes in the drainpipe with a square of duct tape.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To make the coil, glue 4 pieces of .065 Nylon Edge Trim as shown in the photo (credit to Phil AD5X for finding this edge trim). When cutting them to length, remember to offset each one to correctly accommodate a spirally-wound coil. Once this is done, drill a .065&quot; diagonal hole from the edge of the cap through the top of each cap (see photo), thread the wire through the hole and wind the coil with .064&quot; (14AWG) tin coated copper wire. Remember to keep tension on the coil or else it will wind loosely. The wire is stiff and doesn't come off the coil perfectly so there will be some manual coil alignment/straightening to do after the coil is wound. Once the coil is wound, put the ends thorough the 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminals, then cut &amp; solder. Be careful of heat damage to the plastic while soldering. Its usually best to loosen the end nuts prior to soldering as it will conduct less heat away from the ring terminals.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_end.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The coil tap is an EZ-Hook XM attached to a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal with an 11 inch piece of 22-gauge 7-strand insulated hookup wire. Attach the ring terminal above the coil ring terminal as shown in the photo.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_tap.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The EZ-Hook XM works great for 17AWG wire however its a little small for our 14AWG coil. The hook can be slightly adjusted with needlenose pliers to fit the 14AWG wire. The picture below shows the modified hook profile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ezhook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As built, the coil specs out like this: 7&quot; length, 4.25&quot; dia, 50 turns, 14ga .063 (spaced) = 129uH&lt;br&gt;<br /> Its a little overkill on the size &amp; inductance but it gives a lot of flexibility with short antennas.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Balun===<br /> The balun is based on a design by WB6ZQZ. His design appears to be a bifilar current balun in series with a quadrifilar voltage balun. We are only interested in the quadrifilar transformer because we will be using an external ferrite choke on the feedline (which allows us to use the choke for antenna configurations that don't use the voltage balun). Here is a link to instructions on how to wind the quadrifilar transformer:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> http://www.antennalaunchers.com/trb/photos.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Use 16ga enameled wire and a F-125-K toroid. Once the transformer is wound you can mount it on a small piece of plastic with holes drilled for the wires. Attach the wires to each other as per his schematic diagram and PC board photos.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mount the completed toroid into a 3x2x1 inch Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box. Install an SO-239 connector into the bottom of the box. For terminals I used (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts/nuts/wingnuts which are available at a home-improvement store. Label the terminals for Common, 50, 25, and 12 ohms. Attach a short piece of velcro to the back side which allows for mounting.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Antenna Mount &amp; Wire Spools===<br /> The antenna mount uses 1/4-20 hardware. I recommend replacing two of the nuts with wingnuts. Cut an 11 foot piece of Belden 8219 RG58A/U and loop it twice through two Laird LFB187102 ferrites as shown in the photo below. The coax fits tightly and we do not want to stretch it while pulling it through the ferrites so use a non-petroleum lubricant (I used cooking spray). Once this is done you can put UG-175/U reducers on the cable and solder a PL259 connector on each end.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_choke.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is spooled on a (2) Coleman 827E140T colthesline reels (thanks to Richard WA6KYR for finding these). Each Coleman reel comes with 21 feet of nylon cord. Pull all the cord out and cut off 13 feet so there is 8 feet remaining on the spool. Attach 59 1/2 feet of 22AWG insulated hookup wire to the end of the nylon cord. You can do this by stripping the end of the wire and pushing it through the middle of the nylon cord about 1/2 inch from the end, then secure the end of the nylon cord by lightly melting it with a lighter or soldering iron. Now you can reel in the wire. If it gets stuck you can open the reel with a 1/3 turn of the enclosure shell. Attach a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal to the end of the wire.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you are wondering why we use 59 1/2 feet it is because its the only length available that is reasonably close for loading at 75-80m and is not an even 1/2-wavelength multiple of any amateur band from 6m-40m (in fact we can go +/- 3 feet before bumping into one of these multiples. You should be able to roll this out to full length and tune any amateur band from 80m-6m. It also makes a good antenna to use with ALE and our RF-sensing tuner.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Battery===<br /> Each battery pack is made of (4) 40160S LiFePO4 cells (3.2V 16Ah) with a battery management circuit put into a Huggies wipe box.<br /> The battery management circuit sits on top of a plastic board which is an Akro-Mils 40150 (3.3 x 7.7 x 0.1 inch). Mount the batteries in the plastic holders, wire them in series with the bus bars, mount the battery management circuit, then wire it in. I recommend using a 30 amp fuse as pictured. Once this is done attach a 30A (12-14AWG) Powerpole connector with 12-gauge wire. The battery management circuit will charge the battery up to 14.2v before it automatically cuts off. The charger should be at least 14.6v.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each 40160S cell is rated at 3.65V (Max Charge), 3.2V (Nominal), and 2.0V (Discharge cut off).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Max charge current is 5C (80A) and max discharge current is 10C (160A).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cell life is rated at 2000 charge/discharge cycles under normal use.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete battery pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Data Interface===<br /> The data interface consists of audio isolation transformers, an RS232 level converter, and a PTT transistor. The audio circuit is per the &quot;KK7UQ Interface Model II&quot; circuit although I chose not to use the potentiometers and solid state relay in the original design. The original design and documentation can be found here:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://kk7uq.com/html/download/Manual2E.pdf<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The RS232 level converter is per a circuit attributed to OE1RIB.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I decided not to go with the Yaseu CT62 cable because I wanted the ability to use the DTR line for PTT (which is much cleaner for automated CW than keying with serial commands). Don't get me wrong here, I prefer a key, however flexibility was one of the design goals. I modified the level converter circuit to take power from the radio rather than trying to rob it from DTR/CTS with diodes. There is also a DPDT toggle switch on the back of the data interface which is an &quot;OFF&quot; switch (cuts the power from the radio and cuts the PTT line). I looked at off-the-shelf interfaces and most of them were either too big or required power for the audio circuitry.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Use a USB-serial converter if your computer doesn't have a serial port. I recommend using converters with the FTDI chipset for best performance and OS compatibility (I used USBG-RS232-F12 from usbgear.com).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the actual circuit I used to build the data interface:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to leave clearance for the jacks and switches when laying out the components on the PC board.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Velcro attachment<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Mounted to radio<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To connect the interface box to the radio I used a short piece of cat5 network cable wired like this&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT RD W-Br&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT TD W-G&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT + Br-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT GND G-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Data Out12 O-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data In W-Bl&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data PTT W-O&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data GND Bl-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The mini-din connectors go in very tight so beware of non-functioning or partial connections when you do this. Once you get them seated properly they work great and stay in place. Make sure to notch the back of the connector sleeves so the cables can exit at 90 degrees. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In the above photo you will also notice a connector/adapter contraption covered with electrical tape. These UHF right-angle adapters were used because the radio rests on its back side in the pack and we don't want the weight of the radio sitting on a PL259 connector and pinching the coax. All UHF right-angle adapters are not created equal. Most of them are garbage and use a small internal spring to connect the center conductor. The correct part to use is Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U. The adapter connecting the radio to the tuner is two of the Amphenol right-angle adapters connected with a short piece of LMR-600 with the center conductor diameter ground down from 0.176&quot; to 0.157&quot;. The length of the LMR600 and the mounting position of the tuner are critical because you don't want to obstruct the ports on the rear of the radio. As you can see in the photo below, this arrangement makes the back of the radio very compact which helps it fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_back.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Power Wiring===<br /> On the power supply you can add a third powerpole connector which is jumped to ground. When the third connector is also done on the radio side (connected to the radio brown wire) it forces the radio to 20W when plugged into the supply. This is good because our power supply is only rated for 7.5 amps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The power cable is 24 inches of 12-gauge red/black zipcord with a third wire for sensing low-power mode. Additionally it has a 16 inch length of zipcord for the tuner with a 2.5x5.5mm right-angle connector. As with the OEM cable, the 12-gauge cable splits off into two 14-gauge cables at the connector. You will notice that there are no fuses on this cable. I didn't bother because all my power sources for the pack are fused. In hindsight it would be prudent to put 30A fuses on both the positive and negative wires.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Third Powerpole connector for low power sense.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Connector end detail<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Monopod===<br /> The monopod is used to elevate the feedpoint of the dipole or a short vertical antenna. It is carbon fiber, weighs only 19oz, and extends to 68&quot;.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The monopod needs to be shortened to fit into the pack. Going around the perimeter of the small end rod, cut off the bottom half of the top rubber cap. This will allow the rod to collapse about an additional 1/2 inch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The bottom cap can be removed by pushing in the two roll pins with a small center punch. Then, with the rod fully collapsed, you will see there is about 13/16 inch you can saw off the big end without hitting the smaller rods that collapse inside of it. The photo below shows it after the cut.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Radio setup===<br /> Here is how I set mine up&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 7.000mhz<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to on.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 19&quot; (CAT Rate). Set it to 9600.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 29&quot; (CW Sidetone). Set it to 5.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 38&quot; (Dig Mode). Set it to PSK31-U.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 59&quot; (Mic Sel). Set it to RMT if you are using the MH-59A8J mic.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 86&quot; (TX IF Filter). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 2.3<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 50.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 144.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 20.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 446.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 10.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Enable 2.3kc filter for TX:<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push FUNC, rotate select to N, press 2.3 (above B key)<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ==Usage==<br /> The most basic setup is pulling the aluminum pack handle up one notch and attaching the mount/antenna. This can be used for a quick base setup or walking around with the pack on your back. The photo below shows the mount and 2m/70cm whip installed. If you want a somewhat useful counterpoise for 6m/2m/70cm without attaching the counterpoise wire, simply invert the feedline such that the chokes are by the radio instead of by the antenna. This way you can use the coax itself for a counterpoise. Its certainly not the best way to do it but it will work.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each aluminum rod is 18&quot; and you can use one of them by itself for a 2m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rods2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you use both rods with the 2m/70cm whip on top you will have a 6m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> You can use the monopod to elevate the a 6m/2m/70cm antenna. We use the carpal tunnel wrist strap to attach the monopod to the packs aluminum handle. The next photo looks like the leaning tower of Pisa because my first prototype was done with a medium-sized wrist strap. I have since moved to a small-sized strap which makes it stand much straighter. The monopod is good for 6m/2m/70cm verticals and for holding the feedpoint of a dipole. Do not use the monopod with the 8-foot antenna rod and/or the large loading coil as it gets too top heavy to remain stable. The following photo shows the ground radials installed and the choke ferrite near the antenna feedpoint. For a simpler setup you can skip the ground radials and invert the feedline (so the choke ferrites are near the radio) which will make the feedline act as a counterpoise. Yes I know this was said earlier in the article but its worth repeating.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_8.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Detail of antenna mount attached to the monopod pole<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_9.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The collapsible antenna by itself will work as a quarter-wave on 10m (pictured below) and should also tune up ok on 12m. It will work as a quarter-wave on 15m if you add the two aluminum extension rods.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Attaching the coil (tapped on the lowest turn) to the antenna base with the two aluminum rods above it will tune down to 80m. This configuration will have near zero efficiency however it will allow short-range communication on 75/80m while walking around with the pack on your back.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The best vertical configuration for 80m thru 17m is attaching the two rods to the base, putting the coil on top of the rods, then putting the collapsible aluminum antenna rod on top. It is best to tilt the pack over on its wheels and assemble the antenna on the ground.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once its assembled, tilt it up by lifting the aluminum arm on the pack. The weight of the batteries do a good job of keeping the antenna in place.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you want to try 160 meters you can remove the 8 foot whip and connect one of the 59-foot wire spools to the top of the coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a dipole configuration you can strap the balun to the top of the monopod and connect our spools of wire to it. Dipoles work best when they are at least 1/4 wave above the ground. Our feedpoint impedance will typically be much less than 50 ohms because in most cases we will be less than 1/4 wave off the ground. This will be especially noticeable on 40m/80m. Attach one wire to the &quot;C&quot; (common) balun terminal and attach the other wire to either the 12, 25, or 50 ohm terminal depending on which one works best. The wire spools use 3/8 ring terminals so we can optionally connect them directly to the vertical antenna mount if you want to feed a dipole directly without the balun.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One other important thing to note about dipoles is its best to keep the ends up off the ground. There is 8 feet of nylon rope at the end of the spools which can help in getting your wire somewhere it can be secured. In my pack I also keep short plastic tent stakes and short bungee cords which can help in some situations.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_10.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> There are a few other odds &amp; ends I keep in the pack. The PL-259 center to ring terminal adapter is for using the voltage balun with the vertical antenna. The Powerpole &quot;Y&quot; cable is for running the AC adapter or solar charger while using the radio. The short 3/8-24 bolt is for attaching a dipole wire directly to the antenna mount or to the top of the coil. There are also two 8-foot stereo cables for the data adapter and a 10-foot serial cable (not pictured). (I chose 8-10' cables to keep the computer RF a little ways away from the radio/antenna). At the bottom is the usb/serial adapter and on the bottom right are short velcro cable ties for attaching the feedline to the monopole and/or aluminum pack handle.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_misc.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is how it all fits into the pack<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_11.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete pack with both batteries and the computer weighs 35 lbs.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The weight can be substantially reduced by removing the spare battery, AC adapter, computer (if you don't need it), and any antenna parts you don't plan on using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In case you are wondering where the CW key/paddles are, I'm still working on finding a solution that works well with this portable setup.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Two that have been recommended are the Mini Paddle from Milestone Technologies and the Traveler Light from Begali.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Parts &amp; Prices==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> $799 FT857D w/YSK857<br /> $95 TCXO-9<br /> $82 MH-59A8J DTMF mic (also needed for direct freq entry)<br /> <br /> $120 W4RT2.3khz ssb filter<br /> $169 Z-11pro2<br /> <br /> $14 IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter (ebay)<br /> $2 bridge rectifier KBPC5010 (ebay)<br /> <br /> $144 (8) 16ah 40160s lifepo4 $24/ea (bmsbattery.com or manzanitamicro.com)<br /> $3 (8) 40160S battery holders 0.40/ea<br /> $4 (8) 40160S bus bar connectors 0.50/ea<br /> $80 battery shipping<br /> <br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> <br /> $97 (2) 30A Battery Management PCB http://www.batteryspace.com/pcbprotectioncircuitmodulefor4cells128vlifepo4batterypackat30alimited.aspx<br /> <br /> $11 USB to serial converter http://www.usbgear.com/computer_cable_details.cfm?sku=USBG-RS232-F12&amp;cats=199&amp;catid=482%2C199%2C601%2C461<br /> <br /> $8 3/8X24 Thread Mirror Mount: Wilson 901104<br /> $5 (20') Belden 8219 (RG58A/U) <br /> $3 (4) Amphenol 83-185-RFX (UG-175 reducer)<br /> $20 (4) Amphenol 83-822 (PL259)<br /> $10 shipping (theantennafarm.com)<br /> <br /> $79 Jansport Driver 8 TN89-008 UPC 757969203361 Wheeled Backpack (buy.com)<br /> <br /> $6 dual-band (2/440) whip with 3/8x24 mount (hamstick EDBW-1, Opek DB-1, or Workman DB-1) <br /> $4 (2) WORKKW2000A or CONXPARTSA (this is the power cord and connector pins)<br /> $3 (6 feet) Red &amp; Black DC wire 12 GA<br /> $9 shipping (k1cra.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (3') LMR-600 (showmecables.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 nuts (7/16&quot; head)<br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts<br /> $2 (8) 1/4&quot;-20 wingnuts<br /> $9 (10') 4&quot; drainpipe (we need one 7 3/4&quot; piece)<br /> $4 (2) 4&quot; drainpipe cap (home depot)<br /> <br /> $20 (5) littelfuse FHA30 12AWG inline fuse holder<br /> $3 (1) 5-pack of ATO 7.5 fuse (drillspot.com)<br /> <br /> $3 4' 14 gauge cable (for short part of radio power connector) (.62/ft)<br /> $1 4' 18 gauge cable (for battery sense +/- to pcb, low power wire on power cable) (.31/ft)<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (22-18) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $4 (1) 1/4&quot; (16-14) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (12-10) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $10 shipping (parts-express.com)<br /> <br /> (1) DB9F mouser 156-1309 0.80<br /> (4) BC546A mouser 512-BC546A 0.10<br /> (2) 5.6k 1/4w mouser 588-OD562JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (3) 10k 1/4w mouser 588-OD103JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (1) 3.5mm 3-pin plug (cw) (2 wires used) mouser 568-NYS231BG 1.69 (for cw jack)<br /> (1) 8-pin mini-din (cat) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2608 1.49<br /> (1) 6-pin mini-din (data) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2606 1.36<br /> (2) 600ohm 1:1 transformer mouser 42TL016-RC 1.66<br /> (2) 51 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD510JE 0.42<br /> (1) 1uf cap mouser 5989-100V1.0-F 0.71<br /> (1) .0047uf cap mouser 140-50P5-472K-RC 50v ceramic disc 0.12<br /> (1) 100 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD101JE 0.42 carbon comp 5%<br /> (1) 1k 1/4w mouser 588-OD102JE 0.42<br /> (1) board mouser 854-PR1593K $4.10 2.6 x 2.6<br /> (1) box mouser 546-1593KBK $2.88 (box is 2.6 x 2.6 x 1.1)<br /> (2) 2.2k resistor 1/2w carbon comp 5% mouser 588-OF222JE (1/4w mouser 588-OD222JE 0.42 not avail)<br /> (4) PL259 right angle Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U Mouser 523-83-1AP $14.70/ea<br /> (1) 2.5x5.5mm right angle plug (24AWG) power plug for tuner mouser 171-3216-EX $1.04/ea<br /> (2) ferrites - mouser 875-LFB187102-000 3.03/ea 3/4&quot; OD .400&quot; ID 1.125&quot; long (3 turns RG58 = 1000 ohm impedance @ 1-5mhz)<br /> (2) mouser 526-WH22-00-100 100' 22awg copper 7-strand hookup wire black nteinc.com $19 (use p/n 03-100 for orange) insulation OD 0.060&quot;<br /> (2) 3.5mm stereo jacks 502-35RAPC3BV4 2.73<br /> $112 total<br /> $12 shipping (mouser.com)<br /> <br /> $8 (1) 14-pack 3/8 ring terminal 16-14AWG (JT&amp;T 2011H - amazon.com)<br /> $18 (2) 8ft 3.5mm stereo cables (mediabridge - amazon.com)<br /> $3 21/64 (.3281&quot;) drill bit for 3/8-24 threads (amazon.com)<br /> $28 3' Aluminum 6061-T6 Seamless Round Tubing, WW-T 700/6, 1/2&quot; OD, 1/4&quot; ID, 1/8&quot; Wall, 36&quot; Length (amazon.com)<br /> $65 Opteka CFM300 68&quot; 5 Section 8x Carbon Fiber Monopod (amazon.com)<br /> $209 (1) PowerFilm F15-1200 20W solar panel 10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6 1 lb (amazon.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (4) EZ-Hook XM (digi-key 461-1004-ND)<br /> <br /> $2 Akro-Mils plastic dividers (Akro-Mils 40150 wasserstrom.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (8) 3/8-24 Jam Nuts 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (2) 3/8-24 Hex Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $10 (5) 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (10) 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer 316 Stainless Steel<br /> $7 shipping (fastener-warehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $7 (5') 1/4&quot; schedule 80 PVC pipe (usplastic.com)<br /> <br /> $14 (2) coleman 827E140T colthesline reel (coleman.com)<br /> <br /> $58 AT-271A/PRC antenna (ebay) OR $58 Voile Tourlight Avalanche Probe (8 foot) (voile-usa.com)<br /> <br /> $2 (2) 6&quot; tent stakes (rei.com)<br /> $2 (1) 4-pack of 10&quot; bungee cords (rei.com)<br /> $8 tax/shipping (rei.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) F-125-K Toroid Core 1.25&quot; 250-300 permeability low loss ferrite 1-30 mhz (theaudioguru.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (1) 1/4 lb Wire, 16ga (0.05&quot;) enameled (we need 4 feet for toroid) (allspectrum.com or jameco.com)<br /> <br /> $20 (1) 79-87283 DonJoy COMFORTFORM WRIST support-Small right (expressorthopedics.com - warning, it takes them a month to ship it)<br /> <br /> $8 Cables To Go 52030 - 6ft DB9 M/F All Lines Extension Cable Black (nextwarehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) 85085K8 25-pack nylon edge trim .065 gap width 3/16 opening, 15/64 height, 12 3/4 long<br /> $23 (1) 8871K71 80' (1 lb) spool .064&quot; (14ga) tin coated copper wire (spool says Arcor 14AWG)<br /> $2 (1) 91187A202 1.5&quot; 5/16-18 RHT stainless stud (or you can order a 10-pack for $4.55 with part number 95412A587)<br /> $10 (2) 95412A659 5-pack of 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud<br /> $9 tax/shipping (mcmaster.com)<br /> <br /> ==========<br /> $2518 approximate cost<br /> <br /> <br /> $? (1) stickyback velcro (attach tuner to radio mount)<br /> <br /> $? (1) velcro wire ties (attach coax to antenna mast)<br /> <br /> $? (1) 3/8-24 tap<br /> $? (1) 5/16-18 tap<br /> $? (1) Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box (for balun) 3x2x1&quot;<br /> <br /> $? (4) 30A (12-14AWG) red/black powerpole connector (1 for radio, 2 for batteries, 1 for AC/DC power supply)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==More Information==<br /> Here are some websites with great ideas for building backpack radios:<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://ec1cw.blogspot.com/2012/12/my-ft-857d-manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/321107979094<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_22/665730_Build_your_own_HF_manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://hfpack.com/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://pinztrek.com/radio/hfpack/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.dbbear.com/k0emt/projant/hfpack/</div> Mon, 03 Feb 2014 20:14:11 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:W7KI_Manpack_Radio http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/W7KI_Manpack_Radio <p>Rich:&#32;/* Extension Rods and Antenna */</p> <hr /> <div>[[File:FT857_and_tuner_in_pack.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;This article details how I set up a HF/VHF/UHF manpack radio.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> ==Overview==<br /> ===Design goals===<br /> Radio RF Output:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Minimum of 20W, preferable to have optional 50W+ available if needed<br /> Radio Frequency coverage:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : HF, 6 meters, 2 meters, and 70cm<br /> Radio Modes:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : FM/SSB/CW/PSK<br /> Radio receive current:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : preferably less than 700mA<br /> Tuner:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : 10-500ohm minimum, preferable little to no idle current<br /> Battery:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : sufficient to handle a weekend without recharging<br /> Power:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Battery, AC, or solar&lt;br&gt;<br /> Antenna:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Vertical or dipole with optional voltage balun<br /> PC:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Small netbook capable of digital modes<br /> Size:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Everything fits within a pack suitable for airplane carry-on (21x14x10&quot;).<br /> All items:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Weight as minimal as possible !<br /> Cost:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : $2500 neighborhood<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Radio===<br /> Here is a quick rundown of the radios I considered:&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Military radios==== <br /> : I looked at the PRC-104, PRC-132, PRC-138, PRC-320, PRC-1099, PRC-2000, and AEG SE-6861.<br /> : All of them are good radios. Only problem is I want HF/6/2/440 so I'm stuck<br /> : with looking at amateur radios.<br /> <br /> ====Vertex VX-1210====<br /> : This is a commercial radio ($1400+, 7.1lb w/batt, rx: 500mA, tx: 3A/5W, 5A/20W)<br /> : Very tempting but is HF only. Has option for internal autotuner and can be<br /> : set up for VFO operation. Battery is 14.4v 4AH.<br /> <br /> ====Mobat Micom 3 Pathfinder====<br /> : This is a 25W commercial radio. Excessive cost for this project. Otherwise a great radio !<br /> <br /> ====Outback radios (QMAC, Barrett, Codan)====<br /> : QMAC HF90 excessive cost &amp; no longer made, Barrett 940 too heavy (18.5lbs w/tuner battery)<br /> : Barrett 2040, Codan 2110 excessive cost.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-817ND====<br /> : Portable amateur radio ($600, 2.6lb, 8-16v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 2A/5W)<br /> : Tempting, and would pair nicely with LDG Z-817 tuner.<br /> : Only problem is I want 20W+. This could be accomplished with a Tokyo High Power HL-45B<br /> : amp ($400, 3.4 lbs, 8.5A/45W, 160-6m) + LDG Z-817H tuner.<br /> : This is a viable combination and has the benefit of low RX current.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC703+====<br /> : Amateur radio (discontinued, 4.4lb, 9-15.8v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 3A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Nice radio, big and easily readable display, built in autotuner. Wish it did 2m/440<br /> : like its bigger brother (IC-706).<br /> <br /> ====Elecraft KX3====<br /> : Portable amateur radio (new to market, 1.5lb, 8-14v(?), rx: 150-???mA, tx: ?A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Great display and control layout located on what would normally be considered the &quot;top&quot;<br /> : of the radio which gives ample room compared to other radios. Built in autotuner. CW paddles<br /> : right on front of the radio. I would have liked to see a little more than 10W however its<br /> : certainly a reasonable and usable amount of power (and better than 5W). Has option for <br /> : an external KXPA100 100W amp and KXAT100 tuner. Overall it is an exciting product and I <br /> : probably would have bought one if I wasn't looking to have 2m/440 in the same radio.<br /> : I don't know if it supports CTCSS for 10m FM repeaters and CTCSS/DCS for 6m FM repeaters.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC706MK2G====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 5.5lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1800-2000mA, tx: 20A/100W)<br /> : RX current way too high, VHF frontend easily overloads. Nice display as with the IC703<br /> : above. The RX current is a deal breaker for battery ops. <br /> <br /> ====Icom IC7000====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($1200, 5.1lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1300-1600mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : Nice radio. RX current better than IC706 but still a little on the high side for battery ops.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-897D====<br /> : Mobile/portable amateur radio ($900, 8.6lb, 11.7-15.9v, rx: 600-1000mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : HF/50 MHz:5 watts = 4.0-4.7 amps 10 watts = 5.3-6.4 amps 25 watts = 7.3-9.2 amps 50 watts = 10.6-12.9 amps<br /> : 144 MHz: 5 watts = 3.4 amps 10 watts = 4.2 amps 25 watts = 6.3 amps 50 watts = 9.4 amps<br /> : 420 MHz: 5 watts = 4.2 amps 10 watts = 5.6 amps 20 watts = 8.7 amps<br /> :<br /> : Designed for field ops and has room for internal batteries (13.2v, 9AH) however the batteries<br /> : add an additional 6.5lbs to a radio which is already heavy at 8.6lbs. One option is to run your<br /> : own external battery which gives you room to install an internal 120V power supply. Overall<br /> : I really like this radio but its ruggedness will cost you in weight. You can get the FT-857D<br /> : (sacrificing the 897's rugged case and internal battery space) and save 4lbs on your back.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-857D====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 4.6lb, 12.4-15.2v,<br /> : rx: 600-1000mA (spec) 650-700mA (green/red backlight) 590mA (backlight off)<br /> : tx: 2A/5W 5A/15W 22A/100W)<br /> : Unlike the FT-897D above, this radio does not come with a TCXO. By the time you spend $100 on<br /> : the TCXO you end up with about the same radio as the FT-897D for the same price. Comparing the<br /> : FT-857D to the FT-897D has some pluses: 4lbs lighter, detachable head, and easier to mount mobile.<br /> : The minuses are we don't get the rugged case and battery space. I don't think either of these<br /> : minuses will matter as the radio and batteries will end up in a pack. One other thing to note is<br /> : both the 857 and 897 will automatically limit the radio to 20W when running on battery power<br /> : (by grounding the brown wire on the power connector).<br /> : Spec says voltage is 12.4-15.2, manual says 11.73-15.87.<br /> : The 857's signal will start sounding bad at about 11.75v.<br /> <br /> Given everything above it came down to deciding between the FT-857D and FT-897D.&lt;br&gt;<br /> I chose the FT-857D because its 4lbs lighter than the FT-897D. Every pound counts when backpacking !&lt;br&gt;<br /> The radio is best equipped with: tcxo-9, keypad mic, (2) W4RT/inrad.net filters.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Tuner===<br /> For honorable mention we have the long-discontinued Kenwood AT-130 which is a very small 80-10m(+WARC)&lt;br&gt;<br /> manual tuner (6 x 2.4 x 6.3 inches, 3.5 lbs.). For field ops I prefer a small autotuner. Yaesu makes the&lt;br&gt;<br /> FC-30 ($170, 17-150 ohms, 3.1 x 1.8 x 10.2 in, 2.2 lbs) however its 17-150 ohm tuning range is quite&lt;br&gt;<br /> narrow compared to the LDG product line.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the breakdown of the LDG products I looked at. All of them have latching relays.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> : $200 LDG YT-100 for 857/897 100w 4-800 ohm 7 x 7 x 2 1.5lbs<br /> : $200 LDG AT-897+ for 857/897 100w 6-800 ohm 11.5 x 3.25 x 1.5 2.0lbs<br /> : $160 Z100+ ? 125w 6-800 ohm 5.5 x 5.5 x 1.5 1 lb w/o batts<br /> : $170 Z11pro2 6-1000 ohm 7.7 x 5.0 x 1.5 1.5lb w/o batts<br /> &lt;br&gt; <br /> I ended up going with the Z11pro2 as it can autotune based on RF sense which keeps the CAT and ACC ports free. This is good because we&lt;br&gt;<br /> need both ports for our data interface. Another bonus of RF sense tuning is it makes the radio PC-ALE capable provided the antenna is&lt;br&gt;<br /> tunable on whatever ALE frequencies are to be used.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device on the left is the data/soundcard interface&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[File:FT857_and_tuner.jpg]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Battery===<br /> The following text describes how to build a battery pack. If you do not want to build this battery pack then you can buy one already built. For example you can look up &quot;ZIPPY Flightmax 8400mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack&quot; which currently sells for about $75. You will need to find a suitable charger for it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> I initially considered using 11 Accupower NiMH low-discharge &quot;D&quot; cells (10aH, 1.25v, 145g ea.)&lt;br&gt;<br /> This would give us 13.75v, 10aH at 3.5lb for about $110.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After more research I went with (8) 40160S LiFePO4 batteries (16AH/ea). This project really only needs 4 of these<br /> batteries however I opted to build two battery packs. 4 of these batteries in series gives you around 13 volts.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The 40160S 16AH battery is no longer being sold. The manufacturer has replaced it with the 40152S 15AH battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Paired with each battery pack is a circuit which protects from overcharge/overdischarge/overcurrent. It also keeps the batteries balanced<br /> while charging. After a long search for a suitable lightweight container I found the 4-battery pack fits perfectly into a &quot;Huggies&quot;<br /> baby wipe plastic box. I cut a small slot in the box for a short piece of velcro which holds the lid closed. The complete pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If you intend on taking your backpack radio on a commercial aircraft, keep in mind there are restrictions on high capacity lithium ion batteries. If you believe this will be a problem you can build a pack from 11 NiMH D cells or use a pre-made NiMH RC pack. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Notice the top door works great for the powerpole.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is a view of the internals. The protection circuit board is on the top.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The AC adapter/charger===<br /> I wanted enough beef for the radio to do 20W off the adapter. I ended up getting IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter<br /> for about $14 off ebay. It is relatively small and weighs 0.4 lb. I run it through a bridge rectifier which reduces the voltage to 14.8V which is suitable for operating the radio and charging the battery pack. Of course running DC through a bridge rectifier only uses two of the four diodes however it was an inexpensive solution which is much easier than standalone diodes to mount to the cable/fuse.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I found that the battery pack can draw up to 8A during charging so I used a 10A fuse on the power supply. Yes, I know the power supply is only rated at 7.5A and putting a 10A fuse on it is not good practice. So far it hasn't been a problem. During charging the bridge rectifier can get quite hot so make sure it is on a non-flammable surface. The obvious solution to all this would be a series current limiting resistor which is something I'll look into when I get the time.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> For now I am charging the battery pack with a small smart charger (Noco Genius G3500) which is set for a standard 12V battery at a 3.5A charge rate. It just so happens that its output voltage on this setting is just right for charging the LiFePO4 battery. The Noco Genius is a handy little charger as it is also good for charging and topping off car batteries, AGM batteries, 12V 7AH brick batteries, etc. and it will float the batteries without overcharging them. Another nice thing about this charger is its small enough to fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ac_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Solar Panel===<br /> PowerFilm F15-1200 20W (10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6&quot; 1 lb )&lt;br&gt;<br /> Nice compact and light panel but a little pricey at $10/watt. I would have gone with their 30W panel but it was even more overpriced.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the solar panel<br /> [[File:W7ki_solar_panel.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Computer===<br /> EEEPC 1000h. Small battery-efficient netbook with 10&quot; screen. Used it because I had it on hand. Any netbook would probably do ok so<br /> long as it has mic/headphone jacks. One bonus of this particular computer is you can feed it 12VDC direct.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the computer<br /> [[File:W7ki_netbook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Data Interface===<br /> Homemade. Nothing fancy, just some audio isolation transformers, a level converter, and a PTT transistor.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The data interface and the tuner are attached to the mobile mounting bracket with velcro. Note how the mobile bracket is angled such that the front of the tuner is slightly elevated. This was done to give some clearance to the radio speaker and also helps to direct the audio out of the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_data_interface1.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Antenna===<br /> I looked at a variety of compact antennas (Outbacker Joey, Outbacker Stealth Plus, ATX-W38 walkabout, ATX-DHP, and a handful<br /> of others). It was difficult to find anything that would collapse to under 18 inches (requirement for the pack I'm using). It was probably just as well<br /> since many &quot;portable&quot; antennas are helical which I personally despise.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My original intent was to buy a &quot;Buddi&quot; product and evaluate how it worked in a vertical configuration. The only issue was whether their 80 meter coil would fit in the pack. I emailed them multiple times asking the dimensions of the coil but unfortunately all of my emails were ignored. This probably speaks volumes as to how they handle issues after a sale so I thought it best not to do business with them until their customer communication improves.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Of all the pre-made antennas I found The SuperAntenna MP1B SuperStick would likely be the best off the shelf solution as it collapses to 12 inches and weighs under 2 pounds. When I first wrote this article their company had no products available which I believe was due to a transition in ownership. Their products are now available again and I plan on trying one out. I would buy the MP1B antenna, TM1 mount, and optionally MC60 coil for 60 meters and MC80 coil for 80 meters. A properly adjusted SuperAntenna requires no tuner however you need to use a correct length ground radial. This is my recommendation if you do not want to build an antenna. The text past this point describes how to build an antenna/coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I ended up using a military AT271-A/PRC antenna. It is a 7 section antenna with a 3/8-24 base that extends to 113.5 inches and collapses to 17 inches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> It has an optional 8 inch spring (AB-129/PR) which I am not currently using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:At271a.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As an alternative I found an 8.5' collapsible aluminum pole made for measuring snowpacks and after some tinkering it worked like a charm.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pole_antenna.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Either of these antennas is very usable on HF when paired with a couple of 18&quot; aluminum extender rods and a large tapped coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_big_coil.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> Obviously running a huge coil with a short antenna is about as worthless as a short helical so its important to remember to use as much whip or longwire as you can if you<br /> are less than 1/4 wave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a horizontal option I built a tapped voltage balun which attaches to a vertical extension arm and connects to two spools of wire.<br /> [[File:W7ki_horiz_setup.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;The wire spools can also be used as a counterpoise for vertical configurations.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the bottom is a carbon fiber camera monopod which we use as a vertical extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the top is a carpal tunnel wrist strap which is used for attaching the monopod extension arm to the pack aluminum extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is wound on Coleman camping clothesline spools.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Another HF antenna option is to build the St. Louis Vertical: http://www.amqrp.org/projects/stluisvert/STLV%20Project.html&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For VHF/UHF I have a 17&quot; dual-band antenna. For VHF only you can also put one of the 18&quot; aluminum rods onto the 1&quot; antenna mount.&lt;br&gt;<br /> 6 meters can be done with the 17&quot; antenna on top of both 18&quot; rods.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Pack===<br /> I looked at dozens of packs before settling on the Jansport Driver 8. Most other packs were either oversized and/or too heavy.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My reasoning for a 21x14x10&quot; size limit is so you can carry this on a commercial airplane if you are traveling. You certainly wouldn't want<br /> to check this as luggage as it would probably get destroyed by handling or stolen.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Two main things I liked about the Driver 8 are the wheels and the telescoping arm. The telescoping arm is wonderful because it is very sturdy<br /> aluminum which allows you to securely attach an antenna to it. This is great for manpack operations if you want the antenna up while you are<br /> walking around with the pack on your back. It also works great for fixed operations as the pack itself can be used as an antenna base.<br /> The wheels not only give your back a break where smooth surfaces are available, they also give you the ability to easily lay down the pack when assembling a long antenna. Its like having a mini fold over tower.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The wheels are inline skate wheels and have a very low ground clearance. It will roll fine inside buildings or on a paved sidewalk. The wheels will not work on a trail. This is unfortunate as it is much easier to pull 35 lbs on wheels than to heft it on your back. One possible solution to this is to run a 1/2 inch rod (or thread stock?) along the bottom of the pack and install a pair of 10&quot; x 1.75 lightweight plastic wheels. I would use Martin Wheel part number 110 wheels because they come with metal ball bearings.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:w7ki_pack_radio.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Construction and Setup==<br /> A complete materials and sources list is at the end of this article.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Extension Rods and Antenna===<br /> To make the aluminum extension rods you need a 3 foot piece of aluminum rod. Cut the rod into 3 pieces, 2 of them will be 17 inches long and the third piece will be the remaining 2 inches.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take a 21/64 inch drill bit and drill about 1.5 inches into both ends of the 17 inch rods. Be careful to drill straight. Once this is done tap threads into both ends with a 3/8-24 tap. Tapping threads into aluminum generates a tremendous amount of heat so remember to tap slowly and use an oil lubricant. Right after tapping these rods I bumped one of them with my arm and got a very nasty burn.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the tapping is done thread a 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud into both ends of the rods. Then, for each rod, put a 3/8-24 jam nut over the stud on one end and put a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut over the stud on the other end. When you are done it should look like the picture below.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> This section deals with constructing the antenna if you chose not to buy an AT-271 antenna:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now grab the remaining 2 inch piece of aluminum rod. Drill one end 1 inch deep with a size F (.2443 inch) bit then drill the other end 1 inch deep with the 21/64 inch drill bit you used for the other rods. Tap 5/16-18 threads into the size F end and 3/8-24 threads into the 21/64 end.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take the aluminum snowpack pole, remove the lanyard string, push in the lower release spring button and shove it up the tube a couple inches, and tap the bottom for 5/16-18 threads. The two photos below show the start and finish of tapping the threads. I seriously do not recommend using vise-grips as shown in the photos. The antenna deforms very easily. It would be much better to lightly use a vise which can distribute the grip better with much less crush force. Again, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CRUSH OR DEFORM THE TUBE. I darn near destroyed the prototype using vise-grips.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Next we take a 1.5 inch 5/16-18 stud and thread half of it into the antenna. This is generally difficult to do so I recommend tightening two 5/16-18 nuts against each other onto the stud and use the outer nut with a wrench. Once the stud is threaded into the antenna you can thread the 2 inch aluminum rod onto the stud, then thread a 3/8-24 stud into the other end of the rod. Put a 3/8-24 jam nut onto the exposed threads. What you have done here is built a 5/16-18 to 3/8-24 thread adapter. The photo below shows what the finished product should look like.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rod_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The next step is to modify the antenna to make it conductive. The anodized surfaces do not conduct electricity so you need to take some sandpaper and sand out the inside of the bottom of each rod (about 3/4 inch should do). Another issue is the tapered inserts which are crimped into the top of the rods. These don't conduct either so you need to lightly bond them with an arc weld. This should be done with a MIG or TIG welder. Remember to sand the surfaces first, including the entire tapered section. I cheesed mine by using two truck batteries, a pair of jumper cables, and some real thin aluminum wire. Some people refer to this as hillbilly arc welding. Please don't do this unless you know the risks, know what you are doing, and you are using appropriate eye protection. Verify the end to end continuity of the antenna with an ohmmeter when you are done. Here is what mine looked like when it was done.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_hillbilly_weld.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The final step is to flatten out the pointed tip of the antenna rod. You can do this with a grinder or file.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Coil===<br /> The coil is made from a 7 3/4 inch piece of 4 inch diameter drainpipe with a drainpipe cap on each end. To make room for more coil turns we cut 1 3/8 inch off the end of the drainpipe cap. You need to cut two end caps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Locate the center of each cap, tap the center with a center punch or nail, drill a 1/8&quot; pilot hole, then drill in again with a 3/8&quot; bit.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now we take a piece of 1/4 inch schedule 80 pvc pipe and drill/tap it for 3/8-24 threads the same way you did the aluminum rods (except please don't use lubricating oil). Its important to use schedule 80 pipe as it has the correct inside diameter for tapping threads. The pipe should be about 7 1/2 inches long and later you might have to make some slight length adjustments for fit. Once your threads are tapped you can thread a 1.5 inch 3/8-24 stud into each end then put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer over the end (see photo below). Put one end into an end cap, put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer on the outside of the end cap, stack one 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal on top of the washer, and secure it with a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut stacked on top of the ring terminal.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Put the other end cap on. On the outside stack a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer, a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal, and a 3/8-24 jam nut.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to cover up any holes in the drainpipe with a square of duct tape.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To make the coil, glue 4 pieces of .065 Nylon Edge Trim as shown in the photo (credit to Phil AD5X for finding this edge trim). When cutting them to length, remember to offset each one to correctly accommodate a spirally-wound coil. Once this is done, drill a .065&quot; diagonal hole from the edge of the cap through the top of each cap (see photo), thread the wire through the hole and wind the coil with .064&quot; (14AWG) tin coated copper wire. Remember to keep tension on the coil or else it will wind loosely. The wire is stiff and doesn't come off the coil perfectly so there will be some manual coil alignment/straightening to do after the coil is wound. Once the coil is wound, put the ends thorough the 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminals, then cut &amp; solder. Be careful of heat damage to the plastic while soldering. Its usually best to loosen the end nuts prior to soldering as it will conduct less heat away from the ring terminals.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_end.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The coil tap is an EZ-Hook XM attached to a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal with an 11 inch piece of 22-gauge 7-strand insulated hookup wire. Attach the ring terminal above the coil ring terminal as shown in the photo.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_tap.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The EZ-Hook XM works great for 17AWG wire however its a little small for our 14AWG coil. The hook can be slightly adjusted with needlenose pliers to fit the 14AWG wire. The picture below shows the modified hook profile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ezhook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As built, the coil specs out like this: 7&quot; length, 4.25&quot; dia, 50 turns, 14ga .063 (spaced) = 129uH&lt;br&gt;<br /> Its a little overkill on the size &amp; inductance but it gives a lot of flexibility with short antennas.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Balun===<br /> The balun is based on a design by WB6ZQZ. His design appears to be a bifilar current balun in series with a quadrifilar voltage balun. We are only interested in the quadrifilar transformer because we will be using an external ferrite choke on the feedline (which allows us to use the choke for antenna configurations that don't use the voltage balun). Here is a link to instructions on how to wind the quadrifilar transformer:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> http://www.antennalaunchers.com/trb/photos.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Use 16ga enameled wire and a F-125-K toroid. Once the transformer is wound you can mount it on a small piece of plastic with holes drilled for the wires. Attach the wires to each other as per his schematic diagram and PC board photos.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mount the completed toroid into a 3x2x1 inch Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box. Install an SO-239 connector into the bottom of the box. For terminals I used (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts/nuts/wingnuts which are available at a home-improvement store. Label the terminals for Common, 50, 25, and 12 ohms. Attach a short piece of velcro to the back side which allows for mounting.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Antenna Mount &amp; Wire Spools===<br /> The antenna mount uses 1/4-20 hardware. I recommend replacing two of the nuts with wingnuts. Cut an 11 foot piece of Belden 8219 RG58A/U and loop it twice through two Laird LFB187102 ferrites as shown in the photo below. The coax fits tightly and we do not want to stretch it while pulling it through the ferrites so use a non-petroleum lubricant (I used cooking spray). Once this is done you can put UG-175/U reducers on the cable and solder a PL259 connector on each end.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_choke.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is spooled on a (2) Coleman 827E140T colthesline reels (thanks to Richard WA6KYR for finding these). Each Coleman reel comes with 21 feet of nylon cord. Pull all the cord out and cut off 13 feet so there is 8 feet remaining on the spool. Attach 59 1/2 feet of 22AWG insulated hookup wire to the end of the nylon cord. You can do this by stripping the end of the wire and pushing it through the middle of the nylon cord about 1/2 inch from the end, then secure the end of the nylon cord by lightly melting it with a lighter or soldering iron. Now you can reel in the wire. If it gets stuck you can open the reel with a 1/3 turn of the enclosure shell. Attach a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal to the end of the wire.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you are wondering why we use 59 1/2 feet it is because its the only length available that is reasonably close for loading at 75-80m and is not an even 1/2-wavelength multiple of any amateur band from 6m-40m (in fact we can go +/- 3 feet before bumping into one of these multiples. You should be able to roll this out to full length and tune any amateur band from 80m-6m. It also makes a good antenna to use with ALE and our RF-sensing tuner.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Battery===<br /> Each battery pack is made of (4) 40160S LiFePO4 cells (3.2V 16Ah) with a battery management circuit put into a Huggies wipe box.<br /> The battery management circuit sits on top of a plastic board which is an Akro-Mils 40150 (3.3 x 7.7 x 0.1 inch). Mount the batteries in the plastic holders, wire them in series with the bus bars, mount the battery management circuit, then wire it in. I recommend using a 30 amp fuse as pictured. Once this is done attach a 30A (12-14AWG) Powerpole connector with 12-gauge wire. The battery management circuit will charge the battery up to 14.2v before it automatically cuts off. The charger should be at least 14.6v.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each 40160S cell is rated at 3.65V (Max Charge), 3.2V (Nominal), and 2.0V (Discharge cut off).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Max charge current is 5C (80A) and max discharge current is 10C (160A).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cell life is rated at 2000 charge/discharge cycles under normal use.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete battery pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Data Interface===<br /> The data interface consists of audio isolation transformers, an RS232 level converter, and a PTT transistor. The audio circuit is per the &quot;KK7UQ Interface Model II&quot; circuit although I chose not to use the potentiometers and solid state relay in the original design. The original design and documentation can be found here:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://kk7uq.com/html/download/Manual2E.pdf<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The RS232 level converter is per a circuit attributed to OE1RIB.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I decided not to go with the Yaseu CT62 cable because I wanted the ability to use the DTR line for PTT (which is much cleaner for automated CW than keying with serial commands). Don't get me wrong here, I prefer a key, however flexibility was one of the design goals. I modified the level converter circuit to take power from the radio rather than trying to rob it from DTR/CTS with diodes. There is also a DPDT toggle switch on the back of the data interface which is an &quot;OFF&quot; switch (cuts the power from the radio and cuts the PTT line). I looked at off-the-shelf interfaces and most of them were either too big or required power for the audio circuitry.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Use a USB-serial converter if your computer doesn't have a serial port. I recommend using converters with the FTDI chipset for best performance and OS compatibility (I used USBG-RS232-F12 from usbgear.com).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the actual circuit I used to build the data interface:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to leave clearance for the jacks and switches when laying out the components on the PC board.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Velcro attachment<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Mounted to radio<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To connect the interface box to the radio I used a short piece of cat5 network cable wired like this&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT RD W-Br&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT TD W-G&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT + Br-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT GND G-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Data Out12 O-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data In W-Bl&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data PTT W-O&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data GND Bl-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The mini-din connectors go in very tight so beware of non-functioning or partial connections when you do this. Once you get them seated properly they work great and stay in place. Make sure to notch the back of the connector sleeves so the cables can exit at 90 degrees. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In the above photo you will also notice a connector/adapter contraption covered with electrical tape. These UHF right-angle adapters were used because the radio rests on its back side in the pack and we don't want the weight of the radio sitting on a PL259 connector and pinching the coax. All UHF right-angle adapters are not created equal. Most of them are garbage and use a small internal spring to connect the center conductor. The correct part to use is Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U. The adapter connecting the radio to the tuner is two of the Amphenol right-angle adapters connected with a short piece of LMR-600 with the center conductor diameter ground down from 0.176&quot; to 0.157&quot;. The length of the LMR600 and the mounting position of the tuner are critical because you don't want to obstruct the ports on the rear of the radio. As you can see in the photo below, this arrangement makes the back of the radio very compact which helps it fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_back.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Power Wiring===<br /> On the power supply you can add a third powerpole connector which is jumped to ground. When the third connector is also done on the radio side (connected to the radio brown wire) it forces the radio to 20W when plugged into the supply. This is good because our power supply is only rated for 7.5 amps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The power cable is 24 inches of 12-gauge red/black zipcord with a third wire for sensing low-power mode. Additionally it has a 16 inch length of zipcord for the tuner with a 2.5x5.5mm right-angle connector. As with the OEM cable, the 12-gauge cable splits off into two 14-gauge cables at the connector. You will notice that there are no fuses on this cable. I didn't bother because all my power sources for the pack are fused. In hindsight it would be prudent to put 30A fuses on both the positive and negative wires.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Third Powerpole connector for low power sense.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Connector end detail<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Monopod===<br /> The monopod is used to elevate the feedpoint of the dipole or a short vertical antenna. It is carbon fiber, weighs only 19oz, and extends to 68&quot;.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The monopod needs to be shortened to fit into the pack. Going around the perimeter of the small end rod, cut off the bottom half of the top rubber cap. This will allow the rod to collapse about an additional 1/2 inch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The bottom cap can be removed by pushing in the two roll pins with a small center punch. Then, with the rod fully collapsed, you will see there is about 13/16 inch you can saw off the big end without hitting the smaller rods that collapse inside of it. The photo below shows it after the cut.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Radio setup===<br /> Here is how I set mine up&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 7.000mhz<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to on.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 19&quot; (CAT Rate). Set it to 9600.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 29&quot; (CW Sidetone). Set it to 5.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 38&quot; (Dig Mode). Set it to PSK31-U.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 59&quot; (Mic Sel). Set it to RMT if you are using the MH-59A8J mic.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 86&quot; (TX IF Filter). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 2.3<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 50.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 144.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 20.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 446.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 10.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Enable 2.3kc filter for TX:<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push FUNC, rotate select to N, press 2.3 (above B key)<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ==Usage==<br /> The most basic setup is pulling the aluminum pack handle up one notch and attaching the mount/antenna. This can be used for a quick base setup or walking around with the pack on your back. The photo below shows the mount and 2m/70cm whip installed. If you want a somewhat useful counterpoise for 6m/2m/70cm without attaching the counterpoise wire, simply invert the feedline such that the chokes are by the radio instead of by the antenna. This way you can use the coax itself for a counterpoise. Its certainly not the best way to do it but it will work.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each aluminum rod is 18&quot; and you can use one of them by itself for a 2m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rods2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you use both rods with the 2m/70cm whip on top you will have a 6m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> You can use the monopod to elevate the a 6m/2m/70cm antenna. We use the carpal tunnel wrist strap to attach the monopod to the packs aluminum handle. The next photo looks like the leaning tower of Pisa because my first prototype was done with a medium-sized wrist strap. I have since moved to a small-sized strap which makes it stand much straighter. The monopod is good for 6m/2m/70cm verticals and for holding the feedpoint of a dipole. Do not use the monopod with the 8-foot antenna rod and/or the large loading coil as it gets too top heavy to remain stable. The following photo shows the ground radials installed and the choke ferrite near the antenna feedpoint. For a simpler setup you can skip the ground radials and invert the feedline (so the choke ferrites are near the radio) which will make the feedline act as a counterpoise. Yes I know this was said earlier in the article but its worth repeating.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_8.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Detail of antenna mount attached to the monopod pole<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_9.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The collapsible antenna by itself will work as a quarter-wave on 10m (pictured below) and should also tune up ok on 12m. It will work as a quarter-wave on 15m if you add the two aluminum extension rods.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Attaching the coil (tapped on the lowest turn) to the antenna base with the two aluminum rods above it will tune down to 80m. This configuration will have near zero efficiency however it will allow short-range communication on 75/80m while walking around with the pack on your back.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The best vertical configuration for 80m thru 17m is attaching the two rods to the base, putting the coil on top of the rods, then putting the collapsible aluminum antenna rod on top. It is best to tilt the pack over on its wheels and assemble the antenna on the ground.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once its assembled, tilt it up by lifting the aluminum arm on the pack. The weight of the batteries do a good job of keeping the antenna in place.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you want to try 160 meters you can remove the 8 foot whip and connect one of the 59-foot wire spools to the top of the coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a dipole configuration you can strap the balun to the top of the monopod and connect our spools of wire to it. Dipoles work best when they are at least 1/4 wave above the ground. Our feedpoint impedance will typically be much less than 50 ohms because in most cases we will be less than 1/4 wave off the ground. This will be especially noticeable on 40m/80m. Attach one wire to the &quot;C&quot; (common) balun terminal and attach the other wire to either the 12, 25, or 50 ohm terminal depending on which one works best. The wire spools use 3/8 ring terminals so we can optionally connect them directly to the vertical antenna mount if you want to feed a dipole directly without the balun.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One other important thing to note about dipoles is its best to keep the ends up off the ground. There is 8 feet of nylon rope at the end of the spools which can help in getting your wire somewhere it can be secured. In my pack I also keep short plastic tent stakes and short bungee cords which can help in some situations.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_10.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> There are a few other odds &amp; ends I keep in the pack. The PL-259 center to ring terminal adapter is for using the voltage balun with the vertical antenna. The Powerpole &quot;Y&quot; cable is for running the AC adapter or solar charger while using the radio. The short 3/8-24 bolt is for attaching a dipole wire directly to the antenna mount or to the top of the coil. There are also two 8-foot stereo cables for the data adapter and a 10-foot serial cable (not pictured). (I chose 8-10' cables to keep the computer RF a little ways away from the radio/antenna). At the bottom is the usb/serial adapter and on the bottom right are short velcro cable ties for attaching the feedline to the monopole and/or aluminum pack handle.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_misc.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is how it all fits into the pack<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_11.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete pack with both batteries and the computer weighs 35 lbs.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The weight can be substantially reduced by removing the spare battery, AC adapter, computer (if you don't need it), and any antenna parts you don't plan on using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In case you are wondering where the CW key/paddles are, I'm still working on finding a solution that works well with this portable setup.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Two that have been recommended are the Mini Paddle from Milestone Technologies and the Traveler Light from Begali.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Parts &amp; Prices==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> $799 FT857D w/YSK857<br /> $95 TCXO-9<br /> $82 MH-59A8J DTMF mic (also needed for direct freq entry)<br /> <br /> $120 W4RT2.3khz ssb filter<br /> $169 Z-11pro2<br /> <br /> $14 IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter (ebay)<br /> $2 bridge rectifier KBPC5010 (ebay)<br /> <br /> $144 (8) 16ah 40160s lifepo4 $24/ea (bmsbattery.com or manzanitamicro.com)<br /> $3 (8) 40160S battery holders 0.40/ea<br /> $4 (8) 40160S bus bar connectors 0.50/ea<br /> $80 battery shipping<br /> <br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> <br /> $97 (2) 30A Battery Management PCB http://www.batteryspace.com/pcbprotectioncircuitmodulefor4cells128vlifepo4batterypackat30alimited.aspx<br /> <br /> $11 USB to serial converter http://www.usbgear.com/computer_cable_details.cfm?sku=USBG-RS232-F12&amp;cats=199&amp;catid=482%2C199%2C601%2C461<br /> <br /> $8 3/8X24 Thread Mirror Mount: Wilson 901104<br /> $5 (20') Belden 8219 (RG58A/U) <br /> $3 (4) Amphenol 83-185-RFX (UG-175 reducer)<br /> $20 (4) Amphenol 83-822 (PL259)<br /> $10 shipping (theantennafarm.com)<br /> <br /> $79 Jansport Driver 8 TN89-008 UPC 757969203361 Wheeled Backpack (buy.com)<br /> <br /> $6 dual-band (2/440) whip with 3/8x24 mount (hamstick EDBW-1, Opek DB-1, or Workman DB-1) <br /> $4 (2) WORKKW2000A or CONXPARTSA (this is the power cord and connector pins)<br /> $3 (6 feet) Red &amp; Black DC wire 12 GA<br /> $9 shipping (k1cra.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (3') LMR-600 (showmecables.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 nuts (7/16&quot; head)<br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts<br /> $2 (8) 1/4&quot;-20 wingnuts<br /> $9 (10') 4&quot; drainpipe (we need one 7 3/4&quot; piece)<br /> $4 (2) 4&quot; drainpipe cap (home depot)<br /> <br /> $20 (5) littelfuse FHA30 12AWG inline fuse holder<br /> $3 (1) 5-pack of ATO 7.5 fuse (drillspot.com)<br /> <br /> $3 4' 14 gauge cable (for short part of radio power connector) (.62/ft)<br /> $1 4' 18 gauge cable (for battery sense +/- to pcb, low power wire on power cable) (.31/ft)<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (22-18) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $4 (1) 1/4&quot; (16-14) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (12-10) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $10 shipping (parts-express.com)<br /> <br /> (1) DB9F mouser 156-1309 0.80<br /> (4) BC546A mouser 512-BC546A 0.10<br /> (2) 5.6k 1/4w mouser 588-OD562JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (3) 10k 1/4w mouser 588-OD103JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (1) 3.5mm 3-pin plug (cw) (2 wires used) mouser 568-NYS231BG 1.69 (for cw jack)<br /> (1) 8-pin mini-din (cat) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2608 1.49<br /> (1) 6-pin mini-din (data) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2606 1.36<br /> (2) 600ohm 1:1 transformer mouser 42TL016-RC 1.66<br /> (2) 51 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD510JE 0.42<br /> (1) 1uf cap mouser 5989-100V1.0-F 0.71<br /> (1) .0047uf cap mouser 140-50P5-472K-RC 50v ceramic disc 0.12<br /> (1) 100 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD101JE 0.42 carbon comp 5%<br /> (1) 1k 1/4w mouser 588-OD102JE 0.42<br /> (1) board mouser 854-PR1593K $4.10 2.6 x 2.6<br /> (1) box mouser 546-1593KBK $2.88 (box is 2.6 x 2.6 x 1.1)<br /> (2) 2.2k resistor 1/2w carbon comp 5% mouser 588-OF222JE (1/4w mouser 588-OD222JE 0.42 not avail)<br /> (4) PL259 right angle Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U Mouser 523-83-1AP $14.70/ea<br /> (1) 2.5x5.5mm right angle plug (24AWG) power plug for tuner mouser 171-3216-EX $1.04/ea<br /> (2) ferrites - mouser 875-LFB187102-000 3.03/ea 3/4&quot; OD .400&quot; ID 1.125&quot; long (3 turns RG58 = 1000 ohm impedance @ 1-5mhz)<br /> (2) mouser 526-WH22-00-100 100' 22awg copper 7-strand hookup wire black nteinc.com $19 (use p/n 03-100 for orange) insulation OD 0.060&quot;<br /> (2) 3.5mm stereo jacks 502-35RAPC3BV4 2.73<br /> $112 total<br /> $12 shipping (mouser.com)<br /> <br /> $8 (1) 14-pack 3/8 ring terminal 16-14AWG (JT&amp;T 2011H - amazon.com)<br /> $18 (2) 8ft 3.5mm stereo cables (mediabridge - amazon.com)<br /> $3 21/64 (.3281&quot;) drill bit for 3/8-24 threads (amazon.com)<br /> $28 3' Aluminum 6061-T6 Seamless Round Tubing, WW-T 700/6, 1/2&quot; OD, 1/4&quot; ID, 1/8&quot; Wall, 36&quot; Length (amazon.com)<br /> $65 Opteka CFM300 68&quot; 5 Section 8x Carbon Fiber Monopod (amazon.com)<br /> $209 (1) PowerFilm F15-1200 20W solar panel 10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6 1 lb (amazon.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (4) EZ-Hook XM (digi-key 461-1004-ND)<br /> <br /> $2 Akro-Mils plastic dividers (Akro-Mils 40150 wasserstrom.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (8) 3/8-24 Jam Nuts 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (2) 3/8-24 Hex Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $10 (5) 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (10) 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer 316 Stainless Steel<br /> $7 shipping (fastener-warehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $7 (5') 1/4&quot; schedule 80 PVC pipe (usplastic.com)<br /> <br /> $14 (2) coleman 827E140T colthesline reel (coleman.com)<br /> <br /> $58 AT-271A/PRC antenna (ebay) OR $58 Voile Tourlight Avalanche Probe (8 foot) (voile-usa.com)<br /> <br /> $2 (2) 6&quot; tent stakes (rei.com)<br /> $2 (1) 4-pack of 10&quot; bungee cords (rei.com)<br /> $8 tax/shipping (rei.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) F-125-K Toroid Core 1.25&quot; 250-300 permeability low loss ferrite 1-30 mhz (theaudioguru.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (1) 1/4 lb Wire, 16ga (0.05&quot;) enameled (we need 4 feet for toroid) (allspectrum.com or jameco.com)<br /> <br /> $20 (1) 79-87283 DonJoy COMFORTFORM WRIST support-Small right (expressorthopedics.com - warning, it takes them a month to ship it)<br /> <br /> $8 Cables To Go 52030 - 6ft DB9 M/F All Lines Extension Cable Black (nextwarehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) 85085K8 25-pack nylon edge trim .065 gap width 3/16 opening, 15/64 height, 12 3/4 long<br /> $23 (1) 8871K71 80' (1 lb) spool .064&quot; (14ga) tin coated copper wire (spool says Arcor 14AWG)<br /> $2 (1) 91187A202 1.5&quot; 5/16-18 RHT stainless stud (or you can order a 10-pack for $4.55 with part number 95412A587)<br /> $10 (2) 95412A659 5-pack of 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud<br /> $9 tax/shipping (mcmaster.com)<br /> <br /> ==========<br /> $2518 approximate cost<br /> <br /> <br /> $? (1) stickyback velcro (attach tuner to radio mount)<br /> <br /> $? (1) velcro wire ties (attach coax to antenna mast)<br /> <br /> $? (1) 3/8-24 tap<br /> $? (1) 5/16-18 tap<br /> $? (1) Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box (for balun) 3x2x1&quot;<br /> <br /> $? (4) 30A (12-14AWG) red/black powerpole connector (1 for radio, 2 for batteries, 1 for AC/DC power supply)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==More Information==<br /> Here are some websites with great ideas for building backpack radios:<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://ec1cw.blogspot.com/2012/12/my-ft-857d-manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/321107979094<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_22/665730_Build_your_own_HF_manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://hfpack.com/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://pinztrek.com/radio/hfpack/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.dbbear.com/k0emt/projant/hfpack/</div> Mon, 03 Feb 2014 20:12:30 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:W7KI_Manpack_Radio http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/W7KI_Manpack_Radio <p>Rich:&#32;/* Parts &amp; Prices */</p> <hr /> <div>[[File:FT857_and_tuner_in_pack.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;This article details how I set up a HF/VHF/UHF manpack radio.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> ==Overview==<br /> ===Design goals===<br /> Radio RF Output:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Minimum of 20W, preferable to have optional 50W+ available if needed<br /> Radio Frequency coverage:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : HF, 6 meters, 2 meters, and 70cm<br /> Radio Modes:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : FM/SSB/CW/PSK<br /> Radio receive current:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : preferably less than 700mA<br /> Tuner:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : 10-500ohm minimum, preferable little to no idle current<br /> Battery:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : sufficient to handle a weekend without recharging<br /> Power:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Battery, AC, or solar&lt;br&gt;<br /> Antenna:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Vertical or dipole with optional voltage balun<br /> PC:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Small netbook capable of digital modes<br /> Size:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Everything fits within a pack suitable for airplane carry-on (21x14x10&quot;).<br /> All items:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Weight as minimal as possible !<br /> Cost:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : $2500 neighborhood<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Radio===<br /> Here is a quick rundown of the radios I considered:&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Military radios==== <br /> : I looked at the PRC-104, PRC-132, PRC-138, PRC-320, PRC-1099, PRC-2000, and AEG SE-6861.<br /> : All of them are good radios. Only problem is I want HF/6/2/440 so I'm stuck<br /> : with looking at amateur radios.<br /> <br /> ====Vertex VX-1210====<br /> : This is a commercial radio ($1400+, 7.1lb w/batt, rx: 500mA, tx: 3A/5W, 5A/20W)<br /> : Very tempting but is HF only. Has option for internal autotuner and can be<br /> : set up for VFO operation. Battery is 14.4v 4AH.<br /> <br /> ====Mobat Micom 3 Pathfinder====<br /> : This is a 25W commercial radio. Excessive cost for this project. Otherwise a great radio !<br /> <br /> ====Outback radios (QMAC, Barrett, Codan)====<br /> : QMAC HF90 excessive cost &amp; no longer made, Barrett 940 too heavy (18.5lbs w/tuner battery)<br /> : Barrett 2040, Codan 2110 excessive cost.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-817ND====<br /> : Portable amateur radio ($600, 2.6lb, 8-16v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 2A/5W)<br /> : Tempting, and would pair nicely with LDG Z-817 tuner.<br /> : Only problem is I want 20W+. This could be accomplished with a Tokyo High Power HL-45B<br /> : amp ($400, 3.4 lbs, 8.5A/45W, 160-6m) + LDG Z-817H tuner.<br /> : This is a viable combination and has the benefit of low RX current.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC703+====<br /> : Amateur radio (discontinued, 4.4lb, 9-15.8v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 3A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Nice radio, big and easily readable display, built in autotuner. Wish it did 2m/440<br /> : like its bigger brother (IC-706).<br /> <br /> ====Elecraft KX3====<br /> : Portable amateur radio (new to market, 1.5lb, 8-14v(?), rx: 150-???mA, tx: ?A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Great display and control layout located on what would normally be considered the &quot;top&quot;<br /> : of the radio which gives ample room compared to other radios. Built in autotuner. CW paddles<br /> : right on front of the radio. I would have liked to see a little more than 10W however its<br /> : certainly a reasonable and usable amount of power (and better than 5W). Has option for <br /> : an external KXPA100 100W amp and KXAT100 tuner. Overall it is an exciting product and I <br /> : probably would have bought one if I wasn't looking to have 2m/440 in the same radio.<br /> : I don't know if it supports CTCSS for 10m FM repeaters and CTCSS/DCS for 6m FM repeaters.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC706MK2G====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 5.5lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1800-2000mA, tx: 20A/100W)<br /> : RX current way too high, VHF frontend easily overloads. Nice display as with the IC703<br /> : above. The RX current is a deal breaker for battery ops. <br /> <br /> ====Icom IC7000====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($1200, 5.1lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1300-1600mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : Nice radio. RX current better than IC706 but still a little on the high side for battery ops.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-897D====<br /> : Mobile/portable amateur radio ($900, 8.6lb, 11.7-15.9v, rx: 600-1000mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : HF/50 MHz:5 watts = 4.0-4.7 amps 10 watts = 5.3-6.4 amps 25 watts = 7.3-9.2 amps 50 watts = 10.6-12.9 amps<br /> : 144 MHz: 5 watts = 3.4 amps 10 watts = 4.2 amps 25 watts = 6.3 amps 50 watts = 9.4 amps<br /> : 420 MHz: 5 watts = 4.2 amps 10 watts = 5.6 amps 20 watts = 8.7 amps<br /> :<br /> : Designed for field ops and has room for internal batteries (13.2v, 9AH) however the batteries<br /> : add an additional 6.5lbs to a radio which is already heavy at 8.6lbs. One option is to run your<br /> : own external battery which gives you room to install an internal 120V power supply. Overall<br /> : I really like this radio but its ruggedness will cost you in weight. You can get the FT-857D<br /> : (sacrificing the 897's rugged case and internal battery space) and save 4lbs on your back.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-857D====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 4.6lb, 12.4-15.2v,<br /> : rx: 600-1000mA (spec) 650-700mA (green/red backlight) 590mA (backlight off)<br /> : tx: 2A/5W 5A/15W 22A/100W)<br /> : Unlike the FT-897D above, this radio does not come with a TCXO. By the time you spend $100 on<br /> : the TCXO you end up with about the same radio as the FT-897D for the same price. Comparing the<br /> : FT-857D to the FT-897D has some pluses: 4lbs lighter, detachable head, and easier to mount mobile.<br /> : The minuses are we don't get the rugged case and battery space. I don't think either of these<br /> : minuses will matter as the radio and batteries will end up in a pack. One other thing to note is<br /> : both the 857 and 897 will automatically limit the radio to 20W when running on battery power<br /> : (by grounding the brown wire on the power connector).<br /> : Spec says voltage is 12.4-15.2, manual says 11.73-15.87.<br /> : The 857's signal will start sounding bad at about 11.75v.<br /> <br /> Given everything above it came down to deciding between the FT-857D and FT-897D.&lt;br&gt;<br /> I chose the FT-857D because its 4lbs lighter than the FT-897D. Every pound counts when backpacking !&lt;br&gt;<br /> The radio is best equipped with: tcxo-9, keypad mic, (2) W4RT/inrad.net filters.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Tuner===<br /> For honorable mention we have the long-discontinued Kenwood AT-130 which is a very small 80-10m(+WARC)&lt;br&gt;<br /> manual tuner (6 x 2.4 x 6.3 inches, 3.5 lbs.). For field ops I prefer a small autotuner. Yaesu makes the&lt;br&gt;<br /> FC-30 ($170, 17-150 ohms, 3.1 x 1.8 x 10.2 in, 2.2 lbs) however its 17-150 ohm tuning range is quite&lt;br&gt;<br /> narrow compared to the LDG product line.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the breakdown of the LDG products I looked at. All of them have latching relays.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> : $200 LDG YT-100 for 857/897 100w 4-800 ohm 7 x 7 x 2 1.5lbs<br /> : $200 LDG AT-897+ for 857/897 100w 6-800 ohm 11.5 x 3.25 x 1.5 2.0lbs<br /> : $160 Z100+ ? 125w 6-800 ohm 5.5 x 5.5 x 1.5 1 lb w/o batts<br /> : $170 Z11pro2 6-1000 ohm 7.7 x 5.0 x 1.5 1.5lb w/o batts<br /> &lt;br&gt; <br /> I ended up going with the Z11pro2 as it can autotune based on RF sense which keeps the CAT and ACC ports free. This is good because we&lt;br&gt;<br /> need both ports for our data interface. Another bonus of RF sense tuning is it makes the radio PC-ALE capable provided the antenna is&lt;br&gt;<br /> tunable on whatever ALE frequencies are to be used.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device on the left is the data/soundcard interface&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[File:FT857_and_tuner.jpg]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Battery===<br /> The following text describes how to build a battery pack. If you do not want to build this battery pack then you can buy one already built. For example you can look up &quot;ZIPPY Flightmax 8400mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack&quot; which currently sells for about $75. You will need to find a suitable charger for it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> I initially considered using 11 Accupower NiMH low-discharge &quot;D&quot; cells (10aH, 1.25v, 145g ea.)&lt;br&gt;<br /> This would give us 13.75v, 10aH at 3.5lb for about $110.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After more research I went with (8) 40160S LiFePO4 batteries (16AH/ea). This project really only needs 4 of these<br /> batteries however I opted to build two battery packs. 4 of these batteries in series gives you around 13 volts.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The 40160S 16AH battery is no longer being sold. The manufacturer has replaced it with the 40152S 15AH battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Paired with each battery pack is a circuit which protects from overcharge/overdischarge/overcurrent. It also keeps the batteries balanced<br /> while charging. After a long search for a suitable lightweight container I found the 4-battery pack fits perfectly into a &quot;Huggies&quot;<br /> baby wipe plastic box. I cut a small slot in the box for a short piece of velcro which holds the lid closed. The complete pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If you intend on taking your backpack radio on a commercial aircraft, keep in mind there are restrictions on high capacity lithium ion batteries. If you believe this will be a problem you can build a pack from 11 NiMH D cells or use a pre-made NiMH RC pack. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Notice the top door works great for the powerpole.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is a view of the internals. The protection circuit board is on the top.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The AC adapter/charger===<br /> I wanted enough beef for the radio to do 20W off the adapter. I ended up getting IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter<br /> for about $14 off ebay. It is relatively small and weighs 0.4 lb. I run it through a bridge rectifier which reduces the voltage to 14.8V which is suitable for operating the radio and charging the battery pack. Of course running DC through a bridge rectifier only uses two of the four diodes however it was an inexpensive solution which is much easier than standalone diodes to mount to the cable/fuse.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I found that the battery pack can draw up to 8A during charging so I used a 10A fuse on the power supply. Yes, I know the power supply is only rated at 7.5A and putting a 10A fuse on it is not good practice. So far it hasn't been a problem. During charging the bridge rectifier can get quite hot so make sure it is on a non-flammable surface. The obvious solution to all this would be a series current limiting resistor which is something I'll look into when I get the time.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> For now I am charging the battery pack with a small smart charger (Noco Genius G3500) which is set for a standard 12V battery at a 3.5A charge rate. It just so happens that its output voltage on this setting is just right for charging the LiFePO4 battery. The Noco Genius is a handy little charger as it is also good for charging and topping off car batteries, AGM batteries, 12V 7AH brick batteries, etc. and it will float the batteries without overcharging them. Another nice thing about this charger is its small enough to fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ac_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Solar Panel===<br /> PowerFilm F15-1200 20W (10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6&quot; 1 lb )&lt;br&gt;<br /> Nice compact and light panel but a little pricey at $10/watt. I would have gone with their 30W panel but it was even more overpriced.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the solar panel<br /> [[File:W7ki_solar_panel.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Computer===<br /> EEEPC 1000h. Small battery-efficient netbook with 10&quot; screen. Used it because I had it on hand. Any netbook would probably do ok so<br /> long as it has mic/headphone jacks. One bonus of this particular computer is you can feed it 12VDC direct.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the computer<br /> [[File:W7ki_netbook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Data Interface===<br /> Homemade. Nothing fancy, just some audio isolation transformers, a level converter, and a PTT transistor.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The data interface and the tuner are attached to the mobile mounting bracket with velcro. Note how the mobile bracket is angled such that the front of the tuner is slightly elevated. This was done to give some clearance to the radio speaker and also helps to direct the audio out of the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_data_interface1.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Antenna===<br /> I looked at a variety of compact antennas (Outbacker Joey, Outbacker Stealth Plus, ATX-W38 walkabout, ATX-DHP, and a handful<br /> of others). It was difficult to find anything that would collapse to under 18 inches (requirement for the pack I'm using). It was probably just as well<br /> since many &quot;portable&quot; antennas are helical which I personally despise.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My original intent was to buy a &quot;Buddi&quot; product and evaluate how it worked in a vertical configuration. The only issue was whether their 80 meter coil would fit in the pack. I emailed them multiple times asking the dimensions of the coil but unfortunately all of my emails were ignored. This probably speaks volumes as to how they handle issues after a sale so I thought it best not to do business with them until their customer communication improves.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Of all the pre-made antennas I found The SuperAntenna MP1B SuperStick would likely be the best off the shelf solution as it collapses to 12 inches and weighs under 2 pounds. When I first wrote this article their company had no products available which I believe was due to a transition in ownership. Their products are now available again and I plan on trying one out. I would buy the MP1B antenna, TM1 mount, and optionally MC60 coil for 60 meters and MC80 coil for 80 meters. A properly adjusted SuperAntenna requires no tuner however you need to use a correct length ground radial. This is my recommendation if you do not want to build an antenna. The text past this point describes how to build an antenna/coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I ended up using a military AT271-A/PRC antenna. It is a 7 section antenna with a 3/8-24 base that extends to 113.5 inches and collapses to 17 inches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> It has an optional 8 inch spring (AB-129/PR) which I am not currently using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:At271a.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As an alternative I found an 8.5' collapsible aluminum pole made for measuring snowpacks and after some tinkering it worked like a charm.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pole_antenna.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Either of these antennas is very usable on HF when paired with a couple of 18&quot; aluminum extender rods and a large tapped coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_big_coil.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> Obviously running a huge coil with a short antenna is about as worthless as a short helical so its important to remember to use as much whip or longwire as you can if you<br /> are less than 1/4 wave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a horizontal option I built a tapped voltage balun which attaches to a vertical extension arm and connects to two spools of wire.<br /> [[File:W7ki_horiz_setup.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;The wire spools can also be used as a counterpoise for vertical configurations.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the bottom is a carbon fiber camera monopod which we use as a vertical extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the top is a carpal tunnel wrist strap which is used for attaching the monopod extension arm to the pack aluminum extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is wound on Coleman camping clothesline spools.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Another HF antenna option is to build the St. Louis Vertical: http://www.amqrp.org/projects/stluisvert/STLV%20Project.html&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For VHF/UHF I have a 17&quot; dual-band antenna. For VHF only you can also put one of the 18&quot; aluminum rods onto the 1&quot; antenna mount.&lt;br&gt;<br /> 6 meters can be done with the 17&quot; antenna on top of both 18&quot; rods.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Pack===<br /> I looked at dozens of packs before settling on the Jansport Driver 8. Most other packs were either oversized and/or too heavy.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My reasoning for a 21x14x10&quot; size limit is so you can carry this on a commercial airplane if you are traveling. You certainly wouldn't want<br /> to check this as luggage as it would probably get destroyed by handling or stolen.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Two main things I liked about the Driver 8 are the wheels and the telescoping arm. The telescoping arm is wonderful because it is very sturdy<br /> aluminum which allows you to securely attach an antenna to it. This is great for manpack operations if you want the antenna up while you are<br /> walking around with the pack on your back. It also works great for fixed operations as the pack itself can be used as an antenna base.<br /> The wheels not only give your back a break where smooth surfaces are available, they also give you the ability to easily lay down the pack when assembling a long antenna. Its like having a mini fold over tower.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The wheels are inline skate wheels and have a very low ground clearance. It will roll fine inside buildings or on a paved sidewalk. The wheels will not work on a trail. This is unfortunate as it is much easier to pull 35 lbs on wheels than to heft it on your back. One possible solution to this is to run a 1/2 inch rod (or thread stock?) along the bottom of the pack and install a pair of 10&quot; x 1.75 lightweight plastic wheels. I would use Martin Wheel part number 110 wheels because they come with metal ball bearings.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:w7ki_pack_radio.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Construction and Setup==<br /> A complete materials and sources list is at the end of this article.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Extension Rods and Antenna===<br /> To make the aluminum extension rods you need a 3 foot piece of aluminum rod. Cut the rod into 3 pieces, 2 of them will be 17 inches long and the third piece will be the remaining 2 inches.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take a 21/64 inch drill bit and drill about 1.5 inches into both ends of the 17 inch rods. Be careful to drill straight. Once this is done tap threads into both ends with a 3/8-24 tap. Tapping threads into aluminum generates a tremendous amount of heat so remember to tap slowly and use an oil lubricant. Right after tapping these rods I bumped one of them with my arm and got a very nasty burn.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the tapping is done thread a 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud into both ends of the rods. Then, for each rod, put a 3/8-24 jam nut over the stud on one end and put a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut over the stud on the other end. When you are done it should look like the picture below.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> This section deals with constructing the antenna if you chose not to buy an AT-271 antenna:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now grab the remaining 2 inch piece of aluminum rod. Drill one end 1 inch deep with a size F (.2443 inch) bit then drill the other end 1 inch deep with the 21/64 inch drill bit you used for the other rods. Tap 5/16-18 threads into the size F end and 3/8-24 threads into the 21/64 end.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take the aluminum antenna, remove the lanyard string, push in the lower release spring button and shove it up the tube a couple inches, and tap the bottom for 5/16-18 threads. The two photos below show the start and finish of tapping the threads. I seriously do not recommend using vise-grips as shown in the photos. The antenna deforms very easily. It would be much better to lightly use a vise which can distribute the grip better with much less crush force. Again, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CRUSH OR DEFORM THE TUBE. I darn near destroyed the prototype using vise-grips.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Next we take a 1.5 inch 5/16-18 stud and thread half of it into the antenna. This is generally difficult to do so I recommend tightening two 5/16-18 nuts against each other onto the stud and use the outer nut with a wrench. Once the stud is threaded into the antenna you can thread the 2 inch aluminum rod onto the stud, then thread a 3/8-24 stud into the other end of the rod. Put a 3/8-24 jam nut onto the exposed threads. What you have done here is built a 5/16-18 to 3/8-24 thread adapter. The photo below shows what the finished product should look like.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rod_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The next step is to modify the antenna to make it conductive. The anodized surfaces do not conduct electricity so you need to take some sandpaper and sand out the inside of the bottom of each rod (about 3/4 inch should do). Another issue is the tapered inserts which are crimped into the top of the rods. These don't conduct either so you need to lightly bond them with an arc weld. This should be done with a MIG or TIG welder. Remember to sand the surfaces first, including the entire tapered section. I cheesed mine by using two truck batteries, a pair of jumper cables, and some real thin aluminum wire. Some people refer to this as hillbilly arc welding. Please don't do this unless you know the risks, know what you are doing, and you are using appropriate eye protection. Verify the end to end continuity of the antenna with an ohmmeter when you are done. Here is what mine looked like when it was done.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_hillbilly_weld.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The final step is to flatten out the pointed tip of the antenna rod. You can do this with a grinder or file.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Coil===<br /> The coil is made from a 7 3/4 inch piece of 4 inch diameter drainpipe with a drainpipe cap on each end. To make room for more coil turns we cut 1 3/8 inch off the end of the drainpipe cap. You need to cut two end caps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Locate the center of each cap, tap the center with a center punch or nail, drill a 1/8&quot; pilot hole, then drill in again with a 3/8&quot; bit.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now we take a piece of 1/4 inch schedule 80 pvc pipe and drill/tap it for 3/8-24 threads the same way you did the aluminum rods (except please don't use lubricating oil). Its important to use schedule 80 pipe as it has the correct inside diameter for tapping threads. The pipe should be about 7 1/2 inches long and later you might have to make some slight length adjustments for fit. Once your threads are tapped you can thread a 1.5 inch 3/8-24 stud into each end then put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer over the end (see photo below). Put one end into an end cap, put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer on the outside of the end cap, stack one 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal on top of the washer, and secure it with a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut stacked on top of the ring terminal.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Put the other end cap on. On the outside stack a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer, a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal, and a 3/8-24 jam nut.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to cover up any holes in the drainpipe with a square of duct tape.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To make the coil, glue 4 pieces of .065 Nylon Edge Trim as shown in the photo (credit to Phil AD5X for finding this edge trim). When cutting them to length, remember to offset each one to correctly accommodate a spirally-wound coil. Once this is done, drill a .065&quot; diagonal hole from the edge of the cap through the top of each cap (see photo), thread the wire through the hole and wind the coil with .064&quot; (14AWG) tin coated copper wire. Remember to keep tension on the coil or else it will wind loosely. The wire is stiff and doesn't come off the coil perfectly so there will be some manual coil alignment/straightening to do after the coil is wound. Once the coil is wound, put the ends thorough the 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminals, then cut &amp; solder. Be careful of heat damage to the plastic while soldering. Its usually best to loosen the end nuts prior to soldering as it will conduct less heat away from the ring terminals.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_end.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The coil tap is an EZ-Hook XM attached to a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal with an 11 inch piece of 22-gauge 7-strand insulated hookup wire. Attach the ring terminal above the coil ring terminal as shown in the photo.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_tap.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The EZ-Hook XM works great for 17AWG wire however its a little small for our 14AWG coil. The hook can be slightly adjusted with needlenose pliers to fit the 14AWG wire. The picture below shows the modified hook profile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ezhook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As built, the coil specs out like this: 7&quot; length, 4.25&quot; dia, 50 turns, 14ga .063 (spaced) = 129uH&lt;br&gt;<br /> Its a little overkill on the size &amp; inductance but it gives a lot of flexibility with short antennas.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Balun===<br /> The balun is based on a design by WB6ZQZ. His design appears to be a bifilar current balun in series with a quadrifilar voltage balun. We are only interested in the quadrifilar transformer because we will be using an external ferrite choke on the feedline (which allows us to use the choke for antenna configurations that don't use the voltage balun). Here is a link to instructions on how to wind the quadrifilar transformer:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> http://www.antennalaunchers.com/trb/photos.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Use 16ga enameled wire and a F-125-K toroid. Once the transformer is wound you can mount it on a small piece of plastic with holes drilled for the wires. Attach the wires to each other as per his schematic diagram and PC board photos.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mount the completed toroid into a 3x2x1 inch Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box. Install an SO-239 connector into the bottom of the box. For terminals I used (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts/nuts/wingnuts which are available at a home-improvement store. Label the terminals for Common, 50, 25, and 12 ohms. Attach a short piece of velcro to the back side which allows for mounting.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Antenna Mount &amp; Wire Spools===<br /> The antenna mount uses 1/4-20 hardware. I recommend replacing two of the nuts with wingnuts. Cut an 11 foot piece of Belden 8219 RG58A/U and loop it twice through two Laird LFB187102 ferrites as shown in the photo below. The coax fits tightly and we do not want to stretch it while pulling it through the ferrites so use a non-petroleum lubricant (I used cooking spray). Once this is done you can put UG-175/U reducers on the cable and solder a PL259 connector on each end.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_choke.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is spooled on a (2) Coleman 827E140T colthesline reels (thanks to Richard WA6KYR for finding these). Each Coleman reel comes with 21 feet of nylon cord. Pull all the cord out and cut off 13 feet so there is 8 feet remaining on the spool. Attach 59 1/2 feet of 22AWG insulated hookup wire to the end of the nylon cord. You can do this by stripping the end of the wire and pushing it through the middle of the nylon cord about 1/2 inch from the end, then secure the end of the nylon cord by lightly melting it with a lighter or soldering iron. Now you can reel in the wire. If it gets stuck you can open the reel with a 1/3 turn of the enclosure shell. Attach a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal to the end of the wire.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you are wondering why we use 59 1/2 feet it is because its the only length available that is reasonably close for loading at 75-80m and is not an even 1/2-wavelength multiple of any amateur band from 6m-40m (in fact we can go +/- 3 feet before bumping into one of these multiples. You should be able to roll this out to full length and tune any amateur band from 80m-6m. It also makes a good antenna to use with ALE and our RF-sensing tuner.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Battery===<br /> Each battery pack is made of (4) 40160S LiFePO4 cells (3.2V 16Ah) with a battery management circuit put into a Huggies wipe box.<br /> The battery management circuit sits on top of a plastic board which is an Akro-Mils 40150 (3.3 x 7.7 x 0.1 inch). Mount the batteries in the plastic holders, wire them in series with the bus bars, mount the battery management circuit, then wire it in. I recommend using a 30 amp fuse as pictured. Once this is done attach a 30A (12-14AWG) Powerpole connector with 12-gauge wire. The battery management circuit will charge the battery up to 14.2v before it automatically cuts off. The charger should be at least 14.6v.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each 40160S cell is rated at 3.65V (Max Charge), 3.2V (Nominal), and 2.0V (Discharge cut off).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Max charge current is 5C (80A) and max discharge current is 10C (160A).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cell life is rated at 2000 charge/discharge cycles under normal use.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete battery pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Data Interface===<br /> The data interface consists of audio isolation transformers, an RS232 level converter, and a PTT transistor. The audio circuit is per the &quot;KK7UQ Interface Model II&quot; circuit although I chose not to use the potentiometers and solid state relay in the original design. The original design and documentation can be found here:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://kk7uq.com/html/download/Manual2E.pdf<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The RS232 level converter is per a circuit attributed to OE1RIB.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I decided not to go with the Yaseu CT62 cable because I wanted the ability to use the DTR line for PTT (which is much cleaner for automated CW than keying with serial commands). Don't get me wrong here, I prefer a key, however flexibility was one of the design goals. I modified the level converter circuit to take power from the radio rather than trying to rob it from DTR/CTS with diodes. There is also a DPDT toggle switch on the back of the data interface which is an &quot;OFF&quot; switch (cuts the power from the radio and cuts the PTT line). I looked at off-the-shelf interfaces and most of them were either too big or required power for the audio circuitry.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Use a USB-serial converter if your computer doesn't have a serial port. I recommend using converters with the FTDI chipset for best performance and OS compatibility (I used USBG-RS232-F12 from usbgear.com).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the actual circuit I used to build the data interface:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to leave clearance for the jacks and switches when laying out the components on the PC board.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Velcro attachment<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Mounted to radio<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To connect the interface box to the radio I used a short piece of cat5 network cable wired like this&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT RD W-Br&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT TD W-G&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT + Br-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT GND G-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Data Out12 O-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data In W-Bl&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data PTT W-O&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data GND Bl-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The mini-din connectors go in very tight so beware of non-functioning or partial connections when you do this. Once you get them seated properly they work great and stay in place. Make sure to notch the back of the connector sleeves so the cables can exit at 90 degrees. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In the above photo you will also notice a connector/adapter contraption covered with electrical tape. These UHF right-angle adapters were used because the radio rests on its back side in the pack and we don't want the weight of the radio sitting on a PL259 connector and pinching the coax. All UHF right-angle adapters are not created equal. Most of them are garbage and use a small internal spring to connect the center conductor. The correct part to use is Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U. The adapter connecting the radio to the tuner is two of the Amphenol right-angle adapters connected with a short piece of LMR-600 with the center conductor diameter ground down from 0.176&quot; to 0.157&quot;. The length of the LMR600 and the mounting position of the tuner are critical because you don't want to obstruct the ports on the rear of the radio. As you can see in the photo below, this arrangement makes the back of the radio very compact which helps it fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_back.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Power Wiring===<br /> On the power supply you can add a third powerpole connector which is jumped to ground. When the third connector is also done on the radio side (connected to the radio brown wire) it forces the radio to 20W when plugged into the supply. This is good because our power supply is only rated for 7.5 amps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The power cable is 24 inches of 12-gauge red/black zipcord with a third wire for sensing low-power mode. Additionally it has a 16 inch length of zipcord for the tuner with a 2.5x5.5mm right-angle connector. As with the OEM cable, the 12-gauge cable splits off into two 14-gauge cables at the connector. You will notice that there are no fuses on this cable. I didn't bother because all my power sources for the pack are fused. In hindsight it would be prudent to put 30A fuses on both the positive and negative wires.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Third Powerpole connector for low power sense.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Connector end detail<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Monopod===<br /> The monopod is used to elevate the feedpoint of the dipole or a short vertical antenna. It is carbon fiber, weighs only 19oz, and extends to 68&quot;.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The monopod needs to be shortened to fit into the pack. Going around the perimeter of the small end rod, cut off the bottom half of the top rubber cap. This will allow the rod to collapse about an additional 1/2 inch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The bottom cap can be removed by pushing in the two roll pins with a small center punch. Then, with the rod fully collapsed, you will see there is about 13/16 inch you can saw off the big end without hitting the smaller rods that collapse inside of it. The photo below shows it after the cut.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Radio setup===<br /> Here is how I set mine up&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 7.000mhz<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to on.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 19&quot; (CAT Rate). Set it to 9600.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 29&quot; (CW Sidetone). Set it to 5.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 38&quot; (Dig Mode). Set it to PSK31-U.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 59&quot; (Mic Sel). Set it to RMT if you are using the MH-59A8J mic.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 86&quot; (TX IF Filter). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 2.3<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 50.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 144.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 20.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 446.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 10.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Enable 2.3kc filter for TX:<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push FUNC, rotate select to N, press 2.3 (above B key)<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ==Usage==<br /> The most basic setup is pulling the aluminum pack handle up one notch and attaching the mount/antenna. This can be used for a quick base setup or walking around with the pack on your back. The photo below shows the mount and 2m/70cm whip installed. If you want a somewhat useful counterpoise for 6m/2m/70cm without attaching the counterpoise wire, simply invert the feedline such that the chokes are by the radio instead of by the antenna. This way you can use the coax itself for a counterpoise. Its certainly not the best way to do it but it will work.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each aluminum rod is 18&quot; and you can use one of them by itself for a 2m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rods2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you use both rods with the 2m/70cm whip on top you will have a 6m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> You can use the monopod to elevate the a 6m/2m/70cm antenna. We use the carpal tunnel wrist strap to attach the monopod to the packs aluminum handle. The next photo looks like the leaning tower of Pisa because my first prototype was done with a medium-sized wrist strap. I have since moved to a small-sized strap which makes it stand much straighter. The monopod is good for 6m/2m/70cm verticals and for holding the feedpoint of a dipole. Do not use the monopod with the 8-foot antenna rod and/or the large loading coil as it gets too top heavy to remain stable. The following photo shows the ground radials installed and the choke ferrite near the antenna feedpoint. For a simpler setup you can skip the ground radials and invert the feedline (so the choke ferrites are near the radio) which will make the feedline act as a counterpoise. Yes I know this was said earlier in the article but its worth repeating.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_8.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Detail of antenna mount attached to the monopod pole<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_9.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The collapsible antenna by itself will work as a quarter-wave on 10m (pictured below) and should also tune up ok on 12m. It will work as a quarter-wave on 15m if you add the two aluminum extension rods.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Attaching the coil (tapped on the lowest turn) to the antenna base with the two aluminum rods above it will tune down to 80m. This configuration will have near zero efficiency however it will allow short-range communication on 75/80m while walking around with the pack on your back.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The best vertical configuration for 80m thru 17m is attaching the two rods to the base, putting the coil on top of the rods, then putting the collapsible aluminum antenna rod on top. It is best to tilt the pack over on its wheels and assemble the antenna on the ground.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once its assembled, tilt it up by lifting the aluminum arm on the pack. The weight of the batteries do a good job of keeping the antenna in place.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you want to try 160 meters you can remove the 8 foot whip and connect one of the 59-foot wire spools to the top of the coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a dipole configuration you can strap the balun to the top of the monopod and connect our spools of wire to it. Dipoles work best when they are at least 1/4 wave above the ground. Our feedpoint impedance will typically be much less than 50 ohms because in most cases we will be less than 1/4 wave off the ground. This will be especially noticeable on 40m/80m. Attach one wire to the &quot;C&quot; (common) balun terminal and attach the other wire to either the 12, 25, or 50 ohm terminal depending on which one works best. The wire spools use 3/8 ring terminals so we can optionally connect them directly to the vertical antenna mount if you want to feed a dipole directly without the balun.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One other important thing to note about dipoles is its best to keep the ends up off the ground. There is 8 feet of nylon rope at the end of the spools which can help in getting your wire somewhere it can be secured. In my pack I also keep short plastic tent stakes and short bungee cords which can help in some situations.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_10.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> There are a few other odds &amp; ends I keep in the pack. The PL-259 center to ring terminal adapter is for using the voltage balun with the vertical antenna. The Powerpole &quot;Y&quot; cable is for running the AC adapter or solar charger while using the radio. The short 3/8-24 bolt is for attaching a dipole wire directly to the antenna mount or to the top of the coil. There are also two 8-foot stereo cables for the data adapter and a 10-foot serial cable (not pictured). (I chose 8-10' cables to keep the computer RF a little ways away from the radio/antenna). At the bottom is the usb/serial adapter and on the bottom right are short velcro cable ties for attaching the feedline to the monopole and/or aluminum pack handle.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_misc.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is how it all fits into the pack<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_11.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete pack with both batteries and the computer weighs 35 lbs.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The weight can be substantially reduced by removing the spare battery, AC adapter, computer (if you don't need it), and any antenna parts you don't plan on using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In case you are wondering where the CW key/paddles are, I'm still working on finding a solution that works well with this portable setup.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Two that have been recommended are the Mini Paddle from Milestone Technologies and the Traveler Light from Begali.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Parts &amp; Prices==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> $799 FT857D w/YSK857<br /> $95 TCXO-9<br /> $82 MH-59A8J DTMF mic (also needed for direct freq entry)<br /> <br /> $120 W4RT2.3khz ssb filter<br /> $169 Z-11pro2<br /> <br /> $14 IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter (ebay)<br /> $2 bridge rectifier KBPC5010 (ebay)<br /> <br /> $144 (8) 16ah 40160s lifepo4 $24/ea (bmsbattery.com or manzanitamicro.com)<br /> $3 (8) 40160S battery holders 0.40/ea<br /> $4 (8) 40160S bus bar connectors 0.50/ea<br /> $80 battery shipping<br /> <br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> <br /> $97 (2) 30A Battery Management PCB http://www.batteryspace.com/pcbprotectioncircuitmodulefor4cells128vlifepo4batterypackat30alimited.aspx<br /> <br /> $11 USB to serial converter http://www.usbgear.com/computer_cable_details.cfm?sku=USBG-RS232-F12&amp;cats=199&amp;catid=482%2C199%2C601%2C461<br /> <br /> $8 3/8X24 Thread Mirror Mount: Wilson 901104<br /> $5 (20') Belden 8219 (RG58A/U) <br /> $3 (4) Amphenol 83-185-RFX (UG-175 reducer)<br /> $20 (4) Amphenol 83-822 (PL259)<br /> $10 shipping (theantennafarm.com)<br /> <br /> $79 Jansport Driver 8 TN89-008 UPC 757969203361 Wheeled Backpack (buy.com)<br /> <br /> $6 dual-band (2/440) whip with 3/8x24 mount (hamstick EDBW-1, Opek DB-1, or Workman DB-1) <br /> $4 (2) WORKKW2000A or CONXPARTSA (this is the power cord and connector pins)<br /> $3 (6 feet) Red &amp; Black DC wire 12 GA<br /> $9 shipping (k1cra.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (3') LMR-600 (showmecables.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 nuts (7/16&quot; head)<br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts<br /> $2 (8) 1/4&quot;-20 wingnuts<br /> $9 (10') 4&quot; drainpipe (we need one 7 3/4&quot; piece)<br /> $4 (2) 4&quot; drainpipe cap (home depot)<br /> <br /> $20 (5) littelfuse FHA30 12AWG inline fuse holder<br /> $3 (1) 5-pack of ATO 7.5 fuse (drillspot.com)<br /> <br /> $3 4' 14 gauge cable (for short part of radio power connector) (.62/ft)<br /> $1 4' 18 gauge cable (for battery sense +/- to pcb, low power wire on power cable) (.31/ft)<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (22-18) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $4 (1) 1/4&quot; (16-14) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (12-10) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $10 shipping (parts-express.com)<br /> <br /> (1) DB9F mouser 156-1309 0.80<br /> (4) BC546A mouser 512-BC546A 0.10<br /> (2) 5.6k 1/4w mouser 588-OD562JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (3) 10k 1/4w mouser 588-OD103JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (1) 3.5mm 3-pin plug (cw) (2 wires used) mouser 568-NYS231BG 1.69 (for cw jack)<br /> (1) 8-pin mini-din (cat) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2608 1.49<br /> (1) 6-pin mini-din (data) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2606 1.36<br /> (2) 600ohm 1:1 transformer mouser 42TL016-RC 1.66<br /> (2) 51 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD510JE 0.42<br /> (1) 1uf cap mouser 5989-100V1.0-F 0.71<br /> (1) .0047uf cap mouser 140-50P5-472K-RC 50v ceramic disc 0.12<br /> (1) 100 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD101JE 0.42 carbon comp 5%<br /> (1) 1k 1/4w mouser 588-OD102JE 0.42<br /> (1) board mouser 854-PR1593K $4.10 2.6 x 2.6<br /> (1) box mouser 546-1593KBK $2.88 (box is 2.6 x 2.6 x 1.1)<br /> (2) 2.2k resistor 1/2w carbon comp 5% mouser 588-OF222JE (1/4w mouser 588-OD222JE 0.42 not avail)<br /> (4) PL259 right angle Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U Mouser 523-83-1AP $14.70/ea<br /> (1) 2.5x5.5mm right angle plug (24AWG) power plug for tuner mouser 171-3216-EX $1.04/ea<br /> (2) ferrites - mouser 875-LFB187102-000 3.03/ea 3/4&quot; OD .400&quot; ID 1.125&quot; long (3 turns RG58 = 1000 ohm impedance @ 1-5mhz)<br /> (2) mouser 526-WH22-00-100 100' 22awg copper 7-strand hookup wire black nteinc.com $19 (use p/n 03-100 for orange) insulation OD 0.060&quot;<br /> (2) 3.5mm stereo jacks 502-35RAPC3BV4 2.73<br /> $112 total<br /> $12 shipping (mouser.com)<br /> <br /> $8 (1) 14-pack 3/8 ring terminal 16-14AWG (JT&amp;T 2011H - amazon.com)<br /> $18 (2) 8ft 3.5mm stereo cables (mediabridge - amazon.com)<br /> $3 21/64 (.3281&quot;) drill bit for 3/8-24 threads (amazon.com)<br /> $28 3' Aluminum 6061-T6 Seamless Round Tubing, WW-T 700/6, 1/2&quot; OD, 1/4&quot; ID, 1/8&quot; Wall, 36&quot; Length (amazon.com)<br /> $65 Opteka CFM300 68&quot; 5 Section 8x Carbon Fiber Monopod (amazon.com)<br /> $209 (1) PowerFilm F15-1200 20W solar panel 10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6 1 lb (amazon.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (4) EZ-Hook XM (digi-key 461-1004-ND)<br /> <br /> $2 Akro-Mils plastic dividers (Akro-Mils 40150 wasserstrom.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (8) 3/8-24 Jam Nuts 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (2) 3/8-24 Hex Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $10 (5) 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (10) 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer 316 Stainless Steel<br /> $7 shipping (fastener-warehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $7 (5') 1/4&quot; schedule 80 PVC pipe (usplastic.com)<br /> <br /> $14 (2) coleman 827E140T colthesline reel (coleman.com)<br /> <br /> $58 AT-271A/PRC antenna (ebay) OR $58 Voile Tourlight Avalanche Probe (8 foot) (voile-usa.com)<br /> <br /> $2 (2) 6&quot; tent stakes (rei.com)<br /> $2 (1) 4-pack of 10&quot; bungee cords (rei.com)<br /> $8 tax/shipping (rei.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) F-125-K Toroid Core 1.25&quot; 250-300 permeability low loss ferrite 1-30 mhz (theaudioguru.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (1) 1/4 lb Wire, 16ga (0.05&quot;) enameled (we need 4 feet for toroid) (allspectrum.com or jameco.com)<br /> <br /> $20 (1) 79-87283 DonJoy COMFORTFORM WRIST support-Small right (expressorthopedics.com - warning, it takes them a month to ship it)<br /> <br /> $8 Cables To Go 52030 - 6ft DB9 M/F All Lines Extension Cable Black (nextwarehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) 85085K8 25-pack nylon edge trim .065 gap width 3/16 opening, 15/64 height, 12 3/4 long<br /> $23 (1) 8871K71 80' (1 lb) spool .064&quot; (14ga) tin coated copper wire (spool says Arcor 14AWG)<br /> $2 (1) 91187A202 1.5&quot; 5/16-18 RHT stainless stud (or you can order a 10-pack for $4.55 with part number 95412A587)<br /> $10 (2) 95412A659 5-pack of 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud<br /> $9 tax/shipping (mcmaster.com)<br /> <br /> ==========<br /> $2518 approximate cost<br /> <br /> <br /> $? (1) stickyback velcro (attach tuner to radio mount)<br /> <br /> $? (1) velcro wire ties (attach coax to antenna mast)<br /> <br /> $? (1) 3/8-24 tap<br /> $? (1) 5/16-18 tap<br /> $? (1) Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box (for balun) 3x2x1&quot;<br /> <br /> $? (4) 30A (12-14AWG) red/black powerpole connector (1 for radio, 2 for batteries, 1 for AC/DC power supply)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> ==More Information==<br /> Here are some websites with great ideas for building backpack radios:<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://ec1cw.blogspot.com/2012/12/my-ft-857d-manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/321107979094<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_22/665730_Build_your_own_HF_manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://hfpack.com/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://pinztrek.com/radio/hfpack/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.dbbear.com/k0emt/projant/hfpack/</div> Sat, 25 Jan 2014 20:13:52 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:W7KI_Manpack_Radio http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/W7KI_Manpack_Radio <p>Rich:&#32;/* Usage */</p> <hr /> <div>[[File:FT857_and_tuner_in_pack.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;This article details how I set up a HF/VHF/UHF manpack radio.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> ==Overview==<br /> ===Design goals===<br /> Radio RF Output:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Minimum of 20W, preferable to have optional 50W+ available if needed<br /> Radio Frequency coverage:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : HF, 6 meters, 2 meters, and 70cm<br /> Radio Modes:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : FM/SSB/CW/PSK<br /> Radio receive current:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : preferably less than 700mA<br /> Tuner:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : 10-500ohm minimum, preferable little to no idle current<br /> Battery:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : sufficient to handle a weekend without recharging<br /> Power:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Battery, AC, or solar&lt;br&gt;<br /> Antenna:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Vertical or dipole with optional voltage balun<br /> PC:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Small netbook capable of digital modes<br /> Size:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Everything fits within a pack suitable for airplane carry-on (21x14x10&quot;).<br /> All items:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Weight as minimal as possible !<br /> Cost:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : $2500 neighborhood<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Radio===<br /> Here is a quick rundown of the radios I considered:&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Military radios==== <br /> : I looked at the PRC-104, PRC-132, PRC-138, PRC-320, PRC-1099, PRC-2000, and AEG SE-6861.<br /> : All of them are good radios. Only problem is I want HF/6/2/440 so I'm stuck<br /> : with looking at amateur radios.<br /> <br /> ====Vertex VX-1210====<br /> : This is a commercial radio ($1400+, 7.1lb w/batt, rx: 500mA, tx: 3A/5W, 5A/20W)<br /> : Very tempting but is HF only. Has option for internal autotuner and can be<br /> : set up for VFO operation. Battery is 14.4v 4AH.<br /> <br /> ====Mobat Micom 3 Pathfinder====<br /> : This is a 25W commercial radio. Excessive cost for this project. Otherwise a great radio !<br /> <br /> ====Outback radios (QMAC, Barrett, Codan)====<br /> : QMAC HF90 excessive cost &amp; no longer made, Barrett 940 too heavy (18.5lbs w/tuner battery)<br /> : Barrett 2040, Codan 2110 excessive cost.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-817ND====<br /> : Portable amateur radio ($600, 2.6lb, 8-16v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 2A/5W)<br /> : Tempting, and would pair nicely with LDG Z-817 tuner.<br /> : Only problem is I want 20W+. This could be accomplished with a Tokyo High Power HL-45B<br /> : amp ($400, 3.4 lbs, 8.5A/45W, 160-6m) + LDG Z-817H tuner.<br /> : This is a viable combination and has the benefit of low RX current.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC703+====<br /> : Amateur radio (discontinued, 4.4lb, 9-15.8v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 3A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Nice radio, big and easily readable display, built in autotuner. Wish it did 2m/440<br /> : like its bigger brother (IC-706).<br /> <br /> ====Elecraft KX3====<br /> : Portable amateur radio (new to market, 1.5lb, 8-14v(?), rx: 150-???mA, tx: ?A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Great display and control layout located on what would normally be considered the &quot;top&quot;<br /> : of the radio which gives ample room compared to other radios. Built in autotuner. CW paddles<br /> : right on front of the radio. I would have liked to see a little more than 10W however its<br /> : certainly a reasonable and usable amount of power (and better than 5W). Has option for <br /> : an external KXPA100 100W amp and KXAT100 tuner. Overall it is an exciting product and I <br /> : probably would have bought one if I wasn't looking to have 2m/440 in the same radio.<br /> : I don't know if it supports CTCSS for 10m FM repeaters and CTCSS/DCS for 6m FM repeaters.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC706MK2G====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 5.5lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1800-2000mA, tx: 20A/100W)<br /> : RX current way too high, VHF frontend easily overloads. Nice display as with the IC703<br /> : above. The RX current is a deal breaker for battery ops. <br /> <br /> ====Icom IC7000====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($1200, 5.1lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1300-1600mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : Nice radio. RX current better than IC706 but still a little on the high side for battery ops.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-897D====<br /> : Mobile/portable amateur radio ($900, 8.6lb, 11.7-15.9v, rx: 600-1000mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : HF/50 MHz:5 watts = 4.0-4.7 amps 10 watts = 5.3-6.4 amps 25 watts = 7.3-9.2 amps 50 watts = 10.6-12.9 amps<br /> : 144 MHz: 5 watts = 3.4 amps 10 watts = 4.2 amps 25 watts = 6.3 amps 50 watts = 9.4 amps<br /> : 420 MHz: 5 watts = 4.2 amps 10 watts = 5.6 amps 20 watts = 8.7 amps<br /> :<br /> : Designed for field ops and has room for internal batteries (13.2v, 9AH) however the batteries<br /> : add an additional 6.5lbs to a radio which is already heavy at 8.6lbs. One option is to run your<br /> : own external battery which gives you room to install an internal 120V power supply. Overall<br /> : I really like this radio but its ruggedness will cost you in weight. You can get the FT-857D<br /> : (sacrificing the 897's rugged case and internal battery space) and save 4lbs on your back.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-857D====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 4.6lb, 12.4-15.2v,<br /> : rx: 600-1000mA (spec) 650-700mA (green/red backlight) 590mA (backlight off)<br /> : tx: 2A/5W 5A/15W 22A/100W)<br /> : Unlike the FT-897D above, this radio does not come with a TCXO. By the time you spend $100 on<br /> : the TCXO you end up with about the same radio as the FT-897D for the same price. Comparing the<br /> : FT-857D to the FT-897D has some pluses: 4lbs lighter, detachable head, and easier to mount mobile.<br /> : The minuses are we don't get the rugged case and battery space. I don't think either of these<br /> : minuses will matter as the radio and batteries will end up in a pack. One other thing to note is<br /> : both the 857 and 897 will automatically limit the radio to 20W when running on battery power<br /> : (by grounding the brown wire on the power connector).<br /> : Spec says voltage is 12.4-15.2, manual says 11.73-15.87.<br /> : The 857's signal will start sounding bad at about 11.75v.<br /> <br /> Given everything above it came down to deciding between the FT-857D and FT-897D.&lt;br&gt;<br /> I chose the FT-857D because its 4lbs lighter than the FT-897D. Every pound counts when backpacking !&lt;br&gt;<br /> The radio is best equipped with: tcxo-9, keypad mic, (2) W4RT/inrad.net filters.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Tuner===<br /> For honorable mention we have the long-discontinued Kenwood AT-130 which is a very small 80-10m(+WARC)&lt;br&gt;<br /> manual tuner (6 x 2.4 x 6.3 inches, 3.5 lbs.). For field ops I prefer a small autotuner. Yaesu makes the&lt;br&gt;<br /> FC-30 ($170, 17-150 ohms, 3.1 x 1.8 x 10.2 in, 2.2 lbs) however its 17-150 ohm tuning range is quite&lt;br&gt;<br /> narrow compared to the LDG product line.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the breakdown of the LDG products I looked at. All of them have latching relays.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> : $200 LDG YT-100 for 857/897 100w 4-800 ohm 7 x 7 x 2 1.5lbs<br /> : $200 LDG AT-897+ for 857/897 100w 6-800 ohm 11.5 x 3.25 x 1.5 2.0lbs<br /> : $160 Z100+ ? 125w 6-800 ohm 5.5 x 5.5 x 1.5 1 lb w/o batts<br /> : $170 Z11pro2 6-1000 ohm 7.7 x 5.0 x 1.5 1.5lb w/o batts<br /> &lt;br&gt; <br /> I ended up going with the Z11pro2 as it can autotune based on RF sense which keeps the CAT and ACC ports free. This is good because we&lt;br&gt;<br /> need both ports for our data interface. Another bonus of RF sense tuning is it makes the radio PC-ALE capable provided the antenna is&lt;br&gt;<br /> tunable on whatever ALE frequencies are to be used.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device on the left is the data/soundcard interface&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[File:FT857_and_tuner.jpg]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Battery===<br /> The following text describes how to build a battery pack. If you do not want to build this battery pack then you can buy one already built. For example you can look up &quot;ZIPPY Flightmax 8400mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack&quot; which currently sells for about $75. You will need to find a suitable charger for it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> I initially considered using 11 Accupower NiMH low-discharge &quot;D&quot; cells (10aH, 1.25v, 145g ea.)&lt;br&gt;<br /> This would give us 13.75v, 10aH at 3.5lb for about $110.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After more research I went with (8) 40160S LiFePO4 batteries (16AH/ea). This project really only needs 4 of these<br /> batteries however I opted to build two battery packs. 4 of these batteries in series gives you around 13 volts.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The 40160S 16AH battery is no longer being sold. The manufacturer has replaced it with the 40152S 15AH battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Paired with each battery pack is a circuit which protects from overcharge/overdischarge/overcurrent. It also keeps the batteries balanced<br /> while charging. After a long search for a suitable lightweight container I found the 4-battery pack fits perfectly into a &quot;Huggies&quot;<br /> baby wipe plastic box. I cut a small slot in the box for a short piece of velcro which holds the lid closed. The complete pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If you intend on taking your backpack radio on a commercial aircraft, keep in mind there are restrictions on high capacity lithium ion batteries. If you believe this will be a problem you can build a pack from 11 NiMH D cells or use a pre-made NiMH RC pack. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Notice the top door works great for the powerpole.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is a view of the internals. The protection circuit board is on the top.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The AC adapter/charger===<br /> I wanted enough beef for the radio to do 20W off the adapter. I ended up getting IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter<br /> for about $14 off ebay. It is relatively small and weighs 0.4 lb. I run it through a bridge rectifier which reduces the voltage to 14.8V which is suitable for operating the radio and charging the battery pack. Of course running DC through a bridge rectifier only uses two of the four diodes however it was an inexpensive solution which is much easier than standalone diodes to mount to the cable/fuse.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I found that the battery pack can draw up to 8A during charging so I used a 10A fuse on the power supply. Yes, I know the power supply is only rated at 7.5A and putting a 10A fuse on it is not good practice. So far it hasn't been a problem. During charging the bridge rectifier can get quite hot so make sure it is on a non-flammable surface. The obvious solution to all this would be a series current limiting resistor which is something I'll look into when I get the time.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> For now I am charging the battery pack with a small smart charger (Noco Genius G3500) which is set for a standard 12V battery at a 3.5A charge rate. It just so happens that its output voltage on this setting is just right for charging the LiFePO4 battery. The Noco Genius is a handy little charger as it is also good for charging and topping off car batteries, AGM batteries, 12V 7AH brick batteries, etc. and it will float the batteries without overcharging them. Another nice thing about this charger is its small enough to fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ac_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Solar Panel===<br /> PowerFilm F15-1200 20W (10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6&quot; 1 lb )&lt;br&gt;<br /> Nice compact and light panel but a little pricey at $10/watt. I would have gone with their 30W panel but it was even more overpriced.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the solar panel<br /> [[File:W7ki_solar_panel.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Computer===<br /> EEEPC 1000h. Small battery-efficient netbook with 10&quot; screen. Used it because I had it on hand. Any netbook would probably do ok so<br /> long as it has mic/headphone jacks. One bonus of this particular computer is you can feed it 12VDC direct.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the computer<br /> [[File:W7ki_netbook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Data Interface===<br /> Homemade. Nothing fancy, just some audio isolation transformers, a level converter, and a PTT transistor.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The data interface and the tuner are attached to the mobile mounting bracket with velcro. Note how the mobile bracket is angled such that the front of the tuner is slightly elevated. This was done to give some clearance to the radio speaker and also helps to direct the audio out of the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_data_interface1.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Antenna===<br /> I looked at a variety of compact antennas (Outbacker Joey, Outbacker Stealth Plus, ATX-W38 walkabout, ATX-DHP, and a handful<br /> of others). It was difficult to find anything that would collapse to under 18 inches (requirement for the pack I'm using). It was probably just as well<br /> since many &quot;portable&quot; antennas are helical which I personally despise.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My original intent was to buy a &quot;Buddi&quot; product and evaluate how it worked in a vertical configuration. The only issue was whether their 80 meter coil would fit in the pack. I emailed them multiple times asking the dimensions of the coil but unfortunately all of my emails were ignored. This probably speaks volumes as to how they handle issues after a sale so I thought it best not to do business with them until their customer communication improves.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Of all the pre-made antennas I found The SuperAntenna MP1B SuperStick would likely be the best off the shelf solution as it collapses to 12 inches and weighs under 2 pounds. When I first wrote this article their company had no products available which I believe was due to a transition in ownership. Their products are now available again and I plan on trying one out. I would buy the MP1B antenna, TM1 mount, and optionally MC60 coil for 60 meters and MC80 coil for 80 meters. A properly adjusted SuperAntenna requires no tuner however you need to use a correct length ground radial. This is my recommendation if you do not want to build an antenna. The text past this point describes how to build an antenna/coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I ended up using a military AT271-A/PRC antenna. It is a 7 section antenna with a 3/8-24 base that extends to 113.5 inches and collapses to 17 inches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> It has an optional 8 inch spring (AB-129/PR) which I am not currently using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:At271a.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As an alternative I found an 8.5' collapsible aluminum pole made for measuring snowpacks and after some tinkering it worked like a charm.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pole_antenna.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Either of these antennas is very usable on HF when paired with a couple of 18&quot; aluminum extender rods and a large tapped coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_big_coil.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> Obviously running a huge coil with a short antenna is about as worthless as a short helical so its important to remember to use as much whip or longwire as you can if you<br /> are less than 1/4 wave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a horizontal option I built a tapped voltage balun which attaches to a vertical extension arm and connects to two spools of wire.<br /> [[File:W7ki_horiz_setup.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;The wire spools can also be used as a counterpoise for vertical configurations.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the bottom is a carbon fiber camera monopod which we use as a vertical extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the top is a carpal tunnel wrist strap which is used for attaching the monopod extension arm to the pack aluminum extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is wound on Coleman camping clothesline spools.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Another HF antenna option is to build the St. Louis Vertical: http://www.amqrp.org/projects/stluisvert/STLV%20Project.html&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For VHF/UHF I have a 17&quot; dual-band antenna. For VHF only you can also put one of the 18&quot; aluminum rods onto the 1&quot; antenna mount.&lt;br&gt;<br /> 6 meters can be done with the 17&quot; antenna on top of both 18&quot; rods.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Pack===<br /> I looked at dozens of packs before settling on the Jansport Driver 8. Most other packs were either oversized and/or too heavy.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My reasoning for a 21x14x10&quot; size limit is so you can carry this on a commercial airplane if you are traveling. You certainly wouldn't want<br /> to check this as luggage as it would probably get destroyed by handling or stolen.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Two main things I liked about the Driver 8 are the wheels and the telescoping arm. The telescoping arm is wonderful because it is very sturdy<br /> aluminum which allows you to securely attach an antenna to it. This is great for manpack operations if you want the antenna up while you are<br /> walking around with the pack on your back. It also works great for fixed operations as the pack itself can be used as an antenna base.<br /> The wheels not only give your back a break where smooth surfaces are available, they also give you the ability to easily lay down the pack when assembling a long antenna. Its like having a mini fold over tower.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The wheels are inline skate wheels and have a very low ground clearance. It will roll fine inside buildings or on a paved sidewalk. The wheels will not work on a trail. This is unfortunate as it is much easier to pull 35 lbs on wheels than to heft it on your back. One possible solution to this is to run a 1/2 inch rod (or thread stock?) along the bottom of the pack and install a pair of 10&quot; x 1.75 lightweight plastic wheels. I would use Martin Wheel part number 110 wheels because they come with metal ball bearings.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:w7ki_pack_radio.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Construction and Setup==<br /> A complete materials and sources list is at the end of this article.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Extension Rods and Antenna===<br /> To make the aluminum extension rods you need a 3 foot piece of aluminum rod. Cut the rod into 3 pieces, 2 of them will be 17 inches long and the third piece will be the remaining 2 inches.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take a 21/64 inch drill bit and drill about 1.5 inches into both ends of the 17 inch rods. Be careful to drill straight. Once this is done tap threads into both ends with a 3/8-24 tap. Tapping threads into aluminum generates a tremendous amount of heat so remember to tap slowly and use an oil lubricant. Right after tapping these rods I bumped one of them with my arm and got a very nasty burn.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the tapping is done thread a 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud into both ends of the rods. Then, for each rod, put a 3/8-24 jam nut over the stud on one end and put a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut over the stud on the other end. When you are done it should look like the picture below.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> This section deals with constructing the antenna if you chose not to buy an AT-271 antenna:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now grab the remaining 2 inch piece of aluminum rod. Drill one end 1 inch deep with a size F (.2443 inch) bit then drill the other end 1 inch deep with the 21/64 inch drill bit you used for the other rods. Tap 5/16-18 threads into the size F end and 3/8-24 threads into the 21/64 end.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take the aluminum antenna, remove the lanyard string, push in the lower release spring button and shove it up the tube a couple inches, and tap the bottom for 5/16-18 threads. The two photos below show the start and finish of tapping the threads. I seriously do not recommend using vise-grips as shown in the photos. The antenna deforms very easily. It would be much better to lightly use a vise which can distribute the grip better with much less crush force. Again, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CRUSH OR DEFORM THE TUBE. I darn near destroyed the prototype using vise-grips.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Next we take a 1.5 inch 5/16-18 stud and thread half of it into the antenna. This is generally difficult to do so I recommend tightening two 5/16-18 nuts against each other onto the stud and use the outer nut with a wrench. Once the stud is threaded into the antenna you can thread the 2 inch aluminum rod onto the stud, then thread a 3/8-24 stud into the other end of the rod. Put a 3/8-24 jam nut onto the exposed threads. What you have done here is built a 5/16-18 to 3/8-24 thread adapter. The photo below shows what the finished product should look like.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rod_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The next step is to modify the antenna to make it conductive. The anodized surfaces do not conduct electricity so you need to take some sandpaper and sand out the inside of the bottom of each rod (about 3/4 inch should do). Another issue is the tapered inserts which are crimped into the top of the rods. These don't conduct either so you need to lightly bond them with an arc weld. This should be done with a MIG or TIG welder. Remember to sand the surfaces first, including the entire tapered section. I cheesed mine by using two truck batteries, a pair of jumper cables, and some real thin aluminum wire. Some people refer to this as hillbilly arc welding. Please don't do this unless you know the risks, know what you are doing, and you are using appropriate eye protection. Verify the end to end continuity of the antenna with an ohmmeter when you are done. Here is what mine looked like when it was done.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_hillbilly_weld.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The final step is to flatten out the pointed tip of the antenna rod. You can do this with a grinder or file.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Coil===<br /> The coil is made from a 7 3/4 inch piece of 4 inch diameter drainpipe with a drainpipe cap on each end. To make room for more coil turns we cut 1 3/8 inch off the end of the drainpipe cap. You need to cut two end caps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Locate the center of each cap, tap the center with a center punch or nail, drill a 1/8&quot; pilot hole, then drill in again with a 3/8&quot; bit.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now we take a piece of 1/4 inch schedule 80 pvc pipe and drill/tap it for 3/8-24 threads the same way you did the aluminum rods (except please don't use lubricating oil). Its important to use schedule 80 pipe as it has the correct inside diameter for tapping threads. The pipe should be about 7 1/2 inches long and later you might have to make some slight length adjustments for fit. Once your threads are tapped you can thread a 1.5 inch 3/8-24 stud into each end then put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer over the end (see photo below). Put one end into an end cap, put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer on the outside of the end cap, stack one 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal on top of the washer, and secure it with a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut stacked on top of the ring terminal.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Put the other end cap on. On the outside stack a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer, a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal, and a 3/8-24 jam nut.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to cover up any holes in the drainpipe with a square of duct tape.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To make the coil, glue 4 pieces of .065 Nylon Edge Trim as shown in the photo (credit to Phil AD5X for finding this edge trim). When cutting them to length, remember to offset each one to correctly accommodate a spirally-wound coil. Once this is done, drill a .065&quot; diagonal hole from the edge of the cap through the top of each cap (see photo), thread the wire through the hole and wind the coil with .064&quot; (14AWG) tin coated copper wire. Remember to keep tension on the coil or else it will wind loosely. The wire is stiff and doesn't come off the coil perfectly so there will be some manual coil alignment/straightening to do after the coil is wound. Once the coil is wound, put the ends thorough the 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminals, then cut &amp; solder. Be careful of heat damage to the plastic while soldering. Its usually best to loosen the end nuts prior to soldering as it will conduct less heat away from the ring terminals.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_end.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The coil tap is an EZ-Hook XM attached to a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal with an 11 inch piece of 22-gauge 7-strand insulated hookup wire. Attach the ring terminal above the coil ring terminal as shown in the photo.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_tap.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The EZ-Hook XM works great for 17AWG wire however its a little small for our 14AWG coil. The hook can be slightly adjusted with needlenose pliers to fit the 14AWG wire. The picture below shows the modified hook profile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ezhook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As built, the coil specs out like this: 7&quot; length, 4.25&quot; dia, 50 turns, 14ga .063 (spaced) = 129uH&lt;br&gt;<br /> Its a little overkill on the size &amp; inductance but it gives a lot of flexibility with short antennas.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Balun===<br /> The balun is based on a design by WB6ZQZ. His design appears to be a bifilar current balun in series with a quadrifilar voltage balun. We are only interested in the quadrifilar transformer because we will be using an external ferrite choke on the feedline (which allows us to use the choke for antenna configurations that don't use the voltage balun). Here is a link to instructions on how to wind the quadrifilar transformer:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> http://www.antennalaunchers.com/trb/photos.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Use 16ga enameled wire and a F-125-K toroid. Once the transformer is wound you can mount it on a small piece of plastic with holes drilled for the wires. Attach the wires to each other as per his schematic diagram and PC board photos.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mount the completed toroid into a 3x2x1 inch Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box. Install an SO-239 connector into the bottom of the box. For terminals I used (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts/nuts/wingnuts which are available at a home-improvement store. Label the terminals for Common, 50, 25, and 12 ohms. Attach a short piece of velcro to the back side which allows for mounting.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Antenna Mount &amp; Wire Spools===<br /> The antenna mount uses 1/4-20 hardware. I recommend replacing two of the nuts with wingnuts. Cut an 11 foot piece of Belden 8219 RG58A/U and loop it twice through two Laird LFB187102 ferrites as shown in the photo below. The coax fits tightly and we do not want to stretch it while pulling it through the ferrites so use a non-petroleum lubricant (I used cooking spray). Once this is done you can put UG-175/U reducers on the cable and solder a PL259 connector on each end.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_choke.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is spooled on a (2) Coleman 827E140T colthesline reels (thanks to Richard WA6KYR for finding these). Each Coleman reel comes with 21 feet of nylon cord. Pull all the cord out and cut off 13 feet so there is 8 feet remaining on the spool. Attach 59 1/2 feet of 22AWG insulated hookup wire to the end of the nylon cord. You can do this by stripping the end of the wire and pushing it through the middle of the nylon cord about 1/2 inch from the end, then secure the end of the nylon cord by lightly melting it with a lighter or soldering iron. Now you can reel in the wire. If it gets stuck you can open the reel with a 1/3 turn of the enclosure shell. Attach a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal to the end of the wire.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you are wondering why we use 59 1/2 feet it is because its the only length available that is reasonably close for loading at 75-80m and is not an even 1/2-wavelength multiple of any amateur band from 6m-40m (in fact we can go +/- 3 feet before bumping into one of these multiples. You should be able to roll this out to full length and tune any amateur band from 80m-6m. It also makes a good antenna to use with ALE and our RF-sensing tuner.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Battery===<br /> Each battery pack is made of (4) 40160S LiFePO4 cells (3.2V 16Ah) with a battery management circuit put into a Huggies wipe box.<br /> The battery management circuit sits on top of a plastic board which is an Akro-Mils 40150 (3.3 x 7.7 x 0.1 inch). Mount the batteries in the plastic holders, wire them in series with the bus bars, mount the battery management circuit, then wire it in. I recommend using a 30 amp fuse as pictured. Once this is done attach a 30A (12-14AWG) Powerpole connector with 12-gauge wire. The battery management circuit will charge the battery up to 14.2v before it automatically cuts off. The charger should be at least 14.6v.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each 40160S cell is rated at 3.65V (Max Charge), 3.2V (Nominal), and 2.0V (Discharge cut off).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Max charge current is 5C (80A) and max discharge current is 10C (160A).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cell life is rated at 2000 charge/discharge cycles under normal use.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete battery pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Data Interface===<br /> The data interface consists of audio isolation transformers, an RS232 level converter, and a PTT transistor. The audio circuit is per the &quot;KK7UQ Interface Model II&quot; circuit although I chose not to use the potentiometers and solid state relay in the original design. The original design and documentation can be found here:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://kk7uq.com/html/download/Manual2E.pdf<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The RS232 level converter is per a circuit attributed to OE1RIB.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I decided not to go with the Yaseu CT62 cable because I wanted the ability to use the DTR line for PTT (which is much cleaner for automated CW than keying with serial commands). Don't get me wrong here, I prefer a key, however flexibility was one of the design goals. I modified the level converter circuit to take power from the radio rather than trying to rob it from DTR/CTS with diodes. There is also a DPDT toggle switch on the back of the data interface which is an &quot;OFF&quot; switch (cuts the power from the radio and cuts the PTT line). I looked at off-the-shelf interfaces and most of them were either too big or required power for the audio circuitry.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Use a USB-serial converter if your computer doesn't have a serial port. I recommend using converters with the FTDI chipset for best performance and OS compatibility (I used USBG-RS232-F12 from usbgear.com).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the actual circuit I used to build the data interface:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to leave clearance for the jacks and switches when laying out the components on the PC board.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Velcro attachment<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Mounted to radio<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To connect the interface box to the radio I used a short piece of cat5 network cable wired like this&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT RD W-Br&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT TD W-G&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT + Br-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT GND G-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Data Out12 O-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data In W-Bl&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data PTT W-O&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data GND Bl-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The mini-din connectors go in very tight so beware of non-functioning or partial connections when you do this. Once you get them seated properly they work great and stay in place. Make sure to notch the back of the connector sleeves so the cables can exit at 90 degrees. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In the above photo you will also notice a connector/adapter contraption covered with electrical tape. These UHF right-angle adapters were used because the radio rests on its back side in the pack and we don't want the weight of the radio sitting on a PL259 connector and pinching the coax. All UHF right-angle adapters are not created equal. Most of them are garbage and use a small internal spring to connect the center conductor. The correct part to use is Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U. The adapter connecting the radio to the tuner is two of the Amphenol right-angle adapters connected with a short piece of LMR-600 with the center conductor diameter ground down from 0.176&quot; to 0.157&quot;. The length of the LMR600 and the mounting position of the tuner are critical because you don't want to obstruct the ports on the rear of the radio. As you can see in the photo below, this arrangement makes the back of the radio very compact which helps it fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_back.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Power Wiring===<br /> On the power supply you can add a third powerpole connector which is jumped to ground. When the third connector is also done on the radio side (connected to the radio brown wire) it forces the radio to 20W when plugged into the supply. This is good because our power supply is only rated for 7.5 amps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The power cable is 24 inches of 12-gauge red/black zipcord with a third wire for sensing low-power mode. Additionally it has a 16 inch length of zipcord for the tuner with a 2.5x5.5mm right-angle connector. As with the OEM cable, the 12-gauge cable splits off into two 14-gauge cables at the connector. You will notice that there are no fuses on this cable. I didn't bother because all my power sources for the pack are fused. In hindsight it would be prudent to put 30A fuses on both the positive and negative wires.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Third Powerpole connector for low power sense.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Connector end detail<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Monopod===<br /> The monopod is used to elevate the feedpoint of the dipole or a short vertical antenna. It is carbon fiber, weighs only 19oz, and extends to 68&quot;.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The monopod needs to be shortened to fit into the pack. Going around the perimeter of the small end rod, cut off the bottom half of the top rubber cap. This will allow the rod to collapse about an additional 1/2 inch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The bottom cap can be removed by pushing in the two roll pins with a small center punch. Then, with the rod fully collapsed, you will see there is about 13/16 inch you can saw off the big end without hitting the smaller rods that collapse inside of it. The photo below shows it after the cut.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Radio setup===<br /> Here is how I set mine up&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 7.000mhz<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to on.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 19&quot; (CAT Rate). Set it to 9600.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 29&quot; (CW Sidetone). Set it to 5.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 38&quot; (Dig Mode). Set it to PSK31-U.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 59&quot; (Mic Sel). Set it to RMT if you are using the MH-59A8J mic.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 86&quot; (TX IF Filter). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 2.3<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 50.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 144.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 20.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 446.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 10.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Enable 2.3kc filter for TX:<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push FUNC, rotate select to N, press 2.3 (above B key)<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ==Usage==<br /> The most basic setup is pulling the aluminum pack handle up one notch and attaching the mount/antenna. This can be used for a quick base setup or walking around with the pack on your back. The photo below shows the mount and 2m/70cm whip installed. If you want a somewhat useful counterpoise for 6m/2m/70cm without attaching the counterpoise wire, simply invert the feedline such that the chokes are by the radio instead of by the antenna. This way you can use the coax itself for a counterpoise. Its certainly not the best way to do it but it will work.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each aluminum rod is 18&quot; and you can use one of them by itself for a 2m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rods2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you use both rods with the 2m/70cm whip on top you will have a 6m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> You can use the monopod to elevate the a 6m/2m/70cm antenna. We use the carpal tunnel wrist strap to attach the monopod to the packs aluminum handle. The next photo looks like the leaning tower of Pisa because my first prototype was done with a medium-sized wrist strap. I have since moved to a small-sized strap which makes it stand much straighter. The monopod is good for 6m/2m/70cm verticals and for holding the feedpoint of a dipole. Do not use the monopod with the 8-foot antenna rod and/or the large loading coil as it gets too top heavy to remain stable. The following photo shows the ground radials installed and the choke ferrite near the antenna feedpoint. For a simpler setup you can skip the ground radials and invert the feedline (so the choke ferrites are near the radio) which will make the feedline act as a counterpoise. Yes I know this was said earlier in the article but its worth repeating.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_8.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Detail of antenna mount attached to the monopod pole<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_9.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The collapsible antenna by itself will work as a quarter-wave on 10m (pictured below) and should also tune up ok on 12m. It will work as a quarter-wave on 15m if you add the two aluminum extension rods.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Attaching the coil (tapped on the lowest turn) to the antenna base with the two aluminum rods above it will tune down to 80m. This configuration will have near zero efficiency however it will allow short-range communication on 75/80m while walking around with the pack on your back.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The best vertical configuration for 80m thru 17m is attaching the two rods to the base, putting the coil on top of the rods, then putting the collapsible aluminum antenna rod on top. It is best to tilt the pack over on its wheels and assemble the antenna on the ground.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once its assembled, tilt it up by lifting the aluminum arm on the pack. The weight of the batteries do a good job of keeping the antenna in place.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you want to try 160 meters you can remove the 8 foot whip and connect one of the 59-foot wire spools to the top of the coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a dipole configuration you can strap the balun to the top of the monopod and connect our spools of wire to it. Dipoles work best when they are at least 1/4 wave above the ground. Our feedpoint impedance will typically be much less than 50 ohms because in most cases we will be less than 1/4 wave off the ground. This will be especially noticeable on 40m/80m. Attach one wire to the &quot;C&quot; (common) balun terminal and attach the other wire to either the 12, 25, or 50 ohm terminal depending on which one works best. The wire spools use 3/8 ring terminals so we can optionally connect them directly to the vertical antenna mount if you want to feed a dipole directly without the balun.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One other important thing to note about dipoles is its best to keep the ends up off the ground. There is 8 feet of nylon rope at the end of the spools which can help in getting your wire somewhere it can be secured. In my pack I also keep short plastic tent stakes and short bungee cords which can help in some situations.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_10.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> There are a few other odds &amp; ends I keep in the pack. The PL-259 center to ring terminal adapter is for using the voltage balun with the vertical antenna. The Powerpole &quot;Y&quot; cable is for running the AC adapter or solar charger while using the radio. The short 3/8-24 bolt is for attaching a dipole wire directly to the antenna mount or to the top of the coil. There are also two 8-foot stereo cables for the data adapter and a 10-foot serial cable (not pictured). (I chose 8-10' cables to keep the computer RF a little ways away from the radio/antenna). At the bottom is the usb/serial adapter and on the bottom right are short velcro cable ties for attaching the feedline to the monopole and/or aluminum pack handle.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_misc.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is how it all fits into the pack<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_11.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete pack with both batteries and the computer weighs 35 lbs.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The weight can be substantially reduced by removing the spare battery, AC adapter, computer (if you don't need it), and any antenna parts you don't plan on using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In case you are wondering where the CW key/paddles are, I'm still working on finding a solution that works well with this portable setup.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Two that have been recommended are the Mini Paddle from Milestone Technologies and the Traveler Light from Begali.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Parts &amp; Prices==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> $799 FT857D w/YSK857<br /> $95 TCXO-9<br /> $82 MH-59A8J DTMF mic (also needed for direct freq entry)<br /> <br /> $120 W4RT2.3khz ssb filter<br /> $169 Z-11pro2<br /> <br /> $14 IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter (ebay)<br /> $2 bridge rectifier KBPC5010 (ebay)<br /> <br /> $144 (8) 16ah 40160s lifepo4 $24/ea (bmsbattery.com or manzanitamicro.com)<br /> $3 (8) 40160S battery holders 0.40/ea<br /> $4 (8) 40160S bus bar connectors 0.50/ea<br /> $80 battery shipping<br /> <br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> <br /> $97 (2) 30A Battery Management PCB http://www.batteryspace.com/pcbprotectioncircuitmodulefor4cells128vlifepo4batterypackat30alimited.aspx<br /> <br /> $11 USB to serial converter http://www.usbgear.com/computer_cable_details.cfm?sku=USBG-RS232-F12&amp;cats=199&amp;catid=482%2C199%2C601%2C461<br /> <br /> $8 3/8X24 Thread Mirror Mount: Wilson 901104<br /> $5 (20') Belden 8219 (RG58A/U) <br /> $3 (4) Amphenol 83-185-RFX (UG-175 reducer)<br /> $20 (4) Amphenol 83-822 (PL259)<br /> $10 shipping (theantennafarm.com)<br /> <br /> $79 Jansport Driver 8 TN89-008 UPC 757969203361 Wheeled Backpack (buy.com)<br /> <br /> $6 dual-band (2/440) whip with 3/8x24 mount (hamstick EDBW-1, Opek DB-1, or Workman DB-1) <br /> $4 (2) CONXPARTSA Kenwood KW2000 (Parts A)<br /> $3 (6 feet) Red &amp; Black DC wire 12 GA<br /> $9 shipping (k1cra.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (3') LMR-600 (showmecables.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 nuts (7/16&quot; head)<br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts<br /> $2 (8) 1/4&quot;-20 wingnuts<br /> $9 (10') 4&quot; drainpipe (we need one 7 3/4&quot; piece)<br /> $4 (2) 4&quot; drainpipe cap (home depot)<br /> <br /> $20 (5) littelfuse FHA30 12AWG inline fuse holder<br /> $3 (1) 5-pack of ATO 7.5 fuse (drillspot.com)<br /> <br /> $3 4' 14 gauge cable (for short part of radio power connector) (.62/ft)<br /> $1 4' 18 gauge cable (for battery sense +/- to pcb, low power wire on power cable) (.31/ft)<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (22-18) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $4 (1) 1/4&quot; (16-14) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (12-10) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $10 shipping (parts-express.com)<br /> <br /> (1) DB9F mouser 156-1309 0.80<br /> (4) BC546A mouser 512-BC546A 0.10<br /> (2) 5.6k 1/4w mouser 588-OD562JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (3) 10k 1/4w mouser 588-OD103JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (1) 3.5mm 3-pin plug (cw) (2 wires used) mouser 568-NYS231BG 1.69 (for cw jack)<br /> (1) 8-pin mini-din (cat) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2608 1.49<br /> (1) 6-pin mini-din (data) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2606 1.36<br /> (2) 600ohm 1:1 transformer mouser 42TL016-RC 1.66<br /> (2) 51 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD510JE 0.42<br /> (1) 1uf cap mouser 5989-100V1.0-F 0.71<br /> (1) .0047uf cap mouser 140-50P5-472K-RC 50v ceramic disc 0.12<br /> (1) 100 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD101JE 0.42 carbon comp 5%<br /> (1) 1k 1/4w mouser 588-OD102JE 0.42<br /> (1) board mouser 854-PR1593K $4.10 2.6 x 2.6<br /> (1) box mouser 546-1593KBK $2.88 (box is 2.6 x 2.6 x 1.1)<br /> (2) 2.2k resistor 1/2w carbon comp 5% mouser 588-OF222JE (1/4w mouser 588-OD222JE 0.42 not avail)<br /> (4) PL259 right angle Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U Mouser 523-83-1AP $14.70/ea<br /> (1) 2.5x5.5mm right angle plug (24AWG) power plug for tuner mouser 171-3216-EX $1.04/ea<br /> (2) ferrites - mouser 875-LFB187102-000 3.03/ea 3/4&quot; OD .400&quot; ID 1.125&quot; long (3 turns RG58 = 1000 ohm impedance @ 1-5mhz)<br /> (2) mouser 526-WH22-00-100 100' 22awg copper 7-strand hookup wire black nteinc.com $19 (use p/n 03-100 for orange) insulation OD 0.060&quot;<br /> (2) 3.5mm stereo jacks 502-35RAPC3BV4 2.73<br /> $112 total<br /> $12 shipping (mouser.com)<br /> <br /> $8 (1) 14-pack 3/8 ring terminal 16-14AWG (JT&amp;T 2011H - amazon.com)<br /> $18 (2) 8ft 3.5mm stereo cables (mediabridge - amazon.com)<br /> $3 21/64 (.3281&quot;) drill bit for 3/8-24 threads (amazon.com)<br /> $28 3' Aluminum 6061-T6 Seamless Round Tubing, WW-T 700/6, 1/2&quot; OD, 1/4&quot; ID, 1/8&quot; Wall, 36&quot; Length (amazon.com)<br /> $65 Opteka CFM300 68&quot; 5 Section 8x Carbon Fiber Monopod (amazon.com)<br /> $209 (1) PowerFilm F15-1200 20W solar panel 10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6 1 lb (amazon.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (4) EZ-Hook XM (digi-key 461-1004-ND)<br /> <br /> $2 Akro-Mils plastic dividers (Akro-Mils 40150 wasserstrom.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (8) 3/8-24 Jam Nuts 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (2) 3/8-24 Hex Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $10 (5) 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (10) 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer 316 Stainless Steel<br /> $7 shipping (fastener-warehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $7 (5') 1/4&quot; schedule 80 PVC pipe (usplastic.com)<br /> <br /> $14 (2) coleman 827E140T colthesline reel (coleman.com)<br /> <br /> $58 AT-271A/PRC antenna (ebay) OR $58 Voile Tourlight Avalanche Probe (8 foot) (voile-usa.com)<br /> <br /> $2 (2) 6&quot; tent stakes (rei.com)<br /> $2 (1) 4-pack of 10&quot; bungee cords (rei.com)<br /> $8 tax/shipping (rei.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) F-125-K Toroid Core 1.25&quot; 250-300 permeability low loss ferrite 1-30 mhz (theaudioguru.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (1) 1/4 lb Wire, 16ga (0.05&quot;) enameled (we need 4 feet for toroid) (allspectrum.com or jameco.com)<br /> <br /> $20 (1) 79-87283 DonJoy COMFORTFORM WRIST support-Small right (expressorthopedics.com - warning, it takes them a month to ship it)<br /> <br /> $8 Cables To Go 52030 - 6ft DB9 M/F All Lines Extension Cable Black (nextwarehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) 85085K8 25-pack nylon edge trim .065 gap width 3/16 opening, 15/64 height, 12 3/4 long<br /> $23 (1) 8871K71 80' (1 lb) spool .064&quot; (14ga) tin coated copper wire (spool says Arcor 14AWG)<br /> $2 (1) 91187A202 1.5&quot; 5/16-18 RHT stainless stud (or you can order a 10-pack for $4.55 with part number 95412A587)<br /> $10 (2) 95412A659 5-pack of 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud<br /> $9 tax/shipping (mcmaster.com)<br /> <br /> ==========<br /> $2518 approximate cost<br /> <br /> <br /> $? (1) stickyback velcro (attach tuner to radio mount)<br /> <br /> $? (1) velcro wire ties (attach coax to antenna mast)<br /> <br /> $? (1) 3/8-24 tap<br /> $? (1) 5/16-18 tap<br /> $? (1) Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box (for balun) 3x2x1&quot;<br /> <br /> $? (4) 30A (12-14AWG) red/black powerpole connector (1 for radio, 2 for batteries, 1 for AC/DC power supply)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> ==More Information==<br /> Here are some websites with great ideas for building backpack radios:<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://ec1cw.blogspot.com/2012/12/my-ft-857d-manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/321107979094<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_22/665730_Build_your_own_HF_manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://hfpack.com/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://pinztrek.com/radio/hfpack/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.dbbear.com/k0emt/projant/hfpack/</div> Thu, 26 Dec 2013 17:21:59 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:W7KI_Manpack_Radio http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/W7KI_Manpack_Radio <p>Rich:&#32;/* Usage */</p> <hr /> <div>[[File:FT857_and_tuner_in_pack.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;This article details how I set up a HF/VHF/UHF manpack radio.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> ==Overview==<br /> ===Design goals===<br /> Radio RF Output:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Minimum of 20W, preferable to have optional 50W+ available if needed<br /> Radio Frequency coverage:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : HF, 6 meters, 2 meters, and 70cm<br /> Radio Modes:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : FM/SSB/CW/PSK<br /> Radio receive current:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : preferably less than 700mA<br /> Tuner:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : 10-500ohm minimum, preferable little to no idle current<br /> Battery:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : sufficient to handle a weekend without recharging<br /> Power:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Battery, AC, or solar&lt;br&gt;<br /> Antenna:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Vertical or dipole with optional voltage balun<br /> PC:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Small netbook capable of digital modes<br /> Size:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Everything fits within a pack suitable for airplane carry-on (21x14x10&quot;).<br /> All items:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Weight as minimal as possible !<br /> Cost:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : $2500 neighborhood<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Radio===<br /> Here is a quick rundown of the radios I considered:&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Military radios==== <br /> : I looked at the PRC-104, PRC-132, PRC-138, PRC-320, PRC-1099, PRC-2000, and AEG SE-6861.<br /> : All of them are good radios. Only problem is I want HF/6/2/440 so I'm stuck<br /> : with looking at amateur radios.<br /> <br /> ====Vertex VX-1210====<br /> : This is a commercial radio ($1400+, 7.1lb w/batt, rx: 500mA, tx: 3A/5W, 5A/20W)<br /> : Very tempting but is HF only. Has option for internal autotuner and can be<br /> : set up for VFO operation. Battery is 14.4v 4AH.<br /> <br /> ====Mobat Micom 3 Pathfinder====<br /> : This is a 25W commercial radio. Excessive cost for this project. Otherwise a great radio !<br /> <br /> ====Outback radios (QMAC, Barrett, Codan)====<br /> : QMAC HF90 excessive cost &amp; no longer made, Barrett 940 too heavy (18.5lbs w/tuner battery)<br /> : Barrett 2040, Codan 2110 excessive cost.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-817ND====<br /> : Portable amateur radio ($600, 2.6lb, 8-16v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 2A/5W)<br /> : Tempting, and would pair nicely with LDG Z-817 tuner.<br /> : Only problem is I want 20W+. This could be accomplished with a Tokyo High Power HL-45B<br /> : amp ($400, 3.4 lbs, 8.5A/45W, 160-6m) + LDG Z-817H tuner.<br /> : This is a viable combination and has the benefit of low RX current.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC703+====<br /> : Amateur radio (discontinued, 4.4lb, 9-15.8v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 3A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Nice radio, big and easily readable display, built in autotuner. Wish it did 2m/440<br /> : like its bigger brother (IC-706).<br /> <br /> ====Elecraft KX3====<br /> : Portable amateur radio (new to market, 1.5lb, 8-14v(?), rx: 150-???mA, tx: ?A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Great display and control layout located on what would normally be considered the &quot;top&quot;<br /> : of the radio which gives ample room compared to other radios. Built in autotuner. CW paddles<br /> : right on front of the radio. I would have liked to see a little more than 10W however its<br /> : certainly a reasonable and usable amount of power (and better than 5W). Has option for <br /> : an external KXPA100 100W amp and KXAT100 tuner. Overall it is an exciting product and I <br /> : probably would have bought one if I wasn't looking to have 2m/440 in the same radio.<br /> : I don't know if it supports CTCSS for 10m FM repeaters and CTCSS/DCS for 6m FM repeaters.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC706MK2G====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 5.5lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1800-2000mA, tx: 20A/100W)<br /> : RX current way too high, VHF frontend easily overloads. Nice display as with the IC703<br /> : above. The RX current is a deal breaker for battery ops. <br /> <br /> ====Icom IC7000====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($1200, 5.1lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1300-1600mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : Nice radio. RX current better than IC706 but still a little on the high side for battery ops.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-897D====<br /> : Mobile/portable amateur radio ($900, 8.6lb, 11.7-15.9v, rx: 600-1000mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : HF/50 MHz:5 watts = 4.0-4.7 amps 10 watts = 5.3-6.4 amps 25 watts = 7.3-9.2 amps 50 watts = 10.6-12.9 amps<br /> : 144 MHz: 5 watts = 3.4 amps 10 watts = 4.2 amps 25 watts = 6.3 amps 50 watts = 9.4 amps<br /> : 420 MHz: 5 watts = 4.2 amps 10 watts = 5.6 amps 20 watts = 8.7 amps<br /> :<br /> : Designed for field ops and has room for internal batteries (13.2v, 9AH) however the batteries<br /> : add an additional 6.5lbs to a radio which is already heavy at 8.6lbs. One option is to run your<br /> : own external battery which gives you room to install an internal 120V power supply. Overall<br /> : I really like this radio but its ruggedness will cost you in weight. You can get the FT-857D<br /> : (sacrificing the 897's rugged case and internal battery space) and save 4lbs on your back.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-857D====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 4.6lb, 12.4-15.2v,<br /> : rx: 600-1000mA (spec) 650-700mA (green/red backlight) 590mA (backlight off)<br /> : tx: 2A/5W 5A/15W 22A/100W)<br /> : Unlike the FT-897D above, this radio does not come with a TCXO. By the time you spend $100 on<br /> : the TCXO you end up with about the same radio as the FT-897D for the same price. Comparing the<br /> : FT-857D to the FT-897D has some pluses: 4lbs lighter, detachable head, and easier to mount mobile.<br /> : The minuses are we don't get the rugged case and battery space. I don't think either of these<br /> : minuses will matter as the radio and batteries will end up in a pack. One other thing to note is<br /> : both the 857 and 897 will automatically limit the radio to 20W when running on battery power<br /> : (by grounding the brown wire on the power connector).<br /> : Spec says voltage is 12.4-15.2, manual says 11.73-15.87.<br /> : The 857's signal will start sounding bad at about 11.75v.<br /> <br /> Given everything above it came down to deciding between the FT-857D and FT-897D.&lt;br&gt;<br /> I chose the FT-857D because its 4lbs lighter than the FT-897D. Every pound counts when backpacking !&lt;br&gt;<br /> The radio is best equipped with: tcxo-9, keypad mic, (2) W4RT/inrad.net filters.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Tuner===<br /> For honorable mention we have the long-discontinued Kenwood AT-130 which is a very small 80-10m(+WARC)&lt;br&gt;<br /> manual tuner (6 x 2.4 x 6.3 inches, 3.5 lbs.). For field ops I prefer a small autotuner. Yaesu makes the&lt;br&gt;<br /> FC-30 ($170, 17-150 ohms, 3.1 x 1.8 x 10.2 in, 2.2 lbs) however its 17-150 ohm tuning range is quite&lt;br&gt;<br /> narrow compared to the LDG product line.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the breakdown of the LDG products I looked at. All of them have latching relays.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> : $200 LDG YT-100 for 857/897 100w 4-800 ohm 7 x 7 x 2 1.5lbs<br /> : $200 LDG AT-897+ for 857/897 100w 6-800 ohm 11.5 x 3.25 x 1.5 2.0lbs<br /> : $160 Z100+ ? 125w 6-800 ohm 5.5 x 5.5 x 1.5 1 lb w/o batts<br /> : $170 Z11pro2 6-1000 ohm 7.7 x 5.0 x 1.5 1.5lb w/o batts<br /> &lt;br&gt; <br /> I ended up going with the Z11pro2 as it can autotune based on RF sense which keeps the CAT and ACC ports free. This is good because we&lt;br&gt;<br /> need both ports for our data interface. Another bonus of RF sense tuning is it makes the radio PC-ALE capable provided the antenna is&lt;br&gt;<br /> tunable on whatever ALE frequencies are to be used.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device on the left is the data/soundcard interface&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[File:FT857_and_tuner.jpg]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Battery===<br /> The following text describes how to build a battery pack. If you do not want to build this battery pack then you can buy one already built. For example you can look up &quot;ZIPPY Flightmax 8400mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack&quot; which currently sells for about $75. You will need to find a suitable charger for it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> I initially considered using 11 Accupower NiMH low-discharge &quot;D&quot; cells (10aH, 1.25v, 145g ea.)&lt;br&gt;<br /> This would give us 13.75v, 10aH at 3.5lb for about $110.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After more research I went with (8) 40160S LiFePO4 batteries (16AH/ea). This project really only needs 4 of these<br /> batteries however I opted to build two battery packs. 4 of these batteries in series gives you around 13 volts.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The 40160S 16AH battery is no longer being sold. The manufacturer has replaced it with the 40152S 15AH battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Paired with each battery pack is a circuit which protects from overcharge/overdischarge/overcurrent. It also keeps the batteries balanced<br /> while charging. After a long search for a suitable lightweight container I found the 4-battery pack fits perfectly into a &quot;Huggies&quot;<br /> baby wipe plastic box. I cut a small slot in the box for a short piece of velcro which holds the lid closed. The complete pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If you intend on taking your backpack radio on a commercial aircraft, keep in mind there are restrictions on high capacity lithium ion batteries. If you believe this will be a problem you can build a pack from 11 NiMH D cells or use a pre-made NiMH RC pack. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Notice the top door works great for the powerpole.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is a view of the internals. The protection circuit board is on the top.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The AC adapter/charger===<br /> I wanted enough beef for the radio to do 20W off the adapter. I ended up getting IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter<br /> for about $14 off ebay. It is relatively small and weighs 0.4 lb. I run it through a bridge rectifier which reduces the voltage to 14.8V which is suitable for operating the radio and charging the battery pack. Of course running DC through a bridge rectifier only uses two of the four diodes however it was an inexpensive solution which is much easier than standalone diodes to mount to the cable/fuse.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I found that the battery pack can draw up to 8A during charging so I used a 10A fuse on the power supply. Yes, I know the power supply is only rated at 7.5A and putting a 10A fuse on it is not good practice. So far it hasn't been a problem. During charging the bridge rectifier can get quite hot so make sure it is on a non-flammable surface. The obvious solution to all this would be a series current limiting resistor which is something I'll look into when I get the time.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> For now I am charging the battery pack with a small smart charger (Noco Genius G3500) which is set for a standard 12V battery at a 3.5A charge rate. It just so happens that its output voltage on this setting is just right for charging the LiFePO4 battery. The Noco Genius is a handy little charger as it is also good for charging and topping off car batteries, AGM batteries, 12V 7AH brick batteries, etc. and it will float the batteries without overcharging them. Another nice thing about this charger is its small enough to fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ac_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Solar Panel===<br /> PowerFilm F15-1200 20W (10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6&quot; 1 lb )&lt;br&gt;<br /> Nice compact and light panel but a little pricey at $10/watt. I would have gone with their 30W panel but it was even more overpriced.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the solar panel<br /> [[File:W7ki_solar_panel.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Computer===<br /> EEEPC 1000h. Small battery-efficient netbook with 10&quot; screen. Used it because I had it on hand. Any netbook would probably do ok so<br /> long as it has mic/headphone jacks. One bonus of this particular computer is you can feed it 12VDC direct.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the computer<br /> [[File:W7ki_netbook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Data Interface===<br /> Homemade. Nothing fancy, just some audio isolation transformers, a level converter, and a PTT transistor.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The data interface and the tuner are attached to the mobile mounting bracket with velcro. Note how the mobile bracket is angled such that the front of the tuner is slightly elevated. This was done to give some clearance to the radio speaker and also helps to direct the audio out of the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_data_interface1.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Antenna===<br /> I looked at a variety of compact antennas (Outbacker Joey, Outbacker Stealth Plus, ATX-W38 walkabout, ATX-DHP, and a handful<br /> of others). It was difficult to find anything that would collapse to under 18 inches (requirement for the pack I'm using). It was probably just as well<br /> since many &quot;portable&quot; antennas are helical which I personally despise.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My original intent was to buy a &quot;Buddi&quot; product and evaluate how it worked in a vertical configuration. The only issue was whether their 80 meter coil would fit in the pack. I emailed them multiple times asking the dimensions of the coil but unfortunately all of my emails were ignored. This probably speaks volumes as to how they handle issues after a sale so I thought it best not to do business with them until their customer communication improves.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Of all the pre-made antennas I found The SuperAntenna MP1B SuperStick would likely be the best off the shelf solution as it collapses to 12 inches and weighs under 2 pounds. When I first wrote this article their company had no products available which I believe was due to a transition in ownership. Their products are now available again and I plan on trying one out. I would buy the MP1B antenna, TM1 mount, and optionally MC60 coil for 60 meters and MC80 coil for 80 meters. A properly adjusted SuperAntenna requires no tuner however you need to use a correct length ground radial. This is my recommendation if you do not want to build an antenna. The text past this point describes how to build an antenna/coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I ended up using a military AT271-A/PRC antenna. It is a 7 section antenna with a 3/8-24 base that extends to 113.5 inches and collapses to 17 inches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> It has an optional 8 inch spring (AB-129/PR) which I am not currently using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:At271a.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As an alternative I found an 8.5' collapsible aluminum pole made for measuring snowpacks and after some tinkering it worked like a charm.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pole_antenna.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Either of these antennas is very usable on HF when paired with a couple of 18&quot; aluminum extender rods and a large tapped coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_big_coil.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> Obviously running a huge coil with a short antenna is about as worthless as a short helical so its important to remember to use as much whip or longwire as you can if you<br /> are less than 1/4 wave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a horizontal option I built a tapped voltage balun which attaches to a vertical extension arm and connects to two spools of wire.<br /> [[File:W7ki_horiz_setup.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;The wire spools can also be used as a counterpoise for vertical configurations.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the bottom is a carbon fiber camera monopod which we use as a vertical extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the top is a carpal tunnel wrist strap which is used for attaching the monopod extension arm to the pack aluminum extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is wound on Coleman camping clothesline spools.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Another HF antenna option is to build the St. Louis Vertical: http://www.amqrp.org/projects/stluisvert/STLV%20Project.html&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For VHF/UHF I have a 17&quot; dual-band antenna. For VHF only you can also put one of the 18&quot; aluminum rods onto the 1&quot; antenna mount.&lt;br&gt;<br /> 6 meters can be done with the 17&quot; antenna on top of both 18&quot; rods.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Pack===<br /> I looked at dozens of packs before settling on the Jansport Driver 8. Most other packs were either oversized and/or too heavy.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My reasoning for a 21x14x10&quot; size limit is so you can carry this on a commercial airplane if you are traveling. You certainly wouldn't want<br /> to check this as luggage as it would probably get destroyed by handling or stolen.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Two main things I liked about the Driver 8 are the wheels and the telescoping arm. The telescoping arm is wonderful because it is very sturdy<br /> aluminum which allows you to securely attach an antenna to it. This is great for manpack operations if you want the antenna up while you are<br /> walking around with the pack on your back. It also works great for fixed operations as the pack itself can be used as an antenna base.<br /> The wheels not only give your back a break where smooth surfaces are available, they also give you the ability to easily lay down the pack when assembling a long antenna. Its like having a mini fold over tower.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The wheels are inline skate wheels and have a very low ground clearance. It will roll fine inside buildings or on a paved sidewalk. The wheels will not work on a trail. This is unfortunate as it is much easier to pull 35 lbs on wheels than to heft it on your back. One possible solution to this is to run a 1/2 inch rod (or thread stock?) along the bottom of the pack and install a pair of 10&quot; x 1.75 lightweight plastic wheels. I would use Martin Wheel part number 110 wheels because they come with metal ball bearings.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:w7ki_pack_radio.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Construction and Setup==<br /> A complete materials and sources list is at the end of this article.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Extension Rods and Antenna===<br /> To make the aluminum extension rods you need a 3 foot piece of aluminum rod. Cut the rod into 3 pieces, 2 of them will be 17 inches long and the third piece will be the remaining 2 inches.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take a 21/64 inch drill bit and drill about 1.5 inches into both ends of the 17 inch rods. Be careful to drill straight. Once this is done tap threads into both ends with a 3/8-24 tap. Tapping threads into aluminum generates a tremendous amount of heat so remember to tap slowly and use an oil lubricant. Right after tapping these rods I bumped one of them with my arm and got a very nasty burn.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the tapping is done thread a 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud into both ends of the rods. Then, for each rod, put a 3/8-24 jam nut over the stud on one end and put a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut over the stud on the other end. When you are done it should look like the picture below.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> This section deals with constructing the antenna if you chose not to buy an AT-271 antenna:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now grab the remaining 2 inch piece of aluminum rod. Drill one end 1 inch deep with a size F (.2443 inch) bit then drill the other end 1 inch deep with the 21/64 inch drill bit you used for the other rods. Tap 5/16-18 threads into the size F end and 3/8-24 threads into the 21/64 end.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take the aluminum antenna, remove the lanyard string, push in the lower release spring button and shove it up the tube a couple inches, and tap the bottom for 5/16-18 threads. The two photos below show the start and finish of tapping the threads. I seriously do not recommend using vise-grips as shown in the photos. The antenna deforms very easily. It would be much better to lightly use a vise which can distribute the grip better with much less crush force. Again, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CRUSH OR DEFORM THE TUBE. I darn near destroyed the prototype using vise-grips.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Next we take a 1.5 inch 5/16-18 stud and thread half of it into the antenna. This is generally difficult to do so I recommend tightening two 5/16-18 nuts against each other onto the stud and use the outer nut with a wrench. Once the stud is threaded into the antenna you can thread the 2 inch aluminum rod onto the stud, then thread a 3/8-24 stud into the other end of the rod. Put a 3/8-24 jam nut onto the exposed threads. What you have done here is built a 5/16-18 to 3/8-24 thread adapter. The photo below shows what the finished product should look like.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rod_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The next step is to modify the antenna to make it conductive. The anodized surfaces do not conduct electricity so you need to take some sandpaper and sand out the inside of the bottom of each rod (about 3/4 inch should do). Another issue is the tapered inserts which are crimped into the top of the rods. These don't conduct either so you need to lightly bond them with an arc weld. This should be done with a MIG or TIG welder. Remember to sand the surfaces first, including the entire tapered section. I cheesed mine by using two truck batteries, a pair of jumper cables, and some real thin aluminum wire. Some people refer to this as hillbilly arc welding. Please don't do this unless you know the risks, know what you are doing, and you are using appropriate eye protection. Verify the end to end continuity of the antenna with an ohmmeter when you are done. Here is what mine looked like when it was done.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_hillbilly_weld.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The final step is to flatten out the pointed tip of the antenna rod. You can do this with a grinder or file.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Coil===<br /> The coil is made from a 7 3/4 inch piece of 4 inch diameter drainpipe with a drainpipe cap on each end. To make room for more coil turns we cut 1 3/8 inch off the end of the drainpipe cap. You need to cut two end caps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Locate the center of each cap, tap the center with a center punch or nail, drill a 1/8&quot; pilot hole, then drill in again with a 3/8&quot; bit.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now we take a piece of 1/4 inch schedule 80 pvc pipe and drill/tap it for 3/8-24 threads the same way you did the aluminum rods (except please don't use lubricating oil). Its important to use schedule 80 pipe as it has the correct inside diameter for tapping threads. The pipe should be about 7 1/2 inches long and later you might have to make some slight length adjustments for fit. Once your threads are tapped you can thread a 1.5 inch 3/8-24 stud into each end then put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer over the end (see photo below). Put one end into an end cap, put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer on the outside of the end cap, stack one 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal on top of the washer, and secure it with a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut stacked on top of the ring terminal.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Put the other end cap on. On the outside stack a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer, a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal, and a 3/8-24 jam nut.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to cover up any holes in the drainpipe with a square of duct tape.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To make the coil, glue 4 pieces of .065 Nylon Edge Trim as shown in the photo (credit to Phil AD5X for finding this edge trim). When cutting them to length, remember to offset each one to correctly accommodate a spirally-wound coil. Once this is done, drill a .065&quot; diagonal hole from the edge of the cap through the top of each cap (see photo), thread the wire through the hole and wind the coil with .064&quot; (14AWG) tin coated copper wire. Remember to keep tension on the coil or else it will wind loosely. The wire is stiff and doesn't come off the coil perfectly so there will be some manual coil alignment/straightening to do after the coil is wound. Once the coil is wound, put the ends thorough the 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminals, then cut &amp; solder. Be careful of heat damage to the plastic while soldering. Its usually best to loosen the end nuts prior to soldering as it will conduct less heat away from the ring terminals.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_end.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The coil tap is an EZ-Hook XM attached to a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal with an 11 inch piece of 22-gauge 7-strand insulated hookup wire. Attach the ring terminal above the coil ring terminal as shown in the photo.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_tap.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The EZ-Hook XM works great for 17AWG wire however its a little small for our 14AWG coil. The hook can be slightly adjusted with needlenose pliers to fit the 14AWG wire. The picture below shows the modified hook profile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ezhook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As built, the coil specs out like this: 7&quot; length, 4.25&quot; dia, 50 turns, 14ga .063 (spaced) = 129uH&lt;br&gt;<br /> Its a little overkill on the size &amp; inductance but it gives a lot of flexibility with short antennas.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Balun===<br /> The balun is based on a design by WB6ZQZ. His design appears to be a bifilar current balun in series with a quadrifilar voltage balun. We are only interested in the quadrifilar transformer because we will be using an external ferrite choke on the feedline (which allows us to use the choke for antenna configurations that don't use the voltage balun). Here is a link to instructions on how to wind the quadrifilar transformer:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> http://www.antennalaunchers.com/trb/photos.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Use 16ga enameled wire and a F-125-K toroid. Once the transformer is wound you can mount it on a small piece of plastic with holes drilled for the wires. Attach the wires to each other as per his schematic diagram and PC board photos.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mount the completed toroid into a 3x2x1 inch Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box. Install an SO-239 connector into the bottom of the box. For terminals I used (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts/nuts/wingnuts which are available at a home-improvement store. Label the terminals for Common, 50, 25, and 12 ohms. Attach a short piece of velcro to the back side which allows for mounting.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Antenna Mount &amp; Wire Spools===<br /> The antenna mount uses 1/4-20 hardware. I recommend replacing two of the nuts with wingnuts. Cut an 11 foot piece of Belden 8219 RG58A/U and loop it twice through two Laird LFB187102 ferrites as shown in the photo below. The coax fits tightly and we do not want to stretch it while pulling it through the ferrites so use a non-petroleum lubricant (I used cooking spray). Once this is done you can put UG-175/U reducers on the cable and solder a PL259 connector on each end.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_choke.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is spooled on a (2) Coleman 827E140T colthesline reels (thanks to Richard WA6KYR for finding these). Each Coleman reel comes with 21 feet of nylon cord. Pull all the cord out and cut off 13 feet so there is 8 feet remaining on the spool. Attach 59 1/2 feet of 22AWG insulated hookup wire to the end of the nylon cord. You can do this by stripping the end of the wire and pushing it through the middle of the nylon cord about 1/2 inch from the end, then secure the end of the nylon cord by lightly melting it with a lighter or soldering iron. Now you can reel in the wire. If it gets stuck you can open the reel with a 1/3 turn of the enclosure shell. Attach a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal to the end of the wire.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you are wondering why we use 59 1/2 feet it is because its the only length available that is reasonably close for loading at 75-80m and is not an even 1/2-wavelength multiple of any amateur band from 6m-40m (in fact we can go +/- 3 feet before bumping into one of these multiples. You should be able to roll this out to full length and tune any amateur band from 80m-6m. It also makes a good antenna to use with ALE and our RF-sensing tuner.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Battery===<br /> Each battery pack is made of (4) 40160S LiFePO4 cells (3.2V 16Ah) with a battery management circuit put into a Huggies wipe box.<br /> The battery management circuit sits on top of a plastic board which is an Akro-Mils 40150 (3.3 x 7.7 x 0.1 inch). Mount the batteries in the plastic holders, wire them in series with the bus bars, mount the battery management circuit, then wire it in. I recommend using a 30 amp fuse as pictured. Once this is done attach a 30A (12-14AWG) Powerpole connector with 12-gauge wire. The battery management circuit will charge the battery up to 14.2v before it automatically cuts off. The charger should be at least 14.6v.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each 40160S cell is rated at 3.65V (Max Charge), 3.2V (Nominal), and 2.0V (Discharge cut off).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Max charge current is 5C (80A) and max discharge current is 10C (160A).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cell life is rated at 2000 charge/discharge cycles under normal use.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete battery pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Data Interface===<br /> The data interface consists of audio isolation transformers, an RS232 level converter, and a PTT transistor. The audio circuit is per the &quot;KK7UQ Interface Model II&quot; circuit although I chose not to use the potentiometers and solid state relay in the original design. The original design and documentation can be found here:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://kk7uq.com/html/download/Manual2E.pdf<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The RS232 level converter is per a circuit attributed to OE1RIB.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I decided not to go with the Yaseu CT62 cable because I wanted the ability to use the DTR line for PTT (which is much cleaner for automated CW than keying with serial commands). Don't get me wrong here, I prefer a key, however flexibility was one of the design goals. I modified the level converter circuit to take power from the radio rather than trying to rob it from DTR/CTS with diodes. There is also a DPDT toggle switch on the back of the data interface which is an &quot;OFF&quot; switch (cuts the power from the radio and cuts the PTT line). I looked at off-the-shelf interfaces and most of them were either too big or required power for the audio circuitry.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Use a USB-serial converter if your computer doesn't have a serial port. I recommend using converters with the FTDI chipset for best performance and OS compatibility (I used USBG-RS232-F12 from usbgear.com).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the actual circuit I used to build the data interface:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to leave clearance for the jacks and switches when laying out the components on the PC board.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Velcro attachment<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Mounted to radio<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To connect the interface box to the radio I used a short piece of cat5 network cable wired like this&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT RD W-Br&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT TD W-G&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT + Br-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT GND G-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Data Out12 O-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data In W-Bl&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data PTT W-O&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data GND Bl-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The mini-din connectors go in very tight so beware of non-functioning or partial connections when you do this. Once you get them seated properly they work great and stay in place. Make sure to notch the back of the connector sleeves so the cables can exit at 90 degrees. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In the above photo you will also notice a connector/adapter contraption covered with electrical tape. These UHF right-angle adapters were used because the radio rests on its back side in the pack and we don't want the weight of the radio sitting on a PL259 connector and pinching the coax. All UHF right-angle adapters are not created equal. Most of them are garbage and use a small internal spring to connect the center conductor. The correct part to use is Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U. The adapter connecting the radio to the tuner is two of the Amphenol right-angle adapters connected with a short piece of LMR-600 with the center conductor diameter ground down from 0.176&quot; to 0.157&quot;. The length of the LMR600 and the mounting position of the tuner are critical because you don't want to obstruct the ports on the rear of the radio. As you can see in the photo below, this arrangement makes the back of the radio very compact which helps it fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_back.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Power Wiring===<br /> On the power supply you can add a third powerpole connector which is jumped to ground. When the third connector is also done on the radio side (connected to the radio brown wire) it forces the radio to 20W when plugged into the supply. This is good because our power supply is only rated for 7.5 amps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The power cable is 24 inches of 12-gauge red/black zipcord with a third wire for sensing low-power mode. Additionally it has a 16 inch length of zipcord for the tuner with a 2.5x5.5mm right-angle connector. As with the OEM cable, the 12-gauge cable splits off into two 14-gauge cables at the connector. You will notice that there are no fuses on this cable. I didn't bother because all my power sources for the pack are fused. In hindsight it would be prudent to put 30A fuses on both the positive and negative wires.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Third Powerpole connector for low power sense.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Connector end detail<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Monopod===<br /> The monopod is used to elevate the feedpoint of the dipole or a short vertical antenna. It is carbon fiber, weighs only 19oz, and extends to 68&quot;.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The monopod needs to be shortened to fit into the pack. Going around the perimeter of the small end rod, cut off the bottom half of the top rubber cap. This will allow the rod to collapse about an additional 1/2 inch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The bottom cap can be removed by pushing in the two roll pins with a small center punch. Then, with the rod fully collapsed, you will see there is about 13/16 inch you can saw off the big end without hitting the smaller rods that collapse inside of it. The photo below shows it after the cut.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Radio setup===<br /> Here is how I set mine up&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 7.000mhz<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to on.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 19&quot; (CAT Rate). Set it to 9600.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 29&quot; (CW Sidetone). Set it to 5.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 38&quot; (Dig Mode). Set it to PSK31-U.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 59&quot; (Mic Sel). Set it to RMT if you are using the MH-59A8J mic.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 86&quot; (TX IF Filter). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 2.3<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 50.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 144.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 20.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 446.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 10.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Enable 2.3kc filter for TX:<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push FUNC, rotate select to N, press 2.3 (above B key)<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ==Usage==<br /> The most basic setup is pulling the aluminum pack handle up one notch and attaching the mount/antenna. This can be used for a quick base setup or walking around with the pack on your back. The photo below shows the mount and 2m/70cm whip installed. If you want a somewhat useful counterpoise for 6m/2m/70cm without attaching the counterpoise wire, simply invert the feedline such that the chokes are by the radio instead of by the antenna. This way you can use the coax itself for a counterpoise. Its certainly not the best way to do it but it will work.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each aluminum rod is 18&quot; and you can use one of them by itself for a 2m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rods2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you use both rods with the 2m/70cm whip on top you will have a 6m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> You can use the monopod to elevate the a 6m/2m/70cm antenna. We use the carpal tunnel wrist strap to attach the monopod to the packs aluminum handle. The next photo looks like the leaning tower of Pisa because my first prototype was done with a medium-sized wrist strap. I have since moved to a small-sized strap which makes it stand much straighter. The monopod is good for 6m/2m/70cm verticals and for holding the feedpoint of a dipole. Do not use the monopod with the 8-foot antenna rod and/or the large loading coil as it gets too top heavy to remain stable. The following photo shows the ground radials installed and the choke ferrite near the antenna feedpoint. For a simpler setup you can skip the ground radials and invert the feedline (so the choke ferrites are near the radio) which will make the feedline act as a counterpoise. Yes I know this was said earlier in the article but its worth repeating.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_8.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Detail of antenna mount attached to the monopod pole<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_9.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The collapsible antenna by itself will work as a quarter-wave on 10m (pictured below) and should also tune up ok on 12m. It will work as a quarter-wave on 15m if you add the two aluminum extension rods.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Attaching the coil (tapped on the lowest turn) to the antenna base with the two aluminum rods above it will tune down to 80m. This configuration will have near zero efficiency however it will allow short-range communication on 75/80m while walking around with the pack on your back.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The best vertical configuration for 80m thru 17m is attaching the two rods to the base, putting the coil on top of the rods, then putting the collapsible aluminum antenna rod on top. It is best to tilt the pack over on its wheels and assemble the antenna on the ground.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once its assembled, tilt it up by lifting the aluminum arm on the pack. The weight of the batteries do a good job of keeping the antenna in place.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you want to try 160 meters you can remove the 8 foot whip and connect one of the 59-foot wire spools to the top of the coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a dipole configuration you can strap the balun to the top of the monopod and connect our spools of wire to it. Dipoles work best when they are at least 1/4 wave above the ground. Our feedpoint impedance will typically be much less than 50 ohms because in most cases we will be less than 1/4 wave off the ground. This will be especially noticeable on 40m/80m. Attach one wire to the &quot;C&quot; (common) balun terminal and attach the other wire to either the 12, 25, or 50 ohm terminal depending on which one works best. The wire spools use 3/8 ring terminals so we can optionally connect them directly to the vertical antenna mount if you want to feed a dipole directly without the balun.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One other important thing to note about dipoles is its best to keep the ends up off the ground. There is 8 feet of nylon rope at the end of the spools which can help in getting your wire somewhere it can be secured. In my pack I also keep short plastic tent stakes and short bungee cords which can help in some situations.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_10.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> There are a few other odds &amp; ends I keep in the pack. The PL-259 center to ring terminal adapter is for using the voltage balun with the vertical antenna. The Powerpole &quot;Y&quot; cable is for running the AC adapter or solar charger while using the radio. The short 3/8-24 bolt is for attaching a dipole wire directly to the antenna mount or to the top of the coil. There are also two 8-foot stereo cables for the data adapter and a 10-foot serial cable (not pictured). (I chose 8-10' cables to keep the computer RF a little ways away from the radio/antenna). At the bottom is the usb/serial adapter and on the bottom right are short velcro cable ties for attaching the feedline to the monopole and/or aluminum pack handle.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_misc.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is how it all fits into the pack<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_11.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete pack with both batteries and the computer weighs 35 lbs.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The weight can be substantially reduced by removing the spare battery, AC adapter, computer (if you don't need it), and any antenna parts you don't plan on using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In case you are wondering where the CW key/paddles are, I'm still working on finding a solution that works well with this portable setup.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Two that have been recommended are the mini paddle from milestone technologies and the traveler light from begali.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Parts &amp; Prices==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> $799 FT857D w/YSK857<br /> $95 TCXO-9<br /> $82 MH-59A8J DTMF mic (also needed for direct freq entry)<br /> <br /> $120 W4RT2.3khz ssb filter<br /> $169 Z-11pro2<br /> <br /> $14 IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter (ebay)<br /> $2 bridge rectifier KBPC5010 (ebay)<br /> <br /> $144 (8) 16ah 40160s lifepo4 $24/ea (bmsbattery.com or manzanitamicro.com)<br /> $3 (8) 40160S battery holders 0.40/ea<br /> $4 (8) 40160S bus bar connectors 0.50/ea<br /> $80 battery shipping<br /> <br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> <br /> $97 (2) 30A Battery Management PCB http://www.batteryspace.com/pcbprotectioncircuitmodulefor4cells128vlifepo4batterypackat30alimited.aspx<br /> <br /> $11 USB to serial converter http://www.usbgear.com/computer_cable_details.cfm?sku=USBG-RS232-F12&amp;cats=199&amp;catid=482%2C199%2C601%2C461<br /> <br /> $8 3/8X24 Thread Mirror Mount: Wilson 901104<br /> $5 (20') Belden 8219 (RG58A/U) <br /> $3 (4) Amphenol 83-185-RFX (UG-175 reducer)<br /> $20 (4) Amphenol 83-822 (PL259)<br /> $10 shipping (theantennafarm.com)<br /> <br /> $79 Jansport Driver 8 TN89-008 UPC 757969203361 Wheeled Backpack (buy.com)<br /> <br /> $6 dual-band (2/440) whip with 3/8x24 mount (hamstick EDBW-1, Opek DB-1, or Workman DB-1) <br /> $4 (2) CONXPARTSA Kenwood KW2000 (Parts A)<br /> $3 (6 feet) Red &amp; Black DC wire 12 GA<br /> $9 shipping (k1cra.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (3') LMR-600 (showmecables.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 nuts (7/16&quot; head)<br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts<br /> $2 (8) 1/4&quot;-20 wingnuts<br /> $9 (10') 4&quot; drainpipe (we need one 7 3/4&quot; piece)<br /> $4 (2) 4&quot; drainpipe cap (home depot)<br /> <br /> $20 (5) littelfuse FHA30 12AWG inline fuse holder<br /> $3 (1) 5-pack of ATO 7.5 fuse (drillspot.com)<br /> <br /> $3 4' 14 gauge cable (for short part of radio power connector) (.62/ft)<br /> $1 4' 18 gauge cable (for battery sense +/- to pcb, low power wire on power cable) (.31/ft)<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (22-18) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $4 (1) 1/4&quot; (16-14) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (12-10) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $10 shipping (parts-express.com)<br /> <br /> (1) DB9F mouser 156-1309 0.80<br /> (4) BC546A mouser 512-BC546A 0.10<br /> (2) 5.6k 1/4w mouser 588-OD562JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (3) 10k 1/4w mouser 588-OD103JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (1) 3.5mm 3-pin plug (cw) (2 wires used) mouser 568-NYS231BG 1.69 (for cw jack)<br /> (1) 8-pin mini-din (cat) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2608 1.49<br /> (1) 6-pin mini-din (data) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2606 1.36<br /> (2) 600ohm 1:1 transformer mouser 42TL016-RC 1.66<br /> (2) 51 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD510JE 0.42<br /> (1) 1uf cap mouser 5989-100V1.0-F 0.71<br /> (1) .0047uf cap mouser 140-50P5-472K-RC 50v ceramic disc 0.12<br /> (1) 100 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD101JE 0.42 carbon comp 5%<br /> (1) 1k 1/4w mouser 588-OD102JE 0.42<br /> (1) board mouser 854-PR1593K $4.10 2.6 x 2.6<br /> (1) box mouser 546-1593KBK $2.88 (box is 2.6 x 2.6 x 1.1)<br /> (2) 2.2k resistor 1/2w carbon comp 5% mouser 588-OF222JE (1/4w mouser 588-OD222JE 0.42 not avail)<br /> (4) PL259 right angle Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U Mouser 523-83-1AP $14.70/ea<br /> (1) 2.5x5.5mm right angle plug (24AWG) power plug for tuner mouser 171-3216-EX $1.04/ea<br /> (2) ferrites - mouser 875-LFB187102-000 3.03/ea 3/4&quot; OD .400&quot; ID 1.125&quot; long (3 turns RG58 = 1000 ohm impedance @ 1-5mhz)<br /> (2) mouser 526-WH22-00-100 100' 22awg copper 7-strand hookup wire black nteinc.com $19 (use p/n 03-100 for orange) insulation OD 0.060&quot;<br /> (2) 3.5mm stereo jacks 502-35RAPC3BV4 2.73<br /> $112 total<br /> $12 shipping (mouser.com)<br /> <br /> $8 (1) 14-pack 3/8 ring terminal 16-14AWG (JT&amp;T 2011H - amazon.com)<br /> $18 (2) 8ft 3.5mm stereo cables (mediabridge - amazon.com)<br /> $3 21/64 (.3281&quot;) drill bit for 3/8-24 threads (amazon.com)<br /> $28 3' Aluminum 6061-T6 Seamless Round Tubing, WW-T 700/6, 1/2&quot; OD, 1/4&quot; ID, 1/8&quot; Wall, 36&quot; Length (amazon.com)<br /> $65 Opteka CFM300 68&quot; 5 Section 8x Carbon Fiber Monopod (amazon.com)<br /> $209 (1) PowerFilm F15-1200 20W solar panel 10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6 1 lb (amazon.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (4) EZ-Hook XM (digi-key 461-1004-ND)<br /> <br /> $2 Akro-Mils plastic dividers (Akro-Mils 40150 wasserstrom.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (8) 3/8-24 Jam Nuts 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (2) 3/8-24 Hex Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $10 (5) 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (10) 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer 316 Stainless Steel<br /> $7 shipping (fastener-warehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $7 (5') 1/4&quot; schedule 80 PVC pipe (usplastic.com)<br /> <br /> $14 (2) coleman 827E140T colthesline reel (coleman.com)<br /> <br /> $58 AT-271A/PRC antenna (ebay) OR $58 Voile Tourlight Avalanche Probe (8 foot) (voile-usa.com)<br /> <br /> $2 (2) 6&quot; tent stakes (rei.com)<br /> $2 (1) 4-pack of 10&quot; bungee cords (rei.com)<br /> $8 tax/shipping (rei.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) F-125-K Toroid Core 1.25&quot; 250-300 permeability low loss ferrite 1-30 mhz (theaudioguru.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (1) 1/4 lb Wire, 16ga (0.05&quot;) enameled (we need 4 feet for toroid) (allspectrum.com or jameco.com)<br /> <br /> $20 (1) 79-87283 DonJoy COMFORTFORM WRIST support-Small right (expressorthopedics.com - warning, it takes them a month to ship it)<br /> <br /> $8 Cables To Go 52030 - 6ft DB9 M/F All Lines Extension Cable Black (nextwarehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) 85085K8 25-pack nylon edge trim .065 gap width 3/16 opening, 15/64 height, 12 3/4 long<br /> $23 (1) 8871K71 80' (1 lb) spool .064&quot; (14ga) tin coated copper wire (spool says Arcor 14AWG)<br /> $2 (1) 91187A202 1.5&quot; 5/16-18 RHT stainless stud (or you can order a 10-pack for $4.55 with part number 95412A587)<br /> $10 (2) 95412A659 5-pack of 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud<br /> $9 tax/shipping (mcmaster.com)<br /> <br /> ==========<br /> $2518 approximate cost<br /> <br /> <br /> $? (1) stickyback velcro (attach tuner to radio mount)<br /> <br /> $? (1) velcro wire ties (attach coax to antenna mast)<br /> <br /> $? (1) 3/8-24 tap<br /> $? (1) 5/16-18 tap<br /> $? (1) Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box (for balun) 3x2x1&quot;<br /> <br /> $? (4) 30A (12-14AWG) red/black powerpole connector (1 for radio, 2 for batteries, 1 for AC/DC power supply)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> ==More Information==<br /> Here are some websites with great ideas for building backpack radios:<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://ec1cw.blogspot.com/2012/12/my-ft-857d-manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/321107979094<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_22/665730_Build_your_own_HF_manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://hfpack.com/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://pinztrek.com/radio/hfpack/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.dbbear.com/k0emt/projant/hfpack/</div> Thu, 26 Dec 2013 17:18:31 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:W7KI_Manpack_Radio http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/W7KI_Manpack_Radio <p>Rich:&#32;typo correction</p> <hr /> <div>[[File:FT857_and_tuner_in_pack.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;This article details how I set up a HF/VHF/UHF manpack radio.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> ==Overview==<br /> ===Design goals===<br /> Radio RF Output:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Minimum of 20W, preferable to have optional 50W+ available if needed<br /> Radio Frequency coverage:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : HF, 6 meters, 2 meters, and 70cm<br /> Radio Modes:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : FM/SSB/CW/PSK<br /> Radio receive current:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : preferably less than 700mA<br /> Tuner:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : 10-500ohm minimum, preferable little to no idle current<br /> Battery:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : sufficient to handle a weekend without recharging<br /> Power:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Battery, AC, or solar&lt;br&gt;<br /> Antenna:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Vertical or dipole with optional voltage balun<br /> PC:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Small netbook capable of digital modes<br /> Size:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Everything fits within a pack suitable for airplane carry-on (21x14x10&quot;).<br /> All items:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Weight as minimal as possible !<br /> Cost:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : $2500 neighborhood<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Radio===<br /> Here is a quick rundown of the radios I considered:&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Military radios==== <br /> : I looked at the PRC-104, PRC-132, PRC-138, PRC-320, PRC-1099, PRC-2000, and AEG SE-6861.<br /> : All of them are good radios. Only problem is I want HF/6/2/440 so I'm stuck<br /> : with looking at amateur radios.<br /> <br /> ====Vertex VX-1210====<br /> : This is a commercial radio ($1400+, 7.1lb w/batt, rx: 500mA, tx: 3A/5W, 5A/20W)<br /> : Very tempting but is HF only. Has option for internal autotuner and can be<br /> : set up for VFO operation. Battery is 14.4v 4AH.<br /> <br /> ====Mobat Micom 3 Pathfinder====<br /> : This is a 25W commercial radio. Excessive cost for this project. Otherwise a great radio !<br /> <br /> ====Outback radios (QMAC, Barrett, Codan)====<br /> : QMAC HF90 excessive cost &amp; no longer made, Barrett 940 too heavy (18.5lbs w/tuner battery)<br /> : Barrett 2040, Codan 2110 excessive cost.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-817ND====<br /> : Portable amateur radio ($600, 2.6lb, 8-16v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 2A/5W)<br /> : Tempting, and would pair nicely with LDG Z-817 tuner.<br /> : Only problem is I want 20W+. This could be accomplished with a Tokyo High Power HL-45B<br /> : amp ($400, 3.4 lbs, 8.5A/45W, 160-6m) + LDG Z-817H tuner.<br /> : This is a viable combination and has the benefit of low RX current.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC703+====<br /> : Amateur radio (discontinued, 4.4lb, 9-15.8v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 3A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Nice radio, big and easily readable display, built in autotuner. Wish it did 2m/440<br /> : like its bigger brother (IC-706).<br /> <br /> ====Elecraft KX3====<br /> : Portable amateur radio (new to market, 1.5lb, 8-14v(?), rx: 150-???mA, tx: ?A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Great display and control layout located on what would normally be considered the &quot;top&quot;<br /> : of the radio which gives ample room compared to other radios. Built in autotuner. CW paddles<br /> : right on front of the radio. I would have liked to see a little more than 10W however its<br /> : certainly a reasonable and usable amount of power (and better than 5W). Has option for <br /> : an external KXPA100 100W amp and KXAT100 tuner. Overall it is an exciting product and I <br /> : probably would have bought one if I wasn't looking to have 2m/440 in the same radio.<br /> : I don't know if it supports CTCSS for 10m FM repeaters and CTCSS/DCS for 6m FM repeaters.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC706MK2G====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 5.5lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1800-2000mA, tx: 20A/100W)<br /> : RX current way too high, VHF frontend easily overloads. Nice display as with the IC703<br /> : above. The RX current is a deal breaker for battery ops. <br /> <br /> ====Icom IC7000====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($1200, 5.1lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1300-1600mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : Nice radio. RX current better than IC706 but still a little on the high side for battery ops.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-897D====<br /> : Mobile/portable amateur radio ($900, 8.6lb, 11.7-15.9v, rx: 600-1000mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : HF/50 MHz:5 watts = 4.0-4.7 amps 10 watts = 5.3-6.4 amps 25 watts = 7.3-9.2 amps 50 watts = 10.6-12.9 amps<br /> : 144 MHz: 5 watts = 3.4 amps 10 watts = 4.2 amps 25 watts = 6.3 amps 50 watts = 9.4 amps<br /> : 420 MHz: 5 watts = 4.2 amps 10 watts = 5.6 amps 20 watts = 8.7 amps<br /> :<br /> : Designed for field ops and has room for internal batteries (13.2v, 9AH) however the batteries<br /> : add an additional 6.5lbs to a radio which is already heavy at 8.6lbs. One option is to run your<br /> : own external battery which gives you room to install an internal 120V power supply. Overall<br /> : I really like this radio but its ruggedness will cost you in weight. You can get the FT-857D<br /> : (sacrificing the 897's rugged case and internal battery space) and save 4lbs on your back.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-857D====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 4.6lb, 12.4-15.2v,<br /> : rx: 600-1000mA (spec) 650-700mA (green/red backlight) 590mA (backlight off)<br /> : tx: 2A/5W 5A/15W 22A/100W)<br /> : Unlike the FT-897D above, this radio does not come with a TCXO. By the time you spend $100 on<br /> : the TCXO you end up with about the same radio as the FT-897D for the same price. Comparing the<br /> : FT-857D to the FT-897D has some pluses: 4lbs lighter, detachable head, and easier to mount mobile.<br /> : The minuses are we don't get the rugged case and battery space. I don't think either of these<br /> : minuses will matter as the radio and batteries will end up in a pack. One other thing to note is<br /> : both the 857 and 897 will automatically limit the radio to 20W when running on battery power<br /> : (by grounding the brown wire on the power connector).<br /> : Spec says voltage is 12.4-15.2, manual says 11.73-15.87.<br /> : The 857's signal will start sounding bad at about 11.75v.<br /> <br /> Given everything above it came down to deciding between the FT-857D and FT-897D.&lt;br&gt;<br /> I chose the FT-857D because its 4lbs lighter than the FT-897D. Every pound counts when backpacking !&lt;br&gt;<br /> The radio is best equipped with: tcxo-9, keypad mic, (2) W4RT/inrad.net filters.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Tuner===<br /> For honorable mention we have the long-discontinued Kenwood AT-130 which is a very small 80-10m(+WARC)&lt;br&gt;<br /> manual tuner (6 x 2.4 x 6.3 inches, 3.5 lbs.). For field ops I prefer a small autotuner. Yaesu makes the&lt;br&gt;<br /> FC-30 ($170, 17-150 ohms, 3.1 x 1.8 x 10.2 in, 2.2 lbs) however its 17-150 ohm tuning range is quite&lt;br&gt;<br /> narrow compared to the LDG product line.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the breakdown of the LDG products I looked at. All of them have latching relays.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> : $200 LDG YT-100 for 857/897 100w 4-800 ohm 7 x 7 x 2 1.5lbs<br /> : $200 LDG AT-897+ for 857/897 100w 6-800 ohm 11.5 x 3.25 x 1.5 2.0lbs<br /> : $160 Z100+ ? 125w 6-800 ohm 5.5 x 5.5 x 1.5 1 lb w/o batts<br /> : $170 Z11pro2 6-1000 ohm 7.7 x 5.0 x 1.5 1.5lb w/o batts<br /> &lt;br&gt; <br /> I ended up going with the Z11pro2 as it can autotune based on RF sense which keeps the CAT and ACC ports free. This is good because we&lt;br&gt;<br /> need both ports for our data interface. Another bonus of RF sense tuning is it makes the radio PC-ALE capable provided the antenna is&lt;br&gt;<br /> tunable on whatever ALE frequencies are to be used.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device on the left is the data/soundcard interface&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[File:FT857_and_tuner.jpg]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Battery===<br /> The following text describes how to build a battery pack. If you do not want to build this battery pack then you can buy one already built. For example you can look up &quot;ZIPPY Flightmax 8400mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack&quot; which currently sells for about $75. You will need to find a suitable charger for it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> I initially considered using 11 Accupower NiMH low-discharge &quot;D&quot; cells (10aH, 1.25v, 145g ea.)&lt;br&gt;<br /> This would give us 13.75v, 10aH at 3.5lb for about $110.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After more research I went with (8) 40160S LiFePO4 batteries (16AH/ea). This project really only needs 4 of these<br /> batteries however I opted to build two battery packs. 4 of these batteries in series gives you around 13 volts.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The 40160S 16AH battery is no longer being sold. The manufacturer has replaced it with the 40152S 15AH battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Paired with each battery pack is a circuit which protects from overcharge/overdischarge/overcurrent. It also keeps the batteries balanced<br /> while charging. After a long search for a suitable lightweight container I found the 4-battery pack fits perfectly into a &quot;Huggies&quot;<br /> baby wipe plastic box. I cut a small slot in the box for a short piece of velcro which holds the lid closed. The complete pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If you intend on taking your backpack radio on a commercial aircraft, keep in mind there are restrictions on high capacity lithium ion batteries. If you believe this will be a problem you can build a pack from 11 NiMH D cells or use a pre-made NiMH RC pack. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Notice the top door works great for the powerpole.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is a view of the internals. The protection circuit board is on the top.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The AC adapter/charger===<br /> I wanted enough beef for the radio to do 20W off the adapter. I ended up getting IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter<br /> for about $14 off ebay. It is relatively small and weighs 0.4 lb. I run it through a bridge rectifier which reduces the voltage to 14.8V which is suitable for operating the radio and charging the battery pack. Of course running DC through a bridge rectifier only uses two of the four diodes however it was an inexpensive solution which is much easier than standalone diodes to mount to the cable/fuse.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I found that the battery pack can draw up to 8A during charging so I used a 10A fuse on the power supply. Yes, I know the power supply is only rated at 7.5A and putting a 10A fuse on it is not good practice. So far it hasn't been a problem. During charging the bridge rectifier can get quite hot so make sure it is on a non-flammable surface. The obvious solution to all this would be a series current limiting resistor which is something I'll look into when I get the time.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> For now I am charging the battery pack with a small smart charger (Noco Genius G3500) which is set for a standard 12V battery at a 3.5A charge rate. It just so happens that its output voltage on this setting is just right for charging the LiFePO4 battery. The Noco Genius is a handy little charger as it is also good for charging and topping off car batteries, AGM batteries, 12V 7AH brick batteries, etc. and it will float the batteries without overcharging them. Another nice thing about this charger is its small enough to fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ac_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Solar Panel===<br /> PowerFilm F15-1200 20W (10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6&quot; 1 lb )&lt;br&gt;<br /> Nice compact and light panel but a little pricey at $10/watt. I would have gone with their 30W panel but it was even more overpriced.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the solar panel<br /> [[File:W7ki_solar_panel.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Computer===<br /> EEEPC 1000h. Small battery-efficient netbook with 10&quot; screen. Used it because I had it on hand. Any netbook would probably do ok so<br /> long as it has mic/headphone jacks. One bonus of this particular computer is you can feed it 12VDC direct.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the computer<br /> [[File:W7ki_netbook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Data Interface===<br /> Homemade. Nothing fancy, just some audio isolation transformers, a level converter, and a PTT transistor.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The data interface and the tuner are attached to the mobile mounting bracket with velcro. Note how the mobile bracket is angled such that the front of the tuner is slightly elevated. This was done to give some clearance to the radio speaker and also helps to direct the audio out of the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_data_interface1.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Antenna===<br /> I looked at a variety of compact antennas (Outbacker Joey, Outbacker Stealth Plus, ATX-W38 walkabout, ATX-DHP, and a handful<br /> of others). It was difficult to find anything that would collapse to under 18 inches (requirement for the pack I'm using). It was probably just as well<br /> since many &quot;portable&quot; antennas are helical which I personally despise.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My original intent was to buy a &quot;Buddi&quot; product and evaluate how it worked in a vertical configuration. The only issue was whether their 80 meter coil would fit in the pack. I emailed them multiple times asking the dimensions of the coil but unfortunately all of my emails were ignored. This probably speaks volumes as to how they handle issues after a sale so I thought it best not to do business with them until their customer communication improves.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Of all the pre-made antennas I found The SuperAntenna MP1B SuperStick would likely be the best off the shelf solution as it collapses to 12 inches and weighs under 2 pounds. When I first wrote this article their company had no products available which I believe was due to a transition in ownership. Their products are now available again and I plan on trying one out. I would buy the MP1B antenna, TM1 mount, and optionally MC60 coil for 60 meters and MC80 coil for 80 meters. A properly adjusted SuperAntenna requires no tuner however you need to use a correct length ground radial. This is my recommendation if you do not want to build an antenna. The text past this point describes how to build an antenna/coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I ended up using a military AT271-A/PRC antenna. It is a 7 section antenna with a 3/8-24 base that extends to 113.5 inches and collapses to 17 inches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> It has an optional 8 inch spring (AB-129/PR) which I am not currently using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:At271a.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As an alternative I found an 8.5' collapsible aluminum pole made for measuring snowpacks and after some tinkering it worked like a charm.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pole_antenna.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Either of these antennas is very usable on HF when paired with a couple of 18&quot; aluminum extender rods and a large tapped coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_big_coil.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> Obviously running a huge coil with a short antenna is about as worthless as a short helical so its important to remember to use as much whip or longwire as you can if you<br /> are less than 1/4 wave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a horizontal option I built a tapped voltage balun which attaches to a vertical extension arm and connects to two spools of wire.<br /> [[File:W7ki_horiz_setup.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;The wire spools can also be used as a counterpoise for vertical configurations.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the bottom is a carbon fiber camera monopod which we use as a vertical extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the top is a carpal tunnel wrist strap which is used for attaching the monopod extension arm to the pack aluminum extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is wound on Coleman camping clothesline spools.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Another HF antenna option is to build the St. Louis Vertical: http://www.amqrp.org/projects/stluisvert/STLV%20Project.html&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For VHF/UHF I have a 17&quot; dual-band antenna. For VHF only you can also put one of the 18&quot; aluminum rods onto the 1&quot; antenna mount.&lt;br&gt;<br /> 6 meters can be done with the 17&quot; antenna on top of both 18&quot; rods.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Pack===<br /> I looked at dozens of packs before settling on the Jansport Driver 8. Most other packs were either oversized and/or too heavy.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My reasoning for a 21x14x10&quot; size limit is so you can carry this on a commercial airplane if you are traveling. You certainly wouldn't want<br /> to check this as luggage as it would probably get destroyed by handling or stolen.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Two main things I liked about the Driver 8 are the wheels and the telescoping arm. The telescoping arm is wonderful because it is very sturdy<br /> aluminum which allows you to securely attach an antenna to it. This is great for manpack operations if you want the antenna up while you are<br /> walking around with the pack on your back. It also works great for fixed operations as the pack itself can be used as an antenna base.<br /> The wheels not only give your back a break where smooth surfaces are available, they also give you the ability to easily lay down the pack when assembling a long antenna. Its like having a mini fold over tower.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The wheels are inline skate wheels and have a very low ground clearance. It will roll fine inside buildings or on a paved sidewalk. The wheels will not work on a trail. This is unfortunate as it is much easier to pull 35 lbs on wheels than to heft it on your back. One possible solution to this is to run a 1/2 inch rod (or thread stock?) along the bottom of the pack and install a pair of 10&quot; x 1.75 lightweight plastic wheels. I would use Martin Wheel part number 110 wheels because they come with metal ball bearings.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:w7ki_pack_radio.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Construction and Setup==<br /> A complete materials and sources list is at the end of this article.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Extension Rods and Antenna===<br /> To make the aluminum extension rods you need a 3 foot piece of aluminum rod. Cut the rod into 3 pieces, 2 of them will be 17 inches long and the third piece will be the remaining 2 inches.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take a 21/64 inch drill bit and drill about 1.5 inches into both ends of the 17 inch rods. Be careful to drill straight. Once this is done tap threads into both ends with a 3/8-24 tap. Tapping threads into aluminum generates a tremendous amount of heat so remember to tap slowly and use an oil lubricant. Right after tapping these rods I bumped one of them with my arm and got a very nasty burn.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the tapping is done thread a 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud into both ends of the rods. Then, for each rod, put a 3/8-24 jam nut over the stud on one end and put a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut over the stud on the other end. When you are done it should look like the picture below.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> This section deals with constructing the antenna if you chose not to buy an AT-271 antenna:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now grab the remaining 2 inch piece of aluminum rod. Drill one end 1 inch deep with a size F (.2443 inch) bit then drill the other end 1 inch deep with the 21/64 inch drill bit you used for the other rods. Tap 5/16-18 threads into the size F end and 3/8-24 threads into the 21/64 end.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take the aluminum antenna, remove the lanyard string, push in the lower release spring button and shove it up the tube a couple inches, and tap the bottom for 5/16-18 threads. The two photos below show the start and finish of tapping the threads. I seriously do not recommend using vise-grips as shown in the photos. The antenna deforms very easily. It would be much better to lightly use a vise which can distribute the grip better with much less crush force. Again, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CRUSH OR DEFORM THE TUBE. I darn near destroyed the prototype using vise-grips.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Next we take a 1.5 inch 5/16-18 stud and thread half of it into the antenna. This is generally difficult to do so I recommend tightening two 5/16-18 nuts against each other onto the stud and use the outer nut with a wrench. Once the stud is threaded into the antenna you can thread the 2 inch aluminum rod onto the stud, then thread a 3/8-24 stud into the other end of the rod. Put a 3/8-24 jam nut onto the exposed threads. What you have done here is built a 5/16-18 to 3/8-24 thread adapter. The photo below shows what the finished product should look like.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rod_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The next step is to modify the antenna to make it conductive. The anodized surfaces do not conduct electricity so you need to take some sandpaper and sand out the inside of the bottom of each rod (about 3/4 inch should do). Another issue is the tapered inserts which are crimped into the top of the rods. These don't conduct either so you need to lightly bond them with an arc weld. This should be done with a MIG or TIG welder. Remember to sand the surfaces first, including the entire tapered section. I cheesed mine by using two truck batteries, a pair of jumper cables, and some real thin aluminum wire. Some people refer to this as hillbilly arc welding. Please don't do this unless you know the risks, know what you are doing, and you are using appropriate eye protection. Verify the end to end continuity of the antenna with an ohmmeter when you are done. Here is what mine looked like when it was done.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_hillbilly_weld.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The final step is to flatten out the pointed tip of the antenna rod. You can do this with a grinder or file.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Coil===<br /> The coil is made from a 7 3/4 inch piece of 4 inch diameter drainpipe with a drainpipe cap on each end. To make room for more coil turns we cut 1 3/8 inch off the end of the drainpipe cap. You need to cut two end caps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Locate the center of each cap, tap the center with a center punch or nail, drill a 1/8&quot; pilot hole, then drill in again with a 3/8&quot; bit.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now we take a piece of 1/4 inch schedule 80 pvc pipe and drill/tap it for 3/8-24 threads the same way you did the aluminum rods (except please don't use lubricating oil). Its important to use schedule 80 pipe as it has the correct inside diameter for tapping threads. The pipe should be about 7 1/2 inches long and later you might have to make some slight length adjustments for fit. Once your threads are tapped you can thread a 1.5 inch 3/8-24 stud into each end then put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer over the end (see photo below). Put one end into an end cap, put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer on the outside of the end cap, stack one 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal on top of the washer, and secure it with a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut stacked on top of the ring terminal.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Put the other end cap on. On the outside stack a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer, a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal, and a 3/8-24 jam nut.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to cover up any holes in the drainpipe with a square of duct tape.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To make the coil, glue 4 pieces of .065 Nylon Edge Trim as shown in the photo (credit to Phil AD5X for finding this edge trim). When cutting them to length, remember to offset each one to correctly accommodate a spirally-wound coil. Once this is done, drill a .065&quot; diagonal hole from the edge of the cap through the top of each cap (see photo), thread the wire through the hole and wind the coil with .064&quot; (14AWG) tin coated copper wire. Remember to keep tension on the coil or else it will wind loosely. The wire is stiff and doesn't come off the coil perfectly so there will be some manual coil alignment/straightening to do after the coil is wound. Once the coil is wound, put the ends thorough the 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminals, then cut &amp; solder. Be careful of heat damage to the plastic while soldering. Its usually best to loosen the end nuts prior to soldering as it will conduct less heat away from the ring terminals.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_end.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The coil tap is an EZ-Hook XM attached to a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal with an 11 inch piece of 22-gauge 7-strand insulated hookup wire. Attach the ring terminal above the coil ring terminal as shown in the photo.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_tap.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The EZ-Hook XM works great for 17AWG wire however its a little small for our 14AWG coil. The hook can be slightly adjusted with needlenose pliers to fit the 14AWG wire. The picture below shows the modified hook profile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ezhook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As built, the coil specs out like this: 7&quot; length, 4.25&quot; dia, 50 turns, 14ga .063 (spaced) = 129uH&lt;br&gt;<br /> Its a little overkill on the size &amp; inductance but it gives a lot of flexibility with short antennas.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Balun===<br /> The balun is based on a design by WB6ZQZ. His design appears to be a bifilar current balun in series with a quadrifilar voltage balun. We are only interested in the quadrifilar transformer because we will be using an external ferrite choke on the feedline (which allows us to use the choke for antenna configurations that don't use the voltage balun). Here is a link to instructions on how to wind the quadrifilar transformer:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> http://www.antennalaunchers.com/trb/photos.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Use 16ga enameled wire and a F-125-K toroid. Once the transformer is wound you can mount it on a small piece of plastic with holes drilled for the wires. Attach the wires to each other as per his schematic diagram and PC board photos.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mount the completed toroid into a 3x2x1 inch Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box. Install an SO-239 connector into the bottom of the box. For terminals I used (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts/nuts/wingnuts which are available at a home-improvement store. Label the terminals for Common, 50, 25, and 12 ohms. Attach a short piece of velcro to the back side which allows for mounting.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Antenna Mount &amp; Wire Spools===<br /> The antenna mount uses 1/4-20 hardware. I recommend replacing two of the nuts with wingnuts. Cut an 11 foot piece of Belden 8219 RG58A/U and loop it twice through two Laird LFB187102 ferrites as shown in the photo below. The coax fits tightly and we do not want to stretch it while pulling it through the ferrites so use a non-petroleum lubricant (I used cooking spray). Once this is done you can put UG-175/U reducers on the cable and solder a PL259 connector on each end.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_choke.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is spooled on a (2) Coleman 827E140T colthesline reels (thanks to Richard WA6KYR for finding these). Each Coleman reel comes with 21 feet of nylon cord. Pull all the cord out and cut off 13 feet so there is 8 feet remaining on the spool. Attach 59 1/2 feet of 22AWG insulated hookup wire to the end of the nylon cord. You can do this by stripping the end of the wire and pushing it through the middle of the nylon cord about 1/2 inch from the end, then secure the end of the nylon cord by lightly melting it with a lighter or soldering iron. Now you can reel in the wire. If it gets stuck you can open the reel with a 1/3 turn of the enclosure shell. Attach a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal to the end of the wire.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you are wondering why we use 59 1/2 feet it is because its the only length available that is reasonably close for loading at 75-80m and is not an even 1/2-wavelength multiple of any amateur band from 6m-40m (in fact we can go +/- 3 feet before bumping into one of these multiples. You should be able to roll this out to full length and tune any amateur band from 80m-6m. It also makes a good antenna to use with ALE and our RF-sensing tuner.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Battery===<br /> Each battery pack is made of (4) 40160S LiFePO4 cells (3.2V 16Ah) with a battery management circuit put into a Huggies wipe box.<br /> The battery management circuit sits on top of a plastic board which is an Akro-Mils 40150 (3.3 x 7.7 x 0.1 inch). Mount the batteries in the plastic holders, wire them in series with the bus bars, mount the battery management circuit, then wire it in. I recommend using a 30 amp fuse as pictured. Once this is done attach a 30A (12-14AWG) Powerpole connector with 12-gauge wire. The battery management circuit will charge the battery up to 14.2v before it automatically cuts off. The charger should be at least 14.6v.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each 40160S cell is rated at 3.65V (Max Charge), 3.2V (Nominal), and 2.0V (Discharge cut off).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Max charge current is 5C (80A) and max discharge current is 10C (160A).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cell life is rated at 2000 charge/discharge cycles under normal use.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete battery pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Data Interface===<br /> The data interface consists of audio isolation transformers, an RS232 level converter, and a PTT transistor. The audio circuit is per the &quot;KK7UQ Interface Model II&quot; circuit although I chose not to use the potentiometers and solid state relay in the original design. The original design and documentation can be found here:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://kk7uq.com/html/download/Manual2E.pdf<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The RS232 level converter is per a circuit attributed to OE1RIB.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I decided not to go with the Yaseu CT62 cable because I wanted the ability to use the DTR line for PTT (which is much cleaner for automated CW than keying with serial commands). Don't get me wrong here, I prefer a key, however flexibility was one of the design goals. I modified the level converter circuit to take power from the radio rather than trying to rob it from DTR/CTS with diodes. There is also a DPDT toggle switch on the back of the data interface which is an &quot;OFF&quot; switch (cuts the power from the radio and cuts the PTT line). I looked at off-the-shelf interfaces and most of them were either too big or required power for the audio circuitry.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Use a USB-serial converter if your computer doesn't have a serial port. I recommend using converters with the FTDI chipset for best performance and OS compatibility (I used USBG-RS232-F12 from usbgear.com).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the actual circuit I used to build the data interface:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to leave clearance for the jacks and switches when laying out the components on the PC board.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Velcro attachment<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Mounted to radio<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To connect the interface box to the radio I used a short piece of cat5 network cable wired like this&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT RD W-Br&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT TD W-G&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT + Br-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT GND G-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Data Out12 O-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data In W-Bl&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data PTT W-O&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data GND Bl-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The mini-din connectors go in very tight so beware of non-functioning or partial connections when you do this. Once you get them seated properly they work great and stay in place. Make sure to notch the back of the connector sleeves so the cables can exit at 90 degrees. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In the above photo you will also notice a connector/adapter contraption covered with electrical tape. These UHF right-angle adapters were used because the radio rests on its back side in the pack and we don't want the weight of the radio sitting on a PL259 connector and pinching the coax. All UHF right-angle adapters are not created equal. Most of them are garbage and use a small internal spring to connect the center conductor. The correct part to use is Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U. The adapter connecting the radio to the tuner is two of the Amphenol right-angle adapters connected with a short piece of LMR-600 with the center conductor diameter ground down from 0.176&quot; to 0.157&quot;. The length of the LMR600 and the mounting position of the tuner are critical because you don't want to obstruct the ports on the rear of the radio. As you can see in the photo below, this arrangement makes the back of the radio very compact which helps it fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_back.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Power Wiring===<br /> On the power supply you can add a third powerpole connector which is jumped to ground. When the third connector is also done on the radio side (connected to the radio brown wire) it forces the radio to 20W when plugged into the supply. This is good because our power supply is only rated for 7.5 amps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The power cable is 24 inches of 12-gauge red/black zipcord with a third wire for sensing low-power mode. Additionally it has a 16 inch length of zipcord for the tuner with a 2.5x5.5mm right-angle connector. As with the OEM cable, the 12-gauge cable splits off into two 14-gauge cables at the connector. You will notice that there are no fuses on this cable. I didn't bother because all my power sources for the pack are fused. In hindsight it would be prudent to put 30A fuses on both the positive and negative wires.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Third Powerpole connector for low power sense.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Connector end detail<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Monopod===<br /> The monopod is used to elevate the feedpoint of the dipole or a short vertical antenna. It is carbon fiber, weighs only 19oz, and extends to 68&quot;.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The monopod needs to be shortened to fit into the pack. Going around the perimeter of the small end rod, cut off the bottom half of the top rubber cap. This will allow the rod to collapse about an additional 1/2 inch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The bottom cap can be removed by pushing in the two roll pins with a small center punch. Then, with the rod fully collapsed, you will see there is about 13/16 inch you can saw off the big end without hitting the smaller rods that collapse inside of it. The photo below shows it after the cut.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Radio setup===<br /> Here is how I set mine up&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 7.000mhz<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to on.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 19&quot; (CAT Rate). Set it to 9600.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 29&quot; (CW Sidetone). Set it to 5.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 38&quot; (Dig Mode). Set it to PSK31-U.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 59&quot; (Mic Sel). Set it to RMT if you are using the MH-59A8J mic.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 86&quot; (TX IF Filter). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 2.3<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 50.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 144.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 20.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 446.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 10.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Enable 2.3kc filter for TX:<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push FUNC, rotate select to N, press 2.3 (above B key)<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ==Usage==<br /> The most basic setup is pulling the aluminum pack handle up one notch and attaching the mount/antenna. This can be used for a quick base setup or walking around with the pack on your back. The photo below shows the mount and 2m/70cm whip installed. If you want a somewhat useful counterpoise for 6m/2m/70cm without attaching the counterpoise wire, simply invert the feedline such that the chokes are by the radio instead of by the antenna. This way you can use the coax itself for a counterpoise. Its certainly not the best way to do it but it will work.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each aluminum rod is 18&quot; and you can use one of them by itself for a 2m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rods2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you use both rods with the 2m/70cm whip on top you will have a 6m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> You can use the monopod to elevate the a 6m/2m/70cm antenna. We use the carpal tunnel wrist strap to attach the monopod to the packs aluminum handle. The next photo looks like the leaning tower of Pisa because my first prototype was done with a medium-sized wrist strap. I have since moved to a small-sized strap which makes it stand much straighter. The monopod is good for 6m/2m/70cm verticals and for holding the feedpoint of a dipole. Do not use the monopod with the 8-foot antenna rod and/or the large loading coil as it gets too topheavy to remain stable. The following photo shows the ground radials installed and the choke ferrite near the antenna feedpoint. For a simpler setup you can skip the ground radials and invert the feedline (so the choke ferrites are near the radio) which will make the feedline act as a counterpoise. Yes I know this was said earlier in the article but its worth repeating.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_8.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Detail of antenna mount attached to the monopod pole<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_9.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The collapsible antenna by itself will work as a quarter-wave on 10m (pictured below) and should also tune up ok on 12m. It will work as a quarter-wave on 15m if you add the two aluminum extension rods.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Attaching the coil (tapped on the lowest turn) to the antenna base with the two aluminum rods above it will tune down to 80m. This configuration will have near zero efficiency however it will allow short-range communication on 75/80m while walking around with the pack on your back.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The best vertical configuration for 80m thru 17m is attaching the two rods to the base, putting the coil on top of the rods, then putting the collapsible aluminum antenna rod on top. It is best to tilt the pack over on its wheels and assemble the antenna on the ground.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once its assembled, tilt it up by lifting the aluminum arm on the pack. The weight of the batteries do a good job of keeping the antenna in place.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you want to try 160 meters you can remove the 8 foot whip and connect one of the 59-foot wire spools to the top of the coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a dipole configuration you can strap the balun to the top of the monopod and connect our spools of wire to it. Dipoles work best when they are at least 1/4 wave above the ground. Our feedpoint impedance will typically be much less than 50 ohms because in most cases we will be less than 1/4 wave off the ground. This will be especially noticeable on 40m/80m. Attach one wire to the &quot;C&quot; (common) balun terminal and attach the other wire to either the 12, 25, or 50 ohm terminal depending on which one works best. The wire spools use 3/8 ring terminals so we can optionally connect them directly to the vertical antenna mount if you want to feed a dipole directly without the balun.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One other important thing to note about dipoles is its best to keep the ends up off the ground. There is 8 feet of nylon rope at the end of the spools which can help in getting your wire somewhere it can be secured. In my pack I also keep short plastic tent stakes and short bungee cords which can help in some situations.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_10.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> There are a few other odds &amp; ends I keep in the pack. The PL-259 center to ring terminal adapter is for using the voltage balun with the vertical antenna. The Powerpole &quot;Y&quot; cable is for running the AC adapter or solar charger while using the radio. The short 3/8-24 bolt is for attaching a dipole wire directly to the antenna mount or to the top of the coil. There are also two 8-foot stereo cables for the data adapter and a 10-foot serial cable (not pictured). (I chose 8-10' cables to keep the computer RF a little ways away from the radio/antenna). At the bottom is the usb/serial adapter and on the bottom right are short velcro cable ties for attaching the feedline to the monopole and/or aluminum pack handle.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_misc.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is how it all fits into the pack<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_11.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete pack with both batteries and the computer weighs 35 lbs.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The weight can be substantially reduced by removing the spare battery, AC adapter, computer (if you don't need it), and any antenna parts you don't plan on using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In case you are wondering where the CW key/paddles are, I'm still working on finding a solution that works well with this portable setup.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Two that have been recommended are the mini paddle from milestone technologies and the traveler light from begali.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ==Parts &amp; Prices==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> $799 FT857D w/YSK857<br /> $95 TCXO-9<br /> $82 MH-59A8J DTMF mic (also needed for direct freq entry)<br /> <br /> $120 W4RT2.3khz ssb filter<br /> $169 Z-11pro2<br /> <br /> $14 IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter (ebay)<br /> $2 bridge rectifier KBPC5010 (ebay)<br /> <br /> $144 (8) 16ah 40160s lifepo4 $24/ea (bmsbattery.com or manzanitamicro.com)<br /> $3 (8) 40160S battery holders 0.40/ea<br /> $4 (8) 40160S bus bar connectors 0.50/ea<br /> $80 battery shipping<br /> <br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> <br /> $97 (2) 30A Battery Management PCB http://www.batteryspace.com/pcbprotectioncircuitmodulefor4cells128vlifepo4batterypackat30alimited.aspx<br /> <br /> $11 USB to serial converter http://www.usbgear.com/computer_cable_details.cfm?sku=USBG-RS232-F12&amp;cats=199&amp;catid=482%2C199%2C601%2C461<br /> <br /> $8 3/8X24 Thread Mirror Mount: Wilson 901104<br /> $5 (20') Belden 8219 (RG58A/U) <br /> $3 (4) Amphenol 83-185-RFX (UG-175 reducer)<br /> $20 (4) Amphenol 83-822 (PL259)<br /> $10 shipping (theantennafarm.com)<br /> <br /> $79 Jansport Driver 8 TN89-008 UPC 757969203361 Wheeled Backpack (buy.com)<br /> <br /> $6 dual-band (2/440) whip with 3/8x24 mount (hamstick EDBW-1, Opek DB-1, or Workman DB-1) <br /> $4 (2) CONXPARTSA Kenwood KW2000 (Parts A)<br /> $3 (6 feet) Red &amp; Black DC wire 12 GA<br /> $9 shipping (k1cra.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (3') LMR-600 (showmecables.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 nuts (7/16&quot; head)<br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts<br /> $2 (8) 1/4&quot;-20 wingnuts<br /> $9 (10') 4&quot; drainpipe (we need one 7 3/4&quot; piece)<br /> $4 (2) 4&quot; drainpipe cap (home depot)<br /> <br /> $20 (5) littelfuse FHA30 12AWG inline fuse holder<br /> $3 (1) 5-pack of ATO 7.5 fuse (drillspot.com)<br /> <br /> $3 4' 14 gauge cable (for short part of radio power connector) (.62/ft)<br /> $1 4' 18 gauge cable (for battery sense +/- to pcb, low power wire on power cable) (.31/ft)<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (22-18) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $4 (1) 1/4&quot; (16-14) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (12-10) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $10 shipping (parts-express.com)<br /> <br /> (1) DB9F mouser 156-1309 0.80<br /> (4) BC546A mouser 512-BC546A 0.10<br /> (2) 5.6k 1/4w mouser 588-OD562JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (3) 10k 1/4w mouser 588-OD103JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (1) 3.5mm 3-pin plug (cw) (2 wires used) mouser 568-NYS231BG 1.69 (for cw jack)<br /> (1) 8-pin mini-din (cat) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2608 1.49<br /> (1) 6-pin mini-din (data) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2606 1.36<br /> (2) 600ohm 1:1 transformer mouser 42TL016-RC 1.66<br /> (2) 51 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD510JE 0.42<br /> (1) 1uf cap mouser 5989-100V1.0-F 0.71<br /> (1) .0047uf cap mouser 140-50P5-472K-RC 50v ceramic disc 0.12<br /> (1) 100 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD101JE 0.42 carbon comp 5%<br /> (1) 1k 1/4w mouser 588-OD102JE 0.42<br /> (1) board mouser 854-PR1593K $4.10 2.6 x 2.6<br /> (1) box mouser 546-1593KBK $2.88 (box is 2.6 x 2.6 x 1.1)<br /> (2) 2.2k resistor 1/2w carbon comp 5% mouser 588-OF222JE (1/4w mouser 588-OD222JE 0.42 not avail)<br /> (4) PL259 right angle Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U Mouser 523-83-1AP $14.70/ea<br /> (1) 2.5x5.5mm right angle plug (24AWG) power plug for tuner mouser 171-3216-EX $1.04/ea<br /> (2) ferrites - mouser 875-LFB187102-000 3.03/ea 3/4&quot; OD .400&quot; ID 1.125&quot; long (3 turns RG58 = 1000 ohm impedance @ 1-5mhz)<br /> (2) mouser 526-WH22-00-100 100' 22awg copper 7-strand hookup wire black nteinc.com $19 (use p/n 03-100 for orange) insulation OD 0.060&quot;<br /> (2) 3.5mm stereo jacks 502-35RAPC3BV4 2.73<br /> $112 total<br /> $12 shipping (mouser.com)<br /> <br /> $8 (1) 14-pack 3/8 ring terminal 16-14AWG (JT&amp;T 2011H - amazon.com)<br /> $18 (2) 8ft 3.5mm stereo cables (mediabridge - amazon.com)<br /> $3 21/64 (.3281&quot;) drill bit for 3/8-24 threads (amazon.com)<br /> $28 3' Aluminum 6061-T6 Seamless Round Tubing, WW-T 700/6, 1/2&quot; OD, 1/4&quot; ID, 1/8&quot; Wall, 36&quot; Length (amazon.com)<br /> $65 Opteka CFM300 68&quot; 5 Section 8x Carbon Fiber Monopod (amazon.com)<br /> $209 (1) PowerFilm F15-1200 20W solar panel 10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6 1 lb (amazon.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (4) EZ-Hook XM (digi-key 461-1004-ND)<br /> <br /> $2 Akro-Mils plastic dividers (Akro-Mils 40150 wasserstrom.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (8) 3/8-24 Jam Nuts 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (2) 3/8-24 Hex Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $10 (5) 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (10) 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer 316 Stainless Steel<br /> $7 shipping (fastener-warehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $7 (5') 1/4&quot; schedule 80 PVC pipe (usplastic.com)<br /> <br /> $14 (2) coleman 827E140T colthesline reel (coleman.com)<br /> <br /> $58 AT-271A/PRC antenna (ebay) OR $58 Voile Tourlight Avalanche Probe (8 foot) (voile-usa.com)<br /> <br /> $2 (2) 6&quot; tent stakes (rei.com)<br /> $2 (1) 4-pack of 10&quot; bungee cords (rei.com)<br /> $8 tax/shipping (rei.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) F-125-K Toroid Core 1.25&quot; 250-300 permeability low loss ferrite 1-30 mhz (theaudioguru.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (1) 1/4 lb Wire, 16ga (0.05&quot;) enameled (we need 4 feet for toroid) (allspectrum.com or jameco.com)<br /> <br /> $20 (1) 79-87283 DonJoy COMFORTFORM WRIST support-Small right (expressorthopedics.com - warning, it takes them a month to ship it)<br /> <br /> $8 Cables To Go 52030 - 6ft DB9 M/F All Lines Extension Cable Black (nextwarehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) 85085K8 25-pack nylon edge trim .065 gap width 3/16 opening, 15/64 height, 12 3/4 long<br /> $23 (1) 8871K71 80' (1 lb) spool .064&quot; (14ga) tin coated copper wire (spool says Arcor 14AWG)<br /> $2 (1) 91187A202 1.5&quot; 5/16-18 RHT stainless stud (or you can order a 10-pack for $4.55 with part number 95412A587)<br /> $10 (2) 95412A659 5-pack of 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud<br /> $9 tax/shipping (mcmaster.com)<br /> <br /> ==========<br /> $2518 approximate cost<br /> <br /> <br /> $? (1) stickyback velcro (attach tuner to radio mount)<br /> <br /> $? (1) velcro wire ties (attach coax to antenna mast)<br /> <br /> $? (1) 3/8-24 tap<br /> $? (1) 5/16-18 tap<br /> $? (1) Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box (for balun) 3x2x1&quot;<br /> <br /> $? (4) 30A (12-14AWG) red/black powerpole connector (1 for radio, 2 for batteries, 1 for AC/DC power supply)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> ==More Information==<br /> Here are some websites with great ideas for building backpack radios:<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://ec1cw.blogspot.com/2012/12/my-ft-857d-manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/321107979094<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_22/665730_Build_your_own_HF_manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://hfpack.com/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://pinztrek.com/radio/hfpack/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.dbbear.com/k0emt/projant/hfpack/</div> Thu, 26 Dec 2013 17:07:26 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:W7KI_Manpack_Radio http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/W7KI_Manpack_Radio <p>Rich:&#32;Added links to other backpack radio websites</p> <hr /> <div>[[File:FT857_and_tuner_in_pack.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;This article details how I set up a HF/VHF/UHF manpack radio.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> ==Overview==<br /> ===Design goals===<br /> Radio RF Output:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Minimum of 20W, preferable to have optional 50W+ available if needed<br /> Radio Frequency coverage:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : HF, 6 meters, 2 meters, and 70cm<br /> Radio Modes:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : FM/SSB/CW/PSK<br /> Radio receive current:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : preferably less than 700mA<br /> Tuner:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : 10-500ohm minimum, preferable little to no idle current<br /> Battery:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : sufficient to handle a weekend without recharging<br /> Power:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Battery, AC, or solar&lt;br&gt;<br /> Antenna:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Vertical or dipole with optional voltage balun<br /> PC:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Small netbook capable of digital modes<br /> Size:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Everything fits within a pack suitable for airplane carry-on (21x14x10&quot;).<br /> All items:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Weight as minimal as possible !<br /> Cost:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : $2500 neighborhood<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Radio===<br /> Here is a quick rundown of the radios I considered:&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Military radios==== <br /> : I looked at the PRC-104, PRC-132, PRC-138, PRC-320, PRC-1099, PRC-2000, and AEG SE-6861.<br /> : All of them are good radios. Only problem is I want HF/6/2/440 so I'm stuck<br /> : with looking at amateur radios.<br /> <br /> ====Vertex VX-1210====<br /> : This is a commercial radio ($1400+, 7.1lb w/batt, rx: 500mA, tx: 3A/5W, 5A/20W)<br /> : Very tempting but is HF only. Has option for internal autotuner and can be<br /> : set up for VFO operation. Battery is 14.4v 4AH.<br /> <br /> ====Mobat Micom 3 Pathfinder====<br /> : This is a 25W commercial radio. Excessive cost for this project. Otherwise a great radio !<br /> <br /> ====Outback radios (QMAC, Barrett, Codan)====<br /> : QMAC HF90 excessive cost &amp; no longer made, Barrett 940 too heavy (18.5lbs w/tuner battery)<br /> : Barrett 2040, Codan 2110 excessive cost.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-817ND====<br /> : Portable amateur radio ($600, 2.6lb, 8-16v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 2A/5W)<br /> : Tempting, and would pair nicely with LDG Z-817 tuner.<br /> : Only problem is I want 20W+. This could be accomplished with a Tokyo High Power HL-45B<br /> : amp ($400, 3.4 lbs, 8.5A/45W, 160-6m) + LDG Z-817H tuner.<br /> : This is a viable combination and has the benefit of low RX current.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC703+====<br /> : Amateur radio (discontinued, 4.4lb, 9-15.8v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 3A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Nice radio, big and easily readable display, built in autotuner. Wish it did 2m/440<br /> : like its bigger brother (IC-706).<br /> <br /> ====Elecraft KX3====<br /> : Portable amateur radio (new to market, 1.5lb, 8-14v(?), rx: 150-???mA, tx: ?A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Great display and control layout located on what would normally be considered the &quot;top&quot;<br /> : of the radio which gives ample room compared to other radios. Built in autotuner. CW paddles<br /> : right on front of the radio. I would have liked to see a little more than 10W however its<br /> : certainly a reasonable and usable amount of power (and better than 5W). Has option for <br /> : an external KXPA100 100W amp and KXAT100 tuner. Overall it is an exciting product and I <br /> : probably would have bought one if I wasn't looking to have 2m/440 in the same radio.<br /> : I don't know if it supports CTCSS for 10m FM repeaters and CTCSS/DCS for 6m FM repeaters.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC706MK2G====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 5.5lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1800-2000mA, tx: 20A/100W)<br /> : RX current way too high, VHF frontend easily overloads. Nice display as with the IC703<br /> : above. The RX current is a deal breaker for battery ops. <br /> <br /> ====Icom IC7000====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($1200, 5.1lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1300-1600mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : Nice radio. RX current better than IC706 but still a little on the high side for battery ops.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-897D====<br /> : Mobile/portable amateur radio ($900, 8.6lb, 11.7-15.9v, rx: 600-1000mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : HF/50 MHz:5 watts = 4.0-4.7 amps 10 watts = 5.3-6.4 amps 25 watts = 7.3-9.2 amps 50 watts = 10.6-12.9 amps<br /> : 144 MHz: 5 watts = 3.4 amps 10 watts = 4.2 amps 25 watts = 6.3 amps 50 watts = 9.4 amps<br /> : 420 MHz: 5 watts = 4.2 amps 10 watts = 5.6 amps 20 watts = 8.7 amps<br /> :<br /> : Designed for field ops and has room for internal batteries (13.2v, 9AH) however the batteries<br /> : add an additional 6.5lbs to a radio which is already heavy at 8.6lbs. One option is to run your<br /> : own external battery which gives you room to install an internal 120V power supply. Overall<br /> : I really like this radio but its ruggedness will cost you in weight. You can get the FT-857D<br /> : (sacrificing the 897's rugged case and internal battery space) and save 4lbs on your back.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-857D====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 4.6lb, 12.4-15.2v,<br /> : rx: 600-1000mA (spec) 650-700mA (green/red backlight) 590mA (backlight off)<br /> : tx: 2A/5W 5A/15W 22A/100W)<br /> : Unlike the FT-897D above, this radio does not come with a TCXO. By the time you spend $100 on<br /> : the TCXO you end up with about the same radio as the FT-897D for the same price. Comparing the<br /> : FT-857D to the FT-897D has some pluses: 4lbs lighter, detachable head, and easier to mount mobile.<br /> : The minuses are we don't get the rugged case and battery space. I don't think either of these<br /> : minuses will matter as the radio and batteries will end up in a pack. One other thing to note is<br /> : both the 857 and 897 will automatically limit the radio to 20W when running on battery power<br /> : (by grounding the brown wire on the power connector).<br /> : Spec says voltage is 12.4-15.2, manual says 11.73-15.87.<br /> : The 857's signal will start sounding bad at about 11.75v.<br /> <br /> Given everything above it came down to deciding between the FT-857D and FT-897D.&lt;br&gt;<br /> I chose the FT-857D because its 4lbs lighter than the FT-897D. Every pound counts when backpacking !&lt;br&gt;<br /> The radio is best equipped with: tcxo-9, keypad mic, (2) W4RT/inrad.net filters.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Tuner===<br /> For honorable mention we have the long-discontinued Kenwood AT-130 which is a very small 80-10m(+WARC)&lt;br&gt;<br /> manual tuner (6 x 2.4 x 6.3 inches, 3.5 lbs.). For field ops I prefer a small autotuner. Yaesu makes the&lt;br&gt;<br /> FC-30 ($170, 17-150 ohms, 3.1 x 1.8 x 10.2 in, 2.2 lbs) however its 17-150 ohm tuning range is quite&lt;br&gt;<br /> narrow compared to the LDG product line.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the breakdown of the LDG products I looked at. All of them have latching relays.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> : $200 LDG YT-100 for 857/897 100w 4-800 ohm 7 x 7 x 2 1.5lbs<br /> : $200 LDG AT-897+ for 857/897 100w 6-800 ohm 11.5 x 3.25 x 1.5 2.0lbs<br /> : $160 Z100+ ? 125w 6-800 ohm 5.5 x 5.5 x 1.5 1 lb w/o batts<br /> : $170 Z11pro2 6-1000 ohm 7.7 x 5.0 x 1.5 1.5lb w/o batts<br /> &lt;br&gt; <br /> I ended up going with the Z11pro2 as it can autotune based on RF sense which keeps the CAT and ACC ports free. This is good because we&lt;br&gt;<br /> need both ports for our data interface. Another bonus of RF sense tuning is it makes the radio PC-ALE capable provided the antenna is&lt;br&gt;<br /> tunable on whatever ALE frequencies are to be used.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device on the left is the data/soundcard interface&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[File:FT857_and_tuner.jpg]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Battery===<br /> The following text describes how to build a battery pack. If you do not want to build this battery pack then you can buy one already built. For example you can look up &quot;ZIPPY Flightmax 8400mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack&quot; which currently sells for about $75. You will need to find a suitable charger for it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> I initially considered using 11 Accupower NiMH low-discharge &quot;D&quot; cells (10aH, 1.25v, 145g ea.)&lt;br&gt;<br /> This would give us 13.75v, 10aH at 3.5lb for about $110.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After more research I went with (8) 40160S LiFePO4 batteries (16AH/ea). This project really only needs 4 of these<br /> batteries however I opted to build two battery packs. 4 of these batteries in series gives you around 13 volts.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The 40160S 16AH battery is no longer being sold. The manufacturer has replaced it with the 40152S 15AH battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Paired with each battery pack is a circuit which protects from overcharge/overdischarge/overcurrent. It also keeps the batteries balanced<br /> while charging. After a long search for a suitable lightweight container I found the 4-battery pack fits perfectly into a &quot;Huggies&quot;<br /> baby wipe plastic box. I cut a small slot in the box for a short piece of velcro which holds the lid closed. The complete pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If you intend on taking your backpack radio on a commercial aircraft, keep in mind there are restrictions on high capacity lithium ion batteries. If you believe this will be a problem you can build a pack from 11 NiMH D cells or use a pre-made NiMH RC pack. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Notice the top door works great for the powerpole.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is a view of the internals. The protection circuit board is on the top.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The AC adapter/charger===<br /> I wanted enough beef for the radio to do 20W off the adapter. I ended up getting IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter<br /> for about $14 off ebay. It is relatively small and weighs 0.4 lb. I run it through a bridge rectifier which reduces the voltage to 14.8V which is suitable for operating the radio and charging the battery pack. Of course running DC through a bridge rectifier only uses two of the four diodes however it was an inexpensive solution which is much easier than standalone diodes to mount to the cable/fuse.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I found that the battery pack can draw up to 8A during charging so I used a 10A fuse on the power supply. Yes, I know the power supply is only rated at 7.5A and putting a 10A fuse on it is not good practice. So far it hasn't been a problem. During charging the bridge rectifier can get quite hot so make sure it is on a non-flammable surface. The obvious solution to all this would be a series current limiting resistor which is something I'll look into when I get the time.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> For now I am charging the battery pack with a small smart charger (Noco Genius G3500) which is set for a standard 12V battery at a 3.5A charge rate. It just so happens that its output voltage on this setting is just right for charging the LiFePO4 battery. The Noco Genius is a handy little charger as it is also good for charging and topping off car batteries, AGM batteries, 12V 7AH brick batteries, etc. and it will float the batteries without overcharging them. Another nice thing about this charger is its small enough to fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ac_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Solar Panel===<br /> PowerFilm F15-1200 20W (10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6&quot; 1 lb )&lt;br&gt;<br /> Nice compact and light panel but a little pricey at $10/watt. I would have gone with their 30W panel but it was even more overpriced.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the solar panel<br /> [[File:W7ki_solar_panel.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Computer===<br /> EEEPC 1000h. Small battery-efficient netbook with 10&quot; screen. Used it because I had it on hand. Any netbook would probably do ok so<br /> long as it has mic/headphone jacks. One bonus of this particular computer is you can feed it 12VDC direct.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the computer<br /> [[File:W7ki_netbook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Data Interface===<br /> Homemade. Nothing fancy, just some audio isolation transformers, a level converter, and a PTT transistor.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The data interface and the tuner are attached to the mobile mounting bracket with velcro. Note how the mobile bracket is angled such that the front of the tuner is slightly elevated. This was done to give some clearance to the radio speaker and also helps to direct the audio out of the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_data_interface1.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Antenna===<br /> I looked at a variety of compact antennas (Outbacker Joey, Outbacker Stealth Plus, ATX-W38 walkabout, ATX-DHP, and a handful<br /> of others). It was difficult to find anything that would collapse to under 18 inches (requirement for the pack I'm using). It was probably just as well<br /> since many &quot;portable&quot; antennas are helical which I personally despise.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My original intent was to buy a &quot;Buddi&quot; product and evaluate how it worked in a vertical configuration. The only issue was whether their 80 meter coil would fit in the pack. I emailed them multiple times asking the dimensions of the coil but unfortunately all of my emails were ignored. This probably speaks volumes as to how they handle issues after a sale so I thought it best not to do business with them until their customer communication improves.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Of all the pre-made antennas I found The SuperAntenna MP1B SuperStick would likely be the best off the shelf solution as it collapses to 12 inches and weighs under 2 pounds. When I first wrote this article their company had no products available which I believe was due to a transition in ownership. Their products are now available again and I plan on trying one out. I would buy the MP1B antenna, TM1 mount, and optionally MC60 coil for 60 meters and MC80 coil for 80 meters. A properly adjusted SuperAntenna requires no tuner however you need to use a correct length ground radial. This is my recommendation if you do not want to build an antenna. The text past this point describes how to build an antenna/coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I ended up using a military AT271-A/PRC antenna. It is a 7 section antenna with a 3/8-24 base that extends to 113.5 inches and collapses to 17 inches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> It has an optional 8 inch spring (AB-129/PR) which I am not currently using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:At271a.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As an alternative I found an 8.5' collapsible aluminum pole made for measuring snowpacks and after some tinkering it worked like a charm.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pole_antenna.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Either of these antennas is very usable on HF when paired with a couple of 18&quot; aluminum extender rods and a large tapped coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_big_coil.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> Obviously running a huge coil with a short antenna is about as worthless as a short helical so its important to remember to use as much whip or longwire as you can if you<br /> are less than 1/4 wave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a horizontal option I built a tapped voltage balun which attaches to a vertical extension arm and connects to two spools of wire.<br /> [[File:W7ki_horiz_setup.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;The wire spools can also be used as a counterpoise for vertical configurations.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the bottom is a carbon fiber camera monopod which we use as a vertical extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the top is a carpal tunnel wrist strap which is used for attaching the monopod extension arm to the pack aluminum extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is wound on Coleman camping clothesline spools.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Another HF antenna option is to build the St. Louis Vertical: http://www.amqrp.org/projects/stluisvert/STLV%20Project.html&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For VHF/UHF I have a 17&quot; dual-band antenna. For VHF only you can also put one of the 18&quot; aluminum rods onto the 1&quot; antenna mount.&lt;br&gt;<br /> 6 meters can be done with the 17&quot; antenna on top of both 18&quot; rods.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Pack===<br /> I looked at dozens of packs before settling on the Jansport Driver 8. Most other packs were either oversized and/or too heavy.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My reasoning for a 21x14x10&quot; size limit is so you can carry this on a commercial airplane if you are traveling. You certainly wouldn't want<br /> to check this as luggage as it would probably get destroyed by handling or stolen.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Two main things I liked about the Driver 8 are the wheels and the telescoping arm. The telescoping arm is wonderful because it is very sturdy<br /> aluminum which allows you to securely attach an antenna to it. This is great for manpack operations if you want the antenna up while you are<br /> walking around with the pack on your back. It also works great for fixed operations as the pack itself can be used as an antenna base.<br /> The wheels not only give your back a break where smooth surfaces are available, they also give you the ability to easily lay down the pack when assembling a long antenna. Its like having a mini fold over tower.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The wheels are inline skate wheels and have a very low ground clearance. It will roll fine inside buildings or on a paved sidewalk. The wheels will not work on a trail. This is unfortunate as it is much easier to pull 35 lbs on wheels than to heft it on your back. One possible solution to this is to run a 1/2 inch rod (or thread stock?) along the bottom of the pack and install a pair of 10&quot; x 1.75 lightweight plastic wheels. I would use Martin Wheel part number 110 wheels because they come with metal ball bearings.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:w7ki_pack_radio.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Construction and Setup==<br /> A complete materials and sources list is at the end of this article.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Extension Rods and Antenna===<br /> To make the aluminum extension rods you need a 3 foot piece of aluminum rod. Cut the rod into 3 pieces, 2 of them will be 17 inches long and the third piece will be the remaining 2 inches.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take a 21/64 inch drill bit and drill about 1.5 inches into both ends of the 17 inch rods. Be careful to drill straight. Once this is done tap threads into both ends with a 3/8-24 tap. Tapping threads into aluminum generates a tremendous amount of head so remember to tap slowly and use an oil lubricant. Right after tapping these rods I bumped one of them with my arm and got a very nasty burn.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the tapping is done thread a 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud into both ends of the rods. Then, for each rod, put a 3/8-24 jam nut over the stud on one end and put a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut over the stud on the other end. When you are done it should look like the picture below.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> This section deals with constructing the antenna if you chose not to buy an AT-271 antenna:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now grab the remaining 2 inch piece of aluminum rod. Drill one end 1 inch deep with a size F (.2443 inch) bit then drill the other end 1 inch deep with the 21/64 inch drill bit you used for the other rods. Tap 5/16-18 threads into the size F end and 3/8-24 threads into the 21/64 end.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take the aluminum antenna, remove the lanyard string, push in the lower release spring button and shove it up the tube a couple inches, and tap the bottom for 5/16-18 threads. The two photos below show the start and finish of tapping the threads. I seriously do not recommend using vise-grips as shown in the photos. The antenna deforms very easily. It would be much better to lightly use a vise which can distribute the grip better with much less crush force. Again, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CRUSH OR DEFORM THE TUBE. I darn near destroyed the prototype using vise-grips.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Next we take a 1.5 inch 5/16-18 stud and thread half of it into the antenna. This is generally difficult to do so I recommend tightening two 5/16-18 nuts against each other onto the stud and use the outer nut with a wrench. Once the stud is threaded into the antenna you can thread the 2 inch aluminum rod onto the stud, then thread a 3/8-24 stud into the other end of the rod. Put a 3/8-24 jam nut onto the exposed threads. What you have done here is built a 5/16-18 to 3/8-24 thread adapter. The photo below shows what the finished product should look like.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rod_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The next step is to modify the antenna to make it conductive. The anodized surfaces do not conduct electricity so you need to take some sandpaper and sand out the inside of the bottom of each rod (about 3/4 inch should do). Another issue is the tapered inserts which are crimped into the top of the rods. These don't conduct either so you need to lightly bond them with an arc weld. This should be done with a MIG or TIG welder. Remember to sand the surfaces first, including the entire tapered section. I cheesed mine by using two truck batteries, a pair of jumper cables, and some real thin aluminum wire. Some people refer to this as hillbilly arc welding. Please don't do this unless you know the risks, know what you are doing, and you are using appropriate eye protection. Verify the end to end continuity of the antenna with an ohmmeter when you are done. Here is what mine looked like when it was done.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_hillbilly_weld.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The final step is to flatten out the pointed tip of the antenna rod. You can do this with a grinder or file.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Coil===<br /> The coil is made from a 7 3/4 inch piece of 4 inch diameter drainpipe with a drainpipe cap on each end. To make room for more coil turns we cut 1 3/8 inch off the end of the drainpipe cap. You need to cut two end caps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Locate the center of each cap, tap the center with a center punch or nail, drill a 1/8&quot; pilot hole, then drill in again with a 3/8&quot; bit.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now we take a piece of 1/4 inch schedule 80 pvc pipe and drill/tap it for 3/8-24 threads the same way you did the aluminum rods (except please don't use lubricating oil). Its important to use schedule 80 pipe as it has the correct inside diameter for tapping threads. The pipe should be about 7 1/2 inches long and later you might have to make some slight length adjustments for fit. Once your threads are tapped you can thread a 1.5 inch 3/8-24 stud into each end then put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer over the end (see photo below). Put one end into an end cap, put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer on the outside of the end cap, stack one 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal on top of the washer, and secure it with a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut stacked on top of the ring terminal.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Put the other end cap on. On the outside stack a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer, a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal, and a 3/8-24 jam nut.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to cover up any holes in the drainpipe with a square of duct tape.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To make the coil, glue 4 pieces of .065 Nylon Edge Trim as shown in the photo (credit to Phil AD5X for finding this edge trim). When cutting them to length, remember to offset each one to correctly accommodate a spirally-wound coil. Once this is done, drill a .065&quot; diagonal hole from the edge of the cap through the top of each cap (see photo), thread the wire through the hole and wind the coil with .064&quot; (14AWG) tin coated copper wire. Remember to keep tension on the coil or else it will wind loosely. The wire is stiff and doesn't come off the coil perfectly so there will be some manual coil alignment/straightening to do after the coil is wound. Once the coil is wound, put the ends thorough the 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminals, then cut &amp; solder. Be careful of heat damage to the plastic while soldering. Its usually best to loosen the end nuts prior to soldering as it will conduct less heat away from the ring terminals.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_end.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The coil tap is an EZ-Hook XM attached to a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal with an 11 inch piece of 22-gauge 7-strand insulated hookup wire. Attach the ring terminal above the coil ring terminal as shown in the photo.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_tap.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The EZ-Hook XM works great for 17AWG wire however its a little small for our 14AWG coil. The hook can be slightly adjusted with needlenose pliers to fit the 14AWG wire. The picture below shows the modified hook profile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ezhook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As built, the coil specs out like this: 7&quot; length, 4.25&quot; dia, 50 turns, 14ga .063 (spaced) = 129uH&lt;br&gt;<br /> Its a little overkill on the size &amp; inductance but it gives a lot of flexibility with short antennas.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Balun===<br /> The balun is based on a design by WB6ZQZ. His design appears to be a bifilar current balun in series with a quadrifilar voltage balun. We are only interested in the quadrifilar transformer because we will be using an external ferrite choke on the feedline (which allows us to use the choke for antenna configurations that don't use the voltage balun). Here is a link to instructions on how to wind the quadrifilar transformer:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> http://www.antennalaunchers.com/trb/photos.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Use 16ga enameled wire and a F-125-K toroid. Once the transformer is wound you can mount it on a small piece of plastic with holes drilled for the wires. Attach the wires to each other as per his schematic diagram and PC board photos.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mount the completed toroid into a 3x2x1 inch Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box. Install an SO-239 connector into the bottom of the box. For terminals I used (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts/nuts/wingnuts which are available at a home-improvement store. Label the terminals for Common, 50, 25, and 12 ohms. Attach a short piece of velcro to the back side which allows for mounting.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Antenna Mount &amp; Wire Spools===<br /> The antenna mount uses 1/4-20 hardware. I recommend replacing two of the nuts with wingnuts. Cut an 11 foot piece of Belden 8219 RG58A/U and loop it twice through two Laird LFB187102 ferrites as shown in the photo below. The coax fits tightly and we do not want to stretch it while pulling it through the ferrites so use a non-petroleum lubricant (I used cooking spray). Once this is done you can put UG-175/U reducers on the cable and solder a PL259 connector on each end.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_choke.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is spooled on a (2) Coleman 827E140T colthesline reels (thanks to Richard WA6KYR for finding these). Each Coleman reel comes with 21 feet of nylon cord. Pull all the cord out and cut off 13 feet so there is 8 feet remaining on the spool. Attach 59 1/2 feet of 22AWG insulated hookup wire to the end of the nylon cord. You can do this by stripping the end of the wire and pushing it through the middle of the nylon cord about 1/2 inch from the end, then secure the end of the nylon cord by lightly melting it with a lighter or soldering iron. Now you can reel in the wire. If it gets stuck you can open the reel with a 1/3 turn of the enclosure shell. Attach a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal to the end of the wire.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you are wondering why we use 59 1/2 feet it is because its the only length available that is reasonably close for loading at 75-80m and is not an even 1/2-wavelength multiple of any amateur band from 6m-40m (in fact we can go +/- 3 feet before bumping into one of these multiples. You should be able to roll this out to full length and tune any amateur band from 80m-6m. It also makes a good antenna to use with ALE and our RF-sensing tuner.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Battery===<br /> Each battery pack is made of (4) 40160S LiFePO4 cells (3.2V 16Ah) with a battery management circuit put into a Huggies wipe box.<br /> The battery management circuit sits on top of a plastic board which is an Akro-Mils 40150 (3.3 x 7.7 x 0.1 inch). Mount the batteries in the plastic holders, wire them in series with the bus bars, mount the battery management circuit, then wire it in. I recommend using a 30 amp fuse as pictured. Once this is done attach a 30A (12-14AWG) Powerpole connector with 12-gauge wire. The battery management circuit will charge the battery up to 14.2v before it automatically cuts off. The charger should be at least 14.6v.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each 40160S cell is rated at 3.65V (Max Charge), 3.2V (Nominal), and 2.0V (Discharge cut off).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Max charge current is 5C (80A) and max discharge current is 10C (160A).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cell life is rated at 2000 charge/discharge cycles under normal use.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete battery pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Data Interface===<br /> The data interface consists of audio isolation transformers, an RS232 level converter, and a PTT transistor. The audio circuit is per the &quot;KK7UQ Interface Model II&quot; circuit although I chose not to use the potentiometers and solid state relay in the original design. The original design and documentation can be found here:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://kk7uq.com/html/download/Manual2E.pdf<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The RS232 level converter is per a circuit attributed to OE1RIB.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I decided not to go with the Yaseu CT62 cable because I wanted the ability to use the DTR line for PTT (which is much cleaner for automated CW than keying with serial commands). Don't get me wrong here, I prefer a key, however flexibility was one of the design goals. I modified the level converter circuit to take power from the radio rather than trying to rob it from DTR/CTS with diodes. There is also a DPDT toggle switch on the back of the data interface which is an &quot;OFF&quot; switch (cuts the power from the radio and cuts the PTT line). I looked at off-the-shelf interfaces and most of them were either too big or required power for the audio circuitry.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Use a USB-serial converter if your computer doesn't have a serial port. I recommend using converters with the FTDI chipset for best performance and OS compatibility (I used USBG-RS232-F12 from usbgear.com).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the actual circuit I used to build the data interface:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to leave clearance for the jacks and switches when laying out the components on the PC board.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Velcro attachment<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Mounted to radio<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To connect the interface box to the radio I used a short piece of cat5 network cable wired like this&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT RD W-Br&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT TD W-G&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT + Br-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT GND G-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Data Out12 O-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data In W-Bl&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data PTT W-O&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data GND Bl-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The mini-din connectors go in very tight so beware of non-functioning or partial connections when you do this. Once you get them seated properly they work great and stay in place. Make sure to notch the back of the connector sleeves so the cables can exit at 90 degrees. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In the above photo you will also notice a connector/adapter contraption covered with electrical tape. These UHF right-angle adapters were used because the radio rests on its back side in the pack and we don't want the weight of the radio sitting on a PL259 connector and pinching the coax. All UHF right-angle adapters are not created equal. Most of them are garbage and use a small internal spring to connect the center conductor. The correct part to use is Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U. The adapter connecting the radio to the tuner is two of the Amphenol right-angle adapters connected with a short piece of LMR-600 with the center conductor diameter ground down from 0.176&quot; to 0.157&quot;. The length of the LMR600 and the mounting position of the tuner are critical because you don't want to obstruct the ports on the rear of the radio. As you can see in the photo below, this arrangement makes the back of the radio very compact which helps it fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_back.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Power Wiring===<br /> On the power supply you can add a third powerpole connector which is jumped to ground. When the third connector is also done on the radio side (connected to the radio brown wire) it forces the radio to 20W when plugged into the supply. This is good because our power supply is only rated for 7.5 amps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The power cable is 24 inches of 12-gauge red/black zipcord with a third wire for sensing low-power mode. Additionally it has a 16 inch length of zipcord for the tuner with a 2.5x5.5mm right-angle connector. As with the OEM cable, the 12-gauge cable splits off into two 14-gauge cables at the connector. You will notice that there are no fuses on this cable. I didn't bother because all my power sources for the pack are fused. In hindsight it would be prudent to put 30A fuses on both the positive and negative wires.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Third Powerpole connector for low power sense.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Connector end detail<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Monopod===<br /> The monopod is used to elevate the feedpoint of the dipole or a short vertical antenna. It is carbon fiber, weighs only 19oz, and extends to 68&quot;.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The monopod needs to be shortened to fit into the pack. Going around the perimeter of the small end rod, cut off the bottom half of the top rubber cap. This will allow the rod to collapse about an additional 1/2 inch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The bottom cap can be removed by pushing in the two roll pins with a small center punch. Then, with the rod fully collapsed, you will see there is about 13/16 inch you can saw off the big end without hitting the smaller rods that collapse inside of it. The photo below shows it after the cut.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Radio setup===<br /> Here is how I set mine up&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 7.000mhz<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to on.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 19&quot; (CAT Rate). Set it to 9600.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 29&quot; (CW Sidetone). Set it to 5.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 38&quot; (Dig Mode). Set it to PSK31-U.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 59&quot; (Mic Sel). Set it to RMT if you are using the MH-59A8J mic.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 86&quot; (TX IF Filter). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 2.3<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 50.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 144.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 20.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 446.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 10.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Enable 2.3kc filter for TX:<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push FUNC, rotate select to N, press 2.3 (above B key)<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ==Usage==<br /> The most basic setup is pulling the aluminum pack handle up one notch and attaching the mount/antenna. This can be used for a quick base setup or walking around with the pack on your back. The photo below shows the mount and 2m/70cm whip installed. If you want a somewhat useful counterpoise for 6m/2m/70cm without attaching the counterpoise wire, simply invert the feedline such that the chokes are by the radio instead of by the antenna. This way you can use the coax itself for a counterpoise. Its certainly not the best way to do it but it will work.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each aluminum rod is 18&quot; and you can use one of them by itself for a 2m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rods2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you use both rods with the 2m/70cm whip on top you will have a 6m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> You can use the monopod to elevate the a 6m/2m/70cm antenna. We use the carpal tunnel wrist strap to attach the monopod to the packs aluminum handle. The next photo looks like the leaning tower of Pisa because my first prototype was done with a medium-sized wrist strap. I have since moved to a small-sized strap which makes it stand much straighter. The monopod is good for 6m/2m/70cm verticals and for holding the feedpoint of a dipole. Do not use the monopod with the 8-foot antenna rod and/or the large loading coil as it gets too topheavy to remain stable. The following photo shows the ground radials installed and the choke ferrite near the antenna feedpoint. For a simpler setup you can skip the ground radials and invert the feedline (so the choke ferrites are near the radio) which will make the feedline act as a counterpoise. Yes I know this was said earlier in the article but its worth repeating.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_8.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Detail of antenna mount attached to the monopod pole<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_9.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The collapsible antenna by itself will work as a quarter-wave on 10m (pictured below) and should also tune up ok on 12m. It will work as a quarter-wave on 15m if you add the two aluminum extension rods.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Attaching the coil (tapped on the lowest turn) to the antenna base with the two aluminum rods above it will tune down to 80m. This configuration will have near zero efficiency however it will allow short-range communication on 75/80m while walking around with the pack on your back.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The best vertical configuration for 80m thru 17m is attaching the two rods to the base, putting the coil on top of the rods, then putting the collapsible aluminum antenna rod on top. It is best to tilt the pack over on its wheels and assemble the antenna on the ground.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once its assembled, tilt it up by lifting the aluminum arm on the pack. The weight of the batteries do a good job of keeping the antenna in place.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you want to try 160 meters you can remove the 8 foot whip and connect one of the 59-foot wire spools to the top of the coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a dipole configuration you can strap the balun to the top of the monopod and connect our spools of wire to it. Dipoles work best when they are at least 1/4 wave above the ground. Our feedpoint impedance will typically be much less than 50 ohms because in most cases we will be less than 1/4 wave off the ground. This will be especially noticeable on 40m/80m. Attach one wire to the &quot;C&quot; (common) balun terminal and attach the other wire to either the 12, 25, or 50 ohm terminal depending on which one works best. The wire spools use 3/8 ring terminals so we can optionally connect them directly to the vertical antenna mount if you want to feed a dipole directly without the balun.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One other important thing to note about dipoles is its best to keep the ends up off the ground. There is 8 feet of nylon rope at the end of the spools which can help in getting your wire somewhere it can be secured. In my pack I also keep short plastic tent stakes and short bungee cords which can help in some situations.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_10.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> There are a few other odds &amp; ends I keep in the pack. The PL-259 center to ring terminal adapter is for using the voltage balun with the vertical antenna. The Powerpole &quot;Y&quot; cable is for running the AC adapter or solar charger while using the radio. The short 3/8-24 bolt is for attaching a dipole wire directly to the antenna mount or to the top of the coil. There are also two 8-foot stereo cables for the data adapter and a 10-foot serial cable (not pictured). (I chose 8-10' cables to keep the computer RF a little ways away from the radio/antenna). At the bottom is the usb/serial adapter and on the bottom right are short velcro cable ties for attaching the feedline to the monopole and/or aluminum pack handle.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_misc.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is how it all fits into the pack<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_11.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete pack with both batteries and the computer weighs 35 lbs.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The weight can be substantially reduced by removing the spare battery, AC adapter, computer (if you don't need it), and any antenna parts you don't plan on using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In case you are wondering where the CW key/paddles are, I'm still working on finding a solution that works well with this portable setup.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Two that have been recommended are the mini paddle from milestone technologies and the traveler light from begali.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ==Parts &amp; Prices==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> $799 FT857D w/YSK857<br /> $95 TCXO-9<br /> $82 MH-59A8J DTMF mic (also needed for direct freq entry)<br /> <br /> $120 W4RT2.3khz ssb filter<br /> $169 Z-11pro2<br /> <br /> $14 IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter (ebay)<br /> $2 bridge rectifier KBPC5010 (ebay)<br /> <br /> $144 (8) 16ah 40160s lifepo4 $24/ea (bmsbattery.com or manzanitamicro.com)<br /> $3 (8) 40160S battery holders 0.40/ea<br /> $4 (8) 40160S bus bar connectors 0.50/ea<br /> $80 battery shipping<br /> <br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> <br /> $97 (2) 30A Battery Management PCB http://www.batteryspace.com/pcbprotectioncircuitmodulefor4cells128vlifepo4batterypackat30alimited.aspx<br /> <br /> $11 USB to serial converter http://www.usbgear.com/computer_cable_details.cfm?sku=USBG-RS232-F12&amp;cats=199&amp;catid=482%2C199%2C601%2C461<br /> <br /> $8 3/8X24 Thread Mirror Mount: Wilson 901104<br /> $5 (20') Belden 8219 (RG58A/U) <br /> $3 (4) Amphenol 83-185-RFX (UG-175 reducer)<br /> $20 (4) Amphenol 83-822 (PL259)<br /> $10 shipping (theantennafarm.com)<br /> <br /> $79 Jansport Driver 8 TN89-008 UPC 757969203361 Wheeled Backpack (buy.com)<br /> <br /> $6 dual-band (2/440) whip with 3/8x24 mount (hamstick EDBW-1, Opek DB-1, or Workman DB-1) <br /> $4 (2) CONXPARTSA Kenwood KW2000 (Parts A)<br /> $3 (6 feet) Red &amp; Black DC wire 12 GA<br /> $9 shipping (k1cra.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (3') LMR-600 (showmecables.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 nuts (7/16&quot; head)<br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts<br /> $2 (8) 1/4&quot;-20 wingnuts<br /> $9 (10') 4&quot; drainpipe (we need one 7 3/4&quot; piece)<br /> $4 (2) 4&quot; drainpipe cap (home depot)<br /> <br /> $20 (5) littelfuse FHA30 12AWG inline fuse holder<br /> $3 (1) 5-pack of ATO 7.5 fuse (drillspot.com)<br /> <br /> $3 4' 14 gauge cable (for short part of radio power connector) (.62/ft)<br /> $1 4' 18 gauge cable (for battery sense +/- to pcb, low power wire on power cable) (.31/ft)<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (22-18) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $4 (1) 1/4&quot; (16-14) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (12-10) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $10 shipping (parts-express.com)<br /> <br /> (1) DB9F mouser 156-1309 0.80<br /> (4) BC546A mouser 512-BC546A 0.10<br /> (2) 5.6k 1/4w mouser 588-OD562JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (3) 10k 1/4w mouser 588-OD103JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (1) 3.5mm 3-pin plug (cw) (2 wires used) mouser 568-NYS231BG 1.69 (for cw jack)<br /> (1) 8-pin mini-din (cat) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2608 1.49<br /> (1) 6-pin mini-din (data) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2606 1.36<br /> (2) 600ohm 1:1 transformer mouser 42TL016-RC 1.66<br /> (2) 51 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD510JE 0.42<br /> (1) 1uf cap mouser 5989-100V1.0-F 0.71<br /> (1) .0047uf cap mouser 140-50P5-472K-RC 50v ceramic disc 0.12<br /> (1) 100 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD101JE 0.42 carbon comp 5%<br /> (1) 1k 1/4w mouser 588-OD102JE 0.42<br /> (1) board mouser 854-PR1593K $4.10 2.6 x 2.6<br /> (1) box mouser 546-1593KBK $2.88 (box is 2.6 x 2.6 x 1.1)<br /> (2) 2.2k resistor 1/2w carbon comp 5% mouser 588-OF222JE (1/4w mouser 588-OD222JE 0.42 not avail)<br /> (4) PL259 right angle Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U Mouser 523-83-1AP $14.70/ea<br /> (1) 2.5x5.5mm right angle plug (24AWG) power plug for tuner mouser 171-3216-EX $1.04/ea<br /> (2) ferrites - mouser 875-LFB187102-000 3.03/ea 3/4&quot; OD .400&quot; ID 1.125&quot; long (3 turns RG58 = 1000 ohm impedance @ 1-5mhz)<br /> (2) mouser 526-WH22-00-100 100' 22awg copper 7-strand hookup wire black nteinc.com $19 (use p/n 03-100 for orange) insulation OD 0.060&quot;<br /> (2) 3.5mm stereo jacks 502-35RAPC3BV4 2.73<br /> $112 total<br /> $12 shipping (mouser.com)<br /> <br /> $8 (1) 14-pack 3/8 ring terminal 16-14AWG (JT&amp;T 2011H - amazon.com)<br /> $18 (2) 8ft 3.5mm stereo cables (mediabridge - amazon.com)<br /> $3 21/64 (.3281&quot;) drill bit for 3/8-24 threads (amazon.com)<br /> $28 3' Aluminum 6061-T6 Seamless Round Tubing, WW-T 700/6, 1/2&quot; OD, 1/4&quot; ID, 1/8&quot; Wall, 36&quot; Length (amazon.com)<br /> $65 Opteka CFM300 68&quot; 5 Section 8x Carbon Fiber Monopod (amazon.com)<br /> $209 (1) PowerFilm F15-1200 20W solar panel 10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6 1 lb (amazon.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (4) EZ-Hook XM (digi-key 461-1004-ND)<br /> <br /> $2 Akro-Mils plastic dividers (Akro-Mils 40150 wasserstrom.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (8) 3/8-24 Jam Nuts 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (2) 3/8-24 Hex Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $10 (5) 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (10) 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer 316 Stainless Steel<br /> $7 shipping (fastener-warehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $7 (5') 1/4&quot; schedule 80 PVC pipe (usplastic.com)<br /> <br /> $14 (2) coleman 827E140T colthesline reel (coleman.com)<br /> <br /> $58 AT-271A/PRC antenna (ebay) OR $58 Voile Tourlight Avalanche Probe (8 foot) (voile-usa.com)<br /> <br /> $2 (2) 6&quot; tent stakes (rei.com)<br /> $2 (1) 4-pack of 10&quot; bungee cords (rei.com)<br /> $8 tax/shipping (rei.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) F-125-K Toroid Core 1.25&quot; 250-300 permeability low loss ferrite 1-30 mhz (theaudioguru.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (1) 1/4 lb Wire, 16ga (0.05&quot;) enameled (we need 4 feet for toroid) (allspectrum.com or jameco.com)<br /> <br /> $20 (1) 79-87283 DonJoy COMFORTFORM WRIST support-Small right (expressorthopedics.com - warning, it takes them a month to ship it)<br /> <br /> $8 Cables To Go 52030 - 6ft DB9 M/F All Lines Extension Cable Black (nextwarehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) 85085K8 25-pack nylon edge trim .065 gap width 3/16 opening, 15/64 height, 12 3/4 long<br /> $23 (1) 8871K71 80' (1 lb) spool .064&quot; (14ga) tin coated copper wire (spool says Arcor 14AWG)<br /> $2 (1) 91187A202 1.5&quot; 5/16-18 RHT stainless stud (or you can order a 10-pack for $4.55 with part number 95412A587)<br /> $10 (2) 95412A659 5-pack of 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud<br /> $9 tax/shipping (mcmaster.com)<br /> <br /> ==========<br /> $2518 approximate cost<br /> <br /> <br /> $? (1) stickyback velcro (attach tuner to radio mount)<br /> <br /> $? (1) velcro wire ties (attach coax to antenna mast)<br /> <br /> $? (1) 3/8-24 tap<br /> $? (1) 5/16-18 tap<br /> $? (1) Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box (for balun) 3x2x1&quot;<br /> <br /> $? (4) 30A (12-14AWG) red/black powerpole connector (1 for radio, 2 for batteries, 1 for AC/DC power supply)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> ==More Information==<br /> Here are some websites with great ideas for building backpack radios:<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://ec1cw.blogspot.com/2012/12/my-ft-857d-manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/321107979094<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_22/665730_Build_your_own_HF_manpack.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://hfpack.com/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://pinztrek.com/radio/hfpack/<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://www.dbbear.com/k0emt/projant/hfpack/</div> Sun, 08 Dec 2013 17:29:58 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:W7KI_Manpack_Radio http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/W7KI_Manpack_Radio <p>Rich:&#32;/* Power Wiring */</p> <hr /> <div>[[File:FT857_and_tuner_in_pack.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;This article details how I set up a HF/VHF/UHF manpack radio.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> ==Overview==<br /> ===Design goals===<br /> Radio RF Output:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Minimum of 20W, preferable to have optional 50W+ available if needed<br /> Radio Frequency coverage:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : HF, 6 meters, 2 meters, and 70cm<br /> Radio Modes:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : FM/SSB/CW/PSK<br /> Radio receive current:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : preferably less than 700mA<br /> Tuner:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : 10-500ohm minimum, preferable little to no idle current<br /> Battery:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : sufficient to handle a weekend without recharging<br /> Power:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Battery, AC, or solar&lt;br&gt;<br /> Antenna:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Vertical or dipole with optional voltage balun<br /> PC:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Small netbook capable of digital modes<br /> Size:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Everything fits within a pack suitable for airplane carry-on (21x14x10&quot;).<br /> All items:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Weight as minimal as possible !<br /> Cost:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : $2500 neighborhood<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Radio===<br /> Here is a quick rundown of the radios I considered:&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Military radios==== <br /> : I looked at the PRC-104, PRC-132, PRC-138, PRC-320, PRC-1099, PRC-2000, and AEG SE-6861.<br /> : All of them are good radios. Only problem is I want HF/6/2/440 so I'm stuck<br /> : with looking at amateur radios.<br /> <br /> ====Vertex VX-1210====<br /> : This is a commercial radio ($1400+, 7.1lb w/batt, rx: 500mA, tx: 3A/5W, 5A/20W)<br /> : Very tempting but is HF only. Has option for internal autotuner and can be<br /> : set up for VFO operation. Battery is 14.4v 4AH.<br /> <br /> ====Mobat Micom 3 Pathfinder====<br /> : This is a 25W commercial radio. Excessive cost for this project. Otherwise a great radio !<br /> <br /> ====Outback radios (QMAC, Barrett, Codan)====<br /> : QMAC HF90 excessive cost &amp; no longer made, Barrett 940 too heavy (18.5lbs w/tuner battery)<br /> : Barrett 2040, Codan 2110 excessive cost.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-817ND====<br /> : Portable amateur radio ($600, 2.6lb, 8-16v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 2A/5W)<br /> : Tempting, and would pair nicely with LDG Z-817 tuner.<br /> : Only problem is I want 20W+. This could be accomplished with a Tokyo High Power HL-45B<br /> : amp ($400, 3.4 lbs, 8.5A/45W, 160-6m) + LDG Z-817H tuner.<br /> : This is a viable combination and has the benefit of low RX current.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC703+====<br /> : Amateur radio (discontinued, 4.4lb, 9-15.8v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 3A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Nice radio, big and easily readable display, built in autotuner. Wish it did 2m/440<br /> : like its bigger brother (IC-706).<br /> <br /> ====Elecraft KX3====<br /> : Portable amateur radio (new to market, 1.5lb, 8-14v(?), rx: 150-???mA, tx: ?A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Great display and control layout located on what would normally be considered the &quot;top&quot;<br /> : of the radio which gives ample room compared to other radios. Built in autotuner. CW paddles<br /> : right on front of the radio. I would have liked to see a little more than 10W however its<br /> : certainly a reasonable and usable amount of power (and better than 5W). Has option for <br /> : an external KXPA100 100W amp and KXAT100 tuner. Overall it is an exciting product and I <br /> : probably would have bought one if I wasn't looking to have 2m/440 in the same radio.<br /> : I don't know if it supports CTCSS for 10m FM repeaters and CTCSS/DCS for 6m FM repeaters.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC706MK2G====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 5.5lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1800-2000mA, tx: 20A/100W)<br /> : RX current way too high, VHF frontend easily overloads. Nice display as with the IC703<br /> : above. The RX current is a deal breaker for battery ops. <br /> <br /> ====Icom IC7000====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($1200, 5.1lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1300-1600mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : Nice radio. RX current better than IC706 but still a little on the high side for battery ops.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-897D====<br /> : Mobile/portable amateur radio ($900, 8.6lb, 11.7-15.9v, rx: 600-1000mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : HF/50 MHz:5 watts = 4.0-4.7 amps 10 watts = 5.3-6.4 amps 25 watts = 7.3-9.2 amps 50 watts = 10.6-12.9 amps<br /> : 144 MHz: 5 watts = 3.4 amps 10 watts = 4.2 amps 25 watts = 6.3 amps 50 watts = 9.4 amps<br /> : 420 MHz: 5 watts = 4.2 amps 10 watts = 5.6 amps 20 watts = 8.7 amps<br /> :<br /> : Designed for field ops and has room for internal batteries (13.2v, 9AH) however the batteries<br /> : add an additional 6.5lbs to a radio which is already heavy at 8.6lbs. One option is to run your<br /> : own external battery which gives you room to install an internal 120V power supply. Overall<br /> : I really like this radio but its ruggedness will cost you in weight. You can get the FT-857D<br /> : (sacrificing the 897's rugged case and internal battery space) and save 4lbs on your back.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-857D====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 4.6lb, 12.4-15.2v,<br /> : rx: 600-1000mA (spec) 650-700mA (green/red backlight) 590mA (backlight off)<br /> : tx: 2A/5W 5A/15W 22A/100W)<br /> : Unlike the FT-897D above, this radio does not come with a TCXO. By the time you spend $100 on<br /> : the TCXO you end up with about the same radio as the FT-897D for the same price. Comparing the<br /> : FT-857D to the FT-897D has some pluses: 4lbs lighter, detachable head, and easier to mount mobile.<br /> : The minuses are we don't get the rugged case and battery space. I don't think either of these<br /> : minuses will matter as the radio and batteries will end up in a pack. One other thing to note is<br /> : both the 857 and 897 will automatically limit the radio to 20W when running on battery power<br /> : (by grounding the brown wire on the power connector).<br /> : Spec says voltage is 12.4-15.2, manual says 11.73-15.87.<br /> : The 857's signal will start sounding bad at about 11.75v.<br /> <br /> Given everything above it came down to deciding between the FT-857D and FT-897D.&lt;br&gt;<br /> I chose the FT-857D because its 4lbs lighter than the FT-897D. Every pound counts when backpacking !&lt;br&gt;<br /> The radio is best equipped with: tcxo-9, keypad mic, (2) W4RT/inrad.net filters.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Tuner===<br /> For honorable mention we have the long-discontinued Kenwood AT-130 which is a very small 80-10m(+WARC)&lt;br&gt;<br /> manual tuner (6 x 2.4 x 6.3 inches, 3.5 lbs.). For field ops I prefer a small autotuner. Yaesu makes the&lt;br&gt;<br /> FC-30 ($170, 17-150 ohms, 3.1 x 1.8 x 10.2 in, 2.2 lbs) however its 17-150 ohm tuning range is quite&lt;br&gt;<br /> narrow compared to the LDG product line.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the breakdown of the LDG products I looked at. All of them have latching relays.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> : $200 LDG YT-100 for 857/897 100w 4-800 ohm 7 x 7 x 2 1.5lbs<br /> : $200 LDG AT-897+ for 857/897 100w 6-800 ohm 11.5 x 3.25 x 1.5 2.0lbs<br /> : $160 Z100+ ? 125w 6-800 ohm 5.5 x 5.5 x 1.5 1 lb w/o batts<br /> : $170 Z11pro2 6-1000 ohm 7.7 x 5.0 x 1.5 1.5lb w/o batts<br /> &lt;br&gt; <br /> I ended up going with the Z11pro2 as it can autotune based on RF sense which keeps the CAT and ACC ports free. This is good because we&lt;br&gt;<br /> need both ports for our data interface. Another bonus of RF sense tuning is it makes the radio PC-ALE capable provided the antenna is&lt;br&gt;<br /> tunable on whatever ALE frequencies are to be used.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device on the left is the data/soundcard interface&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[File:FT857_and_tuner.jpg]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Battery===<br /> The following text describes how to build a battery pack. If you do not want to build this battery pack then you can buy one already built. For example you can look up &quot;ZIPPY Flightmax 8400mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack&quot; which currently sells for about $75. You will need to find a suitable charger for it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> I initially considered using 11 Accupower NiMH low-discharge &quot;D&quot; cells (10aH, 1.25v, 145g ea.)&lt;br&gt;<br /> This would give us 13.75v, 10aH at 3.5lb for about $110.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After more research I went with (8) 40160S LiFePO4 batteries (16AH/ea). This project really only needs 4 of these<br /> batteries however I opted to build two battery packs. 4 of these batteries in series gives you around 13 volts.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The 40160S 16AH battery is no longer being sold. The manufacturer has replaced it with the 40152S 15AH battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Paired with each battery pack is a circuit which protects from overcharge/overdischarge/overcurrent. It also keeps the batteries balanced<br /> while charging. After a long search for a suitable lightweight container I found the 4-battery pack fits perfectly into a &quot;Huggies&quot;<br /> baby wipe plastic box. I cut a small slot in the box for a short piece of velcro which holds the lid closed. The complete pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If you intend on taking your backpack radio on a commercial aircraft, keep in mind there are restrictions on high capacity lithium ion batteries. If you believe this will be a problem you can build a pack from 11 NiMH D cells or use a pre-made NiMH RC pack. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Notice the top door works great for the powerpole.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is a view of the internals. The protection circuit board is on the top.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The AC adapter/charger===<br /> I wanted enough beef for the radio to do 20W off the adapter. I ended up getting IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter<br /> for about $14 off ebay. It is relatively small and weighs 0.4 lb. I run it through a bridge rectifier which reduces the voltage to 14.8V which is suitable for operating the radio and charging the battery pack. Of course running DC through a bridge rectifier only uses two of the four diodes however it was an inexpensive solution which is much easier than standalone diodes to mount to the cable/fuse.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I found that the battery pack can draw up to 8A during charging so I used a 10A fuse on the power supply. Yes, I know the power supply is only rated at 7.5A and putting a 10A fuse on it is not good practice. So far it hasn't been a problem. During charging the bridge rectifier can get quite hot so make sure it is on a non-flammable surface. The obvious solution to all this would be a series current limiting resistor which is something I'll look into when I get the time.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> For now I am charging the battery pack with a small smart charger (Noco Genius G3500) which is set for a standard 12V battery at a 3.5A charge rate. It just so happens that its output voltage on this setting is just right for charging the LiFePO4 battery. The Noco Genius is a handy little charger as it is also good for charging and topping off car batteries, AGM batteries, 12V 7AH brick batteries, etc. and it will float the batteries without overcharging them. Another nice thing about this charger is its small enough to fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ac_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Solar Panel===<br /> PowerFilm F15-1200 20W (10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6&quot; 1 lb )&lt;br&gt;<br /> Nice compact and light panel but a little pricey at $10/watt. I would have gone with their 30W panel but it was even more overpriced.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the solar panel<br /> [[File:W7ki_solar_panel.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Computer===<br /> EEEPC 1000h. Small battery-efficient netbook with 10&quot; screen. Used it because I had it on hand. Any netbook would probably do ok so<br /> long as it has mic/headphone jacks. One bonus of this particular computer is you can feed it 12VDC direct.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the computer<br /> [[File:W7ki_netbook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Data Interface===<br /> Homemade. Nothing fancy, just some audio isolation transformers, a level converter, and a PTT transistor.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The data interface and the tuner are attached to the mobile mounting bracket with velcro. Note how the mobile bracket is angled such that the front of the tuner is slightly elevated. This was done to give some clearance to the radio speaker and also helps to direct the audio out of the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_data_interface1.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Antenna===<br /> I looked at a variety of compact antennas (Outbacker Joey, Outbacker Stealth Plus, ATX-W38 walkabout, ATX-DHP, and a handful<br /> of others). It was difficult to find anything that would collapse to under 18 inches (requirement for the pack I'm using). It was probably just as well<br /> since many &quot;portable&quot; antennas are helical which I personally despise.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My original intent was to buy a &quot;Buddi&quot; product and evaluate how it worked in a vertical configuration. The only issue was whether their 80 meter coil would fit in the pack. I emailed them multiple times asking the dimensions of the coil but unfortunately all of my emails were ignored. This probably speaks volumes as to how they handle issues after a sale so I thought it best not to do business with them until their customer communication improves.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Of all the pre-made antennas I found The SuperAntenna MP1B SuperStick would likely be the best off the shelf solution as it collapses to 12 inches and weighs under 2 pounds. When I first wrote this article their company had no products available which I believe was due to a transition in ownership. Their products are now available again and I plan on trying one out. I would buy the MP1B antenna, TM1 mount, and optionally MC60 coil for 60 meters and MC80 coil for 80 meters. A properly adjusted SuperAntenna requires no tuner however you need to use a correct length ground radial. This is my recommendation if you do not want to build an antenna. The text past this point describes how to build an antenna/coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I ended up using a military AT271-A/PRC antenna. It is a 7 section antenna with a 3/8-24 base that extends to 113.5 inches and collapses to 17 inches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> It has an optional 8 inch spring (AB-129/PR) which I am not currently using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:At271a.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As an alternative I found an 8.5' collapsible aluminum pole made for measuring snowpacks and after some tinkering it worked like a charm.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pole_antenna.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Either of these antennas is very usable on HF when paired with a couple of 18&quot; aluminum extender rods and a large tapped coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_big_coil.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> Obviously running a huge coil with a short antenna is about as worthless as a short helical so its important to remember to use as much whip or longwire as you can if you<br /> are less than 1/4 wave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a horizontal option I built a tapped voltage balun which attaches to a vertical extension arm and connects to two spools of wire.<br /> [[File:W7ki_horiz_setup.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;The wire spools can also be used as a counterpoise for vertical configurations.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the bottom is a carbon fiber camera monopod which we use as a vertical extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the top is a carpal tunnel wrist strap which is used for attaching the monopod extension arm to the pack aluminum extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is wound on Coleman camping clothesline spools.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Another HF antenna option is to build the St. Louis Vertical: http://www.amqrp.org/projects/stluisvert/STLV%20Project.html&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For VHF/UHF I have a 17&quot; dual-band antenna. For VHF only you can also put one of the 18&quot; aluminum rods onto the 1&quot; antenna mount.&lt;br&gt;<br /> 6 meters can be done with the 17&quot; antenna on top of both 18&quot; rods.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Pack===<br /> I looked at dozens of packs before settling on the Jansport Driver 8. Most other packs were either oversized and/or too heavy.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My reasoning for a 21x14x10&quot; size limit is so you can carry this on a commercial airplane if you are traveling. You certainly wouldn't want<br /> to check this as luggage as it would probably get destroyed by handling or stolen.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Two main things I liked about the Driver 8 are the wheels and the telescoping arm. The telescoping arm is wonderful because it is very sturdy<br /> aluminum which allows you to securely attach an antenna to it. This is great for manpack operations if you want the antenna up while you are<br /> walking around with the pack on your back. It also works great for fixed operations as the pack itself can be used as an antenna base.<br /> The wheels not only give your back a break where smooth surfaces are available, they also give you the ability to easily lay down the pack when assembling a long antenna. Its like having a mini fold over tower.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The wheels are inline skate wheels and have a very low ground clearance. It will roll fine inside buildings or on a paved sidewalk. The wheels will not work on a trail. This is unfortunate as it is much easier to pull 35 lbs on wheels than to heft it on your back. One possible solution to this is to run a 1/2 inch rod (or thread stock?) along the bottom of the pack and install a pair of 10&quot; x 1.75 lightweight plastic wheels. I would use Martin Wheel part number 110 wheels because they come with metal ball bearings.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:w7ki_pack_radio.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Construction and Setup==<br /> A complete materials and sources list is at the end of this article.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Extension Rods and Antenna===<br /> To make the aluminum extension rods you need a 3 foot piece of aluminum rod. Cut the rod into 3 pieces, 2 of them will be 17 inches long and the third piece will be the remaining 2 inches.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take a 21/64 inch drill bit and drill about 1.5 inches into both ends of the 17 inch rods. Be careful to drill straight. Once this is done tap threads into both ends with a 3/8-24 tap. Tapping threads into aluminum generates a tremendous amount of head so remember to tap slowly and use an oil lubricant. Right after tapping these rods I bumped one of them with my arm and got a very nasty burn.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the tapping is done thread a 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud into both ends of the rods. Then, for each rod, put a 3/8-24 jam nut over the stud on one end and put a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut over the stud on the other end. When you are done it should look like the picture below.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> This section deals with constructing the antenna if you chose not to buy an AT-271 antenna:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now grab the remaining 2 inch piece of aluminum rod. Drill one end 1 inch deep with a size F (.2443 inch) bit then drill the other end 1 inch deep with the 21/64 inch drill bit you used for the other rods. Tap 5/16-18 threads into the size F end and 3/8-24 threads into the 21/64 end.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take the aluminum antenna, remove the lanyard string, push in the lower release spring button and shove it up the tube a couple inches, and tap the bottom for 5/16-18 threads. The two photos below show the start and finish of tapping the threads. I seriously do not recommend using vise-grips as shown in the photos. The antenna deforms very easily. It would be much better to lightly use a vise which can distribute the grip better with much less crush force. Again, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CRUSH OR DEFORM THE TUBE. I darn near destroyed the prototype using vise-grips.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Next we take a 1.5 inch 5/16-18 stud and thread half of it into the antenna. This is generally difficult to do so I recommend tightening two 5/16-18 nuts against each other onto the stud and use the outer nut with a wrench. Once the stud is threaded into the antenna you can thread the 2 inch aluminum rod onto the stud, then thread a 3/8-24 stud into the other end of the rod. Put a 3/8-24 jam nut onto the exposed threads. What you have done here is built a 5/16-18 to 3/8-24 thread adapter. The photo below shows what the finished product should look like.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rod_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The next step is to modify the antenna to make it conductive. The anodized surfaces do not conduct electricity so you need to take some sandpaper and sand out the inside of the bottom of each rod (about 3/4 inch should do). Another issue is the tapered inserts which are crimped into the top of the rods. These don't conduct either so you need to lightly bond them with an arc weld. This should be done with a MIG or TIG welder. Remember to sand the surfaces first, including the entire tapered section. I cheesed mine by using two truck batteries, a pair of jumper cables, and some real thin aluminum wire. Some people refer to this as hillbilly arc welding. Please don't do this unless you know the risks, know what you are doing, and you are using appropriate eye protection. Verify the end to end continuity of the antenna with an ohmmeter when you are done. Here is what mine looked like when it was done.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_hillbilly_weld.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The final step is to flatten out the pointed tip of the antenna rod. You can do this with a grinder or file.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Coil===<br /> The coil is made from a 7 3/4 inch piece of 4 inch diameter drainpipe with a drainpipe cap on each end. To make room for more coil turns we cut 1 3/8 inch off the end of the drainpipe cap. You need to cut two end caps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Locate the center of each cap, tap the center with a center punch or nail, drill a 1/8&quot; pilot hole, then drill in again with a 3/8&quot; bit.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now we take a piece of 1/4 inch schedule 80 pvc pipe and drill/tap it for 3/8-24 threads the same way you did the aluminum rods (except please don't use lubricating oil). Its important to use schedule 80 pipe as it has the correct inside diameter for tapping threads. The pipe should be about 7 1/2 inches long and later you might have to make some slight length adjustments for fit. Once your threads are tapped you can thread a 1.5 inch 3/8-24 stud into each end then put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer over the end (see photo below). Put one end into an end cap, put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer on the outside of the end cap, stack one 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal on top of the washer, and secure it with a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut stacked on top of the ring terminal.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Put the other end cap on. On the outside stack a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer, a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal, and a 3/8-24 jam nut.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to cover up any holes in the drainpipe with a square of duct tape.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To make the coil, glue 4 pieces of .065 Nylon Edge Trim as shown in the photo (credit to Phil AD5X for finding this edge trim). When cutting them to length, remember to offset each one to correctly accommodate a spirally-wound coil. Once this is done, drill a .065&quot; diagonal hole from the edge of the cap through the top of each cap (see photo), thread the wire through the hole and wind the coil with .064&quot; (14AWG) tin coated copper wire. Remember to keep tension on the coil or else it will wind loosely. The wire is stiff and doesn't come off the coil perfectly so there will be some manual coil alignment/straightening to do after the coil is wound. Once the coil is wound, put the ends thorough the 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminals, then cut &amp; solder. Be careful of heat damage to the plastic while soldering. Its usually best to loosen the end nuts prior to soldering as it will conduct less heat away from the ring terminals.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_end.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The coil tap is an EZ-Hook XM attached to a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal with an 11 inch piece of 22-gauge 7-strand insulated hookup wire. Attach the ring terminal above the coil ring terminal as shown in the photo.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_tap.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The EZ-Hook XM works great for 17AWG wire however its a little small for our 14AWG coil. The hook can be slightly adjusted with needlenose pliers to fit the 14AWG wire. The picture below shows the modified hook profile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ezhook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As built, the coil specs out like this: 7&quot; length, 4.25&quot; dia, 50 turns, 14ga .063 (spaced) = 129uH&lt;br&gt;<br /> Its a little overkill on the size &amp; inductance but it gives a lot of flexibility with short antennas.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Balun===<br /> The balun is based on a design by WB6ZQZ. His design appears to be a bifilar current balun in series with a quadrifilar voltage balun. We are only interested in the quadrifilar transformer because we will be using an external ferrite choke on the feedline (which allows us to use the choke for antenna configurations that don't use the voltage balun). Here is a link to instructions on how to wind the quadrifilar transformer:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> http://www.antennalaunchers.com/trb/photos.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Use 16ga enameled wire and a F-125-K toroid. Once the transformer is wound you can mount it on a small piece of plastic with holes drilled for the wires. Attach the wires to each other as per his schematic diagram and PC board photos.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mount the completed toroid into a 3x2x1 inch Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box. Install an SO-239 connector into the bottom of the box. For terminals I used (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts/nuts/wingnuts which are available at a home-improvement store. Label the terminals for Common, 50, 25, and 12 ohms. Attach a short piece of velcro to the back side which allows for mounting.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Antenna Mount &amp; Wire Spools===<br /> The antenna mount uses 1/4-20 hardware. I recommend replacing two of the nuts with wingnuts. Cut an 11 foot piece of Belden 8219 RG58A/U and loop it twice through two Laird LFB187102 ferrites as shown in the photo below. The coax fits tightly and we do not want to stretch it while pulling it through the ferrites so use a non-petroleum lubricant (I used cooking spray). Once this is done you can put UG-175/U reducers on the cable and solder a PL259 connector on each end.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_choke.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is spooled on a (2) Coleman 827E140T colthesline reels (thanks to Richard WA6KYR for finding these). Each Coleman reel comes with 21 feet of nylon cord. Pull all the cord out and cut off 13 feet so there is 8 feet remaining on the spool. Attach 59 1/2 feet of 22AWG insulated hookup wire to the end of the nylon cord. You can do this by stripping the end of the wire and pushing it through the middle of the nylon cord about 1/2 inch from the end, then secure the end of the nylon cord by lightly melting it with a lighter or soldering iron. Now you can reel in the wire. If it gets stuck you can open the reel with a 1/3 turn of the enclosure shell. Attach a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal to the end of the wire.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you are wondering why we use 59 1/2 feet it is because its the only length available that is reasonably close for loading at 75-80m and is not an even 1/2-wavelength multiple of any amateur band from 6m-40m (in fact we can go +/- 3 feet before bumping into one of these multiples. You should be able to roll this out to full length and tune any amateur band from 80m-6m. It also makes a good antenna to use with ALE and our RF-sensing tuner.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Battery===<br /> Each battery pack is made of (4) 40160S LiFePO4 cells (3.2V 16Ah) with a battery management circuit put into a Huggies wipe box.<br /> The battery management circuit sits on top of a plastic board which is an Akro-Mils 40150 (3.3 x 7.7 x 0.1 inch). Mount the batteries in the plastic holders, wire them in series with the bus bars, mount the battery management circuit, then wire it in. I recommend using a 30 amp fuse as pictured. Once this is done attach a 30A (12-14AWG) Powerpole connector with 12-gauge wire. The battery management circuit will charge the battery up to 14.2v before it automatically cuts off. The charger should be at least 14.6v.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each 40160S cell is rated at 3.65V (Max Charge), 3.2V (Nominal), and 2.0V (Discharge cut off).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Max charge current is 5C (80A) and max discharge current is 10C (160A).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cell life is rated at 2000 charge/discharge cycles under normal use.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete battery pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Data Interface===<br /> The data interface consists of audio isolation transformers, an RS232 level converter, and a PTT transistor. The audio circuit is per the &quot;KK7UQ Interface Model II&quot; circuit although I chose not to use the potentiometers and solid state relay in the original design. The original design and documentation can be found here:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://kk7uq.com/html/download/Manual2E.pdf<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The RS232 level converter is per a circuit attributed to OE1RIB.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I decided not to go with the Yaseu CT62 cable because I wanted the ability to use the DTR line for PTT (which is much cleaner for automated CW than keying with serial commands). Don't get me wrong here, I prefer a key, however flexibility was one of the design goals. I modified the level converter circuit to take power from the radio rather than trying to rob it from DTR/CTS with diodes. There is also a DPDT toggle switch on the back of the data interface which is an &quot;OFF&quot; switch (cuts the power from the radio and cuts the PTT line). I looked at off-the-shelf interfaces and most of them were either too big or required power for the audio circuitry.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Use a USB-serial converter if your computer doesn't have a serial port. I recommend using converters with the FTDI chipset for best performance and OS compatibility (I used USBG-RS232-F12 from usbgear.com).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the actual circuit I used to build the data interface:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to leave clearance for the jacks and switches when laying out the components on the PC board.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Velcro attachment<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Mounted to radio<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To connect the interface box to the radio I used a short piece of cat5 network cable wired like this&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT RD W-Br&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT TD W-G&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT + Br-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT GND G-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Data Out12 O-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data In W-Bl&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data PTT W-O&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data GND Bl-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The mini-din connectors go in very tight so beware of non-functioning or partial connections when you do this. Once you get them seated properly they work great and stay in place. Make sure to notch the back of the connector sleeves so the cables can exit at 90 degrees. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In the above photo you will also notice a connector/adapter contraption covered with electrical tape. These UHF right-angle adapters were used because the radio rests on its back side in the pack and we don't want the weight of the radio sitting on a PL259 connector and pinching the coax. All UHF right-angle adapters are not created equal. Most of them are garbage and use a small internal spring to connect the center conductor. The correct part to use is Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U. The adapter connecting the radio to the tuner is two of the Amphenol right-angle adapters connected with a short piece of LMR-600 with the center conductor diameter ground down from 0.176&quot; to 0.157&quot;. The length of the LMR600 and the mounting position of the tuner are critical because you don't want to obstruct the ports on the rear of the radio. As you can see in the photo below, this arrangement makes the back of the radio very compact which helps it fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_back.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Power Wiring===<br /> On the power supply you can add a third powerpole connector which is jumped to ground. When the third connector is also done on the radio side (connected to the radio brown wire) it forces the radio to 20W when plugged into the supply. This is good because our power supply is only rated for 7.5 amps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The power cable is 24 inches of 12-gauge red/black zipcord with a third wire for sensing low-power mode. Additionally it has a 16 inch length of zipcord for the tuner with a 2.5x5.5mm right-angle connector. As with the OEM cable, the 12-gauge cable splits off into two 14-gauge cables at the connector. You will notice that there are no fuses on this cable. I didn't bother because all my power sources for the pack are fused. In hindsight it would be prudent to put 30A fuses on both the positive and negative wires.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Third Powerpole connector for low power sense.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Connector end detail<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Monopod===<br /> The monopod is used to elevate the feedpoint of the dipole or a short vertical antenna. It is carbon fiber, weighs only 19oz, and extends to 68&quot;.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The monopod needs to be shortened to fit into the pack. Going around the perimeter of the small end rod, cut off the bottom half of the top rubber cap. This will allow the rod to collapse about an additional 1/2 inch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The bottom cap can be removed by pushing in the two roll pins with a small center punch. Then, with the rod fully collapsed, you will see there is about 13/16 inch you can saw off the big end without hitting the smaller rods that collapse inside of it. The photo below shows it after the cut.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Radio setup===<br /> Here is how I set mine up&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 7.000mhz<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to on.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 19&quot; (CAT Rate). Set it to 9600.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 29&quot; (CW Sidetone). Set it to 5.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 38&quot; (Dig Mode). Set it to PSK31-U.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 59&quot; (Mic Sel). Set it to RMT if you are using the MH-59A8J mic.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 86&quot; (TX IF Filter). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 2.3<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 50.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 144.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 20.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 446.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 10.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Enable 2.3kc filter for TX:<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push FUNC, rotate select to N, press 2.3 (above B key)<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ==Usage==<br /> The most basic setup is pulling the aluminum pack handle up one notch and attaching the mount/antenna. This can be used for a quick base setup or walking around with the pack on your back. The photo below shows the mount and 2m/70cm whip installed. If you want a somewhat useful counterpoise for 6m/2m/70cm without attaching the counterpoise wire, simply invert the feedline such that the chokes are by the radio instead of by the antenna. This way you can use the coax itself for a counterpoise. Its certainly not the best way to do it but it will work.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each aluminum rod is 18&quot; and you can use one of them by itself for a 2m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rods2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you use both rods with the 2m/70cm whip on top you will have a 6m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> You can use the monopod to elevate the a 6m/2m/70cm antenna. We use the carpal tunnel wrist strap to attach the monopod to the packs aluminum handle. The next photo looks like the leaning tower of Pisa because my first prototype was done with a medium-sized wrist strap. I have since moved to a small-sized strap which makes it stand much straighter. The monopod is good for 6m/2m/70cm verticals and for holding the feedpoint of a dipole. Do not use the monopod with the 8-foot antenna rod and/or the large loading coil as it gets too topheavy to remain stable. The following photo shows the ground radials installed and the choke ferrite near the antenna feedpoint. For a simpler setup you can skip the ground radials and invert the feedline (so the choke ferrites are near the radio) which will make the feedline act as a counterpoise. Yes I know this was said earlier in the article but its worth repeating.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_8.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Detail of antenna mount attached to the monopod pole<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_9.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The collapsible antenna by itself will work as a quarter-wave on 10m (pictured below) and should also tune up ok on 12m. It will work as a quarter-wave on 15m if you add the two aluminum extension rods.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Attaching the coil (tapped on the lowest turn) to the antenna base with the two aluminum rods above it will tune down to 80m. This configuration will have near zero efficiency however it will allow short-range communication on 75/80m while walking around with the pack on your back.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The best vertical configuration for 80m thru 17m is attaching the two rods to the base, putting the coil on top of the rods, then putting the collapsible aluminum antenna rod on top. It is best to tilt the pack over on its wheels and assemble the antenna on the ground.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once its assembled, tilt it up by lifting the aluminum arm on the pack. The weight of the batteries do a good job of keeping the antenna in place.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you want to try 160 meters you can remove the 8 foot whip and connect one of the 59-foot wire spools to the top of the coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a dipole configuration you can strap the balun to the top of the monopod and connect our spools of wire to it. Dipoles work best when they are at least 1/4 wave above the ground. Our feedpoint impedance will typically be much less than 50 ohms because in most cases we will be less than 1/4 wave off the ground. This will be especially noticeable on 40m/80m. Attach one wire to the &quot;C&quot; (common) balun terminal and attach the other wire to either the 12, 25, or 50 ohm terminal depending on which one works best. The wire spools use 3/8 ring terminals so we can optionally connect them directly to the vertical antenna mount if you want to feed a dipole directly without the balun.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One other important thing to note about dipoles is its best to keep the ends up off the ground. There is 8 feet of nylon rope at the end of the spools which can help in getting your wire somewhere it can be secured. In my pack I also keep short plastic tent stakes and short bungee cords which can help in some situations.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_10.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> There are a few other odds &amp; ends I keep in the pack. The PL-259 center to ring terminal adapter is for using the voltage balun with the vertical antenna. The Powerpole &quot;Y&quot; cable is for running the AC adapter or solar charger while using the radio. The short 3/8-24 bolt is for attaching a dipole wire directly to the antenna mount or to the top of the coil. There are also two 8-foot stereo cables for the data adapter and a 10-foot serial cable (not pictured). (I chose 8-10' cables to keep the computer RF a little ways away from the radio/antenna). At the bottom is the usb/serial adapter and on the bottom right are short velcro cable ties for attaching the feedline to the monopole and/or aluminum pack handle.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_misc.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is how it all fits into the pack<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_11.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete pack with both batteries and the computer weighs 35 lbs.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The weight can be substantially reduced by removing the spare battery, AC adapter, computer (if you don't need it), and any antenna parts you don't plan on using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In case you are wondering where the CW key/paddles are, I'm still working on finding a solution that works well with this portable setup.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Two that have been recommended are the mini paddle from milestone technologies and the traveler light from begali.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ==Parts &amp; Prices==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> $799 FT857D w/YSK857<br /> $95 TCXO-9<br /> $82 MH-59A8J DTMF mic (also needed for direct freq entry)<br /> <br /> $120 W4RT2.3khz ssb filter<br /> $169 Z-11pro2<br /> <br /> $14 IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter (ebay)<br /> $2 bridge rectifier KBPC5010 (ebay)<br /> <br /> $144 (8) 16ah 40160s lifepo4 $24/ea (bmsbattery.com or manzanitamicro.com)<br /> $3 (8) 40160S battery holders 0.40/ea<br /> $4 (8) 40160S bus bar connectors 0.50/ea<br /> $80 battery shipping<br /> <br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> <br /> $97 (2) 30A Battery Management PCB http://www.batteryspace.com/pcbprotectioncircuitmodulefor4cells128vlifepo4batterypackat30alimited.aspx<br /> <br /> $11 USB to serial converter http://www.usbgear.com/computer_cable_details.cfm?sku=USBG-RS232-F12&amp;cats=199&amp;catid=482%2C199%2C601%2C461<br /> <br /> $8 3/8X24 Thread Mirror Mount: Wilson 901104<br /> $5 (20') Belden 8219 (RG58A/U) <br /> $3 (4) Amphenol 83-185-RFX (UG-175 reducer)<br /> $20 (4) Amphenol 83-822 (PL259)<br /> $10 shipping (theantennafarm.com)<br /> <br /> $79 Jansport Driver 8 TN89-008 UPC 757969203361 Wheeled Backpack (buy.com)<br /> <br /> $6 dual-band (2/440) whip with 3/8x24 mount (hamstick EDBW-1, Opek DB-1, or Workman DB-1) <br /> $4 (2) CONXPARTSA Kenwood KW2000 (Parts A)<br /> $3 (6 feet) Red &amp; Black DC wire 12 GA<br /> $9 shipping (k1cra.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (3') LMR-600 (showmecables.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 nuts (7/16&quot; head)<br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts<br /> $2 (8) 1/4&quot;-20 wingnuts<br /> $9 (10') 4&quot; drainpipe (we need one 7 3/4&quot; piece)<br /> $4 (2) 4&quot; drainpipe cap (home depot)<br /> <br /> $20 (5) littelfuse FHA30 12AWG inline fuse holder<br /> $3 (1) 5-pack of ATO 7.5 fuse (drillspot.com)<br /> <br /> $3 4' 14 gauge cable (for short part of radio power connector) (.62/ft)<br /> $1 4' 18 gauge cable (for battery sense +/- to pcb, low power wire on power cable) (.31/ft)<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (22-18) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $4 (1) 1/4&quot; (16-14) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (12-10) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $10 shipping (parts-express.com)<br /> <br /> (1) DB9F mouser 156-1309 0.80<br /> (4) BC546A mouser 512-BC546A 0.10<br /> (2) 5.6k 1/4w mouser 588-OD562JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (3) 10k 1/4w mouser 588-OD103JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (1) 3.5mm 3-pin plug (cw) (2 wires used) mouser 568-NYS231BG 1.69 (for cw jack)<br /> (1) 8-pin mini-din (cat) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2608 1.49<br /> (1) 6-pin mini-din (data) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2606 1.36<br /> (2) 600ohm 1:1 transformer mouser 42TL016-RC 1.66<br /> (2) 51 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD510JE 0.42<br /> (1) 1uf cap mouser 5989-100V1.0-F 0.71<br /> (1) .0047uf cap mouser 140-50P5-472K-RC 50v ceramic disc 0.12<br /> (1) 100 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD101JE 0.42 carbon comp 5%<br /> (1) 1k 1/4w mouser 588-OD102JE 0.42<br /> (1) board mouser 854-PR1593K $4.10 2.6 x 2.6<br /> (1) box mouser 546-1593KBK $2.88 (box is 2.6 x 2.6 x 1.1)<br /> (2) 2.2k resistor 1/2w carbon comp 5% mouser 588-OF222JE (1/4w mouser 588-OD222JE 0.42 not avail)<br /> (4) PL259 right angle Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U Mouser 523-83-1AP $14.70/ea<br /> (1) 2.5x5.5mm right angle plug (24AWG) power plug for tuner mouser 171-3216-EX $1.04/ea<br /> (2) ferrites - mouser 875-LFB187102-000 3.03/ea 3/4&quot; OD .400&quot; ID 1.125&quot; long (3 turns RG58 = 1000 ohm impedance @ 1-5mhz)<br /> (2) mouser 526-WH22-00-100 100' 22awg copper 7-strand hookup wire black nteinc.com $19 (use p/n 03-100 for orange) insulation OD 0.060&quot;<br /> (2) 3.5mm stereo jacks 502-35RAPC3BV4 2.73<br /> $112 total<br /> $12 shipping (mouser.com)<br /> <br /> $8 (1) 14-pack 3/8 ring terminal 16-14AWG (JT&amp;T 2011H - amazon.com)<br /> $18 (2) 8ft 3.5mm stereo cables (mediabridge - amazon.com)<br /> $3 21/64 (.3281&quot;) drill bit for 3/8-24 threads (amazon.com)<br /> $28 3' Aluminum 6061-T6 Seamless Round Tubing, WW-T 700/6, 1/2&quot; OD, 1/4&quot; ID, 1/8&quot; Wall, 36&quot; Length (amazon.com)<br /> $65 Opteka CFM300 68&quot; 5 Section 8x Carbon Fiber Monopod (amazon.com)<br /> $209 (1) PowerFilm F15-1200 20W solar panel 10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6 1 lb (amazon.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (4) EZ-Hook XM (digi-key 461-1004-ND)<br /> <br /> $2 Akro-Mils plastic dividers (Akro-Mils 40150 wasserstrom.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (8) 3/8-24 Jam Nuts 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (2) 3/8-24 Hex Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $10 (5) 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (10) 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer 316 Stainless Steel<br /> $7 shipping (fastener-warehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $7 (5') 1/4&quot; schedule 80 PVC pipe (usplastic.com)<br /> <br /> $14 (2) coleman 827E140T colthesline reel (coleman.com)<br /> <br /> $58 AT-271A/PRC antenna (ebay) OR $58 Voile Tourlight Avalanche Probe (8 foot) (voile-usa.com)<br /> <br /> $2 (2) 6&quot; tent stakes (rei.com)<br /> $2 (1) 4-pack of 10&quot; bungee cords (rei.com)<br /> $8 tax/shipping (rei.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) F-125-K Toroid Core 1.25&quot; 250-300 permeability low loss ferrite 1-30 mhz (theaudioguru.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (1) 1/4 lb Wire, 16ga (0.05&quot;) enameled (we need 4 feet for toroid) (allspectrum.com or jameco.com)<br /> <br /> $20 (1) 79-87283 DonJoy COMFORTFORM WRIST support-Small right (expressorthopedics.com - warning, it takes them a month to ship it)<br /> <br /> $8 Cables To Go 52030 - 6ft DB9 M/F All Lines Extension Cable Black (nextwarehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) 85085K8 25-pack nylon edge trim .065 gap width 3/16 opening, 15/64 height, 12 3/4 long<br /> $23 (1) 8871K71 80' (1 lb) spool .064&quot; (14ga) tin coated copper wire (spool says Arcor 14AWG)<br /> $2 (1) 91187A202 1.5&quot; 5/16-18 RHT stainless stud (or you can order a 10-pack for $4.55 with part number 95412A587)<br /> $10 (2) 95412A659 5-pack of 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud<br /> $9 tax/shipping (mcmaster.com)<br /> <br /> ==========<br /> $2518 approximate cost<br /> <br /> <br /> $? (1) stickyback velcro (attach tuner to radio mount)<br /> <br /> $? (1) velcro wire ties (attach coax to antenna mast)<br /> <br /> $? (1) 3/8-24 tap<br /> $? (1) 5/16-18 tap<br /> $? (1) Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box (for balun) 3x2x1&quot;<br /> <br /> $? (4) 30A (12-14AWG) red/black powerpole connector (1 for radio, 2 for batteries, 1 for AC/DC power supply)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;</div> Sun, 03 Nov 2013 16:58:27 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:W7KI_Manpack_Radio http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/W7KI_Manpack_Radio <p>Rich:&#32;/* The Tuner */</p> <hr /> <div>[[File:FT857_and_tuner_in_pack.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;This article details how I set up a HF/VHF/UHF manpack radio.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> ==Overview==<br /> ===Design goals===<br /> Radio RF Output:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Minimum of 20W, preferable to have optional 50W+ available if needed<br /> Radio Frequency coverage:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : HF, 6 meters, 2 meters, and 70cm<br /> Radio Modes:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : FM/SSB/CW/PSK<br /> Radio receive current:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : preferably less than 700mA<br /> Tuner:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : 10-500ohm minimum, preferable little to no idle current<br /> Battery:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : sufficient to handle a weekend without recharging<br /> Power:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Battery, AC, or solar&lt;br&gt;<br /> Antenna:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Vertical or dipole with optional voltage balun<br /> PC:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Small netbook capable of digital modes<br /> Size:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Everything fits within a pack suitable for airplane carry-on (21x14x10&quot;).<br /> All items:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Weight as minimal as possible !<br /> Cost:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : $2500 neighborhood<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Radio===<br /> Here is a quick rundown of the radios I considered:&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Military radios==== <br /> : I looked at the PRC-104, PRC-132, PRC-138, PRC-320, PRC-1099, PRC-2000, and AEG SE-6861.<br /> : All of them are good radios. Only problem is I want HF/6/2/440 so I'm stuck<br /> : with looking at amateur radios.<br /> <br /> ====Vertex VX-1210====<br /> : This is a commercial radio ($1400+, 7.1lb w/batt, rx: 500mA, tx: 3A/5W, 5A/20W)<br /> : Very tempting but is HF only. Has option for internal autotuner and can be<br /> : set up for VFO operation. Battery is 14.4v 4AH.<br /> <br /> ====Mobat Micom 3 Pathfinder====<br /> : This is a 25W commercial radio. Excessive cost for this project. Otherwise a great radio !<br /> <br /> ====Outback radios (QMAC, Barrett, Codan)====<br /> : QMAC HF90 excessive cost &amp; no longer made, Barrett 940 too heavy (18.5lbs w/tuner battery)<br /> : Barrett 2040, Codan 2110 excessive cost.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-817ND====<br /> : Portable amateur radio ($600, 2.6lb, 8-16v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 2A/5W)<br /> : Tempting, and would pair nicely with LDG Z-817 tuner.<br /> : Only problem is I want 20W+. This could be accomplished with a Tokyo High Power HL-45B<br /> : amp ($400, 3.4 lbs, 8.5A/45W, 160-6m) + LDG Z-817H tuner.<br /> : This is a viable combination and has the benefit of low RX current.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC703+====<br /> : Amateur radio (discontinued, 4.4lb, 9-15.8v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 3A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Nice radio, big and easily readable display, built in autotuner. Wish it did 2m/440<br /> : like its bigger brother (IC-706).<br /> <br /> ====Elecraft KX3====<br /> : Portable amateur radio (new to market, 1.5lb, 8-14v(?), rx: 150-???mA, tx: ?A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Great display and control layout located on what would normally be considered the &quot;top&quot;<br /> : of the radio which gives ample room compared to other radios. Built in autotuner. CW paddles<br /> : right on front of the radio. I would have liked to see a little more than 10W however its<br /> : certainly a reasonable and usable amount of power (and better than 5W). Has option for <br /> : an external KXPA100 100W amp and KXAT100 tuner. Overall it is an exciting product and I <br /> : probably would have bought one if I wasn't looking to have 2m/440 in the same radio.<br /> : I don't know if it supports CTCSS for 10m FM repeaters and CTCSS/DCS for 6m FM repeaters.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC706MK2G====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 5.5lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1800-2000mA, tx: 20A/100W)<br /> : RX current way too high, VHF frontend easily overloads. Nice display as with the IC703<br /> : above. The RX current is a deal breaker for battery ops. <br /> <br /> ====Icom IC7000====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($1200, 5.1lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1300-1600mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : Nice radio. RX current better than IC706 but still a little on the high side for battery ops.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-897D====<br /> : Mobile/portable amateur radio ($900, 8.6lb, 11.7-15.9v, rx: 600-1000mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : HF/50 MHz:5 watts = 4.0-4.7 amps 10 watts = 5.3-6.4 amps 25 watts = 7.3-9.2 amps 50 watts = 10.6-12.9 amps<br /> : 144 MHz: 5 watts = 3.4 amps 10 watts = 4.2 amps 25 watts = 6.3 amps 50 watts = 9.4 amps<br /> : 420 MHz: 5 watts = 4.2 amps 10 watts = 5.6 amps 20 watts = 8.7 amps<br /> :<br /> : Designed for field ops and has room for internal batteries (13.2v, 9AH) however the batteries<br /> : add an additional 6.5lbs to a radio which is already heavy at 8.6lbs. One option is to run your<br /> : own external battery which gives you room to install an internal 120V power supply. Overall<br /> : I really like this radio but its ruggedness will cost you in weight. You can get the FT-857D<br /> : (sacrificing the 897's rugged case and internal battery space) and save 4lbs on your back.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-857D====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 4.6lb, 12.4-15.2v,<br /> : rx: 600-1000mA (spec) 650-700mA (green/red backlight) 590mA (backlight off)<br /> : tx: 2A/5W 5A/15W 22A/100W)<br /> : Unlike the FT-897D above, this radio does not come with a TCXO. By the time you spend $100 on<br /> : the TCXO you end up with about the same radio as the FT-897D for the same price. Comparing the<br /> : FT-857D to the FT-897D has some pluses: 4lbs lighter, detachable head, and easier to mount mobile.<br /> : The minuses are we don't get the rugged case and battery space. I don't think either of these<br /> : minuses will matter as the radio and batteries will end up in a pack. One other thing to note is<br /> : both the 857 and 897 will automatically limit the radio to 20W when running on battery power<br /> : (by grounding the brown wire on the power connector).<br /> : Spec says voltage is 12.4-15.2, manual says 11.73-15.87.<br /> : The 857's signal will start sounding bad at about 11.75v.<br /> <br /> Given everything above it came down to deciding between the FT-857D and FT-897D.&lt;br&gt;<br /> I chose the FT-857D because its 4lbs lighter than the FT-897D. Every pound counts when backpacking !&lt;br&gt;<br /> The radio is best equipped with: tcxo-9, keypad mic, (2) W4RT/inrad.net filters.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Tuner===<br /> For honorable mention we have the long-discontinued Kenwood AT-130 which is a very small 80-10m(+WARC)&lt;br&gt;<br /> manual tuner (6 x 2.4 x 6.3 inches, 3.5 lbs.). For field ops I prefer a small autotuner. Yaesu makes the&lt;br&gt;<br /> FC-30 ($170, 17-150 ohms, 3.1 x 1.8 x 10.2 in, 2.2 lbs) however its 17-150 ohm tuning range is quite&lt;br&gt;<br /> narrow compared to the LDG product line.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the breakdown of the LDG products I looked at. All of them have latching relays.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> : $200 LDG YT-100 for 857/897 100w 4-800 ohm 7 x 7 x 2 1.5lbs<br /> : $200 LDG AT-897+ for 857/897 100w 6-800 ohm 11.5 x 3.25 x 1.5 2.0lbs<br /> : $160 Z100+ ? 125w 6-800 ohm 5.5 x 5.5 x 1.5 1 lb w/o batts<br /> : $170 Z11pro2 6-1000 ohm 7.7 x 5.0 x 1.5 1.5lb w/o batts<br /> &lt;br&gt; <br /> I ended up going with the Z11pro2 as it can autotune based on RF sense which keeps the CAT and ACC ports free. This is good because we&lt;br&gt;<br /> need both ports for our data interface. Another bonus of RF sense tuning is it makes the radio PC-ALE capable provided the antenna is&lt;br&gt;<br /> tunable on whatever ALE frequencies are to be used.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device on the left is the data/soundcard interface&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[File:FT857_and_tuner.jpg]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Battery===<br /> The following text describes how to build a battery pack. If you do not want to build this battery pack then you can buy one already built. For example you can look up &quot;ZIPPY Flightmax 8400mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack&quot; which currently sells for about $75. You will need to find a suitable charger for it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> I initially considered using 11 Accupower NiMH low-discharge &quot;D&quot; cells (10aH, 1.25v, 145g ea.)&lt;br&gt;<br /> This would give us 13.75v, 10aH at 3.5lb for about $110.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After more research I went with (8) 40160S LiFePO4 batteries (16AH/ea). This project really only needs 4 of these<br /> batteries however I opted to build two battery packs. 4 of these batteries in series gives you around 13 volts.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The 40160S 16AH battery is no longer being sold. The manufacturer has replaced it with the 40152S 15AH battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Paired with each battery pack is a circuit which protects from overcharge/overdischarge/overcurrent. It also keeps the batteries balanced<br /> while charging. After a long search for a suitable lightweight container I found the 4-battery pack fits perfectly into a &quot;Huggies&quot;<br /> baby wipe plastic box. I cut a small slot in the box for a short piece of velcro which holds the lid closed. The complete pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If you intend on taking your backpack radio on a commercial aircraft, keep in mind there are restrictions on high capacity lithium ion batteries. If you believe this will be a problem you can build a pack from 11 NiMH D cells or use a pre-made NiMH RC pack. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Notice the top door works great for the powerpole.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is a view of the internals. The protection circuit board is on the top.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The AC adapter/charger===<br /> I wanted enough beef for the radio to do 20W off the adapter. I ended up getting IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter<br /> for about $14 off ebay. It is relatively small and weighs 0.4 lb. I run it through a bridge rectifier which reduces the voltage to 14.8V which is suitable for operating the radio and charging the battery pack. Of course running DC through a bridge rectifier only uses two of the four diodes however it was an inexpensive solution which is much easier than standalone diodes to mount to the cable/fuse.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I found that the battery pack can draw up to 8A during charging so I used a 10A fuse on the power supply. Yes, I know the power supply is only rated at 7.5A and putting a 10A fuse on it is not good practice. So far it hasn't been a problem. During charging the bridge rectifier can get quite hot so make sure it is on a non-flammable surface. The obvious solution to all this would be a series current limiting resistor which is something I'll look into when I get the time.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> For now I am charging the battery pack with a small smart charger (Noco Genius G3500) which is set for a standard 12V battery at a 3.5A charge rate. It just so happens that its output voltage on this setting is just right for charging the LiFePO4 battery. The Noco Genius is a handy little charger as it is also good for charging and topping off car batteries, AGM batteries, 12V 7AH brick batteries, etc. and it will float the batteries without overcharging them. Another nice thing about this charger is its small enough to fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ac_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Solar Panel===<br /> PowerFilm F15-1200 20W (10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6&quot; 1 lb )&lt;br&gt;<br /> Nice compact and light panel but a little pricey at $10/watt. I would have gone with their 30W panel but it was even more overpriced.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the solar panel<br /> [[File:W7ki_solar_panel.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Computer===<br /> EEEPC 1000h. Small battery-efficient netbook with 10&quot; screen. Used it because I had it on hand. Any netbook would probably do ok so<br /> long as it has mic/headphone jacks. One bonus of this particular computer is you can feed it 12VDC direct.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the computer<br /> [[File:W7ki_netbook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Data Interface===<br /> Homemade. Nothing fancy, just some audio isolation transformers, a level converter, and a PTT transistor.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The data interface and the tuner are attached to the mobile mounting bracket with velcro. Note how the mobile bracket is angled such that the front of the tuner is slightly elevated. This was done to give some clearance to the radio speaker and also helps to direct the audio out of the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_data_interface1.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Antenna===<br /> I looked at a variety of compact antennas (Outbacker Joey, Outbacker Stealth Plus, ATX-W38 walkabout, ATX-DHP, and a handful<br /> of others). It was difficult to find anything that would collapse to under 18 inches (requirement for the pack I'm using). It was probably just as well<br /> since many &quot;portable&quot; antennas are helical which I personally despise.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My original intent was to buy a &quot;Buddi&quot; product and evaluate how it worked in a vertical configuration. The only issue was whether their 80 meter coil would fit in the pack. I emailed them multiple times asking the dimensions of the coil but unfortunately all of my emails were ignored. This probably speaks volumes as to how they handle issues after a sale so I thought it best not to do business with them until their customer communication improves.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Of all the pre-made antennas I found The SuperAntenna MP1B SuperStick would likely be the best off the shelf solution as it collapses to 12 inches and weighs under 2 pounds. When I first wrote this article their company had no products available which I believe was due to a transition in ownership. Their products are now available again and I plan on trying one out. I would buy the MP1B antenna, TM1 mount, and optionally MC60 coil for 60 meters and MC80 coil for 80 meters. A properly adjusted SuperAntenna requires no tuner however you need to use a correct length ground radial. This is my recommendation if you do not want to build an antenna. The text past this point describes how to build an antenna/coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I ended up using a military AT271-A/PRC antenna. It is a 7 section antenna with a 3/8-24 base that extends to 113.5 inches and collapses to 17 inches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> It has an optional 8 inch spring (AB-129/PR) which I am not currently using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:At271a.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As an alternative I found an 8.5' collapsible aluminum pole made for measuring snowpacks and after some tinkering it worked like a charm.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pole_antenna.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Either of these antennas is very usable on HF when paired with a couple of 18&quot; aluminum extender rods and a large tapped coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_big_coil.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> Obviously running a huge coil with a short antenna is about as worthless as a short helical so its important to remember to use as much whip or longwire as you can if you<br /> are less than 1/4 wave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a horizontal option I built a tapped voltage balun which attaches to a vertical extension arm and connects to two spools of wire.<br /> [[File:W7ki_horiz_setup.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;The wire spools can also be used as a counterpoise for vertical configurations.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the bottom is a carbon fiber camera monopod which we use as a vertical extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the top is a carpal tunnel wrist strap which is used for attaching the monopod extension arm to the pack aluminum extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is wound on Coleman camping clothesline spools.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Another HF antenna option is to build the St. Louis Vertical: http://www.amqrp.org/projects/stluisvert/STLV%20Project.html&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For VHF/UHF I have a 17&quot; dual-band antenna. For VHF only you can also put one of the 18&quot; aluminum rods onto the 1&quot; antenna mount.&lt;br&gt;<br /> 6 meters can be done with the 17&quot; antenna on top of both 18&quot; rods.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Pack===<br /> I looked at dozens of packs before settling on the Jansport Driver 8. Most other packs were either oversized and/or too heavy.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My reasoning for a 21x14x10&quot; size limit is so you can carry this on a commercial airplane if you are traveling. You certainly wouldn't want<br /> to check this as luggage as it would probably get destroyed by handling or stolen.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Two main things I liked about the Driver 8 are the wheels and the telescoping arm. The telescoping arm is wonderful because it is very sturdy<br /> aluminum which allows you to securely attach an antenna to it. This is great for manpack operations if you want the antenna up while you are<br /> walking around with the pack on your back. It also works great for fixed operations as the pack itself can be used as an antenna base.<br /> The wheels not only give your back a break where smooth surfaces are available, they also give you the ability to easily lay down the pack when assembling a long antenna. Its like having a mini fold over tower.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The wheels are inline skate wheels and have a very low ground clearance. It will roll fine inside buildings or on a paved sidewalk. The wheels will not work on a trail. This is unfortunate as it is much easier to pull 35 lbs on wheels than to heft it on your back. One possible solution to this is to run a 1/2 inch rod (or thread stock?) along the bottom of the pack and install a pair of 10&quot; x 1.75 lightweight plastic wheels. I would use Martin Wheel part number 110 wheels because they come with metal ball bearings.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:w7ki_pack_radio.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Construction and Setup==<br /> A complete materials and sources list is at the end of this article.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Extension Rods and Antenna===<br /> To make the aluminum extension rods you need a 3 foot piece of aluminum rod. Cut the rod into 3 pieces, 2 of them will be 17 inches long and the third piece will be the remaining 2 inches.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take a 21/64 inch drill bit and drill about 1.5 inches into both ends of the 17 inch rods. Be careful to drill straight. Once this is done tap threads into both ends with a 3/8-24 tap. Tapping threads into aluminum generates a tremendous amount of head so remember to tap slowly and use an oil lubricant. Right after tapping these rods I bumped one of them with my arm and got a very nasty burn.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the tapping is done thread a 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud into both ends of the rods. Then, for each rod, put a 3/8-24 jam nut over the stud on one end and put a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut over the stud on the other end. When you are done it should look like the picture below.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> This section deals with constructing the antenna if you chose not to buy an AT-271 antenna:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now grab the remaining 2 inch piece of aluminum rod. Drill one end 1 inch deep with a size F (.2443 inch) bit then drill the other end 1 inch deep with the 21/64 inch drill bit you used for the other rods. Tap 5/16-18 threads into the size F end and 3/8-24 threads into the 21/64 end.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take the aluminum antenna, remove the lanyard string, push in the lower release spring button and shove it up the tube a couple inches, and tap the bottom for 5/16-18 threads. The two photos below show the start and finish of tapping the threads. I seriously do not recommend using vise-grips as shown in the photos. The antenna deforms very easily. It would be much better to lightly use a vise which can distribute the grip better with much less crush force. Again, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CRUSH OR DEFORM THE TUBE. I darn near destroyed the prototype using vise-grips.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Next we take a 1.5 inch 5/16-18 stud and thread half of it into the antenna. This is generally difficult to do so I recommend tightening two 5/16-18 nuts against each other onto the stud and use the outer nut with a wrench. Once the stud is threaded into the antenna you can thread the 2 inch aluminum rod onto the stud, then thread a 3/8-24 stud into the other end of the rod. Put a 3/8-24 jam nut onto the exposed threads. What you have done here is built a 5/16-18 to 3/8-24 thread adapter. The photo below shows what the finished product should look like.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rod_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The next step is to modify the antenna to make it conductive. The anodized surfaces do not conduct electricity so you need to take some sandpaper and sand out the inside of the bottom of each rod (about 3/4 inch should do). Another issue is the tapered inserts which are crimped into the top of the rods. These don't conduct either so you need to lightly bond them with an arc weld. This should be done with a MIG or TIG welder. Remember to sand the surfaces first, including the entire tapered section. I cheesed mine by using two truck batteries, a pair of jumper cables, and some real thin aluminum wire. Some people refer to this as hillbilly arc welding. Please don't do this unless you know the risks, know what you are doing, and you are using appropriate eye protection. Verify the end to end continuity of the antenna with an ohmmeter when you are done. Here is what mine looked like when it was done.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_hillbilly_weld.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The final step is to flatten out the pointed tip of the antenna rod. You can do this with a grinder or file.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Coil===<br /> The coil is made from a 7 3/4 inch piece of 4 inch diameter drainpipe with a drainpipe cap on each end. To make room for more coil turns we cut 1 3/8 inch off the end of the drainpipe cap. You need to cut two end caps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Locate the center of each cap, tap the center with a center punch or nail, drill a 1/8&quot; pilot hole, then drill in again with a 3/8&quot; bit.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now we take a piece of 1/4 inch schedule 80 pvc pipe and drill/tap it for 3/8-24 threads the same way you did the aluminum rods (except please don't use lubricating oil). Its important to use schedule 80 pipe as it has the correct inside diameter for tapping threads. The pipe should be about 7 1/2 inches long and later you might have to make some slight length adjustments for fit. Once your threads are tapped you can thread a 1.5 inch 3/8-24 stud into each end then put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer over the end (see photo below). Put one end into an end cap, put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer on the outside of the end cap, stack one 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal on top of the washer, and secure it with a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut stacked on top of the ring terminal.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Put the other end cap on. On the outside stack a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer, a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal, and a 3/8-24 jam nut.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to cover up any holes in the drainpipe with a square of duct tape.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To make the coil, glue 4 pieces of .065 Nylon Edge Trim as shown in the photo (credit to Phil AD5X for finding this edge trim). When cutting them to length, remember to offset each one to correctly accommodate a spirally-wound coil. Once this is done, drill a .065&quot; diagonal hole from the edge of the cap through the top of each cap (see photo), thread the wire through the hole and wind the coil with .064&quot; (14AWG) tin coated copper wire. Remember to keep tension on the coil or else it will wind loosely. The wire is stiff and doesn't come off the coil perfectly so there will be some manual coil alignment/straightening to do after the coil is wound. Once the coil is wound, put the ends thorough the 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminals, then cut &amp; solder. Be careful of heat damage to the plastic while soldering. Its usually best to loosen the end nuts prior to soldering as it will conduct less heat away from the ring terminals.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_end.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The coil tap is an EZ-Hook XM attached to a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal with an 11 inch piece of 22-gauge 7-strand insulated hookup wire. Attach the ring terminal above the coil ring terminal as shown in the photo.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_tap.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The EZ-Hook XM works great for 17AWG wire however its a little small for our 14AWG coil. The hook can be slightly adjusted with needlenose pliers to fit the 14AWG wire. The picture below shows the modified hook profile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ezhook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As built, the coil specs out like this: 7&quot; length, 4.25&quot; dia, 50 turns, 14ga .063 (spaced) = 129uH&lt;br&gt;<br /> Its a little overkill on the size &amp; inductance but it gives a lot of flexibility with short antennas.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Balun===<br /> The balun is based on a design by WB6ZQZ. His design appears to be a bifilar current balun in series with a quadrifilar voltage balun. We are only interested in the quadrifilar transformer because we will be using an external ferrite choke on the feedline (which allows us to use the choke for antenna configurations that don't use the voltage balun). Here is a link to instructions on how to wind the quadrifilar transformer:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> http://www.antennalaunchers.com/trb/photos.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Use 16ga enameled wire and a F-125-K toroid. Once the transformer is wound you can mount it on a small piece of plastic with holes drilled for the wires. Attach the wires to each other as per his schematic diagram and PC board photos.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mount the completed toroid into a 3x2x1 inch Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box. Install an SO-239 connector into the bottom of the box. For terminals I used (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts/nuts/wingnuts which are available at a home-improvement store. Label the terminals for Common, 50, 25, and 12 ohms. Attach a short piece of velcro to the back side which allows for mounting.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Antenna Mount &amp; Wire Spools===<br /> The antenna mount uses 1/4-20 hardware. I recommend replacing two of the nuts with wingnuts. Cut an 11 foot piece of Belden 8219 RG58A/U and loop it twice through two Laird LFB187102 ferrites as shown in the photo below. The coax fits tightly and we do not want to stretch it while pulling it through the ferrites so use a non-petroleum lubricant (I used cooking spray). Once this is done you can put UG-175/U reducers on the cable and solder a PL259 connector on each end.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_choke.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is spooled on a (2) Coleman 827E140T colthesline reels (thanks to Richard WA6KYR for finding these). Each Coleman reel comes with 21 feet of nylon cord. Pull all the cord out and cut off 13 feet so there is 8 feet remaining on the spool. Attach 59 1/2 feet of 22AWG insulated hookup wire to the end of the nylon cord. You can do this by stripping the end of the wire and pushing it through the middle of the nylon cord about 1/2 inch from the end, then secure the end of the nylon cord by lightly melting it with a lighter or soldering iron. Now you can reel in the wire. If it gets stuck you can open the reel with a 1/3 turn of the enclosure shell. Attach a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal to the end of the wire.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you are wondering why we use 59 1/2 feet it is because its the only length available that is reasonably close for loading at 75-80m and is not an even 1/2-wavelength multiple of any amateur band from 6m-40m (in fact we can go +/- 3 feet before bumping into one of these multiples. You should be able to roll this out to full length and tune any amateur band from 80m-6m. It also makes a good antenna to use with ALE and our RF-sensing tuner.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Battery===<br /> Each battery pack is made of (4) 40160S LiFePO4 cells (3.2V 16Ah) with a battery management circuit put into a Huggies wipe box.<br /> The battery management circuit sits on top of a plastic board which is an Akro-Mils 40150 (3.3 x 7.7 x 0.1 inch). Mount the batteries in the plastic holders, wire them in series with the bus bars, mount the battery management circuit, then wire it in. I recommend using a 30 amp fuse as pictured. Once this is done attach a 30A (12-14AWG) Powerpole connector with 12-gauge wire. The battery management circuit will charge the battery up to 14.2v before it automatically cuts off. The charger should be at least 14.6v.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each 40160S cell is rated at 3.65V (Max Charge), 3.2V (Nominal), and 2.0V (Discharge cut off).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Max charge current is 5C (80A) and max discharge current is 10C (160A).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cell life is rated at 2000 charge/discharge cycles under normal use.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete battery pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Data Interface===<br /> The data interface consists of audio isolation transformers, an RS232 level converter, and a PTT transistor. The audio circuit is per the &quot;KK7UQ Interface Model II&quot; circuit although I chose not to use the potentiometers and solid state relay in the original design. The original design and documentation can be found here:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://kk7uq.com/html/download/Manual2E.pdf<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The RS232 level converter is per a circuit attributed to OE1RIB.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I decided not to go with the Yaseu CT62 cable because I wanted the ability to use the DTR line for PTT (which is much cleaner for automated CW than keying with serial commands). Don't get me wrong here, I prefer a key, however flexibility was one of the design goals. I modified the level converter circuit to take power from the radio rather than trying to rob it from DTR/CTS with diodes. There is also a DPDT toggle switch on the back of the data interface which is an &quot;OFF&quot; switch (cuts the power from the radio and cuts the PTT line). I looked at off-the-shelf interfaces and most of them were either too big or required power for the audio circuitry.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Use a USB-serial converter if your computer doesn't have a serial port. I recommend using converters with the FTDI chipset for best performance and OS compatibility (I used USBG-RS232-F12 from usbgear.com).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the actual circuit I used to build the data interface:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to leave clearance for the jacks and switches when laying out the components on the PC board.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Velcro attachment<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Mounted to radio<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To connect the interface box to the radio I used a short piece of cat5 network cable wired like this&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT RD W-Br&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT TD W-G&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT + Br-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT GND G-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Data Out12 O-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data In W-Bl&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data PTT W-O&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data GND Bl-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The mini-din connectors go in very tight so beware of non-functioning or partial connections when you do this. Once you get them seated properly they work great and stay in place. Make sure to notch the back of the connector sleeves so the cables can exit at 90 degrees. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In the above photo you will also notice a connector/adapter contraption covered with electrical tape. These UHF right-angle adapters were used because the radio rests on its back side in the pack and we don't want the weight of the radio sitting on a PL259 connector and pinching the coax. All UHF right-angle adapters are not created equal. Most of them are garbage and use a small internal spring to connect the center conductor. The correct part to use is Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U. The adapter connecting the radio to the tuner is two of the Amphenol right-angle adapters connected with a short piece of LMR-600 with the center conductor diameter ground down from 0.176&quot; to 0.157&quot;. The length of the LMR600 and the mounting position of the tuner are critical because you don't want to obstruct the ports on the rear of the radio. As you can see in the photo below, this arrangement makes the back of the radio very compact which helps it fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_back.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Power Wiring===<br /> On the power supply you can add a third powerpole connector which is jumped to ground. When the third connector is also done on the radio side (connected to the radio brown wire) it forces the radio to 20W when plugged into the supply. This is good because our power supply is only good for 7.5 amps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The power cable is 24 inches of 12-gauge red/black zipcord with a third wire for sensing low-power mode. Additionally it has a 16 inch length of zipcord for the tuner with a 2.5x5.5mm right-angle connector. As with the OEM cable, the 12-gauge cable splits off into two 14-gauge cables at the connector. You will notice that there are no fuses on this cable. I didn't bother because all my power sources for the pack are fused. In hindsight it would be prudent to put 30A fuses on both the positive and negative wires.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Third Powerpole connector for low power sense.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Connector end detail<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Monopod===<br /> The monopod is used to elevate the feedpoint of the dipole or a short vertical antenna. It is carbon fiber, weighs only 19oz, and extends to 68&quot;.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The monopod needs to be shortened to fit into the pack. Going around the perimeter of the small end rod, cut off the bottom half of the top rubber cap. This will allow the rod to collapse about an additional 1/2 inch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The bottom cap can be removed by pushing in the two roll pins with a small center punch. Then, with the rod fully collapsed, you will see there is about 13/16 inch you can saw off the big end without hitting the smaller rods that collapse inside of it. The photo below shows it after the cut.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Radio setup===<br /> Here is how I set mine up&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 7.000mhz<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to on.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 19&quot; (CAT Rate). Set it to 9600.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 29&quot; (CW Sidetone). Set it to 5.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 38&quot; (Dig Mode). Set it to PSK31-U.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 59&quot; (Mic Sel). Set it to RMT if you are using the MH-59A8J mic.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 86&quot; (TX IF Filter). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 2.3<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 50.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 144.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 20.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 446.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 10.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Enable 2.3kc filter for TX:<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push FUNC, rotate select to N, press 2.3 (above B key)<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ==Usage==<br /> The most basic setup is pulling the aluminum pack handle up one notch and attaching the mount/antenna. This can be used for a quick base setup or walking around with the pack on your back. The photo below shows the mount and 2m/70cm whip installed. If you want a somewhat useful counterpoise for 6m/2m/70cm without attaching the counterpoise wire, simply invert the feedline such that the chokes are by the radio instead of by the antenna. This way you can use the coax itself for a counterpoise. Its certainly not the best way to do it but it will work.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each aluminum rod is 18&quot; and you can use one of them by itself for a 2m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rods2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you use both rods with the 2m/70cm whip on top you will have a 6m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> You can use the monopod to elevate the a 6m/2m/70cm antenna. We use the carpal tunnel wrist strap to attach the monopod to the packs aluminum handle. The next photo looks like the leaning tower of Pisa because my first prototype was done with a medium-sized wrist strap. I have since moved to a small-sized strap which makes it stand much straighter. The monopod is good for 6m/2m/70cm verticals and for holding the feedpoint of a dipole. Do not use the monopod with the 8-foot antenna rod and/or the large loading coil as it gets too topheavy to remain stable. The following photo shows the ground radials installed and the choke ferrite near the antenna feedpoint. For a simpler setup you can skip the ground radials and invert the feedline (so the choke ferrites are near the radio) which will make the feedline act as a counterpoise. Yes I know this was said earlier in the article but its worth repeating.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_8.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Detail of antenna mount attached to the monopod pole<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_9.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The collapsible antenna by itself will work as a quarter-wave on 10m (pictured below) and should also tune up ok on 12m. It will work as a quarter-wave on 15m if you add the two aluminum extension rods.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Attaching the coil (tapped on the lowest turn) to the antenna base with the two aluminum rods above it will tune down to 80m. This configuration will have near zero efficiency however it will allow short-range communication on 75/80m while walking around with the pack on your back.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The best vertical configuration for 80m thru 17m is attaching the two rods to the base, putting the coil on top of the rods, then putting the collapsible aluminum antenna rod on top. It is best to tilt the pack over on its wheels and assemble the antenna on the ground.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once its assembled, tilt it up by lifting the aluminum arm on the pack. The weight of the batteries do a good job of keeping the antenna in place.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you want to try 160 meters you can remove the 8 foot whip and connect one of the 59-foot wire spools to the top of the coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a dipole configuration you can strap the balun to the top of the monopod and connect our spools of wire to it. Dipoles work best when they are at least 1/4 wave above the ground. Our feedpoint impedance will typically be much less than 50 ohms because in most cases we will be less than 1/4 wave off the ground. This will be especially noticeable on 40m/80m. Attach one wire to the &quot;C&quot; (common) balun terminal and attach the other wire to either the 12, 25, or 50 ohm terminal depending on which one works best. The wire spools use 3/8 ring terminals so we can optionally connect them directly to the vertical antenna mount if you want to feed a dipole directly without the balun.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One other important thing to note about dipoles is its best to keep the ends up off the ground. There is 8 feet of nylon rope at the end of the spools which can help in getting your wire somewhere it can be secured. In my pack I also keep short plastic tent stakes and short bungee cords which can help in some situations.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_10.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> There are a few other odds &amp; ends I keep in the pack. The PL-259 center to ring terminal adapter is for using the voltage balun with the vertical antenna. The Powerpole &quot;Y&quot; cable is for running the AC adapter or solar charger while using the radio. The short 3/8-24 bolt is for attaching a dipole wire directly to the antenna mount or to the top of the coil. There are also two 8-foot stereo cables for the data adapter and a 10-foot serial cable (not pictured). (I chose 8-10' cables to keep the computer RF a little ways away from the radio/antenna). At the bottom is the usb/serial adapter and on the bottom right are short velcro cable ties for attaching the feedline to the monopole and/or aluminum pack handle.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_misc.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is how it all fits into the pack<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_11.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete pack with both batteries and the computer weighs 35 lbs.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The weight can be substantially reduced by removing the spare battery, AC adapter, computer (if you don't need it), and any antenna parts you don't plan on using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In case you are wondering where the CW key/paddles are, I'm still working on finding a solution that works well with this portable setup.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Two that have been recommended are the mini paddle from milestone technologies and the traveler light from begali.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ==Parts &amp; Prices==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> $799 FT857D w/YSK857<br /> $95 TCXO-9<br /> $82 MH-59A8J DTMF mic (also needed for direct freq entry)<br /> <br /> $120 W4RT2.3khz ssb filter<br /> $169 Z-11pro2<br /> <br /> $14 IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter (ebay)<br /> $2 bridge rectifier KBPC5010 (ebay)<br /> <br /> $144 (8) 16ah 40160s lifepo4 $24/ea (bmsbattery.com or manzanitamicro.com)<br /> $3 (8) 40160S battery holders 0.40/ea<br /> $4 (8) 40160S bus bar connectors 0.50/ea<br /> $80 battery shipping<br /> <br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> <br /> $97 (2) 30A Battery Management PCB http://www.batteryspace.com/pcbprotectioncircuitmodulefor4cells128vlifepo4batterypackat30alimited.aspx<br /> <br /> $11 USB to serial converter http://www.usbgear.com/computer_cable_details.cfm?sku=USBG-RS232-F12&amp;cats=199&amp;catid=482%2C199%2C601%2C461<br /> <br /> $8 3/8X24 Thread Mirror Mount: Wilson 901104<br /> $5 (20') Belden 8219 (RG58A/U) <br /> $3 (4) Amphenol 83-185-RFX (UG-175 reducer)<br /> $20 (4) Amphenol 83-822 (PL259)<br /> $10 shipping (theantennafarm.com)<br /> <br /> $79 Jansport Driver 8 TN89-008 UPC 757969203361 Wheeled Backpack (buy.com)<br /> <br /> $6 dual-band (2/440) whip with 3/8x24 mount (hamstick EDBW-1, Opek DB-1, or Workman DB-1) <br /> $4 (2) CONXPARTSA Kenwood KW2000 (Parts A)<br /> $3 (6 feet) Red &amp; Black DC wire 12 GA<br /> $9 shipping (k1cra.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (3') LMR-600 (showmecables.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 nuts (7/16&quot; head)<br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts<br /> $2 (8) 1/4&quot;-20 wingnuts<br /> $9 (10') 4&quot; drainpipe (we need one 7 3/4&quot; piece)<br /> $4 (2) 4&quot; drainpipe cap (home depot)<br /> <br /> $20 (5) littelfuse FHA30 12AWG inline fuse holder<br /> $3 (1) 5-pack of ATO 7.5 fuse (drillspot.com)<br /> <br /> $3 4' 14 gauge cable (for short part of radio power connector) (.62/ft)<br /> $1 4' 18 gauge cable (for battery sense +/- to pcb, low power wire on power cable) (.31/ft)<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (22-18) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $4 (1) 1/4&quot; (16-14) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (12-10) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $10 shipping (parts-express.com)<br /> <br /> (1) DB9F mouser 156-1309 0.80<br /> (4) BC546A mouser 512-BC546A 0.10<br /> (2) 5.6k 1/4w mouser 588-OD562JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (3) 10k 1/4w mouser 588-OD103JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (1) 3.5mm 3-pin plug (cw) (2 wires used) mouser 568-NYS231BG 1.69 (for cw jack)<br /> (1) 8-pin mini-din (cat) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2608 1.49<br /> (1) 6-pin mini-din (data) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2606 1.36<br /> (2) 600ohm 1:1 transformer mouser 42TL016-RC 1.66<br /> (2) 51 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD510JE 0.42<br /> (1) 1uf cap mouser 5989-100V1.0-F 0.71<br /> (1) .0047uf cap mouser 140-50P5-472K-RC 50v ceramic disc 0.12<br /> (1) 100 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD101JE 0.42 carbon comp 5%<br /> (1) 1k 1/4w mouser 588-OD102JE 0.42<br /> (1) board mouser 854-PR1593K $4.10 2.6 x 2.6<br /> (1) box mouser 546-1593KBK $2.88 (box is 2.6 x 2.6 x 1.1)<br /> (2) 2.2k resistor 1/2w carbon comp 5% mouser 588-OF222JE (1/4w mouser 588-OD222JE 0.42 not avail)<br /> (4) PL259 right angle Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U Mouser 523-83-1AP $14.70/ea<br /> (1) 2.5x5.5mm right angle plug (24AWG) power plug for tuner mouser 171-3216-EX $1.04/ea<br /> (2) ferrites - mouser 875-LFB187102-000 3.03/ea 3/4&quot; OD .400&quot; ID 1.125&quot; long (3 turns RG58 = 1000 ohm impedance @ 1-5mhz)<br /> (2) mouser 526-WH22-00-100 100' 22awg copper 7-strand hookup wire black nteinc.com $19 (use p/n 03-100 for orange) insulation OD 0.060&quot;<br /> (2) 3.5mm stereo jacks 502-35RAPC3BV4 2.73<br /> $112 total<br /> $12 shipping (mouser.com)<br /> <br /> $8 (1) 14-pack 3/8 ring terminal 16-14AWG (JT&amp;T 2011H - amazon.com)<br /> $18 (2) 8ft 3.5mm stereo cables (mediabridge - amazon.com)<br /> $3 21/64 (.3281&quot;) drill bit for 3/8-24 threads (amazon.com)<br /> $28 3' Aluminum 6061-T6 Seamless Round Tubing, WW-T 700/6, 1/2&quot; OD, 1/4&quot; ID, 1/8&quot; Wall, 36&quot; Length (amazon.com)<br /> $65 Opteka CFM300 68&quot; 5 Section 8x Carbon Fiber Monopod (amazon.com)<br /> $209 (1) PowerFilm F15-1200 20W solar panel 10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6 1 lb (amazon.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (4) EZ-Hook XM (digi-key 461-1004-ND)<br /> <br /> $2 Akro-Mils plastic dividers (Akro-Mils 40150 wasserstrom.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (8) 3/8-24 Jam Nuts 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (2) 3/8-24 Hex Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $10 (5) 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (10) 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer 316 Stainless Steel<br /> $7 shipping (fastener-warehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $7 (5') 1/4&quot; schedule 80 PVC pipe (usplastic.com)<br /> <br /> $14 (2) coleman 827E140T colthesline reel (coleman.com)<br /> <br /> $58 AT-271A/PRC antenna (ebay) OR $58 Voile Tourlight Avalanche Probe (8 foot) (voile-usa.com)<br /> <br /> $2 (2) 6&quot; tent stakes (rei.com)<br /> $2 (1) 4-pack of 10&quot; bungee cords (rei.com)<br /> $8 tax/shipping (rei.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) F-125-K Toroid Core 1.25&quot; 250-300 permeability low loss ferrite 1-30 mhz (theaudioguru.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (1) 1/4 lb Wire, 16ga (0.05&quot;) enameled (we need 4 feet for toroid) (allspectrum.com or jameco.com)<br /> <br /> $20 (1) 79-87283 DonJoy COMFORTFORM WRIST support-Small right (expressorthopedics.com - warning, it takes them a month to ship it)<br /> <br /> $8 Cables To Go 52030 - 6ft DB9 M/F All Lines Extension Cable Black (nextwarehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) 85085K8 25-pack nylon edge trim .065 gap width 3/16 opening, 15/64 height, 12 3/4 long<br /> $23 (1) 8871K71 80' (1 lb) spool .064&quot; (14ga) tin coated copper wire (spool says Arcor 14AWG)<br /> $2 (1) 91187A202 1.5&quot; 5/16-18 RHT stainless stud (or you can order a 10-pack for $4.55 with part number 95412A587)<br /> $10 (2) 95412A659 5-pack of 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud<br /> $9 tax/shipping (mcmaster.com)<br /> <br /> ==========<br /> $2518 approximate cost<br /> <br /> <br /> $? (1) stickyback velcro (attach tuner to radio mount)<br /> <br /> $? (1) velcro wire ties (attach coax to antenna mast)<br /> <br /> $? (1) 3/8-24 tap<br /> $? (1) 5/16-18 tap<br /> $? (1) Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box (for balun) 3x2x1&quot;<br /> <br /> $? (4) 30A (12-14AWG) red/black powerpole connector (1 for radio, 2 for batteries, 1 for AC/DC power supply)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;</div> Mon, 07 Oct 2013 00:02:10 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:W7KI_Manpack_Radio http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/W7KI_Manpack_Radio <p>Rich:&#32;/* The Antenna */</p> <hr /> <div>[[File:FT857_and_tuner_in_pack.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;This article details how I set up a HF/VHF/UHF manpack radio.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> ==Overview==<br /> ===Design goals===<br /> Radio RF Output:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Minimum of 20W, preferable to have optional 50W+ available if needed<br /> Radio Frequency coverage:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : HF, 6 meters, 2 meters, and 70cm<br /> Radio Modes:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : FM/SSB/CW/PSK<br /> Radio receive current:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : preferably less than 700mA<br /> Tuner:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : 10-500ohm minimum, preferable little to no idle current<br /> Battery:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : sufficient to handle a weekend without recharging<br /> Power:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Battery, AC, or solar&lt;br&gt;<br /> Antenna:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Vertical or dipole with optional voltage balun<br /> PC:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Small netbook capable of digital modes<br /> Size:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Everything fits within a pack suitable for airplane carry-on (21x14x10&quot;).<br /> All items:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : Weight as minimal as possible !<br /> Cost:&lt;br&gt;<br /> : $2500 neighborhood<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Radio===<br /> Here is a quick rundown of the radios I considered:&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Military radios==== <br /> : I looked at the PRC-104, PRC-132, PRC-138, PRC-320, PRC-1099, PRC-2000, and AEG SE-6861.<br /> : All of them are good radios. Only problem is I want HF/6/2/440 so I'm stuck<br /> : with looking at amateur radios.<br /> <br /> ====Vertex VX-1210====<br /> : This is a commercial radio ($1400+, 7.1lb w/batt, rx: 500mA, tx: 3A/5W, 5A/20W)<br /> : Very tempting but is HF only. Has option for internal autotuner and can be<br /> : set up for VFO operation. Battery is 14.4v 4AH.<br /> <br /> ====Mobat Micom 3 Pathfinder====<br /> : This is a 25W commercial radio. Excessive cost for this project. Otherwise a great radio !<br /> <br /> ====Outback radios (QMAC, Barrett, Codan)====<br /> : QMAC HF90 excessive cost &amp; no longer made, Barrett 940 too heavy (18.5lbs w/tuner battery)<br /> : Barrett 2040, Codan 2110 excessive cost.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-817ND====<br /> : Portable amateur radio ($600, 2.6lb, 8-16v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 2A/5W)<br /> : Tempting, and would pair nicely with LDG Z-817 tuner.<br /> : Only problem is I want 20W+. This could be accomplished with a Tokyo High Power HL-45B<br /> : amp ($400, 3.4 lbs, 8.5A/45W, 160-6m) + LDG Z-817H tuner.<br /> : This is a viable combination and has the benefit of low RX current.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC703+====<br /> : Amateur radio (discontinued, 4.4lb, 9-15.8v, rx: 300-500mA, tx: 3A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Nice radio, big and easily readable display, built in autotuner. Wish it did 2m/440<br /> : like its bigger brother (IC-706).<br /> <br /> ====Elecraft KX3====<br /> : Portable amateur radio (new to market, 1.5lb, 8-14v(?), rx: 150-???mA, tx: ?A/10W, HF+6M)<br /> : Great display and control layout located on what would normally be considered the &quot;top&quot;<br /> : of the radio which gives ample room compared to other radios. Built in autotuner. CW paddles<br /> : right on front of the radio. I would have liked to see a little more than 10W however its<br /> : certainly a reasonable and usable amount of power (and better than 5W). Has option for <br /> : an external KXPA100 100W amp and KXAT100 tuner. Overall it is an exciting product and I <br /> : probably would have bought one if I wasn't looking to have 2m/440 in the same radio.<br /> : I don't know if it supports CTCSS for 10m FM repeaters and CTCSS/DCS for 6m FM repeaters.<br /> <br /> ====Icom IC706MK2G====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 5.5lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1800-2000mA, tx: 20A/100W)<br /> : RX current way too high, VHF frontend easily overloads. Nice display as with the IC703<br /> : above. The RX current is a deal breaker for battery ops. <br /> <br /> ====Icom IC7000====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($1200, 5.1lb, 11.8-15.8v, rx: 1300-1600mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : Nice radio. RX current better than IC706 but still a little on the high side for battery ops.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-897D====<br /> : Mobile/portable amateur radio ($900, 8.6lb, 11.7-15.9v, rx: 600-1000mA, tx: 22A/100W)<br /> : HF/50 MHz:5 watts = 4.0-4.7 amps 10 watts = 5.3-6.4 amps 25 watts = 7.3-9.2 amps 50 watts = 10.6-12.9 amps<br /> : 144 MHz: 5 watts = 3.4 amps 10 watts = 4.2 amps 25 watts = 6.3 amps 50 watts = 9.4 amps<br /> : 420 MHz: 5 watts = 4.2 amps 10 watts = 5.6 amps 20 watts = 8.7 amps<br /> :<br /> : Designed for field ops and has room for internal batteries (13.2v, 9AH) however the batteries<br /> : add an additional 6.5lbs to a radio which is already heavy at 8.6lbs. One option is to run your<br /> : own external battery which gives you room to install an internal 120V power supply. Overall<br /> : I really like this radio but its ruggedness will cost you in weight. You can get the FT-857D<br /> : (sacrificing the 897's rugged case and internal battery space) and save 4lbs on your back.<br /> <br /> ====Yaesu FT-857D====<br /> : Mobile amateur radio ($800, 4.6lb, 12.4-15.2v,<br /> : rx: 600-1000mA (spec) 650-700mA (green/red backlight) 590mA (backlight off)<br /> : tx: 2A/5W 5A/15W 22A/100W)<br /> : Unlike the FT-897D above, this radio does not come with a TCXO. By the time you spend $100 on<br /> : the TCXO you end up with about the same radio as the FT-897D for the same price. Comparing the<br /> : FT-857D to the FT-897D has some pluses: 4lbs lighter, detachable head, and easier to mount mobile.<br /> : The minuses are we don't get the rugged case and battery space. I don't think either of these<br /> : minuses will matter as the radio and batteries will end up in a pack. One other thing to note is<br /> : both the 857 and 897 will automatically limit the radio to 20W when running on battery power<br /> : (by grounding the brown wire on the power connector).<br /> : Spec says voltage is 12.4-15.2, manual says 11.73-15.87.<br /> : The 857's signal will start sounding bad at about 11.75v.<br /> <br /> Given everything above it came down to deciding between the FT-857D and FT-897D.&lt;br&gt;<br /> I chose the FT-857D because its 4lbs lighter than the FT-897D. Every pound counts when backpacking !&lt;br&gt;<br /> The radio is best equipped with: tcxo-9, keypad mic, (2) W4RT/inrad.net filters.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Tuner===<br /> For honorable mention we have the long-discontinued Kenwood AT-130 which is a very small 80-10m(+WARC)&lt;br&gt;<br /> manual tuner (6 x 2.4 x 6.3 inches, 3.5 lbs.). For field ops I prefer a small autotuner. Yaesu makes the&lt;br&gt;<br /> FC-30 ($170, 17-150 ohms, 3.1 x 1.8 x 10.2 in, 2.2 lbs) however its 17-150 ohm tuning range is quite&lt;br&gt;<br /> narrow compared to the LDG product line.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the breakdown of the LDG products I looked at:&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> : $200 LDG YT-100 (latching relays) for 857/897 100w = 1.5lbs 4-800 ohm 7 x 7 x 2 <br /> : $200 LDG AT-897+(latching relays) for 857/897 100w = 2.0lbs 6-800 ohm 11.5 x 3.25 x 1.5<br /> : $160 Z100+ ? 125w 6-800 ohm 5.5 x 5.5 x 1.5 1 lb w/o batts<br /> : $170 Z11pro2 6-1000 ohm 7.7 x 5.0 x 1.5 1.5lb w/o batts<br /> &lt;br&gt; <br /> I ended up going with the Z11pro2 as it can autotune based on RF sense which keeps the CAT and ACC ports free. This is good because we&lt;br&gt;<br /> need both ports for our data interface. Another bonus of RF sense tuning is it makes the radio PC-ALE capable provided the antenna is&lt;br&gt;<br /> tunable on whatever ALE frequencies are to be used.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device on the left is the data/soundcard interface&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[File:FT857_and_tuner.jpg]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Battery===<br /> The following text describes how to build a battery pack. If you do not want to build this battery pack then you can buy one already built. For example you can look up &quot;ZIPPY Flightmax 8400mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack&quot; which currently sells for about $75. You will need to find a suitable charger for it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> I initially considered using 11 Accupower NiMH low-discharge &quot;D&quot; cells (10aH, 1.25v, 145g ea.)&lt;br&gt;<br /> This would give us 13.75v, 10aH at 3.5lb for about $110.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After more research I went with (8) 40160S LiFePO4 batteries (16AH/ea). This project really only needs 4 of these<br /> batteries however I opted to build two battery packs. 4 of these batteries in series gives you around 13 volts.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The 40160S 16AH battery is no longer being sold. The manufacturer has replaced it with the 40152S 15AH battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Paired with each battery pack is a circuit which protects from overcharge/overdischarge/overcurrent. It also keeps the batteries balanced<br /> while charging. After a long search for a suitable lightweight container I found the 4-battery pack fits perfectly into a &quot;Huggies&quot;<br /> baby wipe plastic box. I cut a small slot in the box for a short piece of velcro which holds the lid closed. The complete pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If you intend on taking your backpack radio on a commercial aircraft, keep in mind there are restrictions on high capacity lithium ion batteries. If you believe this will be a problem you can build a pack from 11 NiMH D cells or use a pre-made NiMH RC pack. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Notice the top door works great for the powerpole.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is a view of the internals. The protection circuit board is on the top.<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The AC adapter/charger===<br /> I wanted enough beef for the radio to do 20W off the adapter. I ended up getting IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter<br /> for about $14 off ebay. It is relatively small and weighs 0.4 lb. I run it through a bridge rectifier which reduces the voltage to 14.8V which is suitable for operating the radio and charging the battery pack. Of course running DC through a bridge rectifier only uses two of the four diodes however it was an inexpensive solution which is much easier than standalone diodes to mount to the cable/fuse.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I found that the battery pack can draw up to 8A during charging so I used a 10A fuse on the power supply. Yes, I know the power supply is only rated at 7.5A and putting a 10A fuse on it is not good practice. So far it hasn't been a problem. During charging the bridge rectifier can get quite hot so make sure it is on a non-flammable surface. The obvious solution to all this would be a series current limiting resistor which is something I'll look into when I get the time.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> For now I am charging the battery pack with a small smart charger (Noco Genius G3500) which is set for a standard 12V battery at a 3.5A charge rate. It just so happens that its output voltage on this setting is just right for charging the LiFePO4 battery. The Noco Genius is a handy little charger as it is also good for charging and topping off car batteries, AGM batteries, 12V 7AH brick batteries, etc. and it will float the batteries without overcharging them. Another nice thing about this charger is its small enough to fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ac_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Solar Panel===<br /> PowerFilm F15-1200 20W (10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6&quot; 1 lb )&lt;br&gt;<br /> Nice compact and light panel but a little pricey at $10/watt. I would have gone with their 30W panel but it was even more overpriced.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the solar panel<br /> [[File:W7ki_solar_panel.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Computer===<br /> EEEPC 1000h. Small battery-efficient netbook with 10&quot; screen. Used it because I had it on hand. Any netbook would probably do ok so<br /> long as it has mic/headphone jacks. One bonus of this particular computer is you can feed it 12VDC direct.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Here is the computer<br /> [[File:W7ki_netbook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Data Interface===<br /> Homemade. Nothing fancy, just some audio isolation transformers, a level converter, and a PTT transistor.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The data interface and the tuner are attached to the mobile mounting bracket with velcro. Note how the mobile bracket is angled such that the front of the tuner is slightly elevated. This was done to give some clearance to the radio speaker and also helps to direct the audio out of the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_data_interface1.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===The Antenna===<br /> I looked at a variety of compact antennas (Outbacker Joey, Outbacker Stealth Plus, ATX-W38 walkabout, ATX-DHP, and a handful<br /> of others). It was difficult to find anything that would collapse to under 18 inches (requirement for the pack I'm using). It was probably just as well<br /> since many &quot;portable&quot; antennas are helical which I personally despise.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My original intent was to buy a &quot;Buddi&quot; product and evaluate how it worked in a vertical configuration. The only issue was whether their 80 meter coil would fit in the pack. I emailed them multiple times asking the dimensions of the coil but unfortunately all of my emails were ignored. This probably speaks volumes as to how they handle issues after a sale so I thought it best not to do business with them until their customer communication improves.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Of all the pre-made antennas I found The SuperAntenna MP1B SuperStick would likely be the best off the shelf solution as it collapses to 12 inches and weighs under 2 pounds. When I first wrote this article their company had no products available which I believe was due to a transition in ownership. Their products are now available again and I plan on trying one out. I would buy the MP1B antenna, TM1 mount, and optionally MC60 coil for 60 meters and MC80 coil for 80 meters. A properly adjusted SuperAntenna requires no tuner however you need to use a correct length ground radial. This is my recommendation if you do not want to build an antenna. The text past this point describes how to build an antenna/coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I ended up using a military AT271-A/PRC antenna. It is a 7 section antenna with a 3/8-24 base that extends to 113.5 inches and collapses to 17 inches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> It has an optional 8 inch spring (AB-129/PR) which I am not currently using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:At271a.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As an alternative I found an 8.5' collapsible aluminum pole made for measuring snowpacks and after some tinkering it worked like a charm.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pole_antenna.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Either of these antennas is very usable on HF when paired with a couple of 18&quot; aluminum extender rods and a large tapped coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_big_coil.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> Obviously running a huge coil with a short antenna is about as worthless as a short helical so its important to remember to use as much whip or longwire as you can if you<br /> are less than 1/4 wave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a horizontal option I built a tapped voltage balun which attaches to a vertical extension arm and connects to two spools of wire.<br /> [[File:W7ki_horiz_setup.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;The wire spools can also be used as a counterpoise for vertical configurations.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the bottom is a carbon fiber camera monopod which we use as a vertical extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The device at the top is a carpal tunnel wrist strap which is used for attaching the monopod extension arm to the pack aluminum extension arm.&lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is wound on Coleman camping clothesline spools.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Another HF antenna option is to build the St. Louis Vertical: http://www.amqrp.org/projects/stluisvert/STLV%20Project.html&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For VHF/UHF I have a 17&quot; dual-band antenna. For VHF only you can also put one of the 18&quot; aluminum rods onto the 1&quot; antenna mount.&lt;br&gt;<br /> 6 meters can be done with the 17&quot; antenna on top of both 18&quot; rods.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Pack===<br /> I looked at dozens of packs before settling on the Jansport Driver 8. Most other packs were either oversized and/or too heavy.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> My reasoning for a 21x14x10&quot; size limit is so you can carry this on a commercial airplane if you are traveling. You certainly wouldn't want<br /> to check this as luggage as it would probably get destroyed by handling or stolen.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Two main things I liked about the Driver 8 are the wheels and the telescoping arm. The telescoping arm is wonderful because it is very sturdy<br /> aluminum which allows you to securely attach an antenna to it. This is great for manpack operations if you want the antenna up while you are<br /> walking around with the pack on your back. It also works great for fixed operations as the pack itself can be used as an antenna base.<br /> The wheels not only give your back a break where smooth surfaces are available, they also give you the ability to easily lay down the pack when assembling a long antenna. Its like having a mini fold over tower.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The wheels are inline skate wheels and have a very low ground clearance. It will roll fine inside buildings or on a paved sidewalk. The wheels will not work on a trail. This is unfortunate as it is much easier to pull 35 lbs on wheels than to heft it on your back. One possible solution to this is to run a 1/2 inch rod (or thread stock?) along the bottom of the pack and install a pair of 10&quot; x 1.75 lightweight plastic wheels. I would use Martin Wheel part number 110 wheels because they come with metal ball bearings.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:w7ki_pack_radio.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Construction and Setup==<br /> A complete materials and sources list is at the end of this article.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Extension Rods and Antenna===<br /> To make the aluminum extension rods you need a 3 foot piece of aluminum rod. Cut the rod into 3 pieces, 2 of them will be 17 inches long and the third piece will be the remaining 2 inches.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take a 21/64 inch drill bit and drill about 1.5 inches into both ends of the 17 inch rods. Be careful to drill straight. Once this is done tap threads into both ends with a 3/8-24 tap. Tapping threads into aluminum generates a tremendous amount of head so remember to tap slowly and use an oil lubricant. Right after tapping these rods I bumped one of them with my arm and got a very nasty burn.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the tapping is done thread a 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud into both ends of the rods. Then, for each rod, put a 3/8-24 jam nut over the stud on one end and put a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut over the stud on the other end. When you are done it should look like the picture below.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_extender_rods.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> This section deals with constructing the antenna if you chose not to buy an AT-271 antenna:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now grab the remaining 2 inch piece of aluminum rod. Drill one end 1 inch deep with a size F (.2443 inch) bit then drill the other end 1 inch deep with the 21/64 inch drill bit you used for the other rods. Tap 5/16-18 threads into the size F end and 3/8-24 threads into the 21/64 end.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Take the aluminum antenna, remove the lanyard string, push in the lower release spring button and shove it up the tube a couple inches, and tap the bottom for 5/16-18 threads. The two photos below show the start and finish of tapping the threads. I seriously do not recommend using vise-grips as shown in the photos. The antenna deforms very easily. It would be much better to lightly use a vise which can distribute the grip better with much less crush force. Again, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CRUSH OR DEFORM THE TUBE. I darn near destroyed the prototype using vise-grips.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_tap_antenna2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Next we take a 1.5 inch 5/16-18 stud and thread half of it into the antenna. This is generally difficult to do so I recommend tightening two 5/16-18 nuts against each other onto the stud and use the outer nut with a wrench. Once the stud is threaded into the antenna you can thread the 2 inch aluminum rod onto the stud, then thread a 3/8-24 stud into the other end of the rod. Put a 3/8-24 jam nut onto the exposed threads. What you have done here is built a 5/16-18 to 3/8-24 thread adapter. The photo below shows what the finished product should look like.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rod_adapter.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The next step is to modify the antenna to make it conductive. The anodized surfaces do not conduct electricity so you need to take some sandpaper and sand out the inside of the bottom of each rod (about 3/4 inch should do). Another issue is the tapered inserts which are crimped into the top of the rods. These don't conduct either so you need to lightly bond them with an arc weld. This should be done with a MIG or TIG welder. Remember to sand the surfaces first, including the entire tapered section. I cheesed mine by using two truck batteries, a pair of jumper cables, and some real thin aluminum wire. Some people refer to this as hillbilly arc welding. Please don't do this unless you know the risks, know what you are doing, and you are using appropriate eye protection. Verify the end to end continuity of the antenna with an ohmmeter when you are done. Here is what mine looked like when it was done.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_hillbilly_weld.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The final step is to flatten out the pointed tip of the antenna rod. You can do this with a grinder or file.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Coil===<br /> The coil is made from a 7 3/4 inch piece of 4 inch diameter drainpipe with a drainpipe cap on each end. To make room for more coil turns we cut 1 3/8 inch off the end of the drainpipe cap. You need to cut two end caps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Locate the center of each cap, tap the center with a center punch or nail, drill a 1/8&quot; pilot hole, then drill in again with a 3/8&quot; bit.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Now we take a piece of 1/4 inch schedule 80 pvc pipe and drill/tap it for 3/8-24 threads the same way you did the aluminum rods (except please don't use lubricating oil). Its important to use schedule 80 pipe as it has the correct inside diameter for tapping threads. The pipe should be about 7 1/2 inches long and later you might have to make some slight length adjustments for fit. Once your threads are tapped you can thread a 1.5 inch 3/8-24 stud into each end then put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer over the end (see photo below). Put one end into an end cap, put a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer on the outside of the end cap, stack one 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal on top of the washer, and secure it with a 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut stacked on top of the ring terminal.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Put the other end cap on. On the outside stack a 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer, a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal, and a 3/8-24 jam nut.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to cover up any holes in the drainpipe with a square of duct tape.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_cap5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To make the coil, glue 4 pieces of .065 Nylon Edge Trim as shown in the photo (credit to Phil AD5X for finding this edge trim). When cutting them to length, remember to offset each one to correctly accommodate a spirally-wound coil. Once this is done, drill a .065&quot; diagonal hole from the edge of the cap through the top of each cap (see photo), thread the wire through the hole and wind the coil with .064&quot; (14AWG) tin coated copper wire. Remember to keep tension on the coil or else it will wind loosely. The wire is stiff and doesn't come off the coil perfectly so there will be some manual coil alignment/straightening to do after the coil is wound. Once the coil is wound, put the ends thorough the 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminals, then cut &amp; solder. Be careful of heat damage to the plastic while soldering. Its usually best to loosen the end nuts prior to soldering as it will conduct less heat away from the ring terminals.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_end.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The coil tap is an EZ-Hook XM attached to a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal with an 11 inch piece of 22-gauge 7-strand insulated hookup wire. Attach the ring terminal above the coil ring terminal as shown in the photo.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_coil_tap.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The EZ-Hook XM works great for 17AWG wire however its a little small for our 14AWG coil. The hook can be slightly adjusted with needlenose pliers to fit the 14AWG wire. The picture below shows the modified hook profile.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ezhook.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As built, the coil specs out like this: 7&quot; length, 4.25&quot; dia, 50 turns, 14ga .063 (spaced) = 129uH&lt;br&gt;<br /> Its a little overkill on the size &amp; inductance but it gives a lot of flexibility with short antennas.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Balun===<br /> The balun is based on a design by WB6ZQZ. His design appears to be a bifilar current balun in series with a quadrifilar voltage balun. We are only interested in the quadrifilar transformer because we will be using an external ferrite choke on the feedline (which allows us to use the choke for antenna configurations that don't use the voltage balun). Here is a link to instructions on how to wind the quadrifilar transformer:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> http://www.antennalaunchers.com/trb/photos.html<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Use 16ga enameled wire and a F-125-K toroid. Once the transformer is wound you can mount it on a small piece of plastic with holes drilled for the wires. Attach the wires to each other as per his schematic diagram and PC board photos.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Mount the completed toroid into a 3x2x1 inch Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box. Install an SO-239 connector into the bottom of the box. For terminals I used (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts/nuts/wingnuts which are available at a home-improvement store. Label the terminals for Common, 50, 25, and 12 ohms. Attach a short piece of velcro to the back side which allows for mounting.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_balun2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Antenna Mount &amp; Wire Spools===<br /> The antenna mount uses 1/4-20 hardware. I recommend replacing two of the nuts with wingnuts. Cut an 11 foot piece of Belden 8219 RG58A/U and loop it twice through two Laird LFB187102 ferrites as shown in the photo below. The coax fits tightly and we do not want to stretch it while pulling it through the ferrites so use a non-petroleum lubricant (I used cooking spray). Once this is done you can put UG-175/U reducers on the cable and solder a PL259 connector on each end.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_choke.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The antenna wire is spooled on a (2) Coleman 827E140T colthesline reels (thanks to Richard WA6KYR for finding these). Each Coleman reel comes with 21 feet of nylon cord. Pull all the cord out and cut off 13 feet so there is 8 feet remaining on the spool. Attach 59 1/2 feet of 22AWG insulated hookup wire to the end of the nylon cord. You can do this by stripping the end of the wire and pushing it through the middle of the nylon cord about 1/2 inch from the end, then secure the end of the nylon cord by lightly melting it with a lighter or soldering iron. Now you can reel in the wire. If it gets stuck you can open the reel with a 1/3 turn of the enclosure shell. Attach a 16-14AWG 3/8 ring terminal to the end of the wire.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you are wondering why we use 59 1/2 feet it is because its the only length available that is reasonably close for loading at 75-80m and is not an even 1/2-wavelength multiple of any amateur band from 6m-40m (in fact we can go +/- 3 feet before bumping into one of these multiples. You should be able to roll this out to full length and tune any amateur band from 80m-6m. It also makes a good antenna to use with ALE and our RF-sensing tuner.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Battery===<br /> Each battery pack is made of (4) 40160S LiFePO4 cells (3.2V 16Ah) with a battery management circuit put into a Huggies wipe box.<br /> The battery management circuit sits on top of a plastic board which is an Akro-Mils 40150 (3.3 x 7.7 x 0.1 inch). Mount the batteries in the plastic holders, wire them in series with the bus bars, mount the battery management circuit, then wire it in. I recommend using a 30 amp fuse as pictured. Once this is done attach a 30A (12-14AWG) Powerpole connector with 12-gauge wire. The battery management circuit will charge the battery up to 14.2v before it automatically cuts off. The charger should be at least 14.6v.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each 40160S cell is rated at 3.65V (Max Charge), 3.2V (Nominal), and 2.0V (Discharge cut off).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Max charge current is 5C (80A) and max discharge current is 10C (160A).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cell life is rated at 2000 charge/discharge cycles under normal use.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete battery pack weighs about 5 lbs.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_pack_battery7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Data Interface===<br /> The data interface consists of audio isolation transformers, an RS232 level converter, and a PTT transistor. The audio circuit is per the &quot;KK7UQ Interface Model II&quot; circuit although I chose not to use the potentiometers and solid state relay in the original design. The original design and documentation can be found here:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;http://kk7uq.com/html/download/Manual2E.pdf<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The RS232 level converter is per a circuit attributed to OE1RIB.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> I decided not to go with the Yaseu CT62 cable because I wanted the ability to use the DTR line for PTT (which is much cleaner for automated CW than keying with serial commands). Don't get me wrong here, I prefer a key, however flexibility was one of the design goals. I modified the level converter circuit to take power from the radio rather than trying to rob it from DTR/CTS with diodes. There is also a DPDT toggle switch on the back of the data interface which is an &quot;OFF&quot; switch (cuts the power from the radio and cuts the PTT line). I looked at off-the-shelf interfaces and most of them were either too big or required power for the audio circuitry.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Use a USB-serial converter if your computer doesn't have a serial port. I recommend using converters with the FTDI chipset for best performance and OS compatibility (I used USBG-RS232-F12 from usbgear.com).<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is the actual circuit I used to build the data interface:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Remember to leave clearance for the jacks and switches when laying out the components on the PC board.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Velcro attachment<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Mounted to radio<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> To connect the interface box to the radio I used a short piece of cat5 network cable wired like this&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT RD W-Br&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT TD W-G&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT + Br-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> CAT GND G-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Data Out12 O-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data In W-Bl&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data PTT W-O&lt;br&gt;<br /> Data GND Bl-W&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The mini-din connectors go in very tight so beware of non-functioning or partial connections when you do this. Once you get them seated properly they work great and stay in place. Make sure to notch the back of the connector sleeves so the cables can exit at 90 degrees. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_interface5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In the above photo you will also notice a connector/adapter contraption covered with electrical tape. These UHF right-angle adapters were used because the radio rests on its back side in the pack and we don't want the weight of the radio sitting on a PL259 connector and pinching the coax. All UHF right-angle adapters are not created equal. Most of them are garbage and use a small internal spring to connect the center conductor. The correct part to use is Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U. The adapter connecting the radio to the tuner is two of the Amphenol right-angle adapters connected with a short piece of LMR-600 with the center conductor diameter ground down from 0.176&quot; to 0.157&quot;. The length of the LMR600 and the mounting position of the tuner are critical because you don't want to obstruct the ports on the rear of the radio. As you can see in the photo below, this arrangement makes the back of the radio very compact which helps it fit in the pack.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_ft857_back.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Power Wiring===<br /> On the power supply you can add a third powerpole connector which is jumped to ground. When the third connector is also done on the radio side (connected to the radio brown wire) it forces the radio to 20W when plugged into the supply. This is good because our power supply is only good for 7.5 amps.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The power cable is 24 inches of 12-gauge red/black zipcord with a third wire for sensing low-power mode. Additionally it has a 16 inch length of zipcord for the tuner with a 2.5x5.5mm right-angle connector. As with the OEM cable, the 12-gauge cable splits off into two 14-gauge cables at the connector. You will notice that there are no fuses on this cable. I didn't bother because all my power sources for the pack are fused. In hindsight it would be prudent to put 30A fuses on both the positive and negative wires.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Third Powerpole connector for low power sense.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Connector end detail<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_power3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Monopod===<br /> The monopod is used to elevate the feedpoint of the dipole or a short vertical antenna. It is carbon fiber, weighs only 19oz, and extends to 68&quot;.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The monopod needs to be shortened to fit into the pack. Going around the perimeter of the small end rod, cut off the bottom half of the top rubber cap. This will allow the rod to collapse about an additional 1/2 inch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The bottom cap can be removed by pushing in the two roll pins with a small center punch. Then, with the rod fully collapsed, you will see there is about 13/16 inch you can saw off the big end without hitting the smaller rods that collapse inside of it. The photo below shows it after the cut.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_monopod3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===Radio setup===<br /> Here is how I set mine up&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 7.000mhz<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to on.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 19&quot; (CAT Rate). Set it to 9600.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 29&quot; (CW Sidetone). Set it to 5.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 38&quot; (Dig Mode). Set it to PSK31-U.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 59&quot; (Mic Sel). Set it to RMT if you are using the MH-59A8J mic.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 86&quot; (TX IF Filter). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 2.3<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 50.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 45.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 144.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 20.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Tune radio to 446.000mhz<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push and hold FUNC key for one second.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 75&quot; (RF power). Using the large tuning dial, set it to 10.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Rotate Select knob to &quot;Menu 1&quot; (Ext Menu). Set it to off.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Press and hold the FUNC key to exit.<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;Enable 2.3kc filter for TX:<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;Push FUNC, rotate select to N, press 2.3 (above B key)<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ==Usage==<br /> The most basic setup is pulling the aluminum pack handle up one notch and attaching the mount/antenna. This can be used for a quick base setup or walking around with the pack on your back. The photo below shows the mount and 2m/70cm whip installed. If you want a somewhat useful counterpoise for 6m/2m/70cm without attaching the counterpoise wire, simply invert the feedline such that the chokes are by the radio instead of by the antenna. This way you can use the coax itself for a counterpoise. Its certainly not the best way to do it but it will work.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_1.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Each aluminum rod is 18&quot; and you can use one of them by itself for a 2m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_rods2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you use both rods with the 2m/70cm whip on top you will have a 6m quarter-wave.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_2.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> You can use the monopod to elevate the a 6m/2m/70cm antenna. We use the carpal tunnel wrist strap to attach the monopod to the packs aluminum handle. The next photo looks like the leaning tower of Pisa because my first prototype was done with a medium-sized wrist strap. I have since moved to a small-sized strap which makes it stand much straighter. The monopod is good for 6m/2m/70cm verticals and for holding the feedpoint of a dipole. Do not use the monopod with the 8-foot antenna rod and/or the large loading coil as it gets too topheavy to remain stable. The following photo shows the ground radials installed and the choke ferrite near the antenna feedpoint. For a simpler setup you can skip the ground radials and invert the feedline (so the choke ferrites are near the radio) which will make the feedline act as a counterpoise. Yes I know this was said earlier in the article but its worth repeating.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_8.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Detail of antenna mount attached to the monopod pole<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_9.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The collapsible antenna by itself will work as a quarter-wave on 10m (pictured below) and should also tune up ok on 12m. It will work as a quarter-wave on 15m if you add the two aluminum extension rods.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_3.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Attaching the coil (tapped on the lowest turn) to the antenna base with the two aluminum rods above it will tune down to 80m. This configuration will have near zero efficiency however it will allow short-range communication on 75/80m while walking around with the pack on your back.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_4.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The best vertical configuration for 80m thru 17m is attaching the two rods to the base, putting the coil on top of the rods, then putting the collapsible aluminum antenna rod on top. It is best to tilt the pack over on its wheels and assemble the antenna on the ground.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_5.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_6.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once its assembled, tilt it up by lifting the aluminum arm on the pack. The weight of the batteries do a good job of keeping the antenna in place.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_7.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If you want to try 160 meters you can remove the 8 foot whip and connect one of the 59-foot wire spools to the top of the coil.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> For a dipole configuration you can strap the balun to the top of the monopod and connect our spools of wire to it. Dipoles work best when they are at least 1/4 wave above the ground. Our feedpoint impedance will typically be much less than 50 ohms because in most cases we will be less than 1/4 wave off the ground. This will be especially noticeable on 40m/80m. Attach one wire to the &quot;C&quot; (common) balun terminal and attach the other wire to either the 12, 25, or 50 ohm terminal depending on which one works best. The wire spools use 3/8 ring terminals so we can optionally connect them directly to the vertical antenna mount if you want to feed a dipole directly without the balun.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> One other important thing to note about dipoles is its best to keep the ends up off the ground. There is 8 feet of nylon rope at the end of the spools which can help in getting your wire somewhere it can be secured. In my pack I also keep short plastic tent stakes and short bungee cords which can help in some situations.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_10.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> There are a few other odds &amp; ends I keep in the pack. The PL-259 center to ring terminal adapter is for using the voltage balun with the vertical antenna. The Powerpole &quot;Y&quot; cable is for running the AC adapter or solar charger while using the radio. The short 3/8-24 bolt is for attaching a dipole wire directly to the antenna mount or to the top of the coil. There are also two 8-foot stereo cables for the data adapter and a 10-foot serial cable (not pictured). (I chose 8-10' cables to keep the computer RF a little ways away from the radio/antenna). At the bottom is the usb/serial adapter and on the bottom right are short velcro cable ties for attaching the feedline to the monopole and/or aluminum pack handle.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_misc.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Here is how it all fits into the pack<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[File:W7ki_11.jpg]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The complete pack with both batteries and the computer weighs 35 lbs.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The weight can be substantially reduced by removing the spare battery, AC adapter, computer (if you don't need it), and any antenna parts you don't plan on using.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In case you are wondering where the CW key/paddles are, I'm still working on finding a solution that works well with this portable setup.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Two that have been recommended are the mini paddle from milestone technologies and the traveler light from begali.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ==Parts &amp; Prices==<br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> $799 FT857D w/YSK857<br /> $95 TCXO-9<br /> $82 MH-59A8J DTMF mic (also needed for direct freq entry)<br /> <br /> $120 W4RT2.3khz ssb filter<br /> $169 Z-11pro2<br /> <br /> $14 IBM PA-1121-0711 16V 7.5A Notebook Power Supply Adapter (ebay)<br /> $2 bridge rectifier KBPC5010 (ebay)<br /> <br /> $144 (8) 16ah 40160s lifepo4 $24/ea (bmsbattery.com or manzanitamicro.com)<br /> $3 (8) 40160S battery holders 0.40/ea<br /> $4 (8) 40160S bus bar connectors 0.50/ea<br /> $80 battery shipping<br /> <br /> Update 11-21-2011: The manufacturer has discontinued the 16ah 40160S battery and replaced it with the 15ah 40152S battery.<br /> <br /> $97 (2) 30A Battery Management PCB http://www.batteryspace.com/pcbprotectioncircuitmodulefor4cells128vlifepo4batterypackat30alimited.aspx<br /> <br /> $11 USB to serial converter http://www.usbgear.com/computer_cable_details.cfm?sku=USBG-RS232-F12&amp;cats=199&amp;catid=482%2C199%2C601%2C461<br /> <br /> $8 3/8X24 Thread Mirror Mount: Wilson 901104<br /> $5 (20') Belden 8219 (RG58A/U) <br /> $3 (4) Amphenol 83-185-RFX (UG-175 reducer)<br /> $20 (4) Amphenol 83-822 (PL259)<br /> $10 shipping (theantennafarm.com)<br /> <br /> $79 Jansport Driver 8 TN89-008 UPC 757969203361 Wheeled Backpack (buy.com)<br /> <br /> $6 dual-band (2/440) whip with 3/8x24 mount (hamstick EDBW-1, Opek DB-1, or Workman DB-1) <br /> $4 (2) CONXPARTSA Kenwood KW2000 (Parts A)<br /> $3 (6 feet) Red &amp; Black DC wire 12 GA<br /> $9 shipping (k1cra.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (3') LMR-600 (showmecables.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 nuts (7/16&quot; head)<br /> $1 (4) 1/4&quot;-20 x 3/4&quot; bolts<br /> $2 (8) 1/4&quot;-20 wingnuts<br /> $9 (10') 4&quot; drainpipe (we need one 7 3/4&quot; piece)<br /> $4 (2) 4&quot; drainpipe cap (home depot)<br /> <br /> $20 (5) littelfuse FHA30 12AWG inline fuse holder<br /> $3 (1) 5-pack of ATO 7.5 fuse (drillspot.com)<br /> <br /> $3 4' 14 gauge cable (for short part of radio power connector) (.62/ft)<br /> $1 4' 18 gauge cable (for battery sense +/- to pcb, low power wire on power cable) (.31/ft)<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (22-18) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $4 (1) 1/4&quot; (16-14) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $6 (1) 1/4&quot; (12-10) Ring Terminal 50pcs<br /> $10 shipping (parts-express.com)<br /> <br /> (1) DB9F mouser 156-1309 0.80<br /> (4) BC546A mouser 512-BC546A 0.10<br /> (2) 5.6k 1/4w mouser 588-OD562JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (3) 10k 1/4w mouser 588-OD103JE carbon comp 5% 0.42/ea<br /> (1) 3.5mm 3-pin plug (cw) (2 wires used) mouser 568-NYS231BG 1.69 (for cw jack)<br /> (1) 8-pin mini-din (cat) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2608 1.49<br /> (1) 6-pin mini-din (data) (4 wires used) mouser 171-2606 1.36<br /> (2) 600ohm 1:1 transformer mouser 42TL016-RC 1.66<br /> (2) 51 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD510JE 0.42<br /> (1) 1uf cap mouser 5989-100V1.0-F 0.71<br /> (1) .0047uf cap mouser 140-50P5-472K-RC 50v ceramic disc 0.12<br /> (1) 100 ohm 1/4w mouser 588-OD101JE 0.42 carbon comp 5%<br /> (1) 1k 1/4w mouser 588-OD102JE 0.42<br /> (1) board mouser 854-PR1593K $4.10 2.6 x 2.6<br /> (1) box mouser 546-1593KBK $2.88 (box is 2.6 x 2.6 x 1.1)<br /> (2) 2.2k resistor 1/2w carbon comp 5% mouser 588-OF222JE (1/4w mouser 588-OD222JE 0.42 not avail)<br /> (4) PL259 right angle Amphenol 083-1AP UG-646/U Mouser 523-83-1AP $14.70/ea<br /> (1) 2.5x5.5mm right angle plug (24AWG) power plug for tuner mouser 171-3216-EX $1.04/ea<br /> (2) ferrites - mouser 875-LFB187102-000 3.03/ea 3/4&quot; OD .400&quot; ID 1.125&quot; long (3 turns RG58 = 1000 ohm impedance @ 1-5mhz)<br /> (2) mouser 526-WH22-00-100 100' 22awg copper 7-strand hookup wire black nteinc.com $19 (use p/n 03-100 for orange) insulation OD 0.060&quot;<br /> (2) 3.5mm stereo jacks 502-35RAPC3BV4 2.73<br /> $112 total<br /> $12 shipping (mouser.com)<br /> <br /> $8 (1) 14-pack 3/8 ring terminal 16-14AWG (JT&amp;T 2011H - amazon.com)<br /> $18 (2) 8ft 3.5mm stereo cables (mediabridge - amazon.com)<br /> $3 21/64 (.3281&quot;) drill bit for 3/8-24 threads (amazon.com)<br /> $28 3' Aluminum 6061-T6 Seamless Round Tubing, WW-T 700/6, 1/2&quot; OD, 1/4&quot; ID, 1/8&quot; Wall, 36&quot; Length (amazon.com)<br /> $65 Opteka CFM300 68&quot; 5 Section 8x Carbon Fiber Monopod (amazon.com)<br /> $209 (1) PowerFilm F15-1200 20W solar panel 10.5 x 6.5 x 0.6 1 lb (amazon.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (4) EZ-Hook XM (digi-key 461-1004-ND)<br /> <br /> $2 Akro-Mils plastic dividers (Akro-Mils 40150 wasserstrom.com)<br /> <br /> $1 (8) 3/8-24 Jam Nuts 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (2) 3/8-24 Hex Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $10 (5) 3/8-24 x 1-1/8 Hex Coupling Nut 18-8 Stainless Steel<br /> $1 (10) 3/8&quot; USS Flat Washer 316 Stainless Steel<br /> $7 shipping (fastener-warehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $7 (5') 1/4&quot; schedule 80 PVC pipe (usplastic.com)<br /> <br /> $14 (2) coleman 827E140T colthesline reel (coleman.com)<br /> <br /> $58 AT-271A/PRC antenna (ebay) OR $58 Voile Tourlight Avalanche Probe (8 foot) (voile-usa.com)<br /> <br /> $2 (2) 6&quot; tent stakes (rei.com)<br /> $2 (1) 4-pack of 10&quot; bungee cords (rei.com)<br /> $8 tax/shipping (rei.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) F-125-K Toroid Core 1.25&quot; 250-300 permeability low loss ferrite 1-30 mhz (theaudioguru.com)<br /> <br /> $11 (1) 1/4 lb Wire, 16ga (0.05&quot;) enameled (we need 4 feet for toroid) (allspectrum.com or jameco.com)<br /> <br /> $20 (1) 79-87283 DonJoy COMFORTFORM WRIST support-Small right (expressorthopedics.com - warning, it takes them a month to ship it)<br /> <br /> $8 Cables To Go 52030 - 6ft DB9 M/F All Lines Extension Cable Black (nextwarehouse.com)<br /> <br /> $12 (1) 85085K8 25-pack nylon edge trim .065 gap width 3/16 opening, 15/64 height, 12 3/4 long<br /> $23 (1) 8871K71 80' (1 lb) spool .064&quot; (14ga) tin coated copper wire (spool says Arcor 14AWG)<br /> $2 (1) 91187A202 1.5&quot; 5/16-18 RHT stainless stud (or you can order a 10-pack for $4.55 with part number 95412A587)<br /> $10 (2) 95412A659 5-pack of 1.5&quot; 3/8-24 RHT stainless stud<br /> $9 tax/shipping (mcmaster.com)<br /> <br /> ==========<br /> $2518 approximate cost<br /> <br /> <br /> $? (1) stickyback velcro (attach tuner to radio mount)<br /> <br /> $? (1) velcro wire ties (attach coax to antenna mast)<br /> <br /> $? (1) 3/8-24 tap<br /> $? (1) 5/16-18 tap<br /> $? (1) Jaycar UB5 clear jiffy box (for balun) 3x2x1&quot;<br /> <br /> $? (4) 30A (12-14AWG) red/black powerpole connector (1 for radio, 2 for batteries, 1 for AC/DC power supply)<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;</div> Sat, 14 Sep 2013 15:56:49 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:W7KI_Manpack_Radio http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Triplett_Meters <p>Rich:&#32;/* 630 */</p> <hr /> <div>Triplett is a manufacturer of electronic test equipment, most notably the 310 and 630 VOM's.<br /> <br /> ===630===<br /> The 630 is a well known VOM manufactured from 1949? to 2007. Its primary competetion was the Simpson 260.<br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> | Model<br /> | Years<br /> | Mvmt<br /> | PeakV<br /> | PeakA<br /> | LowA<br /> | Mirror<br /> | Doubler<br /> | Notes<br /> |-<br /> | 630<br /> | 1949-?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 60uA<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 3<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 100uA<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | 20K/v. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 4<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 5<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 60uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 5<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> |<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | aka model 3030. 30v(413/210) battery. female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 6<br /> | 2007?<br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> | 300uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | aka model 3030. female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-A<br /> | 1953-?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 60uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-A type 2<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 60uA<br /> | x <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-A type 3<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-APL<br /> | 1970-?<br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-APL type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-APL type 5<br /> | 1980?<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | 30v(413/210) battery <br /> |-<br /> | 630-APLK<br /> | -1976?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000 <br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-L<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-L type 2<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-M<br /> |<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 1Meg/Volt sens.<br /> |-<br /> | 630-M type 1<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 1<br /> | <br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 2<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> |<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 3<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 30v(413/210) batt. Some 6000(Red)/1200,others 1200 only. banana probes. #3042?<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NS<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 200K/v instead of 20K/v sens. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NS type 2<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 200K/v instead of 20K/v sens. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NS type 3<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 200K/v instead of 20K/v sens. banana probes #3102<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL<br /> | 1976-?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 2<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 3<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | some?<br /> | <br /> | banana probes <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 5<br /> | 1980?<br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 5<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> |<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 6<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | 120mA<br /> | <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 6<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | model 3050<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PLK<br /> | -1976?<br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PLK type 7<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PLK type 8<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PLK type 9<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> :A = higher precision than non-A<br /> :S = very high sensitivity (200K/v)<br /> :M = super high sensitivity (1M/v)<br /> :L = low power ohms<br /> :N = includes range doubler switch<br /> :P = polarity reversal switch ?<br /> :K = protection circuit<br /> :APL = higher precision than A + low power ohms<br /> :PLK = protection circuit<br /> :APLK = both the above<br /> :PL = all the above (1976 and later)<br /> <br /> : Some information sourced from postings by Fred Scoles</div> Wed, 26 Jun 2013 15:21:32 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:Triplett_Meters http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Triplett_Meters <p>Rich:&#32;/* 630 */</p> <hr /> <div>Triplett is a manufacturer of electronic test equipment, most notably the 310 and 630 VOM's.<br /> <br /> ===630===<br /> The 630 is a well known VOM manufactured from 1949? to 2007. Its primary competetion was the Simpson 260.<br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> | Model<br /> | Years<br /> | Mvmt<br /> | PeakV<br /> | PeakA<br /> | LowA<br /> | Mirror<br /> | Doubler<br /> | Notes<br /> |-<br /> | 630<br /> | 1949-?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 60uA<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 3<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 100uA<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | 20K/v. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 4<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 5<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 60uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 5<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> |<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | aka model 3030. 30v(413/210) battery. female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 6<br /> | 2007?<br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> | 300uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | aka model 3030. female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-A<br /> | 1953-?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 60uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-A type 2<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 60uA<br /> | x <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-A type 3<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-APL<br /> | 1970-?<br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-APL type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-APL type 5<br /> | 1980?<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | 30v(413/210) battery <br /> |-<br /> | 630-APLK<br /> | -1976?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000 <br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-L<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-L type 2<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-M<br /> |<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 1Meg/Volt sens.<br /> |-<br /> | 630-M type 1<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 1<br /> | <br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 2<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> |<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 3<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 30v(413/210) batt. Some 6000(Red)/1200,others 1200 only. banana probes. #3042?<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NS<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 200K/v instead of 20K/v sens. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NS type 2<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 200K/v instead of 20K/v sens. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NS type 3<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 200K/v instead of 20K/v sens. banana probes #3102<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL<br /> | 1976-?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 2<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 3<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | some?<br /> | <br /> | banana probes <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 5<br /> | 1980?<br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 5<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> |<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 6<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | 120mA<br /> | <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 6<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | model 3050<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PLK<br /> | -1976?<br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PLK type 7<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PLK type 8<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> :A = higher precision than non-A<br /> :S = very high sensitivity (200K/v)<br /> :M = super high sensitivity (1M/v)<br /> :L = low power ohms<br /> :N = includes range doubler switch<br /> :P = polarity reversal switch ?<br /> :K = protection circuit<br /> :APL = higher precision than A + low power ohms<br /> :PLK = protection circuit<br /> :APLK = both the above<br /> :PL = all the above (1976 and later)<br /> <br /> : Some information sourced from postings by Fred Scoles</div> Mon, 24 Jun 2013 22:53:45 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:Triplett_Meters http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Triplett_Meters <p>Rich:&#32;/* 630 */</p> <hr /> <div>Triplett is a manufacturer of electronic test equipment, most notably the 310 and 630 VOM's.<br /> <br /> ===630===<br /> The 630 is a well known VOM manufactured from 1949? to 2007. Its primary competetion was the Simpson 260.<br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> | Model<br /> | Years<br /> | Mvmt<br /> | PeakV<br /> | PeakA<br /> | LowA<br /> | Mirror<br /> | Doubler<br /> | Notes<br /> |-<br /> | 630<br /> | 1949-?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 60uA<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 3<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 100uA<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | 20K/v. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 4<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 5<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 60uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 5<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> |<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | aka model 3030. 30v(413/210) battery. female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 6<br /> | 2007?<br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> | 300uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | aka model 3030. female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-A<br /> | 1953-?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 60uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-A type 2<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 60uA<br /> | x <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-A type 3<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-APL<br /> | 1970-?<br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-APL type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-APL type 5<br /> | 1980?<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | 30v(413/210) battery <br /> |-<br /> | 630-APLK<br /> | -1976?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000 <br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-L<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-L type 2<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-M<br /> |<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 1Meg/Volt sens.<br /> |-<br /> | 630-M type 1<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> |<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 1<br /> | <br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 2<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> |<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 3<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 30v(413/210) batt. Some 6000(Red)/1200,others 1200 only. banana probes. #3042?<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NS<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 200K/v instead of 20K/v sens. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NS type 2<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 200K/v instead of 20K/v sens. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NS type 3<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 200K/v instead of 20K/v sens. banana probes #3102<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL<br /> | 1976-?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 2<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 3<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | some?<br /> | <br /> | banana probes <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 5<br /> | 1980?<br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 5<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> |<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 6<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | 120mA<br /> | <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 6<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | model 3050<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PLK<br /> | -1976?<br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PLK type 7<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PLK type 8<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> :A = higher precision than non-A<br /> :S = very high sensitivity (200K/v)<br /> :M = super high sensitivity (1M/v)<br /> :L = low power ohms<br /> :N = includes range doubler switch<br /> :P = polarity reversal switch ?<br /> :K = protection circuit<br /> :APL = higher precision than A + low power ohms<br /> :PLK = protection circuit<br /> :APLK = both the above<br /> :PL = all the above (1976 and later)<br /> <br /> : Some information sourced from postings by Fred Scoles</div> Mon, 24 Jun 2013 22:51:03 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:Triplett_Meters http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/XMT <p>Rich:&#32;</p> <hr /> <div>In Washington state, vehicles that are exempt from licensing fees do not display license tabs and have the &quot;XMT&quot; designation printed vertically where the first character would be. The last letter indicates registered owner:<br /> {|class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !B<br /> |State agency<br /> |-<br /> !C<br /> |County agency<br /> |-<br /> !D<br /> |City<br /> |-<br /> !E<br /> |State agency<br /> |-<br /> !K<br /> |State DOT<br /> |-<br /> !M<br /> |State motor pool<br /> |}<br /> <br /> State Patrol vehicles are the exception; all non-[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hIioyfmHB6Q ADAT] vehicles are licensed &quot;WSP xxx&quot;.</div> Sat, 18 May 2013 20:42:23 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:XMT http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Triplett_Meters <p>Rich:&#32;/* 630 */</p> <hr /> <div>Triplett is a manufacturer of electronic test equipment, most notably the 310 and 630 VOM's.<br /> <br /> ===630===<br /> The 630 is a well known VOM manufactured from 1949? to 2007. Its primary competetion was the Simpson 260.<br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> | Model<br /> | Years<br /> | Mvmt<br /> | PeakV<br /> | PeakA<br /> | LowA<br /> | Mirror<br /> | Doubler<br /> | Notes<br /> |-<br /> | 630<br /> | 1949-?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 60uA<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 3<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 100uA<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | 20K/v. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 4<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 5<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 60uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 5<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> |<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | aka model 3030. 30v(413/210) battery. female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 6<br /> | 2007?<br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> | 300uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | aka model 3030. female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-A<br /> | 1953-?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 60uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-A type 2<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 60uA<br /> | x <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-A type 3<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-APL<br /> | 1970-?<br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-APL type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-APL type 5<br /> | 1980?<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | 30v(413/210) battery <br /> |-<br /> | 630-APLK<br /> | -1976?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000 <br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-L type 2<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-M<br /> |<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 1Meg/Volt sens.<br /> |-<br /> | 630-M type 1<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> |<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 1<br /> | <br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 2<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> |<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 3<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 30v(413/210) batt. Some 6000(Red)/1200,others 1200 only. banana probes. #3042?<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NS<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 200K/v instead of 20K/v sens. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NS type 2<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 200K/v instead of 20K/v sens. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NS type 3<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 200K/v instead of 20K/v sens. banana probes #3102<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL<br /> | 1976-?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 2<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 3<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | some?<br /> | <br /> | banana probes <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 5<br /> | 1980?<br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 5<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> |<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 6<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | 120mA<br /> | <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 6<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | model 3050<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PLK<br /> | -1976?<br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PLK type 7<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PLK type 8<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> :A = higher precision than non-A<br /> :S = very high sensitivity (200K/v)<br /> :M = super high sensitivity (1M/v)<br /> :L = low power ohms<br /> :N = includes range doubler switch<br /> :P = polarity reversal switch ?<br /> :K = protection circuit<br /> :APL = higher precision than A + low power ohms<br /> :PLK = protection circuit<br /> :APLK = both the above<br /> :PL = all the above (1976 and later)<br /> <br /> : Some information sourced from postings by Fred Scoles</div> Wed, 01 May 2013 23:36:45 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:Triplett_Meters http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Triplett_Meters <p>Rich:&#32;/* 630 */</p> <hr /> <div>Triplett is a manufacturer of electronic test equipment, most notably the 310 and 630 VOM's.<br /> <br /> ===630===<br /> The 630 is a well known VOM manufactured from 1949? to 2007. Its primary competetion was the Simpson 260.<br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> | Model<br /> | Years<br /> | Mvmt<br /> | PeakV<br /> | PeakA<br /> | LowA<br /> | Mirror<br /> | Doubler<br /> | Notes<br /> |-<br /> | 630<br /> | 1949-?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 60uA<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 3<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 100uA<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | 20K/v. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 4<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 5<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 60uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 5<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> |<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | aka model 3030. 30v(413/210) battery. female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 6<br /> | 2007?<br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> | 300uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | aka model 3030. female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-A<br /> | 1953-?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 60uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-A type 2<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 60uA<br /> | x <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-A type 3<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-APL<br /> | 1970-?<br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-APL type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-APL type 5<br /> | 1980?<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | 30v(413/210) battery <br /> |-<br /> | 630-APLK<br /> | -1976?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000 <br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-L type 2<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-M<br /> |<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 1Meg/Volt sens.<br /> |-<br /> | 630-M type 1<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> |<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 1<br /> | <br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 2<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> |<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 3<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 30v(413/210) batt. Some 6000(Red)/1200,others 1200 only. banana probes. #3042?<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NS<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 200K/v instead of 20K/v sens. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NS type 2<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 200K/v instead of 20K/v sens. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NS type 3<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 200K/v instead of 20K/v sens. banana probes #3102<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL<br /> | 1976-?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 2<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 3<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | some?<br /> | <br /> | banana probes <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 5<br /> | 1980?<br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 5<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> |<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 6<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | 120mA<br /> | <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 6<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PLK<br /> | -1976?<br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PLK type 7<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PLK type 8<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> :A = higher precision than non-A<br /> :S = very high sensitivity (200K/v)<br /> :M = super high sensitivity (1M/v)<br /> :L = low power ohms<br /> :N = includes range doubler switch<br /> :P = polarity reversal switch ?<br /> :K = protection circuit<br /> :APL = higher precision than A + low power ohms<br /> :PLK = protection circuit<br /> :APLK = both the above<br /> :PL = all the above (1976 and later)<br /> <br /> : Some information sourced from postings by Fred Scoles</div> Wed, 24 Apr 2013 17:29:52 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:Triplett_Meters http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Triplett_Meters <p>Rich:&#32;/* 630 */</p> <hr /> <div>Triplett is a manufacturer of electronic test equipment, most notably the 310 and 630 VOM's.<br /> <br /> ===630===<br /> The 630 is a well known VOM manufactured from 1949? to 2007. Its primary competetion was the Simpson 260.<br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> | Model<br /> | Years<br /> | Mvmt<br /> | PeakV<br /> | PeakA<br /> | LowA<br /> | Mirror<br /> | Doubler<br /> | Notes<br /> |-<br /> | 630<br /> | 1949-?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 60uA<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 3<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 100uA<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | 20K/v. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 4<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 5<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 60uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 5<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> |<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | aka model 3030. 30v(413/210) battery. female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 6<br /> | 2007?<br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> | 300uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | aka model 3030. female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-A<br /> | 1953-?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 60uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-A type 2<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 60uA<br /> | x <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-A type 3<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-APL<br /> | 1970-?<br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-APL type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-APL type 5<br /> | 1980?<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | 30v(413/210) battery <br /> |-<br /> | 630-APLK<br /> | -1976?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000 <br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-L type 2<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-M<br /> | <br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | 1Meg/Volt sens.<br /> |-<br /> | 630-M type 1<br /> | <br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> |<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 1<br /> | <br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 2<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> |<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 3<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 30v(413/210) batt. Some 6000(Red)/1200,others 1200 only. banana probes. #3042?<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NS<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 200K/v instead of 20K/v sens. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NS type 2<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 200K/v instead of 20K/v sens. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NS type 3<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 200K/v instead of 20K/v sens. banana probes #3102<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL<br /> | 1976-?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 2<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 3<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | some?<br /> | <br /> | banana probes <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 5<br /> | 1980?<br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 5<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> |<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 6<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | 120mA<br /> | <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 6<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PLK<br /> | -1976?<br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PLK type 7<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PLK type 8<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> :A = higher precision than non-A<br /> :S = very high sensitivity (200K/v)<br /> :M = super high sensitivity (1M/v)<br /> :L = low power ohms<br /> :N = includes range doubler switch<br /> :P = polarity reversal switch ?<br /> :K = protection circuit<br /> :APL = higher precision than A + low power ohms<br /> :PLK = protection circuit<br /> :APLK = both the above<br /> :PL = all the above (1976 and later)<br /> <br /> : Some information sourced from postings by Fred Scoles</div> Fri, 19 Apr 2013 02:20:53 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:Triplett_Meters http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Triplett_Meters <p>Rich:&#32;/* 630 */</p> <hr /> <div>Triplett is a manufacturer of electronic test equipment, most notably the 310 and 630 VOM's.<br /> <br /> ===630===<br /> The 630 is a well known VOM manufactured from 1949? to 2007. Its primary competetion was the Simpson 260.<br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> | Model<br /> | Years<br /> | Mvmt<br /> | PeakV<br /> | PeakA<br /> | LowA<br /> | Mirror<br /> | Doubler<br /> | Notes<br /> |-<br /> | 630<br /> | 1949-?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 60uA<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 3<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 100uA<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | 20K/v. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 4<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 5<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> |<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 5<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> |<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | aka model 3030. 30v(413/210) battery. female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 6<br /> | 2007?<br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> | 300uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | aka model 3030. female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-A<br /> | 1953-?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 60uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-A type 2<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 60uA<br /> | x <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-A type 3<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-APL<br /> | 1970-?<br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-APL type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-APL type 5<br /> | 1980?<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | 30v(413/210) battery <br /> |-<br /> | 630-APLK<br /> | -1976?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000 <br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-L type 2<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-M<br /> | <br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | 1Meg/Volt sens.<br /> |-<br /> | 630-M type 1<br /> | <br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> |<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 1<br /> | <br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 2<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> |<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 3<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 30v(413/210) batt. Some 6000(Red)/1200,others 1200 only. banana probes. #3042?<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NS<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 200K/v instead of 20K/v sens. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NS type 2<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 200K/v instead of 20K/v sens. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NS type 3<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 200K/v instead of 20K/v sens. banana probes #3102<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL<br /> | 1976-?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 2<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 3<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | some?<br /> | <br /> | banana probes <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 5<br /> | 1980?<br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 5<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> |<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 6<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | 120mA<br /> | <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 6<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PLK<br /> | -1976?<br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PLK type 7<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PLK type 8<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> :A = higher precision than non-A<br /> :S = very high sensitivity (200K/v)<br /> :M = super high sensitivity (1M/v)<br /> :L = low power ohms<br /> :N = includes range doubler switch<br /> :P = polarity reversal switch ?<br /> :K = protection circuit<br /> :APL = higher precision than A + low power ohms<br /> :PLK = protection circuit<br /> :APLK = both the above<br /> :PL = all the above (1976 and later)<br /> <br /> : Some information sourced from postings by Fred Scoles</div> Fri, 19 Apr 2013 02:19:27 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:Triplett_Meters http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Triplett_Meters <p>Rich:&#32;/* 630 */</p> <hr /> <div>Triplett is a manufacturer of electronic test equipment, most notably the 310 and 630 VOM's.<br /> <br /> ===630===<br /> The 630 is a well known VOM manufactured from 1949? to 2007. Its primary competetion was the Simpson 260.<br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> | Model<br /> | Years<br /> | Mvmt<br /> | PeakV<br /> | PeakA<br /> | LowA<br /> | Mirror<br /> | Doubler<br /> | Notes<br /> |-<br /> | 630<br /> | 1949-?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 60uA<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 3<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 100uA<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | 20K/v. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 4<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 5<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> |<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 5<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> |<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 6<br /> | 2007?<br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> | 300uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | aka model 3030. female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-A<br /> | 1953-?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 60uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-A type 2<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 60uA<br /> | x <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-A type 3<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-APL<br /> | 1970-?<br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-APL type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-APL type 5<br /> | 1980?<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | 30v(413/210) battery <br /> |-<br /> | 630-APLK<br /> | -1976?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000 <br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-L type 2<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-M<br /> | <br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | 1Meg/Volt sens.<br /> |-<br /> | 630-M type 1<br /> | <br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> |<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 1<br /> | <br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 2<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> |<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 3<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 30v(413/210) batt. Some 6000(Red)/1200,others 1200 only. banana probes. #3042?<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NS<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 200K/v instead of 20K/v sens. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NS type 2<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 200K/v instead of 20K/v sens. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NS type 3<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 200K/v instead of 20K/v sens. banana probes #3102<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL<br /> | 1976-?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 2<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 3<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | some?<br /> | <br /> | banana probes <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 5<br /> | 1980?<br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 5<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> |<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 6<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | 120mA<br /> | <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 6<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PLK<br /> | -1976?<br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PLK type 7<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PLK type 8<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> :A = higher precision than non-A<br /> :S = very high sensitivity (200K/v)<br /> :M = super high sensitivity (1M/v)<br /> :L = low power ohms<br /> :N = includes range doubler switch<br /> :P = polarity reversal switch ?<br /> :K = protection circuit<br /> :APL = higher precision than A + low power ohms<br /> :PLK = protection circuit<br /> :APLK = both the above<br /> :PL = all the above (1976 and later)<br /> <br /> : Some information sourced from postings by Fred Scoles</div> Sun, 14 Apr 2013 04:24:04 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:Triplett_Meters http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Triplett_Meters <p>Rich:&#32;/* 630 */</p> <hr /> <div>Triplett is a manufacturer of electronic test equipment, most notably the 310 and 630 VOM's.<br /> <br /> ===630===<br /> The 630 is a well known VOM manufactured from 1949? to 2007. Its primary competetion was the Simpson 260.<br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> | Model<br /> | Years<br /> | Mvmt<br /> | PeakV<br /> | PeakA<br /> | LowA<br /> | Mirror<br /> | Doubler<br /> | Notes<br /> |-<br /> | 630<br /> | 1949-?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 60uA<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 3<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 100uA<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | 20K/v. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 4<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 5<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> |<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 5<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> |<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630 type 6<br /> | 2007?<br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 120mA<br /> | 300uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | aka model 3030. female banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-A<br /> | 1953-?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 60uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-A type 2<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 60uA<br /> | x <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-A type 3<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-APL<br /> | 1970-?<br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-APL type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | x<br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-APL type 5<br /> | 1980?<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | 30v(413/210) battery <br /> |-<br /> | 630-APLK<br /> | -1976?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000 <br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-L type 2<br /> | <br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-M<br /> | <br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | 1Meg/Volt sens.<br /> |-<br /> | 630-M type 1<br /> | <br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> |<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 1<br /> | <br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 2<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> |<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 3<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 30v(413/210) batt. Some 6000(Red)/1200,others 1200 only. banana probes. #3042?<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NA type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NS<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |<br /> |<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 200K/v instead of 20K/v sens. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NS type 2<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 6000/1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 200K/v instead of 20K/v sens. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-NS type 3<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1200<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 12A<br /> | 120uA<br /> | x<br /> | x<br /> | 200K/v instead of 20K/v sens. banana probes #3102<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL<br /> | 1976-?<br /> | Jewl<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 2<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 3<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | some?<br /> | <br /> | banana probes <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 4<br /> | <br /> | Susp<br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 5<br /> | 1980?<br /> | Susp<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 5<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> |<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 6<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 600<br /> | 120mA<br /> | <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PL type 6<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | 630-PLK<br /> | -1976?<br /> | <br /> | 5000/1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> | 30v(413/210) battery. banana probes<br /> |-<br /> | 630-PLK type 8<br /> | <br /> | Taut<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 1000<br /> | align=&quot;right&quot;| 10A<br /> | 100uA <br /> | x<br /> | <br /> | banana probes<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> :A = higher precision than non-A<br /> :S = very high sensitivity (200K/v)<br /> :M = super high sensitivity (1M/v)<br /> :L = low power ohms<br /> :N = includes range doubler switch<br /> :P = polarity reversal switch ?<br /> :K = protection circuit<br /> :APL = higher precision than A + low power ohms<br /> :PLK = protection circuit<br /> :APLK = both the above<br /> :PL = all the above (1976 and later)<br /> <br /> : Some information sourced from postings by Fred Scoles</div> Sun, 07 Apr 2013 04:42:08 GMT Rich http://interceptradio.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:Triplett_Meters